Travels in the Holy Land, Egypt, &c, &c, ... Third edition

Chapter I

Journey through Galilee. — Cana. — Well. — Water pitchers. — Miracles. — Striking coincidence of an event there with Scripture. — Disciples' field. — Blessed mount. — The miracle of feeding the multitude. — Sublime view of the Lake of Genesareth. — Observations. — Arrival at the town of Tiberias. — Greek priest. — Lodging in a church. ..... i CHAP. II. Tiberias. — Spot where the house of Peter stood. — Lake. — Miracles of Christ. — Lodging of a Greek priest. — Christian church. — Singular mode in use by the women of painting the eyes. — Governor. — Dress of soldiers. — Jews' synagogue. — Emmaus. — Tombs of the unclean spirits. — Observations. — Ludicrous group of females. — Pens. - - - - -11 CHAP. III. Departure from Tiberias. — Air Ettuiar. — Tents of the Arabs. — Visit to Mount Tabor. — View from the summit. — Transfiguration. — Places described. — Reflections. — Ruins. — Return to Nazareth. — Egyptian fugitive. - - - - - -31 CHAP. IV.

Final departure from Nazareth. — Sephoury. — Arrival at Acre. — Horrid cruelties committed by Djezznr, the former pacha. — The a CONTENTS. Page ncse of his minister cut off". — The murder of his wives. — Mutilated objects to be met in the streets. — Interview with the present pacha's physician. — His recital of barbarities. — Djezzar's death. — Acre. — Convent. — Ruins. — Consuls. — Visit to Mount Carmel. — Where the making of glass was first discovered. — Convent on Carmel. — Return to Acre. — Executioner. — Place of decapitation. — Receipt of firman from Constantinople. — Roads from Acre to Jerusalem. - - 59 CHAP. V. Departure for Tyre. — Aqueduct near Acre. — Zib. — Promontory. — Cisterns of Solomon. — Arrival at Tyre. — Siege of it by Alexander. — Ruins. — Its former splendour contrasted with its present desolation. — Reflections on the pride of the opulent merchant. — Supper with the Archbishop of Tyre. — Accommodation at his house. - - - - - - - -57 CHAP. VI.

Departure from Tyre. — Zarepta. — Arrival at Sidon. — Its former importance. — Arts and Sciences. — Present state of Sidon. — Trade. — French Consul. — Poor Convent. — Correspondence with Lady Hester Stanhope. — Her politeness. — British system of tuition. — Character of the Duke of Kent. - -73 CHAP. VII. Departure from Sidon. — Lady Stanhope's stud. — Description. — Journey through the mountains. — Convent of St. Salvadore. — Romantic situation. — Reflections. — Monks' supper. — Author taken for a medical person. — Anecdote of a blind Arab. — Description of Arabian dresses. - - - - - 90 CHAP. VIII. Departure. — Journey over Mount Lebanon. — Danger in passing through the snow. — Author and mules nearly lost in it. — Glorious view from summit. — Reflections. — Descent into the vale of Aven. — Miserable khan. — Journey through the mountains. — Damascus Impressions on the first view of it. — Arrival. — Firman treated contemptuously at the gate.

Remarks. — Franciscan convent. — Proof of the importance of patent letter from Rome. — Observations. — Description of the city. - . - - . - . 10i CONTENTS. V Page 115 144 160 174 CHAP. IX. City of Damascus. — Population. — Materials of buildings. — Effect produced by the seasons. — Bazaars. — Pilgrims for Mecca. — Cafes. — Sacred places alluded to in Scripture. — Interview with the minister and pacha. — Result. — Risk in adopting Christian dress at Damascus. — Danger of proceeding to Palmyra. — Hints to travellers. ----- CHAP. X. Departure from Damascus. — Zachale. — Baalbeck. — Temple of the Sun. — Description of its original grandeur. — Present state of the town and ruins. — Population. — Frightful storm. — Return to Zachale. — Operations on the roofs of houses in consequence of rain. — Inhabitants. — Ancient customs.— Scripture references. — Plough. - ....

CHAP. XI. Final departure from Zachale. — Crossing the mountains. — Wretched khan. — View ofBayreuth from an eminence. — Arrival there. — Druses. — Description of that tribe. — Hints to missionaries. — Opinions entertained by the Druses concerning the soul after death. — The calf an object of idolatrous worship in their temples. — Prince of the mountains. — -Description of Bayreuth. — Population. — English consul. — Convent. — Complaint of the Monks at receiving no pecuniary assistance from France. — Tombs. — Field ofSt. George. — Reflections on finally leaving the Holy Land. - CHAP. XII. Departure from Bayreuth. — Cyprus. — Confirmation of Druses worshipping the calf. — Atrocities of Buonaparte. — Larnica. — Extraordinary birth by a Cyprian woman. — Soil. — Consuls. — Salt lakes. — Visit to the capital. — Fortifications. — Dying. — Coins. — Watering vineyards. — Reflections. — Locusts. — Tyranny ofthe Turks over the Greeks. — 'Importance of this island to Britain, — Expediency of establishing a government for the Greeks. — Return to Larnica. --'-"- CHAP. XIII.

Departure from Cyprus. — Voyage. — Paphos. — Preaching of St. Paul. — Knights. — Christians. — Visit of the apostle Paul. VI CONTENTS. Page 198 209 221 235 — Samos. — Pythagoras. — Rhodes. — Description. — Appre hension of the plague. — Disembarkation. — Patmos. — Arrival at Sedequi. — Dutch consul. — Arrival at Smyrna Leper. — Pestilence. — Observations- - CHAP. XIV. The plague. — Departure for Ephesus. — Journey. — Church of St. John. — Village. — Aqueduct. — Ruins. — Theatre. — Temple of Diana. — Statue of the goddess. — Apostle Paul. — Soil. — Plough. — Coins. — Return to Smyrna. — Philadelphia and Laodicea. — Pergamus, Sardis, and Thyatira. CHAP. XV. Smyrna. — Plague. — Description. — City. — Port. — Population. — Bible society. — British system of education. — Birth-day of George the Third. — English consul. — Casino. — Villas. — Remarkable fact ofthe sacrifice ofa Greek Christian. — Decapitation of Pachaley. — Stratagem. — Remarks on capital punishments. --.--..

CHAP. XVI. Departure from Smyrna. — Mitylene. — Tenedos. — Troy. — Dardanelles. — Constantinople. — Hippodrome. — Burned Pillar. — Menagerie. — Dockyard and Navy. — Mint. — Visit to the interior of the mosques with the British ambassador. — Description. — Church of St. Sophia. — Religious tenets of the Mahomedans. — Procession of grand seignior to mosque. — Janissaries. — Bosphorus. — Streets of the Capital. — Barber's Shop. — Churchyard. — Palace ofthe English ambassador. — Popularity of Sir Robert Liston. — Lady W. Montague. — Dervishes. — Representation of Ambassador to the Porte, of the conduct of the Governor of Samaria. CHAP XVII. Departure from Constantinople. — Arrival at Hydra. — Athens. Description. — Olive trees. — Hill of Mars. — Apostle Paul. Cattle treading out corn. — Convent. — Earthen vessels found. — Embarkation. — Corinth. — Description. — Cradle.

Harbour. — Bibles. — Embarkation. — Patras. — Church of St. CONTENTS. VII Page 277 298 Andrew. — Dreadful punishment ofa Turk. — Embarkation. — Cephalonia. — Corfu. — Mal-aria. — Sail for Malta. - CHAP XVIII. Malta. — Description. — Apostle Paul. — Bay under his name. — Mode adopted by criminals to insure absolution from sin. — Soil of Island. — Fruits. — Harbour of La Valetta. — Description of houses. — Knights. — Palace. — Governor's country house. — Laws. — Criminals. — Church of St. John. — Sanctuary. — Execution for murder. — Tomb of Sir Ralph Abercrombie. — Inscription. ..... CHAP. XIX. Passport. — Departure for Syracuse. — Arrival. — Apostle Paul's visit to this place. — Harbour. — Quarantine. — Sicilian Baron. — Disembarkation. — Ancient city. — Amphitheatre. — Ear of Dionysius. — Church of St. John. — Catacombs. — Fountain of Arethusa. — Superstition of natives. — Inn. — Landlord. — Population. — British consul. — Embarkation for Messina. — Arrival. — Description. — Persons hired to commit assassination. — Letter ofthe Virgin Mary to the inhabitants of Messina. — Charybdis. — Arrival at Catania. — Description. — Effect of torrents of lava from Ætna. - - - - - - -310 CHAP. XX.

Visit to Mount Ætna. — Regions. — Devastations. — Remarks. — Arrival at the foot of the cone. — Ascent by midnight. — Effects produced on the author by the sulphureous vapour and air. — Extreme difficulty in ascending. — Arrival at the summit. — Horrors described. — Reflections. — Hints to travellers. — Last eruption. — Embarkation for Palermo. ----- 322 CHAP. XXI. Palermo. — Priests. — Population. — Streets. — Houses. — Stalls. — British army. — Fete of St. Rosalia. — Description. — Bibles from England burned. — Convent of capuchins. — Human skeletons. — Country house, of the king. — Modern Golgotha. — Sirocco wind. — Embarkation for Malta. — Storm. — Arrival at Marsalla. — Detention. — Arrival at Malta. — Arrival at Gibraltar. — Description. - - - - - - - -331 CONTENTS. Page CHAP. XXII Departure from Gibraltar. — St. Roque. — Wretched inn. — Malaga. — Hanoverian consul. — Description of the Town. — Cathedral. — Religious observances at sunset. — Departure. — Inn. — Favourite Spanish dish. — Ignorance of the landlord. — Ossuna. — Monks. — Ladies' smoking. — Departure. — Military escort. — Seville. — Description. — Spanish compliment to a stranger. — Embarkation on the Guadalquiver. — Cadiz. — Return to Seville. — Final departure. — Journey to the Capital. — Carriage. — Aranjuez. — Effects of war. — Madrid. — Conversation with the royal family. — Escurial. — Description. — Royal tombs. — Sabbath. — Bull and cockfights. — Cruelty to Animals. — Reflections. — Religious processions. — System of education. — Prado. — Ladies' dresses. — Inquisition. — Orders of Spain. — Gipsies. — Dwarfs. — The number of the army. — Chair of the Scottish kings. - - - - . 546 CHAP. XXIII.

Departure. — Inns. — Indolence of peasantry. — Vittoria. — Field of Battle. — Biscay. — Natives. — Peculiar laws. — Pyrennees. — Bayonne. — Bourdeaux. — Protestant churches. — Theatre. — Nantz. — Description. — Massacres. — Journey to the convent ofLaTrappe. — Description of it. ... -375 CHAP. XXIV. Departure from the convent. — The Netherlands. — Waterloo.— Buonaparte's carriage. — Paris. — Interview with the king. Graves of Louis XVI., his queen, and Charlotte Corday. — Dungeon in which her majesty was confined. — Original painting of Mary queen of Scots. — Persons sacrificed under the reign of Robespierre. — Description of a lady taking the veil. Remains of James II. — House of Voltaire. — Revenue of the royal family of France.— Other particulars respecting the Capital.— Departure. — Boulogne. — English church. — Napoleon's praam broken up. — Arrival in England— Reflections on the whole journey. - ,„_ CONTENTS.

IX Page 284 360 CHAP. XVI. Journey to the Dead Sea. — Preparatory interview with the governor of Jerusalem. — Departure. — Visit to the tomb of Lazarus in Bethany. — Fountain of the Apostles. — Dreary tract through the mountains. — Reflections on passages of Scripture. — Sublime view of the plains and hills in the neighbourhood of Jericho. — Arrival at Jericho. — Interview with the governor. — Arab hut. — Dress of the natives. — Remarks. — Escort, &c. ..---.. CHAP. XVII. Departure. — Journey along the plain. — Jordan. — Dead Sea. — Frightful desolation. — Striking picture of the malediction of heaven on this country. — Accuracy of Scripture. — Optical illusion. — Description of the sea. — Important discoveries to be expected were boats permitted. — Bathing in the water. — Description. — Bitumen. — Analysis of the water. — Return to Jericho. — Final interview with the governor. — Arab tents. — Arrival at Jerusalem. -------- 305 CHAP. XVIII.

Visit to the church ofthe holy sepulchre. — The procession and devotions of the Latins. — Unhappy contentions between them and the Greeks for possession of this church. — Description of it. — Ceremony of creating a knight of the sepulchre. — Religious ceremonies. — Ruins of the ancient city of Jerusalem. — Observations. — Hospitality of the friars. — Conversations with them on the Protestant and Catholic faith. — Hints to missionary institutions. --..».-. 330 CHAP. XIX. Departure from Jerusalem. — Arrival at Beer. — Residence with the Governor. — Ludicrous incident of a female Arab. — Dangerous tract through the mountains. — Camels. — Observations. — Bethel — Valley of Samaria. — Well. — Conversation of Christ with the woman, a native of this place. — Where bones of Joseph were deposited. — Arrival at Samaria. — Insulting conduct of the governor. — Apprehensions in consequence of it. vol. i. a Page 373 387 XVltl CONTENTS.

CHAP. XX. Insult offered to the author by the governor of Samaria. — Wretched accommodation. — Departure. — Arrival at Jenini. — Commander. — Apprehension of an attack from the Arabs. — Robbery ofthe friars. — Further escort found necessary on the journey. — Plain of Esdraelon. — Observations. — Buonaparte's battle here. — Mount Tabor. — Arrival at Nazareth. — Meeting with the grand superior from Jerusalem. — His narrative respecting the brutal conduct of the governor to friars passing through Samaria. — Representation by the author to the governor of Jerusalem by letter. — Return of the escort to that citv. ----_... CHAP. XXI. Nazareth. — Church. — Picture of Christ. — Sacred objects shown. — Workshop of Joseph. — Chapel. — Where the angel saluted Mary. — Hill over which the Jews threatened to throw Christ. — Mary's Well. — Description of the convent and of Nazareth. — Visit to Nain. — Endor. — Plough of Nazareth. — Soil. — Reflections. — Author challenged by a Mahomedan for wearing the white turban. — Remarks. - LIST OF PLATES.

VOL. I. Jerusalem to front the Title Page. Column of Pompey to front page 35 Street of Grief, Jerusalem 253 Plain of Jericho 305 Procession to the Holy Sepulchre .... 331 Nazareth 387 VOL. II. Bethlehem to front page 1 Cana in Galilee 4 The Lake of Genesareth 25 Mount Tabor and Beatitudes 35 Damascus 115 Ephesus 209 Convent of La Trappe 379 a2 REVIEWS OF THE FORMER EDITIONS OF THIS WORK. There is one satisfaction in perusing his narrative, that his veracity appears to be beyond all suspicion. We have seldom met with a traveller who seemed to be so free from all design of giving a false colouring to what he saw or what befel him. He has another merit ; he is thoroughly versed in the book, to illustrate which he wrote ; and he writes without affectation. We leave his book with sentiments of respect for his diligence as a commentator on the Scripture, and implicit confidence in his veracity as a narrator ; which will afford matter of interesting perusal and reflection to students of the Bible. — Edinburgh Review.

The object of this work is, to render his travels a sort of commentary on those portions of the Old Testament which relate to the habits and customs of the people of Judea. We know of no traveller who has taken equal pains with Mr. Wilson. He possesses a strong memory, which has enabled him to recall these passages in the sacred writings which were capable of being illustrated by what he saw. — London Museum of Literature. There is some serious information in his work, which con tains many explanations of Scripture imagery and manners. The well-intended object of it is, to convert the sceptical by his illustrations of Scripture, and the many serious exhortations which the author has intermingled with his narrative. — Monthly Magazine. Unassuming in manner, it is evident he writes from the genuine impulse of pious feeling.

We are aware that to a certain and rather numerous class of readers this volume will prove highly acceptable and advantageous. — Literary Register. We have rarely taken up a book of travels with a more earnest desire to explore the contents than this, being unbit REVIEWS. by the Satanic School, and truly grateful for the " light and immortality" bestowed by the Gospel. We are, in truth, edified by the unaffected piety, and warmed with the ardent enthusiasm with which he pursued his pilgrimage, in despite of obstacles the most appalling, and circumstances the most annoying. Christians of every denomination will unite in thanking the Author for his labours in the cause of their Great Master ; and the sceptic will, with still more gratitude, peruse that detail which serves to elucidate and confirm the sacred writings.

The description of the Dead Sea is more full than we have met with. — Gazette of Fashion. This last book claims most attention, as the production of so entertaining and intelligent a traveller as Mr. Wilson. In both respects we can recommend this modest work to the perusal of our readers. The portions which relate to the Holy Land leave us little more to desire, and we have not seen a recent book of travels more worthy of notice. — Monthly Magazine. The journey through Palestine and the description ofthe holy places are most interesting ; and the Author keeps in view the coincidence of the manners of the present Orientals with the accounts we have in the Sacred Scriptures ; we lay down his book with feelings of respect for the honest piety and zeal of its Author. — Critical Gazette. Mr. Wilson's object in viewing these interesting portions of the earth was not that of idle curiosity, but in order that he might examine for himself the correspondence between the Scrip ture delineations and the scenes they describe.

Although he gives an account of the present state of the country, and the manners of its inhabitants, as faithful as it is simple and easy to be understood, yet his principal object is always to shew the world that the inspired prophets and apostles were faithful historians and skilful topographers. — Man of Letters. His appeal to this country for the Greeks is well directed and triumphant. We leave readers to judge how well these commendations are merited by the indefatigable and enter prizing Author. Mr. Wilson is avowedly a religious traveller , he has too much good sense to expect that every one will visit him in his closet with the same enthusiasm of feeling scenes in all that sublimity which religion and antiquity have cast around them. We do not find in the whole one sentiment betokening the harshness of bigotry.

He has many claims on REVIEWS. our attention. His veracity is beyond all doubt, and in this" degenerate age this is no slight praise. Notwithstanding the store of Biblical knowledge he possesses and those admirable commentaries his work presents on the most interesting portions both of the Old and New Testament, he writes in a style perfectly without affectation, unassuming, and distinct ; altogether free, on the one hand, from the asperity of priestly pride, and on the other, the flippancy of fashionable silliness. There is something highly striking and sublime in the simplicity with which Mr. Wilson alludes to the present state of Jerusalem, and those feelings it excited in him. — Edinburgh Observer. Nothing interesting in point of locality seems to have escaped the notice of this most diligent and active traveller.

It is difficult to find any work so strongly characterized by a sense of devotion throughout, as well as being amusing. We do most heartily subscribe to the commendations this book has received from the several reviews and periodical publications, and sincerely hope the Author's very laudable purpose will be fully accomplished in confirming the believer, enlightening the sceptic, and gratifying the scientific. — Sun. This is, perhaps, the most complete work that has yet appeared on the Holy Land : to Christians it will appear most deeply interesting, and has been illustrated with beautiful engravings of peculiar sacred spots. — Star. Perhaps there are few volumes of travels more acceptable to the public than the present. The Author is so ardent on the subjects he treats, particularly those connected with religion, that he carries the reader along with him, and always inspires respect.

One leading object of these travels is, that of confirming the veracity of the Sacred Volume, by shewing that many of the customs described in it still prevail in those countries of which they are recorded. — Literary Chronicle. This Author for intelligence ranks as high as most, and for piety as high as any that have visited the scenes of Israel's bondage and Israel's glory ; and his illustrations of the Scrip tures, with which the volume abounds, and the judicious remarks with which it is interspersed, are most valuable. — Irish Christian Observer. TRAVELS IN EGYPT, THE HOLY LAND, TURKEY, &c.

CHAPTER I. JOURNEY THROUGH GALILEE.

CANA. WELL. WATER- PITCHERS. MIRACLES. STRIKING COINCIDENCE OF AN EVENT THERE WITH SCRIPTURE. DISCIPLES' FIELD. BLESSED MOUNT. THE MIRACLE OF FEEDING THE MULTI- TUDE. SUBLIME VIEW OF THE LAKE OF GENESARETH. OBSERVATIONS. — ARRIVAL AT THE TOWN OF TIBERIAS. GREEK PRIEST. LODGING IN A CHURCH. v_/N receiving the benedictions of the monks, by whom I had been so courteously entertained, I set out on the morning of the 26th of February at sunrise, with the view of visiting those parts of Galilee which had been so eminently blessed, not only by the residence of, but also the performance of many signal miracles on the part of, our adorable Redeemer. Here I would recommend travellers to commence their journey at the same time of the morning, as being the most pleasant for travelling, and to halt about mid day, VOL. II.

B CANA when the heat is so powerful. This is a practice with the natives of the East, and a most judicious one. Many indeed prefer to travel by night, and sleep during the warmest part ofthe day. The tranquillity that happily reigned over the whole country, in consequence of proper vigilance on the part of the pacha at Acre, formed a striking difference to those disturbed districts through which I had hitherto travelled, and rendered it unnecessary to have recourse to any mili tary escort. On this occasion, therefore, I was only attended by my servant, and Michael, formerly a domestic in the convent, who was recommended as a person of activity and intelligence. The morning was truly glorious; my expectations ran high, and at every step the delightful sensations I experienced were strongly increased.

I pursued my way in a northern direction, went through the valleys, and was often accosted by Mussulmen, who passed with the salutation of " Salam aleikoum," meaning, may peace be with you ; and in two hours I arrived at Cana, almost contiguous to the plain of Zebulun. This was named Cana of Galilee* to distinguish it from another belong ing as an inheritance to the tribe of Asher.-)- It stands upon an elevation overlooking a valley, and is occupied in one part by Christians, in the other by Mahomedans. This is the place which has been rendered so highly memo rable by our Lord's first miracles, which he wrought at the marriage feast, — in all probability of a relation, since his mother and some of her kindred were present. The per formance of this miracle appears to have been the most proper for the manifestation of his glory and commence ment of his ministry, since it carried with it such irresistible conviction.

Under a scorching sun, I stopped at a foun- * John, xxi. 2. f Josh. xix. 28. X John, ii. lj. WELL. 3 tain, near the entrance of this village, to take refreshments; and it will be observed, that it was the only one near the village, and it is called, " The Well of Cana;" and here, it may be remarked, as at all wells, there are one or more trees to afford shelter from heat, as of old.* On sitting upon the shattered wall which inclosed it, I turned to that highly interesting passage of Sacred Writ which records that six water-pots of stone were used at the nuptial feast, when the modest water saw its God and blushed.f While I was thus engaged, a striking fact occurred. Six females, having their faces veiled J, came down to the well, each carrying on her head a pot §, for the purpose of being filled with water, which evinced how much the customs of old are observed here at this day.

These vessels are formed of clay, hardened by the heat of the sun, and are of a globular shape, and large at the mouth, not unlike the bottles used in our country for holding vitriol, but not so large. Many of them have handles attached to the sides ; and it was a wonderful coincidence with Scrip ture, that the vessels appeared to contain much about the same quantity as those which the Evangelist informs us were employed on occasion of the celebration of the mar riage which was honoured by the Saviour's presence ; namely, three firkins, or about twelve gallons each. It is further a remarkable circumstance, that in the Holy * Gen. xlix. 22. + On the reality of the miracle itself, and the sincerity of our Lord in the working of it, I would remark, that, in order to show to demon stration to all around that there could not possibly be any deceit, wine casks were not called for, but pots of water.

Wine vessels, in which some lees were remaining, might have given both a vinous colour and taste to the water, but water pots could contribute nothing of this nature; while his employing servants, and not his disciples, removes any suspicion of collusion ; and his sending the wine so produced to the governor of the feast was evidence that the miracle could bear the strictest examination. X Gen. xxiv. 66. Song of Sol. v. 7. § John, ii. 6 — 10. B WELL Land it rarely happens that men are employed for the purpose of drawing water; but it is a duty entirely devolving on the females, and shows strongly that such a practice has been continued from the earliest ages.* The water of this well is pure as crystal, and supplied by springs from the mountains. It may be added, that during the time of the patriarchs, the discovery of water was held of such liigh importance as to distinguish the spot by a particular name ; and of this we have a striking picture as recorded by the great lawgiver and evangelists After the attention of the women had been arrested by my reading on the spot, one of them lowered her pitcher into the well, and offered me water to drink J, having perceived that my servant was spreading out provisions on the ground at the time ; they then returned to the village with the vessels on their heads, and were succeeded by others on the same errand.

A sketch of this highly interesting scene is given with all possible accuracy. The ruins of a church are shown, founded on the spot where the celebration of the nuptial union had taken place ; and there is also shown a stone vessel, gravely said to have been one of those used on that occasion. It was in this village that, at a future period of his life, our Lord, in his unparalleled condescension and sympathy, made another display of his power, at the earnest solicitation of a person of rank, whose son was on the eve of dissolution at Capernaum, thirty miles distant ; and on his return to that place, the father found that he had beeri restored to health at the very hour when he held the conversation with this great Physician of body and soul.§ This was the second miracle performed in Galilee.

The French, I was informed, had an encampment about this place. I then passed through Cana, or Great Cana, as it is called, * Gen. xxi. 31. xxiv. 11 — 20. Exod. ii. 16. John, iv. 6. f Gen. xxvi. 18 — 23. X Idxxiv. 18. § John, iv. 46. -PU&: fy £,ort47*na7i &C^Zondo^JS30 '*?//<? m Of' ' ,'r . ■xftsti by J* Clark, from a S '--■■' PLAIN OF ZEBULUN. 5 on account of the above-mentioned striking miracles. This place, which is the reputed birthplace of Philip, James, and Nathanael*, now contains only a few mean-looking houses. I entered the plain of Zebulun, going along the side of a field pointed out as that where our Saviour walked with his disciples when the barley was ripe, and he was rebuked for permitting them to satisfy the pressing calls of hunger, by eating the ears of corn on the Sabbath.j- Every blade upon this spot, whether it be of grass, corn, or any other plant, is held in the highest degree sacred ; and a large quantity is plucked up and transmitted to catholic countries, where it is received with reverential devotion.

After supplying myself with some blades to take to England J, I proceeded on my journey by this " plain," which multitudes had trodden who had come from Judea, Jerusalem, Tyre, and Sidon, not only to hear our Lord, but to be healed by him.§ It is of considerable extent, and in many parts of it the soil is black. There were piles of stones covering over or marking the place of graves. This mode of covering the ashes of the dead is to be seen in almost every Mahomedan churchyard, which reminds us of a similar custom of old to perpetuate the memory of the departed. || Such cairns, also the remains of a remote antiquity, exist both in England and Scotland. Near the end of this plain is a sacred elevation called the " Mountain of Beatitudes," which was so eminently distinguished by our Divine Master, who, in humility and meekness, addressed himself to five thousand persons If ; and where I read on its summit with the deepest interest those precious doctrines of grace and salvation he delivered, which are so highly comprehensive and sublime, * John, xxi. 2. f Mark, ii. 23.