All Round the World. Adventures in Europe, Asia, Africa and America ... With illustrations by S. P. Hall

Front matter

TROPICAL PALL-BEARERS. Frontispiece. ALL ROUND THE WORLD. Adventures in Europe, Asia, Africa, and America. By PARKER GILLMORE, "UBIQUE." AUTHOR OF 'GUN, ROD, AND SADDLE;' 'ACCESSIBLE FIELD SPORTS,' &c. &c. &c. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS By SIDNEY P. HALL. LONDON: CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY. 1871. CONTENTS. Chap. pa(;e I. Boyhood and Mischief . . . . i II. My First Steeplechase . . . 16 III. A Run with the Gibraltar Foxhounds . 29 IV. Rambles in Spain .... 39 V. Barbary Field Sports . . . -47 VI. Afloat in the Mediterranean and Ashore in North Africa . . . .61 VII. An Indian Hunting Encampment . . 67 VIII. First Blood ..... 75 IX. A Sharp Burst . . . . .82 X. The Storm ..... 88 XI. A Veteran Boar . . . . .95 XII. The Search for the Murderer . . 105 XIII. The Tiger's Death . . . .113 XIV. A Forest Scene . . . .120 XV.

Catching a Shark . . . -125 XVI. Tricking an Alligator . . . 131 XVII. Fast on a Coral Reef .... 138 XVIII. A Battle in a Billiard Room . . 143 XIX. Chased by a Buffalo . . . .149 XX. Among Chinese Pirates . . .157 XXI. Shooting near Hong Kong . . .164 XXII. Drifting to Death . . . .175 b Contents. IV Chap. pace XXIII. Wild Duck Shooting . . . .183 XXIV. First Hurdle Race in Japan . . 200 XXV. Voyage through the Japanese Inland Seas 206 XXVI. El Dorado ..... 219 XXVII. A Day in Sonora . . . . .227 XXVIII. The Parks of America . . . 234 XXIX. A Hunting Misadventure . . .251 XXX. Career of an Emigrant . . .261 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Tropical Pall-Bearers Frontispiece. " Last Chance," late "Now or Never" . to face page 31 At Bay „ 59 Our Camp „ 90 Incapable of Mischief ,,117 A Rude Intrusion » '53 The Patriarch's Attendants .... „

Chapter I. Boyhood And Mischief

MY FATHER was a good and ardent sportsman ; as a shot he was inferior to few, while I have never met any person who could beat him as a fly-fisher man ; even till the last days allotted him on earth, he could find pleasure by the brawling stream, and although his eye had lost its brilliancy and his hand its quick ness, still numerous were the fine trout and salmon that rewarded his labour. Doubtless it is from my father that I inherit this enthusiasm for field sports which has induced me to seek game in almost every portion of the globe, not only for the sake of slaughter, but in order to study their habits and instincts. Nor am I satiated ; the table may lose its attractions, the wine cup cease to gratify, and the majority of the amusements of youth become stale and tedious, still I crave for those inno- B cent pleasures which man enjoys to perfection when alone with nature, away from the strife and turmoil of society, where the gun and rifle are his truest and most trustworthy friends.

The first episode in field sports I can remember was hunting water-rats, by the side of a beautiful trout stream that flowed round the lower portion of the grounds attached to my boyhood's home. In those days I possessed a brace of terriers, which were my constant associates ; they understood my voice as well as if they had been of my own race ; they obeyed my orders more promptly than any Eastern slave ; there existed between us a bond of affection that was inde scribable, yet all-powerful. Wherever I went, they ac companied me ; whether it was to fish, walk, or ride, Quiz and Gip were never far off, and at night they frequently became my bedfellows. In the autumn, when the crops had been gathered and housed, the unfortunate rats sought seclusion and shelter among the tangled weeds and rushes that mar gined the stream, for the scythe of the reaper had ex posed their ordinary retreats and hiding-places.

As soon as lessons were over, I and my canine pets repaired to our hunting-ground. The dogs knew well their work ; every possible hiding-place was beaten ; flags, burrs, or waterlilies, were thoroughly scrutinised, till at length a hole containing our game was found, or a new and strong trail discovered. A sharp quick bark would indicate the welcome news, and the fun and ex citement soon became fast and furious. At length the game is driven to the water ; a sudden splash, as if a stone had been rolled from the bank, tells the story, and one or both the dogs jump into the stream in pursuit, and swim to the centre, awaiting the reappearance of the foe. Over a minute elapses ; all our nerves are strung to the utmost tension from excitement, when up comes the rat, possibly many yards from where his enemies await him ; but their vision is sharp ; the first break on the surface caused by the head of the pursued is sufficient for their quick sight, and at the unfortunate they go.

A stroke more, and one might fancy the pursued would be in Quiz's clutches. Not so. Just as the dog is about to seize the prey, the crafty rodent dives, and this game is played again and again, till the poor vermin, exhausted and half drowned, fails to get below the surface with sufficient rapidity, and so loses its life. When I was about twelve, a great event took place in my hunting career. It was at the end of autumn, and a cold, wintry sun illuminated the joyless land scape. I was returning home after a long tramp, while my companions (the dogs) trotted wearily at heel, for they had run themselves almost to a stand-still in pursuit of hares and rabbits. Suddenly they both uttered a short quick yelp and rushed from me. I followed at best speed, and just as I turned a corner of hedge, I saw a large polecat enter a dilapidated piece of wall not more than a couple of yards in front of his pursuers.

Rats had been large game previously, but here was an adversary that far eclipsed them. Never had I seen the dogs so excited ; they positively screamed out their rage, and even gnawed the stones that afforded a temporary sanctuary to their enemy. An hour's labour failed to dislodge the B foe, and my success appeared more than doubtful, when a labourer came up and helped me to demolish the old structure of granite and mortar. Hereupon the polecat, finding the position untenable, made a sally, but he was unable to fight through his foes, and a moment later game little Gip had him by the loins, in a grip which would have killed a much larger adversary. The odour which the polecat emitted during our efforts to get at him, and after his death, did not frighten the dogs. On the con trary, ever afterwards, when such an effluvia would greet their nostrils, the hair on their backs would rise, and their eyes flash with more than ordinary excitement.

My first shooting experiences began at school in the neighbourhood of the beautiful town of Hamilton, Lanarkshire. On returning, after the holidays, one of our number related how, during his visit at home, he had fired a gun and killed the object of his aim. He dilated with such flowing language upon the pleasures of shoot ing, and the easiness of becoming a crack shot, that we all became smitten with an eager longing to be pos sessors of a gun. A collection among my schoolfellows, amounting to twelve and sixpence, was made for this purpose, and a committee of three appointed to super intend the outlay of the public funds. The starter of the idea was of course selected as one of the honourable trio, for he had become a great man, in the estimation of his fellows, since his home-exploits. I also was honoured with office, because my father was a military man, and because I was destined to serve my Queen and country, and was therefore expected to know more of fire-arms and their use than the common crowd.

The third — and here the sense of my countrymen was exhibited — was selected for his shrewdness in making bar gains, for although he never spent any money or brought playthings from home, yet always before the term Avas over his stock of tops, marbles, bats, and balls exceeded all others. What he was in boyhood, he is now in mature years — a wealthy but still hard-working successful foreign merchant. Having secretly made enquiries, one Saturday after noon we sallied forth to visit a tinkering gunsmith. Long and serious was our conference ; at length a bargain was struck — I might rather say that we obtained three bargains ; namely, an old and dilapidated gun-stock, the lock of an antiquated horse-pistol, and a barrel, red with rust, but declared to be of most superior quality. The smith undertook to put these together, and have them ready for use that day week.

The intermediate time passed slowly. Friday had arrived, when a most serious and previously unforeseen difficulty arose. Who was to go for the gun ? All shirked this responsible duty; to carry fire-arms, even through back streets, in broad daylight was more than any one dared. First one was saddled with the task, then another, each in his turn being accused of cowardice when he refused. Angry words ensued, and even a battle in which one of the combatants got a severe black eye. At length we determined to cast lots to decide who was to perform the objectionable office, and the unlucky number fell to me. School was dismissed at the usual hour on the important Saturday; my com panions were to assemble in a little copse in a neighbouring orchard, where I was to join them with the gun. When I reached the gunsmith, and received our pur chase, I confided my fears to its vendor.

Fortunately I did so, for he truly proved a friend, and despatched his assistant with the treasure to the place of rendezvous, which I reached by a different route. With due com ments, and advice from all, under the supervision of the gunsmith's boy, our single barrel was loaded. To whom was the honour of the first shot to be confided ? With universal acclamation, the companion who had shot during the holidays was selected ; but to our surprise he modestly declined the offer. Some went so far as to say he was a muff and afraid, and had never fired a gun in his life ; but even such insinuations would not alter his determination. As the gunsmith's assistant was second choice, he took the weapon with the air of a man ; his courage and manner made a great impression, and he temporarily became a hero.

Next, for a victim. Each limb and bough was searched, and at length an unfortunate robin, whistling, yet shivering in the cold autumnal atmosphere, was found ; the crowd halted, the adven turous marksman advanced ; some dared the advice that " Now was the time ! You are close enough ! " What impertinence to pretend to know more of projectiles and their range than a gunmaker's assistant ! Closer, closer he crept, with cautious measured stride ; every be holder held his breath ; not five yards severed the songster from his destroyer ; the gun was raised, an aim taken, oh ! such a long aim — from its length doubtless we considered it very deadly ; a report fol lowed, all rushed to the scene, and scarcely more than a bunch of feathers remained to tell the tale of the murdered robin ! Various were our successes that day ; we brought down a blackbird and thrush, while I winged a house-sparrow.

Then with our game and the gun dismembered we stealthily, like guilty marauders, sought the awe-inspiring school-precincts. Shooting was, you may suppose, the sole subject of that evening's conversation. Those who had been so fortunate as to kill were heroes ; those who had missed were never tired asking for details which might ensure success. As our gun required Avashing after so much work, a quiet hour, when all in the house were supposed to have retired to rest, was selected for the purpose. Por tions of shirts, with innumerable pocket-handkerchiefs, were sacrificed, and voluntarily offered for this service, when, to the surprise of all, in walked the Dominie ! All fled to their couches in dismay, and our well-prized and proved gun fell into the hands of the enemy, never again to revert to its rightful owners.

Not only did we suffer this loss, but on Monday all were arraigned ; the surrep titious introduction of the weapon formed the subject of a court of enquiry, and each of the supposed ringleaders got a jolly good whacking. Months rolled by ; the punishment I had received on the occasion just stated had lost much of its effect through the lapse of time, and I was again seduced into a shooting escapade. A big boy, two years older than myself, had arranged with a cotter for the loan of a gun at the rate of sixpence for the afternoon. Funds, how ever, were wanted for ammunition ; and as I was known to be flush, and, at the same time, trustworthy, I Avas admitted into partnership. Without mishap we arrived at our hunting-ground, the margin of a brook, near which rabbits had been seen. With bunny our acquaintance did not amount to intimacy.

At last a water-hen was flushed ; she flew into a tree, where she was ignominiously and unfeelingly slaughtered. When our game was picked up, a horrible thought struck us. Perhaps we had been guilty of a violation of the game laws. The dead bird and gun would certainly lead to our detection, and then we should be shut up in gaol. Accordingly, we resolved to hide the gun in some grass, and sink the bird in the first deep pool we reached, by tying a stone to its feet. Our guiity conscience for many a long day caused us to bury this secret in our bosoms. In fact, for weeks after the transaction, any unusually forcible ring at the hall door caused my heart to jump into my throat, as I felt certain it must emanate from an officer of the law, clothed with powers which would justify our arrest, dead or alive.

At length school-days ended — alas, that they should ! for my young friends will find, as time rolls on, that they are not the least happy of life — and from a relation I accepted, with the approval of my parents, an invita tion to Cumberland. This was a delightful visit. I was actually trusted with a double-barrel, and had a pony to ride on. Which I enjoyed the most, it would be difficult to say. One portion of the day I was on horseback, the other dealing destruction to the unfortunate feathered beauties that came in my way. Now that I am older, and, I hope, wiser, I regret having been the cause of such objectless massacres. As for the pony, I broke his knees jumping a fence large enough for a thorough-bred to tumble over, and he therefore was unfit for work till time had patched up the injury.

For shooting by accident an old and valued hen belonging to a neighbouring Quakeress lady, I was deprived of fire-arms : and without gun, without horse, I became most miserable ; in fact, they had become part and parcel of my existence, and the deprivation of them was the greatest punishment I could suffer. Moping about one day, not knowing what to do, a terrier of well-known pluck followed me, for I and the dogs of all degrees were ever intimate. I entered a large grass field, in the lower portion of which a flock of geese were feeding on the margin of a horse-pond. Without thought, " Pincher" was ordered into the water, probably with the intention of intimidating the birds ; but he mistook my meaning, seized the gander by the neck, the rest of the flock rushed to the rescue, and, to save the dog's life, I had to wade up to my waist to assist him.

It was a splendid fight. The dog's pluck would not permit his surrendering or letting go the enemy, while the bird's comrades stuck to their chief Avith the most persistent courage. Doubtless but for a stick I had picked up and used with hearty good will Pincher would have been drowned. As it was, he received numerous severe bruises ; but, in return, he deprived the gander of life. However, my escapade had been seen, the story was exaggerated, and, after a lecture on the disgrace attached to such heinous con duct, I was, sorely against my will, despatched home to Scotland. All Round the Wordd. 10 With advancing years my love for shooting and fishing increased. Cricket and foot-ball Avere neglected ; peg-tops and marbles ceased to be attractive. I craved solely for the excitement of field sports.

At length a chance occurred. A kind old uncle paid my father a visit ; and on leaving, he gave me a very genuine tip, a portion of which I determined to spend in a fishing excursion to the Highlands. A description of the capture of my first salmon may not be uninteresting. In less than an hour I reached the spot where I intended to commence operations. I was not a little disappointed to find the water still too thick; but I hoped, by using different varieties of red hackles, to pick up a few fish along the shallow edges of the rapids. My luck was not good, and by the time Old Sol had reached his greatest altitude, I began to despair of a heavy basket, and disgust at want of success had taken a strong hold of my feelings. My appetite also put in a claim for attention ; so, seating myself on a boulder close to the water, I enjoyed, with no very enviable feelings, my frugal and limited meal — " Nursing my wrath to keep it warm.

Having thus dawdled away a couple of hours, the decline of the sun warned me that I had still some way to walk. Picking up my rod and landing-net to put my intentions in operation, I was surprised by the splash of a heavy fish not twenty yards below me, in the clear water formed by the entrance of a mountain rivulet, which, from its lesser size, had settled sooner than the larger stream. It struck me, not having seen the disturber, that it probably was a large brook trout, or, perhaps, a sea one — more likely the former — as the season had not yet arrived for these active and silvery beauties to migrate from their salt-Avater abodes. With bent back, and cautious, steady step, I advanced within casting distance. My heart beat faster, and all my know ledge was put in practice to throw a light and skilful fly.

My father was a fisherman. What a triumph, if I should kill a larger fish than he had ! With what pride should I display my prize, and afterwards narrate my prowess ! Moreover, would I longer be considered a boy ? Should I not have a right to claim a position among acknowledged anglers ? Such thoughts as these passed through my brain rapid as electricity. How anxiously did I pray for success ! What advantage would I not have taken, if opportunity offered, to become the possessor of so noble a prize ! I even fear I might have been guilty of murder, and used a gaff or fish spear to accomplish my object, if those implements had been within reach, and I could have advantageously wielded them ! My trail fly had scarcely touched the water when a dull sullen plunge was made at it, and the dark broad back of a well-grown salmon showed itself.

Instinctively Avith the splash I struck, and with delight felt that I was fast in a foe whose claims to supremacy among the piscatorial tribe have never been disputed. The fish appeared scarcely to be aware of the dangerous game he was playing, as for some minutes it remained stationary, and one might have been doubtful of having him on but for the tremulous motion that passed up the line and rod to my hand. For several minutes the salmon remained in statu quo, but on my putting on a little addi tional pressure, my eyes were quickly opened, for with the speed of a racehorse making a Chiffney finish or the descent of a Avild duck to its feeding-ground in a gale of wind, the salmon started doAvn stream. I had but a hundred and forty feet of line on my reel, and unless I followed, I felt certain he would soon run it out and smash everything.

After the foe, down river, I started, flying, running, and jumping, over stones, gullies, and rocks, which, under ordinary circumstances, I would have thought and looked at a a second time before facing. In this manner at least two hundred and fifty yards of the roughest ground was passed at a quicker pace than I have ever been able to accomplish before or since. This spurt had evidently tired the fish, although, if he could only have known how much worse was my state, he would have kept up the steam a little longer, as half a dozen strides would have fairly pumped me. But fortuna favct fortibus. The fish now changed his tactics, slackening his pace to a four mile-to-the-hour pace, keeping down deeper than previously. The opportunity was not lost to reel up all line I dared take in, and to get myself in preparation and breathing condition for the next heat.

One thing which makes salmon more difficult to handle than all other fish is the uncertainty of its movements ; you lose one through some new stratagem, and you make up your mind to be prepared to counteract it, when the next opportunity offers, but what is your surprise when directly the opposite are the dodges followed, so that by avoiding Scylla you run into Charybdis. A salmon is also a fish of very enlarged ideas. He appears to have a perfect disregard of distance ; and when he makes a start, if not stopped, he leaves the impression that he is off to the other side of the ocean or the Antipodes. My fish continued now sailing up and down, within fifteen or twenty yards, and keeping close to the bottom ; an insane idea struck me of having a good look at my beauty, and I put pressure on my rod (a very light, twelve-foot trout one), but without the slightest effect.

His weight was such, combined with his strength, that my tackle must have broken had I persisted. In moving along the precipitous bank my foot displaced a stone, which rolled into the river with a splash. The hint was evidently all that was wanted, and off my friend again went, with all his previous celerity ; but this run was not quite as long, and, as a little alteration in the pro gramme, the fish finished the burst by jumping three times out of the water, giving me a good opportunity of judging his weight and proportions ; and previous ex perience told me, from his contour, that it would well turn fifteen pounds. The two heats had done their work, or his lordship was in a more amiable state of mind, as, with care, I could now stop his course and keep him closer to the surface ; but an occasional angry dash of his tail warned me not to attempt too many liberties.

I kept my eyes on the alert for a piece of gravel-bank on which to coax him from his element, having dropped my landing-net in the excitement of the first race because it was too small ; but this was rather precipitate, for not more than half my work was over. Up and down I walked, gave line and took it in as opportu nity offered, and I began to think that I was more of a victim than my attache. Over forty minutes had I been playing my fish and taking the most violent exercise, undergoing at the same time the greatest mental excitement, and yet I was apparently as far from success as at the start. The only part of the river I could find where the bank sufficiently shelved to slide him ashore was on the other side, so across I went. These mountain brooks are treacherous things to wade ; from six inches of water, the next step you take may be to your neck, if not farther ; and if, when so agreeably situated, the enemy should take another fancy, and challenge you to a third heat, good-bye to all your hopes — your castles in the air would most ruthlessly be demolished.

After getting in up to my waist, I safely landed without accident, and, after one or two unsuccessful attempts, got my prey into shoal water, out of which, with a dexterous hoist Avith both hands, I transferred my victim to terra firma. My fatigue, exertion, and wetting were now all forgotten, and I fairly yelled with pleasure. Again and again I looked at him, and never tired admiring his gigantic and handsomely developed proportions. Many and many a time have I recalled that day, and remember with greater pleasure the killing of my first salmon than almost any sporting adventure in an adventurous life. Next year, with my parents, I removed to Ireland. Our residence was in the centre of a good hunting, shooting, and fishing county ; and as my education was supposed to be completed, I had nothing to do but enjoy myself.

Those were happy days. I can never forget them. With what pleasure did I exhibit to my dear old father the results of my exertions and skill ! how delighted did I feel on receiving his commendation ! And then, when my beloved mother would express uneasiness lest I should over-fatigue myself or catch cold, I would cast my arms around her, and kiss away all her alarms. Take my advice, young gentlemen : value and respect your parents while they are with you ; attend to their admonitions, for when it is the will of Providence to remove them, their place can never be refilled. Their solicitude is the result of pure unselfish affection, such as you will never find in the cold, pitiless, unfeeling world. But time fled on rapidly. I became fretful and un settled ; a desire to roam had taken possession of me ; no longer had small game the same attraction.

At night, in my dreams, tigers and bears howled around me ; at one moment, I had a hairbreadth escape ; next I shot single-handed the dreaded man-eater, till I became so discontented and uneasy that I shunned society, and kept entirely to myself.

Chapter II. My First Steeplechase

ABOUT this date I got into a sad scrape. A thoroughbred mare, which my father had possessed and ridden as his charger for many years, was the dam of a four-year-old colt, very handsome and valuable. This colt was the old gentleman's pet. Every day he visited it in the stable, and seldom without taking it a piece of bread or sugar. Several times I had been permitted to cross this horse, and once ride him with hounds. I soon found out that he was remarkably fast, and a very clever fencer. In our neighbourhood there lived a young fellow, a few years over my age, half gentleman, half jockey. As he was known to be a gambler, and not over-scrupulous in horse-flesh transactions, his character was not highly esteemed. With uneasiness my parents saw us often together, and I was repeatedly warned, though in vain, that such society would do me injury.

Returning on my pony one morning from the post town, I met the forbidden associate. He had been schooling a slashing-looking, big, raw-boned chesnut, and spoke enthusiastically of its performances. As a belt of good galloping grass-land stretched along the road, I asked him to show me how his new acquisition moved, upon which he gave the nag his head, and shook him into a three-quarter gallop. After traversing two or three hundred yards, he ran his mount at a wall at the end of the enclosure four feet high, or possibly more. The chesnut topped it cleverly, to the delight of his rider. " Wouldn't you like such a flyer in your stables ?" said he ; " he can beat any horse in the county, either on the flat or across country." Now, although there was no denying the excellence of the horse in question, I felt perfectly certain that my father's favourite, Sir Charles, with anything like proper allowance of weight for age, could run away from such an antagonist.

Nor did I hesitate to say so, which resulted in a challenge. At first, I declined, knowing that my father would not let me have Sir Charles for such a purpose ; but being unmercifully chaffed, up to the verge of insult, I accepted the proposal. The amount of the stakes was a mere trifle, at the same time as large a sum as my small purse would allow, and, upon being pressed over and over again to double the bets, I was obliged to confess with shame to my antagonist that I had no more money. That evening we met at a farmhouse, and arranged the distance, place, and date of the race. We selected the day on which my father was in the habit of going to a neighbouring city to draw his pay. Before the event C came off, I succeeded in obtaining permission, through my mother's intercession, to take Sir Charles out, -and each time I did so you may be sure he got a good breather.