The Last Journals of David Livingstone in Central Africa, from 1865 to his death. Continued by a narrative of his last moments and sufferings, obtained from his faithful servants Chuma and Susi, by H. Waller. With portrait, maps, and illustrations

Front matter

THE LAST JOURNALS OF DAVID LIVINGSTONE, IN CENTRAL AFRICA, FROM 1865 TO HIS DEATH. CONTINUED BY A NARRATIVE OP HIS LAST MOMENTS AND SUFFERINGS, OBTAINED FROM HIS FAITHFUL SERVANTS CHUMA AND SUSI, Br HORACE WALLER, F.R.G.S., RECTOR OF TWYWELL, NORTHAJUTO**. IN TWO VOLUMES.— Vol. II. WITH PORTRAIT, MAPS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON: JOHN MUEEAY, ALBEMAELE STEEET. 1874. 27 « right of Translation i^resa-ved. ; t LONDON I PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, SrAMFOKD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. Frontispiece EVENING. ILALA. '29 APRIL, 1873. VOL. I'Anr CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Bad beginning of the new year. Dangerous illness. Kindness of Arabs. Complete helplessness. Arrive at Tanganyika. The Doctor is conveyed in canoes. Kasanga Islet. Cochin-China fowls. Reaches Ujiji. Receives some stores. Plundering hands. Slow recovery. Writes despatches. Refusal of Arabs to take letters. Thani bin Suellim. A den of slavers. Puzzling current in Lake Tanganyika. Letters sent off at last. Contemplates visiting the Manyuema. Arab depredations. Starts for new explorations in Manyuema, 12th July, 1869. Voyage on the Lake. Kabogo East. Crosses Tanganyika. Evil effects of last illness. Elephant hunter's superstition. Dugumbe. The Lualaba reaches the Manyuema. Sons of Moenekuss. Sokos first heard of. Manyuema customs. Illness. .. .. .. .. 1

Chapter II

Prepares to explore River Lualaba. Beauty of the Manyuema country. Irritation at conduct of Arabs. Dugumbe's ravages. Hordes of traders arrive. Severe fever. Elephant trap. Sickness in camp. A good Samaritan. Reaches Mamohela and is prostrated. Beneficial effects of Nyumbo plant. Long illness. An elephant of three tusks. All men desert except Susi, Chuma, and Gardner. Starts with these to Lualaba. Arab assassinated by outraged Manyuema. Returns baffled to Mamohela. Long and dreadful suffering from ulcerated feet. Questionable cannibalism. Hears of four river sources close together. Resume of discoveries. Contemporary explorers. The soko. Description of its habits. Dr. Livingstone feels himself failing. Intrigues of deserters .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 32 a CONTENTS. IV

Chapter III. Tage

Footsteps of Moses. Geology of Manyuema land. " A drop of comfort." Continued sufferings. A stationary explorer. Consequences of trusting to theory. Nomenclature of Rivers and Lakes. Plunder and murder is Ujijian trading. Comes out of hut for first time after eighty days' illness. Arab cure for ulcerated sores. Rumour of letters. The loss of medicines a <*reat trial now. The broken-hearted chief. Return of Arab ivory traders. Future plans. Thankfulness for Mr. Edward Young's Search Expedition. The Hornbilled Phœnix. Tedious delays". The bargain for the boy. Sends letters to Zanzibar. Exasperation of Manyuema against Arabs. The " Sassassa bird." The disease " Safura." t>9

Chapter IV

Degraded state of the Manyuema. Want of writing materials. Lion's "fat a specific against tsetse. The Neggeri. Jottings about Merere. Various sizes of tusks. An epidemic. The strangest disease of all! The New Year. Detention at Bambarre\ Goitre. News of the cholera. Arrival of coast caravan. The parrot's-feather challenge. Murder of James. Men arrive as servants. They refuse to go north. Part at last with malcontents. Receives letters from Dr. Kirk and the Sultan. Doubts as to the Congo or Nile. Katomba presents a young soko. Forest scenery. Discrimination of the Manyuema. They " want to eat a white one." Horrible bloodshed by Ujiji traders. Heartsore and sick of blood. Approach Nyangwe. Reaches the Lualaba . . . . 85

Chapter V

The Chitoka or market gathering. The broken watch. Improvises ink. Builds a new house at Nyafigwe on the bank of the Lualaba. Marketing. 'Cannibalism. Lake Kamalondo. Dreadful effect of slaving. News of country across the Lualaba. Tiresome frustration. The Bakuss. Feeble health. Busy scene at market. Unable to procure canoes. Disaster to Arab canoes. Rapids in Lualaba. Project for visiting Lake Lincoln and the Lomame\ Offers large reward for canoes and men. The slave's mistress. Alarm of natives at market. Fiendish slaughter of women by Arabs. Heartrending scene. Death on land and in the river. Tagamoio's assassinations. Continued slaughter across the river. Livingstone becomes desponding .. .. CONTENTS. V

Chapter VI. Tage

Leaves for Ujiji. Dangerous journey through forest. The Manyuema understand Livingstone's kindness. Zanzibar slaves. Kasongo's. Stalactite caves. Consequences of eating parrots. 111. Attacked in the forest. Providential deliverance. Another extraordinary escape. Taken for Mohamad Bogharib. Running the gauntlet for five hours. Loss of property. Reaches place of safety. 111. Mamohela. To the Luamo. Severe disappointment. Recovers. Severe marching. Reaches Ujiji. Despondency. Opportune arrival of Mr. Stanley. Joy and thankfulness of the old traveller. Determines to examine north end of Lake Tanganyika. They start. Reach the Lusize. No outlet. " Theoretical discovery " of the real outlet. Mr. Stanley ill. Returns to Ujiji. Leaves stores there. Departure for Unyanycnibe with Mr. Stanley. Abundance of game. Attacked by bees. Serious illness of Mr. Stanley. Thankfulness at reaching L'nyanyembe .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 141

Chapter VII

Determines to continue his work. Proposed route. Refits. Robberies discovered. Mr. Stanley leaves. Parting messages. Mteza's people arrive. Ancient Geography. Tabora. Description of the country. The Banyamwezi. A Baganda bargain. The population of Unyamyembe. The Mirambo war. Thoughts on Sir Samuel Baker's policy. The cat and the snake. Firm faith. Feathered neighbours. Mistaken notion concerning mothers. Prospects for missionaries. Halima. News of other travellers. Chuma is married .. .. .. .. .. 169

Chapter VIII

Letters arrive at last. Sore intelligence. Death of an old friend. Observations on the climate. Arab caution. Dearth of Missionary enterprise. The slave trade and its horrors. Progressive barbarism. Carping benevolence. Geology of Southern Africa. The fountain sources. African elephants. A venerable piece of artillery. Livingstone on Materialism. Bin Nassib. The Baganda leave at last. Enlists a new follower .. .. .. 204

Chapter IX

Short years in Buganda. Boys' playthings in Africa. Reflections. Arrival of the men. Fervent thankfulness. An end of the weary CONTENTS. VI PAGE waiting. Jacob Wainwright takes service under the Doctor. Preparations for the journey. Flagging and illness. Great heat. Approaches Lake Tanganyika. The borders of Fipa. Lepido sirens and Vultures. Capes and islands of Lake Tanganyika. High mountains. Large Bay 220 CHAPTER, X. False guides. Very difficult travelling. Donkey dies of tsetse bites. The Kasonso family. A hospitable chief. The River Lofu. The nutmeg tree. Famine. 111. Arrives at Chama's town. A difficulty. An immense snake. Account of Casembe's death. The flowers of the Babisa country. Reaches the River Lopoposi. Arrives at Chitunkue's. Terrible marching. The Doctor is borne through the flooded country .. .. .. .. .. 244

Chapter XI

Entangled amongst the marshes of Bangweolo. Great privations. Obliged to return to Chitunkue's. At the chief's mercy. Agreeably surprised with the chief. Start once more. Very difficult march. Bobbery exposed. Fresh attack of illness. Sends scouts out to find villages. Message to Chirubwe. An ant raid. Awaits news from Matipa. Distressing perplexity. The Bougas of Bangweolo. Constant rain above and flood below. 111. Susi and Chuma sent as envoys to Matipa. Reach Bangweolo. Arrive at Matipa's islet. Matipa's town. The donkey suffers in transit. Tries to go on to Kabinga's. Dr. Livingstone makes a demonstration. Solution of the transport difficulty. Susi and detachment sent to Kabinga's. Extraordinary extent of flood. Reaches Kabinga's. An upset. Crosses the Chambeze. The River Muanakazi. They separate into companies by land and water.

A disconsolate lion. Singular caterpillars. Observations on fish. Coasting along the southern flood of Lake Bangweolo. Dangerous state of Dr. Livingstone .. 272

Chapter XII

Dr. Livingstone rapidly sinking. Last entries in his diary. Susi and Chuma's additional details. Great agony in his last illness. Carried across rivers and through flood. Inquiries for the Hill of the Four Rivers. Kalunganjovu's kindness. Crosses the Molilamo into the district of llala in great pain. Arrives at Chitambo's village. Chitambo comes to visit the dying traveller. The last night. Livingstone expires in the act of praying. The account CONTENTS. VII TACK of what the men saw. Remarks on his death. Council of the men. Leaders selected. The chief discovers that his guest is dead. Noble conduct of Chitambo. A separate village built by the men wherein to prepare the body for transport. The preparation of the corpse. Honour shown by the natives to Dr. Livingstone. Additional remarks on the cause of death. Interment of the heart at Chitambo's in llala of the Wabisa. An inscription and memorial sign-posts left to denote spot .. .. 299

Chapter XIII

They begin the homeward march from Ilala. Illness of all the men. Deaths. Muanamazungu. The Luapula. The donkey killed by a lion. A disaster at N'kossu's. Native surgery. Approach Chawende's town. Inhospitable reception. An encounter. They take the town. Leave Chawende's. Reach Chiwaie's. Strike the old road. Wire drawing. Arrive at Kumbakumba's. John Wainwright disappears. Unsuccessful search. Reach Tanganyika. Leave the Lake. Cross the Lambalamfipa range. Immense herds of game. News of East-Coast Search Expedition. Confirmation of news. They reach Baula. Avant-couriers sent forwards to Unyanyembe. Chuma meets Lieut. Cameron. Start for the coast. Sad death of Dr. Dillon. Clever precautions. The body is effectually concealed. Girl killed by a snake. Arrival on the coast. Concluding remarks. .. .. .. ..

ILLUSTRATIONS. ,-fuII-pHge Illustrations. 1. Evening. Ilala. 29th April, 1873 .. ... Frontispiece. 2. Uguha Head-dresses Page 20 3. Chuma and Susi. (From a Photograph by Maull & Co.) „ 45 4. Manyuema Hunters killing Sokos .. .. •■ „ 52 5. Portrait of a Young Soko .. .. .. .. „ 55 6. A DANGEROUS PitIZE .. .. .. .. •• » 95 7. Facsimile of a Portion of Dr. Livingstone's Journal „ 114 8. The Massacre of the Manyuema Women at Nyangwe „ 133 9. The Manyuema Ambush .. .. .. .. „ 14G 10. "The Main Stream came up to Stjsi's Mouth" .. „ 268 11. The Last Miles of Dr. Livingstone's Travels .. „ 295 12. Fish Eagle on Hippopotamus Trap .. .. .. „ 296 13. The Last Entry in Dr. Livingstone's Journals .. „ 299 14. Temporary Village in w"Hicn Dr. Livingstone's Pody was prepared .. .. .. .. .. .. „ 315 Smaller Illustrations. 1.

Lines of Green Scum on Lake Tanganyika.. .. „ 13 2. Mode of Catching Ants .. .. .. .. .. „ 30 3. Dr. Livingstone's Mosquito Curtain .. .. .. ,. 284 4. Matipa and his Wife .. .. .. .. .. „ 286 5. An old Servant destroyed .. .. .. .. „ 323 6. Kawendi; Surgery.. .. .. .. .. ., ,, 325 Map of Conjectural Geography of Central Africa, , from Dr. Livingstone's Notes at end. DE. LIVINGSTONE'S LAST JOURNALS.