The boy travellers in Mexico : adventures of two youths in a journey to northern and central Mexico, Campeachy, and Yucatan, with a description of the republics of Central America and of the Nicaragua Canal

Front matter

^1^'

d-

THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN

Preface

UNTIL within the past few years, Mexico was a country not easily reached from the principal cities of the United States, and our relations with it were by no means intimate. Since the completion of the railway from the frontier of Texas to the heart of the most northerly of the Spanish- American republics, there has been a rapid development of commercial and social relations between Mexico and the United States, and the tide of travel from one country to the other is steadily increasing year by year. These circumstances have led the author of " The Boy Travellers" to believe that his young friends everywhere would welcome a book describing the land of the Aztecs, its history and resources, the manners and customs of its people, and the many curious things to be seen, and adventures passed through, in a journey from one end of that countiy to th'- 'other.

In this belief he sought the aid of his and their friends, Frank and Fred, immediately after their return from Australasia. Ever ready to be of service, the youths assented to his request to make a tour of the Mexican republic, in company with their guide and mentor, Doctor Bronson, and the result of their journey is set forth in the following pages. It is confidently hoped that the narrative will be found in every jDarticular fully equal to any of its predecessors in the series to which it belongs.

The methods on which the Boy Travellers have hitherto performed their work have been adhered to in the present volume. In addition to his personal acquaintance with Mexico and travels in that country, the author has drawn upon the observations of those who have preceded and followed him there. He has consulted books of history, travel, and statistics in great number, has sought the best and most accurate maps, and while his work was in progress he consulted many persons familiar with Mexico, and was in frequent correspondence with gentlemen now residing there. He has sought to bring the social, political, and commercial history of the country down to the latest date, and to present a truthful

A

VI PREFACE.

picture of the present status of our sister republic. The result of his efforts he submits herewith to the judgment of his readers.

Many of the works that have been consulted are named in the text, but it has not been convenient to refer to all. Among those to wliich the author is indebted may be mentioned the following: Bishop's "Old Mexico and her Lost Provinces," Griffin's "Mexico of To-day," Haven's "Our Next-door I^eighbor," Charnay's "Ancient Cities of the New World," Squier's "Nicaragua" and "Central America," Wells's "Honduras," Stephens's " Travels in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan," Baldwin's "Ancient America," Wilson's "Mexico and its Eeligions," Abbott's "Hernando Cortez," Prescott's " Conquest of Mexico," Ober's "Travels in Mexico," Geiger's " Peep at Mexico," Gooch's " Face to Face with the Mexicans," Chevalier's "Mexique Ancien et Moderne," and the hand-books of Janvier, Conkling, and Hamilton.

As in the other "Boy Traveller" volumes, the author is indebted to the liberality of his publishers, Messrs. Harper & Brothers, for the use of engravings that have appeared in previous publications relative to Mexico and Central America, in addition to those specially ]3repared for this book. As a result of their generosity, he has been enabled to add greatly to the interest of the work, particularly to the younger portion of his readers, for whom illustrations always have an especial charm.

T. W. K.

New York, June, 1889,

Chapter I

Preparations for Departure. — Plans for the Journey. — To Mexico by Rail. — Baggage, and Books on the Country. — Brushing up their Knowledge of Spanish. — Westward from New York. — A Halt at St. Louis. — San Antonio, Texas. — Visit to the Alamo. — Reminiscences of the Fall op the Alamo. — Battle op San Jacinto and Independence of Texas. — Notes ON THE Railways of Northern Mexico. — Old Texas and Modern Changes. — " G. T. T." — Present Wealth op the State. — Arrival on the Frontier of Mexico '. ..Pii£;e 1

CHAPTER H.

Hotels on the Frontier. — Accommodations at Laredo. — Smuggling over the Border. — Lakedo AS A Railway Centre. — The Rio Grande and its Peculiarities.— Rivers Beneath the Sands.— Entering Mexican Territory. — Examinations at the Custom-house. — Mexican Tariffs. — Bribery among Officials. — Leaving Nuevo Laredo. — A Dreary Plain. — Fellow-passengers WITH OUR Friends. — A Mexican Irishman. — People at the Stations. — Adobe Houses; How they are Made. — The Land of Manana. — Poco Tiempo and Quien Sabe. — Lampasas. — Mesa de los Oartujanos. — Products of Nuevo Leon. — Saddle and Mitee Mountains. — Monterey 15

Chapter III

The American Invasion of To-day. — Monterey as a Health Resort ; its Site and Surroundings. — The Cathedral and other Public Buildings. — Capture op Monterey by General Taylor. — Short History of the Mexican War. — From Corpus Christi to Monterey. — The.^1ttack on the City. — Capture of the Forts and the Bishop's Palace. — Frank Recites a Poem. — Lieut. U. S. Grant and What he Did at Monterey. — A Story about Jefferson Davis. — How John Phenix Escaped Cashiering. — Sights of the City. — The Market-place and What was Seen There. — Fruits, Birds, Pottery, etc. — In a Monterey House. — A Palatial Residence 31

Chapter IV

Southward to Saltillo. — Santa Cateeina. — Remarkable Caves. — Scenery op the Sierra Madre. — Wat-side Attractions. — The Cactus; its Flowers and Many Varieties. — Saltillo. — The Alameda. — Mexican Currency. — The Battle-field op Buena Vista. — By Carriage and Saddle. — A Night at a Hacienda. — Mexican Cookery. — Tortillas, Puchero, Frijoles, Ta- JiALES, AND Other Edibles. — History op the Mexican War from Monterey to Buena Vista. —5000 Americans Defeat 20,000 Mexicans. — Description op the Field.— Cotton Factory AT Saltillo. — Cotton Manufactures in Mexico 48 vm CONTENTS.

Chapter V

From Saltillo to Jaral. — A Journey by Diligence. — Peculiarities of Diligence Travel. — Brigandage ; How the Government Suppressed It. — Robbers Turned into Soldiers. — Stories OP Brigands and their Work ; their Treatment of Prisoners. — A Case ok Politeness. — Dinner at a Way-side Inn. — Chile con Carne. — Description of Chihuahua. — The Santa EuLALiA Mines; Romantic Story of their Discovery. — Torreon and Lerdo. — Cotton in Transit. — Statistics of Cotton in Mexico. — Fresnillo. — Calera. — A Bad Breakfast. — Arrival AT Zacatecas. — Lodged in an Old Convent Pajie 66

Chapter VI

Name, Population, and Peculiarities op Zacatecas. — The Pilgrimage Chapel. — A Wealthy Cathedral. — Street Scenes. — Mines of Zacatecas. — A Dangerous Descent. — The Patio Process of Reducing Ores. — Treading Ore with Mules and Horses. — A Sorry Sight. — The Miners ; How they Live and Work. — Statistics of Silver-mining in Mexico. — Astounding Calculations. — From Zacatecas to Aguas Calientes. — Farm Scenes. — Farming in Mexico. — Condition of Laborers. — Men as Beasts op Burden. — Aguas Calientes. — A Beautiful City. — ^A Picturesque Population. — Women op Mexico 85

Chapter VII

Southward Again. — Crossing a Barranca. — Barrancas in Mexico. — Lagos and its Peculiarities. — Leon, the Manufacturing City of Mexico. — Silao. — Arrival at Guanajuato. — A Silver City. — The Valenciano Mine. — An Unhealthy Place. — Bad Drainage. — A System OP Reservoirs. — The Castillo del Grenaditas. — An Indian's Armor. — Expers Thieves. — Stealing A Grindstone. — Market Scenes. — Heads of Sheep and Goats. — Schools at Guanajuato. — Education in Mexico. — Down in the Rayas Mine. — Sights Underground. — An Indian Water-carrier. — How a Skin is Taken Whole from a Pig. — The Reduction Hacienda. — Mr. Parkman's Machine. — Queretaro. — The Hercules and other Cotton-mills 102

Chapter VIII

Aqueduct at Queretaro. — The Result op a Banter. — The Hill of the Bells. — Place where Maximilian was Shot. — Revolutions in Mexico. — Foreign Intervention. — Maximilian becomes Emperor. — The "Black Decree." — Withdrawal op French Troops from Mexico. — Maximilian's Defeat, Capture, and Death. — How a French Newspaper Circumvented the Laws. — Pronunciamentos. — Juarez as Prfsident. — The Abraham Lincoln of Mexico. — A Wonderful Prophecy. — Personal Appearance op Juarez. — Religion in Mexico. — Former Power of the Catholic Church. — The Laws of the Reform. — Protestant Churches and Protestant Work. — Missionary Martyrs. — Murder op Rev. J. L. Stephens. — Religious Affairs AT Present 116

Chapter IX

From Queretaro to the Capital. — Plain of the Cazadero. — Tula. — The Great Spanish Drainage-cut. — Disastrous Inundations of Mexico City. — A Puzzle for Engineers. — Arrival at THE Capital. — Hotel Life. — Restaurants and the Mode of Living. — Amusing Stories of Hotel Management. — Fondas and Fonditas. — Men for Chamber-maids. — Almuerzo. — A Morning Stroll along the Streets. — Women on their Way to Mass. — The Mantilla. — Sellers of Sacred Things. — Dealers in Lottery Tickets. — Lotteries Run by Government. ■ — Attending a Drawing. — How the Affair was Conducted. — Flom-er-sellers 132

CONTENTS. i2(

Chapter X

The Cathedral op Mexico. — Site of the Aztec Teocalli. — Human Sacrifices. — Panorama of THE Valley op Mexico. — Extent and Cost of the Cathedral ; Chapels and Altars. — Tomb OP Iturbide. — The Career and Tragic End of Iturbide. — The Richest Altar in the World. — Golden Candlesticks a Man could not Lift. — The Aztec Calendar-stone ; its Interesting Features ; Inscription on the Stone. — Brief Account op the Aztecs. — The Tribe called Mexicans. — Aztec Laws and Customs.— Prevalence op the Death Penalty. — Aztec Posting System. — Picture-writing. — Flower-show in the Zocalo. — A Fashionable Assemblage. — Wonderful Work in Feathers .......„., o ..,...,..„,,,„..,... „ Page 147

Chapter XI

Lost Arts in Mexico. — Goldsmiths' Work in the Time of Cortez.— Silver Filigree. — Modelling IN Wax and Clay. — Native Taste for Music. — National Conservatory op Music. — Museum OP Antiquities. — The Sacrificial Stone.— Sacrifices among the Ancient Mexicans.— Gladiatorial Stone. — A Brave Soldier. — Obsidian Knives and Razors. — Aztec Metallurgy. — Statue of the God of War. — Shield and Cloak of Montezuma. — Aztec Warfare and Domestic Life. — Relics op Hidalgo and Maximilian. — Max's State Coach. — National Palace. — Hall op the Ambassadors. — Mexican Paintings. — The Monte de Piedad. — An Extensive Pawn-shop. — Locking up Men as Security. — Formalities of the Salesroom ... 163

CHAPTER Xn.

Mexican Politeness. — Free Gifts op Houses and other Property. — Awkward Mistakes. — An Englishwoman's Dilemma, and How She Got Out op It. — Uncle Freddy and the Governor OP AcAPULCo. — The Great Market ; Sights and Scenes Thehe. — On the Canal. — Extensive Local Commerce. — The Chinampas, or Floating Gardens. — An Excursion on the Lakjes. — Santa Anita, a Place op Recreation. — Experts in Diving. — The Hill op Estrella. — The Festival op Fire; Prescott's Description of the Fearful Ceremony. — Fishing in the Lakes. — The Axolotl. — Fish or Reptile? — Flies' Eggs as an Article of Food 179

Chapter XIII

Courtship in Mexico. — "Playing the Bear." — Lovers' Troubles. — A Short Road to Matrimony. — Presents to the Expectant Bride. — The Marriage Ceremony. — Tedious Preliminaries. — Civil and Religious Marriages. — Differences of Marriage among the Common People AND THE Upper Classes. — A Hand-book for Lovers. — Funerals ; How they are Managed. — Cards of Condolence. — Cemeteries. — Monument to American Soldiers. — Annual Death-rate in Mexico City. — Prevalent Diseases. — Domestic Servants; Their Number, Wages, and Mode op Life. — A Peculiar Laundry System 198

CHAPTER Xiy.

Sculpture and Painting in Mexico. — National School of the Fine Arts. — Brief History op Mexican Art. — Celebrated Paintings. — "Las Casas Protecting the Aztecs." — "The Death of Atala." — How an Artist Managed to Sell a Picture. — From Art to Pulquerias. — The National Beverage op Mexico. — The Maguey Plant. — How Pulque is Made. — Col.

LECTING the SaP. FERMENTING AgUAMIEL. DaILY CONSUMPTION OP PULQUE IN THE CiTY OP

Mexico. — Management of the Shops. — Romantic History of the Invention op Pulque.

Mexican Police-courts. — Novel Mode of Trying Cases. — The Belem Prison. — Catalogue op Offences Against the Law. — An Adroit Thief. — Running the Gantlet. , 212

CONTENTS.

Chapter XV

The Paseo de la Reforma. — Brigandage near the City. — Statue of Chahles IV. of Spain. — Statue of Columbus. — A Relic of Maximilian. — Aqueducts from Chapultepec. — Montezuma's Tree. — Chapultepec; its Height and Extent. — Montezuma's Bath. — The Palace. — "The Feast of Belshazzar." — National Military College. — Molino del Rey. — General Scott's Advance upon Mexico. — Capture of Vera Cruz. — Battle of Cerro Gordo. — Entering the Valley. — Contreras and Churubusco. — Fall of Chapultepec. — General Scott's Entrance into the City. — Treaty of Peace. — General Grant on the Mexican War. Page 229

Chapter XVI

The Noche Triste Tree. — A Brief History of the Conquest op Mexico. — Departure of Cortez from Cuba. — He Lands in Yucatan. — Founding the City of Vera Cruz. — Defeating the Tlascalans. — Entrance to Tenochtitlan. — Reception by Montezuma. — Return to the Coast. — Expulsion of the Spaniards. — Besieging the City with the Aid of the Tlascalans. — Capture of the City, and Death of Guatemozin. — Beginning of the Rule of the Viceroys. — The Church of Guadalupe. — Story of the Miraculous Apparition. — Religious AND Political Holiday. — Pilgrimage to Guadalupe. — Penitentes; Their Self-inflicted Tortures 248

CHAPTER XVn.

Area and Inhabitants of Mexico. — Character of the Population. — Indians, Europeans, and Mestizos ; Their Respective Numbers and Characteristics. — Inclinations of the Mixed Races. — Tendencies of Educated Indians. — President Juarez as an Example. — How the Indians Live. — How the Spaniards Took Possession op the Land. — Creoles and their Origin. — The Mestizos. — Leperos and their Character. — Adroit Thieves. — Pawning a Church Organ. — The Leperos and the Brigands. — Church of San Domingo. — Short History OF THE Inquisition in Mexico. — The Auto-da-fe ... 264

Chapter XVIII

Ascent op Popocatepetl. — " The White Woman." — Geographical PosmoN of the Volcano. — First Ascent by White Men. — Amecameca. — Hiring Horses and Buying Provisions. — Equipment for the Excursion. — Dangf.r of Robbers. — Peons and Volcaneros. — Fields of Barley and Forests of Pine. — An Indian Tradition. — Fate of the Giant and Giantess. — Ice from Popocatepetl for the City of Mexico. — Sulphur from the Crater. — Sleeping at Tlamacas. — Arrival at La Cruz. — The Ascent on Foot. — Difficulties of Climbing in the Rarefied Air. — The Pico del Fraile.— Caught in a Cloud 279

Chapter XIX

The Ascent of Popocatepetl Continued. — Last Steps op the Upward Journey. — Loss of Life ON the Mountain. — How Three Indians Perished. — The Crater of the Volcano. — How the Sulphur-miners Exist. — Dangers of the Crater. — The Solfataras.— Caught in a Storm. — View from the Summit. — Scenes in the Crater. — A Rapid Descent. — Tobogganing on a Grand Scale. — How the Sulphur -mine Originated. — No Eruption in Seven Thousand Years. — Return to Amecameca. — Exploration of the Surrounding Country. — Tombs and their Contents. — Curious Instance of Preservation.— Monte Sacro. — "Modern Antiquities."— Indians Worshipping the Volcano. — Experience with a Ratero 296

CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XX

Rapacious Cargadores. — Old Book-stores in the Poetales. — Public Schools in the Mexican Capital; the Pupils in Attendance. — Theatres and Hospitals. — A Theatre Supporting a Hospital. — The Brothers of Charity. — Inside the Theatres. — A Performance of Opera. — A Minor Theatre. — Listening to a Mexican Performanck. — Bull-fighting in Mexico. — A Disgraceful Sport. — Origin of the Bull-fight. — Marionette Theatres. — The Processions. — Mexican Love for Cock-fighting. — Commingling of Religious Ceremonials and Amusements. — The Posada and the Pastorela; their Peculiarities. — Killing Judas.. Page 312

Chapter XXI

Excursion to Tula. — An Ancient City of the Toltecs. — Church of the Time of Cortez. — Manners AND Customs of the Toltecs. — Toltec Kings, Courts, and Knighthood. — Ruins of the Temple and Palace. — Journey to Moeelos. — Interoceanic Railway. — Morelos and his Services to Mexico. — Cuautla and its Attractions. — Terrible Railway Accident. — Down the Southern Slope. — In Tieeea Caliente. — Visiting a Sugar Estate. — To Yautepec and

CUEENAVACA. RiDE OVER THE MOUNTAINS. — SITUATION OF CuERNAVACA. OlD ChURCH AND

Palace op Cortez. — A Fortunate Peenchman. — Romantic Incident in the Captuee of Cuernataca . 328

Chapter XXII

Overland to Acapulco. — Scenes of Long Ago. — Present Mode of Travel. — Ten Days on Horseback. — Way-side Accommodations. — Acapulco's Harbor. — Return to the Capital. — Excursion to Guadalajara. — Doctoe Beonson Left Behind. — Old Bridges and their History.— Battle BETWEEN Hidalgo and the Spaniards. — Stories about Beigands. — Slaughtee BY Private Enteepeise. — How Senoe Peeez Secueed Peace. — Attractions of Guadalajara. — The Cathedral and other Churches. — The Great Hospicio. — What the Earthquake Did. — Public Schools. — A Day on a Cattle Hacienda. — A Rodeo. — Retuen to the Capital 348

Chapter XXIII

Interview with President Diaz ; his Personal Appearance and History. — A Checkered Caeeee. — Saved fbom the Sea. — The Faithful Puesee and his Rewaed. — Characteristics of Diaz's Administration. — Madame Diaz. — A Diplomatic Marriage. — The Army and Navy of Mexico. — The Postal Service. — Newspapers and other Publications. — Peincipal Weiters of Fiction. — From Mexico to Puebla. — How the Mexican Railway was Built. — Difficulties OF Engineering. — Apizaco. — The City of the Angels ; its Cathedral and other Curiosities. — Manufactures of Puebla. — Battle-field of Cinco de Mayo 364

Chapter XXIV

Further Sights in Puebla. — Ecclesiastical Buildings. — Schools, Hospitals, Asylums, and other Public Institutions. — Cholula and its Great Pyramid. — Fiest Sight of the Pyramid ; ITS Chaeacter, Size, and Peculiarities. — Ancient Cholula. — Massacee of Inhabitants by Coetez. — Rumors of Buried Teeasuees. — How a Ceafty Peiest was Foiled. — Visit to Tlascala. — The State Legislatuee in Session. — Bannee Carried by Cortez. — First Christian Church in America. — Ancient Pulpit and Baptismal Font. — A Revered Shrine. — From Tlascala to Apizaco and Onward Towards the Gulf 380 xii CONTENTS.

Chapter XXV

Down the Cpmbres. — A Monster Locomotive. — Maltrata. — El Barranca del Ikfernillo. — In

THE TiERRA TeMPLADA. PeAK OF OrIZABA ; HoW IT WAS AsCENDED. An OlD AND QCAINT

Town. — Excursions in the Environs op Orizaba. — Falls of the Rincon Grande. — Manufacturing Industries— Cerro del Borrego. — The Mexican Army Routed. — Cordoba. — How to Run a Coffee Plantation. — Barranca of Metlac. — Paso del Macko. — Tierra Caliente. — Dry Lands near the Sea-coast. — Vera Cruz. — Zopilotes and their Uses. — Yellow Fever; its Seasons and Peculiarities. — Northers and their Benefits. .Page 394

Chapter XXVI

The Alameda of Vera Cruz. — Tropical Growths. — The Palo de Leche and its Peculiarities. — A Dangerous Plant. — Fountains and Water-carriers. — Governor's Palace. — Brief History of Vera Cruz. — Pillaged by Pirates and Captured in Wars. — Fortress of San Juan de Ulloa. — Horrors of a Mexican Prison. — Excursion to Jalapa. — The National Bridge. — Cerro Gordo. — General Scott's Victory. — Jalapa. — A City of Mists. — Staple Products of the Region. — Jalap and its Qualities. — Pretty Women. — Peculiarities of the Streets. — Orizaba and Perote. — New Railway Connections. — Tampico and Anton LizAJiDO. — Delayed by a Norther. — Departure by Steamer. — Farewell to Vera Cruz. 410

Chapter XXVII

The Coatzacoalcos River. — Isthmus of Tehuantepec. — Tehuantepec Railway and Ship-canal. — The Eads Ship-railway. — An Idea of Cortez. — Plans of Captain Eads. — A Railway-carriage with 1200 Wheels. — Ships Carried in Tanks. — Engineering and other Features OF the Ship-railway. — Mahogany Trade. — Fifteen Thousand Dollars for Three Logs, — Frontera and Tabasco. — Ruins of Palenque. — Lorillard City. — Explorations by Stephens AND Charnay. — Palace of Palenque. — Temple of the Cross. — Temple of Lorillard. — Remarkable Idol. — A Region Abounding in Ruins. — Remains of Mitla. — Pillar of Death 423

Chapter XXVIII

"The Mysterious City;" Stories and Rumors Concerning it. — Accounts of Stephens and Morelet. — Fate of Two Young Americans. — Don Pedro Velasquez. — Carmen and Campeachy. — Underground Caves. — How Logwood is Gathered ; its Commercial Importance. — The Quezal and its Wonderful Plumage. — Snakes and Snake Stories. — Travellers' Tales. — Progreso and Sisal. — How the Yucatan Railway was Built. — Agave Sisalana. — Discovery and Conquest of Yucatan. — A Ferocious Population. — Rebellious Indians IN Yucatan ; How They Treat Visitors. — Towns and Villages Depopulated 439

Chapter XXIX

Railway-station at Merida. — Public Conveyances. — The Calesa. — A Ride Through the Streets. — When Merida was Founded. — Practical Mode of Designating Streets.— Public Buildings. — Casa Municipal. — Dress and Manners of the People. — Indians, Spaniards, AND Mestizos. — A City of Pretty Women. — Characteristics of the Maya Race. — The Mestizo Quarter. — Scenes in the Market. — Breakfasting at a Medio Restaurant. — Euchre or Yucca. — Uses of the Yucca Plant.— Gambling in Yucatan. — La Loteria; How it is Played. — American Counterpart of the Yucateo Game. — A Popular Assemblage 454

CONTENTS. xiii

Chapter XXX

Pottery and HAMsrocK Markets. — Hammocks in Yucatan; their General Use for Sleeping Purposes. — Yucateo Salutations. — An Awkward Situation. — Fashionable, Mestizo, and Indian Balls. — Characteristic Indian Dances. — Worship of the Sun Among the Ancient . YucATEOs. — Native Music. — Zopilote Dance. — Visit to a Henequin Hacienda. — The Volan Coche. — A Vehicle of the Country. — A Race and How it Ended. — Arrival at the Hacienda. — The Scraping and Baling Machinery. — Starting a Plantation. — Price of the Fibre in the Market. — "No Money in the Business." — Fibre-factories in Yucatan. — How THE Owners of Estates Live Pase 468

Chapter XXXI

First Night in the Hammocks. — Inspecting a Cenot^. — Underground Watercourses and Lakes. — How Cenotes are Formed. — A Subterranean Bath-house. — A Noria. — Water Tax on A Direct System. — Native Superstitions. — A Lizard That Shakes his Tail Off. — Biting A Shadow, and what Comes of it. — Journey to the Ruins of Uzmal. — A Heetzmek. — — Yucateo Mode of Carriting Infants. — Breakfast at a Hacienda. — Garden at Uayalke. Eating Tropical Lizards. — Fred's Opinion of Lizard Stews. — Bees of the Country. — Superfluous Industry of Yucateo Bees. — Evening Prayer at a Hacienda. — Arrival at Uxmal 483

Chapter XXXII

A Romantic Legend. — How the King was Overcome by the Witch. — Visiting the Dwarf's House ; its Position and Peculiarities. — House of the Nuns ; its Extent and Construction. — Casa del Gobernador. — Destructive Agencies at Work. — At Home in a Royal Palace. — Maya Arches. — Tropical Trees and Plants. — Double-headed Dog op IJxmal. — Garapatas and the Annoyance they Caused. — Insect Pests of Yucatan. — Dr. Le Plon-

GEON AND THE StATUE OF ChAC-MOOL. GhOSTS AND GhOST StORIES. — BiRDS OF YuCATAN. AN

Ancient Watering-place 498

Chapter XXXIII

A Chapter on Archeology. — Number and Extent of the Ruined Cities of Yucatan. — Mayapan, THE Ancient Capital. — Pyramid of Mayapan. — Ake and its Picote. — An Ancient Whipping-post. — Pyramids at Ake. — Historical Conundrums. — Kabah and its Mound. — Sculpture of a Man on Horseback. — Chichen-itza. — Church, Nunnery, Castle, and Tennis-court AT Chichen. — Extent and Character of the Sculptures. — Story of the Conquest of Chichen. — Skilful Retreat of the Spanish Captain. — Other Ruined Cities. — Idols of CoPAN. — Probabilities of Cities Yet to be Discovered 513