A Narrative of a Visit to the Australian Colonies ... Illustrated by three maps, fifteen etchings, and several wood-cuts

Chapter I

Voyage to Van Diemens Land. — Embarkation. — Emigrant Pensioners. — Disorderly Conduct. — Intemperance. — The Ocean. — Bottled Water.— Petrels. — Coast of Spain. — Birds.— Storm. — Danger. — Equator. — Sunset. — Trinidad ' and Martin Vaz. — Funeral. — Whales. — Fishes. — Albatross. — African Coast. — Cape Town. — Schools. — Slavery. — Public Institutions. — Religious Meeting. — Departure. — L'Agullas Bank. — Southern Ocean. — Birds. — Religious Labours. — Coastof Van Diemens Land. — Colour of the Sea. — Piratical Vessel. — Sharks. — Bad Bay. — Arrival at Hobart Town 1

Chapter II

Hobart Town. — Colonel Arthur. — Intense Sleep. — J. Leach. — Unexpected Meeting. — Home. — Meetings for Worship. — The Liberty. — Convict Ship.— Prisoners. — Settlement of the Colony. — Female Factory. — Trees. — Animals. — Chain-gang. — Woody Hills. — Government Garden. — Bees. — Assigned Prisoners. — New Norfolk. — Bush Road. — The Clyde. — Green Valley. — Bothwell. — Hamilton. — Fences. — Remarkable Rock. — Porter and Thieving. — Emigrants. — Style of Living. — Animals. — Hostile Aborigines.— Hospitality. — Bush-rangers. — She Oak. — Plains. — Remarkable Impression. — Sawyers' Huts. —Inn 14

Chapter III

Hobart Town. — Pious Persons. — Penitentiary. — Temperance Society. — Kings Pits. — Shrubs. — Fern Valley. — School Meeting. — Voyage to Macquarie Harbour. — Prison Ship. — Piracy of the Cypress. —Prisoners. — Loss of the Science. — Fish. — Penguin. — Storm. — Port Davey. — Cockatoos. — Land Lobster. — Excursions. — Sharks. — Swearing. — Storm. — Sea Fowl. — Entrance of Macquarie Harbour 32 . S

Chapter IV

, Macquarie HSrbour. — Mountains. — Trees. — Rivers. — Sarahs Island. — Timber. — State of Prisoners. — Mortality. — Murders. — Privations. — Escapes. — Cannibalism. — Example. — Punishment. — Reformation. — Pious Prisoner. — Depravity. — Employment.— Provisions. — Pine-roads. — Phillips Island. — Ferns. — Health. — Climate. — Spirits. — Bermuda Prisoners. — Wellington Head.— Jail Meetings. CONTENTS. IV —Prisoner Steward.— Spaniel and Blackfish.— Aborigines.— Kelp.— Lichen. — Birds 47

Chapter V

Report to the Lieutenant Governor. — Thanksgiving. — Death of a Pensioner. — ■War. — Clarence Plains. — Hospitality. — Government Schools. — Chain-gang. — Scorpion. — Centipedes. — Muddy Plains. — Settlers. — South Arm. — Liberty. — Kangaroo. — Box and Cow Fishes. — Illicit Spirit Dealer. — Princess Royal Stranded. — Snow Storm. — Richmond. — Trees. — Imported Fruit-trees. — New Houses. — Bush-rangers. — Security. — Meeting. — Coal River. — Settlers. — Oven Hills. — Orielton. — Wages paid at Public Houses. — Sorell Town. — Windmill. — Rich Land. — Temperance Meeting. — Lower Settlement. — Sober Anglo- Tasmanians. — View. — Spring. — Birds, &c. — Anniversary of Departure from England 60

Chapter VI

, Attendance of Meetings. — Religious Communications. — Embarkation for Flinders Island. — Gape Roaul. — Port Arthur. — Perilous Situation. — Cape Pillar. — ■ Birds. — Maria Island. — Spring Bay. — Prisoner Seaman. — Octopodia. — Freycinets Peninsula. — Trees, Sec. — Black Swans. — Schouten Passage. — Mutton Birds. — Swan Island. — Banks's Strait. — Superstition of Sailors. — Wreck. — Preservation Island. — Sealers and Native Women. — Black Snakes. — Green Island : 70

Chapter VII

Discovery of Van Diemens Land. — Its Position and Character. — Aborigines. — Erroneous Ideas of. — Attack upon. — Provocations. — Hostilities of. — Attempt to Capture. — G. A. Robinson's Mission. — Settlement in Bass's Straits. — Flinders Island. — Productions. — Manners of the Natives. — Dances. — Civilization. — Sealer and Child. — Breakwinds. — Song. — Clothing. — Capacity. — Ornaments. — Sickness. — Birds, &c. — Excursion. — Cookery. — Dogs. — Mangroves. — Kangaroo Rat. — Bandicoot. — Rain. — Commandant's Hut. — " Boatswain," a Native Woman. — Sealers. — Tasmanian Porcupine. — Wallowing in Ashes. — Gratitude. — Weapons. — Green Island. — Mutton Birds. — Music. — Tide-ripple. — Arrival at George Town 78

Chapter VIII

George Town. — The Tamar River. — Launceston. — Meeting. — Aborigines. — Plants. — Leeches. — Kangaroos. — Middle Arm. — Tide Ripple. — North Coast. — Blacks charged with Murder. — Mode of Transferring Fire. — Black Women Rescued. — Circular Head. — Van Diemens Land Company's Establishment. — Islands. — Woolnorth. — Rocks. — Cape Grim. — Bird Islands. — Kelp. — Mutton Fish. — Native Doctor. — Seeking a Needle. — Decoration. — Remembrance of Absent Friends. — Habitations. — Tribes. — Burning the Dead 95

Chapter IX

Circular Head. — Anchorage. — Highfield Plain. — Work People. — Indentured Servants — Flagellation. — Eagles. — Sponges. — Shells — Crabs. — Weather. — Ants. — Journey. — Rivers. — Grass-trees. — Blandfordia. — Banksia serratifolia. — Human Bones. — Scrub and Fern. — Fossil Shells. — Table Cape. — Trees, &c. — Emu Bay. — Magnificent Forest. — Gigantic Trees.— Tree Ferns. — Plains. — Aborigines. — Road. — Arrival at the Hampshire Hills CONTENTS. V

Chapter X

Hampshire Hills Plants Burning the Grass, &c. — Surrey Hills — St. Marys Plain. — Shrubs Excursion to Emu Bay. — Rocks Gigantic Trees Man Lost Dense Forest. — Aborigines St. Valentines Peak. — Animals. — Hostile Natives. — Edible Fungi. — Native Potato. — Measurement of Trees. — Exploratory Ramble. — Skill of Aborigines. — Myrtle Forest. — Animals. — Compass. — Attack upon the Aborigines. — Leeches.— Dense Forest. — Cataract. — Free Servants. — Reckless Drunkenness. — Quantity of Rain. — Snow. — Burleigh.— Black Bluff.— Vale of Belvoir.— Epping Forest.— Snakes.— " Great Western Road." — Forth and Mersey Rivers — Circular Pond Marshes. — Burning Forest. — Caverns. — Dairy Plains. — Westbury. — Depravity. — Arrival at Launceston 11^

Chapter XI

Launceston. — Foolish Washerwoman. — Lizard and Grasshopper. — Religious Meetings. — Perth. — Norfolk Plains. — Wheat Crops — Rioter. — Lake and Macquarie Rivers. — Summer Snow. — Hummocky Hills. — Profanity. — Campbell Town and Ross. — Salt Pan Plains. — Oatlands. — Jericho. — The Jordan. — Cross Marsh. — Green Ponds. — Constitution Hill. — Bagdad. — Blistered Feet. —Rate of Walking.— Hobart Town 131

Chapter XII

, Hobart Town. — Lieutenant Governor. — Penal Discipline. — Reformed Prisoners. — Intemperance and Indiscretion. — Sheriff's Writs. — Timber-fellers. — Meeting Room Engaged. — Meeting. — Journey. — Anxiety for Liberty. — Infidel Prisoners. — Brushy Plains. — Prisoner's View of Transportation. — Prossers River. — Spring Bay. — Kangaroo Grass. — Swan Port. — Cultivated Land. — Oyster Bay Pine. — Road. — Kelvedon. — Waterloo Point — Gunnia australis. — Ministry of F. C. — Character of the Land. — Shrubs. — Black Swans. — Boomer Kangaroo. — St. Patricks Head. — Dwelling. — Timber. — Whales. — Mountains. — Tea. — Break o'day Plains. — "Dead Mens Graves."— Buffalo Plaihs. — Kindness of Aborigines. — Launceston. — Flinders Blacks. — Road Party. — Flagellation. — Weather. — Diseases. — Death of a Prisoner. — Intemperance. — Music. — Spring. — Ben Lomond. — Gums. — Fossil Tree. — Salt Springs. — Eagles. — Trees. . 137

Chapter XIII

Meeting for Discipline Established. — Meetings for Worship. — Temperance Lecture. — Flagellation. — Causes of Crime. — Judicial Oaths. — Peculiarities of Friends. — Chain Gang. — Unsteady Emigrant. — Ascent of Mount Wellington. — Notice of a Pious Prisoner 154

Chapter XIV

Second Visit to Flinders Island. — West Coast Aborigines. — Dislike to Fat. — Emigrants. — Bruny Island. — Port Arthur. —Guard of Dogs, &c. — Discipline Diving of Native Women. — Shamrock Stranded. — Flinders Island —Planting Potatoes. — Difference. — Civilization. — Grass-tree Plains. — Prime Seal Island. — Spears. — Climbing Trees. — Comparative Skill. — Mustering. — Cleanliness. — Catechist. — Light-house. — Bush-rangers. — Launceston 165

Chapter XV

Launceston. — Meetings. — Pious Prisoner.— Improvements. — Aborigines' Merchandise. — Meeting at George Town. — Rambles. — York Town. — Trout. — VI CONTENTS. Voyage.— Flinders Island.— Kangaroo Apple.— Greeting.— Distribution of Clothing.— Native Chief.— Fire.— Notions of Supernatural Influence, and a Future Existence. — Departure from Flinders Island.— Intemperance. — Cutter driven upon the Rocks. — Recklessness. — Dangerous Situation. — Arrival at Kclvedon 176

Chapter XVI

Kelvedon.— Meetings. — Soldier Injured. — Papal Penance. — Animals Poisoned. — Instinct.— Use of Spirits in Whaling, &c— Toad-fish.— The Saddle.— Eastern Marshes. — Dead Trees. — Farm. — Settler and his Flock. — Sheep Lands. — Opossums. — Meetings at Oatlands and Jericho. — Sheep and Wool. — Native Cat. — Dairy Farm. — Vale of the Jordan. — Platypus. — Black Brush. — The Carlton. — Visiters — Inns. — Temperance Reformation. — Richmond. — Jerusalem. — Drought. — Parrots. — Green Ponds. — Settlers. — Invalid Road Party. — Mill. — New Norfolk. — Meetings. — Forlorn Prisoner. — Pious Settler. — Prisoners at Bridgewater. — Return to Hobart Town. — Indisposition 185

Chapter XVII

Hobart Town. — Meeting Places. — Discontinuance of Reading Meetings. — Week-day Meetings. — Ministers. — Meetings to which the Public were Invited. — Prayer. —Principles of Friends. — Base-line. — Perjury. — Prisoner Boy. — Grass-tree Hill. — Esculent Vegetables. — Silent Meetings. — Flagellation. — Monthly Meetings. — Reflections. — Report on Chain Gangs and Road Parties. — Traffic of the Blacks. — " Guide to True Peace." — Colonial Hospital. — J. Johnson. — Orphan School. — Penitentiary 195

Chapter XVIII

Browns River. — Potatoes. — Cordage-trees. — Hobart Town Jail. — Meetings. — Baptism. — Condemned Criminals. — Ministry. — Comparison of the Stock-keepers with the Sons of Jacob. — Musk Rat. — Convineement by Reading " Barclay's Apology." — Ministry. — Kangaroo Hunter. — Naming of Places in Van Diemens Land. — Penguins. — Albatross. — Morepork. — Delay. — Ministry of G. W. W. — Penitent Prisoner. — Trying Occurrences. — Seven-mile Beach. — Holothuridæ. — Drunken Prisoners, &c. — Awkward Travelling. — Arrival at Kelvedon. — Fruit Trees. — Black Swans. — Arrival of D. and C. Wheeler. — Coralines, &c. — Cranes. — Track Lost. — Return to Hobart Town 205

Chapter XIX

Old Johnson. — Prayer. — Spiritual Poverty. — Yearly Meeting. — Meeting at New Norfolk. — Influenza — Cold of Mount Wellington. — Mantis. — Sale of Spirits. — Calumny. — Visit to Port Arthur. — Doughboy Island. — Black-backed Gull. — Commandant bewildered in the Forest. — State of the Penal Settlement. — Scurvy. — Educated Prisoners. — School. — Employment. — Convict Boys. — Coal Mine. — Black Snake. — Coal. — Plants. — Return to Hobart Town. — Letter. — Meetings. — Laws of Primogeniture and Entail. — Pensioners. — Rural Dean. —Surgeon of the Alligator 221

Chapter XX

Voyage to Sydney. — Cape Howe. — Diversity of Gifts. — Dangerous Situation. — Port Jackson. — Sydney. — Religious Instruction. — Aborigines. — Rock Oysters. — Brugmansia. — Visit to the Governor. — Projected Visit to Norfolk Island. — Meetings on Ship-board. — S. Marsdcn. — New Year's Day. — Shrubs. — "Brick- CONTENTS. VII fielder." — First Meetings on Shore. — Temperance Meeting. — Works of Creation. — Visit to the Governor, at Parramatta. — Card Playing. — Snake. — Elizabeth Bay. — Fig-tree and Acrosticum grande. — Peaches. — Plants. — School Meeting. — Group of Aborigines. — Parasites. — Meeting in the Court-House. — Luminous Appearances in the Sea. — New Zealand Hostages. — Imposition on Medical Men. — Meeting on Board the Henry Porcher 230

Chapter XXI

Arrangements for Visiting Norfolk Island. — Departure. — Adverse Winds. — Shark and Pilot-fish. — Seamen. — Spiritual Navigation. — Jelly-fish. — "The Elizabeth" Whaler. — Tropic Bird. — Norfolk Island. — Departure of D. and C. Wheeler. — Orange Vale. — Oak. — Geology. — Features of the Island. — Norfolk Island Pine and Tree-fern. — Fruits. — Description of Prisoners. — Assemblies for Worship.— Jail 245

Chapter XXII

Norfolk Island. — Kings Town. — Occupation of Prisoners. — Mitigation of Sentence. — Freycinctia. — New Zealand Flax. — Agriculture. — Pigeons. — Cats. — Fly-catchers. — Parrots. — Dying Prisoner. — Ansons Bay. — Wistaria ? — Ipomœa pcndula. — "The Sisters" Pines — Jasminum gracile. — Lagunca Patersonii. — Burial of a Prisoner. — Improvement among the Prisoners. — Provisions. — Sweet Potato. — Profanity. — Perjury. — Madraporcs. — Sea Anemonies. — Papal Prayers. — Teaching of the Spirit 255

Chapter XXIII

Norfolk Island. — Disinclination to receive Religious Instruction. — Prisoners' Barracks. — Iron. — Flagellation. — Overseers. — Sentence to Penal Settlements. — Sick Prisoners. — Rocks. — Cape Gooseberry. — Palm. — Wood-quest. N. I. Pines. — Roman Catholic Prisoners. — Cleanliness. — Temperature. — Reckless Prisoner. — Felling-gang. — Plants. — The Cascade. — Flora of N. I. — Sugar Cane. — Rum. — Christian Doctrine 262

Chapter XXIV

Norfolk Island. — Cave. — Remarkable Shrubs. — Mount Pitt. — Group of Islands. — Capture of a Parrot. — Marrattia. — Petty Sessions. — Marine Animals. — ■ Tree-ferns. — Animals. — Visit of Officers to Phillip Island. — Guavas. — True Church. — Return of Officers. — Wild-boar. — Runaway Prisoner. — Religious Interviews. — Luminous Fungus. — Prisoner's History. — Tidings. — Relapses. — Parting Opportunities. — Penitent Prisoners. — Departure. — Prisoners' Letters. — Voyage. — Storm. — Lord Howes Island. — Portuguese Man-of-War. — Arrival at Sydney. — Disorderly Soldiers 270

Chapter XXV

Sydney. — Penal Discipline of Norfolk Island Re-modelled. — Epistle to Friends in Hobart Town. — Meetings. — Unclaimed Property of Deceased Persons. — Drought. — Shrubs. — Thoughtless Young Men. — Conceited Woman. — Prayer in Spirit. — Australian School Society. — Unworthy Descendants of Friends. — Blacks Fishing. — Species of Callitris. — Ministry. — Shrubs. — Friends' Books. — D. and C. AVheeler. — J. Leach. — Consumption. — Meeting at Cooks River. — Travelling in New South Wales. — Mounted Police. — Meeting at the North Shore. — Botany Bay. — Dye-woods, &c. — Grass-tree. — Sweet Tea. — Miasmal Fever CONTENTS.

Chapter XXVI

Sydney.— Meetings —Australian Settlers.— Weather.— Zamia — Vegetable Instinct.— Benevolent Society.— Aborigines.— Gospel Labourers.— Temperance Lectures.— Liverpool.— Bible Meeting.— Hospital. — Unsteady Emigrants. — Work of the Spirit —Persevering Prayer.— L. E. Threlkeld. —Invalids from India. — Temperance Committee. — Bible Meeting.— Spring. — Loquat.— Deciduous Trees. . . : 293

Chapter XXVII

Journey to Wellington Valley. — Preliminary Arrangements. — Visit to Parramatta. — Factory. — Orphan School. — Lunatic Asylum. — Kissing Point. — Bush Fire. — Drought. — Schools, &c. — Meetings. — Civilization of the Natives. — Forest. —South Creek. — Dislike of the Blacks to go far from Home.— Penrith. — Blue Mountains. — Ironed-gangs. — Huts and Caravans of Prisoners. — Weather-board Hut. — Views. — Cold.— Black Heath. — Mountain Road. — Bullocks. — Eagles.— Mount Victoria Pass.— Vale of Clywd. — Hellvellyn. — River Oak. — Junction Stockade. Honeysuckle Hill. — Drunken Landlord. — Bathurst. — Drunkenness. — Famine. — The Rocks. — Newton. — Sheep. — Wild Dogs. — Exhaustion. — Molong River. — Birds.— Limestone. — Newry. — Welcome. — Stock-keeper and Blacks. — Sheep-feeding — Cottages. — Arrival at Wellington Valley 300

Chapter XXVIII

AVellington Valley. — Mission Station. — Worship. — Doctrine. — Mission Stock. — Aborigines. — Morals. — Language. — Aquatic Plants. — Myami. — Honey. — Animals, — Food of the Natives. — Cavern. — Mount Arthur. — Shrubs, &c. — Burial Place. — Public AVorship of Friends. — European Influence. — Grass. — Initiation of Blacks as Young Men. — Native AVomen. — Prisoner Servants. — Molong. — Effects of Drunkenness. — Infanticide. — Feigned Intoxication. — Kangaroo Bay. — Civilization and Missionary Labours. — Milk. — Help in Time of Need. — Pious Fellow Traveller. — Definition of Love. — Bathurst. — Verdure 315

Chapter XXIX

Bathurst. — Climate of N. S. Wales. — Public Worship. — Doctrine of Baptism. — Settlers. — Bank. — Prisons. — Woodlands. — Geology. — O'Connell Plains. — Spiritual Worship. — Fish River. — Dogs and Snakes — Milk. — Prisoners — Shrubs. — Blue Mountains. — Black Heath. — Govetts Leap. — Awful Death. — Couch Grass. — Penrith. — Flagellation. — Nepean. — Doctrine. — Vineyard. — Absence of Dew. — Horses destroyed by Thirst. — Nepean River. — Castlereagh. — Windsor. — Richmond. — Information of a Black. — Pitt Town and Wilberforce. — Unfaithful Professor. — Pious Persons. — Temperance Meeting. — Jail. — Religious Meetings. — Currajong. — Country. — Maize and Wheat Crops. — Orange Orchards. — Return to Sydney 331

Chapter XXX

Opening of Friends' Meeting House, at Sydney. — Voyage to Van Diemens Land. — Escape from Danger.— Electric Phenomena. — Arrival at Hobart Town. — State of the Congregation of Friends — Yearly Meeting. — Journey to Kelvedon, Falmouth, Launceston, &c. — Dangerous Riding. — Hunting Cattle. — Gentleness of Bulls. — Accident. — Launceston. — Influence of Strong Drink. — Religious Attainments. — Mounds of Oyster Shells. — Remarkable Tide. — High Rents. — Hospitals. — Irrigation. — Wesleyans. — Progress of Temperance. — Return to Sydney CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XXXI

Sydney. — Religion of Feelings. — Botanic Garden.— Collection of Vines. — Self Examination. — Library of Friends' Books. — Destruction of Spirits — Discord and Tale-bearing. — Temperance Lecture. — Scripture Lessons of the British and Foreign School Society. — Voyage to Moreton Bay. — State of the Prisoners. — Effects of Spirit-drinking. — Afflictions. — Mount Warning, &"c. — Arrival in Moreton Bay. — Tree Oysters. — Arrival at Brisbane Town 350

Chapter XXXII

Moreton Bay. — Brisbane Town. — Gardens. — Tread-mill. — Swearing. — Plants, &c. — Natives. — Prisoners. — Family Worship. — Trees, &c. — Plants, and Animals. — Female Prisoners. — Wood. — Destruction of Spirits. — Teredo. — Kangaroos, &c. — Birds.— Want of Bibles. — Absconders. — Aborigines 358

Chapter XXXIII

Departure from Brisbane Town. — Plumbago. — Fishes and Birds. —Dugong. — Stradbroke Island. — Amity Point. — Aborigines. — Penal Regulations. — Moreton Island. — Trees. — Crabs. — Amusements. — Huts. — Native Dogs. — Fish. — Manufacture. — Mangroves, &c. — Animals. — Fight of Natives. — Mistake in the Name of Biscuit. — Departure from Moreton Bay. — Storms. — Arrival at Newcastle. -- Native Guides. — Ebenezer. — Aborigines. — Amusement. — Missionary Labours. — Civilization of the Blacks. — Amount of Native Population. — Forest. — Remarkable Spring. — Gregarious Caterpillars. — Wages of Blacks .... 368 CHATTER XXXIV. Sydney. — Tidings of D. and C. Wheeler. — Aborigines in Towns. — Work of the Spirit. — Grant of a Burial Ground. — Reformed Prisoner. — Wills. — Trial of Blacks. — Bibles in Strange Tongues. — Meetings. — Voyage to Maitland. — Drunkenness. — Season. — Ironed Gangs.— Fossils. — Country. — Plants. — Arthurs Vale. — Management of Prisoners. — St. Aubins. — "Prisoners of Australia." — Plants. — Rain. — Sheep. — Snow. — Mount Wingen. — Objects of Curiosity. — Return to Maitland. — Compass, &c. — Geology. — Cockfighters Bridge. — Prisoners. — Bibles and Card Playing. — Small Congregations. — Friends' Principles.— Self Delusion 385

Chapter XXXV

Maitland. — Cedar Brushes.— Morpeth. — Retired Officer. — Faithful Spaniel. — Raymonds Terrace.- Pottery. — Country. — Plants. — Reformed Prisoner. — Port Stephens. — Carrington. — Territory of the Australian Agricultural Company. — Kurua River. -- Booral. — Stroud. — Stock. — Land Speculations. Blacks. — Dingadee. — Wallaroba. — Paterson. — Libraries. — Maitland. — Newcastle. — Meetings. — Coal-works. — Voyage to Port Macquarie. — Lake Cottage. — Penal Establishment — Town. — Rocks. — Prisoners. — Wilson River. — Trees &c. — Rollins Plaius. — Natives. — Sugar Canes. — Tacking Point We od. — Acrosticum grande. — State of Prisoners. — Return to Sydney 397

Chapter XXXVI

Sydney. — Plants. — Liverpool. — Hospital Patient. — State of Society. — Lansdowne Bridge. — Jail. — Male Orphan School. — Campbell Town. — Wretched Prison. Fall of the Limb of a Tree. — Appin. — State of the Population. — Buli Road. Illawarra. — AA'ollongong. — Five Islands. — Illawarra Lake. — Country. — Pious Cottager. — Mountain Road. — Snake.— Effects of Drunkenness. — Trees. X CONTENTS. Cabbage Palm, &c.— Dapto.— Marshall Mount.— Aborigines.— Parrots, &c— Kiama.— Friends' Meetings.— Colomgatta.— AVattle Tick.— Plants.— Coluber porphyryaceus. — Transmutation.— Stinging Trees. — Snakes. — Black disposed to Settle. Want of Religious Instruction. — Implements of Blacks. — Cambewarra Mountains. — Kangaroo Ground. — Compassion. — Aborigines. — Journey to Bong Bong 415

Chapter XXXVII

Bong Bong. — Berrima. — Trees and Birds. — Marulan. — Ironed-gang. — Towrang. — Goulburn. — Hospital. — Goulburn Plains. — Menara Plains. — Sheep Feeding. — Journey to Lumley. — Effects of Porter. — Aquatic Plants, &c. — Roads. — Travelling. — Penalties. — Arthurslee. — English Plants. — AVombat Brush.— White Ants. — Return to Throsby Park and Bong Bong. — Sheep Shearing. — Mittagong. — Bargo Brush. — Drunkenness. — Jarvis Field. — Brownlowe Hill. — Hot AVinds. — Prisoner Shepherd. — Camden. — Seasons. — Hay. — Opossums. — Pursuits of Settlers. — Cobbity. — Influenza. — Winbourne. — Mulgoa. — Duneved. — Milking Wild Cattle. — The Vineyard. — Parramatta. — Pennant Hills. — Kissing Point. — Lunatic Asylum. — Return to Sydney 437

Chapter Xxxviii

Sydney. — Married Emigrants. — High Wind. — Sudden Death. — Coach Travelling. — Delusion. — Hot AVind, &c. — Meetings in Sydney. — Destitute New Zealanders. — Visit to the Prisons in Sydney. — Hyde Park Barracks. — Carters Barracks. — Tread-mill. — New. Jail. — Tunnel from the Botany Bay Swamps. — Phœnix Hulk. — Goat Island. — Address to the Prisoner Population. — Old Jail. — Colonial Hospital. — Prisoner's Letter. — Benevolent Asylum. — Books, &e. — Oaths and Affirmations. — Address to the Free Inhabitants 451

Chapter XXXIX

North Harbour. — Pumice-stone. — Animals, &c. — School and Temperance Societies. — Tidings of D. and C. AVheeler. — Report to the Governor. — Sense of Unprofitableness. — Botany Bay. — La Perouse. — Circumnavigation. — Butterflies. — Fishermen. — Silent Meetings. — Drunkenness. — Convict Servants. — Arrival of D. and C. Wheeler. — Visit to the Governor. — Refraction. — Factory. — Aborigines. — Elizabeth Macquarie. — Departure from N. S. Wales. — Voyage to V. D. Land. — Jervis Bay. — Sheds, &c. of Aborigines. — Jelly-fish. — Storm. — Lying to. — Albatross. — Arrival at Hobart Town 461

Chapter XL

Hobart Town. — State of the Meeting of Friends. — Sir John Franklin. — Party Spirit. — Temperance. — Pensioners. — J. Johnson. — Weight. — Aurora australis. — Schools. — Infants at Meeting. — Journey. — Improvements. — Kelvedon. — Baptism for the Dead. — Drought. — Increase of Opossums, &c. — Affecting Accident. — Gibbet. — Launceston. — Barton. — Successful Emigrant. — Campbell Town and Ross. — Frost. — Observations on Temperature. — Vale of Bagdad. — Prisoners at Work. — Return to Hobart Town 471

Chapter XLI

Hobart Town. — Recording Ministers. — Conversion of a Unitarian. — Journey. Climate and Diseases. — Hamilton. — Frost. — Falling-stars. — Stranded Whale. — Birth-day. — Convict Discipline. — Captain Maconochie's System. — D. and C. Wheeler. — Meeting Premises and Burial Ground. — Death of J. Johnson. — CONTENTS. XI New Norfolk. — Sudden Death. — Affirmation Act. — Yearly Meeting. — Aborigines on Flinders Island. — Sir John and Lady Fiinklin. — Dr. Foreman and Female Prisoners. — Reformed Drunkard. — Departure from V. D. Land . . 480

Chapter XLII

Voyage to Tort Phillip. — Passengers. — Mutton Birds. — Islands. — Port Phillip. — Mission Station. — Effect of Fear upon a man bitten by a Serpent. — Indifference. — Melbourne. — Business and Wages. — Aborigines. — Influence of Society. ■ — Esculent Roots. — Animals. — Country. — Natives' Baskets. — W. Buckley. — Lyre Bird.— Wild Dog.— Sheep 495

Chapter XLIII

Voyage to South Australia. — Kings Island. — South Coast of Australia. — St. Vincents Gulf. — Holdfast Bay. — South Australia. — Adelaide. — Port Adelaide. — Torrens River. — Country. — Drunkenness. — Fires. — Aborigines.. — Unjust Legislation. — Religious Loss. — Cruelty. — Geology, Vegetation, and Entomology. — Heat. — Departure 508 CHAPTER XLIAT. Voyage to King Georges Sound. — Ka..^aroo Island.— Danger of Landing in Uninhabited Places.— Birds, &c. — King Georges Sound. — Albany. — Vegetation. — Inebriety. — Indolence. — Aborigines. — Country. — Plants. — Cape Leeuwin. — Voyage to thc Swan River 522

Chapter XLV

Swan River Settlement. — Freemantle. — Swan and Canning Rivers. — Perth. — Visit to the Governor, &c. — Sentiments respecting the Aborigines. — Plain of Quartania. — Trial of a Black. — Country. — Shells, Fish, &c. — Temperature, and Heated Sand. — Books, &c. — Thc Peninsula. — Guildford. — York District. — Poisoning of Sheep. — Toogcc Country. — Ruinous Effects of Rum. — Price of Land. — Revenue and Sources of Income. — Population. — Spirit Law.— Fruits Upper Swan. — Customs of the Aborigines. —Neglect of Civilization. — Meeting. — Bush Fires. — Zamias. — Native Fair and Customs 529

Chapter XLVI

Swan River. — Drunkenness. — Fights of the Aborigines. — Temperance Meeting. — Evils connected with thc use of Spirits. — Explorators. — Weapons of the Blacks. — Retribution. — Amount of Black Population, &c. — Jelly-fish. — Education. — Visit of the Blacks. — Birds, &c. — Aurora australis. — Intemperance of Seamen. — Revenge and Expiation of Injuries among thc Aborigines. — Embarkation. — Peaceful Retrospect 543

Chapter XLVII

Mistake respecting thc falling back of the Aborigines. — Contact of the Australians with the Malays. — Belief in Spiritual Influence. — Conscientiousness. — Superstitions. — Koin. — Tippakalleun. — Kurrur-kurran. — Nungngun. — Murrainai. — Sentiments respecting Death. — Traces of Ideas of a Future State. — Traditions respecting Creation and the Flood. — Australian Language. — Evidence. — Importance of Inquests. — Change of Feeling toward Aborigines. — Importance of Christian Principle. — Aborigines Protection Society.— Disappointment of Emigrants. — Causes of Unsettlement. — Needful Considerations respecting Emigration CONTENTS. XII

Appendix

. Page. A.— Certificates of J. Backhouse and G. W. Walker i B. — A Concise Apology for the Peculiarities of the Society of Friends, commonly called Quakers, in their Language, Costume, and Manners vi C. — The Question, "Are Judicial Oaths Lawful?" Answered, with some Observations on the Moral Influence of Judicial Oaths xv D.— Remarks on the Indigenous Vegetable Productions of Tasmania, available as food for man xxxi E. — Extract from a Report, on the State ofthe Chain Gangs and Road Parties, in Van Diemens Land xii F. — Report upon the State of the Prisoners in Van Diemens Land, with Remarks upon the Penal Discipline, and Observations on the General State of the Colony in 1834 xlvi d. — Testimonials of Hobart Town Monthly Meeting of Friends, respecting the Religious Labours of G. W. Walker lxvii H. — A Letter to Colonel Arthur, respecting Spirituous Liquors lxix I. — A Letter to the Catechist at Port Arthur lxxii J. — Prisoners' Letters Ixxvi K. — An Epistle to Friends in Hobart Town lxxx L, — An Address to the Prisoner Population of New South Wales and Van Diemens Land lxxxiii M. — A Letter addressed to James Backhouse and George Washington Walker, by a Convict confined on Goat Island, New South Wales cii N. — A Christian Address to the Free Inhabitants of New South Wales and Van Diemens Land cvi 0. — A Report on New South AVales cxxiv P. — Letters to the Governor of New Soutn Wales respecting the Aborigines cxxxiv Q. — An Epistle to persons attending the Meetings of Friends in Sydney. . cxl R. — A Letter to Van Diemens Land Yearly Meeting of Friends LIST OF PLATES, &c. Hobart Town, 1834 (Frontispiece.)

Rocks of Martin Vaz page 5 View on the Clyde, V, D. Land 27 A Fern Valley, V. D. Land 35 Entrances to Port Davey 38 Kelvedon. The Residence of Francis Cotton 142 Ben Lomond, V. D. Land 151 A Chain Gang of Convicts going to work 158 Flinders Island Grass Trees 171 Heads of Port Jackson 232 Aborigines of N. S. Wales 240 Jelly-fish. (Fig. 2, a species of Pyrosoma.) 247 Ditto 248 Ditto 249 Norfolk and Phillips Islands 250 Trees of Norfolk Island 265 Mount Warning 356 Hut of a Native, on Stradbroke Island 373 Boatman, a Native of N. S. Wales 380 Acrosticum grande 413 Cabbage Palm of N. S. Wales 426 Spears, &c. of the Natives of N. S. Wales 433 Huts of the Natives of N. S. Wales 469 Jelly-fish 469 Entrance to the Derwent, V. D. Land 487 Jelly-fish 548 Chart of the World, with the track of J. B. and G. W. W At the end.

Map of Tasmania or Van Diemens Land, with Do.* At the end. Map of New South Wales, with Do At the end. • In this map, the names of Counties are in open, Boman Capitals ; those of Hundreds and Principal Places, in plain, Boman Capitals ; and those of Parishes in Italic Capitals. ERRATA. Pa_>e. Line. 60 — 3rd from foot, for " their feeling," read this feeling. 98 — 13th from top, for "linestone," read, limestone. 112 — 7th from top, for " thes mall," read the small. 113 — 4th from foot, for " Oxtalis," read Oxalis 150 — 13th from foot, for "prisoners," read pensioners. 158— foot of plate, for " Sidney, N. S. Wales," read Hobart Town, V. D. Land. 267 — 8th from foot, for " diforme," read difforme. 286 — 10th from foot, for " 19th of 8th mo. 1837," rea&page 486. 410 — 19th from top, for " calamifolium," read calamiforme. 427 — 6th from top, for do. do. 553— 2nd from foot, for " 1341," read 1841. lvii — 6th from foot, for " as in the case," read as is the case.