Backsheesh! or, Life and Adventures in the Orient. With descriptive and humorous sketches. ... With ... illustrations, etc

Front matter

HE STORY TELLER OF THE DESERT. BACKSHEESH! CK Life and Adventures IN THE ORIENT WITH DESCRIPTIVE AND HUMOROUS SKETCHES OF SIGHTS AND SCENES OVER THE ATLANTIC, DOWN THE DANUBE, THROUGH THE CRIMEA ; IN TURKEY, GREECE, ASIA-MINOR, SYRIA, PALESTINE, AND EGYPT; UP THE NILE, IN NUBIA, AND EQUATORIAL AFRICA, ETC, ETC. Embellished with nearly Two Hundred and Fijty Illustrations, including Forty-Eight full page Engravings, principally executed in London, Paris, and New York, from Photographs and original Sketches. With fine Steel-Plate Portrait of the Author. By THOMAS W. KNOX, Author of "Camp-Fire and Cotton Field," "Overland through Asia," "Underground," etc. HARTFORD, CONN.: A. D. WORTHINGTON & Co., PUBLISHERS. Chicago, Cincinnati, and St. Louis: A. G. Nettleton & Co, San Francisco: A. L. Bancroft & Co. 1875- Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1875, by A. D. WORTHINGTON & CO., In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C AUTHOR'S

Preface

. The following pages are the result of a peaceful crusade to the East, undertaken for purposes of pleasure and profit. The author has en deavored to combine the humorous features of the journey with the store of useful knowledge that should be the result of a tour through the Orient. He trusts that he has so combined them that both will be satisfactory, and that the reader will be amused while seeking instruction and instructed while seeking amusement. There is a story of an honest old Quaker resident of Philadelphia, who sent his son to make the tour of Europe. The young man determined to see all that could be seen, and gave his whole mind to the search for enjoyment. When he returned from his travels his father said : "John, thou hast been absent a twelvemonth and past, and thou hast drawn on me for eighteen thousand dollars.

John, that is a great deal of money for thee to spend in one year." "I know it, father," was the young man's response, "but I have had lots of fun for that money." In return for the labor and fatigue incident to Oriental travel, the author believes that he found an ample reward in the entertainment and information which the journey afforded. The author is glad to avail himself of this opportunity to express the gratification he feels at seeing his book so profusely and artistically illustrated. In this department of the work the publishers have displayed their enterprise and liberality in such a creditable manner, as to justly entitle them, not only to the author's grateful acknowledg ments, but to the hearty thanks of all who may read his book. He would also return his thanks to the artists and engravers, who have so skilfully designed and executed the illustrations, many of which were drawn and engraved in London and Paris, expressly for this vol ume.

Finally he would thank most cordially the many gentlemen in the various countries he visited who gave him the benefit of their personal eftXperience and observation. Their names are too numerous to be included in this preface, and their nationalities comprise nearly all the civilized countries of the globe. T. W. K. Principally designed, or reproduced from photographs, by Karl Giradet, C. Faguet, Frank Beard, James C. Beard, Arthur Lumley, L. Hopkins, and other eminent artists, and mostly engraved by Messrs. Holler, Pannemaker, Laplante, Gusmand, Gauchard, and other noted engravers of Paris; by W. J. Palmer, and the London Illustration Company, of London; and by Charles Speigle, of New York. Page. i. Steel-Plate Portrait of the Author Frontispiece. 2. The Story-Ttller of the Desert- Full Page To face Frontispiece. 3.

Head Piece ▼ 4. Head Piece 'x 5. Tail Piece x**^i 6. Head Piece 32 7. Steamer Day 34 8. The Judge's First Day at Sea 35 9. The Judge's Second Day at Sea 36 10. The Race 39 11. The Judge 4° 11. A Practical Joke 44 1 j. Head Piece 48 14. Fraternizing 50 1 5. Eternal Friendship 51 16. Proof of the Affray 52 17. Avenging an Insult 54 18. "I must have a Duel" 55 19. An Imperial Wine Cellar 60 20. Head Piece 63 11. " Salt hy Yer" 68 22. The Snoring Match 69 23. The Doubter 7' 24. A Turkish " Hamal " 72 25. Tail Piece 77 26. Head Piece 78 27. Among the Fleas 79 28. A Toilet in Public 82 29. "Natives of the Country" 85 30. Precautionary Measures 86 31. "She is a Jewess" 89 32. The Palace Tshiragan 91 33. Head Piece 93 34. Shirking the Cemetery 97 35. "Fresh Paint" 100 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. V Pags. 36.

Driving a Bargain 104 37. A Night at Baidar 106 38. Caught in the Act 108 39. Tail Piece ■. 109 40. Head Piece no 41. Putting in his "Best Licks" 112 42. "Backsheesh" 113 43. An Impressive Scene 116 44. Constantinople from the Tower of Golata—V ull Page 116 45. Head Piece 123 46. A Street in Constantinople. 124 47. Strategy 126 48. The Reconnoitre 129 49. The Retreat 130 50. A Damas-cussed Dog 131 51. Stowing the Sandwiches '. 132 52. Admiring the Mosque 132 53. A Sudden Attack 132 54. The Pursuit r33 55. A Hopeless Chase 133 56. " Retrospection" lH 57. Tail Piece '35 58. Head Piece "35 59. ASedanChair '36 60. A Turkish Beauty J37 61. An Importunate Moslem '43 62. Extorting " Backsheesh" '44 63. Head Piece *. *45 64. End Of the Fast and Beginning of the Feast '4° 65. " Good-Bye, my Friend, Good-Bye" J48 66.

A Turkish "Cavass" '•• '49 67. Head Piece »SJ 68. Moslems at Prayer '54 69. " Bismillah" *JS 70. The"Duplicate" I57 71. Muezzin announcing the Hour of Prayer '5s 72. An Oriental Boot Jack l6° 73. Fartha, or Opening Chapter of the Koran l63 74. Tail Piece J°s 75. Head Piece l66 76. A Whirling Dervish I7° 77. Effect of too much Whirling I71 78. Howling as a Profession I7"E 79. Homœpathic Treatment I7S 80. Head Piece *77 81. Some of the Brothers of Far-Away Moses I7S 82. Interviewing a Purser "4 83. Head Piece ' 7 84. Head Piece I97 85. View of Athens and the Acropolis '" 86. The Decline of Greece 2CI 87. Greek Priest of Modern Times z°4 88. "Doing" the Ruins 2 89. Tail Piece -. "z 90. Head Piece 91. Sending Up the Ear of a Victim z'7 92. Head Piece ' • 93. Pickling the " Doubter" "9 94. " Backsheesh !"" Backsheesh I " VI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Pago. 95. Head Piece 236 96. Inspecting the Crew 241 97. Bad "Backsheesh."— "It was Counterfeit" 243 98. St. Jean D'Acre— "Full Page 249 99. A Tricky Beast 254 100. Beyrout and the Mountains of Lebanon— Full Page 2S7 101. "Mon Dieu I Is this the Party for Damascus ? " 262 102. Head Piece 264 103. The Cedars of Lebanon —Full Page 265 104. Cedar of Lebanon 270 105. Great Stone at Baalbek 272 106. Portal of the Temple of the Sun at Baalbek— F ull Page 275 107. Court of a House in Damascus 279 108. Moslem Women Weeping at a Tomb 282 109. Syrian Jew with Phylactery 285 no. A Money Changer in the Bazaar 288 in. Flat Roofed Houses— Damascus 291 112. Abd-el-Kader 293 113. We "Strip to ze buff" 296 114. " You will have all ze luxuries" 296 115. We Enter "Ze Bain Beautiful " 297 116. One of the Luxuries 297 117.

Softening the Asperities 298 118. A Hot One 298 119. " What is Curlew ? " 305 120. A Bedouin Encampment 308 121, A Bedouin of the Desert 309 122. The Terror of the Desert on his Arabian Charger 311 123. Buins of Palmyra— Full Page 315 124. Hebron— Full Page 319 125. Mount Carmel— Full Page 323 126. An Inhabited Boot, 325 127. Ploughing in Syria, 332 128. AU that remains of Capernaum, 334 129. "BacksheeBh! O Howadji!" 335 130. TheSeaof Tiberias— Full Page 337 131. Magdala, 339 132. Unhorsing the - Doubter," 3*z 133. Nazareth— Full Page J4S 134. Jews of Nazareth— F ull Page 349 135. A Syrian Water Bearer, 353 136. Jerusalem and Surrounding Country— -Full Page 359 137. Sidon— Full Page . ... 365 138. Tyre 3o8 139. Tail Piece, 360 140. Jaffa— Full Page J7I 141. Our Dragoman, Ali Soloman, 3_. 142.

"Backsheesh," ,7g 143. Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives— Full Page 377 144. Remains of an Ancient Arch, Showing a Portion of the Haram Wall, jgo 145. A Street in Jerusalem, 8l 146. Arched Street and Fountain, Jerusalem, ?g2 147. Principal Street of Jerusalem— Full Page 3g, 148. The Golden Gate, Jerusalem, \ gg 149. Interior of the Golden Gate, -g 150. Site of the Temple, Jerusalem, gg 151. Ancient Signet Ring, g 152. Ancient Signet Ring, s 153. Exploring the Substructions, LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VII Pace. -154. Underground— Beneath the City of Jerusalem— Full Page 391 155. The Valley of Jehoshaphat 393 .556. Wailing Place of the Jews, Jerusalem, 394 .157. Walls of the Church of the Presentation— Full Page 39; .158. Bethlehem— Full Page 399 159. Chinch of llie Nativity, Bethlehem— Full Page 405 160.

Monastery of Mar Saba— Full Page 409 161. A Formidable Escort, 414 162. Bathing Place of the Pilgrims on the Jordan— Full Page 417 163. The " Doubter's " Mishap, 420 164. The Mount of Olives— Full Page 4*3 165. Pool of Hezekiah, 416 166. West Door, Church of the Holy Sepulchre 417 1167. Church of the Holy Sepulchre— Full Page 429 168. The Fountain of the Virgin, 433 .169. "'Doubter' — Sixpence," 436 370. Jaffa Orange Seller, '. 438 371. Tail Piece 439 J72. Water Bearers at the Railway Station, Cairo, 447 173. Praying in the Streets of vjairo, 448 174. Cairo— Full Page 449 175. Massacre of the Mamalukes— Full Page 455 176. Ismail Pasha, Khedive of Egypt, 458 177. A Tough One, 459 -178. Head Piece 468 179. Tombs of the Sultans— Cairo— Full Page 469 180. " O Ye Thirsty," 472 .181. Children Bread Sellers in the Streets of Cairo, 473 . 182.

Mosque of the. Sultan Hassan, al Cairo— Full Page 475 '483. Young Street Arabs of Cairo, 477 184. Shoe Peddler in the Bazaar, 479 185. Latticed Windows— Cairo, 480 186. An Auctioneer in the Bazaars, 485 187. A Syce, 489 188. Donkey Drivers of Cairo— Full Page 491 189. Not up to the Dodge, 494 190. An Egyptian Eunuch 496 191. An Arab School— Full Page 5°3 192. Ceremony of the Doseh, S'° 193- A Shadoof for Drawing Water from the Nile— F ull Page 5'5 .194. Climbing the Pyramid 518 19s. The Ascent of the Judge, 520 196. An Arab Feat, S22 197. The Sphinx and the Great Pyramid of Cizeh— Full Page S23 198. A Nile Boat 53° 199. TheSerapeum — Memphis— Full Page 537 200. Landing Place at Beni-Soef—Vull "tage 545 201. SngarCane Sellerat Minieh 54° 202. An Inconvenient Position, Hz 203. Siout— Upper Egypt— Vn\\ Page s5! 204.

"Nargeeleh," ss7 205. Siout Egg Merchant ss8 •206. Egyptian Gamblers, 5S9 207. " Aoz, Eh ?" -. 56' 208. "Dusting" for " Backsheesh," s^ 209. An Egyptian Ghawazee, s°9 210. Ghawazee and Musicians, *"71 911. An Egyptian Musician, 5**4 -212. Egyptian Water Carriers Filling their Jars— Full Page S7** LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VIII Page. 213. Ruins of the Temple of Denderah, Upper Egypt— Full Page 579 214. Entrance to the Temple of Luxor— -Full Page 587 215. The Memnonium and the Ruined Statue— Full Page 593 216. Sitting Colossi, s95 217. A Fresh One, 599 118. Interior of a Harem— Vail Page 6°I 219. A Murderous Assault, -^ 6°7 220. A Nubian Belle, 221. A Nubian Lady 6l° 222. An Egyptian Sakkieh, for Drawing Water from the Nile— Vull Page 611 223. An Affectionate Beast 6l3 224. Luxuries of Camel Riding 6l5 225.

Egyptian God Osiris '• °17 226. Egyptian Goddess Isis 6l8 227. Island of Philæ, or Sacred Island— Full Page 6l9 228. Sacred Lotus of the Egyptians- Full Page 6z7 229. Modern Egyptian Gristmill 63° 230. A Nubian Warrior D32 231. Papyrus of the Egyptians- -Full Page 633 232. Biting the Dust 64' 233. Women of Cairo— Full Page 65s 234. Bread Seller in the Streets of Cairo 6S9 235. A Lady of the Harem 662 236. An Egyptian Barber 665 237. Alexandria— Full Page <*>7i 238. Court of a House in Egypt, 673 239. A Bedouin Encampment near Cairo 675 240. The Madonna Tree, 676 241. Boot Blacks of Cairo, 679 242. Mosque of Sultan Berkook, and Fountain of Ismail Pasha, at Cairo, 682 243. Modern Egyptian Oven, 683 244. Palace of the Viceroy, near Alexandria— F ull Page CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Steamer Life On The Atlantic

Leaving Home — Our Pilgrimage Begun — Sights and Scenes on Deck — " Life on the Ocean Wave " — Out at Sea — The Traveller's Little World — Feeling Queer Inside ! — Delights of Sea-Sickness — Reminiscences of a Jolly Old Boy — What Became of the Judge — Bringing up his Liver ! — Too Big for his Berth — Sleeping in a Second-Hand Coffin — A Race with a Lemon — The Leg of Mutton Dance — Eccentric Conduct of a Boiled Turkey — Too Much Sauce ! — "Dressing " the Judge's Trowsers — Alone at Sea — A Funny Conspiracy — Fate of a Timid Man — Confidence Betrayed — The Young Man from the Country — His Wisdom and his Woes — Drinking Petroleum — The Judge Turns Joker — Who Owns the Ocean Steamers,

Chapter II. Scenes In Vienna

— DOWN THE DANUBE. On English Ground — The Road to the East — Life in the Austrian Capital — Fun and Festivity— Visit to the Big Beer-Garden — Effects of Champagne — Animated Conversation — How Twenty Thousand Dollars were Spent — The Man with the Torn Vest— Headaches at a Discount— Yankees in a Row — A Pugnacious Russian — "Quits," but not Satisfied — Challenging an X CONTENTS. American — The Fashionable World — Down the Danube — Scenes on the River — How Austrian Cigars are Made — An Imperial Tobacco Dealer — The Battle of Wagram — Castle of Presburg — We Enter Hungary — An Evening in a Wine Cellar — Want of a Little Soap — Night Scene on the Danube, 48

Chapter III. Life Among The Magyars

-A City of Renown — Overwhelmed by the Floods — Lying in Clover — What I Saw in the Hungarian Capital — "The Poor Folks' Bath" — Rather Warm Quarters — Life Among the Magyars — The "Miffs" of an Imperial Couple — Her Majesty's Choice — A Model Captain — Charles Matthews and the Bowery Boy — Facts and Fancies of a Snoring Match — The "Judge" and the ""Doubter" — The Man who Wouldn't Believe — Who were the "Hamals," and What They Did — People in Strange Garments — Baggy Breeches versus Slop — The Fortress of Belgrade — Servia, and What I Saw of Its People — The Assassination of Prince Miloch — Rather Bad for Poetry, - - - 63

Chapter IV

NEAR1NG THE ORIENT.— " BACKSHEESH !" -Among the Fleas — The Mystery of the Bedclothes — A Cool Explanation — Under the Spray — What Became of the Dragon — A Queer Story about Flies — What Is an "Araba?" — Conversation without Words — Changing Shirts in Public — The Iron Gate — Scene at the Custom-House — Official Obstinacy — The "Sick Man" — Scenes in the Orient — The Mysteries of the ■Quarantine — How we Dodged the Turks — The Turk and his Rosary — Pity the Poor Israelite ! — Why an Unlucky Jewess was Whipped — The Secret of the Turkish Loan — How the Money is Spent — Ten Million Dollars Gone! — What is "Backsheesh?" 7g

Chapter V. Through Tiie Crimea

— IN AND AROUND SEVASTOPOL. A Visit to the Crimea — The Porter with the Big Books — The Danger of Siberia—Our Entry into Sevastopol — Terrible Reminiscences ofthe Crimean CONTENTS. XI War— How we Shirked the Cemetery— The Great Dock- Yard of Sevasto pol — We Visit a Remarkable Gunboat — What we Saw Below-Deck — The Story that our Landlord Told — An Enterprising Tartar — The " Doubter " Offers an Opinion — How the "Judge" Stole a Newspaper— Adventures by the Way— The " Doubter " gets into Trouble— We Fly to the Rescue- Eccentricities of a Selfish Man — We Rise and Depart, .... 03

Chapter VI. Across The Black Sea

A Visit to a Russian Police Office— Smith, and What he Did— A Bad Lot of Passports — A Race after a Governor in a Drosky — More " Backsheesh" — Delicate Administration of a Bribe — An Obliging Subordinate — Attempt at a Swindle — Scraping an Acquaintance — High Life on the Black Sea — Muscovite Ladies — Sunrise on the Euxine — Worshipping the Sun — Stamboul — Passing Quarantine — On the Bosphorus — A Magnificent Spectacle — The Castle of Europe — Palaces and Villas — Domes and Minarets — The Golden Horn — In Front of Constantinople — Rapacity of Boatmen — Turkish Thieves — Streets of the City, no

Chapter VII. Constantinople

— THE CITY OF DOGS. Human Camels — Canine Colors — The Dogs of Istamboul — Their Appearance and Moral Character — How the Turks Regard Them — "Inshallah" — Constantinopolitan Dogsologies — An Oriental Dog-Fight — Sagacious Brutes — Cultivating Canine Society — "Standing Treat" among the Curs — Four- Footed Campaigns — Dog-Districts — The Hostile Armies — A Brilliant Strategic Move — Charge of the Light (Dog) Brigade — Advance of the Chef de Garbage— The "Army of the West" in Retreat— The "Doubter's " Mishap — Full Details of a Coat's Detailing — An Israelite in whom there was Guile — No More Sandwiches for Me, Sir-r-r, .... CONTENTS.

Chapter VIII Turkish Curiosity

SHOPS— SIGHTS AND SCENES IN THE BAZAARS. Locomotion in Constantinople — Horses, Donkeys, Shanks' Mare and Sedan Chairs — Turkish Street Cars — Women in Public — The Veiled Queens of Seraglios — The Drugs of the Orient — Henna and its Uses — Ottar of Roses, Musk and Bergamot — Shawls and Silks of Price — The Treasures of Ormus and of Ind — The Workers in Precious Metals — Vases of Gold and Platters of Silver — An Aureole of Gems — Loot for Soldiers and Swag for Burglars — The Weapons of Ancient Islam — Blades of Damascus and Swords of Mecca — A Wonderful Collection — Old Clothes and New Truck — A Seedy Moslem Swindler — An Exorbitant " Backsheesh " — What Happened to the Judge — A Dispenser of Justice in the Lockup, 135

Chapter IX. Life In The Harem

— MYSTERIES OF THE SERAGLIO. The Great Moslem Fast — Nights of Feasting and Days of Fasting — The Injunction of Mahomet — The Ravenous Mussulman — An Hotel Swindle— A Stranger and they Took Him In—" Too Thin, Too Thin"— Greek Wine- Going Out in a Blaze of Glory — Thunder, Smoke, and Flame — The Approach of the Sultan — How he Looked — A Peep at the Ladies of the Harem — The Veiled Queens — The Sultan's Mother — The Empress Eugenie at the Seraglio — Insult Offered to Eugenie — A Queen in Tears — A Question of Court Etiquette — Murdering Christians, ..... ,.,.

Chapter X. The Mosques

— FAITH AND SUPERSTITIONS OF THE MUSSULMANS. Among the Mosques— Their Special Uses— Greek Burglars, their Capture and Execution— A "Firman," What Is It— A Turkish Dragoman— A Relic CONTENTS. XIII of Ancient Byzantium — Its Name and Origin — Taking a Portrait — Turkish Superstitions — Worshipping in St. Sophia— Moslem Fanatics— Counting The Minarets— What Came of a Wet Pair of Boots— The Judge in a Tight Place — The " Doubter " Commits Sacrilege — Uncovering a Sarcophagus — Attacked by the Priests — Barefooted Worshippers— Teachings of the Koran — Cleanliness and Temperance — Why Turkish Women Do Not Go to the Mosques — Why Good Mussulmans Never Get Drunk, - - - 153

Chapter XI. Whirling And Howling Dervishes

— WHO AND WHAT THEY ARE. The Dervishes of Constantinople, What Are They ? — How they Live and What they Do — Unclean and Devout Beggars — Where they Bury their Dead — Opening their Circus — Removing the "Doubter's" Boots — An Amusing Situation — Clearing the Floor — Human Top-Spinning — Dropping into Jelly-Bags — A Pliable Lot of Living Corpses — The Howling Dervishes — Where and How they Live — A House Full of Madmen— A Shrieking Chant—" La Hah il Allah "—Stirring Up the Wild Beasts— Spectators Joining in the Chorus — Horrible Superstitious Rites — Treading on Sick Children — Reaching Paradise by Bodily Tortures — A Sad Disappointment — The Founder of the Sect, and who he Was — Pulling Teeth as a Proof of Sanctity, - 166

Chapter XII. Good-bye

CONSTANTINOPLE!— ADVENTURES BY THE WAY. Far- Away Moses, the Famous Guide — His Numerous Brothers — His Shop in the Great Bazaar — An Evening at the "Foreign Club"— Dreaming of Polyglots and the Tower of Babel— More " Backsheesh "—Passing the Custom- House — How they Protect Home Manufactures — Standing Up for One's Own Country— " Honesty ish te Besht Bolicy "—Borrowing Money at Twenty per Cent.— The Start from Constantinople— A Hint to Travellers- Sleeping in Public on the Stage— Interviewing the Purser— A Satisfactory Arrangement — Baron Bruck and his Career — Unwelcome Intruders — Classic Ground — One Trifling Peculiarity, CONTENTS.

Chapter XIII. Syra, The Marble Island

— LIFE IN AN ATHENIAN HOTEL. In sight of Syra — Active Trade in one Fish — A town all Built of Marble — The " Doubter" Expresses his Sentiments — Gustave's Adventure — Walking on One's Ear — "A little more beer, boy!"— The Pirates' Retreat — Extraordinary Politeness in a Cafe — A lesson for American Barkeepers — In the Stamboul's Cabin — " Blowing great guns" — A Tale of a Tub — Honey and Marble — Standing in the City of Demosthenes — The Battle of the Rival Hotels — Profanity in an Unknown Tongue — Out-generaling Inn-keepers — Tricks on Travellers — Useful Knowledge for Foreign Travel, - - - 187

Chapter XIV. Athens, Ancient And

MODERN— SIGHTS AND SCENES IN THE GRECIAN CAPITAL. First Impressions of Athens — Opinion of the " Doubter" — " Not Worth Damming" — The Oldest Inhabitant of Athens — Celebrated Ruins — Reminiscences of Greek Grammar — A "Big Injun" on Greek — Drinking Beer on Sacred Soil — A Toper-graphical Survey — The Acropolis — What Is It ? — The Temple of Jupiter Olympus — Seven Hundred Years in Building — A Young Englishman in a Scrape — Sunset from the Acropolis — Byron's Glorieus Lines— The Parthenon and its Surroundings — Foundations of the Ancient Citadel — Excavations of Antiquarians — Greek Art — An Important Discovery — The Line of Beauty, -----.. joy

Chapter XV. Round About Athens

— THE COUNTRY OF THE BRIGANDS. Mars' Hill, the Place where St. Paul Preached on the Unknown God — The Prison of Socrates— The Country of the Brigands— Escorted by Greek Sol- CONTENTS. XV 225. diers — Captures by the Brigands — How they Treat Captives — Extorting Ransoms — Buying Coins and Relics — Swindling Travellers — Among the Ruins — Strange Contrasts — "Chaffing" the Guide — Position of the Per sian and Grecian Hosts — Xerxes' Throne — " The King Sate on the Rocky Brow " — Making the Ascent by Proxy — " I No Go ze Mountain " — The Battle of Marathon — A Survivor of the Battle — How the Victory was Won, 21$

Chapter XVI. The Glory Of Athens

— ITS SIGHTS, SCENES, RUINS, AND RELICS. The Opera at Athens — Handsome Greeks — The King and Queen — A Lovely Trio — Losing a Heart — Byron's "Maid of Athens" — How She Looked — Her House and History — The Acropolis by Moonlight — Waking the Guard — A Sham Permit — "Backsheesh" — The Parthenon by Night — Greek Gypsies — Among the Curiosity Shops — Dr. Schliemann and his Trojan Discoveries — The Gold and Silver Vases of King Priam — Where they were Found — Relics of the Sack of Troy — Curious Workmanship — Some Account of the Excavations — We Leave Athens — A Queer Steamer — " Pay or Go to Prison " — End of Our Steamship Adventure,

Chapter XVII. Adventures In Quarantine

— RHODES AND ITS MARVELS. Missing our Steamer — A Serious Dilemma— A Study of Faces — Making a Row and What Came of It— Under the Yellow Flag — Adventures of a Quarantined Traveller— Escaping the Plague— Mal-de-Mer— A Laughable Incident— Getting on our Sea-Legs— Custom-House Troubles— The Potency of "Backsheesh" — Oriental Fashions in New York — "Doing "a Custom-House Inspector— A Curious Tradition— The "Lamb" as aTrade Mark— The Temple of Diana— One of the " Seven Wonders "—Singular Discoveries— A Horde of Scoundrels— The Island of Rhodes— The Colossus -A Wonderful City— The Knights of St. John— Their Exploits— Surrendering to the Turks, 23* CONTENTS.

Chapter XVIII. Syria, The Land Of The Sun

— DRAGOMEN, GUIDES, ' AND COURIERS. A Rough Night on Shipboard — A Sea-Sick Turk — What he Said — Rum and Petroleum — Meditations on Turkish Hash — The Camel, his Tricks and Uses — A Knowing Brute — How he Shirks a Burden — George Smith, the Assyrian Savan — Beyrout — Its Antiquities and Wonders — Going on Shore — The Dragoman and his Office — Eastern Guides and their Character — Travelling on Horseback in Syria — The Road to Damascus — An Unexpected Trouble — Paying Fare by Weight — Disadvantages of a Heavy " Party "—A Trial of Wits— Waking up the Judge— Telling White Lies— The " Doubter's " Predicament, 252

Chapter XIX. The Groves Of Lebanon

— A NIGHT AMONG THE ARABS. The " Sights " of Beyrout — Excursion to Dog River — An Obstinate Carriage- Owner — How he was " Euchred " — Moral of this Incident — Off for Damascus — Ascending Mt. Lebanon — An Arab Driver — Cultivating " Kalil ", our Jehu— The Cedars of Lebanon— A Grove as Old as Solomon's Temple— A Wonderful Old City— The Temple of the Sun— Mystery of Tadmor— Cyclopean Masonry— Monstrous Monoliths— Their Dimensions— The "Doubter's" Doubts and their Solution— Sleeping in an Arab House — What we Saw There— Divans as Couches— A Dangerous Valley— The Robber's Haunt, 2g .

Chapter XX. Damascus

— THE GARDEN CITY OF THE EAST. Dimitri and his Hotel— Court-Yards and Fountain— How People Live in Damascus— Parlors, Bed-Rooms and Boudoirs— A Bet and its Decision— CONTENTS. XVII 300 S^The "Doubter and his Donkey"— The Street called "Straight"— Bab- Shurky — Spots Famous in History — Shaking Hands across a Street — Scene of St. Paul's Conversion — The Window of Escape — Tombs of Mohammed's Wives — The " Doubter " Figuring on Probabilities — An Unexpected Upset — Visiting the Leper's Hospital— A Frightful Spectacle — The Great Mosque — View from the Minaret — The Bazaars and Curiosity Shops — Making a Trade — A Case of Fraud, 278

Chapter XXI. Syrian Life

— DEALERS IN HUMAN FLESH.— WE TRY "ZE LUXURIES OF ZE BATH." In the Slave-Market— A Dealer in Human Flesh— A Stealthy Trade— Examining Female Slaves — Serfdom in Syria — Inside Views of a Syrian Household — Jewish Houses — An Oriental Song — Smoking with the Ladies — Syrian Customs — A Famous Arab Chief— Visiting Abd-el-Kader's House — The City of the Caliphs— Taking a Bath — Mohammed and his Trowsers — A New Species of Cushion — The Bath-House — Disrobing — Securing our Valuables — Moslem Honesty — Sitting Down in a Hot Place — Gustave's Misadventure — Undergoing a Shampoo — Rubbed to a Jelly — The Couch of Repose — A Delicious Sensation — "All ze Luxuries," .... 290

Chapter XXII. Travelling In

A CARAVAN.— SIGHTS ON THE WAY. Turning our Faces Eastward — The Land of the Sun — Palmyra, Bagdad, and Babylon — The Desert in Summer and Winter — A Dangerous Road — The Robbers of the Wilderness — Ruins in the Desert — A City of Wonders — The Haunts of the Bedouins — Engaging an Escort — The Start fur Palmyra — On a Dromedary's Back — The Environs of Damascus — A Bed on the Sand — " Every One to his Taste " — A Knavish Governor — Winking at Robbery — In the Desert — On the great Caravan Track — Caravansaries, What Are they ? — The High Road to India — An Arab Fountain, CONTENTS. 3°7 3i8

Chapter XXIII. Tent-life Among The Bedouins

— THE WARRIORS OF THE DESERT. Among the Bedouins — A Genuine Son of the Desert — High-Toned Robbers — A Sample of Bedouin Hospitality — Etiquette in an Arab Encampment — A Case of Insult — Tent-Life and its Freedom — A Nation of Cavalry- Warriors — Bedouin Dress, Manners and Customs — Their Horses and Weapons — A Singular Custom — A Caricature Steed and his Rider — Arab Scare- Crows — On the Road to Palmyra — A Mountain of Ruins — The Grand Colonnade — The Temple of the Sun — A Building Half a Mile in Circumference — An Earthquake, and What It Did — The City of the Caliphs,

Chapter XXIV. Adventures In The Mountains Of Syria

"Doing" Syria— The " Short " and the " Long " Route— How to Choose Them — Engaging a Dragoman — Farewell to Damascus — Preying on Travellers — The Wonderful Rivers of Syria — Crossing the Desert — A Picture of Deso.ation — Scene of St. Paul's Conversion — A Striking Contrast Ancient Ruins and Modern Hovels— A Night with the Bedouins— A Hard Road to Travel— A Glorious View— The " Doubter's " Mischance— The Lizard in the Boot— A Ludicrous Scene— Gustave's New Joke— Mollifying a Native— The Massacre at Hasbeiya— Treachery of a Turkish Colonel- Scene of Christ's Labors — In the Holy Land,