A Voyage of Discovery towards the North Pole, performed in His Majesty's Ships Dorothea and Trent, under the command of Capt. David Buchan, R.N, 1818; to which is added, a summary of all the early attempts to reach the Pacific by way of the Pole

Part I Situation

or I.H.1MO TMHT, A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, PERFORMED IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIPS DOROTHEA AND TRENT, UNDER THE COMMAND OF CAPTAIN DAVID BUCHAN, R.N.; 1818; TO WHICH IS ADDED, A SUMMARY OF ALL THE EARLY ATTEMPTS TO REACH THE PACIFIC BY WAY OF THE POLE. liY CAPTAIN F.W. BEECHEY, R.N., F.R.S. ONE OF THE LIEUTENANTS OF THE EXPEDITION. PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, $ubltsfjer tit <©rUman> to fetr fHajestit. 1843. LONDON. Printed by S. &: J. Bentlky, Wilbok. and Ft,rv Baofeor-Eouse, Shoe- Lane. OF To SIR JOHN BARROW, BART., F.R.S., &c THE ORIGINATER AND PROMOTER OF MODERN ARCTIC DISCOVERY, THIS VOLUME, CONTAINING A NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION UNDER THE COMMAND OF CAPTAIN DAVID BUCHAN, R.N. TOWARDS THE NORTH POLE, AND A SUMMARY OF EARLY ATTEMPTS TO REACH THE PACIFIC BY WAY THE POLE, IS, WITH PERMISSION, RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY HIS FAITHFUL AND OBLIGED FRIEND, THE AUTHOR. March, 1843. CONTENTS.

PART I. TAGE

Introduction . ....... 1 Instructions ........ 0

Chapter I

Expedition determined upon. — Its objects. — Instructions. — Equipment. — Departure. — Visit Shetland. — A leak discovered. — Cherie Island. — Packed Ice. — Spitzbergen. — Magdalena Bay. — Glaciers . . . . .23

Chapter II

Quit Magdalena Bay. — Revisit the Ice. — The Trent driven into the packed ice. — Her dangerous situation. — The ice opens. — The ships enter and are beset. — Cause of the leak in the Trent discovered and remedied. — Heavy pressure of the ice. — Intricate situation of the vessels. — They regain the open sea. — Walruses make a formidable attack upon the boats of the Trent. — Their habits de scribed. — Expedition procee s to Fair Haven. — Description of the anchorage. — Numerous graves and remains of habitations discovered . . . . . .61 VI CONTENTS.

Chapter III. Page

Put to sea from Fair Haven. — Renew the attempt to get to the northward. — Difficulty of proceeding — Beset in the ice. — Regain the open sea, after having been three weeks beset. — A storm compels the expedition to take refuge in the ice. — Perilous situation of the vessels. — Their fortunate deliverance. — The shattered condition of the ships obliges them to go into port . . 104

Chapter IV

Extent of damage ascertained. — Captain Buchan's de termination thereupon. — Description of the anchorage, and of the adjoining coast. — Geological feature. — Line of perpetual snow. — Glaciers, their formation, &c. — Dan ger of approaching them ..... 129

Chapter V

Early attempts to settle Spitzbergen. — Fishing-ground contested. — A party winter in Bell Sound. — Their sufferings. — Attempt to colonize Jan Mayen. — Sufferings and death cf the party. — A similar attempt made at Spitz bergen. — Death of the party. — Ships repaired. — Put to sea. — Trace the barrier of ice toward Greenland. — Return to England. — Sir Edward Parry's attempt to reach the Pole over the ice. — Concluding remarks CONTENTS. VII

Part II. Chapter

I. PAGE Events which led to the prosecution of Arctic discovery. — Extent of geographical knowledge in the 15th century. —Oriental commerce. — Monopoly. — Columbus. — Jealousy of the Portuguese leads to the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope, and a navigable route to Cathay. — Eng land, desirous of participating in Oriental commerce, at tempts a passage through the Arctic seas — First Polar voyage 215

CHAPTER II.

The States General of Holland offer a reward for the discovery of a northern passage to China. — Two vessels are equipped by the merchants. — William Barentz and Cornelison Ryp appointed to command them. — Make Cherie Island. — Discover Spitzbergen. — Mildness of its climate. — Barentz and Ryp differ in opinion. — Separate. — Barentz reaches Nova Zembla. — Annoyed by bears. — Pass the northeast point of the Island. — Cheering prospect. — Disappointment. — Dangerous situation. — En deavours to return. — Prevented and compelled to winter. — Builds a house. — Death of the carpenter. — Bears be come voracious, and endanger the party. — Intense cold — CONTENTS. VIII PAGE Sufferings of the party. — Cheerfulness under their misfortunes. — Twelfth day. — Reappearance of the sun. — Extra ordinary refraction. — Ice breaks up. — Ship rendered un serviceable. — Abandoned. — Two boats prepared. — Party embark on their return home. — Death of Barentz. — Reach Cola. — Meet with Cornelison Ryp. — His unsuccessful voyage. — Return to Holland. — Hudson proceeds on a Polar voyage. — Traces the coast of Greenland to 73° N. — Visits Spitzbergen, and tries to pass to the north of it. — Repulsed. — Returns by the west side of the Island. — Proceeds again towards Greenland. — Imminent peril. — Finding no passage, returns, by Cherie Island, to Eng land • 240

CHAPTER III.

Hudson's second voyage. — Jonas Poole's first voyage. — Jonas Poole's second voyage. — Poole's third voyage. — Baffin's first voyage. — Baffin's second voyage with Fotherby. — Baffin and Fotherby again. — Suspension of Arctic research. — Voyages resumed. — Wood and Flawes. — Russian enterprise under Tschitschagoff . . 272

CHAPTER IV.

.The British Government equips an expedition, under the command of the Hon. Capt. Phipps, R.N. — Racehorse aud Carcass appointed to this service. — Departure. — Spitzber gen. — Barrier of ice. — Fair Haven. — Seven Islands. — Ships beset and abandoned Crew take to the boats. — Ice opens. — They regain their ships. — Effect an escape. CONTENTS. IX PAGE — Put into port. — The Pendulum set up. — Return of the expedition to England .... 298

Appendix

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I. Abstract of Experiments made at Spitzbergen . 333 II. Temperature of the Sea .... 339 III. Currents of the Ocean ..... 341 A Letter from Captain Sabine, R.A., on the measurement of an arc of the meridian at Spitzbergen . .344 b ILLUSTRATIONS. Situation of H.M. Brig Trent, June 7, 1818, Frontispiece Magdalena Bay .... To face page 45 Woodcut of Walruses ..... 55 Red Bay, ships beset off ..... 68 Trent's Boat attacked by Walruses ... 94 H.M.S. Dorothea running into the Ice in a gale. . 124 ERRATA. Page 11 line 6, for westward read eastward. „ 23 „ 7, „ 1793 „ 1773. DIRECTIONS TO BINDER. The Chart to be put loose in a pocket in the cover at the beginning, with a piece of ribbon to pull it out. A VOYAGE ro THE NORTH POLE

Introduction

. In submitting to the public the Voyage of Captain Buchan towards the North Pole, I am aware that much of the interest which attached to that expedition has now subsided ; and I should not have given it my attention at this late period, had it not been from a sense of duty which, as one of the individuals employed upon the service in question, I owe to the public, who naturally expect from the officers engaged in any national undertaking some account of the manner in which that service has been performed. It further appears to me incumbent upon the officers engaged in this expedition to take care that this voyage, which was conducted with great B

INTRODUCTION.

. zeal and perseverance, and attended with a result, if not successful, at least honourable to the nation, should be handed down to posterity with the records of others of a similar kind ; and that we ought to avoid the imputation which Hakluyt has deservedly cast upon some of our early writers, who, he says, " should have used more care in preserving the memoires of the worthy actes of our nation."* Moreover, the public will naturally feel a desire to have the series of Northern Voyages complete. These voyages, which have redounded to the nation's honour, and which are now, un happily, discontinued, have all, at various times, been published, with the exception of the one now presented to the public ; of which no au thentic account has ever appeared, beyond a few remarks which I offered in explanation of a pano rama of the Polar ice, taken from views which I presented to Mr. Barker, on the return of the expedition in 1818.

It is much to be regretted that Captain Buchan, on his return, should have abstained from publishing his own journal, from a feeling that the matter it contained was not of sufficient interest to engage the attention of the general reader, as the importance of the narra- * Hakluyt's Voyages, vol. iii. p. 129.

INTRODUCTION.

. 3 tive must be inevitably weakened by its having fallen into less experienced hands, and as it is always desirable, moreover, to have from the commander of an expedition a personal state ment of the motives which actuated his con duct. I regret also, that my immediate com mander, Sir John Franklin, has not had leisure to attend to the publication of a voyage in which he bore so conspicuous a part. In the following narrative I have endeavoured to make up for the loss occasioned by the omis sion of Captain Buchan, by scrupulously preserving his opinions upon every point of difficulty which occurred, and by giving his sentiments on every important event ; and I was happy to find, after submitting the sheets to his inspec tion, that their return was accompanied with this observation : — that " all the most promi nent features of the expedition were brought forward in perfect accordance with his views."* His letter also contained this gratifying assur ance, which it is due to my companions upon that expedition to give in the words of their late commander, viz.: — that "my only regret in not having published the proceedings of our attempt to reach the Pole, is the privation of making the public acquainted with my entire * Captain Buchan's letter, dated August 1, 1834. b

INTRODUCTION.

. 4 approbation of the conduct of the officers and seamen I had the honour to command."* The narrative, however, although thus far approved by Captain Buchan, is taken from my own private journal ; and I hold myself respon sible for whatever faults may be found in the course of its pages. Before I had finished this narrative, it was suggested to me that it would receive additional interest if a sketch of the several voyages which had already been performed in the same direction were appended, in order that the public might be made acquainted with the origin and pro gress of Northern Discovery without having to wade through ponderous folio volumes, or make a selection from the " Voyages of a mixed cha racter." To such as have not perused these voyages, I trust they will be of use in assisting their judgment as to the merits of the one now placed before them ; and those persons who recognise them as old friends will find them accompanied by remarks which modern surveys have sug gested, and by corrections of some mistakes which appear to have been made in modern compilations. But it must be borne in mind, that it is not intended to give more than a brief * Captain Buchan's letter, dated August 1, 1834.

INTRODUCTION.

. outline of these voyages, which have been de tailed by one of our ablest authors in the " Chronological History of Voyages to the North and North-west ;" and it must be further under stood, that these voyages are strictly confined to such as have been made towards Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla. INSTRUCTIONS by the Commissioners for executing the Office of Lord High Admiral of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland, &c. His Royal Highness the Prince Regent having signified his pleasure to Viscount Mel ville that an attempt should be made to discover a northern passage, by sea, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Ocean ; We have, in consequence thereof, caused four ships or vessels to be fitted out and appropriated for that purpose, two of which, the Isabella and Alexander, are intended to proceed together by the north-westward, and through Davis' Straits ; and two, the Dorothea and Trent, in a direction as due north as may be practicable through the Spitzbergen sea.

And whereas, we have thought fit to entrust you with the command and direction of the latter expedition, and have directed Lieutenant Frank lin, who has been appointed to command the Trent, to follow your orders for his further pro- INSTRUCTIONS. ceedings ; You are hereby required and directed to proceed to sea, with all convenient despatch, in the Dorothea : and, taking under your orders the Trent above-mentioned, make the best of your way into the Spitzbergen Seas, through which you will endeavour to pass to the north ward, between Spitzbergen and Greenland, with out stopping on either of their coasts. In this passage you may expect to meet with frequent obstruction from fields and islands of ice, to get clear of which, and to ensure the safety of the ships and people committed to your charge, will require from you and all who are under your orders the greatest precaution and vigilance.

And, as the navigation among ice may be considered as an art to be acquired only by practice, we have directed that there be appointed to each of the ships under your orders a master and a mate of whale-fishing vessels, well experienced in those seas, from whose know ledge and skill you may derive considerable as sistance. As, with the imperfect knowledge we have of the sea beyond Spitzbergen, no specific in structions can be given for your guidance, the time and manner of proceeding to fulfil the ulterior object of your destination, in places where impediments may occur, must be left en- INSTRUCTIONS. tirely to your discretion ; in the exercise of which we rely upon your zeal and skill in your pro fession for the accomplishment, as far as it can be accomplished, of the service on which you are employed, not doubting that every exertion will be made on your part and on that of your officers ; while, at the same time, no precaution will be omitted that prudence may dictate to avoid accidents on an enterprise of so arduous a nature as that of conducting ships in safety through fields of ice in unknown seas.

It may not, however, be amiss to suggest, as a general observation, that a passage through fields of ice is most likely to be found where the sea is deepest and least connected with land, as there is reason to suppose that ice is found to be more abundant near the shores of the continent and islands, in narrow straits and deep bays ; and it may also be expected, that the sea will be most clear of ice where the currents are strongest, as the stream of a river will continue open long after the sides are frozen up. From the best information we have been able to obtain, it would appear that the sea to the northward of Spitzbergen, as far as 83^°, or 84°, has been found generally free from ice, and not shut up by land. Should these accounts, in which several masters of whaling-vessels INSTRUCTIONS. concur, turn out to be correct, there is reason to expect that the sea may continue open still more to the northward, and in this event you will steer due north, and use your best endeavours to reach the North Pole.

In making this attempt you will be most particularly attentive to ascertain the rate of your chronometers, as, should you reach the Pole, your future course must mainly depend upon the accuracy with which you may be able to carry with you the time at Greenwich. If you should be so fortunate as to reach the Pole, and the weather should prove favourable, you are to remain in its vicinity for a few days, in order to the more accurately making the observations which it is to be expected your interesting and unexampled situation may furnish you with. Among many objects of science or curiosity which are likely to present themselves at or near this point of the earth's surface, you will more particularly direct your attention to the variation and inclination of the magnetic needle, and the intensity of the magnetic force, and how far it is affected by the atmospherical electricity ; for which latter purpose you will be furnished with an electrical apparatus peculiarly constructed for this object.

INSTRUCTIONS. You will also endeavour to ascertain the set and velocity of any currents which you may observe, and if possible the depth of the sea and the nature of the bottom, and you are to take up several bottles of sea water from the surface, and from different depths, which you will carefully cork up and label. On leaving the Pole you will endeavour to shape a course direct for Behring's Straits ; but should you find that course so much obstructed, either by land or ice, as to prevent your pro gress, you are to return to the south-westward and endeavour to pass between Greenland and the east coast of America, into the sea called Baffin's Bay, for the northern limits of which, as it appears in the charts, there is little or no authority, and thence by Davis' Strait to England. Should you find it impossible to approach the Pole, but that you should be able to pro ceed in a direction affording any prospect of reaching Behring's Strait, you are to adopt it, recollecting that, although it is highly desirable, with a view to the interests of science, and the extension of natural knowledge, that you should reach the Pole, yet that the passage between the Atlantic and Pacific is the main object of your mission ; and with this view, if you should INSTRUCTIONS. 11 find the course west of Spitzbergen obstructed to such a degree, as, after reasonable trial, to afford no chance of a passage, you are to re turn, and endeavour, if too much of the season shall not have elapsed, to make your way to the southward and westward of Spitzbergen.

In this case, too, you will endeavour, in the first place, to pass due north over or near the Pole, and only when that attempt shall be hope less, take such a lateral course as circumstances may open to you. You will take all possible precaution against being obliged to winter in those seas, particularly in those north of Spitzbergen, concerning which we are in a state of entire ignorance. Should you, either by passing over or near the Pole, or by any lateral direction, make your way to Behring's Strait, you are to endeavour to pass into the Pacific Ocean ; and, in the event of your succeeding to pass this strait, you are then to make the best of your way to Kams chatka, if you think you can do so without risk of being shut up by the ice on that coast, for the purpose of delivering to the Russian Governor duplicates of all the journals and other documents which the passage may have supplied ; with a request that they may be for warded overland to St. Petersburgh to be con- INSTRUCTIONS. veyed to London ; and from thence you will proceed to the Sandwich Islands, or New Albion, or such other place in the Pacific Ocean as you may think proper, to refit and refresh your crews ; and, if during your stay at such place a safe opportunity should occur of sending these papers to England, you should send duplicates by that conveyance.

If the circumstances of your passage should be such as to encourage your attempting to return by the same course, you may winter at the Sandwich Islands, New Albion, or any other proper place, and early in next spring may proceed direct for Behring's Strait, and use your endeavours to repass the same ; and, should you succeed in this attempt, you are to proceed, if possible, to the eastward, keeping in sight and approaching the coast of America whenever the position of the ice will permit you so to do, in order that you may be en abled to ascertain the latitudes and longitudes of some of the most remarkable headlands or inlets that may occur, taking every possible precaution, however, against being beset by the ice, and thus being compelled to winter on that coast. Before, however, you determine on returning by the same way, you will maturely consider INSTRUCTIONS 13 and weigh the prudence of making such an attempt.

If your original passage should be made with facility, and you see reason to be lieve that your success was not owing to circumstances merely accidental or temporary, and that there is a probability that you may be able, also, to accomplish the passage back, it would be undoubtedly of great importance that you should endeavour to make it; but if, on the other hand, it shall have been attended with circumstances of danger or difficulty, so great as to persuade you that the attempt to return would risk the safety of the ships and the lives of the crews, you, in this case, are to abandon all thoughts of returning by the northern passage, and are to make the best of your way homeward by Cape Horn.

Previous to your leaving England, or, at any rate, before your departure from Shetland, you are to fix with Captain Ross, to whom the other expedition is entrusted, upon a rendezvous in the Pacific ; and, if you should join that officer, you are to put yourself under his orders ; but if you should be joined by the Alexander alone, or if Captain Ross should not be in command, you are to take the ship or ships under your orders, and, having detached one ship, with a copy of all your papers, and a complete set of INSTRUCTIONS. despatches, reporting your proceedings, to Eng land, by the route of Cape Horn, you are to proceed with the other ships to re-pass Behring's Strait, as above directed, if you should have determined on that course ; but, if you should have resolved to return by the south, you are to take care to interchange with the lieutenant commanding the other vessels copies of your respective journals and despatches ; or, if you do not meet Captain Ross, or his ships, you are to deposit copies of your own papers on board the Trent, in order to ensure as far as possible the arrival of these important docu ments in England by thus multiplying the modes of conveyance.

If, however, either on the passage out, or on the return, it should so happen that, from obstruction of ice, or any other circumstance, your progress should be so slow as to oblige you to winter in those parts, you are in that case to approach the most convenient land, and endeavour to find out some secure bay in which the ships may be laid up for the win ter ; taking such measures for the health and comfort of the people committed to your charge as the materials with which you are supplied for housing-in the ships, or hutting the men on shore, may enable you to do. And, if you INSTRUCTIONS. 15 shall find it expedient to resort to this measure, and you should meet with any inhabitants, either Esquimaux or Indians, near the place where you winter, you are to endeavour, by every means in your power, to cultivate a friendship with them, by making them presents of such articles as you may be supplied with, and which may be useful or agreeable to them ; you will, however, take care not to suffer your self to be surprised by them, but use every precaution, and be constantly on your guard against any hostility.

You will endeavour to prevail on them by such reward, and to be paid in such manner, as you may think best to answer the purpose, to carry to any of the settlements of the Hud son's Bay Company, or of the North-West Company, (should you winter near the coast of America,) or to any of the Russian settlements of Siberia, (should you winter on the coast of Asia,) an account of your situation and pro ceedings, with an urgent request, that it may be forwarded to England with the utmost pos sible despatch. But you are to recollect, in your first at tempt to proceed to the northward, that you are to take care not, on any account, unless accidentally caught in the ice, to remain to INSTRUCTIONS. winter on any part of the coast of Greenland, Spitzbergen, Nova Zembla, or the adjacent coasts, but to leave the ice about the middle, or 20th of September, or the 1st of October at the latest, and make the best of your way to the river Thames.

Although the first and most important object of this voyage, is the discovery of a passage over, or as near the Pole as may be, and through Behring's Strait, into the Pacific, it is hoped that it may, at the same time, be like wise the means of improving the Geography and Hydrography of the Arctic regions, of which so little is hitherto known, and contri bute to the advancement of science and natural knowledge. With this view, we have caused a great variety of valuable instruments to be put on board the ships under your orders, of which you will be furnished with* a list, and for the return of which you will be held responsible; and have also, at the recommendation of the President and Council of the Royal Society, ordered to be received on board the Dorothea, Mr. Fisher, who is represented to us as a gen tleman well skilled in Astronomy, Natural His tory, and various branches of knowledge, to assist you in making such observations as may INSTRUCTIONS. tend to the improvement of Geography and Navigation, and the advancement of science in general.

In addition to those objects of pro minent interest which may be expected to pre sent themselves at the Pole, should you be so fortunate as to reach that point, and which you are also to attend to on every part of your voyage, you are likewise to keep a correct register of the temperature of the air, in various situations, and at different depths ; you will cause the dip of the horizon to be frequently observed by the dip sector, invented by Doctor Wollaston, and ascertain what effect may be produced by measuring that dip across fields of ice, as compared with its measurement across the surface of the open sea; you will also cause frequent observations to be made for ascertaining the refraction, and what effect may be produced by observing an object, either celestial or terrestrial, over a field of ice, as compared with objects observed over a surface of water; together with such other meteorolo gical remarks as you may have opportunities of making.

You are to attend particularly to the height, direction, and strength of the tides, and to the set and velocity of the currents ; the depths and soundings of the sea, and the nature of the bottom ; for which purpose you are c INSTRUCTIONS. supplied with an instrument better calculated to bring up substances than the lead usually employed for this purpose. For the purpose, not only of ascertaining the set of the currents in the Arctic Seas, but also of affording more frequent chances of hearing of your progress, we desire that you do frequently, after you shall have passed the latitude of 75° north, and once every day, when you shall be in an ascertained current, throw overboard a bottle, closely sealed, and containing a paper stating the date and position at which it is launched ; and you will give similar orders to the commander of the Trent, to be executed in case of separation ; and, for this purpose, we have caused each ship to be supplied with papers on which is printed, in several languages, a request that whoever may find it should take measures for transmitting it to this office.

And, although you are not to be drawn aside from the main object of the service on which you are employed, so long as you may be en abled to make any progress, yet, whenever you may be impeded by ice, or find it necessary to approach the coasts of the continent, or islands, you are to cause views of bays, harbours, head lands, &c, to be carefully taken, to illustrate and explain the track of the vessels, or such charts INSTRUCTIONS. 19 as you may be able to make ; on which duty you will be assisted by Lieutenant Beechey, whose skill in drawing is represented to be so considerable, as to supersede the necessity of appointing a professional draughtsman. You are to make use of every means in your power to collect and preserve such specimens of the animal, mineral, and vegetable kingdoms as you can conveniently stow on board the ships ; and of the larger animals you are to cause accurate drawings to be made, to accompany and elucidate the descriptions of them.

In this, as well as in every other part, of your scientific duty, we trust that you will receive material assistance from Mr. Fisher. You are to use your best endeavours, and give instructions to the same effect to Lieutenant Franklin, to keep the two vessels constantly together, and prevent their separation : if, how ever, they should separate you are to appoint Lerwick, in the Shetland Islands, as the first rendezvous ; and, after that, Magdalena Bay, in Spitzbergen, beyond which, as nothing is known, no other rendezvous can be appointed ; and, in the event of any irreparable accident happening to either of the ships, you are to cause the officers and crew of the disabled ship to be removed into the other, and with her singly to proceed c INSTRUCTIONS. in prosecution of the voyage, or return to Eng land according as circumstances shall appear to require.