Livingstone's Africa: perilous adventures and extensive discoveries in the interior of Africa

Front matter

^.yJ

KL>^ AND THE " *"' " F

Ef^ALD-STAINfLEY

Introduction

Personal Saetcb — Highland Ancestors — Family Traditions —Grandfather removes to t'ho Lowlands — Parents — Early Labors and Efforts — Evening School — Love of Reading — Religious Impressions — Medical Education — Youthful Travels — Geology — Mental Discipline — Study in Glasgow — London Missionary Society — N xvve Village — Medical Diploma — Theological Studies — Departure for Africa No Claim to Literary Accomplishments Page il

Chapter I

The Bakwdin Country — Study of the Language — Mabotsa Station — A Lion Encounter — Virus of the Teeth of Lions — Scchele — Baptism of Seehele — Opposition of the Natives — Purchase Land at Chonuilue — Relations with the People — Their Intelligence — Prolonged Drought — Consequent Trials — The Hunting IIopo 18

CHAPTER IL

The Boers — Their Treatment of the Natives — The Tale of the Cannon — The Boers threaten Seehele — In violation of Treaty, they expel Missionaries — They attack the Bakwains — Their Mode of Fighting — -The Natives killed and the School-Children carried into Slavery — Destruction of English Property— Continued Hostility of the Boers — The Journey North — Preparations— Fellow-Travellers 28

CHAPTER IIL

Departure from Kolobeng, 1st June, 1S49 — Companions — Our Route — Sorotii, a Fountain in the Desert — The Hyena — The Chief Sekouii — Dangers — The Wandering Guide — Cross Purposes — Slow Progress — Want of AV^ater — The ■"ii!t-l'an at Ncbokotsa — The Mirage — Reach the River Zouga — The Quaker? f Africa — Discovery of Lake Ngami, 1st August, 1849 — Its Extent — Small Uepth of Water — The Bamangwato and their Chief — Desire to risit Sebituane, the Chief of the Makololo — Refusal of Lechulatebe to furnish us witfc 'Viidas — The Banks of tho Zouga 34

CHAPTER IV.

Leave Kolobeng again for the Country of Scbituane — Reach the Zouga- -The Tsetse — A Party of Englishmen — Death of Mr. Rider — Obtain Guides — Children lull sick with Fever — Relinquish the Attempt to reach Sobituane — Return to Kolobeng — Make a Third Start thence — Reach Nchokotsa — Oii)

VI Ji CONTENTS.

Guide Sbobo— The 13anaj6a— An Ugly Chief— The Tsetse- Bite fatal to Domestis Animals, but harmless to Wild Animals and Man — Operition ot the Poison— Losses caused by it — The Makololo — Our Meeting with Sebi tuane — His Sudden Illness and Death — Succeeded by his Daughter— Her Friendliness to us — Discovery, in June, 1851, of the Zambesi flowing in the Centre of the Continent — Determine to send Family to England — Return to the Capo in April, 1852 — Safe Transit through the Caffre Country during Hostilities — Need of a '• Special Correspondent" — Kindness of the London Missionary Society — Assistance afiforded by the Astronomer-Royal at the Cape Page 44

CHAPTER V.

Start, in June, 1852, on the Last and Longest Journey from Cape Town- - Companions — Wagon-Travelling — Migration of Springbucks — The Orang* River — Territory of the Griquas and Bechuanas — The Griquas — The Chief Waterboer — His Wise and Energetic Government — His Fidelity — Success of the Missionaries among the Griquas and Bechuanas — Manifest Improvement of the Native Character — Dress of the Natives — Articles of Commerce in the Country of the Bechuanas — Their Unwillini^ness to learn and Readiness to criticize il

CHAPTER VL

Kuruman — Its fine Fountain — The Bible translated by Mr. Alull'at — Capabilities of the Language — Christianity among the Natives — Disgraceful Attack of the Boers on the Bakwains — Letter from Sechele— Details of the Attack — Destruction of House and Property at Kolobcng — The Boers vow Vengeance against me — Consequent Difficulty of getting Servants to accompany mo on my Journey — Start in November, 1852 — Meet Sechele on hia way to England to obtain Redress from the Queen — He is unable to proceed beyond the Cape — Meet Mr. Macabe on his Return from Lake Ngami — Reach Litubaruba — The Cave Lepelole — Superstitions regarding it — Impoverished State of the Bakwains — Retaliation ou the Boers — Slavery — Attachment of the Bechuanas to Children 63

CHAPTER VIL

Departure from the Country of the Bakwains — Largo Black Ant — Habits of Old Lions — Cowardice of the Lion — Its Dread of a Snare — Major Vardon'a Note — The Roar of the Lion resembles the Cry of the Ostrich — Seldoia attacks full-grown Animals— Buffaloes and Lions — Sekomi's Ideas of Honesty— Gordon Cumming's Hunting Adventures — A Word of Advice for Youag Sportsmen — Busbwomen drawing AVater 73

CHAPTER VIIL

Effectr jf Missionary Efforts — ISelief in the Deity — Departure from iheir Coui/try — Nebokotsa — The Btishuien— Their Superstitions — Elephant-HantlEg — The Chief Kaisa — His Fear of Rcitponsibility — Severe Labor in cutting our Way — Party seized with Fever — Discovery of Grape-Bearing Vines — Difficulty of passing through the Forest — Sickness of my Companion — The Bushmen — Their Mode of destroying Lions — Poisons — A Pontooniug Expedition— The Chobe — Arrive at the Village of Moremi — Surprise c*" the Makololo a" our Sudden Appearance — Cross the Chobo on our wav ti Linyanti *"

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IX.

Reception at Linyanti— The Court Herald— Sekeletu obtains the Chioftainfhip from his Sister— Sckeletu's Reason for not learning to road the Bible- Public Religious Services in the Kotla— Unfavorable Associations of the Place— Native Doctors— Proposals to teach the Makololo to read— Sekeleta's Present— Reason for accepting it— Trading in Ivory— Accidental Firo— Presents for Sekeletu Page 96

CHAPTER X.

Ihe Fever— Its Symptoms— Remedies of the Native Doctors— IlospiUlity of Sekeletu and his People— They cultivate largely— The Makalaka or Subject Tribes— Sebituane's Policy respecting them— Their Affection for him— Products of the Soil— Instrument of Culture— The Tribute— Distributed ty the Chief— A Warlike Demonstration — Lechulatebe's Provocations — The Makololo determine to punish him 104

CHAPTER XI.

Departure from Linyanti for Sesheke— Level Country— Ant-Hills— Wild Date- Trees — Appearance of our Attendants on the March — The Chief's Guard— They attempt to ride on Oxback — Reception at tho Villages — Presents of Beer and Milk — Eating with the Hand— The Chief provides tho Oxen for Slaughter — Social Mode of Eating— Cleanliness of Makololo Huts — Their Construction and Appearance — The Beds — Cross the Leeambye — Aspect of this part of the Country — Hunting — An Eland . 109

CHAPTER XIL

Procure Canoes and ascena Ibo Leeambye — Beautiful Islands — AVinter Landscape— Industry and Skill uf the Banyeti — Rapids — Falls of Gonye — Nalicle, tho Capital, built on an Artificial Mound — Santuru, a Great Hunter — >The Barotse — More Religious Feeling — Belief in a Future Stato and in the Existence of Spiritual Beings — Hippopotamus-Hunters — No Healthy Location— Determine to go to Loanda — Buflaloes, Elands, and Lions above Libonta — Two Arabs from Zanzibar — Their Opinion of the Portuguese and the English — Reach tho Town of Ma-Sekeletu — Joy of the People at tlw First Visit of their Chief — Return to Sesheke — Heathenism llfl

CHAPTER XIII

Preliminary Arrangements for the Journey — A Picho — Twenty-Seven Men f ppointed to accompany me to tho West — Eagerness of tho Makololi; fdi Direct Trade with the Coast — Effects of Fever — A Makololo Question — Reflections— The Outfit for the Journey — lltli November, 1853, leave Linyanti and embark on the Chobe — Dangerous Hippopotami — Banks of Chobe — Xrees — The Course of the River — The Island Mparia at the Confluence of the Chobe and the Leeambye — Anecdote — Ascend tho Leeambye — Public Addresses at Sesheke — Attention of the People — Results — Proceed up th« River — The Fruit which yields Nux vomica — The Rapids — Hippopotami and their Young 128

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIV.

Increasing Beauty :f tLo Country — Mode of spending the Day— The People ftud tbo Falls of Gonyc — A Makololo Foray — A second prevoutetl, and Captive* delivered up — Politeness and Liberality of the People — The Kains — Present of Oxen — Death from a Lion's Bite at Libonta — Continued Kindness — Arrangements for spending the Night during the Journej' — Cooking and Washing — Abundance of Animal Life— Alligators — Narrow Escape of one of my Men — Superstitious Feelings respecting the Alligator — Large Game— Ehoals of Fish — Hippopotami Pago I'^s

CHAPTER XV.

Message to Masiko, the Barotse Chief, regarding the Captives^Navigation of the Leeambye — Capabilities of this District — The Leeba — Buffalo-Hunt— Suspicion of the Balonda — Sekelcnke's Present — Message from Manenko, a Female Chief — Mambari Traders — A Dream — Sheak6ndo and his People — Interview with Nyamoina, an Hber Female Chief— Court Etiquette — Haii versus Wool — Increase of Superstition — Arrival of Manenko : her Appearance and Husband — Mode of Salutation — Anklets — Embassy, with a Present from Masiko — Roast Beef — Manioc — Magic Lantern — Manenko an Accomplished Scold : compels us to wait 148

CHAPTER XVI.

Nyamoana's Present — Charms — Manenko's Pedestrian Powers — Rain — Hungei — Dense Forests — Artificial Bee-Hives — Villagers lend the Roofs of their Houses — Divination and Idols — Manenko's Whims — Shinte's Messengers and Present — The Proper Way to approach a Village — A Merman — Enter Shinte's Town : its Appearance— Meet two Ilalf-Caste Slave-Traders — The Makololo scorn them— The Balonda Real Negroes — Grand Reception from Shinte — His Kotla — CeremcEv of Introduction — The Orators — -Women — Musicians and Musical Instruments — A Disagreeable Request — Private Interviews with Shinte — Give him an Ox — Manenko's New Hut — Conversation with Shinte — Kolimb6ta's Projxisal — Balonda's Punctiliousness — Sulling Children — Kidnapping — Shinte's Offer of a Slave — Magic Lantern — Alarm of Women — ^Dclay — Sambiluza returns intoxicated — The Last and Greatest Proof of Shinte's Friendship 162

CHAPTER XVII.

Leavt Shinte — Manioc-Gardens — Presents of Food — Punctiliousness of the Balonda — Cazembe — Inquiries for English Cotton Goods — Intemese's Fiction — Locs of Pontoon — Plains covered with Water — A Night on an Island — Loan of the Roofs of Huts — A Halt — Omnivorous Fish — Natives' Mode of catching them — The Village of a Half-Brother of Katema: his Speech and Present — Our Guide's Perversity — Mozenkwa's Pleasant Home and Family ■ — A Messenger from Katema— Quendende's Village: his Kindness — Crop of Wool — Meet People from thu Town of Matiamvo — Fireside Talk— Matiamvo's Character and Conduct— Presentation at Katema's Court : his Present— Interview on the following Day — Cattle — A Feast and a Makclolc Dance— Sagacity of Ants 180

CONTENTS

CHAPTER XVIII.

The "Watershed between the Northern and Southern Rivers — A Deep Vallej'— Rustic Bridge— Fountains on the Slopes of the Valleys— Village of Kabicje —Demand for Gunpowder and English Calico— The Kasai— Vexatious Trick —Want of Food — No Game — Katende's Unreasonable Demand — A Grave 9fi"ence— Toll-Bridge Keeper— Greedy Guides— Flooded Valleys -Swim the Nuana Lok6— Prompt Kindness of my Men— Makololo Remarks on the ricb Uncultivated Valleys— Difference in the Color of Africans— Reach a Village of the Chiboque— The Head Man's Impudent Message— Surrounds our Encampment with his Warriors— The Pretence- Their Demand— Prospect of a Fight— Way in which it was averted — Change our Path — The Ox Sinbad— Insubordination supprefised— Beset by Enemies— A Robber Party— Mort Troubles- Detained by longa Panza— His Village— Annoyed by Bangala Traders — My Men discouraged — Their Determination and Precaution Pagel99

CHAPTER XIX.

Guides Prepaid— Bark Canoes — Deserted by Guides— Native Traders— Valley 'jf the Quango— The Chief Sansawe— His Hostility— Pass him saf?ly — The River Quango — Chief's Mode of dressing his Hair — Opposition — Opportune Aid by Cypriano— His Generous Hospitality— Arrive at Cassange— A Good Supper— Kindn-css of Captain Noves — Portuguese Curiosity and Questions — Anniversary of the Resurrection — No Prejudice against Color — Country around Cassange— Sell Sekeletu's Ivory- Makololo's Surprise at the High Price obtained— Proposal to return Home, and Reasons— Soldier-Guide — Tala Mungongo, Village of— Civility of Basongo— Fever— Enter District of Ambaca — Good Fruits of Jesuit Teaching— The Tampan: its Bite — Universal Hospitality of the Portuguese— A Tale of the Mambari— Exhilarating Effects of Highland Scenery— District of Golungo Alto— Fertility— Forests of Gigantic Timber— Native Carpenters— Coffee-Estate— Sterility of Country near the Coast — Fears of the Makololo — Welcome by Mr. Gabriel to Loan da 224

CHAPTER XX.

Continued Sickness — Kindness of the Bishop of Angola and her Majesty's Officers — Mr. Gabriel's Unwearied Hospitality — Serious Deportment of the Makololo— They visit Ships of AVar- Politeness of the Officers and Men— The Makololo attend Mass in the Cathedral — Their Remarks— Find Employment in collecting Firewood and unloading Coal — Their Superior Judgment respecting Goods — Beneficial Influence of the Bishop of Angola— The City of St. Paul de Loanda — The Harbor — Custom-House — No English MerchaiiU — Sincerity of the Portuguese Government in suppressing tho Slavo-Trade - Convict Soldiers — Presents from Bishop and Merchants for Sekelctu — Cutfii —Leave Loanda 2()th September, 1854 — Accompanied by Mr. Gabriel as i'di as IcoUo i Bengo — Women spinning Cotton — Cazengo : its Coffee-Plania tions — South American Trees— Ruins of Iron-Foundry — Native Miners - Coffee-Plantations— Return to Golungo Alto — Self-Complacency of tho M* kololo — Fever — Jaundice — Insanity 251

CHAPTER XXL

Visit a Deserted Convent — Favorable Report of Jesuits and their Teaching - Marriages and Funerals — Litigation — Mr. Canto's Illness— Bad Behavior o( his Slaves — An Entertainment— Ideas oa Free Labor— Loss of American xli CONTENTS

Cotton-Seed — Abundance of Cotton in the Country — Sickness of Sekeletu's Horse — Eclipse of the Sun — Insects which distill Water — Experiments witb them — Proceed to Ambaca — Present from Mr. Schut, of Loanda — Visit Pungc Andongo— Its Good Pasturage, Grain, Fruit, &c. — The Fort and Columnar Rocks — Salubrity of Pungo Andongo — Price of a Slave — A Merchant-Prince — His Hospitality — Hear of the Loss of my Papers in " Forerunner" — Njjtrcw Escape from an Alligator — Ancient Burial-Places — Neglect of Agricul. tnro in Angola — Manioc the Staple Product— Its Cheapness — Sickness — Friendly Visit from a Colored Priest — Tho Prince of Congo — No Priests in the Interior of Angola Page 265

CHAPTER XXII.

Leave Pungo Andongo — Extent of Portuguese Power — Meet I'raders and Carriers— Descend the Heights of Tala Mungongo — Cassange Village — Quinine and Cathory — Sickness of Captain Ncves's Infant — Loss of Life from the Ordeal — Wide-Spread Superstitions— The Chieftainship — Receive Copies of the "Times" — Trading Pomboiros- Present for Matiamvo — Fever after Westerly Winds — Capabilities of Angola for producing tho Raw Materials of English Manufacture — Trading-Parties with Ivory — More Fever — A Hyena's Choice — Makololo Opinion of the Portuguese — Cypriano's Debt- - A Fnneral — Dread of Disembodied Spirits — Crossing the Quango — Ambakistas called "The Jews of Angola" — Fashions of tho Bashinje — Approach tho Village of Sansawe — His Idea of Dignity — The Pombeiros' Present — Long Detention — A Blow on the Beard — Attacked in a Forest— Sudden Conversion of a Fighting Chief to Peace-Principles by means of a Revolver— No Blood shed in consequence — Rate of Travelling — Feeders of the Congo or Zaire — Obliged to refuse Presents — Cross the Loajima — Appearance of People: Hair-Fashions 280

CHAPTER XXIIL

Make a Detour southward — Tho Chihombo — Cabango — Send a Sketch of the . Country to Mr. Gabriel — The Chief Bango— Valley of the Loembwe — Funeral Observances — Agreeable Intercourse with Kawawa — His Impudent Demand 298

CHAPTER XXIV.

Level Plains — Vultures — Twenty-Seventh Attack of Fever — Reach Katema's Town — His Renewed Hospitality — Ford Southern Branch of Lako Dilolo — Hearty Vi^clcomo from Shinto — Nyamoana now a AVidow — Purchase Canoes and descend tho Lccba— Despatch a Message to Manenko — Arrival of her Husband Sambnnza — Mambawe Hunters — Charged by a Buffalo — Reception from the People of Libonta — Explain the Causes of our Long Delay — Fit- Bane's Speech— Thanksgiving Services — Appearanco of my " Braves" — Wonderful Kindness of the People 303

CHAPTER XXV.

Colony of Birds called Linkololo — Tho Village of Chitlane — Murder of Mpo lolo's Daughter — Execution of the Murderer and his Wife — My Companions find that their V/ives have married other Husbands— Sunday — A Party from Masiko — Freedom of Speech — Canoe struck by a Hippopotamus — Appearance of Trees at the End of Winter — Murky Atmosphere — Surprising Amount of Organic Life — The Packages forwarded by Mr. Molfat — Makololo Suspicions and Reply to the Matebelo who brought them — Convey the Goods to an Island and build a Hut over them — Ascertain that Sir R. Murchison had

CONTENTS. xiii

recognised tho True Form of African Continent — Arrival at L'myanti — A Grand Picho — Shrewd Inquiry — Sekelotu in his Uniform — A Trading-Party sent to Loanda with Ivory — Mr. Gabriel's Kindness to them — -Two Makololo Forays during our Absence — Tho Makololo desire to be nearer the Market- - Opinions upon a Change of Residence — Sekeletu's Hospitality — Sekeletu wishes to purchase a Sugar-Mill, Ac. — Tho Donkeys — Influence among the Natives — "Food fit for a Chief" — Parting Words of Mamlro — ^Motibe'ft Excuses Page 311

CHAPTER XXVI.

Departure from Linyanti — A Thunder-Storm — An Act of Genuine Kindness — Fitted out a Second Time by tho Blakololo — Sail down the Lceambye — Vic toria Falls — Native Names — Columns of Vapor — Gigantic Crack — Wear of the Rocks — Second Visit to the Falls — Part with Sekeletu — Night-Travelling— Moyara's Village — Savago Customs of tho Batoka — A Chain of Trading-Stations—" The Well of Joy"— First Traces of Trado with Europeans— Knocking out the Front Teeth — Facetious Explanation — Degradation of tho Batoka — Description of tho Travelling-Party — Cross tho Unguesi — Ruinp of a Large Town 326

CHAPTER XXVII.

Low Hills — A Wounded Buffalo assisted — Buffalo-Bird — Rhinoceros-Bird — The Honey-Guide — The Whito Mountain — Sebituane's Old Home — Hostile Village — Prophetic Frenzy — Friendly Batoka — Clothing dcspised^Method of Salutation — Tho Captive released — The Village of Mouze — Aspect of the Country — Visit from the Chief Mouze and his Wife — Central Healthy Locations— Friendly Feelings of the People in reference to a White Resident — Kindness and Remarks of Monzc's Sister — Generosity of the Inhabitants— Their Anxiety for Medicine^IIooping-Cough ;-;39

CHAPTER XXVIIL

Beautiful Valley— Buffalo— My Young Men kill two Elephants— The Hunt— Semalembuo — His Presents — Joy in prospect of living in Peace — Trade— Ilia People's Way of wearing their Hair — Their Mode of Salutation — Old Encampment— Sebituano's former Residence — Ford of Kafue — 'Prodigioua Quantities of Largo Game — Their Tameness — Rains — Less Sickness than in the Journey to Loanda — Reason — Charge from an Elephant — Vast Amount of Animal Life on the Zambesi— V/ater of River discolored — An Island with Buffaloes and IMen on it — Native Devices for killing Game — Tsetse now in Country — Agricultural Industry — An Albino murdered by his Mother — "Guilty of Tlolo" — Women who make their Mouths '•'like those of Ducks" — First Symptom of the Slave-Trade on this Side — Selole's Hostility — An Armed Party hoaxed — An Italian Marauder slain — Elephant's Tenacity of Life — A AVord to Young Sportsmen — Mr. Oswell's Adventure v/ith an Elephant: Narrow Escape — Mburuma's Village — Suspicious Conduct of his People — Guides attempt to detain us — The Village and People of Ma- Mburuma — Character our Guides give of us 35J

CHAPTER XXIX.

Confluence of Loangwa and Zambesi — Hostile Appearances — Huins of a Church — Turmoil of Spirit — Cross the River — Friendly Parting — Tho Situation of Zurabo for Commerce — Pleasant Gardens — Dr. Lacerda's Visit to Cazembe— Pereira's Statement — Unsuccessful Attempt to establish Trade

XIV CONTENTS.

with ihe People of Cazembe — One of my Men tossed by a Buffalo —Meet a Man with Jacket and Hat on — Hear of the Portuguese and Native War- Dancing for Corn — JMpende's Hostility — Incantations — A Fight anticipated — Courage and Remarks of my Men — Visit from two old Councillors of Mpcinle — Their Opinion of the English — Mpende concludes not to fight us — llij subsequent Friondsliip — Aids us to cross the River — Desertion of one of my Men — Meet Native Traders with American Calico — Boroiua — Freshets — Leave the River — Loquacious Guide — Nyampungo, the Rain-Charmer — An on Man — Nfl Silver— Gold- Washing — Nj Cattle Page 372

CHAPTER XXX.

An Elephant-Hunt — Offering and Prayers to the Barimo for Success — Nativ« Mode of Expression— -Working of Game-Laws — A Feast — Laughing Hycrjas — Numerous Insects — Curious Notes of Birds of Song — Caterpillars — Butter flies — Silica — Tiie Fruit Makoronga and Elephants — Rhinoceros-Adventure — Honey and Bees'- Wax — Superstitious Reverence for tlie Lion — Slow Trarelling — Grapes — The Ue — Monina's Village — Native Names — Suspected of Falsehood — War-Dance — Insanity and Disappearance of Monahin — Fruitless Search — Monina's Sympathy — The Sand-River Tangwc — The Ordeal Muavi : its Victims — An Unreasonable Man — "Woman's Rights" — Presents — Temperance — A Winding Course to shun Villages — Bunyai Complexion and Hair — Mushrooms — The Tubers, Mokuri — -The Tree Shckabakadzi— Face of the Country— Pot-Holcs — Pursued by a Party of Natives^Unpleaeant Threat — Aroused by a Company of Soldiers — A Civilized Breakfast — Arrival at Tele 387

CJIAl'TER XXXL

tvind Reception from the Commandant — His Generosity to my Men — -The Village of I'ete — The Population — Distilled Spirits — The Fort — Cause of the Decadence of Portuguese Power — Former Trade — Slaves employed in Gold- Washing — Slave-Trade drained the Country of Laborers — The Rebel Nyaude's Stockade — He burns Tctc — Extensive Field of Sugarcane — The Commandant's Good Reputation among the Natives — Providential Guidance — Seams of Coal — A Hot Spring — Picturesque Country — Watcr-Carriage t« the Conl-Fields — Workmen's AVages — Exports — Price of Provisions — Visit Gold-Washings — Coal within a Gold-Field — Present from Major Sicard- - Natives raise Wheat, Ac. — Liberality of the Commandant — Geographical Information from Senhor Candido — Earthquakes — Disinterested Kindness of the Portuguese 405

CHAPTER XXXIL

Leave Tete and proceed down the River — Pass the Stockade of Bonga— War- Drum at Shiramba — Reach Senna — -Its Ruinous State — Landoens levy Fine* upon the Inhabitants — Cowardice of Native Militia— Boat-Building at Senna — Our Departure — Fever: its EflFects — Kindly received into the House of Colonel Nunes at Kilimane — Forethought of Captain Nolloth and Dr. Walsh — Joy imbittered — Deep Obligations to the Earl of Clarendon, Ac. — Desirableness of Missionary Societies selecting Healthy Stations — Arrangements on leaving my Men — Site of Kilimane — Unhealthiness — Arrival of U.M. Brig "Frolic" — Anxiety of one of my Men to go to England — Rough Passage in the Boats to the Ship — Sekwebu's Alarm — Sail for Mauritius- Sekwebu on board : ho becomes insane: drowns himself — Kindness of Major- Oeneral C. M. Hay — Escape Shipwreck — Reach Home 420

Historical Sketch of Discoveuv in Africa 434

CONTENTS. XV

CHAPTER XXXIII.

The time spent in England— Honors conferred on Dr. Livingstone— The next E.^pedition— Tliu Ste.imer Pearl— The launch "Ma Robert "—The Zambesi —Firing Up with Ebony and Lignum Vitse— The Baobab Tree — Tette — SuperstiT;ions of the Natives— Gun and other Doclors—Morunibwa— A Native Concert— An African Christmas— The African Language— The Flood of the Zambesi— African Fever— The Sliire— The "Murchison" Cataracts— The Divine Right of Kings — Crazy Guides Page 434

CHAPTER XXXIV.

Search for Lake Nyassa— The Chief Tinjane— Elephant Marsh— The Borassus Palm— Discovering Lake Nyassa — Protected Villages — A Woman Rondo — Cotton Raising and Iron Working — The Pepele, an Evidence of the Force of Fashion — Manganja Beer — The Price of Slaves 442

CHAPTER XXXV.

Returning the Makololo to their Homes — Resemblance of Africans to Ancient Assyrians — The Order of March — Deposits of Coal — The Ruins of ZMmbo — The Honey Bird — The Baenda-pezi, or " Go-nakeds " — Native African Poets 450

CHAPTER XXXVI.

Victoria Fall? — Comparison with Niagara — The View from Gaiden Island — Columns of Vapor — The Upper Zambesi — Meat- Eaters and Grain-Eaters — A Fashionable Lady — Polygamy — Smoking Bang — The Labor Question — Batoka Manners — The Color of the Africans — The Tsetse — Return to Tette 461

CHAPTER XXXVn.

Arrival of the " Pioneer" — The Missionaries — Again on the Shire — Freeing a Party of Slaves— On to Lake Nyassa— Its Banks Thickly Settled— A Cake of Flies — Lost for Four Days — The Zambesi Again — Arrival of Mrs. Livingstone— Her Death and Burial — Exploring the Rovuma — Returning to the "Pioneer" 47.3

CHAPTER XXXVIIL

Up the Shire Again— Notes on Crocodiles — Varieties of Poisons — Native Superstitions— The Cataracts of the Shire — A Woman Chief — Return to the Coast — Trip to Bombay — Arrival in England 480

CHAPTER XXXrX.

Starts on a Fresh Voyage — Report of his Death — Doubts of the Accuracy of the Story — Search Expedition — The Hernhl Expedition — Livingstone Found — The Meeting — Livingstone's Storv i.f his Travels — The End of Nyassa Lake — The Head Waterf of the Nile — Lake liineoln — Livingstone iiml Stanley Exploring in Company — Return <>i the Herald Expedition 402

XVI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XL.

Stanley Arrives at Marseilles — Livingstone's Insensibility to Fear — Livingstone's Letter to the Herald — The Evils of the Slave Trade — Bloated African Aristocrats — The Beauty of the Women — Their Ornaments — Dying of a Broken Heart — A Cannibal Nation — Lake Lincoln — A Comparison of Africans with Europeans — Native Markets Page 513

CHAPTER XLL

Doubts of the Accounts brought by Stanley — Proofs of their Veracity — Grass Ten Feet High — Natural Grass Bridges — The Home of the Gorilla — Winter Quarters — Ulcerated Feet — Gorilla Eaters — Livingstone to Lord Clarendon — The Springs of the Nile^ — The Mountains of the Moon — The Secret of the Nile — Cannibals — Guns Thought to be Supernatural — The Reasons why the Expedition Failed — The Further Discoveries Livingstone Hopes to Make 531

Historical Sketch of Discoveries in Africa 586

The Diamond Diggings at New Rush 597

JOURNEYS AND RESEARCHES

IN

SOUTH AFRICA.

INTRODUCTION.

My own inclination Avould lead nie to say as little as possible about myself; but several friends, in whose judgment I have confidence, have suggested that, as the reader likes to know something about the author, a short account of his origin and early life would lend additional interest to this book. Such is my excuse for the following egotism ; and, if any apology be necessary for giving a genealogy, I find it in the fact that it is not very long, and contains only one incident of which I have reason to be proud.

Our great-grandfather fell at the battle of CuUoden, fighting for the old line of kings; and our grandfather was a small farmer in Ulva, where my father was born. It is one of that cluster of the Hebrides thus alluded to by Walter Scott : —

" And Ulva dark, and Colonsay, And all the group of islets gay That guard famed Stafifa round."*

Our grandfather was intimately acquainted with all the traditionary legends which that great writer has since made use of in the "Tales of a Grandfather " and other works. As a boy I remember listening to him with de-

* Lord of the Isles, canto iv.

4 THE AUTnOR'S ANCESTORS.

light, for his memory -was stored with a ncver-emlin^ Btock of stories, many of which were wonderfull}^ like those I have since heard while sitting by the African evening fires. Our grandmother, too, used to sing Gaelic Bongs, some of which, as she believed, had been composed by captive islanders languishing hopelessly among the Turks.

Grandfather could give particulars of the lives of his ancestors for six generations of the family before him; and the only point of the tradition I feel proud of is this : One of these poor hardy islanders was renowned in the district for great wisdom and lirudencc; and it is related that, Avhen he was on his death-bed, he called all his children around him and said, " ]S"ow, in my lifetime I have searched most cai'cfully through all the traditions I could find of our family, and I never could discover that there was a dishonest man among our forefathers. If, therefore, any of you or any of your children should take to dishonest ways, it will not be because it runs in our blood ; it does not belong to you. I leave this precept with you : Be honest." If, therefore, in the following pages I fall into any errors, I hope they will be dealt with as honesi mistakes, and not as indicating that I have forgotten our ancient motto. This event took ]jlacc- at a time wlien the Highlanders, according to Macaulay, were much like the Cape Caffi'cs, and an}^ one, it was said, could escape punishment for cattle-stealing by presenting a share of the plunder to his chieftain. Our ancestors were Eoman Catholics : they were made Protestants by the laird coming round with a man having a yellow staff, which would seem to have attracted more attention than his teaching, for the new religion went long afterward, perhaps it does so still, by the name of ''the religion of the yellow stick."