Notes of travel in south-western Africa

Preface

T N the preface to Andersson's recent work, " The Lion -*- and the Elephant," edited by myself, it was stated that, if well received by the public, I should probably give out other of his Memoranda in my possession, relating to his more recent Travels ; and as the abovenamed work has proved a sifccess, I now proceed to fulfil my promise.

Owing, however, to severe illnesses, brought on by the hardships Andersson underwent during his early travels ; to wounds inflicted by wild beasts, and to his broken fortunes, which compelled him to devote the greater part of his time to mercantile, instead of, as heretofore, to scientific pursuits, he was in a great degree prevented from following up his explorations in unknown lands, and hunting the Elephant, and other denizens of the forest, as in by-gone days. Hence the reader of these pages must not expect to find in them quite so many stirring adventures by flood and field, as are recorded in his earlier publications, viz. : " Lake

IV PREFACE.

N garni," and ■ ' The Okavango River." Had he, however, lived to explore the countries to the north of the River Cunene (at present comparatively little known in England), as was his full purpose, he would, no doubt, have had much to narrate of both a new and interesting nature ; but, unhappily, on his reaching the banks of that stream the hand of death was upon him, an'd a few days afterward he ceased to exist.

This volume, nevertheless, contains matter that it is hoped will afford both interest and amusement to the reader. Among the rest, his graphic description of the great battle between the " Namaquas " and the" Damaras," the latter of whom he commanded in person, and in which he was so severely w r ounded as to be rendered a cripple during the remainder of his life.

Then again, his account of the " Ovambo," a primitive tribe, bordering on the Portuguese settlement of Benguela, is well deserving of perusal.

His remarks, also, on the South Africa Missionaries, whom no traveller had better opportunities of becoming intimately acquainted with than Andersson, will, I feel assured, interest not a few.

The like may be said as to his observations on the so called "lung-sickness" which annually carries off so many animals, both wild and tame, in South Africa ; (this the rather, as he himself was not only possessed of vast herds of horned cattle, but was a great sufferer by the epidemic in question — having lost two thousand

PREFACE. V

head — and, in consequence, his remarks will carry due weight with them), for as this disorder may not improbably bear some affinity to the " Rinderpest," which of late years has so ravaged England and other European countries, it is very possible some useful hints, as to the proper treatment of the latter, may be gained from learning the remedies usually had recourse to for the " lung-sickness " in Damaraland and adjacent regions.

The chapter on "Game Birds" of the country will also probably prove acceptable to the reader, of such, at least, as are either sportsmen or naturalists. Of other African birds I have not ventured to speak, for the reason, that Mr. John Henry Gurney has recently published an abridgment of Andersson's great projected work — the " Avi Fauna of South Africa " — under the title of " The Birds of Damaraland," to which valuable publication I beg to refer the ornithologist for information respecting the rest of the feathered tribe.

In conclusion, I would add that, among numerous other papers, Andersson left behind him " Notices of several of the Quadrupeds indigenous to Damaraland and neighboring countries." These " Notices " it was my intention, at first, to insert when opportunity offered in present work ; but on reflection it struck me that such constant references to matters relating to Natural History would greatly have tended to distract the attention of the reader from the Narrative itself, and I have there-

VI PREFACE.

fore thought it best — with the exception of a single chapter on the Leopard and its congeners — to exclude them (the " Notices ") altogether; though not without hopes, at some future time, of submitting them to the public.

THE EDITOR.

Chapter I

The explorer transformed into the proprietor of a large trading establishment — Important journey — Wilhelm Zwartbooi — David Christian — Alarm caused by lung-disease in cattle — Disputed right of way — Damaraland traders — Stopped on our journey by Namaquas — Courage and determination of my wife — Cattle-lifting — Pursuit of the robbers — Caught in a trap — F. Green's coolness in danger — Insolent messages — Sale of my cattle I

Chapter II

Jonker Afrikaner — Visit to David Christian — Arrogant conduct of a Hottentot — Ruffianly attack — Fatal error committed by my opponent — Tragical incident — In the presence of death — My wife's courage — Reputation of the author in Africa — Daniel Cloete — Inquiry into the death of my Hottentot assailant — Decision — Return to Otjimbingue 14

Chapter III

Game birds of South Africa — The Kori bustard — Rufous-crested bustard — Rupell's bustard — Cape Knorhaan bustard — Cape guinea-fowls — ■ Great travellers — The chasse — Swainson's Francolin — Double-banded sand-grouse — Variegated sand-grouse — Harlequin quail — Little quail — Painted snipe — Common snipe — Jack snipe and woodcock 28

Chapter IV

Vultures — Power of scenting their prey at a distance — Sir Samuel Baker's theory — Extraordinary field of vision — Waterton's theory —

Vlll CONTENTS.

Andersson's theory — The Marabou stork — The ostrich — New species — Chase of ostriches by Namaquas — Pursuit of ostriches on horseback — Hottentot expedient for carrying off ostrich eggs. ... 47

Chapter V

Harassing period of my life — Kamaherero and his tribe — Power of the Namaquas — Wretched condition of the enslaved tribe — Rising of the Damaras — Visit of Philippus, son of a Damara chief — Upright conduct of the Damaras^ — Rumors — Treachery of the Namaquas — Alarm at Otjimbingue — Battle and victory of the Damaras — Death of Rev. Mr. Kleinschmidt 60

Chapter VI

Flight of the Namaquas — Alarming rumors — Frederick Green — Plan to surprise the Hottentot head-quarters — A treacherous European — Spoil taken from the Namaquas — Return of the victors to Otjimbingue — Thrown into arrears — Attack of ophthalmia — Dangerous trust — Sad calamity — The cry of vengeance — Victoria Falls 74

Chapter VII

An Irish Munchausen — Rehoboth — Preparations for our expedition against the Namaquas — Wilhelm Zwartbooi — Conflicting accounts of the position of the enemy — Last acts before the fight — A disappointment — Severe example — Daring act committed by Hottentots — Successful flank movement — Severely wounded — Precarious position 87

Chapter VIII

After the battle. — Immense capture of sheep and cattle — Folly and incapacity of the Damaras — The Rehobothians — Rev. Mr. Kleinschmidt — Arrival at Barmen missionary station — Rev. Mr. Hahn — Sufferings from my wound — Rev. Mr. Kleinschmidt's change of station — The Rehobothians attacked by the Namaquas — Sufferings of the unfortunate tribe 106

CONTENTS. IX

Chapter IX

Seventy of my wound — Arrival of my wife — Long and painful illness at Otjimbingue — Study of ornithology — Relations with Baines — Discovery of a new species of falcon — Desci-iption of Andersson's perm— Machserhampus Alcinus Other specimens — Difference of two species.

Chapter X

Proceed to Cape Town — Surgical advice — Cape Town Museum and Library — Mr. Layard — Avi-fauna of Damaraland — Axel Ericson — Accumulation of misfortunes — Propose to return to Damaraland — Return to Otjimbingue — Wild and desolate aspect of the country — The Welwitchia , 127

CHAPTER XL

Defeat of Hottentots — Fall of a lawless marauder — Letter to the editor of the " Cape Town Mail and Advertiser" — Escape from shipwreck — Samuel, the Freebooter — Mr. Green's advance to the Cunene — Renewed disturbances — Great loss of produce — A new way to pay old debts — Letter to Jan Jonker — Jacobus Boyce 136

Chapter XII

Scarcity of wild beasts near Otjimbingue — The leopard — Its resorts and food — Manner of surprising its prey — Wonderful bound — Accident to Axel — African boer — Out of the frying-pan into the fire — Andersson's adventure — Temerity of the leopard — The chasse — Dogs — The chetah — How it hunts — The wild cat — Andersson's letter . .152

Chapter XIII

Departure of elephant-hunters for Ondonga — Accident to Andersson— Departure for Ovampo Land — Arrival at Jacongava — Omapjee — Wild dogs and koodoo — Remarkable flowers — Huge snake killed — A gemsbok shot — Wagon stuck fast in the mud — Bushmen come to bivouac — Arrival in Ovampo Land — Escape of Andersson's people from Samuel 180

X CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV

Chykongo — Appearance of the country — Description of the homestead — The chief's werft — The soil — Agriculture — Times of scarcity — Fruit trees — Minerals — The flora and fauna — Ichthyology — Domestic animals — The inhabitants — Their amusements — Religion and superstition — Attack on Mr. Hahn's party 204

Chapter XV

Lung-sickness — Symptoms of the disease — Inoculation said to be a preventive — The virus : — Inoculation not always effective — Cure of the disease — Periods at which horses are liable to be attacked — Flesh of infected cattle — Refutation of Dr. Livingstone — Origin of the disease unknown 226

Chapter XVI

Ovampoland — Missionary labor — Rev. Mr. Hahn's reception — Prospects of success — Difficulties to contend with — Civilization and Evangelization — Deceitfulness of the native character — Labors of the missionary — Enthusiasm in Germany 236

Chapter XVII

Prevalence of sickness — Despatch of ivory to Otjimbingue — Departure of elephant hunters — Study of Portuguese — Attack of fever — Birds shot by natives with arrows — Goat carried off by a hyena — Ophthalmia — Samuel attacked by the Damaras — New species of stork — Visit to Chykongo — Dr. Livingstone — A thief caught in the act 249

Chapter XVIII

Start for the River Cunene — Arrival at Nauma's werft — Ugly women — Extraordinary spectacle — Author's life endangered — Singular hairdressing — Hyenas troublesome — The iron mine — Typandeka's hospitality — A great misfortune — Reach the Cunene — Altercation with ferry-men 278

CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XIX

Premonitions of death — Axel Ericson's account of Andersson's last days — Extreme sufferings — Death of the traveller — Notice of his career and death in the " Cape Town Mail " — General regret in Sweden — Recognition of his merits as a Discoverer — In Memoriam 308

Chapter I

The explorer transformed into the proprietor of a large trading establishment — Important journey — Wilhelm Zwartbooi — David Christian — Alarm caused by lung-disease in cattle — Disputed right of way — Damaraland traders — Stopped on our journey by Namaquas — Courage and determination of my wife — Cattle-lifting — Pursuit of the robbers — Caught in a trap — F. Green's coolness in danger — Insolent messages — Sale of my cattle.

WHEN I last appeared before the public in my narrative entitled " The River Okavango," I had become a complete invalid through many months of distressing illness, and consequently quite unfit for any serious exertions. The spirit for exploration and discovery, nevertheless, was far from extinguished in me, but the power to execute failed me, and I determined to await events quietly until such time that my health was restored.

About this period the Walwich Bay Mining Company, whose operations in this country I had at one time conducted, finding that they were carrying on an unprofitable business, determined to wind up their affairs, and to offer their large establishment for sale. They not unnaturally turned to me as a probable purchaser. It is true I had neither the inclination nor the means to work the mines, but it struck me that their head-quarters, Otjimbingue — a place so often mentioned in my former works — might be most advantageously turned to account as a trading station, being very centrally and conveniently situated for such a purpose. Moreover, the company possessed a large number of cattle, chiefly well-trained wagon-oxen, a most essential item toward the success of such a venture as I contemplated. Finally, I thought this kind of life, which, while in a great measure sedentary, had a good deal of desultory activity attached to it, would suit me while recruiting my shattered constitution. But the risk was very great. In the first instance I was aware that Jonker Afrikaner looked upon the company's property with a covetous eye — in fact he had openly declared that they had no right to part with what he considered his own ! And I am sorry to say he was backed in this unrighteous assertion by more than one European, who thus thought to serve their own ends. Secondly, that most fearful scourge, the " lung-sickness " (of which more hereafter), had just made its appearance in Damaraland, and was playing sad havoc among the live stock of the inhabitants. But notwithstanding all these serious drawbacks, I began to entertain the. project; and quickly making my calculations, I came to the conclusion that, even under very unfavorable circumstances, I could hardly fall to do well. Accordingly I closed with the company's offer, and thus somewhat unexpectedly found myself the proprietor of a large establishment — in short, I, who had recently been an exp^rer, became converted into a

RIGHT OF ROAD DISPUTED. 3

merchant. The step proved ultimately my ruin, though brought about in a way little anticipated, and without any particular fault on my part ; but I will not anticipate. Nor will I try the reader's patience by asking him to follow me through all the vicissitudes of a trader's experience in a barbarous country, but I will select such episodes of my life at this period as I think may fairly challenge the interest and attention of an indulgent public.

I had been settled about a year, not unprofitably, at Otjimbingue, when I found it necessary to try to dispose of some of the live stock 'acquired by my original purchase, as well as that afterward obtained in exchange. Unfortunately the " lung-sickness " had by this time acquired a wonderful repute among the tribes bordering on Damaraland to the south, which had as yet been spared this curse ; and it was currently believed that no person coming from my part of Africa would be permitted to pass through their territories with live stock, for fear of having their own also affected. However, as there had always been an acknowledged highway from time immemorial, and as the country was large enough to admit of a free passage to traders and travellers, without any particular danger or inconvenience to anyone concerned; and, above all, as the Europeans settled in Damaraland could not exist without a market for their product, which consisted almost solely of cattle and sheep, I felt it necessary to have the matter at once and forever decided ; and as I dared trust no one with this important mission, I determined to undertake the journey in person.

At this time I was on a ve'v r - : endly footing — in fact had always been so — with our nearest neighbors to the southward, a tribe of Namaquas under the chief Wilhelm Zwartbooi. I anticipated consequently little or no opposition in this quarter, a view which proved correct ; for after due representations had been made to my friends, and I have very little doubt also through the kind interposition of my esteemed friend their venerable missionary, the late Reverend Henry Kleinschmidt, permission to pass through their country was granted with promptitude and consideration. The real obstacle was a long way ahead of us, and lay principally with the people under the chief, David Christian, whose head-quarters were Bethany — a long-established missionary post.

My arrangements for the journey being completed, I set out with a fine troop of cattle and sheep, and proceeded for a considerable distance without any interference or molestation. At last, having passed the boundaries of my friends, we met with other people, who, though civil enough in their way, one and all gave us to understand that much further progress was Out of the question, and advised us strongly to retrace our steps. Several traders, with cattle, on the path which we were pursuing, having heard an exaggerated account of the state of health of our own herds, fled precipitately, thus making matters worse for us. When still several days' journey distant from the obnoxious chief, I determined to proceed ahead of my party, with a view of having our fears confirmed, or our hopes verified. I had apparently nothing to dread for my own cattle ; for though I certainly had had several cases of death occasioned by " lung-sickness," all symptoms of

ATTACKED BY DAVID CHRISTIAN. 5

this disease had long since disappeared. But even had my cattle continued affected, I did not think that the chief could have any right to stop my progress on a road, the use of which was sanctioned by immemorial custom.

I met the chief, and after I told him my story, permission to proceed was readily granted to me. I returned to my people in good spirits, thinking that all our difficulties were now happily at an end, but I had sadly reckoned without my host, as the sequel will shortly prove. In my company were several other traders from Damaraland, and of course in the same situation as myself, who usually journeyed a little ahead of me. One day, it seems, a large party of Namaquas on horseback, headed by David Christian in person, made their appearance, and peremptorily forbade their further progress ; they even went so far as to order some cattle to be slaughtered for their inspection. This proved nothing against my fellow-travellers, but a good feast to our foes — and probably it was meant to be so from the first ; but the enemy had evidently predetermined to stop us. When my turn came, I at first tried every argument that reason could suggest, and finding these unavailing, I told the chief plainly that nothing but his superior force should stop me. " Indeed," I fearlessly added, " were I but strong enough, I would try a conclusion with you that might prove unpalatable enough ; " at the same time laying my hand firmly on the handle of my revolver. The chief became exceedingly fierce and indignant at my resolute conduct, but Tquietly assured him that to get into a passion with me was useless, as I did not care one straw for him and his myrmidons, and that they failed utterly to intimidate me.

Of course, should he persist in refusing me a passage, circumstanced as I was, there was no alternative but to send back my cattle; but as for myself, I would go forward, and return next season strong enough, I hoped, to defy him and any force that he could oppose to me. At this his wrath knew apparently no bounds ; he swore, he stamped, he suddenly rose from his seat, and as suddenly reseated himself, trembling all the while like an aspen leaf with anger and excitement. But under all this frothy outburst of passion and assumed indignation, it was easy to see that my firm behavior had considerably intimidated him ; for he knew enough of me to feel certain that I would carry my threats into execution if within the range of possibilities. Indeed, he honestly acknowledged to poor Jonathan (of whom more presently) that he was in a " funk." " I thought at one time," he said, " that Mr. Andersson would have shot me ! " Thus ended our last inauspicious interview. I reached the Cape in safety, after a long and harassing journey, and lost no time in maturing my plans. I had fully made up mind to fight it out with the obnoxious chief, if necessary, and took measures accordingly. Among other things, I supplied myself with two small but handsome and serviceable brass fieldpieces — not so much for the sake of the execution I meant to do with them, as for the moral effect they were likely to produce on a semi-barbarous people, who had probably an exaggerated opinion of cannon. Some of my friends, it is true, thought this a most imprudent step, as it might tend to make the natives more obsti-

OFFER OF ESCORT. 7

nate and unaccommodating ; but I had fully calculated all the consequences, and the result justified the measure.

On my return to Damaraland, I found a number of my hunting friends and acquaintances congregated at Otjimbingue, partly awaiting my own return, and partly recruiting themselves for fresh exertions against the elephants. On hearing of my determination to force my way to the colony through the Namaquas, they came forward in a body to offer me their escort, deeming my own servants much too small a party for undertaking so dangerous an enterprise. I was somewhat reluctant to avail myself of their valuable services, inasmuch as their absence from their usual occupations would, in all probability, involve the loss of a whole season — to most of them an object of the utmost importance. At the same time, they were entirely dependent on me for their necessary supplies and creature comforts, and were fully aware that, unless I could bring my cattle speedily and safely to a market, they themselves would stand no chance of having their wants provided for. Their offer of assistance, therefore, though certainly most kind and considerate, was not altogether disinterested, and after due consideration I accepted their proffered help. But even with this opportune, and altogether unexpected, addition to my party, we mustered hardly twenty really serviceable guns, a mere cipher as compared with the many hundreds that were likely to be raised against us, should it be found necessary to have recourse to force, in order to open up the disputed passage. But I correctly estimated my own strength, and that of my apparently formidable enemy. Thus I felt certain that, when once fairly en route, many-tongued rumor would vastly exaggerate our real strength ; the names of some of my party were in themselves a host ; and lastly, not the least, I felt sure that my noisy brass friends could not fail to inspire a certain respect, if not awe — in short I felt pretty sure of success.

Everything being finally settled for our adventurous journey, we set out in high spirits. Each man was provided with a double-barrelled gun or rifle, a Colt's revolver, a pistol, and a stout hunting-knife. Most of the party had adopted a kind of uniform — scarlet and drab — and being all pretty well mounted, my escort made both a picturesque and martial appearance.

Apprehending considerable trouble and danger, I had decided on leaving my wife and child — then a mere infant — behind me at Otjimbingue ; but my wife having accompanied me a few days' journey on the way, we found each other's society so pleasant that, as the time for leave-taking approached, my brave little helpmate was determined to share with me every danger and trial. Having hastily consulted my companions upon the advisability of the step, she was allowed to have her own way, and we were thus spared a painful and long separation. The result justified our decision, and thus I had the inestimable boon of the company of my family during this long, dangerous, and harassing journey, extending, as it did, over a distance of upward of a thousand miles, through regions the most bleak and barren.

As on a former occasion, all went on smoothly for some days, only one incident occurring worthy of being

CATTLE CARRIED OFF BY THE TOPNAARS. 9

here recorded. We had just arrived at a Mr. S 's

house (the last European habitation we were likely to meet with for some months to come), and were enjoying ourselves so far as liberty, good cheer, fine weather, and happy spirits would allow, having in fact selected for our motto "Sufficient for the day is the evil thereof." In the midst of our rejoicings, the astounding news reached us that a considerable number of cattle belonging to our hospitable host had been carried off by a set of rascals living at no great distance, and who belonged to a tribe of Hottentots called Topnaars, the fellows in question acknowledging Jonker Afrikaner as their chief; but only nominally, for they did very much as they pleased, laying friend and foe alike under occasional contribution. In fact the tribe was enlarged and strengthened by a conglomeration of the most villainous and wretched scoundrels in the country. Any man outlawed from his own tribe was sure to meet with a hearty welcome from the Topnaars, who with their lawless associates were truly a savage crew.

Neither deeming it safe to absent myself from my own property and people, nor indeed essential to the success of the enterprise, I left it to my escort to pursue, and, if possible, recapture the lost cattle. But the undertaking proved a far more serious one than was at first anticipated, and might have resulted in the most serious consequences to myself and chattels, had there been less presence of mind and pluck among my brave volunteers.

The stolen stock was duly traced, but on account of the rocky and embarrassing nature of the ground traversed by the thieves, it was only late on the second day after the departure of my friends that they found themselves approaching the place to which the booty had been conveyed. They were quietly following on the spoor, when, suddenly turning the angle of a rock in an intricate passage along which they had been for some time unsuspiciously winding their way, they found themselves in full view of a wretched village, and were at the same moment challenged by at least fifty rascals completely hidden from view. Only a few women and children were visible about the huts, but, on looking toward the surrounding rocks whence the challenge had proceeded, they found them literally bristling with fire-arms, while they were unable to distinguish the form even of one of those in whose hands they were. On -finding themselves thus fearfully entrapped — for even their retreat was cut off — my friends honestly confessed that they experienced a feeling of horror, and had it been practicable would probably have beat a precipitate retreat ; but though they might have done so with honor, the muzzles of guns threateningly pointed at them from every nook and corner prevented them from attempting it with safety. The hesitation and trepidation, however, were only momentary, for finding escape impossible, the leader of the devoted little band, my brave friend F. Green, ordered his followers to dismount, and pulling out his pipe, coolly proceeded to fill and light it. This presence of mind in the face of imminent danger had the desired effect, and in a few minutes every volunteer was sending forth volumes of smoke from his clay bowl, thus hiding the temporary dismay by which they had been struck, and utterly dumbfounding the enemy by their temerity.

COURAGE AND DETERMINATION. II

Repeating their challenge not to proceed, the villains insolently demanded the cause of the presence of the strangers. This was explained, and intimation was at the same time conveyed that they were determined not to stir from the spot until the stolen cattle were given up. A terrible hubbub then ensued, and a few of the men appeared in view, brandishing their arms threateningly and gesticulating wildly; but the greater number of their guns remained pointed toward them, and in unpleasantly close proximity. The moments that followed were intensely exciting, my friends not knowing but that every second might be their last on earth ; they were so utterly helpless, a single false movement and they would inevitably have been ushered into eternity. Whatever courage they might have possessed, and there was no lack of that manly quality, availed them nothing, as their enemies remained concealed from view during the whole of a somewhat protracted parley. But to make a long story short, after endless questions, accompanied with menacing gesticulations and angry threats, the foe gave in, and not only restored the cattle they had purloined, but entertained their unwelcome visitors hospitably ! In journeying homeward in safety, with the recovered stock, there was not one among my escort who did not feel sincerely thankful for his narrow escape from destruction, at one time so imminent.

After this adventure nothing occurred for some time to disturb our peace, except when we encountered any of the friendly or neutral Namaquas, who jeered us on account of our determination to proceed, assuring us that David Christian with the whole of his tribe was waiting to dispute our passage at a certain intricate and dangerous point of the road. At last we actually met messengers sent by the chief in question to forbid peremptorily our further progress. We received from time to time several of these haughty and msolent messages, to all of which we quietly answered, " We are friendly disposed, and only require a road for our cattle now and henceforth, grant our reasonable demand and you will insure our gratitude," all the while steadily pursuing our course. At last a neutral chief, one of some note, came as ambassador to us on behalf of himself and his brother chief, through whose territories we desired to pass. Fortunately he was not only friendly disposed toward us and our cause, but a sensible mam who, after listening to our arguments, suddenly declared that he had been authorized by David Christian to grant our request in full should he deem it reasonable, and he would do so. I need not say that this happy termination of our troubles was hailed with the utmost satisfaction and joy by every one of my party, more particularly as it was in a great measure unexpected. It was certainly more favorable than any of us had dared to anticipate.