Narrative of a Voyage round the World, performed in Her Majesty's Ship Sulphur, during the years 1836-42, including details of the naval operations in China from Dec. 1840 to Nov. 1841. (The regions of vegetation. By Richard Brinsley Hinds.)

Front matter

NARRATIVE OF A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD,^ PERFORMED IN HER MAJESTY'S SHIP SULPHUR, DURING THE YEARS 1S36— 1842, INCLUDING DETAILS OF THE NAVAL OPERATIONS IN CHINA, FROM DEC. 1840, TO NOV. 1841. •yublisjKti un&er tf)e Slut^otttji of t()c Sorbs ©ommfssioners of ti)t SllirattaltD. BY CAPTAIN SIR EDWARD BELCHER, R. N KNT., C.B., F.U.A.S., &C. COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1843. LONDON : PRINTED BY C. J. PALMER, SAVOY STREET, STRAND. i TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL OF HADDINGTON, FIRST LORD, COMMISSIONER FOR EXECUTING THE OFFICE OF LORD HIGH ADiMIRAL OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND, &C, &C, &C, THESE VOLUMES, CONTAINING THE NAEKATIVE OF A VOYAGE BOUND THE WOELD ARE, BY HIS LORDSHIP'S PERMISSION, INSCRIBED, WITH THE GREATEST RESPECT, BE HIS OBEDIENT SERVANT, E BELCHER.

Preface

. Voyages undertaken for the express purposes of Mari time Discovery have always been received with so much favour by the British public, and especially when made (as in the present instance) by British officers, and under the direction of the British Government, that the writer of the present Narrative of a Voyage Round the World confidently trusts he will not be denied that indulgence which has been uniformly accorded to those who have preceded him. He hopes for such indulgence the rather that, although the practical results of his labours have been necessarily less fertile of novelty, and therefore of popular interest, than those of his more distinguished predecessors, they have not been less arduous or onerous to the individuals engaged in them. In order that the scope and extent of the objects con templated and attained, in this Voyage Round the World, may be judged of, it may be well to precede the narrative by a brief outline of its contents. Her Majesty's ship Sulphur was commissioned in September, 1835, by Captain Beechey, and, accompanied

PREFACE.

. VI by her consort the Starling, Lieut. Commander Kellett, (|uitted England in the following December. Captain Beechey invalided at Valparaiso, and was succeeded by Acting Commander Kellett, who was again superseded by the author of the present narrative, who took the com mand at Panama, in February, 1837, having crossed the Isthmus of Darien for that purpose, and retained it till the conclusion of her protracted voyage. After some little delay in completing certain necessary operations, the two vessels proceeded northerly, touching at Realejo and Libertad in Central America, and reached San Bias in June, 1837, whence she sailed for the Sandwich Islands, which she reached the following month. Port Etches, in King William's Sound, in 60° 30' N. was the next destination of the Expedition. Point Riou and Port Mulgrave were chosen as base stations for determin ing tbe position of Mount St. Elias,and further settling the question of longitude between Cook and Vancouver.

The Sulphur then proceeded to Sitka or New Archangel, in Norfolk Sound, where the officers received very courteous treatment from Captain Koupreanotf, the Russian go vernor. She next visited Friendly Cove, in Nootka Sound, and thence sailed to San Francisco, when the examination of the river Sacramento, one hundred and fifty-six miles from her anchorage, occupied the party in open boats for thirty-one days. Thence the Sulphur successively visited Monterey, San Bias, Acapulco, and Libertad, on her way to Realejo, where the author, for the recovery of his health, undertook a land survey of the principal mountains overlooking his future ground in the

PREFACE.

. VII Gulf of Papagayo, and fixed the principal features of the Lake of Managua, to its fall into that of Nicaragua at Tepi tapa. After surveying the Gulf of Papagayo and Port Culebra, the Sulphur quitted Central America, touched at, and fixed Cocos Island, and reached Callao in June, 1838, for the purpose of refit, and the completion of stores and provisions. Having examined the coast between Cerro Azul and Callao, (about sixty miles,) she left Callao in August, calling at Paita and Guayaquil, and returned to Panama in the following October. Here may be said to have ended her first cruize ; but between October and March a survey was made of the Gulfs of Fonseca and Nicoya, Pueblo Nueva, and Baia Honda, after which the ship moved northerly, repeating her cruize of 1837. She was detained at the Columbia River till September ; Bodega, the Russian position near San Francisco, was then surveyed, and subsequently San Francisco, Monterey, Santa Barbara, San Pedro, San Juan, San Diego, San Quentin, San Bartolome, the Gulf of Magdalena, and Cape San Lucas.

The Sulphur then proceeded to San Bias and Mazatlan, where orders for a westerly return awaited her. Having shipped sup plies for fourteen months from a transport which had been sent to meet her, she commenced her homeward voyage in January, 1840 ; en route the author landed on the islands of Socorro and Clarion, and secured their posi tions. She reached the Marquesas the same month, and after a short visit to Port Anna Maria, Nuhuhiva, moved on to Bow Island, where the operation was performed of boring for the volcanic foundation on which these coral TREFACE. islands are suspected to stand. She then visited Tahiti, Huaheine, Raratonga, Vavao, (Tonga group,) Nukulau, (Feejees,) Tanna, (New Hebrides,) Port Carteret, (New Ireland,) Britannia Island, New Guinea, coasting that island to Arimoa and as far as Jobie, where she remained to rate and survey ; then to Amsterdam, Pigeon Island, (Dampier's Straits,) Bouro and Amboina, moving thence to Macassar, Great Solombo, and Pulo Kumpal, off the Borneo coast; and reached Singapore in October of the same year.

Orders here awaited her to proceed instantly to China, where she was detained, and took an active part in the operations against the Chinese, till nearly the close of the year 1841, when she sailed for England. After leaving Singapore, and touching at Malacca, Penang, Acheen, Sumatra, Point de Galle, (Ceylon,) Sechelles, ?Æ adagascar, Cape of Good Hope, St. Helena, and As cension, she at last returned to Spithead. The account of the voyage has been carefully drawn up from the author's own memoranda, made when the places and incidents they describe were under his observation, and the illustrations are faithfully given from existing scenes and objects. In conclusion, the author desires to aknowledge his obligation to Mr. Hinds, the Surgeon to the Expedition, for his valuable and interesting* account of the vegetable regions, which will be found appended to the second volume of the narrative. E. B. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. Hydrographic Instructions Page xvii

Chapter I

Her Majesty's ship Sulphur quits England — Captain Beechey invalided — Is succeeded by Acting-Commander Kellett, who repairs to Panama to await instructions — Captain Belcher appointed to the command of the Expedition — Quits Falmouth in her Majesty's steamer Echo — Touches at Lisbon, and reaches Barbadoes and Jamaica — Is transferred to her Majesty's ship Forte, Commodore Pell, and thence to her Majesty's ship Madagascar, Commodore Sir J. Peyton — Is present at the blockade, &c, of Carthagena, and then embarks in her Majesty's ship Nimrod for Chagres — Passage up the river— Reaches Panama, and takes command of the Sulphur . Page 1

Chapter II

Assume the command of the Sulphur — Escort Consul's family to Chagres, and measure meridian distance by chronometers — Embark the ladies in her Majesty's ship Nimrod, and ie-measure distance to Gorgona — Another attempt with the rockets from Caraveli, unsuccessful ; Explosion bags from tree on Ato. Ormigero, CONTENTS. X successful— Measure distance to Panama— Power of Moteros in carrying burdens — Opinion on rocket measurement compared with chronometer — Present state of Panama — Move to Taboga — Leave Taboga — Visit Baia Honda — Magnetic Island (Pueblo Nueva)— Pass Gulf of Nicoya— Papagayo gusts- Arrive at Realejo — Obtain supplies — Port of Realejo — Quit Realejo by the Barra Falsa— Repair to Libertad — Visit San Sal vador — Return and hear of fatal accident to coxswain — Surf — Difficulty of getting to ship — Succeed, and quit Libertad — Touch at Mauzanilla (Port of Colima) — Reach San Bias — Visit Tepic — Quit San Bias for Sandwich Islands. . .19

Chapter III

Search for islands in the neighbourhood of Socorro— Clouds and Freshwater Island — Pass over position of Best's Island — Make Clarion's — Search for islands reported by Whalers between 130° and 13° W — Cross Blossom's track — Method of inserting track — Make Island of Maui — Singular cascades — Arrive at Oahu — Enter the port to refit— Question of forcible entry of "Clementine" — Appeal to the Government —Unsuccessful — Re-capture Clementine, and send her for the king — Missionary threat— Land the missionaries — Arrival of the French frigate Venus — Letter from the king — Arrival of the king's yacht — Royal reception — King consents to the missionaries remaining — Suspicions of foul play — Take leave of Venus, and quit Oahu — Arrival in the Bay of Atooi — Quit Hanalai — Present condition of Oahu — Views of the king — College at Maui — Starling despatched to Port Mulgrave— Touch at Rose Island — Arrive at Port Etches —Aurora observed —Visit the Russian settlement of Port Etches — Discover traces of Captain Portlock on Garden Island — Quit Port Etches — Extraordinary appearance of land near Cape Suckling — Anchor in Icy Bay, under Mount Elias — Point Riou not to be found — Icebergs Arrival at Port Mulgrave — Rejoin Starling— Lip ornament- Quit Port Mulgrave . . . . 4*7 CONTENTS. XI

Chapter IV

Norfolk Sound, Cape Edgecumbe — Sitka — Russian Governor Koupreanoff — Erect observatory — Establishment of Sitka — Small-pox among the Indians — Attention of the Governor — Entertainment to the natives — Probable cause of disagreements — Musical instruments — Slavery — Russian ball — Quit Sitka — Customary signals — Reach Woody Point — Anchor in Friendly Cove, Nootka — Arrival of Macquilla — Description of natives — Exhibition of magic-lanthorn and fireworks— A court fool — Sulkiness of Macquilla, on our refusal to trade — Description of natives — Quit Nootka, and proceed to San Francisco . 91

Chapter V

Changes since 1828 — Result of revolution — Delawares — Visit Santa Clara — Decay of the mission — Examine Sacramento — Meet Indian hunters — Reach Point Victoria — Commence survey of river — Short of provisions — Grotesque dresses of Indians — Decrease of population — Animals — Climate— Productions — Scenery of river— Scarcity of provisions — Rejoin Starling — Insecure state of the country — Renegadoes — Quit San Francisco — Anchor at Monterey — State of its defences — Quit Monterey — Pass Cape San Lucas — Touch at Tres Marias — Reach San Bias. . . . .115

Chapter VI

Official news of the accession of Queen Victoria — Arrival of Venus — Scurvy — Starling despatched to Panama for letters — Quit San Bias — Arrive at Acapulco — Entering by Boca Chica — Interview with the Governor — Erect observatory— Examine the port — Capacity — Best berth — Watering place — Present state of trade — Merchants deserting the city in consequence of custom-house regulations — Earthquakes from 1/32 to present date — Fort Sau Carlos not affected by them — Period of rainy CONTENTS. season — Distance from Mexico — Imports, exports, and general trade— Population and diseases — Military force — Execution of two murderers— Unsafe at night— Quit Acapulco — Touch at Guatulco, and fix position of Morro Ayuca— Cross Gulf of Tehuantepcc — Views of volcanic peaks — Call at Sonsonati and Libertad — Volcano of Isalco active — Anchor at Realejo. . 141

Chapter VII

Excursion to summit of Viejo Volcano — San Antonio — Mr. Bridge, its proprietor — Chinandega — Swarm of musquitoes — Moyotepita — Pine range — Viejo summit — Palm toddy — Return to San Antonio — Move on to Chichigalpa — Posoltega — City of Leon — Its Cathedral and College — Reach Piedra Gorda on the lake of Managua — Attempt to visit Momotombita relinquished — Stormy breezes — Reach Nagarote — Hospitality — Move on to Matiares — Productions — Cholera, &c. — Reported remains of causeway to Momotombita — Reach Managua — Brasil wood noticed — Sleep at Managua — Move on to Tepitapa — The falls — Sulphur springs — Return to Managua — Matiares — Nagarote — Leon and San Antonio — Rejoin Sulphur, and quit Realejo to examine Gulf of Papagayo — Bay of Salinas — Murciellagos islands examined — Return to Realejo — Arrival of Starling with letters — Quit Realejo — Search for and find Culebra — Survey it — Reach island of Cocos— Tedious passage — Pass through Gallapagos, and reach Callao . 159

Chapter VIII

Naval forces at Callao — Refit the Sulphur — Arrival of Admiral Ross — Periodical observations — Visit the coast below Callao Cerro Azul— Port and town of Chilca — Disturbances in Peru Arrival of the Chilians — Troops land at Ancon — Engagement near Lima — Chilian forces enter the city — Ladies witness the action — The Sulphur quits Callao — Visits the Hormigas, Payta, Guayaquil . . . . .195 CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter IX

Proceed to Guayaquil in gig — Ladies of Guayaquil — General Wright's excursion to Bodegas — General Flores — Batahoya, Bull fight — Alligators — Balsas, Canoa de pieca — Samborodon — Sulphur drops down the river — Harrier calls at Puna — Capture of an alligator — Handsome conduct of Government of Equador — Return to Panama — Visit Yslas del Rey — Witness pearl-diving operations — Arrival of despatches — Sail for Realejo — Reach Realejo ..... 209

Chapter X

Realejo — Termination of the rainy season — Quit Realejo and repair to Chicarene — Gulf of Fonseca — Trip to San Miguel — Agua Frio — Reach San Miguel — Start to visit the Volcano — Demur at Chinameca — Return in disgust to San Miguel — Quit, and visit Moncagua — Breakfast — Arrive at San Miguel — The fair — Method of transacting business — Honourable conduct of natives — Run to Realejo — Meet H. M. S. Imogene — Return to Conchagua — Port of San Carlos — Ascend Amapala — Conchagua, &c. — Pitch observatory under Conseguina — Start with Starling and boats to examine Estero Real — Result — Swarms of Mosquitoes — Canal question — Volcano of Conseguina — Desolation caused by its eruption — Return to Realejo— A boat upset in a squall — Mr. Speck and a seaman drowned — Sail for the Gulf of Nicoya . . . . . .225

Chapter XI

Survey of the Gulf of Nicoya — Its capabilities — Examine Bay of Honda — Quibo — Receive despatches at Panama — Future movements — Sail for the Sandwich Islands — Revisit Cocos Island — Examine Clipperton Rock — Anchor at Honolulu — Disposition of the king towards us — Funeral of Kinau, the CONTENTS. XIV King's aunt — The kins and suite visit the Sulphur—Mis sionary influence and operations — The islands less frequented — The Orphan School — Rapid decrease of the population — Exports and productions . . • . 2*4 7

Chapter XII

Quit Ilonululu— Touch at Atooi — Signs of improvement — Sail for the north — Great numbers of marine animals — Touch at Kodiack — Natives — Observations — Visit Sitka — Enter the Columbia River — Present state of Astoria — Ascend the river to Fort Vancouver — Jealousy of the Indians respecting their dead — The establishment at Fort Vancouver — Colonizing the Wallamette — Relations with America and Russia— Great size of the forest trees — The Hudson's Bay trading establishment — Wreck of a Japanese junk — The crew seized by the natives — Other similar occurrences — Character of the Indians who compress the head — Influence on the mind — Sail for California — Settlement of Ross — Bodega — Unsafe anchorage — San Francisco — Sailing directions for the port . . 279

Chapter XIII

Arrive at Monterey — Move on to St. Barbara — Kelp line St. Barbara — Move on to San Pedro — Starling despatched to San Buenaventura — San Pedro — Touch at San Juan — Starling despatched to examine St. Catalina — Anchor at San Diego Description of the port — Alarm from Indians — Defenceless state — Country wines made at San Luis Rey — Quit San Diego — Pass Cape Colnett and enter San Quentin, or Puerto de las Virgiues — Touch at San Bartolome — Enter and anchor in Gulf of Magdalena — Fossils — Esteros — Extent of Esteros Probable connexion with La Paz — Adapted for naval rendezvous — Cape San Lucas Productions — Reach San Bias Quit and anchor at Mazatlan — Return to San Bias . CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XIV

Quit San Bias — Island of Socorro — Goats — Does not afford water — Braithwaite's Bay — Clarion Island — Lose anchor — Botany — Fish — No water — Irish eagle shot — False alarm of breakers — Make the Marquesas — Enter port Anna Maria — Nuhuhiva — Transactions — War in Tabu — Interference to stop hostilities — Unsuccessful — Compact of safety to foreign residents — Signed by king and prime ministers — Quit Nuhuhiva . ILLUSTRATIONS TO THE FIRST VOLUME. MAPS. Map of the Author's route. Loose in Map, showing the track of ground searched. Map of Canton River. ' Pocket. ENGRAVINGS. City of Panama, from Caledonia Hill. . (Frontispiece.) City of Panama from the sea . . . Page 23 Port of Honululu, Island of Oahu, Sandwich Islands . 60 Mount St. Elias . .... 78 View of the Arsenal and Lighthouse, Sitka, New Archangel 96 Volcano of Consequina — Gulf of Fonscca . . .242 Fort George, Astoria ..... 289 Port Anna Maria, Nuhuhiva, Marquesas . . . 353 VIGNETTES.

Appearance of Ice . . . . . 7(> Native Chief of Port Mulgrave . . . .8-1 Woman with Mouth-piece . . . . .86 Native Chief of Sitka . . . . .102 Castanet . . . . . . .103 Tomb .... .104 Macquilla . . . . . .108 Burial Canoe ...... 292 Cradles ....... 307 Slate Pipes of North-west America . . . 309 Indian Skull . . . . _ .311 FOR CAPTAIN BEECHEY, SUBSEQUENTLY FOR CAPTAIN BELCHER. The general objects of the expedition which has been placed under your command having been set forth in their Lordships' orders, it becomes my duty to enter somewhat more diffusely into the nature and details of the service which you are to perform. The first point to which your orders advert after quitting England is the Eight Stones. You will probably add one more to the many testimonies which have been already collected of their non-existence, at least in the position assigned to them in the old charts ; but before we venture to expunge them it would be satisfactory to make all the inquiry in your power at Madeira, respecting the traditions on which their existence is asserted.

In approaching the coast of Brazil, you will have a good opportunity of verifying or discarding the bank of sound- VOL. I. c ings which has been adopted in our charts, from a circum stantial account in the remark-book of the Fly, within a week after her leaving Bahia, and with chronometer on board. For this purpose it will be proper to run down the parallel of 16° 50 S., (or 16° 55, so as to allow for the northerly current,) and to carry in a chain of deep sea soundings from about the longitude of 35° 30 W., till in 37° 30 W. From thence you may shape an extremely useful course, so as to round Cape St. Thome and Frio at such a distance, if the wind will permit, as will enable you to intersect some very discordant soundings which have been inserted in the chart, from different but apparently good authorities.

One well determined line of genuine depths will go far to elucidate all the difficul ties. At Rio de Janeiro, or at Santa Catharina, you will have an important task to perform, and the choice of the two places is of no moment, provided the chronometers enable you to determine their meridian distance with precision. The longitude of the former has been reduced within very narrow limits, by various observers, and a vast number of observations of various kinds, the mean of which gives 43° 8 W., for the little island of Villegagnon ; but as every change of a standard meridian is attended with great inconvenience to seamen, it may be hoped that a good series of moon-culminating stars may now put the question at rest, so that no further alteration will be requisite at least for nautical purposes.

As magnetic phenomena are objects of much scientific interest at present, you should not lose the opportunity of obtaining some careful observations of dip and intensity, at one of the above places, and likewise at one of the high southern positions where it was obtained by Captain P. King. Port Famine would be well adapted to the purpose if other circumstances should not render that route incon venient, and the more so as it was the standard meridian to which he referred all the longitudes of his survey. From thence there will be nothing to delay your pro gress towards that part of the western coast where Captain Fitzroy's late survey terminated. Unfortunately no account of his concluding operations has yet arrived, but by a comparison of dates it does not appear that there could have been time to examine much of the coast of Chili, to the northward of Valparaiso, or even to complete it down to that port.

This question must be decided, because at no great distance to the southward lie the shoals of Topocalmo, where an American ship was wrecked, and which, if they have not been satisfactorily laid down by him, and their connexion with the shore examined, must not be neglected by you. It is, however, probable that at Valparaiso you will be able to obtain such information on that subject, as may help to guide your movements ; but if not, there will be little danger of repeating any part of his work if you commence yours at Coquimbo, leaving the interval to be hereafter effected, when the return of the Beagle, or the arrival of her despatches, shall enable me to define more exactly the point at which the great work assigned to you by their Lordships ought to begin. Of that extensive region which your work is to com prehend, we are at present best acquainted with the southern portion, including- Chili and Peru.

Yet of those long and populous coasts, excepting the ports of Guayaquil and Callao, our whole knowledge is derived from two Spanish charts, on the limited scale of one inch to twenty-eight miles ; and it appears from Captain Fitzroy's recent examination of the large island ofChiloe, and of the intricate gulf of Chonos, that those charts c XX are evidently the result of mere running of surveys. The half-knowledge to be obtained by this kind of survey, has always acted as a check on the advance of geographical and nautical information, and is in itself useless ; for the native coaster wants nothing beyond his local expe rience; the regular foreign trade employs a pilot; and the occasional visitor sees that all the details are so unlike the truth, that he does not even attempt to correct ; — and thus our enterprising carriers in peace, and our active cruizers in war, find themselves equally foiled in their operations along shore.

These evils can be remedied only by correct charts, on scales appropriate to the greater or less intricacy of their contents, and showing the true shape and nature of the shore, the positions of the towns, the places for anchoring, the depths on the bank, and the appearance of the land, as it makes in the offing. The present state of science, and the excellence of modern instruments, afford ample means for acquiring this knowledge with comparative facility, and our western American commerce has long been in need of such charts ; but especially now, that the impulse it has received from the revolutions of those rich but only half maritime countries, has brought our vessels into contact with every port from Valdivia to the Columbia. In carrying this great survey into effect, their Lord ships have placed the fullest reliance on the unabated zeal and talents which you have heretofore displayed, and they have cautiously and wisely abstained, in your orders, from fettering you in the selection of your ground, or in that division and disposition of your time, which the periodic changes of season, or the occasional neces sities of the vessels, may require.

If, therefore, Provi dence permits you to preserve your resources unimpaired, and if the several governments interpose no obstacles, you will, doubtless, pursue this important work, with all the energy in your power, and with all the perseverance consistent with a due regard to the health of your officers and crews. Where their Lordships have placed such unlimited confidence, it would ill become me to enter too minutely into the lesser pursuits, which are connected with the main object of the coast line ; but there are some de tached islands and dangers to which it is proper to advert, and to which it is necessary to call your attention. In crossing from one division of the survey to the other, you might visit and determine the position of the little islands of St. Felix ; for though they can offer neither resources nor shelter, yet such insulated specks in the ocean are often useful to the mariner in rectifying his longitude.

A little further to the westward, the brig Cannon, in 1827, discovered a dangerous reef, of half a mile in length, which she called the London Bank, and placed in 27° 6 south, and 92° 16 west, and which it would be useful to verify. If there be any truth in the report that the earthquake of February has considerably shaken the island of Juan Fernandez, it might be useful to stretch over there, and to examine if any material change has really taken place in the anchorage. Some other extraordinary effects of this earthquake are said to have occurred on the coast of Chili, in permanently elevating part of the shore, and in changing the depth of the adjacent sea. These asser tions, if at all true, are probably exaggerated, and you will render a service to geology, by minutely inquiring into the circumstances, and communicating the result without delay.

It may be hoped that Captain Fitzroy has sufficiently examined the Galapagos, and therefore, till that is ascer tained, your time should not be occupied there. Cocos Island is stated by Vancouver to be only foui miles in length, while, according to Collnet, it is not less than four leagues ; and its position being also imper fectly known, it should be visited. The little solitary islet of Malpelo should likewise be definitively placed. The islands of Revilla, Gigado, &c., will naturally be included in your general chart of California. Further off, in 10° North, and about 130° West, a large group of coral islands is supposed to have been seen. It is not probable that you will have to stand so far out in any of your traverses, but if accident should lead you near them, it will be proper to esta blish their position, and to ascertain their general character- Political circumstances have invested the Columbia river with so much importance, that it will be well to devote some time to its bar and channels of approach, as well as to its inner anchorages and shores.

In touching at some of the points of Vancouver's survey, you will perceive, that unless in any cases of gross error, it is not their Lordships' intention that you should do more than rectify the general longitudes in the chart of that officer, as they are probably quite adequate to any interest that is felt at present about that archipelago of islands. If, however, you have a convenient opportunity, it will be desirable to ascertain whether there is not a broad sea passage through his King George Island, dividing it into two islands. As the terminal point of your whole survey to the northward, the magnificent mountain of St. Elias may be named ; and its exact position and height should therefore be determined. Next in importance to the accuracy of the coast line and of the shoals, is the precision and fulness of the soundings, with the quality of the bottom.

There can be no doubt that the nature of the substances which are spread over the bottom of the sea does not depend on mere chance, but that they are in some measure con nected with the adjacent shores, and sometimes with those of more distant parts of the coast, from which they have been swept by currents ; and it would be a great benefit to navigation if this relationship could be satisfac torily traced. The transition also from one species of sand to another, and the link by which these beds or patches are connected, are subjects which would be well deserving the reflection and exertions of our scientific mariners. Besides the soundings to be carried along shore, (the breadth of which zone, proceeding from the back of the rollers, will depend on their depth and regularity,) the outer edge of the bank should also be laid down, as being a most important aid to the navigator, and a sufficient number of depths marked in the inter vening space, to show the general slope of the bank.