The Zambesi and its triburaries

Front matter

Duqufjne fllniumityj

BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF THE GREAT CATARACTS OF THE ZAMBESI (CALLED MOSIOATUNTA, OR!

f^TORIA FALLS), AND OF THE ZIGZAG CHASM BELOW THE FALLS THROUGH WHICH THE RIVER ESCAPES.

Preface

It has been my object in this work to give as clear an account as I was able of tracts of country previously unexplored, with their river systems, natural productions, and capabilities ; and to bring before my countrymen, and all others interested in the cause of humanity, the misery entailed by the slave-trade in its inland phases— a subject on which I and my companions are the first who have had any opportunities of forming a judgment. The eight years spent in Africa since my last work was published have not, I fear, improved my power of writing English ; but I hope that whatever my descriptions want in clearness or literary skill may in a measure be compensated by the novelty of the scenes described, and the additional information afforded on that curse of Africa, and that shame, even now, in the nineteenth century, of a European nation — the slave-trade.

I took the " Lady Nyassa" to Bombay for the express purpose of selling her, and might, without any difficulty, have done so ; but with the thought of parting with her arose, more strongly than ever, the feeling of disinclination to abandon the East Coast of Africa to the Portuguese and slave-trading, and I determined to run home and consult my friends before I allowed the little vessel to pass from my hands. After, therefore, having put two Ajawa lads to school under the eminent missionary, the Eev. Dr. Wilson, and having provi PREFACE.

vided satisfactorily for the native crew, I started homeward with the three white sailors, and reached London July 20th, 1864. Mr. and Mrs. Webb, my much-loved friends, wrote to Bombay inviting me, in the event of my coming to England, to make Newstead Abbey my head-quarters, and on my arrival renewed their invitation ; and though, when I accepted it, I had no intention of remaining so long with my kindhearted, generous friends, I staid with them until April, 1865, and under their roof transcribed from my own and my brother's journal the whole of this present book. It is with heartfelt gratitude I would record their unwearied kindness. My acquaintance with Mr. Webb began in Africa, where he was a daring and successful hunter, and his continued friendship is most valuable, because he has seen missionary work, and he would not accord his respect and esteem to me had he not believed that I, and my brethren also, were to be looked on as honest men earnestly trying to do our duty.

The government have supported the proposal of the Eoyal Geographical Society made by my friend Sir Roderick Murchison, and have united with that body to aid me in^ another attempt to open Africa to civilizing influences, and a valued private friend has given a thousand pounds for the same object. I propose to go inland, north of the territory which the Portuguese in Europe claim, and endeavor to commence that system on the East which has been so eminently successful on the West Coast — a system combining the repressive efforts of H. M. cruisers with lawful trade and Christian Missions, the moral and material results of which have been so gratifying. I hope to ascend the Rovuma, or some other river north of Cape Delgado, and, in addition to my other work, shall strive, by passing along the northern end of Lake Nyassa, and round the southern end of Lake Tanganyika, to as-

POSTSCRIPT TO PREFACE. vii

certain the watershed of that part of Africa. In so doing, I have no wish to unsettle what with so much toil and danger was accomplished by Speke and Grant, but rather to confirm their illustrious discoveries.

I have to acknowledge the obliging readiness of Lord Russell in lending me the drawings taken by the artist who was in the first instance attached to the Expedition. These sketches, with photographs by Charles Livingstone and Dr. Kirk, have materially assisted in the illustrations. I would also very sincerely thank my friends Professor Owen and Mr. Oswell for many valuable hints and other aid in the preparation of this volume.

Newstead Abbey, April 16, 1865.

f POSTSCRIPT TO PREFACE.

The credit which I was fain to award to the Lisbon statesmen for a sincere desire to put an end to the slave-trade is, I regret to find, totally undeserved. They have employed one Mons. Lacerda to try to extinguish the facts adduced by me before the meeting of the " British Association for'the Advancement of Science" at Bath by a series of papers in the Portuguese Official Journal, and their Minister for Foreign Affairs has since devoted some of the funds of his government to the translation and circulation of Mons. Lacerda's articles in the form of an English tract. Nothing is more conspicuous in this official document than the extreme ignorance displayed of the geography of the country of which they pretend that they possess not only the knowledge, but also the dominion. A vague rumor, cited by some old author, about two marshes below Murchison's Cataracts, is considered conviii POSTSCRIPT TO PREFACE.

elusive evidence that the ancient inhabitants of Senna, a village on the Zambesi, found no difficulty in navigating the Shire to Lake Nyassa up what modern travelers find to be an ascent of 1200 feet in 35 miles of latitude. A broad, shallow lake, with a strong current, which Senhor Candido declared he had visited N.W. of Tette, is assumed to be the narrow-, deep Lake Nyassa, without current, and about N.N.E. of the same point. Great offense is also taken because the discovery of the main sources of the Nile has been ascribed to Speke and Grant instead of to Ptolemy and F. Lobo.

But the main object of the Portuguese government is not geographical. It is to bolster up that pretense to power which has been the only obstacle to the establishment of lawful commerce and friendly relations with the native inhabitants of Eastern Africa. The following work contains abundant confirmation of all that was advanced by me at the Bath meeting of the British Association ; and I may here add that it is this unwarranted assumption of power over 1860 miles of coast — from English Eiver to. Cape Delgado, where the Portuguese have, in fact, little real authority — which perpetuates the barbarism of the inhabitants. The Portuguese interdict' all foreign commerce except at a very few points where they have established custom-houses, and even at these, by an exaggerated and obstructive tariff and differential duties, they completely shut out the natives from any trade except that in slaves.

Looking from south to north, let us glance at the enormous sea-board which the Portuguese in Europe endeavor to make us believe belongs to them. Delagoa Bay has a small fort called Lorenzo Marques, but nothing beyond the walls. At Inhambane they hold a small strip of land by sufferance of the natives. Sofala is in ruins, and from Quillimane north-

POSTSCRIPT TO PREFACE. jx

ward for 690 miles they have only one small stockade, protected by an armed launch in the mouth of the Eiver Angoza to prevent foreign vessels from trading there. Then at Mozambique they have the little island on which the fort stands, and a strip about three miles long on the main land, on which they have a few farms, which are protected from hostility only by paying the natives an annual tribute, which they call " having the blacks in their pay." The settlement has long been declining in trade and importance. It is garrisoned by a few hundred sickly soldiers shut up in the fort, and even with a small coral island near can hardly be called secure. On the island of Oibo, or Iboe, an immense number of slaves are collected, but there is little trade of any kind. At Pomba Bay a small fort was made, but it is very doubtful whether it still exists, the attempt to form a settlement there having entirely failed. They pay tribute to the Zulus for the lands they cultivate on the right bank of the Zambesi, and the general effect of the pretense to power and obstruction to commerce is to drive the independent native chiefs to the Arab dhow slave-trade as the only one open to them.

It is well known to the English government, from reliable documents at the Admiralty and Foreign Office, that no longer ago than November, 1864, two months after my speech was delivered at Bath, when the punishment of the perpetrators of an outrage on the crew of the cutter of H. M. S. "Lyra," near a river 45 miles S.W. of Mozambique, was de« manded by H. M. S. " Wasp" at Mozambique, the present governor general declared that he had no power over the natives there. They have never been subdued, and, being a fine, energetic race, would readily enter into commercial treaties with foreigners, were it not for the false assertion of power by which the Portuguese, with the tacit consent of European

X POSTSCRIPT TO PREFACE.

governments, shut them out from commerce and every civilizing influence.

This Portuguese pretense to dominion is the curse of the negro race on the East Coast of Africa, and it would soon fall to the ground were it not for the moral support it derives from the respect paid to it by our own flag. The Emperor Napoleon III. disregarded it in the case of the "Charles et Georges," while only by the aid of English sailors has the government of Mozambique, on more than one occasion, been saved from being overturned. Our squadron on the East Coast costs over £70,000 a year, and, by our acquiescence in the sham sovereignty of the Portuguese, we effect only a partial suppression of the slave-trade, and none of the commercial benefits which have followed direct dealing with the natives on the West Coast. A new law for the abolition of slavery has been proposed by the King of Portugal, but it inspires me with no confidence, as no means have ever been taken to put similar enactments already passed into execution, and we can only view this as a new bid for still farther acquiescence in a system which perpetuates barbarism. Mons. Lacerda has unwittingly shown, by his eager advocacy, that the real sentiments of his employers are decidedly pro-slavery. The great fact that the Americans have rid themselves of the incubus of slavery, and will probably not tolerate the continuance of the murderous slave-trade by the Portuguese nation, has done more to elicit their king's recent speech than the opinions of his ministry.

Introduction

Objects of the Expedition.— Portuguese Expedition in Search of the Ophir of King Solomon.— India and not Africa indicated by the Merchandise sought. —Failure in Sofalla.— Second Portuguese Expedition after Gold Mines.— Repulsed by large bodies of Natives.— Catholic Missions.— Want of reliable Information regarding them.— Erroneous Ideas as to the Interior of Africa.— Sir Roderick Murchison's Hypothesis correct.— Decrease of the' Slave-trade, and Increase of lawful Commerce on the West Coast, owing to Lord Palmerston's Policy. — The Fatality of the Murderer attends the Slave-trader.— Opinion of Rev. J. L. Wilson on the Slave-trade.— The Operations of our Cruisers.— Ill Effects of sealing up the East Coast.— Instructions to the Expedition P^1

Chapter I

Reach the Coast.— Explore the River Luawe.— Mouths of the Zambesi.— Concealed to deceive English Cruisers. — The Deception palmed off on European Governments by Ministers in Portugal. — Official Testimony. — Kongone.— Scenery on the River.— Fertility of Delta Soil.— Colonos or Serfs — Deep Channel of the River.— Land Luggage on Expedition Island.— Country in a State of War.— "Free Emigrants."— Atrocities of Mariano.— Meet so-called " Rebels."— A Fight between Natives and Portuguese.— An Army waiting for Ammunition. — Birds and Beasts met with on the River.— Mazaro.— The Reshipment of Merchandise there for Quillimane. — Shupanga.— Zulu Dominion on the right bank of the Zambesi.— Tribute paid by the Portuguese. — Senna and Senhor Ferrao.— Seguati or Present. — Hippopotamus Hunters. — Peculiarity of Baobab-trees. — Lupata Gorge 14

Chapter II

Meet Makololo at Tette— Murder of Six of them by Bonga, the Son of Nyaude.— Ravages of Smallpox.— Makololo supported not according to public Orders, but by the private Bounty of Major Sicard.— Convict Class called " Incorrigibles."— Superstitions about Mangoes, Coffee, and Rain-making.— Securing Slaves by means of domestic Ties.— Case of voluntary Slavery — Cruel Nature of Half-castes.— Native love of Trade.— Native Medical Profession.—Elephant and Crocodile Schools of Medicine. — Dice Doctors and their use as detective Police.— Senna and Indigo Plants.— Coal, Gold, and Iron.— Ascent to Kebrabasa Rapids.— Black Glaze on Rocks.— Tribe of Baxii CONTENTS.

<tema.— A Traveler's Tale. — The River Luia.— Hippopotamus Flesh.— Difficult Traveling. — Curative Sleep. — Sunstroke. — Morumbwa Cataract. — Kebrabasa surveyed from End to End Page 48

Chapter III

Return from Kebrabasa. — Native Musicians and their Instruments. — Ignorance at Tette. — Changes produced by Rain after the hot Season. — Christmas in tropical Dress. — Opinions modified by early Associations in Northern Climes. — The Seasons at Tette. — Cotton-seed not needed. — African Fever. — Quinine not a Preventive of. — The best Precaution and Remedy. — "Warburgh's Drops." — Expedition turns from Kebrabasa toward the River Shire in January, 1859. — Reported Barrier to Navigation. — First Intercourse with unknown People. — Navigation of Shire. — Progress prevented by Murchison's Cataracts. — Return to Tette. — Second Trip up the Shire in March, 1859. — Chibisa. — Nyanja Mukulu. — Maniac Guides. — Discover Lake Shirwa on the 18th of April, 1859. — Mountains. — Return to the Vessel. — Severe case of Fever. — Return to Tette on the 23d of June. — Vessel found to be built of unstable Materials. — At Kongone in August 73

Chapter IV

Up the Shire again, August, 1859. — Mount Morambala. — Hot Fountain. — Chase by a Buffalo. — Nyanja Pangono, or Little Lake. — Nyanja Mukulu, or Great Lake. — Ancient Portuguese geographical Knowledge unavailable. — Chikanda-kadze. — Accident from unsuitability of Steamer. — Hippopotamus Traps. — Musquitoes. — Elephants. — View of the Shire Marshes. —

, Birds. — Palm Wine, or Su?-a. — Salt-making. — Brackish Soil and superior Cotton. — Dakanamoio Island. — A loving Hornbill. — Chibisa. — Child sold i n to S lavery 99

Chapter V

Leave the Vessel for Discovery of Lake Nyassa. — Manganja Highlands beautiful, well wooded, and well watered. — Pasturage. — Style of Introduction to the Manganja. — People Agriculturists, and Workers in Iron, Cotton, etc. — Foreign and indigenous Cotton. — The Pelek, or Lip-ring. — Possible Use for this Ornament. — Beer -drinkers. — Ordeal by Muave. — Mourning for the Dead. — Belief in a Supreme Being. — Pamalombe Lakelet. — Chief's Wife killed by a Crocodile. — Discovery of Lake Nyassa, 16th of September, 1859. — Its subsequent Discovery by Dr. Roscher. — The "Goree" or Slave-stick. — Several Modes by which the Slave-trade is supplied. — Ajawa. — Manganja.— More suspicious than the Zambesi Tribes. — Zimika's lack of Hospitality.— Fine and bracing Climate. — Great Influence to be gained by a steamer on Lake Nyassa 116

Chapter VI

Return to the Vessel. — Nearly Poisoned by the Juice of Cassava. — " Cassereep," or Cassava Sap, a perfect Preservative of Meat. — Dr. Kirk takes the direct Route from Chibisa's to Tette. — Great Suffering on the Journey. —

CONTENTS. xiii

Magnetical Observations by Charles Livingstone. — Shire Biscuit. — Wheaten Flour necessary for European Stomachs. — Season for sowing Wheat. — Off to Kongone. — Two Miles of Elephants. — Our generous friend Senhor Ferrao. — Kongone. — Beach the Vessel for Repairs. — Arrival of H. M.S. Lynx. — Loss of the Mail. — Leave for Tette Dec. 16th. — Governor at Shupanga. — His Opinions and ours. — Confessions of an old Slave-dealer. — Paul Mariano. —Arrival at Tette, Feb. 2d, I860.— Fabulous Silver Mine of Chicova.— Exactions of the Banyai submitted to by the Portuguese. — Sumptuary Laws. — Portuguese of Tette. — Wine or Climate? — Funerals. — Weddings. — Coal and Gold. — Defer our Departure for the Interior. — Down again to Kongone. — Up the Stream on the 15th of March. — Secret Canal used for Slaving. — Governor of Quillimane sent to discover Kongone. — Mr. Sunley's attempt to begin lawful Trade at River Angoxe. — Major Sicard at Mazaro. — Change of Names. — Its Advantages. — The "Asthmatic" very ill indeed. — Mr. Rae goes Home on Duty. — The Kwakwa River. — "Comical Creatures." — Mice. — Hope for fat Folk, or Cockroaches as aids to Banting. — Zulus come to lift their Rents at Senna. — Striped Senna Pigs and Fever. — Fever-plant. — Reach Tette on the 25th of April. — Want of Irrigation. — One Branch of Tette Industry Page 142

Chapter VII

Prepare for a Journey to the Makololo Country. — Sailor's Garden. — Wheat, Time and Mode of Sowing. — Start from Tette May 15th, to take the Makololo home. — Lukewarmness and Desertions. — Evil Effects of Contact with Slaves. — Man Lion and Lion Man. — Reasoning with a Lion. — Popular Belief.— New Path through Kebrabasa Hills. — Sandia. — Elephant -hunt. — Game Law. — A Feast of Elephant-meat. — We strike Zambesi by Morumbwa, and complete the Survey of Kebrabasa from End to End. — Banyai again. — View of Kebrabasa. — Chicova Plains and open River. — Sandia's Report of Kebrabasa 173

Chapter VIII

Pass from Kebrabasa on to Chicova on the 7th of June, 1860. — Native Travelers' Mode of making Fire. — Night Arrangements of the Camp. — Native Names of Stars. — Moon-blindness. — Our volunteer Fireman. — Native political Discussions. — Our Manner of Marching. — Not to make Toil of a Pleasure.— The Civilized show more endurance than the Uncivilized. — Chitora's Politeness. — Filtered Water preferred by native Women. — Whites Hobgoblins to the Blacks. — The fear of Man on wild Animals. — First Impressions of a Donkey's local Powers 192

Chapter IX

Seams of Coal under Tette gray Sandstone. — Use of Coal unknown to the Natives.— Mbia kills a Hippopotamus.— Traps and Pitfalls.— Sagacity of Elephants at Pitfalls.— White Ants and their Galleries.— Black Soldier-ants lord it over the White Ants.— Language of Ants.— Biting Ants.— Rogue xiv CONTENTS.

Monkey respected. — Native Salt-making. — The Mountains. — Chikwanitsela. — Afflictions of Beasts. — The human Buffalo. — Mpende. — Chilondo. — Monaheng murdered. — Animals which have not been hunted with Fire-arms. — Pangola. — A rifle-loving Chief. — Undi and Fate of African Empires. — Are Africans industrious? — Arrive at Zumbo, on the Loangwa, on the 2Gth of June. — ltesults of no Government. — Murder of Mpangwe. — Sequasha Page 202

Chapter X

Beautiful Situation of Zumbo. — Church in Ruins. — Why have the Catholic Missions failed to perpetuate the Faith? — Ma-mburuma. — Anti-slavery Principles a Recommendation. — Jujubes. — Tsetse. — Dr. Kirk dangerously ill in the Mountain Forest. — Our Men's feats of Hunting. — Hyenas. — Honey-guides.— Instinct of, how to be accounted for, Self-interest or Friendship ? — A Serpent.— Mpangwe's Village deserted. — Large Game abundant, — Difference of Flavor in. — Sights seen in Marching. — " Smokes" from Grass-burnings. — River Chongwe. — Bazizulu and their superior Cotton. — Escape from Rhinoceros. — The Wild Dog. — Families Flitting. — Tombanyama. — Confluence of the Kafue 221

Chapter XI

Semalcmbue. — Nchomokela. — Mr. Moffat's Mission to Moselekatse heard of. — Native Game-law. — Mountains. — Ancient State of the Country. — Neither Art nor Power possess the Effect of ancient Miracles. — Jealousy of Strangers not African, but Arab. — The Bawe and " Baenda pezi," or "Go-nakeds." — Their Hospitality. — Leave Zambesi, and ascend Zungwe to Batoka Highlands.— Sebetuane. — A Cairn. — Batoka Men of Peace. — Arboriculturists. — Grave-yards. — Muave. — Tsetse Medicine. — Desire for Peace. — Corn extensively cultivated. — A Poet and Minstrel. — Musical Instruments. — Our naked Friend. — Polite Tobacco-smokers. — Bawe never visited by Europeans before. — Slave-trade follows our Footsteps. — Attempt by the Governor General of Mozambique to shut up Rovuma. — Seabenzo. — Elephant killed. — Numbers annually slain. — Meteor. — The Falls visible upward of twenty Miles off. — Fever treated and untreated. — Moshobotwane. — Meet Makololo near the Falls 237

Chapter XII

Mosi-oa-tunya, or Victoria Falls.— Visit Garden Island. — Words fail to describe the Falls. — Twice the Depth of Niagara. — Mosi-oa-tunya bears the Palm. — Filled the native Mind with Awe. — No Portuguese Record of them. — Two Slaves reach Tette from Cassange, and make the "Portuguese Road" across Africa. — Mashotlane and his Prisoner 268

Chapter XIII

Condition of Fugitives and Captives in native Tribes. — Servitude in the Interior light as compared to Slavery on the Coast.— Molele's Village.— Scarcity of Food.— Tianyane identical with Ourebi.— The Poku.— Dr. Livingstone

CONTENTS. XV

consulted on the Value of Horses. — Mparira, village of Mokompa. — Stingless Bee. — Take Canoe for Sesheke. — Sekeletu's Attempt at enforcing Quarantine.— The Chiefs' Messengers. — "The Argument" for learning to read. — "Free Pratique." — Native Instructions. — The Cattle-post School. — Sesheke Old and New Town. — Sekeletu. — Nothing like Beef. — "Beef with and Beef without." — Visitors. — Sekeletu's Leprosy and its attendant Evils. — Disease pronounced Incurable by native Doctors. — Taken in hand by a Doctress. — Handed over to Drs. Livingstone and Kirk. — Improvement of the Patient. — Description of the Disease. — Tea and preserved Fruits from Benguela. — No Ivory, no Slave-trade. — Effect of Sekeletu's Orders in closing the Slavemarket. — Fashion. — Horse-dealing. — Peculiar Style of Pacing. — " The household Cavalry." — Produce of the Interior in Grain. — No Vegetables. — No Fruit. — Mr. Baldwin, aud Mr. Helmore's Party. — Sad breaking up of the Mission. — Fever, not Poison, the cause of Deaths Page 280

Chapter XIV

Sekeletu and our Presents. — His Idea of* Artillery Practice. — Sebituane's Sister's description of the first Appearance of Fever. — The Makololo the most intelligent of all the Tribes seen by us. — The Makololo of Old and Young Africa. — The Women, their Appearance and Ornaments. — Results of Polygamy.— Respectability reckoned by the Number of Wives. — Apparent, but not real, buying of Wives. — Elegant Amusements of the Ladies. — Matokwane. — Smoking and its Effects. — Novel Use of a Spoon. — Raw Butter. — Begging. — The Chief's Perquisites. — The Makololo who had seen the Sea. — Justice among the Makololo. — The Rights of Labor. — Religious Instruction.— Native Views on Matrimony. — The Chief and the Head Men. — Capital Punishment. — An old Warrior. — Ancient Costume of the Makololo. — Houses built by the Women. — Amusements of the Children. — Makololo Faith in Medicine. — Dr. Livingstone revisits Linyanti. — The Wagon left there in 1853 is found in Safe Keeping, with its Contents.— A native Proclamation.—Burial-place of Mr. Helmore and his Companions.— Faithfulness of the Makololo.— Sekeletu's Health improves.— His Esteem for Dr. Kirk.— His Desire for an English Settlement on the Batoka Highlands.— Stealing Cattle considered no Crime.— Divine Service at Sesheke.— Native Doubts as to the Possibility of a Resurrection 299

Chapter XV

Departure from Sesheke on the 17th of September, I860.— Convoyed by Pitsane and Leshore.— Embassy to Sinamane.— Leshore and his Crew. — Mobita and the Canoe-men.— Zambesi Fish, Ngwesi and Konokono.— Fish-bone Medicine. — Renew the Garden at Mosi-oa-tunya. — Kalunda and Moamba Falls. —Native desire of Pleasing. —Hospitality of the Batoka. —Native Fruits. — Valuable oil-yielding Tree. —Indian Trees in the centre of Africa. — Golongwe. — Great Heat. — Corns on the Feet not peculiar to the Civilized.—River Longkwe. — Gipsy Bellows in Africa. — Tin.— Chilombe Islet.

— Native Dress. — Sinamane and his Long Spears 321

Xvi CONTENTS.

Chapter XVI

Sinamanc. — Canoe Navigation. — Mocraba. — Water-drawing Stockades. — Generosity of the Batoka. — Purchase of a Canoe. — Ant-lions. — Herd of Hippopotami.— Cataract Doctor of Kariba. — Albinos, human and hippopotamic. — Meet Sequasha, not quite so Black as painted. — Native Mode of Salutation. — Karivua. — Gallant Conduct of the Makololo. — Breakfast interrupted by Mambo Kazai. — Dinner spoiled by pretended Aid. — Banyai. — Rapids of Kebrabasa. — Dr. Kirk in Danger. — Sad Loss of MSS., etc. — Death of one of our Donkeys. — Amiable Squeamishness of Makololo. — Dinner a la Panzo. — Reach Tette on the 23d of November. — "Jacks of all Trades." — Imposition practiced on the King of Portugal's Colonial Scheme Page 335

Chapter XVII

Down to Kongone. — Latest Bulletin of " the Asthmatic." — The old Lady's Demise.— Reach Senna by Canoe. — Unprofitable Trading by Slaves. — The Biter bit, or Sequasha squeezed. — Coals dear by Slave Labor. — His Excellency's Yacht. — Kongone. — English Papers. — Flesh, Fowl, Fish, and harmonious Crabs of the Mangrove Swamps. — Busungu. — The Sawfish.... 357

Chapter XVIII

Arrival of "the Pioneer." — Mission Staff taken to Johanna. — Bishop Mackenzie joins the Expedition up the Rovuma. — Fall of Water. — Return to Comoro.— Johanna. — Ascent of the Shire. — "The Pioneer" draws too much Water. — Charles Livingstone labors to stimulate Cotton Culture. — Want of Agents on the East Coast compared to the West Coast. — England's Labors there. — Their Value. — Expedition eminently successful. — Turning-point of Success. — Slaves rescued. — The Bishop accepts the Chief's invitation to Magomero. — Visit to the Ajawa, well-meant, ill-taken. — Stand at Bay. — Retreat of the Ajawa. — Bishop Mackenzie's Mission at Magomero. — Extent of Dr. Livingstone's Responsibility. — Return to the Ship 367

Chapter XIX

Fresh Start for Lake Nyassa. — Carry a Boat past the Cataracts. — Humpbacked Spokesman. — Lakelet Pamalombe. — Indications of Malaria. — Lake Nyassa. — Depth. — Size. — Shape. — Bays. — Mountains and Storms. — Crowds of People. — Midge Cake. — Fish, Sanjika, etc. — Apparent Laziness of the People.— Torpidity of Skin. — Buaze Nets. — Bark Cloth. — Beauty a la "Pelele." — Marenga's Generosity. — Horrors of inland Slave-trade. — Thieves; the first Robbery we suffered in Africa. — Native Graves. — Mazitu or Zulus. — Four days' Separation. — Rough Roads. — Man's Enemy, Man. — Our Dice Diviner vanishes, but reappears. — Elephants. — Arabs from Katanga. — Arab Geography of Tanganyika and Nyassa. — The Slave-trade. — Reed Huts in Papyrus. — Young Women got up for Sale. — Sensible old Woman. — Meet marauding Ajawa at Mikena's.— Elephants' athletic Sports 386

CONTENTS. XVJi

Chapter XX

Encouraging Prospects. — Bishop Mackenzie. — Our Progress down the River arrested. — The River flooded in January, 18G2. — Mariano resumes his Career of Slave-hunting. — The Governor plays at Hide and Seek with him. — Captain Alvez. — Reach the Zambesi. — A Slave-owner's Ideas of his Slaves. — Wisdom and Humanity of Napoleon III. — At Luabo. — Arrival ofH.M.S. Gorgon. — The Pioneer out of Repair. — Captain Wilson proceeds up the Shire. — Continuation of the Story of the Bishop's Mission. — He descends the Shire in a small Canoe. — Loses Clothing, Medicine, etc. — Fever. — Death and Burial. — His Character. — Kindness of the Makololo. — Death of Mr. Burrup. — Captain Wilson returns to Shupanga. — The Rev. James Stewart examines the Country previous to attempting a Mission by the Free Church of Scotland. — Portuguese Policy and Slave-trading are the chief Obstacles to any Mission. — Personal Responsibility ignored and Blame put on others. — Mrs. Livingstone's Illness, and Death on the 27th of April, 1862 Page 421

Chapter XXI

Dr. Kirk and Charles Livingstone proceed to Tette. — Belchior's Wars. — Governor Almeida's praiseworthy Interdict. — Connivance of the Governor General at the Slave-trade. — Masters and Slaves. — No love lost. — Launch of the LadyNyassa. — Native Speculations on the Buoyancy of Iron. — Freedom of Discussion on certain Subjects. — Birds at Play. — Our new Quarter-master. — Start of the Lady Nyassa deferred. — Portuguese "prohibitive" permission for Trading. — Up the Rovuma in Boats. — Inhabitants. — Mats. — Tsetse. — Zigzag Channel. — A queer Fish. — Canoe Rivalry. — The Englishman in Africa.— An old Lady opens the Market. — Men with Pelele. — Mabiha.— Makoa. — Slave Route to Kilwa. — Life on a Sand-bank. — Unprovoked Hostility. — Hives and Honey. — Coal found. — A jolly young Waterwoman. — Our Progress stopped by rocky Narrows. — Sources of the Rovuma. — Crocodiles. — Their Eggs. — Hunting the Senze. — Back again to the Pioneer 441

Chapter XXII

Quillimane. — Colonel Nunez. — Government opposed to Agriculture. — Passport System. — The Quillimane "Do-nothings." — Return to the Zambesi. — Shupanga, December. 19th, 1862.— Our Mazaro Men and their Relations.— Famine at Tette.— Dispersion of Slaves. — "The Portuguese don't Farm" nor Hunt. — January 10th, the Lady Nyassa in tow. — Mariano's Atrocities. — The Bishop's Grave.— Smelfrand Hearing in Animals.— Angling for Crocodile.—Frightful Sight.— Crocodile versus Makololo.— Penetration of Air throughout the Systems of Birds.— Return of Mr. Thornton. —Kilimanjaro. — Mr. Thornton's generous Kindness to the Mission. — Journey to Tette too much for him. — His Death and Grave. — WTide-spread Desolation. — Slave-trade and Famine. — Marsh Culture. — Lethargy of the remnant of the People.— Skeletons. — Abolition of the Slave-trade a sine qua non. — Influence of the English Steamer on Lake Nyassa. — Road-making. — Green Freshness of Hills. — No Provisions to be bought. — No Labor. — Poor Food and dexviii CONTENTS.