Arran; its topography, natural history and antiquities. By the Landsboroughs, father and son [The Natural History by D. Landsborough, the elder; the Topography and Antiquities by the younger.] With a memoir of Rev. D. Landsborough

Front matter

ISLAND OF ARRAN ARRAN: ITS TOPOGRAPHY. NATURAL HISTORY Anb Antiquities. BY THE LANDSBOKOUGHS, J-ATHER AND S*N. WITH MEMOIR OI' REV. 1). LANDSBOROUGH, D.D., A.L.S., M.W.8., M.R.I'.s. ARDKOSSAM : ABTIIII* GUTHRIE L <> B D 0 H ; II 0 I' L s T ON & S 0 N S. MDCOCLXXV. it i\n &vMtt THE DUCHESS OF HAMILTON AND BRANDON, RK>rF.i-r and gratitude lead me to dedicate this Book tu your Grace. These sentiments have been awakened by tbe very high terms in which you are invariably and universally spoken of by the inhabitants of Arran ; and by the way the House of Hamilton has acted toward those to whom I am related. For generations, as members of the medical profession, they faithfully served thi- Dukes of Hamilton, and were rewarded by consideration and confidence while they lived ; and by care and kindness toward those dear to them, when they were gone.

It is owing to this that for nearly a quarter of a century, I have had the pleasure of occasional residence — at fair Strabane, emliowered Cromla, ami view-commanding Strath whellan — all occupied, at nominal rents, by the widows and daughters of those servants of your noble House. That your Grace, and all dear to you, may have happiness and every blessing in this world, and in the next, is the sincere desire of ATour humble Servant, DAVID LANDSBOROUGH.

Preface

In* editing the Second Edition of my Father's "Natural History of Arra\," I have prefixed it by a short memoir. I have also removed the repetitions which he regretted, and have sought to render it more his own by excluding man}*- of the long quotations, and by inserting in their place suitable extracts from his other writings. Scientific names now in use have been substituted for those which are olisolete. Some short additions, within brackets, have also been made, and a few sentences introduced to connect insertions. The chapters on the Antiquities and Geology of Arran are meant only as introductory to the works of Professor Ramsay, Dr. Bryce, Mr John Eaton Reid (History of the County of Bute) , and Mr M 'Arthur. The Topographical consists of two parts — the first forms a Guide Book to Arran ; tbe second narrates a series of Pleasure Excursions there.

It is hoped that lKith may be of use to visitors, and for their convenience they have been placed at the beginning of the volume. I alone am responsible for them ; as also for the chapters on Antiquities and Geology. My Father acknowledges his obligations to Professor John Fleming, Professor Balfour, Mr Bean, Dr. George Johnston, Sir AY. J. Hooker, Dr. Greville, Mr Ralfs, Dr. Dickie, Mrs Griffiths, Professor Harvey, James Smith, Esq., Jordanhill ; Professor Gardner, Mr \\*. Thomson, Mr Alder, and Mr Paterson. I am greatly obliged to Professor Ramsay, Director-General of the Geological Survey of Great Britain, who, in addition to answer- VI

PREFACE.

. ing my geological queries, has most kindly allowed me the use of the wood-cuts which illustrate his very valuable work on Arran ; Jas. Paterson, Esq., Whitehouse, who prepared the drawings from which were taken the woodcuts of Brodick and of Glen Rosie ; Professor Balfour, who has kindly revised the Botanical Lists with whieh he favoured my Father ; Mr Robert Gray, author of the very interesting "Birds of the West of Scotland," who has most liberaUy allowed me to print his list of the " Birds of Arran ;" Mr Duncan, Troon, who has superintended the publication of the Entomological list, to which he has made very important additions ; Mr Borland, Kilmarnock, who has assisted me in many ways ; most of all to my brother-in-law, the Rev. Arthur Thomson, Yester, who has most obligingly looked over my manuscripts, and to whom I am indebted for many valuable suggestions.

Obligations of another kind I owe to the venerable Miss Stoddart, Cromla. Though only related to her by marriage, she has ever welcomed me to her house as to a home, and it was she who allowed me to plant in her garden the foreign trees and shrubs mentioned in connection with Corrie. Botanists will find Hennecly's " Clydesdale Flora " very useful. CONTENTS

Part I Guide To Arran

Pages. Chap. I.— Introduction, 9-12 II. — A'iews of Arran, 13-16 III-— A Day's Visit to Arran, .... 17-21 IA*.— Goatfe!!, 22-31 A".— Glen Sannox, 32-39 A'I. — Beinn Nuis, Glen Rosie AA*ood, Up Glen Rosie and down Glen Sannox, Up Glen Rosie and down the AYhite AA'ater Glen, - - - 40-45 ,, VII. — The King's Cove, and The Stone Circles, - 46-51 A*IIL— Places of Residence, 52-69 TOURS IN ARRAN. Chap. IX. — Arran in the Olden Time — including, 1st, Stevenston Manse to Corrie ; 2nd, I^amlash to Shiskan, King's Cove, Loch lorsa, Ixn h Tanna, Beinn Bharrain, Catacol, Lochranza, and Brodick ; 3rd, Corrie to Lochranza by I'll, Stairs, and back by the Coast; 4th, Lochranza to Brodick by Loch-na-Davie anil Loch Nuis, 70-85 X. — A Visit to Lochranza in the Olden Time, - 86-96 XL— A Day at Brodick, 97-103 ,, XII.— A Thunderstorm in Glen Rone, - - - 104-112 „ XIII.— Corrie to Beinn Bharrain and Loch Tanna, - 113-119 CONTENTS.

VIII Pages. XIV.— The Fairy Dell, The Rents, and the Smuggler's Cave, 120-126 Chap. XV.— Brodick to Lag by Catacol, - - - - 127-146 XVI. — Lamlash to Lag, Little Mill, and AA'hiting Bay, 147-154

Part II. Natural History Of Arran

MEMOIR OF DR LANDSBOROUGH. 157-228 I. — Dredging Excursions, 1st, with Mr Smith of Jordanhill and Rev. Dr. Chalmers ; 2nd, with Mr Smith ; 3rd, with Mr Smith, Mr Smith, junr., and Rev. Mr Story, Roseneath — Newer Pliocene Deposit — A*itrified Fort — List of Molluscs — Holy Isle — St Molios' Cave — Phosphorescence — Shipwreck of St. Paul at Malta— Strange Aressel, - - - 231-246 Chap. II. — Another Excursion to Lamlash — Land Plants — Seaweeds — their former unpopularity — Desmidieæ and Distomaceæ — The splendid Fanbearer — Halley and Sir I. Newton, 247-257 III. — Lamlash — Improvements — Dredging — Algæ — Molluscs — Zoophytes — Star-fishes — Sea-urchins — Fishes — Hermit crab, - - 25S-276 IA*.— AVhiting Bay— Trap Dykes— Sea Shells— Tent-making Spiders — King Robert Bruce, 277-290 A* — Grandeur and Beauty of Brodick Bay — Strange way of taking crabs — Brodick Castle — Mulberry — Rare Plants — Acteon — Corrie — Rare Alga — Corrie Limestone Quarry, 291-303 VI. — Beroes described — They shine by Borrowed Light — So do God's Children — They are beautifully phosphorescent, - - - 304-315 VII. — Sea Jellies — The Sting-tish — Y'oung Men and Maidens — Anecdote — Moral Reflections' - 316-326 CONTENTS.

IX Pages. Chap. VTII. — Dredging Excursion with Mr Alder of Newcastle — Nudibranchs, Zoophytes, Star Fishes, &c. — AA'alk to Lag, - - - 327-335 ,, IX. — Torlin — Natural Harbour at Southend — Struey Rocks — Rare Rock Plants — Pladda — Fresh-water Alga- — Evening AA'orship, - 336-349 ,, X. — Fresh-water Minims — Hydræ, A'orticellæ, and Plumatella, 350-302 ,, XI. — -Algæ — Dredging Excursion with Mr Alder and Major Martin — Spirorbes, Serpula? — Lima's Nest — Acorn-shells — Funnel Sponge — Coral —Botanical AValk— Anecdote, - - - 363-380 ,, XII. — Fishes — The Y'oung of Sucker-fish — Lancelet — Band-fish — Ribbon-fish — AVrasse, - - 3SI-386 ,, XIII.— Birds— Mavis— Blackbird— Moor Blackbird- Rook — Tern — Kittiwake — Golden-crested AVren — Oyster-catcher — God's care for his Creatures — Conclusion, .... 3S7-408