Through Gasa Land, and the Scene of the Portuguese aggression, etc

Preface

. The claim that Portugal has made to the possession of Gasa Land is preposterous : that it be deemed the owner of Mashoona Land, is ridiculous. My reasons for saying so are that, it has only two ports along the sea-board of the first-mentioned, beyond the limits of Avhich it dare not go ; Avhile for permission to trade at Senna, Tete, and Zumbo, stations on the Zambesi river, it annually paid to the Suzerain of Mashoona Land — the Matabele King — a large subsidy, which, if not forthcoming at the stipulated date, was enforced by an army. Even under such unfavourable circumstances these trading posts might have flourished, but for the Portuguese being incorrigible slave-dealers, not only preying upon the population in their vicinity for compulsory domestic service, but yearly sending thousands and thousands to Brazil, and such other markets as could be found for the unfortunate captives. Even at the present day, slavery exists

PREFACE.

IV in all these out of the way, insignificant trading stations. The bondsmen are generally brought from north of the Zambesi, and entrapped by bodies of armed men, under the command of half-breeds, these expeditions being fitted out and subsidised by Portuguese merchants. The horrors that the un fortunates have suffered in their journeys down country can neither be imagined nor described. The perpetuation of the accursed institution of slavery is the desire of the Portuguese subjects resident in Austral Africa, and the Boers of the Transvaal ; hence their sympathy with each other. Since our late policy was to conclude a disgraceful peace with those descendants of the Dutch who form the population of the so-called South African Republic, they and the Portuguese have made common cause to oppose British interests in every possible way, and it is an ascertained fact that, but for the counsel and advice of the authorities at Pretoria, we should never have had the insolent pretensions of the Court of Lisbon made in reference to the Mashoona and Mocololo countries.

If actual hostilities should occur between us and these allies, many of our late rebellious subjects will be found fighting in the adverse ranks. The culpable partition

PREFACE.

. V osZululand, the destruction of Secocomie's tribe, the restrictions placed upon the Swazie race, combined with the recall and disgrace of the true patriot and able statesman, Sir Bartle Frere, have directly been the cause of the difficulties which we now have to face ; and I very much fear that the task before us will be found far more onerous than at present anticipated, for, blink the matter as we will, disloyalty is rampant all over South Africa, not even excepting the Old Colony. Gold is to be found in great abundance in Manica and other adjoining parts of the Matabele country ; but care must be taken that the working of these valuable mines do not fall into the hands of unprincipled companies, as much misery will be inevitably entailed upon the natives if such should occur. Only lately I " interviewed " the directors of an embryo company, who coolly informed me that, they were about to work mines of the valuable metal in Manica and Mashoona Land, having obtained a permit to do so from the Portuguese Government.

Doubtless the new South African Company will be able to deal with such pretenders. If not, I should advise that Lubengulo, King of the Matabeles, be told off to settle with them ; after VI

PREFACE.

. he has done so, if I am not much mistaken, they will give little further trouble. It is impossible in this narrative to state the correct names of stations and rivers, for the in habitants chanoe them with the accession to office of every new chief. The positions of my camps, hunting grounds, and gold-fields are only approximately correct, for I had no instruments to enable me to lay down exactly their latitude and longitude. The reminiscences added at the termination of my journey " Through Gasa Land, and the scene of the Portuguese Aggression " are experiences which I think will give the reader a fair idea of the life of a hunter, and the people that dwell upon the western side of Matabele Land, familiarly designated as the " Hight Veldt." Parker Gillmore (" Ubique ") :' Land and Water," 58, Pall Mall, S.AV.

CONTENTS. Chapter I. PACES The Start. A South African Coaster ... ... i — 4 Chapter II. Our Zulus. Buffaloes killed. Our Batteries ... 5 — 10 Chapter III. Great A'ariety of Game. Elephants. A Perplexing Position ... ... ... ... ... ... 11 — 16 Chapter IV. A Dangerous Situation. Crocodiles ... ... ... 17 — 20 Chapter V. A Gun set. Snakes. A Forehead Shot. Bad Shooting ... ... ... ... ... ... 21 — 2S Chapter VI. A Mangy Hyæna. A. Free Fight. Ivory Trading... 29 — 33 Chapter VII. The Mantatees. Skilful Spooring. Formidable Bush 34 — 38 Chapter VIII. Game in Sight. A Grand Old Man. Hunted ... 39 -44 CONTENTS. VIII Chapter IX. PACKS A Disagreeable Experience. A Java Saurian. An Outcry in Camp ... ... ... ... •■• 45 — 5° Chapter X. Hippopotami. A Precious Drink. Nervousness. Oh! what a Surprise ... ... •■■ ... 51 — 57 Chapter XI.

A Bonne Bouche. Cruel AArork. An Unexpected Charge. Half-a-pint of Nectar 58— 63 Chapter XII. An Exciting Night. A Weird Situation. The Irrepressible. A Mother's Boy ••• 64 — 69 Chapter XIII. A Dark Night. A Ludicrous Scene. A Great Naturalist. Leopards. A Summary Proceeding 70 — 77 Chapter XIV. Giraffes. A Black Cobra. Gordon Cumming. The Rhinoceros Bird. Ready for the Fray .. . ... 78 — 85 Chapter XV. My Left Barrel. The Second Dish. Laid by the Heels. Time an Object. A Fine Race. Riding down Giraffe. AA'ho missed ? ... ... 86 — 99 Chapter XVI. Weapons. Proper Charges, Sympathetic Music. A Midnight Visitor ... ... ... ... ... 100 — CONTENTS. IX Chapter XVII. PAGES The Cyclone. Drowned out. Zulus as Soldiers ... 106 — no Chapter XVIII Dillon's Departure. Fishing. A Novel Capture. An Invalid Companion ... ... ... ... in — 118 Chapter XIX.

A Crafty Old Buffalo. AVhere to Aim. A Pet Crane. A Formidable Reptile. Sight or Scent 119 — 127 Chapter XX. Not Unattractive Harmony. Christianising the Natives. The Death Bed. Pursuit of the Man-eater ... ... 128—133 Chapter XXI. A Trying Search. Carrion Feeders. Funeral Service. A Truce to Moralising ... ... ... ... 134 — 139 Chapter XXII. Tropical Flora. Sun-birds. Ourebi and Duyker. AVeaver-birds. Good Luck ... ... ... 140 — 148 Chapter XXIII. A Narrow Escape. Dangerous Attendants. Native Carelessness. Order and Cleanliness ... ... 149 — 156 Chapter XXIV. Trip to the Lagoon. Sloane's Rhinoceros. A Rebellious Infant ... ... ... ... ... 157 — X CONTENTS. Chapter XXV. PAGES An Enchanting Scene. Large Mushrooms ... ... 163 — 166 Chapter XXVI. An Uncommon Pet. Two Marauders. An Accident. No Surrender 167 — 173 Chapter XXVII.

An Unwilling Capture. A Spoilt Child. Vultures and their Prey 174—177 Chapter XXVIII. The Soothing Pipe. Lonely. A Black Child ... 178—182 Chapter XXIX. A Satanic Yell. A Wonderful Tale. A Sturdy Ox 183—188 Chapter XXX. Once more Afloat. A Strange Bird. Surgeon-birds. Game to the Last... ... ... ... ... 189 — 195 Chapter XXXI. An Unfortunate Calf. The Lion's Food. Exercising my Patience. Camp Comforts ... ... ... 196 — 201 Chapter XXXII. Floating down Stream. Suckled by a Lioness. Building the Raft... ... ... ... ... 202 — CONTENTS. XI Chapter XXXIII. PAGES A Life on the Ocean \V7ave. An Error in Natural History. A Happy Past... ... ... ... 207 — 212 Chapter XXXIV. Robbing a Crocodile's Nest. Maternal Affection of Crocodiles. Home, Sweet Home. The Great Mashoona Race. Subsidies to the Matabele King ... ... ... ... .. ... 213 — 222 Chapter XXXV.

Game worthy of a Sportsman's Skill. A Dangerous Mother. Gold! Gold! ... .. ... ... 223 — 227 Chapter XXXVI. My Black Baby. A Child's Pluck. The Portuguese as Tenants. Slavery and its Results ... . 228 — 234 Chapter XXXVII. A Discovery in Natural History. Preparations for a Start. Dillon's Prowess 235—239 Chapter XXXVIII. A Rat Hunt. A Fortunate Escape ... ... 240—241 Chapter XXXIX. On the Line of March. Peculiarities of the Tetze Fly. A Land of Promise for Emigration. Treatment of the Natives. Native Ingenuity .. 242—249 CONTENTS. Chapter XL. pages A Grand Country. The Food Supply. Bad Shooting. Gluttony at the Mansion House. Abundant Spoor of Game. A Pugnacious Old Cow. A Veteran Soldier. Portuguese Tabooed. Ancient Stone AVorks. Rejoin Dillon. Livingstone's Description of Tete. Tete and its Environs.

Slavery. Coal. Convict Soldiers .. . 250 — 280 Life on the Hight Veldt and Country AVest of Matabele Land ... ... ... ... ... 281 Hunting Favourites in Austral Africa 291 A Hottentot Patriot ... ... ... ... ... 319 Female Heroism ... ... ... ... ... ... 329 Belief in Ghosts ... ... ... ... ... ... AND The Scene of Portuguese Aggression.

Chapter I. The Start

My first experience of big game shooting in South Africa I am not likely to forget, although it occurred some years ago, for, let me tell the reader, it was not sport at all, but the most harassing, trying work, without break or cessation ; and it would have, had it continued for any length of time, certainly made Jack a dull boy, or driven him stark, staring mad, and sent him into a premature grave. Shooting and hunting are delightful amusements when you have food in abundance and rest at night, but when you have a scarcity of both and no shelter, and often a most malarious climate, then I say most emphatically " the game is not worth the candle." u The exploits of Gordon Cumming, Andersson, Sir Cornwallis Harris, and other mighty Nimrods had created within my bosom an unquenchable desire to become their rival ; but, alas ! my purse was far from a long one, so, instead of marching into the interior of the country " with all the pomp and cir cumstance of war," in the way of waggons, horses, hounds, and innumerable attendants, I had to pursue my game on foot with what natives I could pick up as associates, and sleep upon the open veldt or under the spreading forest, with the heavens for my canopy, and mother earth for my mattress.

However, I consoled myself that my knowledge of field sports, particularly in elephant hunting — for I had shot several of these animals in Ceylon — would make up for these drawbacks ; but never, as in this instance, was the adage of " counting your eggs before they are hatched " so thoroughly verified. Few men were ever blessed with a better consti tution than I possessed at the age of twenty-five years. Moreover, I was, at that period of my life, as hard as nails ; could walk from morning till night, day after day without fatigue, and, on a push, run a mile or more without having to cry " Bellows to mend." I never was very fast on foot, it is true, but what I lacked in speed I made up in staying power. Such was the state of my affairs, bodily and financially, when I found myself in Natal, prepared to go forth and do battle with the wild beasts of the A SOUTH AFRICAN COASTER. 3 earth.

The hotel at which I put up Avas the resort of numerous elephant hunters, who made an annual visit into Zululand for skins and ivory. These gentry had wonderful stories to tell of their exploits, which added only fuel to the fire that was burning within me. While gathering what information I could pick up about the interior, I met two gentlemen emulated by the same desires as myself, and situated in the same way in respect to I argent. There is no harm in mentioning their names — more particularly as I can assert that two better, more genial, and Mark Tapley-like chums I never had — for they have long joined the vast majority. Selwin was quiet, unassuming, and courageous ; Dillon was fiery and impulsive, but generous to an excess. The first would have made a model clergy man if his heart had been in his work ; the latter the beau ideal of a light caA^alry officer.

With these I took counsel, and without dissent it was resolved that we should break new ground in our projected shooting trip, and proceed to the north of Zululand. A dirty, ill-found, and worn-out little top-sail schooner was in Durban harbour ; her destination was Delgoa Bay, and in her we determined to ship. Her appearance did not promise well for comfort or sea-going qualities ; but we argued that the passage was very short, and that if she had kept afloat to b such a venerable age she was not likely to go to pieces on this voyage. In both these opinions we were correct, but the question has often since arisen in my mind, why did this wretched craft not go ashore or founder ? I can only ask why? Her skipper — I think his name was Drake — appeared to have no idea of taking an observation, so consequently hugged the land, seldom, or never, losing sight of it, while the craft's gear was everlastingly giving way.

The weather was not really bad ; still, we had a stiff breeze, and as our schooner was very light, it may be imagined how the little vessel jumped about on the anything but placid Indian Ocean. Moreover, a more inutile crew never hauled on a brace, and never were at hand when wanted to do so ; so Selwin, who had great yachting experience, and I, who had much boating knowledge, not figuratively, but literally did all the work of the vessel. But let me skip over the dangers by sea, and the horrors we encountered from cockroaches and other gruesome and uncanny beasts by night. In due course of time we landed at Lorenzo Marquez, the vilest, filthiest, and most deadly place to white men I know of, in all this habitable world. We arrived in the healthy season ; I should like to ask what it can be in the sickly period. The slob which surrounds the village, and mangroves that grow upon it, seemed to fairly' reek with fever.

Chapter II. Our Zulus

After as much interference as petty Portuguese officials only know how to give, we shook the dust off our feet and departed, mind, on foot. This we should not have been able to do as expeditiously as we did, but for a piece of luck. We had scarcely landed when a Zulu accostedus with the extensive English vocabulary of "How do?" He brought another natiAre of the reassuring name of " Sunday," who spoke our language intelligibly. From him we learned that he had been in the employ of Mr. Leslie, of Natal, and that he would undertake ser vice ; further, that he could bring with him some of his countrymen. Sunday was as good as his word ; in half an hour he paraded before us eleven as likely recruits as ever took the Queen's shilling. There was not a word of haggling as to pay, &c. ; all were ready to start there and then, for each man had his kit with him — rather a mysterious kit, for it was remarkable from its being invisible.

I learned afterwards that these poor fellows had got stuck down here and were literally starving ; what was the reason of this I did not learn, but their misfortune was the luckiest thing imaginable for us, otherwise I do not believe we should ever have left Lorenzo Marquez by the land route. At that time no domestic animal of any description could come down from the Transvaal to Delgoa Bay, for the simple reason that the intervening country between the two swarmed with tetze fly, an insect whose bite is alike deadly to horse, ox, dog, or donkey, the Avild game and man alone appearing impervious to its attacks. The country between the coast and the so-called South African Republic then swarmed with buffalo, in the dung of which, these pests of the explorer and hunter bred. The Portuguese call this insect the elephant fly, supposing it was produced in the ordure of the elephant ; this is now well known to be a mistake.

The labour we encountered for the first ten days' tramp, with the exposure and scantiness of provisions we suffered from, was enough to break the hearts of any human beings but Zulus. They had their loads of about forty pounds each, led the way all day, made our night fires, ate with gratitude what food we could spare them, and slept with a single and very sieve-like blanket alone around them, but never a murmur escaped their lips. Truly they are a grand race, far, far superior to any indigenous people I ever met. Hitherto we had been following native or wild beast paths through a tropical forest or intricate marshy river beds ; new we struck the edges of spurs BUFFALOES KILLED. 7 of hills, offshoots from the Bombo Mountains, where extensive open glades were encountered. Our course, then, was altered from north-west to due north, and four days after we reached a river, now called the Saabin.

The country was simply lovely ; above us and to the left hand rose rangse after ranee of hills, as attractive as those of Malvern, while in the other direction stretched what appeared one unbroken forest of tropical timber. From the quantity of spoor and its variety, there was the most confirming evidence that we had arrived in a hunters' elysium ; nor were we long in putting the place to the test, for meat we wanted, and that badly. Sunday was a good tracker ; by his skill he soon recognised the eAadence of the presence of buffalo, and that their sanctuary was a dense growth of reeds of several acres in extent that margined the stream. Like an able general his plan of campaign was at once formed ; he, with half a dozen of his fol lowers, were to go up wind and return down it to start the game, while we, perdu, took our positions to leeward.

The device answered to perfection, and two cows were killed. More buffalo could have been slaughtered if we had desired to add to the carnage, for there was not less than a hundred head of these magnificent game brutes turned out of their resting-place, where, doubtless, they had been en joying their siesta, as the hour was mid-day. I Avill pass over this hunt, as I want to get on to the elephants, with no further details than stating that one of the victims gave chase to a boy, and would doubtless have accomplished his death but for the agility he displayed in avoiding her charges. This exciting scene was continued for two or three minutes, when Selwin terminated it by a splendid shot at fifty yards, which sent the pursuer head over heels, as complete a somersault as ever a rabbit per formed with a charge of No. 6 through its fore quarters at short range.

How this exciting affair occurred is worthy of note, for its narration may be the means of saving others from putting themseh'es in such a dangerous predicament. Dillon knocked over this cow, and to all appearance killed her. The young Zulu, who was close at hand, rushed up to the prostrate animal to blood his assegai. The first prick seemed to imbue the prostrate beast with new life, for in a moment she was on her legs, and in full pursuit of her assailant. The same thing happened to me in after years. On the Crocodile River, Cigar, my old henchman, shot a gemsbok. It fell only a short distance in iront of me. It was a splendid animal, so I, without thought, went up to it and touched it. Whew ! in a moment it was on its legs and charged. In the hurry and unexpectedness of the rush I fired both barrels, and missed with each, and I have ever since OUR BATTERIES. 9 believed that it Avould have fared badly with me had not my attendant put in a lucky shot.

Moral. — - Never go up to big game unless you are certain that they are dead. Here we remained two days making biltong of our meat, for we had at least fifty more miles to travel before we reached the country where Sunday ex pected elephants to be abundant, and not alarmed by hunters. So I will take this opportunity of describ ing my battery, both of which were muzzle-loaders and 12-bore. First, a shot gun, which threw a ball very well up to fifty yards, but was too light for heavy charges ; secondly, a two-grooved rifle, weighing about ten pounds. With light charges, say three to three and a half drachms of powder, it was an accurate weapon, but when six were substituted, the less said about its precision the better. I soon dis covered that light charges were absolutely useless against Arery large game, so, nolens volens, had to adopt the heavy.

There was one advantage about this weapon — it Avas bound to do execution somehow, for, if it did not knock the object over it was aimed at, it was likely to send the firer to grass, or at all events, badly wing him. I had no alternative but to use this beast of a "shooting iron," and, as may be well imagined, I always did so with fear and trembling. My com panions' arms were identical in calibre, only Dillon had a smooth-bore rifle instead of a grooved, and the handiness and efficiency of this weapon up to one hundred yards caused me, I fear, often to break the commandment, " Thou shalt not covet, &c." There is no doubt that from my experience in this trip I formed the conclusion to Avhich I have ever since steadfastly adhered, that for bush shooting, where the ran^e seldom or never exceeds one hundred yards, the smooth-bore excels the grooved Aveapon.

Chapter III. Great Variety Of Game

On the second morning after our introduction to buffalo, a long string of elephants deployed past us at a distance of half a mile. They were travelling very rapidly, and Sunday assured us that there was no use going after them, as they would not stop till they reached the flats, near where an affluent river runs towards the Limpopo. His advice was willingly taken, for none of us were very anxious for more exercise than was absolutely necessary, the reason being* that for three nights neither of us had had a wink of sleep from the number and audacity of the lions that surrounded our camp. We had no kraal for protection ; only the most flimsy of grass huts to lie in, while the natives slept on the ground around the fires. Thus we were open to attack at any mcment. Anyhow, we had abundance of fuel to help to keep things straight.

The last night of our stay the anticipated crisis seemed to have arrived, for soon after midnight three or four of the natives rushed into our shanty, and the others took to the trees. The fire at the moment was burning brightly, and we all distinctly saw a lioness standing on her hind legs, with one fore foot extended upwards and leaning against a tree, endeavouring with her other paw to hook down the meat we had placed for safety in its forks. Selwin and I fired at her, but without effect. Our reception, however, caused her to depart ; but in half-an-hour more the vixen was back at her old game. Dillon and I now gave her a salute. The fire had blazed up a little better at the moment, so our chance of shooting correctly was increased, the result being that her ladyship got both balls, where we could not say, but, much to our relief, she departed, not to return.

Sunday vowed if we hit her she would charge into the hut. Why she did not do so goodness only knows. My later experience has taught me that such a course is usually to be expected from a wounded lion. A tributary river here reaches the Saabin, in a succession of long, almost currentless reaches, flowing though rich alluvial soil, with generally deep precipitous banks. Where these do not exist the stream is margined by dense, lofty, inter laced reeds ; along the edge of the water is a heavy growth of timber ; outside that is as fine a veldt — here and there studded with a few trees and occasional patches of brush — as could be found for hunting purposes in any part of Africa. In my opinion this portion of the country does not get burnt up like the higher veldt of the Transvaal in summer, but remains green throughout the year — ELEPHANTS. 13 hence, but for the tetze fly, it would be an inex haustible grazing ground for horned cattle.

Our camping place was the beau ideal of what such an establishment should be, for we had our backs against a precipitous wall of rock, and abund ance of water close at hand. As soon as the boys had finished their pipes and rested for a short time, they turned to with a will, and made a half-circular fence around our position, that was high enough and strong enough to keep at defiance any midnight marauders. Moreover, from the reeds they con structed a hut for us to sleep in that was not only fairly comfortable, but roomy. Game was in this vicinity very abundant, all the larger kinds, includ ing giraffes, only excepting elephants, having been seen within the last hour's tramp. However, this grand animal's presence was made known soon after supper, by the passage of a troop to some water not over a quarter of a mile off.

There must have been upwards of a hundred in this drove, for, as they generally travel on such occasions in single file, they took nearly twenty minutes to pass. Their drinking place was above us, or further up stream, for tunately, or otherwise they would have got our wind and departed for new pastures, so we anticipated grand sport on the morrow. At sunrise Sunday informed us that he had been to the ford, for there is a drift over the river close by, and that the elephants were feeding across it, so, Avithout water-bottles — no need of those trouble some things here— and plenty of biltong, biscuit, and tobacco in our pockets, we started in pursuit. Our tactics Avere to spoor the herd from the drift ; but, if after we found the game and got separated, Sunday was to remain with Selwin, Umpiqua — a cross-eyed, ugly little beggar, but a good hunter — go with Dillon, and a jovial, handsome savage, that I had christened Jim, for brevity, accompany me.

From fear of disturbing the elephants, the greatest quiet prevailed when wading across ; but all got over safely, as Dillon feelingly said, " without even a nibble, let alone a bite," crocodiles being numerous in these waters. The trail was easy enough to follow, for it was as wide as a garden walk, although a little more irregular in surface. One of the Zulus kept about a hundred yards in front of the party to give us due warning of the proximity of game, which he did after half-an hour's tramp. Then this wily savage stopped, and indicated with his hands for us to hurry up. Such a request did not require repeti tion. On reaching him, he simply pointed, with the air of an emperor, to the eastward, and, true enough, there were the objects of our search, and it only now remained for us to kill them.

My com panions I will now leave to pursue their own devices, so will confine myself to my experiences. Dropping behind my friends, I passed silently A PERPLEXING POSITION. 15 but rapidly to their right flank, hoping that a shot would not be fired till I had singled out my beast. First I came across a cow, but her duffing little tusks did not suit my cravings for big ivory, so I passed her unseen ; then another cow, and, thirdly, a tuskless cow, generally accredited the most vicious and consequently dangerous of her race, presented themselves, but they were quite unaware of my presence, so I continued still taking ground to the right. But my forbearance was soon rewarded, for in front of me, and not over forty yards distant, stood a fine bull, with tusks of at least sixty pounds apiece, and such a lot of ivory meant a lump of money, so I determined to possess them.

The poor beast was feeding daintily, that is, it appeared to be fastidious in its taste, for many of the boughs that it pulled down it afterwards rejected. Between me and the game was a fallen tree, the roots of which had torn up quite a wall of earth ; could I but reach it, my shot would be fired within twenty yards of the object of my aim. I resolved to make a try for it. Jim, with my second gun, was at my heels, and everything promised well. From the shelter of one tree to that of another I successfully glided without being observed. Then there was a trifling gap ; this I covered without being observed, and in front of me was the giant, but his position was such that not a single vulnerable point was exposed. For a couple of minutes at least I remained in this annoying predicament, puzzling my brain over to know what artifice I could employ to make the elephant change his position, but Avithout coming to a satisfactory conclusion.