Narrative of a Residence on the Mosquito Shore during the years 1839, 1840, and 1841: with an account of Truxillo, and the adjacent Islands of Bonacca and Roatan

Preface

. I have been led to offer the following pages, relative to the Mosquito Shore, in consequence of my having looked in vain for similar information, on embarking for that countiy, and severely felt the want of it on my arrival there. Much trouble, loss of time, and dis appointment — many difficulties and mishaps should I have escaped, had I been in possession of the informa tion, which my experience now enables me to present, on the manners and customs of the native tribes, the climate, seasons, and productions of the country. Fully conscious of the responsibility involved in the publication of a work, put forth as a sort of " Hand Book" of the Mosquito Shore, and deeply sympa thizing in the disappointment and misery which have

PREFACE.

. resulted to many of my countrymen, who have rashly resolved on emigration, ignorant of all they should know concerning the country in which they purpose to cast their lot, — I have, in giving the result of my experience and investigations, adhered so rigidly to facts, that I feel convinced no person will have just cause to charge me with any distortion, exaggeration, or suppression of the truth. T. Y. NARRATIVE OF A RESIDENCE ON THE MOSQUITO SHORE.

Chapter I

Departure — Distress — Scotch Mariner — Storm — Mother Carey's Chickens — Porpoises — Nautilus — Phosphorescence ol the Ocean — Madeira — Sinking a Bottle in the Ocean — Dolphins — Poisonous Fish — Shark — West India Islands — Water-spout —Alarm !— Breakers — Rocks — Land. J.N the year 1839 I accepted an engagement from the British Central American Land Company, as Deputy Superin tendent, to proceed, with a few others, to the Mosquito Shore, to form a Settlement at Black River, about eighty miles from the Central American Port of Truxillo, in the State of Hon duras, there to establish friendly relations with the people around, so that in time trade might be opened with the Spaniards in the interior, for the introduction and disposal of such British goods as they might be willing to take in exchange.

We sailed from Gravesend in July 1839, in the brig Rose, of 164 tons burthen, bound for Cape Gracias a Dios, there to deliver our credentials to the King of the Mosquito nation, Robert Charles Frederic, (who had been invested with the crown, on the demise of his brother George Frederic, with the B concurrence of the British Government,) and from thence pro ceed to Black River. For a few days after our departure from Gravesend, we had to contend with strong and adverse winds ; and as the brig was continually shipping heavy seas, the captain determined to run for Dungeness, and await a favourable wind; we therefore bore up and cast anchor. About ten p. M. a gale, which had been gaining strength for some hours, burst forth with extreme fury ; our windlass was broken in two by the heavy pitching of the vessel, and we were otherwise damaged, and in distress; the seamen however performing every order with the most cheerful alacrity.

About four a. m. our signal of distress attracted some Deal boatmen, who, finding it im possible to trip the anchor, slipped, and safely carried us into Ramsgate Harbour ; on entering which the brig sustained further damage by a Sunderland vessel running into her. We at last set sail with a fine breeze, which continued for some days, till we began to lose sight of Old England, and, as the land gradually lessened in the distance, the spell that bound us to one spot was broken by the thick shades of night. Near seven weeks elapsed before we made Cape Finisterre, owing to the succession of light and variable winds. Confined to the limits of a small vessel, the want of exercise was much felt, especially as the swell in the Bay of Biscay, even in calm weather, is considerable, exposed as it is to the broad Atlantic Ocean, so that we found it difficult to pace the deck.

An old Scotch mariner at the helm accosted me one day, and, after many turns of his quid and contortions of the face, said, " We sha'na hae ony luck this voyage, sir !" " Why ? I replied. " Because," said he, " a cat has been killed on board, and we set sail on a Friday." At these doleful tidings, the old man observing me to laugh, said, " Ah ! weel, sir, I was once young mysel, and when ye hae seen as much o' the world as I hae done, ye will aye respec an auld man's opinion." — " Can it be possible for you to be so superstitious ?" I asked : " Ca' it na superstition," replied the old storm-beaten sailor; " I ken from experience. Look yon, ye see the sun is setting in a bank, and ye may depend we shall hae a storm before long, an a' the sailors on the coast of Scotland say, — " When the sun sets in a bank, A west wind ye will na want ; And when the sun sets clear, A west wind ye need na fear.' Turning my attention to the westward, I was struck with its singular appearance ; thick clouds were fast rising, and making quickly towards us, so that in a short time we could plainly perceive the approach of a storm.

The brig having been put under easy sail was prepared for the gale, which burst forth, about midnight, from the south-west, with great fury. When it was daylight we crawled to the weather side of the quarter deck, and beheld with breathless astonishment the awful grandeur and magnificence of the boundless deep ; it was to us novices a wonderful sight — the white crested waves rising in succession, rushing and rolling with irresistible force ; at times one would come toppling on with mighty strength, and as it approached nearer and nearer, higher and higher, it seemed the herald of our inevitable doom ; each man would then h-ld his breath and take a firmer grasp, till the billow passed harmlessly by. Towards night the gale increased in violence, and although grand in the day time, it was awfully so at night — the howling of the storm — the wild and fitful blasts whistling through the rigging — the heavy rain — the brig swerving, pitching and trembling, as if she was some living thing struck with terror.

Sometimes the wind would be suddenly hushed, and a solemn stillness reigned, which to the awe-struck mind was agonizing ; and then the gale would again burst out, and strike the poor brig with wild gusts, appearing to come from all points of the compass. One heavy sea broke on the poop, nearly carrying away the man at the helm, (the same poor fellow who had foretold thc storm,) and almost swamped us in the cabin. Morning dawned, but no amendment; still lying to, the wind blowing as furious as ever. About eleven p.m., a light was b2 seen on the topmast head, called by the sailors St. Elmos' light; its appearance was that of a ball of pale blue fire, glimmering and shifting its position for a time, and then dis appearing. The sailors looked upon it with superstitious awe, and said it was a sign the heart of the storm was broken.

A Portuguese sailor threw himself upon his knees, crossing himself repeatedly, and only discontinued on the disappearance of the light, which he attributed to his prayers and intercessions. During the ensuing night the gale was less severe, but attended with lightning of a dangerous character. The conflict of the elements, and the efforts of man to combat them — the pitching and rolling of a small brig, now on the top of a high wave, and now sunk in the abyss — the orders and responses of the captain and crew in a storm, will create feelings not easily forgotten ; exemplifying in a striking manner that beautiful passage in the scriptures, " They that go down to the sea in ships, and occupy their business in great waters . these see the works of the Lord, and his wonders in the deep." The gale ceased at midnight, having lasted three nights and three days, quite long enough to make us all heartily rejoice at its termination; we then found time for the pleasant joke and merry laugh.

A few hours before the commencement of the gale, a flight of stormy petrels, commonly called Mother Carey's chickens, came near the vessel, and kept in her wake till the storm ceased. After their departure a number of porpoises were seen playing and tumbling before the bow of our vessel ; immediately a hue and cry was raised for the harpoons, which when found proved to be unserviceable, much to the regret of some ; I was however pleased, as I cannot but consider it a useless piece of cruelty to slay these creatures, for the only part now eaten is the liver, and even then caution must be used, as many have been seriously affected by partaking of it. We however read, in the Chronicles of London, that porpoises served up with a sauce composed of bread crumbs, sugar and vinegar, was a favorite dish with the English nobility, even so late as the reign of Queen Elizabeth.

One of those beautiful creatures, a nautilus, called by the sailors a Portuguese man-of-war, and by the Portuguese named Navire de guerre Inglis, now sails by, with its tiny sail hoisted to the breeze ; another, another, all sailing merrily along, a sure sign there will be at night myriads of marine insects and animalcula illumining the sea with their phosphoric light. On this subject the following verses were written, I believe, by a young lady of New England : — HAILING A PORTUGUESE MAN OF WAR. A sail ! heave to, small commodore, And put thy helm alee ; That nearer from our deck we may Thy fairy frigate see. Ay ; thou hast shortened sail— we trace Thy crimson hull's bright glow ; And lifted sail upon the wave, Reflected fair below. From whence ? how bound ? at what port touch'd ? And how long out at sea ?

A far famed man-of-war, we know No freight is borne by thee. A tiny shout comes o'er the waves, A small voice answers, hark ! 'Tis from the Portuguese, who keeps Still in our lee his barque. " I bear away for no green isle With beach of sparkling sand, Nor anchor cast, nor moor awhile My good sea-boat where fair shores smile ; Nor veer ship where stern cliffs uppile The tempest beaten strand. Perchance, as unseaworthy bye, When the long cruise is o'er, Idly thy gallant ship may lie, Yet, o'er the surf my small sail fly. Still viewed by that all glorious Eye Surveying sea and shore. A bauble ship, yet skill divine Fair fashioned it for me ; As air-bell light along the brine, It leaves no trace afar like thine ; Ah ! would thy noble barque, like mine, Could never fail at sea.' ' The appearance of the nautilus when floating on the surface of the water is very singular ; the most conspicuous part is an oval bladder inflated with air, which acts as the sail, and which can be hoisted at pleasure ; under their bodies they have numer ous wire-like appendages, which act as suckers to obtain their prey.

Sir Hans Sloane says, " That seamen do affirm they have great skill in sailing according to the different winds and courses." These creatures possess in a strong degree the sting ing quality, by reason of which they are termed by some, sea nettles ; they also have that luminous appearance so common amongst marine insects. At night the sea looked as if actually on fire with phosphoric light, produced from myriads of animalcula, insects and jelly fish, which, as they sparkled in the ripples, had a very pleasing effect, especially at the bow and wake of the vessel. The glare of light thrown up illuminated the sails some distance from the deck, and if there had been any fish about the brig, their track would have been perceived. A jelly fish was washed on board in the lee scuppers, and as the poor creature was kicked from one to the other, it threw off at eveiy blow numberless portions of pale blue light, resembling the light of glow-worms.

After the seamen had sufficiently amused themselves, they cast the ill used jelly fish into its native element. A few days after, we made Madeira. It appears that the Portuguese, though not the discoverers of this beautiful island, were the first to colonize and make it known to the world, and it has never been out of their possession. It is said to have been discovered by a young Englishman in the reign of Edward the Third, who embarked in a vessel bound for France, which was driven out of its course to an uninhabited island, afterwards called Madeira, where he passed the remainder ofhis days, as also did some of the crew ; the rest endeavoured to reach England in their frail barque, but perished in the attempt. Soon after our losing sight of Madeira the weather became delightful, the heat averaging about 78° Fah. and not at all oppressive ; our enjoyment would have been very great, but unfortunately the wind was so light as scarcely to move our vessel through the water.

Here we had leisure to hear the old mariner, who foretold the storm, sing " John Anderson my Jo," and relate strange stories of peril and enterprise in which he had been engaged, and of the immortal Nelson, and a host of others, in whose deeds he had borne a share. This was con sidered an excellent opportunity to try the following experi ment : — a wine bottle was selected, a good cork driven into the neck, and well secured with string, sealed and coated some distance down the neck; the bottle was attached to a deep sea lead, 281bs. weight, to which was fastened a sounding line of 140 fathoms, and lowered into the sea from our boat ; but allowing for the drift, the bottle could not have been more at any time than 120 fathoms from the surface of the water. In ten minutes from the time the last fathom was let out, we commenced hauling in, and found the bottle full of salt water, the end of the cork with my initials was in the neck of the bottle, and the unwaxed end thrust outside.

As we proceeded, our vessel was surrounded with numerous dolphins, bonetas, flying-fish and squid, as also several aquatic birds. Lines of all sorts were thrown out, baited with a variety of articles, such as pieces of salt pork, linen rag, &c. The first caught was a dolphin, he having gorged a hook to wliich was attached a piece of pork; the splendid colours of this fish when in its native element are remarkable ; all the most beautiful hues are mingled together, bright yellow and blue preponderating. On its being drawn in, its superb colours faded at every throe, till at length, when quite dead, it exhibited nothing but a dull white and dingy brown. Many dolphins were caught soon after, as the fins of the first were used as bait, and made to look like flying fish. Dolphins are eaten, and much relished by some ; it is said, they are of a poisonous nature, and that sometimes dangerous consequences have ensued from the indiscriminate use of fish caught at sea.

Off places, such as Cuba, where there are copper banks, precautions ought to be used. When a fish is caught near copper banks, the seamen boil it, and put in the saucepan a piece of silver, and if, when the fish is boiled, the silver be not discoloured, they pronounce it good ; believing, that if the fish were poisonous, the silver would become black. An eminent Jamaica doctor recommended, if the slightest doubt exists of the goodness of a fish, not to trust to the popular fallacy of putting in silver when boiling, but to taste the heart ; for if sweet it may be eaten, if bitter it is unquestionably poisonous. The trade wind increasing, all sails were set alow and aloft, and there was nothing to be seen but the wide expanse, and hundreds of Portuguese men-of-war, hoisting their little sails to catch the favourable breeze : — The tender Nautilus who steers his prow, The sea-born sailor of the shell canoe, The ocean Mah, the fairy of the sea, He, when the lightning-winged tornadoes sweep The surge, is safe, his port is in the deep.

BYRON Numbers of porpoises appeared proceeding in one strait course, amusing themselves by leaping out of the water, exact in their evolutions, as if actuated by one mind. We then fell in with the gulf weed, which was hailed with pleasure, in the hope that our voyage would soon be ended ; and whilst occupied in admiring its infinite variety, the cry was raised, " A shark ! a shark !" A Une and hook being ready, a piece of pork was attached to it, and thrown overboard, but the shark refused the delicious bonne bouche, nor deigned even to approach it. Great was the disappointment when the creature's fins were no longer visible, for all sailors have the most intense hatred to these monsters of the deep ; and, although our crew were natives of various climes, all joined in eagerness to destroy it, their abhorrence being plainly visible ; and loud curses were vented, when they found the bait wholly disregarded.

This visit led to many stories of the rapacity of the sharks ; they sometimes follow in the wake of a vessel, or lie unperceived at its bottom, so that when any poor fellow, either by accident or design, is in the water, it is ready to seize its prey. According to many authorities, these creatures are most voracious within the tropics. Portlock says, that the sharks in the South Sea Islands never offer to touch the Indians ; he has seen several swimming amongst one or two hundred natives, the fish appearing quite indifferent, and yet at the same time would greedily swallow any bait thrown out. We next passed the islands of Guadaloupe, Montserrat and Antigua, and most enchantingly they looked ; the setting sun illumining the horizon with great splendour, shedding gorgeous hues on various parts of the islands.

The delicious warmth and beauty of the scene rivetted the attention, and the charm was only broken by the important black steward announcing tea, suddenly calling us from flights of fancy to dull reality ; and we soon heard Massa Snowball, on being summoned so often, sing out with his tiny trumpet voice, " Cuss dat bell, top him infernal clapper !" In the morning we observed a Danish man-of-war brig cruising about, apparently well manned and handled ; she made sail after us ; on hoisting our colours, she braced her yards round in chase of a vessel that just appeared above the horizon. Towards evening the brig was surrounded with schools of porpoises, driving out of the water the interesting flying fish, which escaped one danger only to fall in with another, for numerous birds were in readiness to dart on them the moment they appeared above its surface.

The weather now became unsettled, and very hot, 86° in the shade ; three or four squalls a day, with torrents of rain and heavy thunder and lightning. Our small cabin was now oppressive, and would have been much more so, had we not used chloride of lime to sweeten it, which we found of service in the preservation of health. Here, about three p. m., we saw a water spout some distance astern, which, when it broke, raised a commotion in the water which would have engulphed all that came within its influence, and a constant succession of heavy squalls soon after took place. By the advice of the captain we provided ourselves with blanket frocks and trowsers, their benefit soon being appre ciated. I do not know anything more conducive to the health of Europeans in a tropical climate than the liberal use of flannel ; though to recommend such things as blankets for trowsers may appear strange, in a climate where the thermometer stands at 80° and upwards.

I have heard that it is the custom on the coast of Africa, (where it is much warmer than in Central America,) for the seamen of the British navy to be rigged in blanket frocks and trowsers at eight o'clock every night. The captain now discovered, by observation, that we had been driven much to the southward of our course. On taking soundings seventeen fathoms were found, which in less than two hours decreased to four ; this rather alarmed us, the charts on board differing so essentially ; but, on consulting the chart of Lieutenant Barnett, who had lately surveyed that part, the four fathom bank was plainly shewn. We presently heard the leadsman sing out, " By the mark ten," gradually increasing to twelve fathoms, shewing us to be near Sandy Bay, Mosquito Shore, and to the southward of Cape Gracias a Dios.

Towards night a great variety of things drifted by us from the northward, such as cocoa nuts, calabashes, large trees, logs of mahogany, limes, kc. so that at last we began to fancy our voyage at an end, and passed the night in pleasing anticipa tions of terra firma. In the morning we had a spanking breeze in our favour ; about two P. M. the man at the mast head called out loudly, " Breakers ahead!" Immediately all was confusion, the brig was put about, fortunately without missing stays ; another ten minutes, and nothing could have saved her from destruction. As it was, however, we had the pleasure of looking from the taffrail at threatening breakers, leaping, foaming and lashing in the distance, to the great satisfaction of the Johnny New comes. In a few hours another seaman called from the foretop, " Rocks right ahead !"

The brig was again put about with alacrity, seemingly, however, surrounded with kays and reefs. The night coming on, and the current drifting us rapidly to the southward, the captain brought up in twelve fathoms. We congratulated the captain and ourselves on having escaped by his prudence, for in the morning reefs and kays were to leeward, and within a few miles of us. We then weighed anchor, and in the morning made land, our appearance being greeted by a heavy squall of wind and rain.

Chapter II

Appearance of the Country — First sight of tbe Natives— Cape Residents —Columbians — The King's Token — Landing on the Embarcadero — Walk along an Indian Pass — Cape Gracias a Dios — The Bay — Climate — Savanna — Breeding Cattle — Trade — Cayman's Schooners — Green Turtle, Price of —Loggerhead Turtle — Trunk Turtle — San Pio— Productions of the Natives — Horned Cattle — Horses — Mode of Tamning — Ticks — Bats — Guana — Fowls —Pigs— Fish— Hauling Seine — Striking Fish — Striking Staffs — Snakes— Mode of curing their Bites — The Woulah — Mosquitos— Sand Flies — Chegoes— Ants— Population of the Cape. The next day, about one p. m., we anchored off Cape Gracias a Dios, in four and a half fathoms. The countiy appeared low and covered with vegetation of a rich dark green colour down to the sea beach, from which we were distant about three miles.

A boat was hoisted out, and on our way to the shore, we met a strange looking native boat, called a dorey,* in which * A Dorey is cut out of the trunk of a tree, generally mahogany or cedar. They are sometimes thirty feet and upwards in length, four, five and six feet in breadth, and four and five feet in depth. The Indians of the interior hollow them out roughly, and sell them to the Indians of the coast, who trim them well, and widen them, either by sinking them in the rivers, or filling them with water ; after they have remained a sufficient time, they are easily stretched and the width preserved, by nailing in timbers or knees along each side of tbe dorey. were three tall and powerful looking Indians, naked, with the exception of toumous, (made from the inner bark of the ule or caoutchouc tree) tied round their loins, hanging down before and behind.

One of them sung out, in pretty good English, " How do? me glad see you — long time you no come!" to which one of our men who had been in the country before, and who knew the Indians, replied, " Tokoy, plenty English come live with you, bring plenty every thing, too much ;" on hearing which they testified the most lively satisfaction, not, however, forgetting to ask for grog. By this time another dorey, which had displayed a small flag, came alongside, two white men being seated in the stem, one a gentleman, who had resided at the Cape as a merchant for many years, and for whom some of our party had letters. He and his companion returned with us to the brig, at the same time presenting us with some ripe bananas, pine apples, and sugar-cane, which were speedily demolished. We learned from them that it had been reported the Columbians had threatened to attack the Cape, and that the residents were totally unprepared for such a visit, having no arms or ammunition, though they expected that some would shortly arrive from Balize.

A fort had been commenced on the Embarcadero,* close by the entrance of the Bay of Cape Gracias a Dios, and near the north channel, so as to sweep any vessel that might arrive. They had, however, only one long brass gun, a nine pounder, and a small carronade. The only materials for building the fort were wood, sand, and a little copper dross, which had been thrown out of the hold of the Rose on a former voyage. The work was progressing under the directions of an Englishman residing at the Cape, assisted by numerous Mosquito men, each contributing one, two, or three days' work, according to the king's order, which is expressed by one of his tokens, * An Embarcadero is a place to which tbe mahogany logs are brought from the rivers aud Ihe various creeks where the trees are fallen, to be beaten oil' and squared ready for shipment. either a silver medal, formerly presented to his deceased brother George Frederic by the English, or a gold-headed stick, a sword, or something known to belong to the king.

These tokens the natives never disavowed. Much pleasure was manifested at our arrival, as we had long been anxiously looked for, and although most of our small party were going to Black River, the natives of the Cape were inspired with the idea that they were not forgotten, as they had feared they had been by their friends the English. Towards night our newly acquired friends returned to their homes, and the next morning we landed near the affair called a fort, being satisfied that we should not be molested, from the known friend ship these people have towards the English. The whole face of the country appeared covered with bush of the most varied character, interspersed with tall and graceful cocoa-nut trees, and mangrove bushes, which skirted the bay, spreading their branches some distance over the water.

On landing, we entered a narrow pass, and were obliged to proceed in Indian file, our view being circumscribed by the bush on each side. While traversing along, a most delicious fragrance greeted our senses, and seemed like enchantment ; we found it to proceed from some lime trees in full bearing ; we plucked the grateful fruit, and inhaled its odour with new life and bright hopes, handsome plants meeting our gaze at every turn, and the air was so impregnated with sweetness, that our delight could not be exceeded. At length we arrived at some clearings, on which were huts built by the natives in a very primitive manner, posts being driven into the ground, secured together, roofed and thatched, almost perpendicularly, to within five or six feet from the surface, so that all round their huts to that height was perfectly open.

The thatch in use among the natives is the cahoon leaf, swallow-tail, papter, wild cane, and two or three other sorts. Our approach was greeted by the loud barkings of many lean and hungry dogs, and we were obliged to use our sticks with vigour to keep them from biting our heels. Several Indians were luxuriously swinging in their hammocks made from the bark of a tree called maho, while others were squatting down by a wood-fire, smoking their short pipes. Now and then one would cry out, " Ouple tapla ourike," (Friend, give me grog.) Many women and children were attending some large iron pots, boiling the root of the cassada, and fish, and roasting plantains ; they seemed to regard us with wonder and surprise. Numberless pigs were running about in all directions. After passing other Indian habitations, much better arranged and built than the first we had seen, we came to the English locality, highly gratified with our interesting walk from the embarcadero, about two miles and a half, and were received by the gentleman I have before named, Mr. H , and heartily welcomed.