A tour around the world by General Grant. Being a narrative of the incidents and events of his journey

Front matter

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Preface

HE journey of General Grant around the world is one of the most important events of Modern History. There is no living man whose career can be compared with that of General Grant ; no soldier, since Napoleon I., has accomplished such great results. It is generally admitted that the victories of General Grant saved the great American Republic, and it is not surprising that all the world has done homage to the greatest military chieftain of the age. The splendor of General Grant's reception in the many countries through which he travelled was owing to his great fame as a soldier.

His journey was the most remarkable ever made by any human being. Wherever he went he was received by people and sovereigns with royal honors, and was in all respects the most honored traveller that ever accomplished the journey around the world. The distinguished American ex-President, though travelling as a simple citizen of the United States, has made the most remarkable journey in all recorded history, seeing more, and being more honored and admitted to closer confidence, by the rulers of mankind, than any individual who ever undertook to seek instruction or recreation by extensive travels through foreign lands. The whole journey was like a romance, and the countries through which General Grant travelled exerted

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themselves to show him all they have worth seeing. Who of crowned monarchs could have made the circuit of civilization with so many distinguished marks of honor ? Who of contemporary military men would have excited so much interest in all quarters of the globe ?

During the progress of his journey, the movements of General Grant were reported regularly in the various newspapers of the United States, and were followed closely by his fellow-citizens. So great was this popular interest that one of the leading journals of the country sent its most able correspondent to travel with him, and report the record of his daily life abroad. These reports, however, coming at intervals of greater or less extent, were naturally disconnected, and there is a universal and recognized demand for a connected and continuous narrative of this great journey, which shall give in a more extended form than was possible in newspaper correspondence, an account of General Grant's travels, and such information concerning the places he visited and the persons he met, as may be necessary to a proper understanding of the story. Such a work is offered to the public in the present volume, in which the movements of General Grant are related day by day from the time he left Philadelphia for Liverpool until his arrival at San Francisco.

The author has drawn from every source of information open to him. Being personally familiar with a portion of the route pursued by General Grant, he has drawn upon his own experience and impressions in describing it. He ha3 endeavored to include everything of interest or instruction to the reader in his narrative, while, at the same time, he has sought to avoid what was unnecessary or fatiguing.

The latter part of the work consists mainly of the letters written to The New York Herald by Mr. John Russell Young,

PREFACE. 2 r

who accompanied General Grant during portions of his travels, and was his constant companion during the Eastern tour. These letters are given as they appeared in the columns of The Herald, with the exception that parts of them have been omitted as possessing no special interest to the general reader. Wherever they are used due credit is given to Mr. Young and The Herald. The book -is simply what it professes to be — a narrative of General Grant's travels in foreign lands. It has no political significance. General Grant's journey possesses a deep interest to his countrymen of all parties. It would be singular indeed if his own countrymen failed to appreciate the unprecedented attentions and courtesies which he received in every part of the world to which the light of Christian or Mohammedan or heathen civilization has penetrated. It is in his person and in the honors bestowed upon him that our country and its great destiny have first been adequately recognized by the widely distributed branches of the human family. His own countrymen may feel a justifiable pride in a career which has attracted such universal homage, and the hearty welcome given him by the people of the Pacific coast upon his return to his own land, makes it apparent that the nation does not undervalue the compliment which so many foreign countries have paid to our Republic in the person of one of its most illustrious citizens.

Philadelphia, November 12, 1879.

Chapter I. The Voyage To England

Determination of General Grant to visit Europe — Preparations for the Journey — Arrival in Philadelphia — Reception there — The American Steamship Line — The "Indiana" — Departure from Philadelphia — Trip down the Delaware — The Parting — Going to Sea — The Outward Voyage — Arrival at Queenstown — Reception at Liverpool — Speech of the Mayor — Description of Liverpool — General Grant visits the Docks — Lunch at the Town Hall — Visit to Manchester — An English Welcome — Reception at the Royal Exchange — The Address — Reception at Leicester and Bedford — Arrival in London 33

Chapter II. General Grant In London

Hospitalities Tendered General Grant by Distinguished Englishmen — Attends the Epsom Races — Meets the Prince of Wales — Dines with the Duke of Wellington — Attends Church at Westminster Abbey — The Noted Places of London — Size and Population of the Metropolis— The City — Modern London — A Run Through the City — Westminster Abbey — Dinner at the American Embassy — Letter of General Grant to Mr. George W. Childs — His Impressions of his Reception — Presented at Court — Visit to Bath — Return to London — Seeing the Sights — The Thames Embankment — Cleopatra's Needle — The Tower of London — The Houses of Parliament — Opening Parliament — St. Paul's — The Bank of England — The Royal Exchange — The Post-Office — The British Museum — The Mansion House — The Lord Mayor — The National Gallery — The Docks — The Underground Railway— Hyde Park — Kensington Gardens — St. James's Park — Buckingham Palace — St. James's Palace — General Grant visits Southampton — Visit to the Isle of Wight — Return to London — Guildhall — General Grant presented with the Freedom of the City — Dinner at the Crystal Palace — Dinner with the Marquis of Lome and the Princess Louise — Breakfast with Mr. Smalley — Dinner with the Prince of Wales — Marlborough House — Visit to the Opera — Dinner at Trinity House — General Grant visits Earl Russell — Invited to visit the Queen — Arrival at Windsor Castle — The State Dinner — Visit to Liverpool — The Press Dinner at London — Address from the Workingmen — The Fourth of July Celebration 47

Chapter III. General Grant's First Visit To The Continent

Departure from London — Arrival at Ostend — Visit to Ghent — Brussels — Description of the City — King Leopold visits General Grant — Dinner with the King of the Belgians —

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General Grant at Cologne — Up the Rhine — Coblentz — Weisbaden — Visit to Frankfort — At Homburg— Grant at Heidelberg — Baden and the Black Forest — The Journey to Switzerland — Lucerne — The Lake of the Four Cantons — At Interlaken — Visit to Berne — Reception by the President of the Swiss Republic — Grant at Geneva — Lake Leman — The City of Geneva — General Grant Lays the Corner-Stone of a Church — En Route to Mont Blanc — Chamounix — Mont Blanc — General Grant sets out for Italy — Over the Alps — Martigny — The Simpion Pass — General Grant in Italy — Logo Maggiore — Pallanza — The Lake of Como — Beilagio — Chiavenna — The Spliigen Pass — Via Mala — In Switzerland again — Ragatz — The Baths of Pi'affers — The Hot Springs — Zurich — The Lake and City — Visit to Alsace and Lorraine — Strasbourg — The Cathedral — The Astronomical Clock — Metz — General Grant at Antwerp — His Return to England 101

Chapter IV. General Grant Visits Cotland And The Midland Counties Of

ENGLAND.

General Grant Visits Edinburgh — Is the Guest of the Lord Provost — Presented with the Freedom of the City — Description of Edinburgh — The Castle — Holyrood Palace — St. Giles' — The Streets of Edinburgh — Visit to Dundee — Melrose Abbey — Abbotsford — Visit to Dunrobin Castle — The Duke of Sutherland — Visit to Thurso Castle — At Inverness— Elgin — Visit to Glasgow — Presented with the Freedom of the City — Glasgow — Visit to Ayr — Memories of Burns — Loch Lomond — Inverary — Visit to the Duke of Argyle — General Grant Returns to England — Visit to Newcastle-on-Tyne — A Flattering Reception — A Trip Down the Tyne — Grand Popular Demonstration in Honor of General Grant — An Outpouring of the People — The Workingmen's Address — Reply of General Grant — Visit to Sunderland — Grant Lays another Corner-Stone — Arrival at Sheffield — Reception by the City Authorities — The Manufactories — Visit to Stratford-on-Avon — Shakespeare's Home — At Leamington — Kenilworth — Warwick Castle — A Rest at Southampton— General Grant Visits Birmingham — Reception by the Municipal Authorities — Visits to the Manufactories of Birmingham — General Grant at Brighton — The English Paris— A Beautiful City 1 58

Chapter V. General Grant's Visit To Paris

Departure from London — The Channel Passage — Trip to Paris — Arrival in that City — Early- History of Paris — Situation of the City — Municipal Government — Some Statistics — The Boulevards — The Streets — Paris by Gaslight — A Brilliant Sight — Place de la Concorde — The Arch of Triumph — Place du Carrousel — Portes St. Denis and St. Martin — The Champs Elysees — The Bois de Boulogne — The Seine — Along the River — The Bridges — The Steamboat-Omnibus— The Tuileries— The Hotel de Ville— The Island— Old Paris — The Palace of Justice — The Conciergerie — The Holy Chapel — Notre Dame — The Exterior— The Interior — The Louvre — Description of the Palace — The Picture Galleries — The Museums— The Luxembourg Palace— The Palais Royal— The Shops— The Gardens —The Bourse— The Hotel des Invalides— Tomb of Napoleon I.— General Grant Visits Marshal MacMahon— The ElysSe— Reception by Minister Noyes— Grant at the Opera- Meets Gambetta— Dines with the French President— Dinner at the Grand Hotel— Mrs. Mackey's Party— Grant Meets the Count of Paris— The Herald Office— Versailles— The Old Palace— Memories of the Past— General Grant and Party Leave Paris— At Lyons- Grant Visits Marseilles— At Nice— Arrival of the "Vandalia" at Villefranche— General Grant and his Party Embark for the Mediterranean Voyage 190

CONTENTS. 27

Chapter VI. The Mediterranean Voyage

Arrival of the " Vandalia " at Naples — The City — Its Situation — The Neapolitans — Visit Of the Authorities to General Grant — An Excursion to Mount Vesuvius — Italian Beggars — Eruptions of Mount Vesuvius — The Ascent of the Mountain — View of the Bay — The Crater — Return to the Ship — General Grant Visits Pompeii — The Guide — Ancient Pompeii— Eruption of Vesuvius and Destruction of the City — Excavation of Pompeii — The Ruins — A Pompeiian Villa — Ancient Art — The Forum — The Theatres — The House of the Tragic Poet — An Official Reception at Naples — The " Vandalia " sails for Sicily — Arrival at Palermo — The City — A Christmas Dinner — General Grant's Avi-rsion to Display— Departure from Palermo — The Straits of Messina — Mount Etna — A. rival at Malta — La Valetta — Visit of the Duke of Edinburgh — Hospitalities at Malta — Visits to the Governor and the Duke of Edinburgh— Departure from Malta — Life at Sea 251

Chapter VII. Egypt And The Nile

The Coast of Egypt — The Harbor of Alexandria — The City — Modern Alexandria — Arrival of the "Vandalia" at Alexandria — A Royal Welcome to General Grant — Official Visits — Photographs — Leaving the "Vandalia" — Arrival at Cairo — General Grant the Guest 01 the Khedive — The Palace Kassr-el-Noussa — Visit to the Khedive — Hospitalities in Cairo — Description of Cairo — The Mosques — The Bazaars — General Grant Visits the Pyramids — The Khedive Places a Government Steamer at General Grant's disposal for the Nile Voyage — The Departure — Up the Nile — The Party on Board — Brugsrh-Bey — The Boat— The Crew— Life on the Nile— The Desert— The Arabs— Siout— A Hearty Welcome — The Town — An Egyptian Dinner — Arrival at Girgel — Meeting with Friends — Visit to Abydos — A Donkey Ride — Arab Boys — The Oldest City in the World — An Arab Host — General Grant at Thebes — The City of Rameses — The Statues of Memnon — Luxor — The Great Temple — Medeenet Aboo — Dinner with the Consul — Karnak — The Temple — The Sacred Lake — Assouan — Nubia — Shopping at Assouan — Visit to Philse — The Voyage down the Nile — Visit to Memphis — The Serapeum — Return to Cairo— Departure for Port Said — On Board the " Vandalia " Again 286

Chapter VIII. The Holy Land, Turkey And Greece

Arrival of the "Vandalia" at Jaffa — The Landing — Jaffa — The Journey — The Journey to Jerusalem — Reception at Jerusalem — A Surprise to General Grant — His Personal Wishes Concerning Receptions — Life in Jerusalem — The Modern City — The Streets — The Jews — The Government — The Haram-esh-Sherif — The Ancient Temple — The Dome of the Rock — The Mosque of El-Aksa — The Church of the Holy Sepulchre — The Tomb of our Lord — Via Dolorosa — The Mount of Olives — Gethsemane — Visit to Bethlehem — Grotto of the Nativity — The Journey to Damascus — Northern Palestine — Nazareth — Damascus — Journey to Beyrout — Departure for Constantinople — Arrival in the Turkish Capital — Reception by the Sultan — Description of the City of Constantinople — General Grant's Arabian Horses — Departure for Greece — Arrival at Athens — Honors by the King and People — Modern Athens — Illumination of the Acropolis — Departure from Athens — Corinth — Syracuse — Arrival of the "Vandalia" at Naples — End of the Mediterranean Voyage 352

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Chapter IX. Italy, France, Holland

Arrival of General Grant at Rome — Call of Cardinal McCloskey — Interview with the Pope — A Welcome from King Humbert — General Grant Visits the King — King Humbert Entertains General Grant at Dinner — Visit to Florence — The Uffizi Gallery — The Cathedral — Easter Services — General Grant at Venice — Description of the City — St. Mark's Square

The Cathedral — Gondolas and Gondolier — General Grant Visits Milan — Description

of the City — The Cathedral of Milan — Visit to Genoa — General Grant Returns to Paris

The International Exhibition — General Grant's Visit to the Exhibition — Departure for

Holland — Arrival of General Grant at the Hague — Enthusiastic Reception — Royal Attentions— Grant at Rotterdam — A State Dinner — Visit to Amsterdam — The Commercial Metropolis of Holland — Banquet to General Grant — The North Sea Canal — Visit to Broek — The Cleanest Town in the World — General Grant Leaves for Germany 402

Chapter X. Prussia, Denmark, Norway, And Sweden

Arrival of General Grant at Berlin — The Prussian Capital — Unter den Linden — Statue of Frederick the Great — The Museum — The University — Excursion to Potsdam — The European Congress — Visit to Prince Bismarck — A Memorable Interview — A Review — Lunch with the Crown Prince — General Grant dines with Prince Bismarck — A Quiet Chat — Dinner at the American Legation — Departure of General Grant from Berlin — Arrival at Hamburg — Cordial Reception — Attentions by the Municipal Authorities — The Fourth of July — Arrival of General Grant at Copenhagen — Departure for Norway — Reception at Gottenburg — Arrival at Christiana — General Grant's Interview with the King of Norway and Sweden — Visit to Stockholm — The Venice of the North 422

Chapter XI. Russia And Austria

The Baltic Voyage — Arrival at Cronstadt — General Grant Saluted by the Russian Forts — Welcome to Cronstadt — Arrival of General Gram, at St. Petersburg — A Welcome from the Czar — General Grant's Interview with the Czar — Prince Gortschakoff — Visit to Peterhof and Cronstadt — Interview with the Czarewitch — Description of St. Petersburg — General Grant Visits Moscow — The Ancient City — The Kremlin — Departure for Warsaw— Arrival of General Grant at Vienna — Count Andrassy Calls upon General Grant — Interview with the Emperor — General and Mrs. Grant Dine with the Emperor and Empress— The City of Vienna — Visit to Munich — Entertainment at Zurich — Return of General Grant to Paris 443

Chapter XII. Spain, Portugal, Ireland

Departure of General Grant for Southern France — A Message from the King of Spain — A Change of Plans — Departure for Spain — Biarritz — Irun — Interview with Castelar — Arrival at Viltoria — General Grant's Interview with the King of Spain — A Pleasant Meeting — The Boy- King — A Review — Arrival at Madrid — Life in Madrid — Visit to the Escurial — General Grant Witnesses the Attempted Assassination of King Alfonso — Visit to Lisbon — Cordial Reception by the King of Portugal — General Grant and the King at the Opera — General Grant Dines with the King's Father — Visit to Cintra — General Grant Returns to Spain — Visit to Cordova — The Mosque — General Grant at Seville — Visit to

ABDUL HAMID, SULTAN OF TURKEY

CONTENTS.

the Duke of Montpensier — General Grant at Cadiz — A Spanish City — The Angelus Bells — A Visit to Gibraltar — Lord Napier Entertains General Grant — Return to Spain — The Journey to Paris — General Grant in London — Departure for Ireland — Reception at Dublin— Presented with the Freedom of the City — Visit to Londonderry — Enthusiastic Reception— Visit to Belfast — A Cordial Greeting — General Grant Returns to England — Grant in Paris — Preparations for the Indian Tour 453

Chapter XIII. India

A Change of Plans — The " Richmond " Behind Time — General Grant Embarks at Marseilles for India — The Voyage to Alexandria — Railroad Ride to Suez — The"Venetia" — On the Red Sea — General Grant and his Party — Life on the Indian Steamer — Killing Time — Arrival at Aden — News from Europe— In the Indian Ocean — Arrival at Bombay — General Grant's Welcome to India — Malabar Point — The Government House — General Grant at Bombay — Life in India — Hospitalities to General Grant at Bombay — The Sacred Caves of Elephanta — State Dinner to General Grant — General Grant Leaves Bombay — Visit to Allahabad — Arrival at Agra — The Fort — Visit to the Taj-Mahal — The Most Beautiful Building in the World — Hospitalities to General Grant at Agra — Visit to Jeypore — The Maharajah Entertains General Grant — The Ride to Amber — The Ancient Capital — An Elephant Ride — Jeypore — Reception by the Maharajah — A Nautch Dance — Departure from Jeypore — Visit to the Maharajah of Bhurtpoor — A Native Despot — General Grant Returns to Agra 493

Chapter XIV. India Concluded

Arrival of General Grant at Delhi — Description of Delhi — The Ruins — Beggars — The Mogul Kingdom — The Palace — The Peacock Throne — Tomb of an Indian Princess — General Grant goes to Lucknow — A Pleasant Host — The Residency — The Kaiser Bagh — Memories of the Defence of Lucknow — General Grant at Benares — The Sacred City of the Hindoos — A Severe Journey — Reception at Benares — The Holy Place — A City of Priests — The Temples — Tlv Religion of Brahma — Power of the Brahmins — The Splendors of Benares — Departure of General Grant from Benares — Arrival at Calcutta — -Reception by the Authorities — General Grant the Guest of the Viceroy of India — Th.- Fort — The City of Calcutta — Convocation of the University — Reception of General Grant by the Viceroy — Excursion to Lord Lytton's Country Seat — Barrackpore Park — Lord Lytton Entertains General Grant at a State Dinner — The Guests — Lord Lytton — His Administration 554

CHAPTEI XV.

BURMAH AND SIAM.

Departure of General Grant from India — Voyage to Rangoon — The " Simla " — Arrival of General Grant at Rangoon — Reception by the Authorities — The Pagoda — General Grant eaves Rangoon — Voyage down the Straits of Malacca — Penang — Singapore — An Inviiation from the King of Siam — News from the " Richmond " — General Grant sails for Bangkok — The Gulf of Siam — Arrival of General Grant at Bangkok — Almost an Accident— The Venice of the East — Reception of General Grant by the Celestial Prince — A Visit to the Regent — A Pleasant Interview — The Siamese Government — The Second King — General Grant Calls upon the King of Siam — The King Returns General Grant's Visit — An Important Interview — The King Entertains General Grant at a State Dinner. . 592

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Chapter XVI. China

Departure of General Grant from Siam— Arrival at Singapore— No News from the " Richmond "—General Grant Embarks on the " Irrawaddy " for Hong Kong— Saigon— Arrival at Hong Kong— The "Ashuelot " — Reception of General Grant at Hong Kong

General Grant Sails in the "Ashuelot" for Canton — Arrival at Canton — Reception of

General Grant by the Chinese Authorities — A Visit to the Viceroy — A State Procession — A Chinese Display — Reception by the Viceroy — A Chinese Tea-Party — Chopsticks — The Viceroy's Visit to General Grant — Oriental Pomp — A Chinese State Dinner — General Grant Leaves Canton — Macao — Memories of Camoens — General Grant returns to Hong Koncr The Voyage to Shanghai — Swatow — Amoy — Arrival of General Grant at Shanghai A Magnificent Reception — General Grant Arrives at Tientsin — A Grand Reception

The Viceroy at Tientsin — Welcomes General Grant — The Most Powerful Subject of

the Chinese Empire — Courtesies to General Grant — The Voyage up the Peiho — Arrival of General Grant at Pekin — Honors to General Grant in Pekin — Interview with the Prince Regent Kung — A Remarkable Man — China Requests General Grant to Mediate Between Herself and Japan — An Important Interview — General Grant Returns to Tientsin Memorable Interview with the Viceroy — A Chinese Statesman — A Diplomatic Dinner Arrival of the "Richmond" — General Grant Leaves Tientsin — The Viceroy's

Farewell — Visit to the Great Wall of China — The " Richmond " at Cheefoo — The Midnight Salute — Departure from China 629

Chapter XVII. Japan

Arrival of General Grant at Nagasaki — A Royal Reception — A Welcome from the Emperor— Prince Dati — Landing at Nagasaki — The Cholera — Dinner to General Grant by the Governor — General Grant Entertained by the Merchants — An Old-Fashioned Japanese Feast — Japanese Dishes and Customs — An Ancient Dance — General Grant Sails for Yokohama — Arrival at that Port — The Landing at Yokohama — A Magnificent Spectacle — Reception by the Authorities — The Journey to Tokio — Reception of General Grant at the Japanese Capital — General Grant's Visit to the Emperor of Japan — The Palace — The Emperor and Empress — A Cordial Reception — The Fourth of July in Japan — The Emperor Holds a Review of the Japanese Army in Honor of General Grant, and Entertains him at Breakfast — General Grant's Home at Tokio — The Palace of Euriokwan — Grant the Guest of Japan — A Japanese Paradise — Glimpses of Japanese Life — Japanese Hospitality— Mrs. Grant and the Empress — The Emperor's Visit to General Grant — Grant's Advice to the Emperor — The Chinese Question — Excursions to Nikko and Kamakara — General Grant Prepares to Leave Japan — Last Days in the Island Empire — General Grant Dines With the Prime Minister — An Entertainment at Mr. Yoshida's — A Visit to Prince Dati — General Grant Takes Leave of the Emperor — Parting Courtesies to General Grant 720

Chapter XVIII. The Voyage Home

General Grant Engages Passage for San Francisco on the " City of Tokio " — Departure from Tokio — Embarkation at Yokohama — Parting with Friends — A Royal Farewell —

CONTENTS.

The Last Salute — The Voyage Across the Pacific — Life on the "City of Tokio" — Preparations to Receive General Grant at San Francisco — Arrival of the " City of Tokio " — A Grand Spectacle — Reception of General Grant at San Francisco — A Brilliant and Imposing Demonstration — End of the Tour Around the World ,....„. 7 86

Chapter XIX

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF GENERAL U. S. GRANT.

Birth and Early Life — Boyish Characteristics — Enters West Point — Graduates — Appointed a Lieutenant in the Fourth Infantry — Services During the Mexican War — Promoted to a Captaincy — Marries Miss Julia T. Dent — Leaves the Army — Settles in St. Louis — Removes to Galena, Ills. — Breaking Out of the War — Grant Volunteers — Made Colonel of the Twenty-first Illinois Regiment — Receives a Brigadier-General's Commission — Seizes Paducah — Battle of Belmont — Capture of Forts Henry and Donnelson — Battle of Pittsburgh Landing — Siege of Corinth — Given Command of the Department of West Tennessee — Battles of Iuka and Corinth — The Campaign Against Vicksburg — Surrender of Vicksburg — Grant Defeats Bragg at Mission Ridge and Lookout Mountain — Is Made Lieutenant-General — The Virginia Campaign — Battles of the Wilderness, Spottsylvania and Cold Harbor — Grant Crosses the James River — Siege of Petersburg — Retreat of Lee — Surrender of Lee's Army — Grant is Made General of the Army — Appointed Secretary of War Ad Interim — Controversy with President Johnson — Grant Twice Elected President of the United States — Events of His Administration — Retires to Private Life. . 798

A TOUR

BY

General Grant.

Chapter I. The Voyage To England

Determination of General Grant to visit Europe — Preparations for the Journey — Arrival in Philadelphia— Reception there — The American Steamship Line — The "Indiana" — Departure from Philadelphia — Trip down the Delaware — The Parting — Going to Sea — The Outward Voyage — Arrival at Queenstown — Reception at Liverpool — Speech of the Mayor — Description of Liverpool — General Grant visits the Docks — Lunch at the Town Hall — Visit to Manchester — An English Welcome — Reception at the Royal Exchange — The Address — Reception at Leicester and Bedford — Arrival in London.

N the 4th of March, 1877, General Ulysses S. Grant retired from the Presidency of the United States, his second term of office expiring on that day. It had for some time been General Grant's intention to seek in foreign travel the rest and recreation he had been so long denied by his constant official duties. For the first time since the spring of 1861 — a period of sixteen eventful and busy years to him — he was a private citizen, and free to direct his movements according to his own pleasure. He had successfully closed one of the greatest wars in history, had devoted eight years to a troubled and exciting administration of the Chief Magistracy of the United States, and was sorely in need of rest. This, as has been said, he resolved to seek in travel in foreign lands. 3 (33)

He devoted the few weeks following his withdrawal from office to arranging his private affairs, and engaged passage for himself, Mrs. Grant, and his son Jesse, on the steamer " Indiana," one of the American Line, sailing between Philadelphia and Liverpool — the only Transatlantic line flying the American flag.

On the 9th of May, 1877, General Grant reached Philadelphia. It was his intention to pass the last week of his stay in his own country with his friends in that city, who were very numerous and devotedly attached to him. During his stay in Philadelphia he was the guest of Mr. George W. Childs, the owner of the Public Ledger, and was the recipient of many honors at the hands of the citizens.

On the 10th of May, the day after his arrival, he visited the Permanent Exhibition — the successor of the Centennial Exhibition— on the occasion of its opening. Just one year before this General Grant, in his official capacity as President of the United States, had formally opened the great World's Fair on the same spot. The nth, 12th, and 13th, he passed in social intercourse with his friends in the city, and on the 14th held a reception at the Union League Club, after which he reviewed the First Regiment of Infantry of the National Guard of Pennsylvania. On the 1 6th he received the Soldiers' Orphans from the State School. The little fellows marched by the steps of Mr. Childs' residence, upon which stood Generals Grant and Sherman, and were greeted with smiles and kind words as they passed by. Later in the day he received in Independence Hall the veteran soldiers and sailors of the city, to the number of twelve hundred. He then repaired to the residence of Mr. Childs, where he lunched with Governor Hartranft. In the evening he was serenaded, the mansion being brilliantly illuminated.