Lone life: a year in the wilderness

Front matter

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Chapter I

In the month of October, on a peculiarly English day, dull, raw, damp, and dirty, I set sail from Liverpool. There was just sufficient swell on the bar to send half the passengers to their bunks, and make brandy and soda in great request among the remainder.

When outside, the timid expressed themselves in strong terms against the utter disregard for life possessed by nautical men, in going to sea in such weather, the objects of their indignation looking rosy, energetic, and far from conscious that they were likely soon to become food for fishes.

VOL. I. B

The further we retreated from the shores of Old England the heavier became the seas, and the winds piped up in proportion ; but in spite of a Tripoli being smashed on the coast of Ireland, a City of Boston foundering in mid ocean, and the Atlantic having knocked herself into a cocked-hat on Nova Scotia, nothing occurred to break the monotony of our voyage, unless a mania for draw-poker, and a lottery epidemic, both of which were most virulent and general, cold water being the sole application that appeared to act as a mitigator, for it was only while a blue sea was knocking about the furniture in the smokingroom, that any cessation in these maladies became noticeable.

Some inhabitants of London escaped the sting of the plague, neither was Egypt entirely depopulated by the same disease, so we had on board a few that were not affected by the prevailing disorders. These were generally young men who dreamt of collisions by night and thought of shipwrecks by day, who nearly went off their legs from horror when a weather-beaten salt was more forcible than polite in language, or listened with elongated pious face and upturned eyes to the latest and raciest of jokes.

But in spite of croakers and predictors of evil, Sandy Hook was sighted at sunrise ; in a few hours afterwards New York was gained, and our Transatlantic passage was completed within eleven days.

A bath, change of clothes, and good dinner at Delmonico's took away my sea-legs, and caused me to feel as free from fatigue as if I had not been submitted to greater exertion than a stroll down Regent-street.

The metropolis of the Western World has been so often described that I will not inflict the reader with one word upon the subject further than say that it looked none the less busy than in former times, and that the numerous new buildings that had been erected were well worthy to grace any city in the universe.

My desire is to escape the bustle and din of traffic, to get where the puffing of locomotives, and the sonorous yell of the steam whistle has not penetrated — to be surrounded by the works of Nature, not those of man.

To accomplish this in the most rapid and agreeable manner, I take passage via the Hudson River Railroad to Lewiston by way of Albany, for to the North — the far-distant North, region of lakes and rivers, of boundless woods and barrens, of deep winter snows and nightless days — is my destination.

When the conveyance deposits me at the train, and the hurry and bustle of securing my ticket and check- B2 ing my baggage has passed, I feel that I have earned the right to take notice of the different sights that surround me, foremost among which is an immense board with the novel information indited upon it, " When you hear the bell look out for the locomotive." And scarcely had I commenced to puzzle my brain on this gratuitous hint, than a most discordant din caused me to look forth from my car, when I found out that it was a warning to clear the track and give place to the advance of the powerful steam horse.

For miles we thread streets bounded on both sides by populous dwellings, still not a rope or ditch separates the railway from other traffic, yet troops of children on either side play at the various games most in vogue among the rising generation of the Great Republic. Doting mothers here, I think, must have an anxious time. Still, I must confess, I did not see any excited females rushing about to look after their progeny. The truth of the matter is simply this : at the age English hopefuls would be in perambulators, or at any event under charge of a nursery-maid, these embryo western citizens are able to take care of themselves.

By degrees dwellings become less numerous and more irregular in style of architecture, and our pace increases to fifteen miles an hour, soon affording us a view of the glorious Hudson River, and of the rocky wood-clad heights that surround it. Of all seasons of the year this is the one to see this locality in perfection, for although never otherwise than beautiful, it is now indescribably lovely, recalling far more visions of dreamland than stern reality. As we advance every bend and turn disclose fresh attractions, till the brain becomes bewildered in its embarrassment of riches.

Six or seven hours under ordinary circumstances in a train, is certainly monotonous, but in this instance it is not so, for the mind has never been without food for thought, or the eye objects of admiration.

At length we halt opposite to Albany, city of canalboats and machine shops, and the greater portion of our passengers hurry off to reach the ferry-boat that is waiting to convey them to its legislative shades, for know this is the capital of the State, and carpetbaggers, button-holers, and place-hunters haunt their friends in office, as mosquitoes would an intruder into a swamp.

At length newspaper boys, hackmen, and hotel touts are got rid of, the deep bass whistle grunts a warning, the bell again commences its measured tinkle, and the train is once more under motion.

Troy is the next place where a halt takes place ; in size, go-aheadism, and wealth it outshines Albany. To carefully survey the people, and form an estimate of them from their manner, you would find it difficult to decide whether they thought New York city should be proud of them, or they proud of New York city. No, the Trojans have no small estimate of themselves, and in their time have produced some well-known characters. Heenan, the prize-fighter, hailed from here, and its youth of the present generation take as much interest in the fraternity , as the clogbooted natives of Oldham would in a kicking match where one of the contestants was a stranger, and wore on his extremities pumps. To a native of the city of New York, Albany and Troy are " one-horse places," in their own opinion they are " a four-in-hand, and nothing less."

Again the tinkle tinkle of the bell tolls the hour for departure, and the train commences to move ; still the bustle and confusion does not cease, for new arrivals are still seeking for seats, and friends bidding adieu are loth to part, but our speed continues to increase, the last moment for disembarkation has arrived, and in spite of the probabilities of broken legs and heads, all the non-travellers disembark safely, at least I did not hear of any casualties.

After leaving Troy, the Hudson is crossed, still a grand river, although a hundred and fifty miles from its mouth, and our course takes us through a lovely country, rivalling in scenery the sunny slopes and hazel-covered brows of Shropshire.

Then the Mohawk River is reached, and for miles we retain it in view. Its varied banks, dark pools, murmuring rapids, possess many attractions, and not the least among them being the thrifty, clean, neat farm-houses everywhere to be seen,.smiling forth from luxuriant orchard or hardwood grove. But the iron horse does not linger, and fresh scenes present themselves, the surface of the country becoming more level, the cultivation more thorough, till a vast district is entered, which for extent and fruitfulness it would be difficult to find a rival. No one can doubt that such is the case who uses his sio;ht, for handsome dwelling-houses, immense barns,] well-stocked stackyards, are never out of view, while droves of well-fed, aye, and well-bred cattle, feed on every pasture field and meadow.

A hundred years ago this was a wilderness. The primeval forest alone tenanted the land, and the beasts of the chase, with the exception of a few scattered tribes of Indians, were the sole animal life it supported. What better proof of the industry and energy of a great and free people can we desire, than such a wonderful transformation as has been here effected ?

As daylight fades away, moonlight takes its place ; and such a moon ! none of your washy crescent-shaped nondescripts, but almost a rival in size and power to the sun.

Not that America possesses another or a better moon than we do, yet there are times in which she shows to greater advantage on the Western Continent than ever I have known her in England.

The change of light does not prevent a good view of the country being obtained, for when Cayuga and Geneva lakes are passed, the distant boats, and more distant villas, can easily be distinguished.

Travelling to me at night always appears more expeditious than by day. So when the crowd of baggage men and hotel touts crowd on board the

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cars before reaching the city of Rochester, I wonder how it is possible that the train has run so far.

But if for a moment I imagine some mistake has been made, that it is another town we are approaching, the deep dark abyss of the Genesse Falls, the towering flour mills, and the size of the station, set the matter at rest for ever.

Here I change carriages, Lewiston on Lake Ontario being my destination, for those I have come thus far in are bound for Buffalo.

After granting sufficient grace to enable me to scald myself with a cup of coffee, the warning hell commences to tinkle, and disgusted with its monotonous tin-pot note, for I had not taken a liking to it from the commencement, I scramble into a seat, not without having to use considerable energy and force, for like myself many others had delayed to the last moment, and had no more idea of being left behind than your humble servant. All is said to be fair in love and war ; I imagine that it is deemed so in trying to get into a train in America, after it has got under way.

After leaving Rochester the country is none the less rich than heretofore, wheat being the staple production, while fruit is cultivated to a great extent ; in fact, the apples from this district cannot be surpassed, and are a large source of revenue to the farmer. The moon is still high in the heavens, so I can see for miles. The ridge in the distance is the commencement of elevated spurs, denominated the Bear Ridges, for at one time the bruin family were so numerous on them, that they constituted a large portion of the early settlers' food ; but, alas ! they have ceased to know what was once their home, and the only- return the sportsman would find for his labour, who tramped over these wood-clad plateaus, would be abundance of woodcock, who, strange to say, have only discovered this favourite feeding ground within a few years.

Lockport is next reached, well meriting the name? for its locks are deserving of the greatest admiration' they being not only large, but admirably constructed. Their elevation and number I cannot say, still both are very great. Many years ago I resided near this thriving place of business : then it was only a village, and land was to be purchased within a few miles of its precincts for fifteen dollars an acre. After making the American coin into pounds sterling, I doubt if a square foot could now be bought between the canal and Lake Ontario.

On leaving the last-mentioned station, farm-yards, orchards, and woodlands are passed in pleasant succession, and ultimately the train slowly enters Lewiston, the termination of the first part of my journey, a pretty town situated upon the banks of the Niagara Kiver, where it mingles its waters with blue Ontario. The dinner gong had sounded before I left my bedroom, for being constructed in pretty much the same mould as other mortals, I was sensible of the fatigue of yesterday's journey ; however, the delay till next morning, when I should catch the steamer for Toronto, was of little moment, so I killed the enemy, time, by wandering about the fort and bastions that once had possessed no small amount of importance. Like all garrison towns, there is an aristocratic tone about, id est, if the military element is not overdone, but only sufficient of it to give the slightest spice to society — for like garlic in cooking, admirable when not abused, the reverse when overdone.

The life of the officers of the United States regular service stationed here, I should think much resembled what it used to be in Great Britain in the good old days of four company depots, before rifle drill, scaling drill, depot battalions, and ever so many more devices were invented by a lot of feather-bed, badtempered, stay-at-home, theoretical and not practical old fools, for the worry and annoyance of those whose value in the field in case of war was without price.

Before me, as I write, looking back into the logbook of memory, I can see a General who never saw a shot fired in his life except at a review, bullying to death an old subaltern, whose brow was tanned with years of service on the plains of India, whose stalwart figure bore many a scar, and whose heart beat under numerous medals — because why? he had made a mistake in his addition, and forgot the weight of a bayonet. As long as the door of the Horse Guards is open to sycophants and the relatives of politicians, whose influence has to be bought over, such things will exist, and thus we lose year by year men, one of whom would be of more use to the country than a brigade of the others.

In due time the steam-boat for Toronto sailed. Ontario was on her good behaviour, and looked as blue and calm as the Bay of Naples in midsummer, when not a breath of air moves with sufficient force to swell the lateen-rigged crafts that sleep upon its placid bosom. A few hours and our destination is reached. Changed from when I last saw it, yes, changed indeed, for dwellings and structures have risen where formerly nothing but waste common could be seen.

The old hotel, its name now forgotten, had given place to a structure worthy of any capital, but the change is acceptable, for the promise of creature comfort is greater than in days gone by, and while within the pale of civilisation, there are few fonder of luxury than self.

The difference between cities of the United States and Canada is very conspicuous, although both adopt the same styles of architecture ; from this reason it is difficult to describe — the nearest simile that strikes me at the moment being, the former represents the strong man under the flush of a stimulant, the latter the same person under the effects of a powerful opiate.

Citizens of the Dominion may feel indignant at

A YEAE IX THE WILDERNESS. 13

what I have said ; my answer is, that I do not see through the eyes of an untravelled fellow-citizen, but through those of a cosmopolitan.

Judging from the appearance of the principal streets at the fashionable hours of the afternoon, there was no scarcity of well-to-do, well-dressed, educated people ; but if I am not mistaken society here is cut up into cliques, ever the bugbear of pleasant reunions, but where you have professionals and government employes, a largely represented mercantile community unless possessed of unbounded means and lavish in their hospitality, are certain to be looked down upon by that high class of society who serve their country for nominal salaries, which, however, I have never known them neglect to draw — possibly to give away in charity.

As I was going into a handsome shop I ran against a straight-haired, clean-shaved, smug, well-fed looking man, with a length of skirt to his coat almost rivalling an " Ulster ;" he wore a white neck-tie, and I observed that the buttons on his outer garment were concentrated in a very close single file down the front. The fault was not mine, for I had my eyes straight to my front ; he, on the other hand, was approaching the door, although his head was turned on one side to give a parting word of instruction to the shopman. Both being tolerably broad and stout we collided ;

not that any injury was done, for the prominent portions of both were soft — very soft, I should say. Of course I raised my hat and murmured a word of apology, expecting a return of the courtesy. However, I was deceived in this nice-looking man — appearances, we all know, are deceptive — for with rather a knock-me-down air he gruffly exclaimed, " Can't you look where you're going, sir V 9 If I were not a most peaceable person, I believe I should have answered him in his own coin or trod on his toes. Out of curiosity I asked from the shopman this polite gentleman's name and profession. I fear he must have made a mistake, or thought I alluded to some one else, for he said, " That is" — well it is better to leave out the name — " a high dignitary of the Church." We have had jovial Father Tom Maguire, of coursing celebrity, also many a parson who could ride across country or whip a salmon river with all competitors, aye, and preach on Sunday a good orthodox sermon beside, but I never met a teacher of humility with less of the quality in his eye or bearing than this Dominion example of lowness of heart and humbleness of spirit. In every fold it is said that a black sheep exists, and this was doubtless that one; but why in earth, when the matter is so easy, don't it get weeded out ?

Chapter II

The Queen's Hotel, my temporary head-quarters, was clean and comfortable, without being extravagant. The landlord was a most pleasant, agreeable, well-educated person, while his sister, the housekeeper, was a pattern that any in her walk of life would have done well to take for an example. In Toronto I remained several days, for here I intended laying in my principal supplies, both for consumption and trade with such Indians I might be thrown in contact.

In selecting my stock I was materially assisted by a gentleman to whom I had brought a letter of introduction, for, having been long in the fur trade, he was thoroughly conversant with what were the requirements of life beyond civilisation.

However, I must not neglect one purchase I have made, namely, a terrier. I was turning the corner of .Young-street when a lad passed me with a dog for sale. I gave the animal a careful look over, and I was so pleased with it that I determined to become a buyer. For ten dollars it became mine, and when I afterwards, at the hotel, had a more careful and thorough examination of my new acquisition, I came to the conclusion that I had obtained a treasure. The lad, who had come thus far to deliver over safely my property and to give me a receipt for the money he received, in answer to my inquiry whether the terrier would kill rats, responded, " Yes, and wood-chucks too, and they are plaguey tough to handle." The last portion of his sentence he need not have added, for well I knew that it was but the gamest of dogs, especially of such diminutive size, that were able successfully to cope with this marmot.

u But the name," continued I.

" Only Skye, sir."

" He isn't one of Captain M.'s breed ?" A race of the purest Skye terriers, imported originally by the old gentleman from his own estate in that island.

" 'Deed he is ; although father has owned the stock for some time now, he got the breed first from the captain's."

If my informant spoke the truth, I had really got a prize, and when I looked at my new acquisition, there was not a single point that would denote him not to he of the pure strain. And well I knew them, for in the old captain's society many years gone by, I had seen one of this very race, in less than a quarter of an hour, although cut and slashed across the legs and chest, draw three foxes from the same earth.

At length I was ready for the start — my baggage I had packed up and forwarded to Orillia by the Ontario, Simcoe, and Huron Eailroad, while I determined to do the first thirty-five miles of my road on foot, for many years ago I had tramped it, and wished again to have a look at scenes familiar to my sight in the days of my youth.

Of all long uninteresting roads, Young-street is possibly the most so, for from the time it leaves the shores of Lake Ontario, till it has advanced over twenty miles inland, it is without a turn, the houses edging it in the lower portion far from attractive, with a want of trees most noticeable. Seventeen miles from Toronto, Richmond Hill is gained — a prosperous little place and a great improvement upon the part of the road traversed; but it is a long and steep climb to reach it. However, its position is worthy of notice, for the ridge on the summit of

VOL. I. C which it stands is a watershed, streams rising on either side of which flow in reverse directions, the northern brooks travelling thousands of miles before they reach the lake, that the southern ones gain in twenty. In explanation of this, a watercourse rising at Richmond Hill and flowing due south, would reach Lake Ontario before it had travelled more than eighteen miles, while a similar stream rising at neighbouring springs, from the dip of the land would have its current directed north ; in the course of time it would enter Holland River, from there into Lake Simcoe, hence through the narrows into Lake Couchachin — then by the Severn into Georgian Bay, a portion of Lake Huron, the waters from which flow through Lake St. Clair, Lake Erie, and the Niagara River, before entering Ontario. Thus we see that the rise or depression of a foot of ground may sever thousands of miles streams which had their origin within a few yards of each other. Do not matters often as trivial sever lives for ever ?

At a roadside tavern at Richmond Hill, I dined at a famous ordinary ; the other guests were lusty, prosperous-looking representatives of their class, owing either to Scotland or Ireland their nativity.

It was soon apparent to me that I was regarded with inquisitive if not suspicious glances, and although several attempts were made during the meal to draw me into conversation, I courteously declined the honour.

After dinner toddy or punch was ordered, the different names being used according to the country that had given the thirsty soul birth. Canadians I knew were accredited with being able to take a fair quantity of ardent spirits, but these farmers could do more, and as their demands were gratified, politics were discussed with additional vehemence.

As I had plenty of time, I rested and enjoyed my pipe, yes, and toddy too, for I was much interested in the conversation. At length a shrewd-looking old Scot, looking keenly at me, and expressing himself in very measured terms, said : " Weel, sir, you look a man o' education and a traveller, will you no agree with me that Mr. Mac — — will make a better member

than that ranting blethering chap Mr. O' V 9 At

the termination of this inquiry several voices were raised together to dilate on the claims of the candidate of whom the 0/ faction was in favour. But the old Scot again got the floor, and with the same earnestness of manner repeated the question previously asked — adding in parenthesis to the others : " We ken what we think, but we'd a' like to ken what the stranger thinks." So silence was established and all

c2 looked forward as if anxious to hear my sentiments. So I found it incumbent on me to say something — which I did in very nearly these words :

"Gentlemen, I know nothing about the matter, so must decline to express an opinion one way or the other."

" Weel, there's mair caution about you than folks would gie you credit for from your looks," said the old Scot.

" Nor devil the bit do his looks belie him ; it's the pluck that's wanting in him," exclaims a regular broth of a boy.

"Well, you're the last should find fault with him," said a ferret-faced looking Lowlander, who kept his eyes on me though addressing the last speaker ; " I'll bet you glasses round he's a Fenian."

"And what if he is, more power to his elbow," exclaimed a good-looking Irish lad who previously had not spoken.

" Likelier far that he be an informer," shouted the first Patlander.

So the clamour rose to boiling point. Neither faction would have me accredited to them at any price; glasses were smashed upon the table, and sticks wheeled about, every indication of a free fight commenced, in which I knew I should be between two fires, both willing to immolate me to their passions ; so I watched my chance, got an opportunity, slipped out through the door, paid my reckoning, and continued my tramp.

I had now got into a neighbourhood that once . I knew well, so sauntered on slowly, picking out from the number of new erections that had sprung up, houses that had once been occupied by old acquaintances. I was possibly about an hour thus engaged when the sound of approaching wheels caused me to turn round. A thick, well-fed, cob-like horse, drawing a light market waggon, on the seat of which was perched the driver, muffled up in such numerous wraps and coats as to cause him to look as broad as long, and evidently affected with more stimulant than he could carry stiffly, was close at hand. When abreast of me the Jehu shouted, " Wo there, canna ye hear, lass, wo!" and the mare stopped, and I recognised my Scotch acquaintance of the tavern.

Steadying himself, he commenced : " Weel, sir, although it's me that says it, ye did uncu good service to you're ain sel', to get ahint the door, down at the public, for though I say it my sel' I'd ha gied ye as bonny a rap over the head wi' my staff, as ye most ever had in your time. I dinna ken now whither I'm doing right to the laws and country no to tak'

you up for a revolutionarising Fenian," but several hiccups prevented him adding more.

Answering, I inquired, " On whose authority he called me a Fenian V

" On the authority of" — hiccup — hiccup — " of every one."

" Well, you may tell every one from me, that they are a pack of fools. Good-day, good-day, sir," and I hurried on.

But the old fellow would not be left behind, but continued to denounce me as a Fenian, and I really commenced to fear that if strangers coming along heard him, they might imagine that there was sufficient truth in his statement to cause me serious hindrance.

So stopping and turning towards my persecutor, with less energy and more softness of voice I informed him that I should sleep at the hotel at Bond Head Lake, where I should probably arrive in an hour, when I would satisfy his curiosity, and prove to his satisfaction that I was not a Fenian.

But this old fellow would not be put off; every second word he declared I had no intention of going to Bond Head Lake, and that if he didn't arrest me then and there, he would not be doing his duty to his country, for he was a loyal subject, and his father was a loyal subject, and how many more generations before them I forget.

I was nearly climbing the fence and leaving the road, when I thought better to satisfy him, for in his present drunken state he might go and alarm the neighbourhood, and have them turn out in pursuit of me. So stepping close up to him, I said, "I'm no Fenian, I'm a Scotchman, like yourself; look at the post-marks on these letters, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Greenock, and read this one."

The old man looked astonished, certainly incredulous ; laying the reins over the splash-board he said, " I maun find my specs before I believe a word of what you say." So he searched every pocket for his spectacles/ultimately finding them in the most unlikely one, then he slowly deciphered the post-marks, and ultimately read a few words of the letter, then closed it, the whole nature of his manner changing. Shoving out his hand with much energy, he had got half-way through the sentence, " Gieme your neuf," when he went out headforemost over the front wheel of the waggon. However, he was a hardy old fellow, and soon regained his limbs, when he shook my hand till he nearly dislocated my arm.