New York by sunlight and gaslight. A work descriptive of the great American metropolis...

Front matter

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Preface

What Paris is to the Frenchman, or London to the Briton, New York is to the American. It is not only the Great Metropolis of the New World, but it is the chief attraction upon this continent, the great centre to which our people resort for business and pleasure, and as such, is a source of never-failing interest.

This being the case, it is natural that every American should desire to visit New York, to see the city for himself, behold its beauties, its wonderful sights, and participate in the pleasures which are to be enjoyed only in the Metropolis. Thousands avail themselves of this privilege every year ; but the great mass of our people know our chief city only by the descriptions of their friends, and the brief accounts of its sights and scenes which occur from time to time in the newspapers of the day. Even those who visit the city bring away but a superficial knowledge of it, as to know New York requires years of constant study and investigation. Strangers see only the surface ; they cannot penetrate into its inner life, and examine the countless influences at work every day in shaping the destiny of the beautiful city. Few, even of the residents of the Metropolis, have either the time or the means for such investigations. Few have a correct idea of the terrible romance and hard reality of the daily lives of a vast portion of the dwellers in New York, or of the splendor and luxury of the wealthier classes.

One of the chief characteristics of New York is the rapidity with which changes occur in it. Those who were familiar with the city in the past will find it new to them now. The march of progress and improvement presses on with giant strides, and the city of to-day is widely separated from the city of a few years ago. Only one who has devoted himself to watching its onward career, either in prosperity and magnificence or in misery and crime, can form any idea of the magnitude and character of the wonderful changes of the past ten years.

The volume now offered to the reader aims to be a faithful and graphic picture of the New York of to-day, and to give, in life-like

iii iV PREFACE.

colors, views of its magnificent streets and buildings, its busy, bustling crowds, its rushing elevated trains, its countless sights, its romance, its mystery, its nobler and better efforts in the cause of humanity, its dark crimes, and terrible tragedies. In short, the work endeavors to hold up to the reader a faithful mirror, in which shall pass all the varied scenes that transpire in New York, by sunlight and by gaslight. To those who have seen the great city, the work is offered as a means of recalling some of the pleasantest experiences of their lives ; while to the still larger class who have never enjoyed this pleasure, it is hoped that it will be the medium of their acquiring an intimate acquaintance with New York in the quiet of their own homes, and without the expense or fatigue of a journey.

This volume is not a work of fiction, but a narrative of well authenticated, though often startling facts. The darker sides of New York life are shown in their true colors, and without any effort to tone them down. Foul blots are to be found upon the life of the great city. Sin, vice, crime and shame are terrible realities there, and they have been presented here as they actually exist.

Throughout the work, the aim of the author has been to warn those who wish to see for themselves the darker side of city life, of the dangers attending such undertakings. A man who seeks the haunts of vice and crime in New York takes his life in his hand, exposes himself to dangers of the most real kind, and deserves all the harm that may come to him in his quest of knowledge. Enough is told in this volume to satisfy legitimate curiosity, and to convince the reader that the only path of safety in New York is to avoid all places of doubtful repute. The city is bright and beautiful enough to occupyall one's time with its wonderful sights and innocent pleasures. To venture under the shadow, is to court danger in all its forms. No matter how "wise in his own conceit" a stranger may be, he is but a child in the hands of the disreputable classes of the great city.

In the preparation of this work the author has drawn freely upon his own experience, the result of a long and intimate acquaintance with all the various phases of New York life. He ventures to hope that those who are familiar with the subject will recognize the truthfulness of the statements made, and that the book may prove a source of pleasure and profit to all who may honor it with a perusal.

November \st, 1881. J. d. m'c.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

TAGS

BARTHOLDI'S STATUE, "LIBERTY ENLIGHTENING THE WORLD," (Frontispiece)

'EVENING POST BUILDING (Full Page).-,''. 43

ODD FELLOWS' HALL 44

NEW YORK LIFE INSURANCE COMPANY'S BUILDING 45

-DOMESTIC SEWING MACHINE BUILDING (Full Page).., 47

TRIBUNE BUILDING 48

STAATS ZEITUNG BUILDING 49

GRAND CENTRAL DEPOT (Full Page) to/ace 61 ■

-PAVONIA DOCKS, JERSEY CITY (Full Page)... v. 90

-BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF NEW YORK (Full Page)..y. 93

BROADWAY, LOOKING NORTH FROM EXCHANGE PLACE 136

MUTUAL LIFE INSURANCE BUILDING 138

-•ST. PAUL'S CHURCH (Full Page)....v 139

■"BROADWAY, AT THE POST OFFICE (Full Page) 141

-LORD AND TAYLOR'S DRY GOODS STORE (Full Page) 150

-SWELL TURNOUT ON FIFTH AVENUE (Full Page) 172

METROPOLITAN ELEVATED RAILWAY STATION, SIXTH AVENUE AND

TWENTY-THIRD STREET (Full Page) to/act 179

ELEVATED RAILROAD, CHATHAM SQUARE (Full Page) to/ace 1S3

COENTIES SLIP (Full Page) to/ace 191

THE THIRD AVENUE RAILROAD DEPOT 241

ilASONIC TEMPLE, SIXTH AVENUE AND TWENTY-THIRD STREET 252

METROPOLITAN ELEVATED RAILROAD, SIXTH AVENUE AND FOUR- TEENTH STREET (Full Page) toface 255 V

^COACHING DAY IN CENTRAL PARK (Full Page) 263

COOPER INSTITUTE AND ELEVATED RAILROAD, THIRD AVENUE (Full

Page) • toface 267 y

"PLEASE GIVE ME A PENNY" 271

'SCENE ON WEST STREET (Full Page) 279

CITY HALL AND PARK (Full Page) toface 207--

UNITED STATES SUB-TREASURY 299

CUSTOM HOUSE 301

^CUSTOM HOUSE INSPECTION (Full Page) 303

STEINWAY HALL 307

COOPER UNION 3^9

NATIONAL ACADEMY OF DESIGN 312

XJRAND CENTRAL DEPOT, FRONT VIEW (Full Page) 317

^A VETERAN CALLER AT WORK (Full Page) 325

A CALLER WHO HAS HAD TOO MUCH PUNCH 327

NEW YORK STOCK EXCHANGE 335

BELL TELEPHONE EXCHANGE (Full Page) toface ^s^'

CUNARD STEAMSHIP "GALLIA" 361

SOUND STEAMER BRISTOL (Full Page) toface 361

'"GRAND SALOON, SOUND STEAMER (Full Page) 363

\PAVONIA AND ERIE RAILWAY FERRY (Full Page) t^rfave"^ ^0'{

AN ATTEMPT AT SUICIDE FOILED (Full Page) toface 397^

VI LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

COURTLANDT STREET FERRY (Full Page) 403

THE TOMBS 410

SCENE IN A POLICE COURT (Full Page) to/ace 417-

LUDLOW STREET JAIL 4^9

UNION SQUARE, AT FOURTEENTH STREET (Full Page) to/ace 427 .

SVIADISON SQUARE (Full Page) 429

VIEW OF THE LAKE FROM THE TERRACE 451

THE LOWER TERRACE IN CENTRAL PARK 453

"^BRIDGE ACROSS THE LAKE (Full Page) 435

^THE OBELISK (Full Page) 463

■^'RIXITY CHURCH (Full Page) 471

A FANCY BALL AT THE BUCKINGHAM PALACE (Full Page) to/ace 481 •

^A WATER STREET DANCE HOUSE (Full Page) 491

JAY GOULD 497

THE SIXTY-NINTH REGIMENT ARMORY 499

THE SEVENTH REGIMENT ARMORY 502

WM. H. VANDERBILT 503

^IVER PIRATES ESCAPING FROM THE POLICE (Full Page) 519

CREEDMOOR RIFLE RANGE 528

;;^00 MUCH RUM (Full Page) 531

HENRY BERGH (Full Page) 535

■^BROOKLYN BRIDGE AND EAST RIVER (Full Page) 538

SCENE IN A BROADWAY GAMBLING HALL 544

LOW CLASS GAMBLING DEN 547

THE TUNNEL UNDER THE HUDSON RIVER 534

-A. T. STEWART & CO.'S RETAIL STORE (Full Page) 537

TENEMENT HOUSE IN BAXTER STREET (Full Page) to/ace 561

JERRY M'AULEY 564

MRS. M'AULEY 567

'^ BOOTH'S THEATRE (Full Page) 575

GRAND OPERA HOUSE 576

""THE HOMES OF THE POOR (Full Page) 582

SCENE IN THE CHINESE QUARTERS (Full Page) to/ace 585,

~-SHANTIES IN EIGHTH AVENUE (Full Page) 587

HOSPITAL FOR CATS (Full Page) to/ace 59i'

THE EVENING MAIL BUILDING 600

CHEMICAL FIRE ENGINE 606

NEW YORK FIREMEN RESCUING A CHILD FROM THE FLAMES 6n

-HARRY iillLLS (Full Page) 613

HON. JOHN KELLY 617

REV. HENRY C. POTTER, D.D 622

REV. JOHN C. HALL, D.D 625

REV. THOS. ARMITAGK, D.D 626

REV. W. M. TAYLOR. D.D 627

REV. ROBT. COLLYER, D.D 628

"^ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL (Full Page) 632

THE OLD BOWERY THEATRE 640

ST. NICHOLAS HOTEL 646

METROPOLITAN HOTEL 647

GRAND CENTRAL HOTEL 649

THE TRAMP'S BATH 653

BEER TRAMPS 654

EMIGRANTS LANDING AT CASTLE GARDEN (Full Page) toface 661

SCENE IN FULTON MARKET DURING THE WATERMELON SEASON (Full

Page) to/ace 665

HIGH BRIDGE 669

Chapter I. The Great Metropolis. \

GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF NEW YORK CITY — LOCATION— NATURAL ADVANTAGES — COMMERCIAL ADVANTAGES — THE STREETS — BUILDINGS — CLIMATE — HEALTHFULNESS — MORTALITY — RAPID GROWTH OF THE CITY — LOFTY BUILDINGS — DESCRIPTION OF THE MOST NOTED AND THE HIGHEST STRUCTURES IN THE CITY — REASONS FOR BUILDING SO HIGH — LAND CHEAP UP STAIRS • . • . 33

CHAPTER n.

THE PEOPLE OF NEW YORK.

POPULATION OF NEW YORK IN 1870— THE STATE CENSUS OF 1875— WHAT CHANGES IT SHOWED— POPU- LATION IN 1880 — POPULATION AFFECTED BY THE IMPROVEMENTS IN THE LOWER PART OF THE CITY — THE MOST DENSELY SETTLED PART OF NEW YORK — THE FLOATING POPULATION — STRANGERS IN NEW YORK — FOREIGN DISTRICTS — COSMOPOLITAN CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE — CHARACTERISTICS OF NEW YORKERS — LACK OF PUBLIC SPIRIT — INDIFFERENCE TO POLITI- CAL AFFAIRS — THE RESULT — THE RACE FOR WEALTH — HOW BUSINESS IS DONE IN NEW YORK — WEARING OUT BODY AND SOUL — A PHILOSOPHICAL MERCHANT — A NEW COMER'S IMPRESSIONS — LIVING TOO PAST — NO CHANCE FOR LAGGARDS — HOW SUCCESS IS WON — MERIT THE TEST — NEW YORK FROM A MORAL POINT OF VIEW— ITS CHARITIES AND BENEVOLENCE — TOLERATION OF OPINIONS AND BELIEFS — MENTAL CULTURE OF THE PEOPLE — WHAT IT COSTS TO LIVE IN NEW YORK — THE RICH AND THE MIDDLE CLASSES — NEW YORK AS A PLACE OF RESIDENCE — ATTACHMENT OF THE PEOPLE TO THE CITY 5I

CHAPTER in.

THE GROWTH OF NEW YORK.

RAPID GROWTH OF NEW YORK DURING THE PAST THIRTY-FIVE YEARS — THE FLUSH TIMES AFTER THE WAR — EFFECTS OF THE PANIC OF 1S73 — A MOMENTARY CHECK — RETURN OF PROS- PERITY — PROSPECTS FOR THE FUTURE — INCREASE IN BUILDING OPF.RATIONS — HOW REAL ESTATE APPRECIATES IN VALUE — THE SECRET OF THE GREAT INCREASE OF WEALTH IN NEW YORK — FUTURE CENTRES OF POPULATION — WHAT NEW YORK WILL BE FIFTY YEARS HENCE — A GRAND DESTINY 65

CHAPTER IV.

TPIE HARBOR OF NEW YORK,

NATURAL ADVANTAGES OF THE HARBOR — THE OUTER AND INNER BAYS — EXCURSIONS — A TRIP DOWN THE HARBOR — SCENES ALONG THE ROUTE — THE SHIPPING — THROUGH THE INNER BAY —governor's island — BEDLOE'S and ELLIS' ISLANDS — BARTHOLDl's STATUE — LIBERTY ENLIGHTENING THE WORLD — THE KILL VAN KULL — STATEN ISLAND — THE NARROWS — THE FORTIFICATIONS — THE OUTER BAY — QUARANTINE — CONEY ISLAND — SCENES IN THE LOWER BAY — SANDY HOOK — OUT TO SEA — BACK TO NEW YORK 88

vii

Vlll CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V.

SANDY HOOK.

DESCRIPTION OP " THE HOOK " — A NOTED LANDMARK — A SANDY WASTE — THE COVE — THE BEACH — THE LIGHT-SHIPS— THE LIFE SAVING STATION — SANDY HOOK LIGHTHOUSE — ITS HISTORY — THE keeper's HOUSE — WRECKS — IN THE LIGHT-TOWER — A GRAND VIEW — OCEAN CEME- TERY — THE FORTIFICATIONS — TESTING THE HEAVY GUNS — THE NORTH LIGHT — THE SYRENS — THE TELEGRAPH STATION I04

CHAPTER VI.

THE NEVERSINK HIGHLANDS.

SITUATION OF THE HIGHLANDS — THE SHREWSBURY RIVER — RED BANK — ORIGIN OF THE NAME OF THE HIGHLANDS — AS SEEN FROM THE SEA — THE LIGHT TOWERS — A MAGNIFICENT LIGHT — VIEW FROM THE TOWER — THE PICTURES IN THE LENSES — A GLIMPSE OF FAIRY LAND. II3

CHAPTER VII.

MUNICIPAL GOVERNMENT.

ORGANIZATION OF THE CITY GOVERNMENT — THE MAYOR AND BOARD OF ALDERMEN— THE COM- MISSIONERS — DESCRIPTION OF THE VARIOUS MUNICIPAL DEPARTMENTS— POWERS OF OFFI- CIALS — THECOURTS — POLICE JUSTICES — THE MEN BY WHOM NEW YORK IS GOVERNED — RESPON- SIBILITY OF THE BETTER CLASSES — FROM THE GROG SHOP TO CIVIL POWER — WHO THE LEAD- ERS ARE — THE " boss" — THE RING — HOW BOSS TWEED MAINTAINED HIS POWER — SPASMODIC EFFORTS AT REFORM — MULHOOLYISM IN NEW YORK — AN INSIDE VIEW OF MUNICIPAL POLITICS — THE SLAVE OF THE RING — LOOKING OUT FOR THE " BOYS " — THE INTERESTS OF THE CITY NEGLECTED — THE POPULAR WILL DEFIED BY THE RING. I18

CHAPTER VIII.

BROADWAY.

BARLY HISTORT OF BROADWAY — UNDER THE DUTCH AND ENGLISH RULE— PRIMITIVE NAME OP THE STREET — IT COMMENCES TO GROW — THE GREAT FIRE OF 1776 — THE BROADWAY OF TO- DAY — APPEARANCE OF THE STREET — A STROLL ON BROADWAY — THE LOWER STREET — TRINITY CHURCH — THE INSURANCE COMPANIES — THE TELEGRAPH WIRES — MAGNIFICENT BUILDINGS — SCENE FROM THE POST-OFFICE — A BROADWAY JAM — LOWER BROADWAY UY NIGHT — CHARACTERISTICS OF THE VARIOUS PORTIONS OF THE STREET — VIEW FROM CANAL STREET — THE HOTELS — AMONG THE PUBLISHERS—" STEWARt's " — GRACE CHURCH — BROADWAY AT UNION SQUARE — THE NARROWEST PART — MADISON SQUARE — A GRAND SIGHT — UPPER BROADWAY — A STREET OF MARBLE — THE GREAT HOTELS — THE CENTRAL PARK REACHED — STREET CARS AND OMNIBUSES — THE NIGHT LIFE OF BROADWAY — SCENES ON THE STREET — THE STREET WALKERS— THE ELECTRIC LIGHT — THE MIDNIGHT HOUR — BUSINESS ON BROADWAY. I34

CHAPTER IX.

THE BROADWAY STAGES.

POPULARITY OF THIS MODE OF CONVEYANCE — A CHEAP PLEASURE—DESCRIPTION OF THE VARI- OUS LINES — THE STAGES AS REGARDS COMFORT — THE OUTSIDE SEATS—" KNOCKING DOWN IN BY-GONE days"— THE PATENT CASH BOX SYSTEM— THE " SPOTTERS "—A NIGHT RIDE WITH JEHU— THE " BOSS " ON THE WATCH— MYSTERIOUS SIGNALS— SKILL OF THE STAGE DRIVERS — A STAGE DRIVER PHOTOGRAPHED — SUFFERINGS OF THE DRIVERS — UPS AND DOWNS OF THE CRAFT— THE MUTUAL BENEFIT ASSOCIATION 157

CONTENTS. IX

CHAPTER X.

THE FIFTH AVENUE.

FIFTH AVENUE THE CENTRE OP FASHION AND WEALTH — DESCRIPTION OP THE STREET — A GRAND PANORAMA — LOWER FIFTH AVENUE — ENCROACHMENTS OF BUSINESS — FOURTEENTH STREET — THE " SWALLOW TAIL" DEMOCRACY — AMONG THE PIANO MAKERS — CHICKKKING HALL — CHURCHES — CLUBS AND ART GALLERIES — TWENTY-THIRD STREET — DELMONICo's — THE ASTOR RESIDENCES — STEWART'S MARBLE PALACE — A REGION OF BROWN STONE — UPPER FIFTH AVENUE — THE HOTELS — THE CATHEDRAL — THE VANDERBILT MANSIONS — ALONG THE CENTRAL PARK — THE LENOX LIBRARY — THE FIFTH AVENUE MANSIONS — HOMES OF WEALTH AND LUXURY^HOW THEY ARE FITTED UP — FIFTH AVENUE ON NEW YEAr's NIGHT — LIFE IN FIFTH AVENUE — THE WHIRL OF DISSIPATION — WHATITCOSTS — THE STRUGGLE FOR SHOW — THE " NEWLY RICH " — DARK SIDE OF FIFTH AVENUE LIFE — THE SKELETONS — FIFTH AVENUE HUSBANDS AND WIVES — THE CHILDREN — "ALL IS NOT GOLD THAT GLITTERS." l6s

CHAPTER XL THE ELEVATED RAILROADS.

INCON^'ENIENCES OF OLD-STYLE TRAVEL — PLANS FOR RAPID TRANSIT — THE FIRST ELEVATED RAILROAD — THE PRESENT SY'STEM — THE METROPOLITAN AND NEW YORK ELEVATED ROADS — THE MANHATTAN COMPANY — DESCRIPTION OF THE ROADS — HOW THEY ARE BUILT — MODE OF OPERATIONS — STATIONS — EMPLOYEES — RAPID TRAINS — ADVANTAGES OF THE SYSTEM — ITS DRAWBACKS — IMMENSE TRAFFIC — RESULTS OF THE ELEVATED SYSTEM — RAPID GROWTH OF THE UPPER PART OF THE CITY — A RIDE ON THE ELEVATED RAILROADS — THE NIGHT TRAINS —FROM THE BATTERY TO HARLEM BY NIGHT I78

CHAPTER Xn.

SOCIETY.

THE VARIOUS CLASSES OP SOCIETY — THE BEST OP ALL — THE "OLD KNICKERBOCKERS" — A HEAVY SET OF SWELLS — RICHES AND CULTURE COMBINED— THE NEWLY RICH — THE CONTROLLING ELEMENT — HOW SHODDY GETS INTO SOCIETY — THE POWER OF MONEY — FASHIONABLE SNOB- BERY — FROM THE TENEMENT HOUSE TO THE FIFTH AVENUE MANSION^MANIA FOR COATS OF ARMS — HOW BOSS TWEED WAS VICTIMIZED — SUDDEN APPEARANCES AND DISAPPEAR- ANCES IN SOCIETY — " RICHES HAVE WINGS " — A FAILURE AND A TRIUMPH — WHAT IT COSTS — MONEY THE ONE THING NEEDFUL — EXTRAVAGANCE OF NEW YORK SOCIETY — LOVE OF DRESS — A FASHIONABLE LADY's WARDROBE — FOLLIES OF THE MEN — PASSION FOR THE LEG BUSI- NESS — FASHIONABLE ENTERTAINMENTS — THE END OF EXTRAVAGANT CAREERS — THE SKELE- TONS SOMETIMES COME OUT OF THEIR CLOSETS— FASHIONABLE BALLS AND PARTIES — HOW THEY ARE GIVEN — INVITATIONS — BALL ROOM SCENES — THE SUPPERS — A SWELL CONVERSATION — FASHIONABLE THIEVES — AN ARISTOCRATIC SNEAK THIEF — HOW A BROKER KEPT HIS PLACE IN SOCIETY — A detective's EXPERIENCE IN FASHIONABLE LIFE — THE PRETTY WIDOW AND THE LACES^FASHIONABLE RECEPTIONS — WEDDINGS IN HIGH LIFE — ARRANGED ON A PECU- NIARY BASIS— MONEY THE ATTRACTION — HOW HEARTS ARE BOUGHT AND SOLD — THE WED- DING FESTIVITIES — GUARDING THE BRIDAL PRESENTS — WHAT IT ALL COSTS — FASHIONABLE DEATH — ONLY THE RICH CAN AFFORD TO DIB IN NEW YORK — COST OF A FASHIONABLE FUNERAL — INTERESTING DETAILS I95

CHAPTER Xni.

THE STREET RAILWAYS.

THE PRESENT STREET-RAILWAY SYSTEM — IMMENSE BUSINESS DONE BY THE SURFACE ROADS — EXPENSES AND RECEIPTS — HOW THE ELEVATED ROADS HAVE AFFECTED THE HORSE RAIL- WAYS — DISCOMFORTS OF THE STREET CARS — THE CONDUCTORS AND DRIVERS — STORY OF A conductor's lot — HARD WORK AND POOR PAY — KNOCKING DOWN — HOW IT IS DONE — BEAT- ING THE BELL-PUNCH. 238

X CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIV.

SIXTH AVENUE.

RAPID ADVANCE OF SIXTH AVKNUE IN PROSPERITY-DESCRIPTION OF THE STREET-THE LOWER PORTION-THE TENEMENT HOUSES-FRENCH FLATS-THE ELEVATED RAILROAD AND ITS STATIONS-A BUSY SCENE-SIXTH-AVENUE STORES-" MACEY's "-THE JEFFERSON MARKET POLICE COURT-BOOTH'S THEATRE-THE MASONIC TEMPLE-" THE TABERNACLE"-SIXTH AVENUE BY NIGHT-A CHANGE OF SCENE-THE STREET-WALKERS-BRAZEN VICE-THE FRENCH WOMEN-SNARING A VICTIM-SHAMEFUL SCENES ON THE AVENUE-THE STREET A TERROR TO DECENT PEOPLE-TIIE ROUGHS-SIXTH-AVENUE OYSTER HOUSES AND BEER SA- LOONS-SCENE IN A FLASH SALOON-A YOUTHFUL CRIMINAL-THE DETECTIVE'S PRIZE- SIXTH AVENUE AFTER MIDNIGHT-A DRUNKEN SINGER-" IN THE SWEET BYE-AND-BYE ' - NO EFFORT MADE TO CHECK THE EVIL ^5°

CHAPTER XV.

COACHING DAY.

MEMORIES OF BYGONE DAYS-STAGE COACHING IN FORMER YEARS-REVIVAL OF COACHING IN NEW YORK-COLONEL KANE'S ENTERPRISE-THE " TALLY HO "-A HANDSOME SUCCESS-SOCIETY ADOPTS COACHING AS THE" CORRECT THING "-THBCOACHING CLUB ORGANIZED-COACHING BAY— THE ANNUAL PARADE— A BRILLIANT SIGHT =5

CHAPTER XVI.

THE STREETS OF NEW YORK.

MADISON AVENUE-MILES OF BROWN STONE-PARK AVENUE-LEXINGTON AVENUE-THIRTY- FOURTH AND FIFTY-SEVENTH STREETS— MAGNIFICENT RESIDENCES— THIRD AVENUE THK GREAT HIGHWAY OF THE EAST SIDE— EIGHTH AVENUE THE SMALL TRADERS' PARADISE— THB SATURDAY NIGHT MARKET-TWENTY-THIRD AND FOURTEENTH STREETS-DISAPPEARANCE OP LANDMARKS-CHANGES IN THE CHARACTER OF THE STREETS-A GLANCE AT TWENTY-THIRD STREET TO-DAY-" THE BEGGARS' PARADISE "-STREET CHARACTERS-A YOUNG IMPOSTOR- KICKED FROM A HORSE CAR INTO A HOME-BLEECKER STREET-LIFE IN BOHEMIA-A STREET WHERE NO QUESTIONS ARE ASKED-GRAND STREET-CHATHAM STREET-THE CHILDREN OF ISRAEL AND THEIR WAYS-FULTON STREET-NASSAU STREET-A CROWDED NEIGHBORHOOD- PECULIARITIES OF THE STREET-PINE STREET-AMONG THE MONEYED MEN-WEST AND SOUTH STREETS— ALONG THE WATER SIDE— BUSY SCENES 2 5

CHAPTER XVII.

DIVORCES WITHOUT PUBLICITY.

OUEKR ADVERTISEMENTS-THK "DIVORCE RING "-ITS FIELD OF OPERATIONS-THE DIVORCE LAWYER-WHO HE IS-HEADQUARTERS OF THE MEMBERS OF THE RING-SCENE IN A LAW- YER'S OFFICE-A RICH CLIENT-" OFF WITH THE OLD LOVE AND ON WITH THE NEW"-A CHARACTERISTIC CASE-" THE EASIEST THING IN THE WORLD TO GET A DIVORCe"-WEST- ERN DIVORCES-HOW A MERCHANT MADE A MISTRESS OF HIS WIFE-WHO ARE THE CLIENTS —COST OF A DIVORCE-HOW IT IS MANAGED-THE REFEREE SYSTEM-SPOTTING A HUSBAND- MANUFACTURING EVIDENCE-THE " OLD MAN " ENTRAPPED-PROFESSIONAL WITNESSES- THE DIVORCE LAWYER'S SYSTEM OF DRUMMING UP BUSINESS-DIRTY WORK FOR TEN PER CENT -SERVING A SUMMONS-A MOCKERY OF JUSTICE-POWER OF THE RING-TKE COURTS

... 201

AND BAR AFRAID TO BREAK IT UP

CHAPTER XVIII.

CHRISTMAS IN NEW YORK.

^REPARATIONS FOR CHRISTMAS-HOLIDAY APPEARANCE OF THE CITV-STREET SCENES-BUSINESS BOOMING-SCENESINTHECITY BY NIGHT-A NOVEL SIGHT ON THE ELEVATED RAILROAD TRAINS-BUSY TIMES IN THE MARKETS-THE TURKEYS-TRINITY CHIMES-MIDNIGHT SER- VICES-CHRISTMAS DAY-HOW IT IS OBSERVED IN NEW YORK-CHRISTMAS WITH THE POOR.

CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER XIX.

PUBLIC BUILDINGS.

THE CITY HALL — THE GOVERNOR'S ROOM — THE COUNTY COURT HOUSE — REMINISCENCES OF THB " TWEED ring" — THE HALL OF RECORDS — THE UNITED STATES SUB-TREASURY — THE GREAT VAULTS — HOW UNCLE SAM'S MONEY IS GUARDED — THE ASSAY OFFICE — THE CUSTOM HOUSE— A NOBLE EDIFICE — THE BUSINESS OF THE PORT OF NEW YORK — DUTIES OF OFFICIALS — THB BARGE OFFICE — PASSING THROUGH THE CUSTOM HOUSE — CUSTOM HOUSE BROKERS — TAM- MANY HALL — THE TAMMANY SOCIETY — POLITICAL ORGANIZATION — "BOSS KELLY " — THE COOPER UNION — WORK OF THE INSTITUTION — THE BIBLE HOUSE — A GREAT WORK DONE — THE NATIONAL ACADEMY OF DESIGN — HOW THE SCHOOLS ARE CONDUCTED — ANNUAL EXHIBI- TIONS^THE YOUNG MEN's CHRISTIAN ASSOCIATION BUILDING — THE LECTURE ROOM — A REFUGE FOR Y'OUNG MEN — THE GRAND CENTRAL RAILROAD DEPOT — INTERNAL ARRANGE- MENTS — THE CAR HOUSE — THE FOURTH AVENUE TUNNELS. 2(y6

CHAPTER XX.

NEW YEAR'S CALLS.

NEW York's great festal day — preparations for new year's day — the hair-dressers'

ROUNDS — RECEPTION CARDS — HOW THEY ARE ISSUED — JOINT RECEPTIONS — THE CARD-BAS- KET AND ITS MEANING — LADIES' TOILETS — A CHANCE FOR REFORM — THE FIRST CALLERS — THE VETERANS — ADVANTAGES OF A LIST — SCENES TOWARD NIGHTFALL — TOO MUCH PUNCH — MRS. B.'S RECEPTION — A SWEET FINALE — NEW YEAR IN THE KITCHEN — HOW THE SALOONS CELEBRATE THE DAY — REFRESHMENTS AND PUNCH FOR ALL — NEW YORK WITH A HEAD- ACHE — ladies' DAY. 320

CHAPTER XXI.

AMONG THE BULLS AND BEARS OF WALL STREET.

DESCRIPTION OF WALL STREET — VALUE OF REAL ESTATE — ENORMOUS RENTS — ORIGIN OF THE NAME OF THE STREET — NOTABLE BUILDINGS — TRANSACTIONS OF THE STREET — THE SCENE AT NOON — THE STOCK EXCHANGE — THE LONG ROOM — OUTSIDE DEALERS — THE REGULAR BOARD — HOW BUSINESS IS CONDUCTED IN THE EXCHANGE — THE VICE-PRESIDENT — RULES OF THE EXCHANGE — GOOD FAITH EXACTED OF ITS MEMBERS — THE GOVERNMENT BOARD — CHARACTERISTIC SCENES — THE VAULTS AND THEIR TREASURES — THE TELEGRAPH INSTRU- MENTS — THE "tickers" — LIFE OF A STOCK BROKER — SPORTS OF THE EXCHANGE — THE CLEARING HOUSE AND ITS OPERATIONS — CURBSTONE BROKERS — RECKLESS TRANSACTIONS — STOCK SPECULATIONS — BUY'ING AND SELLING ON COMMISSION — UNCERTAINTIES OF THB STREET — HOW FORTUNES ARE MADE AND LOST ON WALL STREET — STOCK GAMBLING — WHO ARE THE SPECULATORS — A DARING BROKER — " BLACK FRIDAY " — HOW AN OPERATOR WAS RUINED — STOCK SWINDLERS — SHARPERS IN WALL STREET — THE COMBINATION SYSTEM — A BAREFACED SWINDLE — ACTION OF THE GENERAL GOVERNMENT — HOW BOGUS OPERATORS FLEECE UNSUSPECTING CUSTOMERS — AN INSIDE VIEW OF THE COMBINATION SYSTEM — ENORMOUS PROFITS — THE SWINDLE EXPOSED — A WARNING TO WOULD-BE SPECULATORS. 33O

CHAPTER XXII.

ALONG THE WHARVES.

WRETCHED CHARACTER OF THE WHARVES— PLAN FOR A NEW SYSTEM— THE NORTH RIVER FRONT — THE RAILROAD PIERS — THE FERRY HOUSES — THE FOREIGN STEAMSHIPS — THE FLOATING PALACES OF THE HUDSON AND LONG ISLAND SOUND— THE BETHEL— THE BO.\T STORES— THE GRAIN ELEVATORS— THE EAST RIVER FRONT— SAILING VESSELS— THE SHIP YARDS— THE DRY DOCKS— THE CANAL BOATS— SCENES ON BOARD— THE FRUIT TRADE— THE FISH MARKET— SCENFS ALONG THE WHARVES— ACCIDENTS— THE RESCUE STATIONS— THE VOLUNTEER LIFE-SAVING CORPS — " NAN, THE LIFE SAVER." 36°

Xll

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXIII.

POLICE.

ORIGIN OF THE NEW YORK POLICE FORCE — THE OLD TIME POLICEMEN — "OLD HAYES — INCREASE OF CRIME — GEORGE W. MATSELL — THE FIRST REGULAR POLICE FORCE — OPPOSITION TO IT — THE METROPOLITAN POLICE JORCK ORGANIZED — THE MUNICIPAL POLICE — POLICE HEADQUARTERS — THE COMMISSIONERS — SUPERINTENDENT WALLING — ^THB SUBORDINATE OFFICERS — THE PATROLMEN — QUALIFICATIONS OF A POLICEMAN — THE BROADWAY SQUAD — DUTIES OF THE FORCE — OMNIPRESENCE OF THE POLICE — POWER OVER THE ROUGHS — DAN- GERS OF A policeman's LIFE — DARING EXPLOITS OF CAPTAINS WILLIAMS AND ALLAIRE — FIGHTING A MOB — FEAR OF THE " LOCUSTS " — UNIFORM OF THE FORCE — HOW THE CITY IS PATROLLED — HOURS OF DUTY — A SINGULAR POLICEMAN — HOW PETE JOINED THE FORCE — HIS SERVICES — ARRESTS — THE STATION HOUSES — INTERNAL ARRANGEMENTS — THE " BUM- MERS' ROOMS " — HOW VAGRANTS ARE LODGED — THE SERGEANT IN CHARGE — A NIGHT IN A POLICE STATION— A FEMALE TRAMP — " DRUNK AND DISORDERLY" — A CASE OF DISTRESS — A FRUITLESS ERRAND— A NEW WAY TO GET HOME AT NIGHT — SEARCH FOR A MISSING HUSBAND — A POLITICAL ROW — YOUNG BLOODS ON A LARK — COSTLY FUN — A WOULD-BE-SUICIDE — BROUGHT BACK FROM THE GRAVE — A JOLLY TRAMP — A GHASTLY SPECTACLE — MASKERS IN A STATION HOUSE — THE MOUNTED POLICE — A SENSIBLE HORSE — THE HARBOR POLICE — A HARD LIFE — PROVISION FOR DISABLED POLICEMEN AND THEIR FAMILIES 368

CHAPTER XXIV.

FERRIES.

NEW York's only means of communication with the main land — number of ferries —

THE ferry boats — CROSSING IN A FOG — ANNOYANCES OF FERRY TRAVEL — THE FERRY HOUSES — A MOONLIGHT RIDE ON A FERRY BOAT — A SUICIDE — ACCIDENTS. . . . 404

CHAPTER XXV.

THE PRISONS OF NEW YORK.

THE TOMBS — DESCRIPTION OF THE BUILDING — THE INTERIOR — THE "BRIDGE OF SlGHs" — PLACE OF EXECUTION — THE MALE PRISON — THE CELLS — THE WOMEN's PRISON — THE "bummers' hall" — THE WARDEN'S OFFICE — THE "SWELL CELLs" — THE BOYS' PRISON — RELIGIOUS SERVICES — GOVERNMENT OF THE TOMBS — WARDEN FINN — THE MATRON — A PRISON OF DETENTION — NOTED ESCAPES FROM THE TOMES — " BLACK MARI.\ " — THE POLICE COURT — HOW PRISONERS ARE DISPOSED OF — THE COURT OF SPECIAL SESSIONS — THE "tomes shysters" — LUDLOW STREET JAIL — THE SHERIFF'S PRISON — IMPRISONMENT FOR DEBT — CAPTIVE MILITIAMEN — FEDERAL PRISONERS — EXTORTIONS PRACTICED UPON PRISONERS — HOW THE DEPUTY SHERIFFS BLEED THEIR VICTIMS 409

CHAPTER XXVI.

PUBLIC SQUARES.

THE BATTERY PARK — ITS HISTORY — THE BATTERY IN OLD TIMES — ITS PRESENT CONDITION — A DELIGHTFUL BREATHING PLACE — THE BARGE OFFICE — THE BOWLING GREEN — THE CITY HALL PARK — TOMPKINS SQUARE — SQUANDERING THE PUBLIC FUNDS — A FINE PARK RUINED — WASHINGTON SQUARE — UNION SQUARE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS — THE " SLAVE MARKET" — STUYVESANT SQUARE — MADISON SQUARE — A DELIGHTFUL PLEASURE-GROUND — MAGNIFI- CENT SURROUNDINGS — GRAMMERCY PARK — RESERVOIR SQUARE — MOUNT MORRIS SQUARE — MORNINGSIDE PAEK— RIVERSIDE PARK. 422

CONTENTS. XUl

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE PAWNBROKERS AND THEIR WAYS.

THE SIGN OF THE THREE BALLS— LAWS RESPECTING PAWNBROKERS— HOW LICENSES ARE ISSI'ED— DISREGARDOFTHELAWEYTHEPAWNBROKERS— SOURCES OF PROFIT— EXCESSIVE. INTEREST- STORAGE CHARGES— SALES OF UNREDEEMED GOODS— WHO ARE THE PAWNBROKERS- THE JEWS— A DISHONEST CLASS— SUCKING THE LIFE-BLOOD OF THE POOR— HOW CUSTOMERS ARE SWINDLED— CHARACTERISTIC SCENE IN A PAWN SHOP— THE JEWs' ONE PER CENT.— AN INSIDE VIEW OF THE BUSINESS— DRUMMING UP CUSTOM 43^

CHAPTER XXVIII.

THE CENTRAL PARK.

PLANS FOR A GRAND PARK— CHOICE OF A SITE— THE PARK COMMISSION ORGANIZED— DTFFICUL- TIES IN THE WAY— THE WORK BEGUN— THE RESULT— THE CENTRAL PARK OF TO-DAY— COST OF THE PARK— THE UPPER AND LOWER PARKS— THE ENTRANCES— THE POND— THE OLD ARSENAL— THE MENAGERIE— THE METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATORY— THE BALL GROUND— THE DAIRY-AMUSEMENTS FOR CHILDREN-THE GREEN-THE SHEEPFOLD-THE SEVENTH REGIMENT STATUE— STATUE OF WEBSTER— THE MARBLE ARCH— THE MALL— STATUES ON THE MALL— THE PLAZA— THE VINE-COVERED WALK— THE ARCADE— THE TERRACE— THE ESPLAN- ADE-THE BETHESDA FOUNTAIN-THE LAKE-BOATING-SKATING SCENES-THE CONSERVA- TORY WATER— THE RAMBLE-THE CAVE-THE BELVEDERE— THE CROTON RESERVOIRS-THE UPPER PARK— HARLEM BEER— THE OLD POWDER HOUSE— THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF .ART-THE DI CESNOLA COLLECTION— THE OBELISK— A VENERABLE RELIC OF THE ANCIENT WORLD— THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY— THE TRANSVERSE ROADS— A TRI- UMPH OF ENGINEERING— THE PARK COMMISSION— THE POLICE REGULATIONS— PARK TRAFFIC.

CHAPTER XXIX.

TRINITY CHURCH.

'OLD TRINITY"— THE THREE CHURCHES-DESCRIPTION OF TRINITY CHURCH-THE INTERIOR- THE ALTAR AND REREDOS-THE WINDOWS— THE SERVICES— FINE MUSIC— DAILY SIGHTS IN TRINITY-THE SPIRE-THB CHIMES-VIEW FROM THE SPIRE-THE CHURCHYARD-NOTED TOMBS-TRINITY PARISH-THE CHAPELS-WEALTH OF THE PARISH-ITS NOBLE WORK. 469

CHAPTER XXX.

THE LOST SISTERHOOD.

PREVALENCE OF PROSTITUTION IN NEW YORK— POLICE STATISTICS— FIRST-CLASS HOUSES— THE PROPRIETRESS — THE INMATES — THE ARISTOCRACY OF SHAME — THE VISITORS- VISITS OF MARRIED MEN-AVERAGE LIFE OF A FASHIONABLE PROSTITUTE-THE NEXT STEP— THE SECOND-CLASS HOUSES— TERRORS OF THESE PLACES— THE GREENE STREET BAGNIOS-GOING DOWN INTO THE DEPTHS-THE NEXT STEP-THE WATER STREET HELLS —AVERAGE LIFE OF A PROSTITUTE-" THE WAGES OF SIN IS DEATH "—HOW YOUNG GIRLS ARE TEMPTED INTO SIN— EFFORTS TO SAVE AN ERRING DAUGHTER— THE STREET WALK- ERS— THE PANEL HOUSES— HOW MEN ARE ROBBED AND MURDERED IN THESE HOUSES— THE CONCERT SALOONS— THE WAITER GIRLS— THE DANCE HALLS— THE " BUCKINGHAM "— THE "cREMORNe"— BUCKINGHAM BALLS— ASSIGNATION HOUSES— PERSONALS— THE MID- NIGHT MISSION — REFORMATORY ESTABLISHMENTS — ABORTIONISTS — THE WICKEDEST

WOMAN IN NEW YORK.

XIV

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXXI.

JAY GOULD.

EARLY LIFE OF THE GREAT FINANCIER — PERSONAL APPEARANCE — KNOWLEDGE OF LAW — ENTERS THE ERIE ROAD — BLACK FRIDAY — HOW GOULD CAME OUT OF IT — A SHREWD GAME IN "ERIE" — HIS WEALTH — ATTACKED IN WALL STREET — HIS METHOD OF OPER- ATING 496