A Voyage round the Coasts of Scotland and the Isles

Front matter

JBpitfzspiece Voll. J|mU|^OF RACHEh'lN. A VOYAGE ROUND THE, COASTS OF SCOTLAND AND THE ISLES. BY JAMES WILSON, F.E.S.E., M.W.S., &e. VOL. I. EDINBURGH: ADAM AND CHARLES BLACK, NORTH BRIDGE. MDCCCXLII. EDINBURGH : PRINTED BY T. CONSTABLE. PRINTER TO HER MAJESTY. TO SIR THOMAS DICK LAUDER, BARONET, OF FOUNTAINHALL, THIS RECORD OF A VOYAGE, UNDERTAKEN AT HIS SUGGESTION, AND WITH THE ADVANTAGE OF HIS COMPANIONSHIP, IS INSCRIBED BY HIS SINCERE AND FAITHFUL FRIEND, THE AUTHOR. PREFATORY NOTE. Having been requested by the Honour able the Commissioners of the Board of Fisheries to accompany their Secretary throughout the course of his voyage of in spection in the summer of 1841, for the purpose of making certain investigations into the natural history of the herring, I have been since induced, not so much by the " solicitation of friends" as the more weighty arguments of my respected Publishers, to endeavour to impart to others a portion of the interest which that voyage excited in my own mind.

The object of the Secre- PREFATORY NOTE. VI tary on this occasion was to acquire a general knowledge of the whole coasts of Scot land, especially of the districts near which fisheries had been or might with advantage be established, and to make himself acquainted with the character and position of the various harbours erected by the Board. We had therefore occasion to visit many localities not within the range of the ordinary tourist, as well as to explore those numerous isles and picturesque inlets for which our western shores especially are so remarkable, — and if there is either truth or intelligence in the following Journal of Observations, it may possibly tend both to instruct those who have not yet examined the coast scenery of their native country, and to recall agreeable remembrances to such as have enjoyed that pleasure.

I have endeavoured to dwell chiefly on whatever matters may be regarded as of general interest, — the special objects of our more professional enquiries being discussed PREFATORY NOTE. VII in separate reports, which Sir Thomas Dick Lauder and myself have already had the satisfaction to lay before the Honourable Commissioners. My best thanks are due to the gentle man just named not only for the use of his Sketch-Books, from which the illustrations of the present volumes have been mostly drawn, but also for access to his Journal. By consulting the latter my own impres sions have been strengthened and refreshed, and my chief regret now is that one so much more able than myself to do justice to the subject, both with pen and pencil, should have been prevented by other and more important avocations from undertak ing the task.

Chapter I

Page REMINISCENCE OF FORMER TIMES — THE RIVER CLYDE — EMBARKATION AT GREENOCK — THE FIRTH OF CLYDE — BUTE — ARRAN — CAMPBELTO WN — THE AYR- SHIRE COAST — DUNURE CASTLE — LOCH RYAN — CUL- HORN — CASTLE KENNEDY — DUNSKEY — BALLANTRAE, 1-61

Chapter II. Mull Of Cantyre

— IRISH COAST — ISLAND OF RACHLIN — GIANTS' CAUSEWAY — ISLAND OF ISLAY — SOUND OF ISLAY — JURA — COLONSAY — ORONSAY— THE SKERRY VORE — TIREE — THE TREISHNISH, AND OTHER ISLES —STAFFA, 62-128

Chapter III. Ruins Of Iona

— SOUTHERN SHORES OF MULL — ISLAND AND SOUND OF KERRERA — BAY OF OBAN — DUNOLLY CASTLE — CONNEL FERRY' — OPENING OF LOCH ETIYE — CASTLE OF DUNSTAFFNAGE — OPENING OF THE SOUND OF MULL — THE LADY'S ROCK — DUART CASTLE — ARD- TORNISH CASTLE — CASTLE CHONE — AROS CASTLE — BAY OF TOBERMORY — SCENERY OF LOCH SUNART — LOCH MOIDART — CASTLE TYRIM — THE RIVER SHIEL— LOCH SHIEL — GLENFINNAN — KINTRA BAY, 129-200 X CONTENTS.

Chapter IV

Page ISLAND OF EIG— MUICK— RUM— CANNA — COMPASS HILL — SOUTHERN COAST OF SKYE — MACLEOD'S MAIDENS — LOCH BRACADALE — I.OCH SLEPIN — STRATHAIRD'S CAVE — LOCH SCAVA1G — LOCH CORRUISKEN AND THE CUILLEN MOUNTAINS — RETURN TO EIG — THE BONE CAVE — THE MAINLAND — LOCH-NA-NUAGH AND PRINCE CHARLES EDWARD — PORT EILLAN-ORONSAT — LOCH HOURN — LOCH NEVISH — GLENELG — KTLE-RHEA — LOCHALSH — EILLAN-DONAN CASTLE — LOCH LING AND LOCH DUICH — CASTLE MOIL AND KTLE-AKIN — LOCH CARRON — RAASAY — LOCH ATNORT — SCALPA SOUND — PORTREE — PRINCE CHARLES'S CAVE — CASTLE BRO- CHEL, 201-28IJ

Chapter V. Loch

SHIELDAG— THE APPLECROSS DISTRICT — LOCH TORRIDON — THE GAIRLOCH COUNTRY — THE GAIR- LOCH ITSELF — FLOWERDALE — LOCH EWE — POOL- EWE — THE RIVER EWE — LOCH MAREE — MOUTHS OF LOCH GREINORD AND LITTLE LOCH BROOM — LOCH BROOM — ULLAPOOL — VARIOUS ISLANDS — LOCH ENARD AND LOCH INVER — MOUNTAINS OF SUTHERLAND AS- SYNT — ITS NUMEROUS LOCHS — KYLE-SKU — ITS TROU- BLESOME NARROWS BELOW KYLE STROME — LOCH DHU AND LOCH CUL — THE COAST OF EDDERACHILLIS — SCOURIE BAY — ISLAND OF HANDA— LOCH LAXFORD — THE RIVER LAXFORD — LOCH STACK — FOREST OF DI- RIMORE— LORD REAY'S COUNTRY, . . . 287-354

Chapter VI. The Lewis

— STORNOWAY — LOCH SHELL — THE SHIANT ISLES — LOCH SEAFORTH — THE EASTERN SIDE OF HAR- RIS — THE NORTHERN COASTS OF SKYE — QUIRAING TRODDA — FLADDA-HUNA — RU-HUNISH — DUNTULM CASTLE — LOCH SNIZORT — VATERNISH POINT — DUN- VEGAN HEAD — LOCH FOLIART— DUNVEGAN CASTLE, 355-440 CONTENTS. XI

Chapter VII

Page SOUND OF HARRIS — NORTH UIST — BENBECULA— SOUTH UIST — ERISKAY — SOUND OF FLODDAY — BARRA— CASTLE KISHMUL — LOCH TANGESTAL — VATERSAY — MULDONICH — SANDERAY — PABBAY — MINGALAY — BARRA HEAD, COASTING VOYAGE ROUND SCOTLAND.

Chapter I. Reminiscence Of Former Times

— THE RIVER CLYDE — EMBARKA- TION AT GREENOCK — THE FIRTH OF CLYDE — BUTE — ARRAN CAMPBELTOWN — THE AYRSHIRE COAST — DUNURE CASTLE — LOCH RYAN CULHORN — CASTLE KENNEDY — DUNSKEY — BALLANTRAE. It occurred to me in early life to visit the sandy and scarcely perceptible shores of Holland, where the sole sights which meet the eye of the approaching mariner are the outstretched arms of windmills, and the heavenward-pointing spires of churches. I had also seen the Nase of Norway looming through the Scandinavian mists ; and en tering the Cattegat, and passing through the Sound, I visited the green shores of Zealand, and VOL. I. A EARLY REMINISCENCES. the adjacent Danish isles. I had skirted the coasts of Scania, the most southern of the Swedish provinces, and explored the Holstein shores — both those which open towards the Great Belt, and such as are river-bounded by the flowing Elbe.

At an after period I had crossed the Bay of Biscay, and trending southwards from Gallicia to the Algarves, experienced the refreshing influence of the landward breezes, when tempered and pervaded by the almost aromatic odour of the pine forests of Portugal. I had witne'ssed the glories of sunrise off the memorable Cape St. Vincent, had passed over the now stainless waters of Trafalgar, and after entering the Straits, beheld the great luminary sinking behind the embattled heights of Gibraltar — that vast rock which, alas ! still casts its far morning shadows over a blood-stained land. I had gazed with wonder on the cloud-surmount ing summits of the Sierra Nevada, those " Earthquake-rifted mountains of bright snow," which in summer refresh the sultry plains of Granada by the partial melting of their spotless mantle.

I had passed the Balearic Isles, and along the eastern coasts of Spain, from Cape de EARLY REMINISCENCES. 3 Gaeta to the Bay of Eosas, and crossing the Gulf of Lyons, entered the harbour of Genoa, and then coursed along the Tuscan and other shores of the **' Satumia Tellus." But in these and other wanderings, both by sea and land, I had in a great measure, as many more have done, neglected what was nearer home — the coasts of Scotland and her almost countless isles, from the " Greater and Lesser Cumbrays" to the far Unst, the most northern portion of the British kingdom. Particular points of these I had indeed visited at intervals in the course of my angling, or other peregrinations ; but I had never gazed on them with that insatiate eye which is so often cast on foreign lands, nor even more deliberately viewed them as objects of any special interest.

A recent long-continued voyage in the Princess Royal fishery-cutter, during which I enjoyed peculiar advantages for the observation of a great portion of the Scottish coasts, enabled me to see the subject in another light, and my wonder grew from day to day that I had journeyed in my youth to foreign lands in search of the magnificent and picturesque, while such a boundless variety of almost unexam pled beauty lay so close at hand. To give a slight DEPARTURE FROM EDINBURGH. account of this voyage is the object of the present work. Nothing need here be said of a pleasant party who left the Modern Athens for Glasgow (on the 16th of June), although the day has almost come when a leisurely trip, with time to look about one, and take cognisance of hedge-rows and hay-stacks, will never more be known between the shores of Forth and Clyde,— but railway trains will start like Congreve rockets, and whiz the unsuspecting passengers to what is encouragingly called a ter minus, with little intermediate knowledge of those great abstractions — time and space.

The day was remarkable for this, among other things, that rain began to fall in and around Edinburgh, after a six weeks continuance of perfectly dry and dropless weather. Although, for ourselves, we feared the subsequent prevalence of too much moisture, we yet rejoiced with the rejoicing farmer, and enjoyed the freshened green of the reviving meadows, and the rapid darkening of the sun-burned soil. Regarding the great Capital of the West of Scotland, we shall merely repeat the words of her own civic motto — " Let Glasgow flourish." We were casually informed that a great revolution has THE RIVER CLYDE. 5 taken place of late years in the " drinking usages" of that vast emporium — punch being an article now almost unknown. There is nothing permanent on earth. Neither need any thing be said of the merely river portion of the Clyde, — of its muddy waters, pent within stone-built banks or slushy margins, and beat unceasingly by paddle-turning steamers of every form and size, from the low pe nurious-looking dingy tugs, to those monarchs of the main, which containing the strength of 500 horses within their fiery lungs, thunder along the foaming surface of the briny deep, like huge levia thians unto "the manner born."

As anglers, how ever, we could not help feeling and lamenting how the sensations of a new-run salmon "all scaled silver bright," and fresh from the sparkling and pellucid sea, must be offended while it passes through such an unhappy medium as presents itself between Dumbarton and the Broomielaw, and onwards still through yet more turbid courses, before it gains the upland waters of the sylvan Clyde. How re joicingly will it then plunge and spring among those surging pools which stream for ever with the downward flow of mighty falls, cleaving " the m wave-worn precipice. EMBARKATION AT GREENOCK GREENOCK. On the afternoon of the 1 7th of June we em barked from Greenock on board the Princess Royal (Captain Stewart), a beautiful new cutter of 103 tons, built by Government (and Mr. Steele) for the fishery service.* Though anchored at some * To Captain Stewart, of the Princess Royal, our grateful thanks are due for his obliging disposition, and unfailing attention to our personal comforts.

His high character in matters relating to his own calling would gain no support from our un professional testimony, but we are desirous to record that durin» a voyage of nearly three months continuance, and performed under a great variety of external circumstances, the internal arrangements of the cutter were constantly conducted in the THE PRINCESS ROYAL. distance off the shore, we had descried her from afar by her long streaming pennon, by which, as a Queen's cutter, she was distinguished from those of meaner birth. We were, indeed, well pleased to exchange the noise and tumult of a Glasgow steamer, with its perpetual throbbing pulse and frequent boisterous breathing, for the tranquil order, comparatively roomy space, and cleanly keeping of the Princess Royal. This projected voyage was her first, and we could not help admi ring (a novel sight, of course, to landsmen,) how completely all things had been thought of and pro vided for ; and how, when for the first time her anchor was upheaved, her sails set, her sheets be layed, and all her bravery on — " She walked the waters like a thing of life."

Although she seemed to answer her helm beautifully, the slight airs most satisfactory and accommodating manner. Much of what may be called the domestic pleasure and convenience of such a voyage necessarily depends upon the Captain, and in these re spects none could be more fortunate than we. Our best acknow ledgments are also due to Mr. M'Alister, the mate, aud indeed to the entire crew, for their uniform good conduct and activity, in relation to their own duties, and their civility and attention to ourselves. THE FIRTH OF CLYDE. with which we were at first favoured speedily died away, till the sea assumed an almost glassy calm ness ; and, although we overtook numerous vessels, and indeed beat every moving thing (except the sea fowl) which we had had within our range of sight at starting, no proper opportunity occurred of ascertaining by comparison her rate of sailing.

Mr. Kerrs beautiful little yacht, the Falcon, was lying alongside when we weighed anchor. She is said to fly almost like the bird whose name she bears ; but, even had it suited her owner to accom pany us upon a trial cruise, her great disparity of size (27 ton) would have prevented our drawing any fair or positive conclusion. Slipping slowly downwards in the evening twi light, we rather felt than saw the solemn beauty of the scene around us. But although minuter features were obscured or hidden, we could still discern in the distance the vast amphitheatre of the Argyllshire and other mountains, and the various majestic gorges which, opening upwards, ad mit the " great sea-waters" to wind their way into many a far solitude among those Highland vales. The beautiful Gair-Loch, with its ducal palace embowered amid ancestral trees, — Loch THE FIRTH OF CLYDE. 9 Long, the deep-indented, darkening as it ascends beneath the frowning shadows of the eternal hills, and at length almost mingling its briny flood with the sweet waters of Loch Lomond, — the Holy Loch, a solemn place, alike by name and nature, where noble dust lies now unconscious of meaner clay, — these magnificent scenes which we had so often before gazed on amid the splendour of many a cloudless noon, we now beheld in sombre majes ty, by " dim suffusion veiled."

Our intention being to anchor for the night in Rothesay Bay, we took the usual course south wards. Dunoon, itself a long extended and still extending village, and the fair white walls of those numerous summer dwellings which stretch along the Cowal shore, were visible in spite of the in creasing darkness, while, on the opposite side, a long columnar line of sparkling light was thrown upon the surface of the quiet waters. Some one deemed that this effect was one of moonlight, but it was afterwards ascertained to proceed from a light-house, for two reasons : 1st, there was no moon (and this might suffice) ; 2dly, we were op posite the Cloch. But the mistake put us on our guard respecting any corresponding hallucination CABIn'd, CRIBb'd, CONFINED. on the part 'of Toward Point, where there is also a light, but one which, revolving much more ra pidly than the moon, is easily distinguished from that luminary.

We were at this time quite be calmed, and retiring ere long to our respective places of repose, became soon unconscious of the external world, till we heard the harsh rattling of the chain cable as the anchor was dropt in Rothe say Bay, in Bute, between three and four in the morning.* * The term Bute is said to be derived from Ebudæ, the name by which our western isles in general were formerly denomi nated, — the more usual appellation of Hebrides being said to have taken its rise in a misprint for Hibudes, in an edition of Bede, published in Paris. The name of Rothesay is derived from the Gaelic Roth-suidhe — circular seat, or place where courts were held — these being usually assembled in ancient times on rounded artificial mounds, called Laws, or motes. The island consists of two parishes, — Rothesay the northern, — Kingarth (Ceann Garbh, or stormy head,) the southern.

A liue drawn from the river mouth of Loch Quien to that of Loch Ascog, gives the divisional boundary. The population of the county of Bute (which includes Arran and other islands), according to the last census (1841), was 15,695. Though Bute itself was originally a Highland district, the Gaelic tongue is going rapidly into disuse, being scarcely understood at all by any of the younger people. ROTHESAY BAY. On going on deck at an early hour on the 18th, we looked around with pleasure on the old familiar face of things. The day, however, was dull and gloggy, with that warm, soft, dampish feeling, so frequent in Rothesay, and which differs as much from the livelier heat of direct sunshine as bouilli does from roast. The aspect of the weather pro mised rain, and faithfully performed it, for we had much sooner the beginning than the end of a lash ing and continuous shower.

This is a pleasant looking place, with a now widely extended semi circular range of houses stretching along almost the very margin of the shore, with, in the older portion of the town, some parallel streets higher up, and shorter ones intersecting and connecting these together, " By distance made more sweet." There are also various separate villas at intervals along the eastern shore, and stretching southwards opposite the Ayrshire coast, but these latter, as well as the more northern village of Port Banna tyne, are invisible from vessels anchored in the quiet bay. Rothesay has been much frequented for many seasons, both by invalids for the sake of ROTHESAY'. the general mildness of its climate, and by summer idlers, on account of its amenity of situation. It is also very centrally placed in relation to steam boat facilities, presenting almost hourly opportu nities to the lounger, of being borne away to one or other of the nearer or more distant Highland lochs, — either upward towards the Dumbarton por tion of the Firth of Clyde, or westward by the Kyles of Bute, a narrow-winding sea-way, which exhibiting in itself some of the most peculiar and picturesque scenes in Scotland, leads in the direc tion of the sublimer shores of Arran, or those more varied sylvan slopes which enclose and beautify the deep Loch Fine.

It may be predicted, that as our modern Athenians hope through the iron medium of the railway to draw towards their learned legal city some extraneous and commercial wealth, so will that same expeditious mode of tra vel induce our eastern people to perform their summer migrations westwards, to enjoy the balmy freshness of these sea-girt isles. Having transacted our fishery, and other business on shore, we would have weighed anchor for Campbeltown without delay, but therewas scarcely a breath of air to fill the tiniest sail, and we were BUTE FISHERIES. unable to leave the bay. We learned that no fish ing of any consequence had as yet been carried on hereabouts this season, and we ourselves ate to breakfast all the herrings (not quite a dozen) which appeared in the market in the morning. There were several vessels in the harbour laden with salt, and above 300 barrels of that essential article were lying ready for shipment on the quays.

We had an opportunity of seeing Morton's patent slip in operation, and it seemed to work admirably. The fisheries, especially of the southern parts of Bute, are chiefly those of whiting, haddock, and cod ; and of recent years a salmon fishing has been established around the general shores, which gives promise of advantage. Soles are not unfrequent, and sethe are abundant. The herring fishery is carried on chiefly in the Kyles, and the adjacent Argyllshire lochs (Striven and Ridon) which de bouche from the northwards. The cooperages of Rothesay turn out about 15,000 herring barrels yearly, which are valued at i?3000. Cockles are abundant in St. Ninian's Bay. It is the opinion of the clergyman (Rev. Robert Craig,) that if the fishermen of Bute were a little more active and enterprising, these island shores might in many ROTHESAY CASTLE. respects be rendered more productive.

In regard to fresh water fishes, there are plenty of pike and perch in Lochs Fad and Ascog, and good trout may be caught in Loch Greenan. On the antiquities of Bute we cannot here dilate. We had almost said they were well known, but we qualify the expression when we perceive that a well instructed antiquary, in describing Rothesay Castle, says, "it is supposed to have been first built about the year 1100, as a frontier fortress against the Norwegian power in the western islands;"* while the minister of the parish tells us that it " was probably one of those erected by Magnus Barefoot, king of Norway, in 1098, to secure his conquest of the western islands of Scot land." -f- Certain it is, however, that the said royal Castle is still a noble and imposing pile, " majestic though in ruins," consisting of a huge circular wall, surrounding an open court of nearly 140 feet in diameter, and containing within it four round towers, between two of which exteriorly and on the north-east side, there is a square build- Picture of Scotland, (p. 483) by Robert Chambers. t New Statistical Account of Scotland, No. xxvii., p. 101.

ROTHESAY CASTLE. ing, 72 feet in length by 33 in breadth, with a height of three stories, and a range of subterranean vaults beneath. We regretted to find that the magnificent thorn tree, which (in the long absence of kings and barons) had for unknown years adorned the interior court, had fallen to the ground, and was rearing one half of its old fantastic roots on high. However the other half seemed to answer the purposes of vegetation well enough, for the tree was in full leaf. Parts of the outer walls and buildings are covered by luxuriant ivy, and so on both sides " ruin greenly dwells." These old castles, with their leafy screens and sombre shadows, are certainly pleasant places of repose during the dry and burning dog-days (when such occur), and one may then revert to scenes of joy and revelry enacted in them in the olden time; but in dark and dripping weather, — with the stones beneath our feet so black and slimy, the grass so long and rank, the surrounding walls so redolent of an almost church-yard odour, — our associations undergo a corresponding change.

When we for merly visited these ruins, the sun was bright in heaven, and the sweet voices of glad children sounded in our ears more cheerily than the sky- DUKEDOM OF ROTHESAY. lark's son«- ; but now the same scene wore an air of melancholy desolation — " And fears and fancies thick upon us came, Dim sadness, and blind thoughts, we knew not, nor could name." Even our historical recollections led us to think not of tournaying knights, and the proud embla zonry of ancient chivalry, but only of one hoary headed monarch, broken down by grief and age. In this Castle Robert III. secluded himself to mourn over the cruel murder of his eldest son, the Duke of Rothesay, and the detention in England of the younger ; and here, in a small and narrow chamber, he expired.* * The creations of the Dukedoms of Rothesay and Albany, in favour of the son and brother of King Robert III., were the earliest examples of the ducal rank in Scotland.

The innovation continued to be viewed with distrust in our ancient kingdom even down to a comparatively late period. The title had indeed, as Sir Walter Scott observes, been " in almost every case united with heavy misfortunes — not rarely with tragic crimes." The national hopes are now high regarding our present " Duke of Rothesay," for that is a title still borne by every male heir-apparent of the British throne. May he be preserved to lead a lon" and happy life of honour and virtue. The following was the fate of the first Duke of Rothesay : — " The Duk of Albany " fa ST. BLANE's CHAPEL. 17 Again the grating of the cable was heard, as our anchor was upheaved soon after two in the morning of the 19th. We were not so restless as to look much about us at this early hour, for sleep, " It is a gentle thing, beloved from pole to pole ;" so we passed southwards between the Kingarth division of Bute and the Cumbrays, without any very precise inspection of either coast.

We know, however, that inwards from Kilchattan Bay, and towards the centre of the narrower portion of the parish, stand the interesting ruins of the Chapel of St. Blane, said to have been founded near the considerate uncle) " tuk the Duk of Rothesay betwix Dunde and Sanct Androis, and brocht him to Falkland, and inclusit him in the tour thairof, but ony meit or drink. It is said ane wo man, havand commiseratioun on this Duk, leit meill fall douu throw the loftis of the toure : bequhilkis his life wes certane dayis savit. This woman, fra it wes knawin, wes put to deith. On the same maner, ane other woman gaif him milk of her paup, throw ane lang reid ; and wes slane with gret cruelte, fra it wes knawin. Than wes the Duk destitute of all mortall sup plie; and brocht finalie to sa miserable and hungry appetite, that he eit nocht allenariie the filth of the toure quhare he wes, bot his awin fingaris : to his gret marterdome." — Boece's Croniklis.

VOL. I. v. ST. blane's chapel. 18 close of the tenth century. They certainly exhi bit an aspect of great antiquity, and the level space on which they stand is itself artificially raised above the surrounding ground, and enclosed by a rude but massy wall 500 feet in circumfe rence. There is mason work beneath all this area at a depth of about two feet below ground, and in an adjoining grove there is a remarkable building, of unknown usage, consisting of a circular wall 9 feet thick, 10 feet high, and 30 feet in diameter, the interior filled up with rubbish. The masonry is rude, many of the individual stones are of im mense size, and the general style of workmanship indicates even a more ancient origin than that of the adjoining buildings. " The scene around," Mr. Buchanan has well observed, " is one of un common beauty.

Towards the north an amphi theatre of lofty grey rocks secures the seclusion of a spot with whose time-worn relics it so well harmonizes. On the right, the grove with its deep shade forms a grateful object for the eye to repose upon, while its mysterious associations carry the mind back to events and ages long past. Before us lifts up its dim form, all that remains of a pile, around which is gathered the depth of CUMBRAYS AND HOLY ISLAND. interest which its sacred use, its great antiquity, and its gracefulness, even in decay, are so well calculated to create;"* while to the south the heaving ocean and the distant shores recede in softened beauty. Although the sea around the Cumbrays yields a plentiful supply of fish of the ordinary market kind, the take of herrings has so much diminished there of late years, that that fishery has been almost entirely abandoned.

Leaving these Islands, and the southern point of Bute behind us, we took our course towards Arran, and had a good run, with a light wind, in the direction of Brodick Bay. But, alas ! for the far-famed majesty of that sub lime retreat — the sea and sky, the rocky shores, the woods, the lofty mountains, were all alike con cealed from mortal view. We soon after passed through Lamlash Bay, breakfasting there under the lee of Holy Island, a large mountain mass of an Arthur Seat like form. This " sacred isle" was inhabited in ancient days by a certain St. Molios, a disciple of St. Columba, who, deeming the discipline of Iona too lax and indulgent, re- * New Statistical Account, No. xxvii., p. 88. ■20 ARRAN tired hither for still greater seclusion, and was eventually the means of spreading the blessed influence of Christianity among the, till then, pagan inhabitants of Arran.

A cave or excavation in the red sandstone is still pointed out as his ascetic abode. A monastery, mentioned by Dean Munro, stood about a mile northwards, and the consecrated ground around it was used as a place of sepulture for some hundred years after the building was itself in ruins. It was, how ever, abandoned in consequence of the loss of a large funeral party from Arran, who were drowned by the upsetting of a boat during a violent squall. It took us a long time with so light a wind to make much way along these eastern and south ern shores of Arran. We had not previously formed any accurate notion of their great extent, and occasional fertility, and we greatly regretted the foggy condition of the atmosphere. From former experience we knew that had the sky been clear, we would have enjoyed some magnificent views, — that from the great height of the Alpine mountains, they would have continued to fill our wondering gaze throughout the live-long day; and that the sight of the rocky peaks of the far Goat- ARRAN.