Travels in Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Hanover, Germany, Netherlands, etc

Front matter

f Clark sc. 1 / frrJdœ/vf/J From .jJft.'i-A fy W. A. Wilson Es?T TRAVELS IN NORWAY, SWEDEN, DENMARK HANOVER, GERMANY, NETHERLANDS, &c. BY WILLIAM RAE WILSON, Es2. F.S.A. AUTHOR OF TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND THE HOLY LAND. ILLUSTRATED BY ENGRAVINGS. LONDON: PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, REES, ORME, BROWN, AND GREEN, PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1826. London: Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square. TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUKE OF YORK AND ALBANY, tSs-c. §c. §c. SIR, HAVING paid some attention to the government and political institutions of the countries forming the subject of the volume which I have now the honour to present to Your Royal Highness, I venture to express a hope that it will not be found altogether unworthy of your notice. Your attachment to our own noble and excellent constitution, which must ever endear your name to every true patriot and well-wisher to his country, has induced me to offer this token of the high respect I entertain for the character of your Royal Highness, in the hope that you will be interested in seeing other states adopting nearly similar prina DEDICATION.

IV ciples, — principles which, while they form the safeguard of the subject, shed a moral dignity around the monarch, which despotism must ever remain an utter stranger to. The great interests of humanity and justice have, on all occasions, found a warm advocate in your bosom, and will not permit you to be an unconcerned spectator of whatever may have for its object the welfare of mankind, the extension of liberal and humanizing opinions, the prosperity both of rulers and their subjects. In the following pages your Royal Highness will find sketched the characters of individuals who stand as eminent for their patriotic virtues, as for their exalted rank ; and no one, I am sure, is either more competent to appreciate, or will be more ready to admire and to sympathise with such illustrious examples, than yourself. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your Royal Highness's most faithful and devoted humble servant, WILLIAM RAE WILSON.

Preface

. While the scientific traveller is laudably en gaged in exploring unknown regions, and in describing their moral and natural phenomena , in gratifying the innate curiosity which prompts us to take an interest in whatever concerns our globe and its inhabitants ; it is, perhaps, hardly a less profitable or less interesting occupation to study the manners, the political institutions, and the national power of countries, which, as being less remote, and as forming a portion of the great European family, are more intimately connected with our own, either by rivalry or friendship. It was with the latter purpose that I was induced to direct my attention to Norway, Sweden, and Denmark, as a portion of the continent comparatively little known to my countrymen ; although there is much, both in their natural scenery and in the character of their inhabitants, to render them congenial to Englishmen : and whether I have succeeded or VI preface. not, in collecting information for others, I shall never regret having visited countries where I found so much to admire in almost every respect, and which is consolatory and gratifying to the philanthropist.

That man's patriotism must be of a very questionable species who can behold, without sympathy, nations emulating our own in the domestic and humanizing virtues, in the mild and equitable spirit of their laws, in moral character, and in benevolent institutions. It is truly cheering to perceive that we have rivals in both public and private felicity, to whom we may cordially hold out the hand of brotherly affection. To know this will but excite a generous emulation, and stimulate to greater exertion, on our part, in the cause of those virtues which ennoble nations far above wealth and political power. In the Swedish character, I can confidently aver, that there is much to admire, and worthy of imitation. In their monarch we behold a singular example of one called to that high station by the voice of the people ; and proving himself worthy of their choice, both by the moderation with which he bears his high fortune, and by the public and private virtues which he exhibits.

The welfare of his subjects appears to be the chief object of the ambition of Charles John, who has given a striking proof of the real elevation of his mind, by the manly nobleness of his conduct. Far from following the example of Napoleon, who, like himself, a soldier of fortune, rose to sway the destiny of millions, till his reckless and insatiable avarice of empire precipitated him from his giddy

PREFACE.

. VII eminence, this monarch may justly be styled the model of a patriot king. Nor can we refuse the tribute of our admiration either to the amiable sovereign of Denmark, or to the brave and virtuous people whom he governs. I would, also, call the attention of my fellow countrymen to both Sweden and Denmark, as highly deserving to be visited, presenting much that is worthy of their study and observation, and as affording much to delight the lover of romantic and picturesque scenery, — many of the most beautiful features of nature on the grandest scale. It merely remains for me to say a few words respecting the tone of my observations ; for to some it may appear that I have indulged more than was necessary in moral and religious reflection, but I trust that the generality of my readers will hardly impute this to me as a fault.

Each traveller has some favourite object which engages his attention ; and mine, it will be seen, was directed, in a great degree, to inquiry into whatever was connected with the state of religious feeling and worship in the countries through which I travelled; and although I must confess that I saw some things to reprobate in this respect, I also observed much to commend. Although, too, such subjects will not render my book more attractive to those who seek almost any kind of instruction save that which pertains to religion, I am confident that this circumstance will not operate to its disadvantage with a large class of my countrymen. preface. In the Appendix, among other matters, will be found some important, and, I hope, not uninteresting documents, relative to the political constitutions of the countries which form the subject of this volume.

I have likewise omitted no opportunity of giving such statistical information as it was in my power to collect, from individuals well qualified to furnish me with accurate details of this nature. In this respect it has been my uniform endeavour to be as accurate as possible, and I hope, there fore, that they may have some claim on public attention. CONTENTS. CHAP. I. Object of the journey Letters of recommendation. — Passport. — Departure. — Remarks on travelling. — Spring. — Reflections. — King Charles's restoration. — Rejoicings.— Harwich. — Improvements there. — Custom-house regulations. — Embarkation. — Observations on leaving our native land. — Passengers prohibited from carrying sealed letters. — Voyage across the North Sea. — Decorum of crew on Sunday Mackerel fleet. — Weather. — Dogger Bank Sea-sickness Want of light-houses in Jutland. — Hints to Danish government on this subject Appearance of that ■coast. — The Scaw. — Swedish coast. — Sun-set at sea. — Reading at midnight. — Reflections. — Castle of Elfsburg. — Salutes Views — Arrival Landing at Gothenburg. — Hotel, &c — - Page 1 CHAP. II.

Etymology of Sweden. — Permis de sejour. — Founder of Gothenburg. — General appearance of it. — English residents — Fires. — Improvements in the mode of building Watchmen. — Houses. — Furniture, — Shops — Streets. — a CONTENTS. X Public buildings.*— Barracks. — Pay of soldiers. — Religi ous worship. — Clergy. — Churches. — Town Council. — Law of evidence. — Education.— Schools. — Reflections.— Provision for the poor. — Mason's lodge. — Amusements. — Theatres Walks. — Money. — Carriages. — Rye Cakes. — Water. — Hotel. — Beds. — Hospitality. — Dinners. — Baptisms, and Marriage Ceremonies. — Funerals. — Reflec tion on leaving our ashes in a foreign land Manners of the Swedes. — Complexion. — Dress. — Gothenburg saved by Gustavus III. — Conduct of the English minister on that occasion. — Trade with India. — East India Company. — Herring fishery. — Whale fishery. — Other sources of prosperity. — Newspapers. — One regulation of police disap proved. — Piracy and murder Mode of execution Superstition as to dogs and cats Taxes Restrictions on dresses of servants. — Orders of merit extending to merchants Climate. — Births and deaths English and Swedish languages Conclusion. - - Page 19 CHAP. III.

Useful hints to travellers. — Preparations for departure Forbud. — Receiving official writing authorising horses to be let. — Leave Gothenburg. — Old city. — Navigation of the Gotha. — Roads made by peasants Their state. — Regulations. — Milestones. — Post-house regulations. — Dag-book. — Beneficial effects to be derived by travellers if a similar plan was introduced into England. — Snow Ploughs. — Description. — Views of the country. — - Lilla Edet.' — Lake Trehdnning. — Fences. — Village tribunal. — Description of it. — Arrival at Trollhatta. — Works Defects of swaddling infants. — Want of churches. — Gothic club Game Houses River Falls of the Gotha Their grandeur Mills on the river Quantity of plank cut Projected canal Departure from this place Nij Bro Curious rencontre Wenesburg Hospital. — An English inn Mora Bernd and his wife British sympathies Ball-room School on the British system. — Harbour Extent of lake. — Light-houses Leave CONTENTS.

XI Wenesburg. — Rugged scenery — Udivœlla Scenery. — Herrstadt Lake and town of Ibistrum. — Soartelsburg. — Peasantry Horses Steeples Hede Skattered. Vick. — Odours and customs. — Marked honesty of the Forbuds Lake Strom Hogdale. — Oxen Harrows. — Road cut through rock. — Swinbro. — Enter Norway. — Remarks on the peasantry. — No beggars. — Swinsund Bridge of boats Union of Norway with Sweden. — Ob servations. — Arrival at Frederickshall. — Harbour. — Castle. - - - - --.:•- Page *4S CHAP. IV. Frederickshall. — Its beautiful situation. — Castle. — Place is like Dover Inn Its construction. — Resembles a convent in Holy Land Description of it. — Landlord. — Passport — - Name of guests inserted in a book. — Remarks. — Form of buildings Building house Accommodation afforded me. — Observations on fortresses in frontier towns. -^ Description of Frederickshall. '-Y. Population Streets.* — Materials that houses are built with. — Rents of houses and shops. — Articles sold manufactured in Britain Prices of provisions and wines. — Value of land. - — One article of household furniture applied for different purposes. — Exportation of wood. — Mayor. — Judges. — Court. — Attorneys Doctors Costume of natives Entertainment of Christian VI. — Age of persons who dined on the occasion. — Observations on longevity. — Effect of temperance. — Jews prohibited. — Slaves condemned for crimes. — Dress. — Number. — Objects of interest about the town.

Description of castle. — * Spot where Charles XII. was killed. — Remarks on his death. — Commander of fortress. Bombardment by the Swedes. — Surrender Reflections. — - Visit to the cataracts on river Titsdale. — Mills for various purposes. — Quick mode of splitting wood into planks.

Ween. — Unrivalled prospect. — Description. — Lake. — Wish of the King to purchase this place Walk along the banks of the river Sublime views. — House of Mr. Tank described. — Family burying-ground in his garden. — Exa CONTENTS. planation of the different monies in Norway Preparation for departure Post-horses. — Price of hiring Passport examined Forbud dispatched State of roads Gus land Civility of the peasantry Gates at intervals across the road Farm-houses, and palings inclosing the fields, de scribed State of vegetation Snow ploughs. — Falls of Halslund River Stauson. — Damage to carriage Tim ber floated here from the falls Board with rate of fares for passengers and carriages Lake Tunavan. — Harelstad. — Horses described, and how fed. — Lake Vista. — Industry of the female peasantry. — No gardens attached to cottages. — Dresses of natives described. — Caralshuset. — River Ogoselva Wood floating. — State of thermometer View of the sea Delinger Moss Place for exe cuting criminals. — Description of exposure of dismembered bodies. — Reflections. — Summer. — Rssgaadad. — Post boy carrying letters. — Description of road. — Skredsjoir der Decoration of poles on account of summer. — Mode of building the post-house here. — Description of sunset, and various objects on the road. — Description of the carts of this country Dress of the male peasantry Sufficient light afforded to read at midnight. — Anecdote of the Danish monarch supping at this time without candle-light. — Arrival at Christiana Inhabitants resuming their la bours of the day at one o'clock in the morning. — Number of miles travelled in one day Inn. - - Page 82 CHAP. V. Christiania. — Ancient town Situation of modern Harbour Population Principal streets and buildings Mode of building houses Cisterns Inns Apartments. — Dress of domestics Fortress Sieges State of fortifications. — Ramparts Galley slaves Cathedral. — Bishop and revenue. — Store-houses at the harbour Shops Jews. — University. — Description of branches of education taught. — Salaries of Professors. — Observatory. — Public schools. — Trade Exports. — Fishing. — Magistrates. — Courts of law. — House of correction, and CONTENTS.

XIII punishment of criminals. — House of the governor. — Watchmen in the streets, and on the steeples The town's arms. — Floating bath. — Places of amusement. — News papers Rate of living. — Servants wages. — Carriages. — The bread used Military and their dress described Their total amount in Norway. — Naval force. — National Diet, or Norwegian parliament. — Description of place where it is held Painting representing the coronation. — Formal parties at entertainments. — Music. — Norwegian supper described. — Remarks. — Hospitality of natives. — Their general appearance and dress. — Cathedral. — Service. — Communion Sabbath day. — Burying ground. — Botani cal garden. — Plants. — View of country from this spot. — Rejoicings on Midsummer-day described. — Funeral Commerce and trade of Christiania. — Hints to English government. — Bargains between merchants and farmers who sell wood. — Celebration of the marriage of James VI. of Scotland, with the Princess Ann here Character of the Norwegians Their ingenuity Travelling in the country. — Expence Proper season. — Winter. — Extent of Nor way. — Revenue. — Expenditure. — Military and naval force. — Mountains. — Observations. — Principal lakes. — Rivers. — Waterfalls. — Extent of a mile in yards, English measurement. — Colour of the marbles of the country Battle fought. — Loss of the Scots Inscription to mark the event. — Recommendation to missionary societies.

Page 104- CHAP. VI.

Departure from Christiania. — Dalecarlians. — Grorud.— Lake Agurn. — River Lersum. — Ferry. — Floats of wood. — Skirimstad. — Moe. — Industry of peasants. — Holen. — Milestones. — Forest burned down. — Rivers Varmson and Onsuna Ferry on a raft. — Raaholdt. — River Glomen.— Ferry. — Ous. — Haaralstad. — Kongswinger — Castle. — a3 CONTENT'S. XIV Ferry. — Aabogan Marriages Mitskong. — Church, the last in Norway in this direction. — Remarks on the interment of the dead. — Bad horses. — Custom-house. — Heavy duty on Carriages not built in Norway and Sweden Morass. — Haga The first Swedish church here.— Roofs of houses. — Departure Battery erected by Swedes Lakes Bu, Aski, and Flaga.— Stroud. — Hogvatta. — Lakes Seve and Werner. — Wooden booths used at fairs. — Leerholt Travelling through forests — Karmaness. —Ferry. — Strand. — Female ostlers Lake Sevan Hogbo. — Description of post-house Dress of countrymen Farmer's dress like carpenters. — Lakes Brod and Lac Presthoe River Freck Rapid falls and mills. — Lake Nadhu liber. — Grava River Clara, — Carlstad Population Cathe dral Bishop's revenue Bible Society House for the indigent of both sexes Professors Freemasons Ma gistrates and Police. — Shock of an earthquake felt here. — Politeness of inhabitants to each other. — Visit to Diafoss, on the Clara Cataracts. — Saw-mills of Messrs. Dicksons Salmon, mode of catching, &c. — Quantity of wood cut an nually Steam vessel on river Clara. — Departure. — River Werner Peasants Spanga Lake Tankin. — Rutsberg. — Lake Ulnsweter — Chri6tianmark Gartsberg. — Horses. — Vahl. — Saw-mills. — Lake Skaggen. — Utorp, and its picturesque appearance. — Anecdote of ringing the church bell. — Post-house described. — Lake Bejerker. — Baron Foke's house Iron manufactures. — Description of pea sants' houses on the road Storborsbada. — Flag-staffs at the gables of houses State of agriculture. — Men carry large cudgels Vinterosesana Arrival at Orebro Bag gage searched. — Description of town, and building of houses. — Population Governor's house, which contains a prison Women employed in weaving on looms Gothic church described Meeting of the Swedish Diet within its walls Robes of the clergy Monuments Steeple of this church Inscription Post-house Church-yard Leaving Orebro. — Observations on post-horses. — State of the roads. — Hjelmar Houses occupied by military an nounced by boards in front of them A funeral described. — Glenshammon Strawberries offered by the peasants Description of carts and harness of horses.

River Fretund. CONTENTS. XV — Baron Lillihon's house. — Fellingsbro, where com mences the province of Westmanland Arrival at Ar boga. - - - - Page 13*1 CHAP. VII. Arboga. — Canal Graves. — Public fair — Prison. — Anecdote of a peasant, and uproar in consequence Miserable inn Bierke. — Koping. — Lacly riding astride on horseback. — Women weaving on looms. — Poor's box River Svarto. — Milestones. — Westeros. — House of governor, containing a prison. — Rejoicings on event of Prince Oscar's marriage. — Cathedral Females ploughing. — Enormous pieces of rocks scattered. — Nevura. — Enkoping. — Bad horses. — Potatoe plant little cultivated. — Hops planted. — Listena. — Lake Maler. — Upsala University. — Magistrates. — Cathedral. — Monuments. — Linnæus Athletic •exercises. — Botanical garden — Menagerie and green-house. — Hospitals for the poor and lunaties Collection of minerals. — Specimens of gold and silver ore of Sweden Models of machinery Magnificent palace. — Tumuli Ancient sepulchres of the kings. ; — Lake Danamora. — Ugglesta — Osterby Visit to the mines. — The operations carried on. — Number of persons employed. — Steam-engine, and the expence of it. — Box for charity to those wounded in the mines. — Return to Osterby. — Rope-work Return to Upsala. — Malar. — Elsicke. — Form of boat Stokloster.

Mansion of the Brahes. — Furniture. — Armoury. — Library. — Walks Chapel Family vault. — Grandeur of the scenery around Extraordinary mode of dressing infants State of roads Fields under crops Rosenberg, a summer palace of the King. — Admiral's hall. — Paintings. Grounds. — Military met upon the road, returning from srand review on occasion of the Prince's marriage. — Machine o *-* for punishment of culprits. — Proceed to the capital Palace at Haga Arrival at Stockholm. - Page 172 aJ CONTENTS. XVI CHAP. VIII.

Stockholm. — Its picturesque situation. — Palace. — Clothes of Charles XII. on his fall at Frederickshall. — Costume of Gustavus III. when assassinated Execution of the assassin. — Royal chapel State chamber. — Hall of antiquities Public library Enormous Bible that belonged to Luther.— King's stables. — Church of Ridderholm. — Arms of Buonaparte as Knight of the Seraphim National religion Toleration Cathedral Anecdote of a culprit brought into church and exhorted Fitting up of the church on occasion of Prince Oscar's marriage Church of Christina Maria Senate House Chamber of Privy Council Diet described Statue of Gustavus Vasa Mint — Opera House. — Minor Theatre Observatory Charitable institutions Infirmary Schools. — Public bank Bible society. — Lottery Public baths. — Newspapers. — Royal academy. — House of correction. — Bazaars. — Courts of justice. — Want of hotels. — Saalskapt and Lilla Saalskapet. — Streets. — Hackney coaches. — Costume of females. — Clergy and lower orders. — Provisions. — Natives of Dalecarlia. — Dress of representatives of peasants to the Diet. — Houses Regret of no English church being established here Wages of servants, <&c Medical persons. — Revenue of the King and his son Ministers Orders of knighthood. — Prohibition of smoking within the barriers.

Suicide Private libraries Prisons Military Dress. — Ways and means of the State Taxes. — Morals Author's Presentation to the King by Lord Bloomfield Audience explained Description of his Majesty British Minister His high popularity. - Page 215 CHAP. IX. History of the revolution of 1809. — Enmity of Gustavus Adolphus against France Alliance with Russia Peace of Tilsit. — Gustavus returns orders conferred on him, to Em- CONTENTS. XVII peror of Russia and King of Prussia. — Hostilities against France. — Discontent in Sweden. — Movements of the Swedish army Assembly of the guards Baron d'Aleve rantz proclaiming himself general, fails in his attempt.

King's abdication. — Assembly of the states, and their pro ceedings. — His descendants excluded from the throne. — His uncle proclaimed. — Marshal Bernadotte appointed Crown Prince. — His history. — Leaves France. — Met by the ecclesiastics at Elsineur. — Arrival in the capital. — His address to the authorities. — Marriage. — Birth of Prince. — King invested him with supreme authority. — Laws against luxury. — Address to the French army. — Sove reigns' entry into Paris. — Death of the King. — Oath of fidelity to the Crown Prince as his successor. — Coronation. — Beneficial effects to the country Military college Major Doblen's monument Palace of Haga. — Drottning holm. — Curiosities* — Paintings. — Rural theatre. — Pa laces of Rosenberg and Gripsholm. — Bellevue and Ullricks dal Palace of Rosenthal. — Place of execution — Post office regulations Public promenades Mineral springs. — Commerce and navigation. — Swedish language.— Troops. • — Navy Winter amusements, &c. - Page 276 CHAP. X. Departure from the capital Fittja. — Sodertelje Bilkrog, Birds in Sweden and Norway Swarsbro Lake Runvikar. — Nykoping. — Lake Staneshue. — Krokek. — Stora.

Aby Norkoping Conflagration Gustavus Adolphus crowned here Kumla Linkoping Bankeberg. Molby. — Ostad Osjo. — Kolkaberg Lake Grenna. Sublime scenery Iionkoping Mountain of Talberg. Mines Barnerp Skillingeryd — River Laya Lake Viusten Jouno Mode of training shepherds' dogs. — Lake Fere Ljungby The lure, or shepherd's trumpet. — Bears. — Ruse Traheryd. — Lake Laga. — Makaryd. — Feting — Fagerhult Lake Oshunga Okeljunga. — Osterljugby River Rune Astorp Helsingborg. — Environs Island of Huen. — Tycho Brahe. — Observations CONTENTS. XVIII on the whole journey through Sweden and Norway Arrival at Elsineur. — Castle of Cronberg. — Queen of Den mark Chapel Scene of Shakspeare's Hamlet British Consul Fredensborg Palace. — Fredericksberg Castle. — Tumuli. — Monument of Count Bernstoff. — Arrival at Copenhagen. - Page 322 CHAP. XL Copenhagen Its origin Description. — Population. — Jews Dreadful conflagrations Means adopted against fires Public library destroyed. — Palace of Christianborg •consumed Equestrian statue of Christian V British minister's house Palace of Charlottenborg. — Academy of Painting Principal streets. — Magnificent statue of Frederick V. — Place of Amalienborg. — Palace of Prince Christian New palace. — Houses. — Streets. — Shops. — Attention of government to the accommodation of seamen. — Hackney coaches and carts. — Lamps High tribune. — Town-house. — Public offices. — Fountain. — Prison. — Police. — Gates of city Watchmen. — Common sewers. — Observatory. — Library Museum Plan adopted to discover antiquities Royal Exchange Royal Museum. — Anecdote of a pedestrian. — British system of education adopted Number of schools Public mint.

Page 379 CHAP. XII. Making of anchors Iron knees, an improvement adopted in ship-building Models of vessels Reading rooms Harmoniske Selskab, or club Forms of entrance. Newspapers — Churches — The Frue Kirke Its demolition from bombardment of the British. — No English or Scots church. — Reformation. — Established religion French Protestant church. — Dress of clergymen. — Confirmation of two young CONTENTS. XIX ladies described. — Marriage forms, &c The Sabbath Post-office. — Discovery of ancient vaults in the court yard. — Letter-carriers. — Freemasons. — Mails, departure and arrival. — Bonehouse, or place where dead bodies are .exposed to be owned. — Palace of Rosenberg. — High Court of Appeal Theatre Prices. — Regulations Singular mode observed on occasion of a new piece performed. — Minor theatre. — Popular amusement of shooting at a bird. . — - Similar amusement in Scotland. - Page 403 CHAP. XIII.

Ramparts of city. — Public walks. — Prison where Struensee and Brandt were confined Scandalous conduct of Juliana, the king's stepmother, towards them, and her barbarous treatment of Caroline Matilda State prisoners Other criminals. — Soldiers taught swimming. — Harbour. — Holms, New and Old. — Military force Commerce Exports and imports for two years. — Misunderstanding between England and Denmark. — Hospitals. — Case of a Jewess who swallowed some hundred needles. — Fire corps. — No beggars. — Laws in general. — Moderation of the government. — British residents. — Jews. — Dress of the Danes. — Costume of the peasantry. — Island of Amager- — Supreme ecclesiastics of Denmark. — Servants' wages. — Provisions. — Bishop of Zealand. — Taxes. — Orders of merit in Denmark. .... Page 424 CHAP. XIV.

Facility of access, on the part of the subjects, to present petitions to the king His wisdom and humanity Ministers. — Author's introduction to his majesty. — Conversation. . — Description of his person Double alliance with the British throne. — History of constitution of Denmark XX CONTENTS. King absolute de jure, but not de facto Humility of the sovereign. — Simplicity of the Danish court. — Unshaken loyalty of the Danes. — Palace of Fredericksborg. — Royal aquatic excursions. — Places of interment. — The " Assist ance Ground," near the city, described. — Monuments, &c. — Royal chapel The service and ceremonies before the Royal Family. — Literary attainments of her majesty. — Obelisk to the memory of those who fell at bombardment of city. — Visit to Roeskilde, ancient capital of the kingdom Roads Peasants Costume Town Cathe dral. — Royal vaults and monuments. — Hospital for luna tics. — Paper manufactory. — Return to Copenhagen Column in memory of Christian VIL — Hotel. — Preparation for departing from capital. — Authority of landlord indis pensible to obtain passport. — Form of it. — Opinion entertained by the author of the King. - - Page 462 CHAP. XV.

Departure from Copenhagen — Steam-boat Coast Wordingborg Gooldskiff. — Danger in a storm Arrival at Kiel Females employed in rowing boats Palace University. — Public baths and gardens. — Treaty of peace between Denmark and Sweden signed here Postmaster Extraordinary refusal of horses Departure. New Munster. — Branstadt Absburg. Hamburg Constitution Senate Ecclesiastical and military establishments Population, buildings, &c. — Altona. Public gardens Klopstock. — Harburg Lunenberg Heath. — Zell Palace Church Monument to officers who fell at Waterloo Arrival at Hanover Palace of the Duke of Cambridge. — Ancient palace. — Armoury Mint. — Herrenhausen. — Tiedenwizen. Durshelf. Einbeck Population Manufactures. — Saltershel Nordheim. — Gottingen. — Dransfeld. — Munden Hesse Cassel. — Williamshohe. — Holdstarf. _ Harburg. — Giessen. — Friedberg — Frankfort. _ Gustavus ex-king of Swe- CONTENTS.

XXI den. — Mentz. — Voyage down the Rhine. — Bingley. St. Goar. — Coblentz. — Fortress of Ehrenbreitstein Horrors of its siege - Page 481 CHAP. XVI. Departure from Coblentz. — Monuments to Generals Marceau and Hoche Adernach Beringa. — Bonn. — Palace. — Cologne. — Rubens' house Fortifications. — Cathedral. — The Rhine. — Juliers. — Aix-la-Chapelle. — Annoyance from beggars. — Liege. — Cathedral. — Fortifications. — Arrival at Brussels Public buildings. — Mint. — Ramparts Visit to Waterloo Field described as seen by Author soon after the action. — Letters found on the occasion. — Hougomont. — Haye Sainte. — Monuments. — Church. — Carriage of Buonaparte, captured on the field. — Offer of the Author to purchase it. — Description. — That vehicle still in the country. — Enghien. — Lisle. — Monument to the Due de Berri Church of Eterville Douay. — Universities. — Recent discoveries of libraries concealed at Revolution. — English mechanics here. — Impious placard. — Cambray. — Monument to Fenelon Saint Quintin. — Arrival at Paris Bologne English church. — Arrival at Dover. - - Page 522

Appendix

. No. I. — Day-Book, kept at the inn or post-house of ■, in the provincial government of and the district of for the month of *, in the year . From the inn are to be furnished horses, and from the reserve farms (farms under obligation to furnish a certain number of horses for the accommodation of travellers), horses for travelling to the following inns being miles lo each of the inns or post-houses. Page

APPENDIX.

. No. II. — Constitution of Norway. - - - Page [5] No. Ill National Norwegian Air. - - - [21] No. IV. — Catalogue of Professors at the University of Upsala. [26] No. V Form of Government adopted by the King and the Estates of the Swedish Realm, at Stockholm, on the 6th of June, 1809 ; together with the Alterations afterwards introduced. -.---- [33] No. VI Professors at the University of Christiana, in Norway. ....... [50] No. VII. Value of Exports from Sweden to Great Britain. [53] No. VIII. — Instructions from Marshal Bernadotte, Crown Prince of Sweden, to Baron Cederhjelm, respecting the Education of his Son, Prince Oscar. - [547] No. IX. — Explanation of the Swedish Alphabet. [58] No. X. — Swedish Measurements. ... [64.] No. XI. Printed Paper presented to Travellers by the Police, on their Arrival at Stockholm. - - ibid.