Journal of a Voyage up the Mediterranean; principally among the Islands of the Archipelago, and in Asia Minor: including ... particulars relative to the Greek Revolution ... To which is added, an Essay on the Fanariotes, translated from the French of M. P. Zallony

Front matter

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE UP THE MEDITERRANEAN; PRINCIPALLY AMONG THE ISLANDS OF THE ARCHIPELAGO, AND IN ASIA MINOR: INCLUDING MANY INTERESTING PARTICULARS RELATIVE TO CTljr (fit TsK Hrtioluhon, ESPECIALLY A JOURNEY THROUGH MAIKA TO THE CAMP OF IBRAHIM PACHA, TOGETHER WITH OBSERVATIONS ON THE ANTIQUITIES, OPINIONS, AND USAGES OF GREECE, AS THEY NOW EXIST. TO WHICH IS ADDED, AN ESSAY ON THE FANARIOTES, translated from the French of MARK PHILIP ZALLONY, A GREEK. By the REV. CHARLES SWAN, LATE OF CATHARINE HALL, CAMBRIDGE; CHAPLAIN TO H. M. S. CAMBRIAN; AUTHOR OF SERMONS ON SEVERAL SUBJECTS, AND TRANSLATOR OF THE CESTA ROMANORUM. " Whilk wore fools, and whilk were wise, And whilk of them could most quaintyse ; And whilk did wrong, and whilk right, And whilk maintained peace and sight— Of their deeds shall be my sawe.

In what time, and of what law." Chronicle of Robert de Brunne. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: PRINTED FOR C. AND J. R1VINGTON, st. Paul's church-yard, WATERLOO-PLACE, AND 148, STRAND. 1826. LONDON : PRINTED BY R. GILBERT, ST. John's square.

ADVERTISEMENT.

Chapter I

Leave England, 1. — Amusement on board, 2. — Cadiz— Spanish pilot, 3, 4. — Cathedral, 5. — Convent of the Augustines, 6. — Religious ceremonies, 7. — Images, 8. — Spanish waiter, 9. — Spanish houses, 10. — Spanish women, 11, 12. — Early marriages, 13. — Spanish play, 14. — Excursion to Xeres, 15. — Reflections on the Revolution, 16 — 18. — Excursion to Xeres, 19, 20.— Xeres, 21.— Mode of irrigation, 22.— Cathedral, 23. — Spanish songs, 24, 25.

Chapter II

Island of Galeta, 27. — Malta — Islands of Galeta, Gozo, and Comeno, 28. — La Valetta — Governor's palace, 29. — Church of St. John, 30. — Public library — Opera house, 31. — Naples — Mount Etna, 32. — Strait of Messina — Beautiful prospect, 33.— Scylla and Charybdis, 34.— Bay of Naples, 35. — Naples — Musicians, 36.— Disagreeable quarantine, 37. — The Villa Reale, 38.— The streets of Naples, 39— The Villa Reale, 40, 41. — Lazzaroni, 42. — Pompeii, 43 — 55. — Naples, 56. — Rout at Lady Drummond's, 57. — French compliment, 58.

Chapter III

Naples — Bourbonic museum, 60, 61. — Mode of unrolling the papyri, 62.— Library— Theatre of San Carlos, 63.— Excur- CONTENTS. VI sion to Vesuvius, 64, 65.— Vesuvius— Neapolitan guide, 66. Excursion to Puzzuoli, 67, 68.— Caligula's bridge— Cumæ, 69.— Shooting a shark, 70.— Genoa, 71.— Palaces— Female attire, 72.— Ducal palace, 73.— Sacro Catino, 74, 75 — Church of Notre Dame, 76.— Church of St. Mary de Carignan, 77.— Bridge of Carignan, 7 8. -Theatrical representations, 79, 80.— Excursive remarks, 81, 82.— Return to Malta, 83.— Malta— Mrs. Charles Fox, 84.— Remarks on manners, 85.— Excursion to St. Antonio, 86.— Mode of catching prawns, 87.— Search for books, 88. — Emanuel Pinto, 89.— Maltese poetry, 90, 91.— Barrenness of the soil, 92.— Difficulty of culture, 93.— Character ofthe Maltese, 94. Curious manuscript, 95— 97.— Catholic ordination, 98.— Anecdote of a Maltese and his goat, 99.— Public library, 100. Botanic garden — Anecdote, 101.

Chapter IV

Milo— Methodist missionary, 103.— Spetzia— Napoli di Romania, 104.— Greece— Feelings on landing, 105. — Napoli — Interesting prospect, 106— Market — Greek soldiers, 107, 108. — Turkish cemetery, 109.— Citadel, 110. — Giovanni Notara— Bible Society, 1 1 1 .—Beautiful prospect, 112. — Capture of a Maltese brig by the Greeks, 1 13. — Temple of Minerva Sunias, 114, 115. — Foolish conduct of travellers, 116, 117. — Cape Sunium — Greek signet, 118. — Shooting excursion, 119. — Anecdote of a Greek, 120. — Negropont — Scio — Massacre of the Greeks, 121. — Anecdote of a Greek boy, 122. — Reflections on the new year, 123 — 126. — Smyrna — Dress of the Armenians, 127. — Barbarous murder of a Greek, 128. — Turkish women, 129. — Fine view of the country round Smyrna, 130. — Turkish burial places, 131. — Unpleasant adventure, 132. — Description of a Mosch, 133.— Turkish mode of worship, 134. — Confidence of a Turk in an Englishman, 135. — Aqueducts, 136. — Ancient amphitheatre, 137. — Cere- A monies ofthe Greeks on Christmas-day, 138. — Bazar, 139 r^ Questions sent by the Bible Society, 140. — Costume of the Grecian women, 141. CONTENTS. VII

Chapter V

Smyrna— Interview with the Capitan Pacha, 143— 145.— Visit to Suleiman Aga, 146.— Ball at Mr. Whittle's, 147 Trait in the Greek character, 148.— Sedecui— Barbarity of a Turk, 149, 150. — Greek servant, 151.— Bougiah— Anecdote of a serpent, 152.— Smyrna— Salutation of the Pacha of Scio, 153. — Visit to Suleiman Aga, 154 — 169. — Description of his hall, 156. — His house and gardens, 157.— Description of his Harem, 158.— Curious well, 159. — His civility, 160 — His entertainment, 161.— Description of Hassan Pacha, 162. —Description of the feast, 163, 164.— Bill of fare, 165,166. — Anecdote of Hassan Pacha, 167.— Description of the company, 168. — Appearance of Suleiman Aga, 169. — Ceremony at the Greek Epiphany, 170. — Galantry of Lieut. Marsham, 171, 172. — Vourla — Curiosities, 173. — Proceed on the voyage, 174.— Mount Olympus, 175.

Chapter VI

Thessalonica — Mosch of St. Demetrius, 177. — Dr. Clarke's erroneous statements, 178—180. — Mosch of St. Demetrius, 181.— Mosch of St. Sophia, 182.— Triumphal arch of Constantine, 183. — Supposed triumphal arch of Augustus, 184. — Ancient Greek inscriptions, 185. — Convent of the dancing Dervishes, 186. — Pacha's summer-house — Tumulus, 187. — Curious mode of catching partridges, 188. — Injudicious conduct of the Bible Society, 189, 190. — Greek superstition, 191.- — -Providential escape at sea, 192. — Anchor off Syrochoro, 193. — Syrochoro — Ruins of the Acropolis, 194. — Inscription on the Acropolis, 195. — Devastations of the Turks, 196. — Ancient Greek inscription, 197. — Preparations for attacking pirates, 198. — Action with the pirates, 199. — Death of the captain of the pirates, 200. — Pursuit of the pirates, 201. — Action with the pirates, 202. — Gallant behaviour of the officers, 203. — Burial of the sailors, 204. — Reflections on their death, 205. — Latine vessels, 206. — Pro- CONTENTS.

VIII ceedings of the officers, 207.— Beautiful prospect, 208. — Violence of an Austrian admiral, 209.— Strange fact relative to Trichiri, 210.— Proceed on the voyage— Pass Skyropouli, 211.

Chapter VII

Smyrna — Unfounded reports, 213. — Characteristics of the Greeks, 214. — Execution of four Greeks, 215. — Interment of a sailor, 216. — Bad manners of a Pacha, 217. — Excursion to Mount Pagus, 218. — Funeral ceremonies ofthe Greeks, 219 to 221. — Precipitate interment, 222. — Singular story related by Tournefort, 223—232 Greek Papas, 232.— Kyriacos Phaidro — Greek rites and ceremonies, 233. — Greek episcopal croisier, 234. — Ceremonies of the Armenian church, 235, 236. — Frank merchants of Smyrna, 237. — Modern Greek literature, 238—251. — Translation of Moliere's " Avare," 239. — History of Economus, 240 — 244. — Translation of Moliere's " Avare," 244, 245. — Polyxena, 246. — Translation of " Temistocle" and " Olympiade," 247 Original dramatic poems, 247 — 251.

Chapter VIII

Leave Smyrna — Mr. Bulwer — Beautiful station off' Vourla, 253. — Employment of the Greek prisoners, 254. — Reflections on human failings, 255—258. — Intended present to Capt. Hamilton, 259. — Hints to passengers in a man-of-war, 260 — 262. Derivation of " Negropont," 263.— Officers of the " Bellona Austriaca," 264.— Visit of the Greek Admiral Miaoulis, 265. — The force of external appearance, 266.— Present of a medal to Miaoulis, 267.— Extract from Galignani's Messenger, 268. — Hydra — State of the Greek navy, 269. — Inconveniences of travelling in Greece, 270.— The Greek prisoners, 271.— Reported victory of the Greeks, 272.— Malta— Appearance of La Valetta, 273—The lofts, 274.— Preach at the chapel of the palace, 275.— Excursion to Civita Vecchia, 276— Effects of a high wind, 277— Religious ceremonies of the Roman Catholics on Good Friday, 278-280— Private theatricals, 281, 282.— Anecdote of a lady and her physician, 283— CONTENTS. IX Conversazione of the Marchioness of Hastings, 284, 285. — Reflections, 286.

Chapter IX

Confession of a Greek pirate, 288 — 318. — Sentence of the pirates, 319. — Malta — Excursion to Boschetto, 320, 321. — Curious rencontre, 322, 323. — Ridiculous situation of a Monk, 324. — Presentation of colours to 95th regiment, 325. — Maltese Biblical criticism, 326, 327. — Maltese criticism, 328.— Maltese Biblical criticism, 329, 330.— School of industry, 331.

Chapter X

Malta — Embarkation of the Marquis of Hastings, 333. — Singular anecdote, 334, 335. — Marchioness of Hastings, 336, 337. — Ignorance of the natives of India, 338. — Curious books, 339— 347. — May-day, 347. — Recollections of May, 348. — Beautiful scene off Elba, 349. — Anecdote respecting the unicorn, 350. — Existence of the unicorn, 351 — 354. — Fabulous stories of Pliny, 355. — A Grampus — Villa Franca, 356. — Fine approach to Nice, 357. — Nice — Dine with the governor, 358. — Departure of Lord Hastings, 359. — Malta — Promotion of Lieut. Marsham, 360. — Character of Captain Marsham, 361. — Reported death of the Pacha of Egypt, 362. — Destruction of the Turkish fleet, 363. — Endeavours of Mr. Masson to assist the Greeks, 364. — Greek vessels building in America, 365. VOL. II.

Chapter XI

Napoli di Romania — Greek Buffo, 2. — Napoli — Government printing-office, 3.— Proclamation of the Greek government, CONTENTS. X 4, 5. — Excursion to Argos, 6. — Argos — Devastation, 7. — Tenants of the Police-office, 8. — Oracular shrine, 9, 10. — Supposed Temple of Apollo, 11. — Escape of Ipsilanti, 12. — Greek family, 13. — Market-place — Delicious repast, 14. — Napoli — Coffee-house, 15. — Concourse of foreigners, 16.— Athanasius Phatoumara, 17. — Fortress of Palamedi, 18, 19. —Americans, 20. — Surrender of Navarin, 21. — Want of dis cipline in the Greek forces, 22. — Greek mode of warfare, 23. — Services of Mr. Gervase, 24. — Ungrateful behaviour of a Greek, 25. — Napoli — Senate-house, 26. — Anecdote of a Thes salian, 27. — Visit of Prince Mavrocordato and suite, 28. — Description of Prince Mavrocordato, 29. — Pyrrhic or Alba nian dance, 30. — Proceedings of the Austrians, 31. — Pol troonery of the Austrian, 32. — Injustice of the Austrians, 33.

Bible Society — Visit of a Greek, 34. — Losses of Captain Ger vase, 35. — Visit of Captain Hamilton to the admiral of the Turkish fleet, 36, 37. — Cowardice and indolence of the Turks, 38.— Flight of the Turkish fleet, 39.— Off Zia— Victory of the Greeks, 40.— Annihilation of a Turkish frigate, 41. — Carysto — Gulf of Dora — Scio, 42.

Chapter XII

Proceedings of Captain Sotheby, 44. — Smyrna — Aqueducts Locusts, 45. — Butterflies — Fruit-trees, 46. — Barbarous murder of a Jew by a Turk, 47.— Vourla— Pursuit of Greek pirates, 48.— Mole of Alexander the Great, 49.— Antiquities— Bronze medal, 50. — Reported victory of the Greeks, 51.— Unsuccessful search for the pirates, 52. — Bay of Mycone Pursuit ofthe pirates, 53.— State of Mycone, 54.— Women of Mycone, 55.— Delos— Ruins, 56 Greek inscription— Ancient theatre, 57.— Ruins— Mount Cynthus, 58. — Oval basin- Ruins, 59— Locusts— Anti-Delos, 60— Curious dress and dwelling of a Papas, 61— Mycone— Wife of the Consul, 62. —Ridiculous dress of the Consul of Tino, 63— Description ofthe town of Syra, 64— Public fountain— Greek women, 65. —Dress of the Greek women, 66— Suburb of Syra— English Consul, 67.— Erroneous statements of Dr. Clarke 68 69 — 15 ' ' " CONTENTS.

XI Naxia — Excursion to Antiparos, 70. — Misfortunes in the journey, 71 — 74. — Distress of the guide, 75. — Antiparos — Dwelling of a Papas, 76. — Grotto of Antiparos, 77, 78. — Celebration of mass in the grotto, 79. — Return from the grotto, 80. — Ruins of Ancient Paros, 81. — Visit to the Quarry of Parechia, 82. — Sure-footed mules — Cave of Trelawny, 83. — Death of Ulysses, 84.

Chapter XIII

Harbour of Milo, 85. — Milo — Dress of the females, 86. — Amphitheatre of Melos, 87. — Ruins — Signet, 88. — Spetzia — March of Ibrahim Pacha, 89. — Condition of the Pacha's army, 90. — Sail for Napoli, 91. — Skirmish between the Greeks and Turks, 92. — Injudicious mode of warfare, 93. — Conduct of Colocotroni, 94. — Proceedings of the Greek government, 95. — Account of the death of Ulysses, 96 — 98. — Affidavit ofthe physician, 98, 99. — Plot against Trelawny, 100. — Captain Fenton's character, 101. — Death ofthe heroine Bobolina, 102. — Massacre of Turks at Hydra, 103. — The crews of Greek vessels, 104. — Extenuation of the massacre, 105. — Barbarity of a Greek, 106. — Precarious condition of the Greeks, 107. — Erroneous expectations of Europeans who visit Greece, 108 — 111. — Arsenal of Napoli, 112. — Ingenuity of a Papas, 113. — Polonese officer, 114.

Off Spetzia — Cerigo — Modon, 115. — Zante — Strivali — Cephalonia, 116. — Leucadia — Fate of Sappho, 117, 118. — Calamas — Greek refugees, 119. — Sir F. Adam — Departure of Mr. Power, 120. — Victory ofthe Greeks at Tripolitza, 121. — Thunder-storm— Greek fleet, 122. — Inertness of the Greeks, 123, 124. — Strange conduct of visitors to Greece, 125, 126.

Chapter XIV

Spetzia, 127. — Capture of an Austrian vessel, 128. — Visit of Mavrocordato, Miaoulis, and Tombasi, 129. — Personal appearance of Canaris, 130. — Plan for making Greece a kingdom, 131. — Extractfrom a French work, 132, 133. — Description of Countdi Gamba, 134. — Field of battle of Moulins, 135. — Depopulation of Argos, 136. — Description of a bass-relief, 137. — Success of the Greeks at Tripolitza, 1 38. — Piracies near Hydra, 1 39 — CONTENTS. Character of the Greeks, 140 — 144. — Letters of marque- Greek fire-ship, 145, 146.— Robbers— Two Greeks shot, 147. — Difficulty and danger among the Greeks of punishing robbers, 148, 149. — Treatment of Turkish prisoners by the Greeks, 150. — Victory at Missolonghi, 151. — Folly of the persons robbed, 152 Insolence of one of them, 153. — Difficulty of the Primates, and conduct of Captain Hamilton, 154, 155.— Protest of General Roche and Mr. Washington, 156 — 158. — Remarks on the protest, 159. — Reply of the Greek government, 160. — Great Britain and Greece, 161 — 164.

Chapter XV

Wanton destruction of columns, 166. — Tino — Houses — Dress, 167. — Smyrna — Alarm of fire, 168. — Greek artist, 169. — Interesting female, 170. — Arrival of Trelawny and his wife, 171. — Particulars of the affray in the cave, 172. — Another fire — Missionary to the Jews, 173. — Hospitality of Captain Hamilton, 174. — Singular privileges on board " the Gallie," 175 — 178. — Vourla — French and Austrians, 178. — American squadron — Massacre at Scio, 179. — Anecdote of Odysseus, 180. — Reported insurrection in Candia, 181. — The brother of Odysseus, 182. — Success ofthe Greeks, 183. — Greek expedition to Alexandria, 1 84. — Conspiracy against Trelawny, 1 85. — Wife of Odysseus, 1 86. — Engagement between the Greeks and Turks, 187. — Failure of the expedition to Alexandria, 1 88. — Conduct of two Turkish Pachas, 1 89. — Antique bass-relief, 190. — Difficulty of procuring it, 191. — Cheating not peculiar to the Greeks, 192. — Motley group on board the Cambrian, 193.— Personal appearance of Ali Pacha, 194. — Treatment of him by the Greeks, 195. — Modon — Fortress — Description of the country, 196.— Pacha of Modon — Thunder-storm, 197. — Dishonourable use of a French vessel, 198. — Exchange of prisoners — .M. Jourdain, 199.

Chapter XVI

Scardamoula — Kitries, 201. — Personal appearance of Pietro Bey, 202— Residence of Pietro Bey, 203.— Description of CONTENTS. XIII Kitries, 204. — Entertainment by Pietro Bey, 205. — Sleeping apartment — Singular scene, 206, 207. — Family misfortunes of Pietro Bey, 208, 209.— Set out for Calamata, 210.— Calamata — Figs — Thunder-storm, 211. — Appearance of the country — Greek women, 212. — Opinion of the Greeks of the English, 213. — Servant of Pietro Bey — Dispute with a smith, 214. — Songs of Greek women — Agiophora, 215. — Rencontre with Greek soldiers, 216. — Behaviour of the Greeks towards the Turks, 217.— Reported death of Ibrahim Pacha, 218.— Mount Ithone — Ruined cottage, 219. — Scenery of Greece, 220. — Turkish encampment — Carytena — Megalopolis, 221.—. Rencontre with another Greek party, 222.— Approach to Tripolitza — Turkish commandant, 223. — Wretched condition of Tripolitza, 224.— Hospitality of the commandant of Tripo litza, 225. — Appearance of the country, 226.' — Rencontre with Greek soldiers, 227. — Fine scene for Salvator, 228. — Devasta tions of the Turks, 229. — Bruliah — Pendedactylon — Mistra, 230.— The Eurotas— Sparta— The Acropolis, 231. —The burning of Mistra, 232. — Change in the arrangements of the party, 233. — Dying Arabs — Devastations, 234.— Engagement be tween the Turks and Greeks, 235 — Miserable condition of the Turkish army, 236. — Personal appearance of Ibrahim Pacha, 237.— Negotiation with the Pacha, 238—242.

Chapter XVII

Conference with Ibrahim Pacha, 244. — Surrender of a Greek fortress, 245. — Personal appearance of Suleiman Bey, 246. — Rencontre with Greeks and Turkish women, 247. — Ancient church— Alarm, 248. — Mistra — Description of the country, 249. — Grand prospect — Useful Papas, 250. — Taygetus — Tepe — Langada, 251 Magnificent pass of Langada, 252 — Excellent repast — Cultivation, 253. — Mountain scenery, 254. — Cultivation — Tremendous storm, 255. — Dangers of the journey, 256. — Distance of the journey, 257. — Behaviour of the Greeks in our journey, 258. — Debasing effects of slavery, 259, 260. — General character of the Greeks, 261. — Debasing effects of slavery, 262. — Anecdotes of Mr. and Mrs. Trelawny, CONTENTS. 263, 264.— Sapientza— Shipwreck there, 265. — Appearance of a comet, 266. — English brig — French captain, 267. — Conclusion of the journal, 268, 269. ESSAY ON THE FANARIOTES. PAGE The Translator's Preface 273 The Author's Preface 277

Chapter I

Origin of the Fanariotes — Of the Grammaticos — Creation of the dignity of Drogoman to the Divan — Drogoman ofthe Marine — Elevation of the Drogoman of the Divan to the Hospodariate — Employments reserved for the Native Boyars and Mussulmans — Places given by the Hospodar to the Fanariote Boyars — The Hospodar at Constantinople — His policy — His arrival at Bucharest — His reception — Particulars of his mode of acting and living — Ofthe Native Boyars — their expenses — Their love of luxury — Of the Fanariote Boyars — Counsels which they give their Prince — Conduct of the Hospodar in his government — The wife of the Prince — Her revenues — Rapacity of the Boyars — Misfortunes of the people of Moldavia 281

Chapter II

Of the Bache Capi Kiahaya, or representative of the Prince at Constantinople — Fanariote intrigues 315

Chapter III

Influence of the Fanariote party on the destiny of the Greeks — Discourse on this topic with the Archbishops Nieomedias, Dhercon, Sophias, and Thessalonicis— Confidence of the Greeks in this party— Mania of the Greeks tor changing their patronymics. CONTENTS. XV PAGE

Chapter IV

Deposition of the Hospodars — Their return to Constantinople — Their mode of living there — What they do to recover their power — Their exile — Of Prince Suzzo 351

Chapter V

Of the Fanariote Boyars, after the deposition of their Prince •—Education of their sons — Counsels of the Hospodar to his sons — Education of the Fanariote women — Divorce unjustly instigated — Fanariote peculiarities 358 CONCLUSIONS DRAWN FROM THE PRECEDING CHAPTERS. Primitive nothingness of the Fanariotes — Quick elevation of the Fanariotes — Policy of the Sublime Porte in raising the Fanariotes to the Hospodariate — Motives which have induced the Sublime Porte to close its eyes on the tyranny of the Fanariote Hospodars — Reflections on the reunion of the Eastern and Western Churches — General reflections on the Revolution of 1821 — Probabilities of its success — What mode of government would best suit the Greeks — On whom their choice ought to fall, should Greece become a monarchy — Fears with which the Fanariotes ought to inspire the Greeks r ERRATA.

VOL. I. Page 174, line 4 from bottom, for Peleon read Pelion 188, — 4 from bottom, for son read son-in-law 189, — 5, for father read father-in-law 244, — 3 from bottom, for manekin read manikin 837, — last, for conscentia read conscientia VOL. II. Page 70, line 2 from bottom, for omenous read ominous — 75, — 12, for dumfounded read dumbfounded 80, — 11, for I forgot read I have forgot 115, — 12, for Bobalina read Bobolino ■ 131, — 5 from bottom, for Fanarcotes read Fanariotes 161, — 6, for Vironne et Leiback read Verone et Laybach — — 175, — 6, for Guenara read Guevara A J O U R N A L, #c. 4-c.

Chapter I

We lost sight of England on the 12th of Oc tober, 1824. Captain Fox, a son of Lord Holland, with his lady, a daughter of his Royal Highness the Duke of Clarence ; Mr. Tennant, a relative of my Lord Yarborough ; his me dical attendant; and a Mr. Hall, were cabin passengers : a son of General Slade also par took of the gun-room mess. Sunday, 17 th Oct. — This morning the ser vice of the church was performed on the main deck. I observed, with pleasure, the attention of the seamen ; who were, for the most part, regular in making the responses. About three o'clock p.m. we came in sight of tlie coast of Portugal ; the royal palace of Mafra was dis tinctly perceptible, together with the town of Cintra. White houses glittering in the sun, VOL. I. B AMUSEMENT ON BOARD. united with the convent-crested granite rock, formed a sweetly picturesque object from the ship.

Monday, 18th Oct. — Passed Cape St. Vin cent and Sagras about ten o'clock this morning ; the ship running before the wind. In Moore's words : " The sea was like an azure lake, And o'er its calm the vessel glides Gently, as if it fear'd to wake The anger of the slumb'ring tides." Towards evening the wind totally subsided ; and a sky radiant as the imagination could picture, gratified the sight. A broad golden line was thrown by the setting sun upon the waters ; while the small barks (some of which were distinguished by the triangular felucca sail) moved slowly and gracefully along. On the Spanish coast Cape St. Maria presented itself with the mountains of Moncheque, en veloped in a soft blue mist. The porpoise gamboled around the ship, as the sailors did within it. The fiddle put the limbs of the crew in motion, while the band on the quarter deck was employed in facilitating the officers' CADIZ— SPANISH PILOT. 3 execution of quadrilles.

Mrs. Fox joined in them with much spirit. Tuesday, 19th Oct. — The wind becoming contrary during the night, we were driven back to the South coast of Portugal, and came within a few miles of Faro, a city of some magnitude. We observed the cathedral very distinctly. Friday, 22d Oct. — The continuation of ad verse winds induced the captain to put into Cadiz. At some distance from the town we took up a Spaniard. He had a singularly in telligent countenance ; and his round hat of grey cloth, blue naval jacket, and scarlet sash tied tightly to the waist, presented an object which pleased perhaps from its novelty. A signal gun being sired for a pilot, a boat put off from the shore, and brought out a little fat man, whose appearance indicated a deep feel ing of self-importance, which was rendered truly ridiculous by his diminutive height and oleaginousness* .

Cadiz has an imposing as- * In a country of olives and olive-yards, perhaps such a word may be admissible. The term is not a bad one; and describes well enough the oily sudatory character of the Spanish countenance not uncommon amongst the lower orders. B CADIZ— SPANISH PILOT. pect from the sea. Its regularly built houses of white stone shine gaily in the sun ; and in addition to this, the numerous fleet of ships stationed off the town — some with their sails set, others at interspersed with a variety of feluccas, cruising up and down on the beautiful morning of our arrival, were ex* tremely enlivening. The fat pilot, on being desired to allow as much time as possible for the crew to take their wine, (such is the liberal establishment ofthe British navy !) with much of his country's haughtiness, replied, " that they would have time enough to take it after wards," colouring at the same moment to the very brow, even through the dinginess of his sun-burnt complexion.

It seemed to me a characteristic introduction to the land and the people — to that people who formerly required the Persian monarch, when addressing their king, to superscribe his epistles, — " au roi qui a le soleil pour chapeau*/' Se veral French men of war are stationed off Cadiz; and a French garrison, we are told, is quartered in the town. * See Moreri. CADIZ— CATHEDRAL. Saturday, 23d Oct. — I arose this morning at an early hour, that I might the more speedily gratify my curiosity in Cadiz. The approach to this place from the water is fine, and of a kind altogether new. The uniform and white-washed fronts of the houses, sur mounted generally by a small turret, have a particularly pleasing effect, and render Cadiz a great attraction to foreigners. The first thing that struck me after passing the batteries, was the market.

The peculiar cries of the venders of fruit and poultry, with their not less peculiar appearance, operated powerfully upon my ri sible faculties. Wandering along at random, I accidentally turned into the old magnificent cathedral of Cadiz ; which is, and, I under stand, has long been, in a state ol repair. A great length of time must elapse before its com pletion, which, indeed, may never take place : for the distresses brought upon the town by the revolution, have exhausted the funds of the ecclesiastics, not less than the property of the citizens. As much as they have done, however, to this building, is singularly beautiful. It displays much classical taste ; and its execution equals the design. CONVENT OF THE AUGUSTINES. From hence I turned to the convent of the Augustines. A number of females were offering up their orisons — such at least ought to have been their employment.

But though their " lips moved, there was war in the heart/' One damsel knelt before a small crucifix — her arms folded, so as to bring the fan which was contained in her right hand into pretty good play. This genial weapon, the auxiliary of love or war, was kept in constant motion ; while her eyes, rambling about as much as the position of the body would admit, were at tracted to every object, save that which it might have been presumed she was contemplat ing. Another, almost illimitable in bulk, with the utmost difficulty, " screwed" herself up to a " sticking-place." She reached, with laud able exertion, the very steps of the altar, and there, as overcome by the unusual effort, squatted motionless on the ground. This is a common posture, and seems, among innumerable others, the remains of Moorish habits.

Like all the buildings of Roman Catholic worship, the one in question (which is the chapel ofthe Augustine monastery) is adorned with a bewildering profusion of gold and silver RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES. 7 " wax, stone, wood," &c. : and unquestionably is " wondrous fine." But the impression left upon my mind was, that their devotion had converted the temple of the Deity into a toyshop — the women into arrant coquettes, not to say worse; and the men into bigots. The mummery, so universally practised here, was disgusting enough; and seems to me the very last stage of a confirmed idiotcy. In consecrating the host, we remark that the priest first bows to the crucifix, then elevates the cup as if to examine whether the expected liquid begins to flow, and how far it has risen. By and bye his hand is extended toward the crucifix, and wafted backwards and forwards from the cross to the cup, with the intent, as well as one can judge, of transferring the holiness of the relic to the wine he is about to administer.

To this succeed bows and bell-ringing, touching of noses and chins and breasts, which last is understood to typify the cross. Representations of saints, angels, virgins, and cherubs in every state and stage of beauty and deformity may here be met with ; the most unhappy " pagod looking things" by the side of the ecstatic, downcast, dreary countenance of the blessed IMAGES. virgin, or beatified saint. One of the latter I noticed elevating his head a considerable distance above his shoulders; and another, who was transfixed with nearly a dozen arrows ; judging by the placid expression of the mar t}'r's face, this might have been the pleasantest thing in the world. A multitude of weeping Magdalenes, bedizened in the finest apparel, meet the eye at every turn ; and their sorrow touched aspects, besmeared with a sufficiency of oil, give them a most sudatory character ; and this, I apprehend, is intended : the agony of their souls is presumed to facilitate a copious sweat, and to typify the exudation of mortal sin !