Sketches of the character, manners, and present state of the Highlanders of Scotland: with details of the Military Service of the Highland Regiments

Front matter

SKETCHES OK THE CHARACTER, INSTITUTIONS, AND CUSTOMS OF THE HIGHLANDERS OF SCOTLAND BY MAJOR-GENERAL DAVID STEWART OF GARTH. " 'Tis wonderful That an invisible instinct should frame them To loyalty unlearned ; honour untaught ; Civility not seen from others ; valour That wildly grows in them, but yields a crop As if it had been sowed." Shakespeare. NEW EDITION INVERNESS : A. & W. MACKENZIE. LONDON : SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, & CO. EDINBURGH : JOHN MENZIES St. CO. 1885. PRINTED BY ROBERT CARRUTHERS AND SONS, INVERNESS.

Preface

. In 1 822, Major-General David Stewart of Garth, then a Colonel in the army, first published his invaluable "Sketches of the Character, Manners, and Present State of the Highlands of Scotland, with Details of the Military Service of the Highland Regiments." It had a very extensive sale, two large editions hav ing been exhausted and a third called for in the same year, though it was a high-priced work. In recent years it became so scarce that a copy re alises now from a guinea to twenty-five shillings. It is admitted by all whose opinion is worth listening to on the subject, to be by far the best book in every respect ever written on the Highlands ; and it has in fact become the foundation of nearly all that has since been written on the character and annals of the Highland people. The author has shown a remarkable insight into the future, and has so accur ately predicted the ultimate results of the cold blooded exterminating policy of his time, that these could not be more truly described even at the pre sent day, when all that he so correctly foretold has been realised to the full in the existing social and political state of the Highlands, as well as in

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. the altered relations of proprietors and people. For this and other reasons the portion of the work which the author himself designated " A Sketch of the Moral and Physical Character, and of the Institu tions and Customs of the Inhabitants of the High lands of Scotland" will prove a valuable addition to the literature of the present day, and we have decided to republish that portion of the work at a price which shall place it within the reach of the extended circle who now take a keen and sym pathetic interest in the social position of the High land peasantry. It is intended, by and bye, to follow this up with the publication of the portions ofthe work which deal specially with "The Military Services ofthe Highland Regiments," bringing down the account of these to date. In the Preface to the first edition, General Stewart informs us that his statements are grounded on authentic documents ; on communications from people in whose intelligence and correctness he places implicit confidence ; on his own personal knowledge and observation ; and on the mass of general information, of great credibility and con sistency, preserved among the Highlanders of the last century ; and he assures us of his " honest and perfect conviction ofthe truth of all he has advanced, and of the vital importance attached to the several points touched upon."

Having explained how he was induced to commence the work, and how he suc ceeded in obtaining so much valuable and authen tic information, first, concerning the Forty-Second,.

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. V and afterwards respecting the other Highland Regiments, he says — " In the course of this second investigation into the history of the Highland Regiments I met, in all of them, with much of the same character and principles. The coincidence was indeed striking, and proved that this similarity of conduct and character must have had some common origin, to discover the nature of which appeared an object worthy of inquiry. The closest investigation only confirmed the opinion I had before entertained, that the strongly marked difference between the manners and conduct of the mountain clans, and those of the Lowlanders, and of every other known country, originated in the patriarchal form of government which differed so 'widely from the feudal system of other countries. I therefore attempted to give a sketch of those manners and institutions by which this distinct character was formed ; and having delineated a hasty outline of the past state of the manners and character, the transition to the changes that had been produced and the present condition of the same people was obvious and natural.

Hence I have been led on, step by step, from one attempt to another, till the whole attained its pre sent form." A large edition was cleared off at once, and another was issued within two months of the first. In the Preface to the second edition the author declares how gratified he was " by receiving numerous communications confirming the general correctness of the great multiplicity of facts and circumstances " which he had occasion to detail in

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. VI the first. The second edition, numbering 1300 copies, was cleared off immediately. The demand for the work still "continued in a great measure unabated," and the author made preparations for a third edition, the printing of which was forthwith commenced. In the Preface to the third edition, hitherto the last, issued in 1825, and of which this volume is, so far, a verbatim reprint, he informs us that, "owing to the distance of Garth from the press, and having no daily post, with other causes of interruption, this [the printing] proceeded so slowly that the publication of the present edition has,. in consequence, been delayed for more than a year beyond the time at which, in justice to the work, it ought to have appeared. The delay thus occasioned has, however, been attended with one important advantage ; it has afforded me time and ample opportunities of re-examining my statements,. and of applying corrections, where such appeared necessary.

If I have seen cause to make but few alterations, with hardly a qualification, even in those economical views which are, of course, most liable to be disputed, it is solely because the result of the most minute inquiries, and of personal observation, has strikingly confirmed the general accuracy of my statements and reasonings, and affords me addi tional confidence in the truth and justness of the opinions which I was previously led to maintain. I employed three months of 1823 in this personal in vestigation, and travelled upwards of one thousand

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. VII miles through the Highlands, always communicating with the most intelligent, and those best qualified by their judgment, general intelligence, and local knowledge to give the most correct information, and unprejudiced opinions on the subject of my inquiries. Receiving the fullest confirmation from such men, I have now the more satisfaction in adding, that, while I thus exerted myself to render the present edition as correct as possible, the alterations are so few and unimportant as not to diminish in any degree, the value and general accuracy of the former editions." Indeed, almost the entire change consists of material and very valuable additions to the text, notes, and appendices. In "Notes Explanatory of the Map ofthe Clans," issued with the original work, the author thinks it proper to state that the divisions in which the clans were arranged were " not intended to indicate that the chiefs, or heads of the principal branches of all the clans, were the sole proprietors of the lands classed under their respective names.

In several instances, they were only occupiers and tenants at will of the lands on which their forefathers had lived for ages. But while the clansmen obeyed and fol lowed the chiefs of their family and kindred, the superiors and proprietors of their lands seldom held any authority or feudal control, except in cases where the superior and his people entertained similar political views and sentiments." In a foot-note to this, our author adds that, "nothing can be more erroneous than an opinion, often repeated, and

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. therefore sometimes believed, that whatever side the feudal superior took in any great political question or contest, he was invariably followed by his sub servient adherents. Many instances to the contrary have been stated, and I could produce many more, highly creditable to the spirit of independence which long distinguished the clansmen." The lands " occupied by different clans and tribes, either as proprietors or tenants are generally called their ' country' or territory ; Brae Lochaber, for example. which was occupied for nearly five hundred years by the Macdonalds of Keppoch, and their numerous descendants, is called 'Keppoch's country,' although the fee-simple of the property had been vested for the greater part of the period in the families of Gordon and Mackintosh. The Dukes of Gordon and Argyll were feudal superiors of the whole of the Camerons' country, the former nobleman being also proprietor of part of the lands, as also of a con siderable portion of Badenoch, the ' country of the Macphersons,' many of whom are his Grace's tenants.

Indeed, this clan is so numerous in that extensive district that, except in the case of an accidental emigration from the Duke's Lowland estates, there is not a tenant of the name of Gordon throughout its whole extent. The Duke of Atholl possesses a very extensive property in Athole ; but the district has, for centuries, been called the coun try of the Stewarts, Robertsons, Fergusons, etc. With the exception of the Duke, there is not in the whole district a proprietor or occupier of land of

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. IX tlie name of Murray; but many descendants, whose forefathers sprung from the Atholl family prior to the change of their name from Stewart to Murray, are still resident in the glens of Athole. Part of two large parishes on the estate of Sutherland, including Strathnaver, from which the Earldom of Sutherland derives its secondary title, is situated in Lord Reay's country, or, as it is called in Gaelic, the territory of the Mackays The ranks of the Sutherland Regi ment of 1793 bore evidence to the propriety of this appellation, as one hundred and Jour William Mac kays, almost all of them from Strathnaver, were in the corps, and seventeen in one company, Captain Sackville Sutherland's. The small clans or tribes of Maclarens of Balquhidder in Perthshire, Macintyres of Argyle, Macraes of Ross, Gunns of Sutherland, and several others, were not proprietors ; but from the earliest history of the clans, till a very recent period, occupied their lands in undisturbed succes sion."

Where are they now ? Professor Blackie has repeatedly described General Stewart's book as the best existing work — whose " excellence shines forth on every page " — on the Scottish Highlands and Highlanders ; and that true and patriotic Sutherland Highlander, Mr John Mackay, C.E., Hereford, writing to a northern newspaper a few years ago, refers to the work in the following terms : — " Without any doubt, Stewart's Sketches is one of the best, if not the very best book, published on the subject It has formed the groundwork for all the subsequent pub-

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. X lications on the Highlands and Highland Clans. It ought to be in the hands of every Highland lad ; on the bookshelf of every Highland home, next to the Bible. It is invaluable to every one who de sires to know all about the heroic past of the Highland people. The author, born amongst the hills of Perthshire, was reared amidst the people he loved so well, respected so much, before they became contaminated with Saxon ideas and manners, before chiefs divorced themselves from their retainers, before sheep became the golden image to be worshipped, before the lust for gold took the place of love for the people, and respect and affection for the gallant defenders of their country in danger ; when willing hands and brave hearts, like himself, were pouring out, year after year, from every hill and vale to sustain the hon our of the country, to preserve its freedom, to con quer or die for it in every battlefield from Fontenoy to Waterloo.

This was the heroic era of the High lands and Highlanders. Well did they deserve of their country and chiefs. General Stewart sets all this forth in his Sketches, in his own kindly language. Fortunate it was for the Highlanders to find in their midst such a historian of their prowess and heroic conduct as the gallant General, whose pen was as ready to do them justice, and to record their valour, as his sword was keen to lead them into battle. Fortunate, too, it was to find such a matchless defender of their character as Sir Walter Scott. It was the incomparable heroism of the

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. XI Highland soldier, and the majestic scenery of his country, that awakened the genius of Scott Sir Walter Scott and General Stewart have done to the Highlanders the justice denied them by others. The magic wand of the one, and the facile pen and intimate knowledge of the other, painted their character and heroism in letters of gold, inefface able, imperishable. ' Waverley,' ' The Lady of the Lake,' ' The Lord of the Isles,' are well known productions of Sir Walter Scott. Stewart's Sketches of the Highlands and Highland Regiments are worthy to rank beside them : even more worthy of being read ; for facts are stronger than fiction. Stewart Sketches ought to be found in every library, in the hall or in the cottage. Every Highland lad should have the book in his hands as soon as he is able to read."

It is, in fact, impossible for any one to read it without being and feeling a better man or woman after the performance. The Appen dix deserves special attention from the reader who desires to be fully informed on the subject of the book, as it is a perfect mine of invaluable facts and sound reasoning — such as cannot be found together anywhere else that we know of. A. M. Inverness, 20th April 1885. CONTENTS.

Part I

Seciio*. Pack. I. — Geographical Situation and Extent of the Highlands — Celtic Kingdom I II. — System of Clanship — Patriarchal sway of the Chiefs — Consequences of this System — Effects of the want of Laws, and of constant Agitation and Alarms on the Character of the People 25 III. — Devoted Obedience of the Clans — Spirit of Independence — Fidelity 57 IV. — Arms — Warlike Array ... 84 V.— Highland Garb 91 VI. — Bards — Pipers — Music ... ... ... ... 99 VII. — General Means of Subsistence — Checks on Population — Salutary Influence of Custom in the Absence of Laws ... ... ... ... 106 VIII. — Love of Country, Early Associations— Traditional Tales and Poetry ... ... ... 112 IX. — Disinterested, but Mistaken Loyalty and Fidelity — Conduct in 1745 ... ... ... 119 X.- — Abolition of Hereditary Jurisdictions — Disarming Act — Suppression of the Highland Garb ... 139

Part II

I. — Influence of Political and Economical Arrangements — Change in the Character of the Clans — Introduction of Fanaticism in Religion ... 147 II. — Causes and Consequences of these Changes- State when placed on Small Lots of Land — Poverty followed by Demoralisation ... CONTENTS. XIV Sectios. Page. III.— Beneficial Results of Judicious Arrangements, and of allowing time to acquire a Knowledge of Agricultural Improvements — Emigration — Agricultural Pursuits promote Independence and prevent Pauperism 210 IV.— Illicit Distillation — Consequences of Reducing the Highlanders from the Condition of Small Tenantry — Policy of Retaining an Agricultural Population ... ... 236 V. — Military Character — National Corps advantageous, especially in the Case of the Highlanders — Character of Officers fitted to command a Highland Corps 287

Appendix

. A. Parallel Roads ... 297 B. Ancient League between France and Scotland . . . 299 C. Territories, Military Force, and Patronymic Designations of the Chiefs ... ... ... ... ... 301 D. War Cries, Signals, and Distinguishing Marks of the Clans 308 E. Feuds — Garth and Macivor 310 F. Characteristic Anecdotes ... 312 G. Sketch of the Life and Character of Rob Roy ... 318 H. John Dubh Cameron, or Sergeant Mor ... 328 I. Highland Armour ... ... ... -.,0 K. Bows and Arrows ... 731 L. Highland Garb ... ... ... ,,, M. Highland Weddings ... ,,5 N. Highland Music ... ,,g O. Highland Game ... .... „,j P. Honourable Manner of Contracting Bargains ... 342 Q. Patronymics ... , . R. Spelling of the Name of Stewart 3.5 S. State of Education in the Highlands in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries 3.- CONTENTS.

XV Paqe. T. Second-Sight 352 * Prejudiced Views of Highland Character ... ... 355 U. Lord President Forbes ... ... ... ... 357 V. Supposed Ferocity of the Highlanders 360 W. Disinterested Attachment, and Liberal Pecuniary Support Afforded to Chiefs and Landlords when in Distress ... ... 363 X. Equality of Property, and Operation of the New Systems 365 Y. Report of Highland Convicts 366 Z. Ancient Cultivation ... ... ... ... ... 369 AA. Respectability and Independence of Small Farmers in Comparison with Day Labourers ... ... 372 BB. Comparative Produce from Cultivation, and from Land in the State of Nature 374 CC. Poor and Poor's Fund 376 DD. Letting Lands by Auction, Advertisements, or Private Offers 377 EE. Influence of Public Opinion 380 FF. Religious Education — Gaelic Schools 381 GG. The Best Soldiers Destroyed by inattention to their Feelings and Dispositions 385 Index SKETCHES OF THE HIGHLANDERS.

PART I

.

Section I

Geographical Situation and Extent of the Highlands of Scotland — Jnhabitants — Character— Antiquities. The tract of country known by the name of the High lands of Scotland, constitutes the northern portion of Great Britain. Its maritime outline is bold, rocky, and in many places deeply indented by bays and arms of the sea. The northern and western coasts are fringed with groups or clusters of islands, while the eastern and southern boundaries are distinguished from that of Scot land denominated the Lowlands, by the strong and peculiar features impressed on them by the hand of Nature. A range of mountains known in Roman history by the name of Mons Grampius, at a later period called Gransbane,* and now the Grampians, constitutes the line of demarca tion between these two distinct parts of the kingdom. * Both derived from the Gaelic garu-bein, the rugged mountains.

E GRAMPIANS. 2 Within this range, as every classical reader knows, is the scene of that noble stand for liberty and independence, made by the Caledonians against the invasion of the Romans. The physical structure of the Grampian boundary is as remarkable as the general direction is striking, regular, and continuous. It forms, as it were, a lofty and shattered rampart, commencing north of the river Don, in the county of Aberdeen — extending across the kingdom in a diagonal direction, till it terminates in the south-west, at Ardmore, in the county of Dumbarton — and present ing to the Lowlands throughout, a front, bold, rocky, and precipitous. The Grampian range consists of rocks of primitive formation. The front towards the south and east presents, in many places, a species of breccia. In the centre, and following the line of the range, is a remarkable bed of valuable limestone,* with many strata of marbles and slate.

In the districts of Fortingall, Glen lyon, and Strathfillan, are found quantities of lead and silver ore; and over the whole extent are numerous * This great bed of limestone is first seen in Aberdeenshire. It sometimes rises to the surface for many miles, then sinks and dis appears, following, as it were, the undulated and irregular direction of the surface of the mountainous country through which it passes. It runs from Brae-Mar to Athole, through the great forest, crossing the river Garry at Blair Castle, and the Tummel near the foot of Shichallain ; and, taking a south-westerly direction, by Garth, Fort ingall, and Breadalbane, passes through the centre of Loch-Tay, and the west end of Loch-Earn, and thence stretches through Monteith and Dumbartonshire, till it is lost in the Atlantic, north of the Clyde. s t This marble takes a fine polish.

The prevailing colours are blue, green, and brown, intermixed with streaks of pure white. In Glentilt, within the forest of Athole, a quarry of green marble has lately been opened, and wrought to advantage. STRATHS AND PASSES. 3 detached masses of red and blue granite, garnets, ame thysts, rock crystals, and pebbles of great variety and brilliancy. The continuation of this great chain is broken by straths and glens, formed originally by the rivers and torrents to which they now afford a passage. The principal straths are on the rivers Leven, Earn, Dee, and Don. But besides these great straths, there are many other glens and valleys, the lower entrances of which are so rugged and contracted, as to have been almost impassable till opened by art. These are known by the name of Passes, and are situated both on the verge of the outward line, and in the interior of the range.

The most remarkable are Bealmacha upon Loch-Lomond, Aberfoyle and Leny in Monteith, the Pass of Glenalmond above Crieff, the entrance into Athole near Dunkeld, and those formed by the rivers Ardle, Islay, and South and North Esk. By the excellent roads now constructed along their sides, these passes, formerly so difficult to penetrate, furnish the easiest entrance for horses, and the only one for carriages. Immediately within the external boundary, are also many strong and defensible passes, such as Killicrankie, and the entrance into Glenlyon, Glenlochy, Glenogle, etc.* * An apology may be necessary for stating facts so generally known. But these boundaries formed one of the principal causes which preserved the Highlanders a distinct race from the inhabitants of the plains. For seven centuries, Birnam Hill, and the rocks westward of Dungarth Hill, at the entrance into Athole, formed the boundary between the Lowlands and Highlands, and between the Saxon and Gaelic languages.

On the south and east of these boundaries, breeches are worn, and the Scotch Lowland dialect spoken, with as broad an accent as in Mid-Lothian. On the north and west are found the Gaelic, the kilt, and the plaid, with all the peculiarities of the Highland character. The Gaelic is the dialect GENERAL ASPECT. 4 On the line of the Grampians, are many insulated mountains of considerable altitude, such as Benlomond, Benlawers, Shichallain, etc. The views ofthe Highlands obtained on a clear day from the summits of these moun tains, are peculiarly imposing and magnificent, t But when covered with clouds, or skirted with mists, their sum mits are often scarcely distinguishable from the vapours which envelope them ; while their bleak and barren aspect, and the deep rocky channels with which they are furrowed, testify to the violence of the tempests which have swept over them.

Towards their pointed summits there is little vegetative mould ; but lower down we meet with a thin covering of stunted heath, inhabited only by birds of prey, and by the white hare and ptarmigan. Still farther down is the region of the mountain deer and muirfowl, producing more luxuriant heath, intermixed with nourishing pasture, and supporting numerous flocks of sheep. Towards the base are many romantic glens, watered by mountain streams, or diversified by winding lakes, and in some places beautifully wooded, and capable of producing various kinds of grain. Many of these glens contain a crowded population, and an unexpected number of flocks and herds, the principal source of the riches of the country. The space which the Gaelic population occupied with in the mountains, includes the counties of Sutherland, in common use among the people on the Highland side of the boundary.

This applies to the whole range of the Grampians : for example, at General Campbell's gate, at Monzie, nothing but Scotch is spoken, while at less than a mile distant, on the hill to the north ward, we meet with the Gaelic. + With a good glass Arthur's Seat and the higher grounds in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh are clearly distinguishable. GENERAL ASPECT. 5 Caithness, Ross, Inverness, Cromarty, Nairn, Argyle, Bute, the Hebrides, and part of the counties of Moray, Banff, Stirling, Perth, Dumbarton, Aberdeen, and Angus. It may be defined by a line drawn from the western open ing of the Pentland Frith, sweeping round St Kilda, so as to include the whole cluster of islands to the east and south, as far as Arran ; then stretching to the Mull of Kintyre, re-entering the main land at Ardmore in Dumbartonshire, following the southern verge of the Grampians to Aber deenshire, cutting off the Lowland districts in that country, and in Banff and Elgin, and ending on the north-east point of Caithness.* Throughout its whole extent this country displays nearly the same features. *The names of places in this county denote a considerable mixture of Gothic and Danish.

The same observation applies to the Isle of Skye, although in that island the language and manners of the people are as purely Celtic as any now in existence. In Caithness, however, two-thirds of the inhabitants speak the dialect of the Lowland Scots. Part of that country bordering on the sea coast is an uninterrupted flat of great extent. In that portion the Lowland garb is worn, and Scotch spoken ; but at the commence ment of the high and mountainous country, we meet with the Gaelic j and formerly the Highland dress was worn. It would therefore appear, that this low and accessible district must, at an early period have been invaded and occupied by strangers, whose progress into the interior was arrested when the natural conformation of the country enabled the original inhabitants to defend them selves, and prevent farther intrusion ; otherwise it is not easy to account for the singular circumstances of an insulated district, situated 150 miles within the boundary of the Gaelic language, be ing inhabited by people differing in dress, habits, and dialect, from all around them.

A small district in the county of Cromarty, of five miles in length, and less than half a mile in breadth, presents the same singularity, the inhabitants having for ages spoken a language of which few or none of those around them understand a sentence. It is the same CHARACTER. The means of subsistence are necessarily limited to the produce of mountain pasture, and to the grain that can be raised in a precarious climate ; and that, too, only on detached patches of land along the banks of rivers, in the glens and plains, or on the sea coast. Though the lakes and rivers in the interior, and the arms of the sea, with which the coast is indented, abound with fish, the distribution of this benefit among the general population is necessarily limited by the difficulties peculiar to so mountainous a region.

The same cause precludes much intercourse with the Lowlands, and the importation of commodities so bulky as provisions. The inland parts of the country must therefore, in a great degree, depend on their own resources ; and hence the number of inhabitants must be small in proportion to the area of territory. From these circumstances, as well as from the seques tered situation in which the inhabitants were placed, a peculiar character and distinctive manners naturally originated. The ideas and employment, which their seclusion from the world rendered habitual, — the familiar con templation of the most sublime physical objects, — the habit of concentrating their affections within the precincts of their own glens, or the limited circle of their own kins men, — and the necessity of union and self-dependence -in all difficulties and dangers, combined to form a peculiar and original character.

A certain romantic sentiment, the offspring of deep and cherished feeling, — strong attachment to their country and kindred, — and a consequent disdain of submission to strangers, formed to this day, so remarkably has the distinction of languages been preserved, by people who, from close neighbourhood, must hold frequent intercourse. ORIGIN. 7 the character of independence ; while an habitual con tempt of dangers was nourished by their solitary musings, of which the honour of their clan, and a long descent from brave and warlike ancestors, formed the frequent theme. Thus, their exercises, their amusements, their modes of subsistence, their motives of action, their pre judices, and their superstitions, became characteristic, permanent, and peculiar. Promptitude in decision, fertility in resource, ardour in friendship, and a generous enthusiasm, were qualities which naturally resulted from such a situation, such modes of life, and such habits .of thought.

Feeling themselves, in a manner, separated by Nature from the rest of mankind, and distinguished by their language, manners, and dress, they considered themselves the original possessors of the country, and regarded the Saxons of the Lowlands as strangers and intruders. Whether the progenitors of this singular race of people were the aborigines of the Highlands of Scotland, is a question which is now impossible to decide. But the earliest authentic records which history affords of the transactions of different tribes and nations, contain de scriptions of the character, and accounts of the migrations of the Celts. Among this widely diffused race, though there were considerable varieties, arising from climate and situation, still in the case of all to whom the denom ination was extended, there might be traced indelible marks of affinity, as well as a striking difference from other tribes.

Cæsar, in his Commentaries, informs us, that, in his time, they formed the most considerable por tion of the population of Gaul. Indeed, many circum stances render it probable, that the Celtic tribes emigrated originally from the eastern provinces of Europe, retaining, DRUIDS. in their progress westward, their religion, manners, and language. Traces of this migration may be discovered in the names of Albania, Iberia, Dalmatia, Caramania,* etc., as well as in many appellations which we still recog nise in the western parts of Europe, all of which were once, and some still are, in part, inhabited by Celts. The most luminous and distinct account ofthe government, manners, and institutions of this remarkable people, as they existed in Gaul, as well as the most authentic his tory of some of their enterprises and transactions, is to be found in Cæsar's Commentaries on the Gallic War.