Travels in Egypt and the Holy Land

Front matter

x; „, ... fo/v TRAVELS IX EGYPT AND THE HOLY LAND. THE SECOND EDITION: WITH % gournep THROUGH TURKEY, GREECE, THE IONIAN ISLES, SICILY, SPAIN, &c. By WILLIAM RAE WILSON, Esq. F.A.S. EMBELLISHED WITH THIRTEEN ENGRAVINGS. LONDON: PRINTED FOR LONGMAN, HURST, REES, ORME, BROWN, AND GREEN, PATERNOSTEB-B.OW. 1824. London : Printed by A. & R. Spottiswoode, New-Street- Square. TO HER ROYAL HIGHNESS MARIA LOUISA VICTORIA of LEINENGEN, DUCHESS of KENT and STRATHEARN, THESE TRAVELS; WHICH WERE HIGHLY PROMOTED BY HER LATE ILLUSTRIOUS CONSORT Edward Duke op Kent and Strathearn, Earl of Dublin, meld-mabshall of his majesty's forces, k.g. g.c. b.k. s.p. GOVERNOR OF GIBRALTAR, AND COLONEL OF THE ROYAL SCOTS REGIMENT OF FOOT, WHOSE DEATH, A3 AN ADVOCATE OF SUFFERING HUMANITY, WILL BE LAMENTED, AND HIS MEMORY REVERED, BY EVERY BENEFACTOR OF MANKIND; IS DEDICATED, WITH HER ROYAL HIGHNESS's PERMISSION, BY HER DEVOTED, AND FAITHFUL SERVANT, WILLIAM RAE WILSON. A

Introduction

. 1 he favourable reception which the first edition of these Travels, so far as regards Egypt and the Holy Land, received from the public, by its rapid sale, has encouraged the Author to offer a second. This has afforded him an opportunity of not only introducing additional information, but of inserting an account of the whole journey through other countries, from his departure until his return to Great Britain. The remarkable state of the Jews, who are not collected in a body, or under any proper form of government, but are dispersed throughout the world, retaining all the characteristics of a peculiar people, and yet unmixed with those nations among whom they sojourn, bears most striking testimony to the accomplishment of the truth of prophecy in the New Testament, while the actual existence at the present day of many customs described in the Old may be considered as a species of monu mental evidence to the general veracity of the whole of the Sacred Volume. This opinion I am a VI

INTRODUCTION.

. strongly disposed to entertain, since, repeatedly in the course of travelling over the Holy Land, I felt as if I was an actual witness to some of the most impressive incidents recorded in the Book of In spiration, so distinctly were events brought before me by the living manners and usages of the pre sent inhabitants, with that wonderful accuracy which still renders Biblical descriptions mirrors, as it were, of the scenery and customs of this most interesting portion of the globe. Although it is not under an apprehension that I shall be able to add any thing of importance to the information contained in the works of those travellers who have visited this distinguished region, that I arrange into the shape of a narrative the notes and memoranda of a long and perilous journey, yet it is in the expectation of contributing something, which may have the effect of disposing sceptics and unbelievers to express surprise that objects of such antiquity as those customs de scribed in this sacred fountain of truth, should have been protected and preserved from the changes produced by the lapse of time and the vicissitudes of human affairs, as if they had been sustained in their original state to confirm to all ages, the authenticity of that record which they are so wonderfully calculated to illustrate.

This leads me to presume that " the true and faithful" may be otherwise affected. This peculiar class of persons, in all probability Uke myself, instead of expressing emotions of surprise, will, on the contrary, feel the glow of a more exalted sen-

INTRODUCTION.

. VII timent in their souls, accompanied with reverence and delight, when they discover the mute things of those hallowed scenes, and the mountain and cavern, giving testimony to that trust which may be most confidently reposed in the sacred promises of the Eternal Jehovah. To three descriptions of persons I shall beg leave to address my sentiments, namely, to the believer, the sceptic, and the scientific. Of the sceptic, I only presume to request a patient and attentive hearing ; and although I cannot express a confident hope that he will sym pathise in that devotional feeling with which I was impressed, yet since he professes to entertain some degree of respect for truth, he may, perhaps, in the simplicity of my statements, discover circum stances which, if he denies the particular inference which I deduce from them, he must at least be obliged to acknowledge it as remarkable in its nature.

From the former I claim more regard, since I call on him to contemplate and admire the astonishing wisdom which, with such materials as the manners, localities, and customs of countries, which, in general, have undergone such a variety of changes, and passed under the dominion of so many masters, has contributed, as it were, to con stitute a durable monument, so as to corroborate that glorious revelation which has been unfolded of its own eternal and unchangeable nature. Lastly, from the scientific, I can only flatter myself with the expectation of obtaining some degree of indula 4>

INTRODUCTION.

. ence, having never appeared before the Public as a writer. I trust the reader will do me the justice to believe it never entered into my contemplation, at any time during the journey, to send forth to the world a publication of this nature, otherwise 1 might have been prompted to prolong my resi dence, with the view of examining more criti cally these countries, with their peculiar customs. He will, I trust, credit my assertion, that on returning to my native isle, I was strongly urged by many friends, to commit the Travels to writing, under an idea they might remove, in some degree, the opinions entertained by sceptics, as to any cor respondence between the actual situation of the Holy Land and the narrative imparted of it by Scripture. Further, in an age like the present, it might contribute to counteract the poison and blasphemy disseminated in publications, not only with the view of undermining the great and established bulwark of the Christian faith and hope, but to bring the person of my gracious sovereign, his family, and also the government of this country into contempt.

Let it be specifically kept in view, that it forms no part of my pretensions to aspire after literary fame, since that exclusively pertains to genius and talents. I am perfectly aware there exist many inaccuracies ; and although I may be found not to have the pen of a ready writer, " be rude in speech, yet not in knowledge," * I shall wil- * 2 Corinth, xi. 6.

INTRODUCTION.

. IX lingly submit to censure, on the ground of literary deficiencies, on being permitted to enjoy, which I own it is the utmost extent of my ambition to attain, the humble merit of haA'ing viewed all the different objects I have attempted to describe, under the influence of reverential awe, and a serious frame of mind. Should it be found in any part of the present volume that I express myself in warm and, perhaps, rapturous terms, I entreat it may not be placed to the account of superstitious enthusiasm, but from a heartfelt conviction of the importance of the subject, the deep effect produced on my own mind, and an anxiety to press it on those of my fellow creatures, as directly connected with their interests, not only in this life, but in that which is to come. In leaving this volume with the Public, whatever may be their decision, I shall at least, in retire ment, have the consolation to review with feelings of pure delight, the many countries I have visited, especially that of the Blessed Land, and a spectator not altogether indifferent to their customs and localities, rejoicing that an opportunity has been afforded me of claiming at least an additional niche in the page of history, with those who have already appeared, to transmit their observations to future ages, on this interesting region.

On the other hand, should any thing I have ad vanced contribute to show the coincidence of these countries and their manners, as existing at this very hour, with the great fountain of truth ; if the believer's faith is confirmed, the scruples of seep- X

INTRODUCTION.

. tics, and the speculations of visionaries removed, and a blow is struck at those diabolical writings which stalk abroad with gigantic strides, the object whereof is to root out the word of Revelation, al though of sovereign authority, which, as the oldest record in existence, has been, during all ages, the support and consolation of millions of the human race, and is worthy of all possible acceptation, and the glory of the King Eternal is in the slightest de gree promoted, any expenses I may have incurred, and any labour experienced in these long journeys, will be amply compensated, and the object of the present publication fully accomplished. CONTENTS. CHAP. I. Page Departure. — Paris. — Lyons. — Avignon. — Marseilles. — Profanation of the Sabbath. — Embarkation. — Candia. — Coast of Egypt. — Tempest. — Enormous fishes. — Arrival at Alexandria. — Harbour. — Pacha of Egypt. — English Consul. 1 CHAP. II.

Alexandria. — Abolition of the distinction of harbours for the Mahomedans and Christians, by the commander of the British army. — Contrast between the English and French forces. — Exalted opinion entertained of the former by the Egyptians. — Oppressions of the French — Short history of the war. — Revolution. — Mahomed Ali declared pacha, and confirmed by the Porte. — Improvements under his government. — Grand canal from the Nile to Alexandria. — Antient prejudice as to the harbours renewed. — Demand of British Consul that the privileges conceded to Sir John Stuart should be exercised. — Granted. — Important effects to Europeans. — Observations on the plague. — Hospital at Alexandria. — Pacha's fleet. — Languages spoken at Alexandria. ..... 11 CHAP. III. Pompey's pillar. — Courage of a British female in ascending to the top of it. — The two famous obelisks called Cleopatra's needles. — Efforts of the British army to transport one of these to Eng- CONTENTS.

Page 21 38 47 59 69 land. — Subscriptions made with this view, but found inadequate to the sum required. — Mahomed Ali's ship of war, which arrived in London, repaired by English government. — Returns to Egypt with presents from the Prince Regent. — The pacha's liberality in presenting to the prince the obelisk. — Officers despatched to Alexandria, to examine and report on measures to be adopted to remove it. — Opinion of a British admiral. — Pharos. — Alexandrian Library. — Khalis. — Introduction to Mahomed Ali. — Des cription of him, and conversation on the occasion. — War with the sect of Wachabees. — Power and resources. — Popularity. — Laws. .... . . CHAP. IV. Departure- — Journey across the desert. — Wretched hut to repose in. — Aboukir Bay. — Vermin. — Mirage. — Land marks. — Caravanserais. — Scripture application. — Mules. — Dromedaries. — Camels. — Arrival at Rosetta. — Hints to travellers.

CHAP. V. Rosetta. — Population. — Dogs. — Funerals. — School. — Voyage up the Nile. — Pacha's barge. — Women. — Hideous spectacles along the banks of the Nile. — Hints to travellers drinking the waters of it. — Dew. — Arrival at Cairo. — Miserable inn. — Assassination of Kleber. — Punishment of assassin. — Pacha's country house. - - . CHAP. VI. Grand Cairo. — Well of Joseph. — Audience of the minister of the Pacha. — Palace. — Review of the Janissaries. — Mules. Bazaars. — Slave Market. — Reflections. — Diseased eyes of children. — Police. — Baths. — Mosques. — Churches. - . CHAP. VII. The Khalis. — Method of Irrigation.— Description of the island of Roida. — The Mikias or Nilometer. — Place where Moses was found. — Pyramids. — Sphynx, &c. — Observations. CONTENTS. XIII CHAP. VIII. Page Curious mode of hatching chickens. — Marriage procession. — Building of Cairo. — Descending the other branch of the Nile. — Cavalry. — Construction of passage-boat. — Town of Damietta. — English and French consuls. — Author assumes the Turkish costume. — Interview with governor. — Heliopolis. ... ir, CHAP. IX.

Zoan. — Christians' defeat in the holy war. — Civilities at Usbe. — Wretched state of the place. — Bankrupt fugitive. — Voyage to Joppa: — Arrival. — Convent. — English consul. — Dinner of the monks. ... 87 CHAP. X. General reflections on the Holy Land. — Pleasure arising from local circumstances. — Joppa. — Prophet Jonah's Embarkation. — Tabitha. — Vision. — Population. — Flat roofs of houses. — Massacre by order of Buonaparte. — Passport for Jerusalem. 9.-5 CHAP. XI. Journey to Ramah. — Valley of Sharon. — Indisposition. — Views of the country. — Fine convent. — Description of Ramah. — Journey to Jerusalem. — Valley of Jeremiah and Elah. — Spot where David slew Goliah. — Impression on the first view of the Holy City. — Arrival at the convent of Franciscans. - 100 CHAP. XII. Palestine. — Jerusalem. — Situation. — Historical sketch. — Franciscan convent. — Walk round the walls of the city. — Visit to the Mount of Olives. — Shape of the foot of Christ on its summit. — Garden of Gethsemane. — Other sacred places. — Reflections. - * - - - - -111 CONTENTS, XIV Page 120 124 140 153 CHAP. XIII.

Jerusalem continued. — Valley of Jehoshaphat. — Pit of Nehemiah. — Isaiah sawn asunder. — Pool of Siloam. — Place where Judas hanged himself. — Tombs of Zechariah and Absalom. — Antipathy of Jews. — Jealousy of Englishmen in making excavations. — Burying ground of Hebrews. — Anecdote of Sir Sidney Smith. — Insult the author received in his Christian dress. — State of Thermometer. ..... CHAP. XIV. Reflections on the accuracy of Biblical descriptions. — Materials employed in the construction of buildings. — Jerusalem. — Provisions. — Prices. — Money. — Convent. — The ear of a Turk nailed to the door of his shop. — Dress of women. — Governor's wives. — Anecdotes related by an Italian quack. — Brook Cedron. — Fog. — Palace of Pontius Pilate. — Dolorous way. — — Where Jesus was scourged Pool of Bethsaida. — Other sacred places. — Armenian church. — Mount Sion. — Observations. .---..

CHAP. XV. Visits to Bethlehem. — Spot where the Virgin rested. — House of Simeon. — Well where the star appeared to the Magi Birth-place of Christ. — Valley in which the angels announced his nativity. — Convent. — Reception by the monks. — Manger. — Pools of Solomon. — Houses in Bethlehem. — Women hired to mourn over the dead. — Desert of St. John the Baptist. — Return to Jerusalem. - - ... CHAP. XVI. Journey to the Dead Sea. — Preparatory interview with the Governor of Jerusalem for a military escort — Departure. Visit to the Tomb of Lazarus in Bethany. — Dreary Tract through the Mountains. — Reflections on passages of Scripture. Sublime view of Plains of Jericho and Mountains. Arrival at Jericho. — Interview with Governor. — Arab's hut. Dress of Natives. -----.... CONTENTS. XV CHAP. XVII.

P»ge Departure. — Journey along the Plain. — Description. — Jordan. — Dead Sea. — Frightful desolation. — Striking picture of the malediction of Heaven on this country. — Accuracy of Scripture. — Optical deception. — Description of the Sea. — Important discoveries to be expected if boats permitted. — Bathing in the water. — Description. — Bitumen. — Analysis of Water. — Return to Jericho. — Final interview with governor. — Arab's tents. — Return to Jerusalem. 164 CHAP. XVIII. Visit to the Church and Holy Sepulchre. — Reposing during night there. — Present at the procession and devotions of the Latins next morning. — Unhappy contentions between the Latins and Greeks for possession of this church. — Description of it. — Ceremony of creating a knight of the sepulchre — Religious ceremonies. — Ruins of the antient city of Jerusalem. — Tombs of the kings. — Observations. — Hospitality of the Friars. — Hints to missionary institutions. - - - - - 178 CHAP. XIX.

Diploma from the convent. — Departure from Jerusalem. — Arrival at Beer. — Residence of governor. — Ludicrous incident respecting a female Arab. — Dangerous track through the mountains. — Camels. — Observations. — Bethel. — Valley of Samaria. — Well. — Where bones of Joseph deposited. — Arrival at Samaria. — Mountains of Ebal and Gerizim. - . -192 CHAP. XX. Insult offered to the author by the governor of Samaria. — Wretched accommodation. — Departure. — Arrival at Jenini. — Commander here. — Apprehensions of attack from Arabs. — Robbery of friars. — Further escort found necessary on journey. — Plain of Esdraelon. — Observations. — Buonaparte's battle here. — Mount Tabor. — Arrival at Nazareth. — Meeting with the grand Superior from Jerusalem. — His narrative respecting brutal conduct of governor to friars passing through Samaria. — Representation by the author to the governor of Jerusalem by letter. — Return of escort to the city. - CONTENTS.

XVI Page 210 219 224 235 240 CHAP. XXI. Nazareth. — Church. — Picture os Christ. — Sacred objects shown. — Workshop of Joseph. — Chapel. — Where angel saluted Mary, — Hill over which the Jews threatened to throw Christ. — Mary's Well, — Description of convent and Nazareth. — Visit to Nain. — Endor. — Plough of Nazareth. — Soil. — Reflections. — Author challenged by a Mahomedan for wearing the white turban. — Remarks. ------ CHAP. XXII. Journey through Galilee. — Cana. — Well. — Water-pitchers. — Striking coincidence of an event there with Scripture. — Disciples' field. — Blessed mount. — Where miracle performed in feeding a multitude. — Sublime view of the lake of Genesareth. — Observations. — Arrival at the town of Tiberias. — Greek priest. — Lodging in a church . - - - CHAP. XXIII. Tiberias. — Dogs. — Vermin. — Spot where the house of Peter stood. — Lake. — Miracles of Christ. — Tiberias. — Lodging of Greek priest. — Women ornament the eyes with paint. — Governor. — Dress of soldiers. — Jews' synagogue. — Emmaus. — Tombs of the unclean spirits. — Observations. — Ludicrous group of females. — Pens. ....

CHAP. XXIV. Departure from Tiberias. — Tents of Arabs. — Visit to Mount Tabor. — Prospect from its summit. — Places described. — Reflections. — Ruins. — Return to Nazareth. — Egyptian fugitive. CHAP. XXV. Final departure from Nazareth. — Sephoury. — Arrival at Acre. — Horrid cruelties committed by Djezzar, the former pacha. — Nose of his minister cut off. — Murder of wives. — Mutilated objects to be met in streets. — Interview with present pacha's physician. — His recital of barbarities. — Djezzar's death. — Acre. — Convent. — Ruins. — Consuls. — Visit to Mount Carmel. — Where the making of glass first discovered. — Convent on Carmel. — Return to Acre. — Executioner. — Place of decapitation. — Receipt of firman from Constantinople. — Roads from Acre to Jerusalem. --.... CONTENTS. xvii Page CHAP. XXVI.

Departure for Tyre. — Aqueduct near Acre. — Zib. — Promontory. — Cisterns of Solomon. — Arrival at Tyre. — Siege by Alexander. — Ruins. — Former splendour contrasted with its present desolation. — Reflections on pride of the opulent merchant. — Supper of the Archbishop of Tyre. — Accommodation at his house. 251 CHAP. XXVII. Departure from Tyre. — Zarepta. — Arrival at Sidon. — Former importance of it. — Arts and sciences. — Invention of the alphabet and arithmetic. — Present state of it. — Trade. — French consul. — Poor convent. — Correspondence with Lady Hester Stanhope. — Her politeness. — General character. - 261 CHAP. XXVIII. Departure from Sidon. — Lady Stanhope's stud. — Description. — Journey through the mountains. — Convent ofSt.Salvadore. — Romantic situation. — Reflections. — Monks' supper. — Author taken for a medical person. — Anecdote of an Arab blind from birth wishing to be restored to sight. — Description of Arabs' dresses. ....... 269 CHAP. XXIX.

Departure from Arab's hut. — Journey over Mount Lebanon. — Danger in passing through the snow.— Descending to the vale of Aven. — Miserable khan. — Journey through the mountains. — Damascus. — Impressions on the first view of it. — ■ Arrival. — Firman treated contemptuously at the gate. — Remarks. — Franciscan convent. — Proof of the importance of patent letter from Rome. — Observations. ..... 276 CHAP. XXX. City of Damascus. — Population. — Materials of buildings. — Effect produced by the seasons. — Bazaars. — Pilgrims for Mecca. — Cafe's. — Sacred places alluded to in Scripture. — Interview with minister and pacha. — Result. — Risk of adopting Christian dress at Damascus. — Danger of proceeding to Palmyra. — Hints to travellers. ...... 285 a CONTENTS. Page CHAP. XXXI. Departure from Damascus. — Zachale. — Baalbeck. — Temple of the sun. — Description of its original grandeur. — Present state of the town and ruins. — Population. — Frightful storm. — Return to Zachale. — Operations on the roofs of houses in consequence of rain. — Inhabitants. — Ancient customs. — Scripture references. — Plough. .... 301 CHAP. XXXII.

Final departure from Zachale. — Crossing the mountains. — Wretched khan. — View of Bayreuth from an eminence. — Arrival. — Druses. — Description of the tribe. — Hints to missionaries. — Opinions entertained by Druses of soul after death. — The calf an object of idolatrous worship in their temples. — Prince of the mountains. — Bayreuth. — Population. — English consul. — Convent. — Tombs. — Field of St. George. — Complaint of monks receiving no pecuniary assistance from France. — Observations. — Reflections on leaving Holy Land. - 314 CHAP. XXXIII. Departure from Bayreuth. — Cyprus. — Confirmation of Druses worshipping the calf. — Atrocities of Buonaparte. — Larnica. Soil. — Consuls. — Salt lakes. — Visit to the capital. — Fortifications. — Dying Coins. — Watering vineyards. — Locusts. — Tyranny of the Turks over the Greeks. — Importance of the island to Britain. — Expediency of establishing a government for Greeks. — Return to Larnica. — Strange birth by a Cyprian woman. - 322 CHAP. XXXIV.

Departure from Cyprus. — Voyage. — Paphos. — Preaching of St. Paul. — Knights. — Christians. — Apostle Paul's visit. — Samos. — Pythagoras. — Rhodes. — Description. — Alarm for the plague. — Disembarkation. — Patmos. — Arrival at Sedequi. Dutch consul. — Arrival at Smyrna. — Pestilence. — Leper. Quarantine. — Observations. . . _ ,__ CHAP. XXXV. The plague. — Departure for Ephesus. — Journey Church of St. John. — Village. — Aqueduct. — Map of Ruins. — Theatre. CONTENTS. XIX Page — Temple of Diana. — Her statue discovered. — Apostle Paul. — Soil. — Plough. — Coins. — Return to Smyrna. — Philadel phia and Laodicea. ...... 343 CHAP. XXXVI. Smyrna. — Plague. — Description. — City port. — Population. — Bible Society. — British system of education. — Birth-day of George the Third. — English consul. — Casino. — Villas. — Remarkable fact of sacrifice of a Greek christian. — Decapitation of Pachaley. — Stratagem. — Remarks on capital punishments. 549 CHAP. XXXVII.

Departure from Smyrna. — Mytelene. — Tenedos. — Troy. — Dardanelles. — Constantinople. — Hippodrome. — Burned Pillar. — Menagerie. — Dock yard and navy. — Mint. — Visit to the interior of the mosques with the British ambassador. — Church of St. Sophia. — Religious tenets of the Mahomedans. — Procession of Grand Signior to mosque. — Janissaries. — Bosphorus. — Streets of the capital. — Barber's shop. — Churchyard. — Palace of the English ambassador. — Popularity of Sir Robert Liston. — Lady W. Montague. — Dervishes. — Representation of ambassador to the Porte, of the conduct of the governor of Samaria. ....... 35s CHAP. XXXVIII. Departure from Constantinople. — Arrival at Hydra.— Description of Athens. — Hill of Mars. — Apostle Paul. — Cattle treading out Corn. — Convent. — Earthen vessels found. — Embarkation. — Corinth. — Description. — Cradle. — Bibles. — Embarkation. — Patras. — Church of Saint Andrew. — Dreadful punishment of a Turk. — Embarkation. — Cephalonia. — Corfu. ~Sail for Malta. - - - * - -375 CHAP. XXXIX.

Malta. — Description. — Apostle Paul. — Bay under his name . — Mode adopted by criminals to insure absolution from sin. — Soil of island. — Fruits. — Harbour of La Vallett. — Description of houses. — Knights. — Palace. — Governor's country house. — Laws. — Criminals. — Church of St. John. — Tomb of Sir Ralph Abercombie. — Inscription. - 382 a XX CONTENTS. Page CHAP. XL. Passport. — Departure for Syracuse.— Arrival.— Apostle Paul's visit to this place. — Harbour. — Quarantine. — Sicilian baron. Disembarkation. — Antient city. — Amphitheatre. — Ear of Dionysius. — Church of St. John. — Catacombs. — Fountain of Arethusa. — Superstition of natives — Inn . — Landlord. — Population. — Britishconsul Embarkation for Messina. — Arrival. — Description. — Persons hired to commit assassination. — Letter of Virgin Mary to inhabitants of Messina.— Charybdis. — Arrival at Catania. — Description. — Effect of torrents of - 390 lava from Etna.

CHAP. XLI. Visit to Mount Etna. — Regions. — Devastation. — Observations. — Arrival at foot of the cone, — Ascent of it by midnight. — Effects produced on author by sulphureous vapour and the air. — Extreme difficulty in ascending. — Arrival at summit. — Horrors described. — Reflections. — Hints to travellers. — Last eruption. — Embarkation for Palermo. - 597 CHAP. XLII. Palermo. — Priests. — Population of city. — Particular object of Sicilians. — Streets. — Stalls. — British army. — Fete of St. Rosalia. — - Description. — Convent of Capuchins. — Human skeleton. — Country house of king. — Sirocco wind. — Embarkation for Malta. — Storm. — Arrival at Marsalla. — Arrival at Malta. — Embarkation. — Arrival at Gibraltar. — Description. 403 CHAP. XLHI. Departure from Gibraltar. — St. Roque. — Wretched inn. — Malaga. — Hanoverian consul. — Description of town. — Cathedral. — Religious observances at sun-setting. — Departure. — Inn. — Favourite Spanish dish. — Ignorance of landlord. — Ossuna. — Monks. — Ladies smoking. — Departure. — Military escort. — Seville. — Description. — Spanish compliment to a stranger. — Embarkation on the Guadelquiver. — Cadiz. — Return to Seville. — Final departure. — Journey to the capital. — Carriage. — Aranjuez. — Effects of war Madrid. — Conversation with royal family. — Escurial. — Description. — Royal tombs. — CONTENTS.

XXI Page 412 427 443 Sabbath. — Bull and cock fights. — Cruelty to animals. — Reflections. — Religious processions. — System of education. — Prado. — Ladies' dress. — Inquisition. — Orders of Spain. — Gipsies. — Dwarfs. ...... CHAP. XLIV. Departure. — Inns. — Indolence of peasantry. — Vittoria. — Biscay. — Pyrenees. — Bayonne. — Bourdeaux. — Paris. — Interview with the king. — Lady taking veil. — Pont Neuf. — Departure. — Arrival in London. — Receipt of letter of Grand Vizier, Constantinople, to Sir Robert Liston, on giving orders to punish Governor of Samaria. — Reflections on the whole of this journey. — Address to believers, sceptics, and atheists. — Conclusion. Appendix. LIST OF PLATES. Cana in Galilee to be placed before the Title Page. Column of Pompey to front page 23 Obelisks of Alexandria 24- View of Jerusalem 111 Plain of Jericho 165 Procession to Sepulchre 181 Nazareth 210 Mount of Beatitude 221 Mount Tabor 221 Lake of Genesareth 224.

Damascus 285 Costume of Damascus — 289 297 Interview with Pacha Extracts from Reviews of the First Edition of this Work, respecting Egypt and the Holy Land. There is one satisfaction in perusing his narrative, that his veracity appears to be beyond all suspicion. We have seldom met with a tra veller who seemed to be so free from all design of giving a false colour ing to what he saw, or what befel him. He has another merit ; he is thoroughly versed in the book, to illustrate which he wrote ; and he writes without affectation. We leave his book with sentiments of respect for his diligence as a commentator on the Scripture, and implicit confidence in his veracity as a narrator ; which will afford matter of interesting perusal and reflection to students of the Bible. — Edinburgh Review. The object of this work is, to render his travels a sort of commentary on those portions of the Old Testament, which relate to the habits and customs of the people of Judea.

We know of no traveller who has taken equal pains with Mr. Wilson. These Travels contain much curious information. He possesses a strong memory, which has enabled him to recall these passages in the sacred writings, which were capable of being illustrated by what he saw. — London Museum of Literature. There is some serious information in his work, which likewise con tains many explanations of Scripture imagery and manners. The well intended object of it is, to convert the sceptical, by his illustrations of Scripture, and the many serious exhortations which the author has in termingled with his narrative. — Monthly Magazine, December . Unassuming in manner, it is evident he writes from the genuine im pulse of pious feeling. We are aware, that to a certain, and rather numerous class of readers, this volume will prove highly acceptable and advantageous. — Literary Register.

We have rarely taken up a book of travels with a more earnest desire to explore thelcontents than this, being unbit by the Satanic School, and truly grateful for the " light and immortality" bestowed by the Gospel. We are, in truth, edified by the unaffected piety, and warmed with the ardent enthusiasm with which he pursued his pilgrimage, in despite of obstacles the most appalling, and circumstances the most annoying. Christians of every denomination will unite in thanking the Author for his labours in the cause of their Great Master ; and the sceptic will, with still more gratitude, peruse that detail which serves to elucidate and confirm the sacred writings. The description of the Dead Sea is more full than we have met with before. This is a work likely to be come a favourite, equally with the religious reader and general en quirer. — Gazette of Fashion.