Backsheesh. or, Life and adventures in the Orient

Front matter

IVIicrosoft Corporation

BACKSHEESH!

Life and Adventures

Author's Preface

The following pages are the result of a peaceful crusade to the East, undertaken for purposes of pleasure and profit. The author has endeavored to combine the humorous features of the journey with the store of useful knowledge that should be the result of a tour through the Orient. He trusts that he has so combined them that both will be satisfactory, and that the reader will be amused while seeking instruction and instructed while seeking amusement.

There is a story of an honest old Quak;er resident of Philadelphia, who sent his son to make the tour of Europe. The young man determined to see all that could be seen, and gave his whole mind to the search for enjoyment. When he returned from his travels his father said :

"John, thou hast been absent a twelvemonth and past, and thou hast drawn on me for eighteen thousand dollars. John, that is a great deal of money for thee to spend in one year."

"I know it, father," was the young man's response, "but I have had lots of fun for that money."

in return for the labor and fatigue incident to Oriental travel, the author believes that he found an ample reward in the entertainment and information which the journey afforded.

The author is glad to avail himself of this opportunity to express the gratification he feels at seeing his book so profusely and artistically illustrated. In this department of the work the publishers have displayed their enterprise and liberality in such a creditable manner, as to justly entitle them, not only to the author's grateful acknowledgments, but to the hearty thanks of all who may read his book.

He would also return his thanks to the artists and engravers, who have so skilfully designed and executed the illustrations, many of which were drawn and engraved in London and Paris, expressly for this volume.

Finally he would thank most cordially the many gentlemen in the various countries he visited who gave him the benefit of their personal experience and observation. Their names are too numerous to be included in this preface, and their nationalities comprise nearly all the civilized countries of the globe. T. W. K.

Principally designed, or reproduced from photographs, by Karl Giradet, C. Faguet, Frank Beard, James C. Beard, Arthur Lumley, L. Hopkins, and other eminent artists, and rnosUy engraved by Messrs. MoUer, Pannemaker, Laplante, Gii-sniand, Gauchard, and other noted engravers of Paris; by W. J. Palmer, and the London Illustration Company, of London; and by Charles Speigle, of New York.

14- 15-

1 5.

17. 18. 19-

40. 21.

Page.

Steel-Plate Portrait of the Author Frontispiece.

The Story- Tdler of tlie Desert— ^vi\\ Page To face Frontispiece.

Head Piece v

Head Piece ix

Tail Rece -. xxxi

Steamer Day 34

The Judge's First Day at Sea 35

The Judge's Second Day at Sea 36

The Race 39

The Judge 40

A Practical Joke 44

Fraternizing 50

Eternal Friendship 51

Proof of the Affray 52

Avenging an Insult 54

"I must have a Duel" 55

An Imperial Wine Cellar 60

" Salt by Yer' 68

The Snoring Match 69

The Doubter 71

A Turkish " Hamal " 72

Among the Fleas 79

A Toilet in Public 82

" Natives of the Country" 85

Precautionary Measures 86

" She is a Jewess" 89

The Palace Tshiragan 91

Shirking the Cemetery 97

'• Fresh Paint" 100

(iv)

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page. 04

36. Driving a Bargain

37. A Night at Baidar

38. Caugiit in the Act

41. Putting in his "Best Licks"

42. " Baclisheesh"

43. An Impressive Scene

44. Constantinople from the Tower of Golata— Wall Page

46. A Street in Constantinople

47. Strategy

48. The Reconnoitre

49. The Retreat

JO. A Damas-cussed Dog. . .

51. Stowing the Sandwiches

52. Admiring the Mosque

53. A Sudden Attack

54. The Pursuit

55. A Hopeless Chase

56. " Retrospection"

59. A Sedan Chair .■

50. A Turkish Beauty

61. An Importunate Moslem

62. Extorting " Backsheesh"

64. End of the Fast and Beginning of the Feast

65. " Good-Bye, my Friend, Good-Bye"

66. A Turkish " Cavass"

68. Moslems at Prayer

69. " Bismillah"

70. The "Duplicate"

71. Muezzin announcing the Hour of Prayer

72. An Oriental Boot Jack

73. Fartha, or Opening Chapter of the Koran

76. A Whirling Dervish

77. Effect of too much Whirling

78. Howling as a Profession

79. Homoepathic Treatment

81. Some of the Brothers of Far- Away Moses

82. Interviewing a Purser '

85. View of Athens and the Acropolis 199

86. The Decline of Greece 201

87. Greek Priest of Modern Times 204

88. " Doing " the Ruins 206

91. Sending Up the Ear of a Victim 217

93. Pickling the " Doubter " "9

94. " Backsheesh !"" Backsheesh ! " 231

110,

III,

119,

120,

VI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page.

95. Head Piece 2j6

96. Inspecting the Crew 241

97. Bad "Backslieesh."— " It was Counterfeit" 245

98. St. Jean D'Acre—V ull Page 249

99. A Tricky Beast.. 254

100. Beyrout and the Mountains of Lebanon— Vull Page ■ 2J7

loi. " Mou Dicu 1 Is TUis tlie Party for Damascus ? " • 262

103. The Cedars of Lebanon-Full Page 265

104. Cedar of Lebanon 270

loy. Great Stone at Baalbek 272

106. Portal of the Temple of the Sun at Baalbek— Full Page 275

107. Court of a House in Damascus 279

108. Moslem Women Weeping at a Tomb 282

109. Syrian Jew vvitli Phylactery 285

A Money Changer in the Bazaar 288

Flat Roofed Houses— Damascus 291

112. Abd-el-Kader 293

113. We " Strip to ze bufl'" 296

114. " You will have all ze luxuries" 296

115. We Enter "Ze Bain Beautiful " 297

116. One of the Luxuries 297

117. Softening the Asperities 298

118. A Hot One 198

" What is Curlew ? " 305

A Bedouin Encampment 308

121. A Bedouin of the Desert 309

122. The Terror of the Desert on his Arabian Charger 311

123. Biiins of Pabmjra— Full Page 315

124. Hebron— Full Page 319

125. Mount Car/nel— Full Page 31J

126. An Inhabited Boot, iz;

127. Ploughing in Syria, 332

12S. All that remains of Capernaum, 334

129. "Backsheesh! O Howadji!" 335

130. The Sea of Tiberias— Full Page 337

132. Unhorsing the " Doubter," 342

133. Nazareth— Full Page 34S

134. Jews of Nazareth—F ull Page 349

135. A Syrian Water Bearer, 353

136. Jerusalem and Surrounding Country— F ull Page 359

137. Sidon— Full Page 365

139. TaU Piece, 369

140. Jqfa— Full Page 371

141. Our Dragoman, Ali Soloman, 374

143. Jerusalem fr-om the Mount of Olives— Full Page 377

144. Remains of an Ancient Arch, Showing a Portion of the Haram Wall, 3S0

145. A Street in Jerusalem, 3S1

146. Arched Street and Fountain, Jerusalem, 382

147. Principal Street of Jerusalem— FuW Page 383

148. The Golden Gate, Jerusalem, 386

149. Interior of the Golden Gate, 387

150. Site of the Temple, Jerusalem, 388

151. Ancient Signet Ring, 389

152. Ancient Signet Ring, 3S9

153. Exploring the Substructions, 390

. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Vll

Pago.

15s. The Valley of Jehoshaphat, 593

156. Wailing Place of the Jews, Jerusalem, 394

157. Wallsofthe Church of the Presentation— VnW "Page 39;

158. Bethlehem— '¥uM Page ■ 599

159. Chinch of the Xativlty, Bethlehem— VuW Page 405

160. Monastery of Mar Saba—'PuW Page 409

161. A Formidable Escort, 414

■162. Bathing Place of the Pilgi'ims on the Jordan — Full Page 417

i6}. The "Boubter's" Mishap 420

164. The Mount of Olives— VnW VsLS^ 423

165. Pool of Hezekiah, 426

166. West Door, Church of the Holy Sepulchre 427

167. Church of the Holy Sepulchre— Full Page 429

168. The Fountain of the Virgin, 433

170. Jafta Orange Seller, 438

172. Water Bearers at the Railway Station, Cairo, 447

173. Praying in the Streets of oairo, 448

174- Cairo— Full Page : 449

175. Massacre of the Mamalukes—F u II Page 455

176. Ismail Pasha, Khedive of Egypt, 458

177. A Tough One, 459

179. Tombs of the Sultans— Cairo— Full Page 469

180. "O Ye Thirsty," 472

181. Children Bread Sellers in the Streets of Cairo, 473

182. Mosque of the Sultan Hassan, at Cairo— Full Page 475

183. Young Street Arabs of Cairo, 477

184. Shoe Peddler in the Bazaar, 479

185. Latticed Windows— Cairo, 480

186. An Auctioneer in the Bazaars, 485

188. Donkey Drivers of C'«i;o— Full Page 491

189. Not up to the Dodge, 494

190. An Egyptian 'Eunuch, 496

191. An Arab School— Full Page 503

192. Ceremony of the Doseh, yio

193. A Shadoof for Drawing Water from the A^i^f— Full Page 515

194. Climbing the Pyramid 518

19s. The Ascent of the Judge, 510

196. An Arab Feat, 5^^

197. The Sphinx and the Great Pyramid of Gizeh-Full Page S^J

198. A Nile Boat 53°

199. The Serapeum— Memphis— Full Page S37

200. Landing Place at Beni- Soef— Full Page 545

201. Sugar Cane Seller at Minieh 54°

202. An Inconvenient Position, 55*

20J. Siovt—Up2)er Egyjyt— Full Page 555

205. Siout Egg Merchant, 55S

206. Egyptian Gamblers, 559

208. "Dusting" for " Backsheesh," 566

209. An Egyptian Ghawazee, 569

210. Ghawazee and Musicians, 57'

211. An Egyptian Musician 574

212. Egyptian Water Carriers Filling their Jars— Full Page S7S via LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page,

21 J. Ruins of the Temple of Denderah, Upper Egypt— T?nll Page 579

214. Entrance to the Temple of Luxor— VuW Page 587

215. The Memnonium and the Ruined Statue— VnW Page 5gj

216. Sitting Colossi, 595

217. A Fresli One, 599

218. InteHor of a Harem— VnlX Page 601

219. A Murderous Assault, 607

220. A Nubian Belle, 609

221. A Nubian Lady 610

222. An Egyptian Sakkieh,for Drawing Water from the A^i^6— Full Page 611

22J. An Affectionate Beast 61 j

224. Luxuries of Camel Riding 615

225. Egyptian God Osiris 617

226. Egyptian Goddess Isis 618

227. Island of Philce^ or Sacred Island— Vnll Page 619

228. Sacred Lotus of the Egyptians— Pull Page 627

229. Modern Egyptian Gristmill 6}o

2J0. A Nubian Warrior 652

2JI. Papyrus of the Egyptians— V nil Page 633

2}2. Biting the Dust 641

2j}. Wonun of Cairo— Wxill Page 65 j

2J4. Bread Seller in the Streets of Cairo 659

2j J. A Lady of the Harem 662

2}6. An Egyptian Barber 66?

2J7. Alexandria— V nil Page 671

2j8. Court of a House in Egj'pt, ... 673

2J9. A Bedouin Encampment near Cairo, 675

240. The Madonna Tree, 676

241. Boot Blacks of Cairo, 679

242. Mosque of Sultan Berkook, and Fountain of Ismail Pasha, at Cairo, 682

24J. Modern Egyptian Oven, 68}

244. Palace of the Viceroy, near Alexandria— Vull Page 689-

Chapter I. Steamer Life On The Atlantic

Leaving Home — Our Pilgrimage Begun — Sights and Scenes on Deck — "Life on the Ocean Wave " — Out at Sea — The Traveller's Little World — Feeling Queer Inside ! — Delights of Sea-Sickness — Reminiscences of a Jolly Old Boy — What Became of the Judge — Bringing up his Liver ! — Too Big for his Berth — Sleeping in a Second-Hand Coffin — A Race with a Lemon — The Leg of Mutton Dance — Eccentric Conduct of a Boiled Turkey — Too Much Sauce ! — " Dressing " the Judge's Trowsers — Alone at Sea — A Funny Conspiracy — Fate of a Timid Man — Confidence Betrayed — The Young Man from the Country — His Wisdom and his Woes — Drinking Petroleum — The Judge Turns Joker — Who Owns the Ocean Steamers,

Chapter II Scenes In Vienna.— Down The Danube

On English Ground — The Road to the East — Life in the Austrian Capital — Fun and Festivity — Visit to the Big Beer-Garden — Effects of Champagne — Animated Conversation — How Twenty Thousand Dollars were Spent — The Man with the Torn Vest — Headaches at a Discount — Yankees in a Row — A Pugnacious Russian — " Quits," but not Satisfied — Challenging an

(ix)

CONTENTS.

American — The J'ashionable World — Down the Danube — Scenes on the River — How Austrian Cigars are Made — An Imperial Tobacco Dealer — The Battle of Wagram — Castle of Presburg — We Enter Hungary — An Evening in a Wine Cellar — Want of a Little Soap — Night Scene on the Danube,

Chapter III. ' Life Among The Magyars

A City of Renown — Overwhelmed by the Floods — Lying in Clover — What I Saw in the Hungarian Capital — "The Poor Folks' Bath" — Rather Warm Quarters — Life Among the Magyars — The " Miffs " of an Imperial Couple — Her Majesty's Choice — A Model Captain — Charles Matthews and the Bowery Boy — Facts and Fancies of a Snoring Match — The "Judge" and the *' Doubter" — The Man who Wouldn't Believe — Who were the "Hamals," and What They Did — People in Strange Garments — Baggy Breeches versus Slop — The Fortress of Belgrade — Servia, and What I Saw of Its People — The Assassination of Prince Miloch — Rather Bad for Poetry, ■ - - (>Z

Chapter IV. Nearing The Orient.— " Backsheesh !"

Among the Fleas — The Mystery of the Bedclothes — A Cool Explanation — Under the Spray — What Became of the Dragon — A Queer Story about Flies — What Is an "Araba?" — Conversation without Words — Changing Shirts in Public — The Iron Gate — Scene at the Custom-House — Official Obstinacy — The "Sick Man" — Scenes in the Orient — The Mysteries of the Quarantine — How we Dodged the Turks — The Turk and his Rosary — Pity the Poor Israelite ! — Why an Unlucky Jewess was Whipped — The Secret of the Turkish Loan — How the Money is Spent — Ten Million Dollars Gone! — What is " Backsheesh ?" 78

Chapter V . Through The Crimea.— In And Around Sevastopol

A Visit to the Crimea — The Porter with the Big Books — The Danger of Siberia— Our Entry into Sevastopol — Terrible Reminiscences of the Crimean

CONTENTS. XI

War — How we Shirked the Cemetery — The Great Dock-Yard of Sevastopol— We Visit a Remarkable Gunboat — What we Saw Below-Deck — The Story that our Landlord Told — An Enterprising Tartar — The "Doubter" Offers an Opinion — How the "Judge" Stole a Newspaper — Adventures by the Way — The " Doubter " gets into Trouble — We Fly to the Rescue — Eccentricities of a Selfish Man — We Rise and Depart, - ■ - - 93

Chapter VI. Across The Black Sea

A Visit to a Russian Police Office — Smith, and What he Did — A Bad Lot of Passports — A Race after a Governor in a Drosky — More " Backsheesh" — Delicate Administration of a Bribe— An Obliging Subordinate — Attempt at a Swindle — Scraping an Acquaintance — High Life on the Black Sea — Muscovite Ladies — Sunrise on the Euxine — Worshipping the Sun — Stamboul — Passing Quarantine — On the Bosphorus — A Magnificent Spectacle — The Castle of Europe — Palaces and Villas — Domes and Minarets — The Golden Horn — In Front of Constantinople — Rapacity of Boatmen — Turkish Thieves — Streets of the City,

C H AFTER VII.

CONSTANTINOPLE.— THE CITY OF DOGS.

Human Camels — Canine Colors — The Dogs of Istamboul — Their Appearance and Moral Character — How the Turks Regard Them — "Inshallah" — Constantinopolitan Dogsologies — An Oriental Dog-Fight — Sagacious Brutes — Cultivating Canine Society — "Standing Treat" among the Curs — Four- Footed Campaigns — Dog-Districts — The Hostile Armies — A Brilliant Strategic Move — Charge of the Light (Dog) Brigade — Advance of the Chef DE Garbage — The "Army of the West" in Retreat — The "Doubter's " Mishap — Full Details of a Coat's Detailing — An Israelite in whom there was Guile — No More Sandwiches for Me, Sir-r-r, ....

Xll CONTENTS.

Chapter VIII. Turkish Curiosity Shops.— Sights And Scenes In The Bazaars

Locomotion in Constantinople — Horses, Donkeys, Shanks' Mare and Sedan Chairs — Turkish Street Cars — Women in Public — The Veiled Queens of Seraglios — The Drugs of the Orient — Henna and its Uses — Ottar of Roses, Musk and Bergamot — Shawls and Silks of Price — The Treasures of Ormus and of Ind — The Workers in Precious Metals — Vases of Gold and Platters of Silver — An Aureole of Gems — Loot for Soldiers and Swag for Burglars — The Weapons of Ancient Islam — Blades of Damascus and Swords of Mecca — A Wonderful Collection — Old Clothes and New Truck — A Seedy Moslem Swindler — An Exorbitant " Backsheesh " — What Happened to the Judge — A Dispenser of Justice in the Lockup, 135.

Chapter IX. Life In The Harem.— Mysteries Of The Seraglio

The Great Moslem Fast — Nights of Feasting and Days of Fasting — The Injunction of Mahomet — The Ravenous Mussulman — An Hotel Swindle— A Stranger and they Took Him In — " Too Thin, Too Thin" — Greek Wine — Going Out in a Blaze of Glory — Thunder, Smoke, and Flame — The Approach of the Sultan — How he Looked — A Peep at the Ladies of the Harem — The Veiled Queens — The Sultan's Mother — The Empress Eugenie at the Seraglio — Insult Offered to Eugenie — A Queen in Tears — A Question of Court Etiquette — Murdering Christians, 145.

Chapter X. The Mosques.— Faith And Superstitions Of The

MUSSULMANS.

Among the Mosques — Their Special Uses — Greek Burglars, their Capture and Execution — A "Firman," What Is It — A Turkish Dragoman — A Relic

CONTENTS. Xlll

of Ancient Byzantium — Its Name and Origin — Taking a Portrait — Turkish Superstitions — Worshipping in St. Sophia — Moslem Fanatics — Counting The Minarets — What Came of a Wet Pair of Boots — The Judge in a Tight Place — The " Doubter " Commits Sacrilege — Uncovering a Sarcophagus — Attacked by the Priests — Barefooted Worshippers— Teachings of the Koran — Cleanliness and Temperance — Why Turkish Women Do Not Go to the Mosques— Why Good Mussulmans Never Get Drunk, - - - 153

Chapter XI. Whirling And Howling Dervishes.— W^ho And W^hat They Are

The Dervishes of Constantinople, What Are They ? — How they Live and What they Do — Unclean and Devout Beggars — Where they Bury their Dead — Opening their Circus — Removing the "Doubter's" Boots — An Amusing Situation — Clearing the Floor — Human Top-Spinning — Dropping into Jelly-Bags — A Pliable Lot of Living Corpses — The Howling Dervishes — Where and How they Live — A House Full of Madmen — A Shrieking Chant — " La Hah il Allah " — Stirring Up the Wild Beasts — Spectators Joining in the Chorus — Horrible Superstitious Rites — Treading on Sick Children — Reaching Paradise by Bodily Tortures — A Sad Disappointment — The Founder of the Sect, and who he Was — Pulling Teeth as a Proof of Sanctity, 166

Chapter XII. Good-bye, Constantinople !— Adventures By The

WAY.

.Far-Away Moses, the Famous Guide — His Numerous Brothers — His Shop in the Great Bazaar — An Evening at the " Foreign Club" — Dreaming of Polyglots and the Tower of Babel — More " Backsheesh '' — Passing the Custom- House — How they Protect Home Manufactures — Standing Up for One's Own Country — "Honesty ish te Besht Bolicy " — Borrowing Money at Twenty per Cent. — The Start from Constantinople — A Hint to Travellers- Sleeping in Public on the Stage — Interviewing the Purser — A Satisfactory Arrangement — Baron Bruck and his Career — Unwelcome Intruders — Classic Ground — One Trifling Peculiarity, 177

XIV CONTENTS.

SYRA, THE MARBLE ISLAND.— LIFE IN AN ATHENIAN HOTEL.

In sight of Syra — Active Trade in one Fish — A town all Built of Marble — The " Doubter" Expresses his Sentiments — Gustave's Adventure — Walking on One's Ear — "A little more beer, boy !" —The Pirates' Retreat — Extraordinary Politeness in a Cafi — A lesson for American Barkeepers — In the Stamboul's Cabin — " Blowing great guns" — A Tale of a Tub — Honey and Marble — Standing in the City of Demosthenes — The Battle of the Rival Hotels — Profanity in an Unknown Tongue — Out-generaling Inn-keepers — Tricks on Travellers — Useful Knowledge for Foreign Travel, - • - 187-

C H AFTER XIV.

ATHENS, ANCIENT AND MODERN.— SIGHTS AND SCENES IN THE GRECIAN CAPITAL.

First Impressions of Athens — Opinion of the " Doubter" — " Not Worth Damming"— The Oldest Inhabitant of Athens — Celebrated Ruins — Reminiscences of Greek Grammar — A "Big Injun" on Greek — Drinking Beer on Sacred Soil — A Toper-graphical Survey — The Acropolis — What Is It ? — The Temple of Jupiter Olympus — Seven Hundred Years in Building — A Young Englishman in a Scrape — Sunset from the Acropolis — Byron's Glorieus Lines— The Parthenon and its Surroundings — Foundations of the Ancient Citadel — Excavations of Antiquarians — Greek Art — An Important Discovery — The Line of Beauty, 197

CHAPTER XV.

ROUND ABOUT ATHENS.— THE COUNTRY OF THE BRIGANDS.

Mars' Hill, the Place where St. Paul Preached on the Unknown God — The Prison of Socrates — The Country of the Brigands — Escorted by Greek Sol-

CONTENTS. XV

diers — Captures by the Brigands — How they Treat Captives — Extorting Ransoms — Buying Coins and Relics — Swindling Travellers — Among the Ruins — Strange Contrasts — "Chaffing" the Guide — Position of the Persian and Grecian Hosts — Xerxes' Throne — " The King Sate on the Rocky Brow " — Making the Ascent by Proxy — " I No Go ze Mountain " — The Battle of Marathon — A Survivor of the Battle — How the Victory was Won, 213

CHAPTER XVI.

THE GLORY OF ATHENS.— ITS SIGHTS, SCENES, RUINS, AND RELICS.

The Opera at Athens — Handsome Greeks — The King and Queen — A Lovely Trio — Losing a Heart — Byron's "Maid of Athens" — How She Looked — Her House and History — The Acropolis by Moonlight — Waking the Guard — A Sham Permit — "Backsheesh" — The Parthenon by Night — Greek Gypsies — Among the Curiosity Shops — Dr. Schliemann and his Trojan Discoveries — The Gold and Silver Vases of King Priam — Where they were Found — Relics of the Sack of Troy — Curious Workmanship — Some Account of the Excavations — We Leave Athens — A Queer Steamer — " Pay or Go to Prison " — End of Our Steamship Adventure, - - 225

CHAPTER XVII.

ADVENTURES IN QUARANTINE.— RHODES AND ITS MARVELS.

Missing our Steamer — A Serious Dilem.ma — A Study of Faces — Making a Row and What Came of It — Under the Yellow Flag — Adventures of a Quarantined Traveller — Escaping the Plague — Mal-de-Mer — A Laughable Incident — Getting on our Sea-Legs — Custom-House Troubles — The Potency of "Backsheesh" — Oriental Fashions in New York — "Doing "a Custom-House Inspector — A Curious Tradition— The "Lamb" as a Trade Mark — The Temple of Diana — One of the "Seven Wonders" — Singular Discoveries — A Horde of Scoundrels — The Island of Rhodes — The Colossus—A Wonderful City — The Knights of St. John — Their Exploits — Surrendering to the Turks, ■..,..- 236

XVI CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVIII.

SYRIA, THE LAND OF THE SUN.— DRAGOMEN, GUIDES, AND COURIERS.

A Rough Night on Shipboard — A Sea-Sick Turk — What he Said — Rum and Petroleum — Meditations on Turkish Hash — The Camel, his Tricks and Uses — A Knowing Brute — How he Shirks a Burden — George Smith, the Assyrian Savan — Beyrout — Its Antiquities and Wonders — Going on Shore — The Dragoman and his Office — Eastern Guides and their Character — Travelling on Horseback in Syria — The Road to Damascus — An Unexpected Trouble — Paying Fare by Weight — Disadvantages of a Heavy "Party "—A Trial of Wits— Waking up the Judge— Telling White Lies— The " Doubter's " Predicament, 252

CHAPTER XIX.

THE GROVES OF LEBANON.— A NIGHT AMONG THE ARABS.

The " Sights " of Beyrout — Excursion to Dog River — An Obstinate Carriage- Owner — How he was " Euchred " — Moral of this Incident — Off for Damascus — Ascending Mt. Lebanon — An Arab Driver — Cultivating " Kalil ", our Jehu — The Cedars of Lebanon — A Grove as Old as Solomon's Temple— A Wonderful Old City— The Temple of the Sun— Mystery of Tadmor — Cyclopean Masonry — Monstrous Monoliths — Their Dimensions — The "Doubter's" Doubts and their Solution — Sleeping in an Arab House — What we Saw There — Divans as Couches — A Dangerous Valley — The Robber's Haunt, 264

CHAPTER XX.

DAMASCUS.— THE GARDEN CITY OF THE EAST.

Dimitri and his Hotel — Court-Yards and Fountain — How People Live in Damascus — Parlors, Bed-Rooms and Boudoirs — A Bet and its Decision —

CONTENTS. XVU

The "Doubter and his Donkey"— The Street called "Straight"— Bab- Shurky — Spots Famous in History — Shaking Hands across a Street — Scene of St. Paul's Conversion — The Window of Escape — Tombs of Mohammed's Wives — The "Doubter" Figuring on Probabilities — An Unexpected Upset — Visiting the Leper's Hospital — A Frightful Spectacle — The Great Mosque — View from the Minaret — The Bazaars and Curiosity Shops — Making a Trade — A Case of Fraud, 278

CHAPTER XXI.

SYRIAN LIFE.— DEALERS IN HUMAN FLESH.— WE TRY "ZE LUXURIES OF ZE BATH."

In the Slave-Market — A Dealer in Human Flesh — A Stealthy Trade — Examining Female Slaves — Serfdom in Syria — Inside Views of a Syrian Household — Jewish Houses — An Oriental Song — Smoking with the Ladies — Syrian Customs — A Famous Arab Chief — Visiting Abd-el-Kader's House — The City of the Caliphs — Taking a Bath — Mohammed and his Trowsers — A New Species of Cushion — The Bath-House — Disrobing — Securing our Valuables — M slem Honesty — Sitting Down in a Hot Place — Gustave's Misadventure — Undergoing a Shampoo — Rubbed to a Jelly — The Couch of Repose — A Delicious Sensation — "All ze Luxuries," .... 290

CHAPTER XXII.

TRAVELLING IN A CARAVAN.— SIGHTS ON THE WAY,

Turning our Faces Eastward — The Land of the Sun — Palmyra, Bagdad, and Babylon — The Desert in Summer and Winter — A Dangerous Road — The Robbers of the Wilderness — Ruins in the Desert — A City of Wonders — The Haunts of the Bedouins — Engaging an Escort — The Start f jr Palmyra— On a Dromedary's Back — The Environs of Damascus — A Bed on the Sand — " Every One to his Taste " — A Knavish Governor — Winking at Robbery — In the Desert — On the great Caravan Track — Caravansaries, What Are they ? — The High Road to India — An Arab Fountain, - - 300 2

XVlll CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXIII.

TENT-LIFE AMONG THE BEDOUINS.— THE WARRIORS OF THE DESERT.

Among the Bedouins — A Genuine Son of the Desert — High-Toned Robbers — A Sample of Bedouin Hospitality — Etiquette in an Arab Encampment — A Case of Insult — Tent-Life and its Freedom — A Nation of Cavalry-Warriors— Bedouin Dress, Manners and Customs — Their Horses and Weapons — A Singular Custom — A Caricature Steed and his Rider — Arab Scare- Crows — On the Road to Palmyra — A Mountain of Ruins — The Grand Colonnade — The Temple of the Sun — A Building Half a Mile in Circumference— An Earthquake, and What It Did — Tne City of the Caliphs, - 307

CHAPTER XXIV.

ADVENTURES IN THE MOUNTAINS OF SYRIA.

■Doing" Syria — The " Short " and the " Long " Route — How to Choose Them — Engaging a Dragoman — Farewell to Damascus — Preying on Travellers— The Wonderful Rivers of Syria — Crossing the Desert — A Picture of Deso ation — Scene of St. Paul's Conversion — A Striking Contrast — Ancient Ruins and Modern Hovels — A Night with the Bedouins — A Hard Road to Travel — A Glorious View — The " Doubter's " Mischance — The Lizard in the Boot — A Ludicrous Scene — Gustave's New Joke — Mollifying a Native — The Massacre at Hasbeiya — Treachery of a Turkish Colonel — Scene of Christ's Labors — In the Holy Land, 318

CHAPTER XXV.

" FROM DAN TO BEERSHEBA"— JOURNEYING THROUGH THE HOLY LAND.

Our First Morning in Palestine — Breaking Camp at Banias — " From Dan to Beersheba " — Explanation of the Phrase — The Cup of the Hills — The

CONTENTS. XIX

Golden Calf of Jeroboam — Story of Vishnu and his Idol — An Incident and its Moral — The Battle-fields of Joshua — A Singular Species of Plough — The " Doubter " in a Quandary — Joseph's Pit — The Sea of Galilee — Fishing with Poisoned Bait — Capernaum and its Ruins — Scene of Christ's Miracles— The Birthplace of Mary Magdalen— A Horde of Beggars— A Pitiful Spectacle — The Robber's Cave — Herod and his Strategy — The Jews of Tiberias — A Seedy Crowd — Ruins of the Ancient City — The Spot where Christ Fed the Multitude, 329

CHAPTER XXVI.

IN THE HEART OF PALESTINE.

Bathing in the Sea of Galilee — Standing on Holy Ground — How the "Doubter " was Unhorsed — A Second Absalom — Lunching on the Summit of Tabor — Saracenic Vengeance — A Reminiscence of the Crusades — A Magnificent Sight — Discussing "Backsheesh" with the Natives — The "Doubter" as a Cashier — The Grotto of the Holy Family— Mary's House — The House of Loretto— The Story of the Miracle— The Monk and the *■ Doubter " — Dean Stanley's Explanation — Joseph's Tool Chest — The " Doubter's " Demand — The Witch of Endor " At Home *' — Blood-Revenge — A Pertinacious Feud — Saul and the Witch, 341