Peru illustrated : or, incidents of travel and exploration in the land of the Incas

Front matter

If!

Aii.AsS»^'

PEEIJ

Chapter I. Introductoet

Mr. Prcscott on the in*^ Monuments. — Influence of his Words. — The Author's Aspt rations and yur»*w**s. — Threatened with Blindness. — Appointed United Statef Comuiissionfp *^ P*.ru. — Restoration to Sight. — (Commencement of Explorations, — Extent ot *>^^ Region explored. — Plans, Drawings, and Photographs. — Value of tlie Mat*»»n*^l ^cured. — General Survey of the Inca Empire. — Its Boundaries.— Physical i.;i»srActeristics. — Lake and River Systems. — Mountain Ranges. — The Coast Dc««H. — Fertile Valleys. — The Inhabitants of the Valleys. — The Cordillera, — The i»<»opoblado. — Distinction between the Cordillera and the Andes. — The Basin ^ Tjticaca. — Only two other Similar Basins in America. — Lake AuUagas.— Lake '/''ticaca. — Its Sacred Islands. — The Bolsones, or Valleys. — The BoUon of Cuzco — The Montana. — The Incas and the Peoples of the Montana. — Probable Po»»Ktion of the Inca Empire. — Divisions of the Ancient Inhabitants of Peru.— TH«>*- Character and Institutions determined by Physical Conditions. — Design of ti-^Work. Page I

CHAPTER IL

NEW YORK TO LIMA.

y^ York to Panama. — ^The Remains of George R. Gliddon. — The Bay of Panama. —Embarking for Peru. — The Island of Taboga. — Under Way. — The British Steam« Ihip Company. — Dead Man's Island. — The Island of Puna. — The Gulf and City ^f Guayaquil. — Balsas. — Pine-apples.— The Rio Guayas. — Las Bodegas. — Along the Coast. — Paita. — Arrival at Callao. — Disembarking. — The Harbor. — Sea-lions. —Aspect of the Town. — The Plaza. — Merchandise. — Loungers and Lazy Officials. — Hotel de la Marina. — The Road to Lima. — First Impressions of the City. — The Hotel Morin. — ^New Quarters •. . . • 17

Chapter III. Lima ^the City Of The Kings

The City of the Kings. — Its Foundation and Aims. — ^Early Civil and Ecclesiastical Supremacy. — Historical Keminiscences. — Ancient and Modern Sgurces of Wealth viii CONTENTS.

—Geographical Position.— Climate and Temperature.— Fogs and Mists.— Topographical Situation.— Prevailing Winds.— Health.— Origin of the Name of Lima.

The Walls. — Municipal Divisions. — Population. — The River Rimac. — The

Bridge. — Style of Architecture. — Mode of Erection. — Balconies, Courts, and

Koofs. Poultry and Buzzards. — Furniture and Pictures. — The Governor's Pal-

ace. — Peruvian Soldiers. — The Cabildo and other Public Buildings. — The Cathedral.— Other Churches. — The Plaza Mayor.— The Arcades. — Fountain, with Statue of Fame. — The Plaza de la Constitucion and Equestrian Statue of Bolivar. — The Paseo of the Barefoot Friars. — The Alameda de Acho. — Monument to Columbua. —Public Institutions. — The General Cemetery.— Flower Gardens. — The Feast of Roses. — Amusements. — Lima under the Viceroys. — Improvements since the Independence.— The Central Market. — Varieties of Fruits. — Fish. — Meats. — The Abattoir. — Poultry. — Cookery. — Puchero. — Chupe. — Picantes of various Kinds. — Other Dishes. — ^Dulces. — Dietetic Maxims.— A Dinner with a Hidalgo.— A Diplo. matic Dinner. Page 84

CHAPTEE IV.

PACHACAMAC.

Vialt to the Ruins.- The Ancient Sacred City.— Pachacamac— Miguel Estete's Ac count of the Famous Shrine.— The Spoils taken by the Spaniards.— Sugar Estate of San Pedro. — Condors.— Present Aspect of Pachacamac- El Castillo. — Mamacuna.— The Arch.— A Vast Burial-place.- Mummies.— Ancient Tenement-house.

The Family Tomb.— The Bodies.— Articles found with them.— Tweezers.—

Blanket.— Shroud.— Spindle.— Wallet.— Girl's Work-box, and Contents.— Boy's gUng.— Dried Parrot— Child's Rattle.— Vases and Pottery. 62

CHAPTER V. EUmS IN THE VICINITY OF LIMA

Th« Tftlley of Cailete and its Ruins.— The Palace of El Rey Inca.— Ruins of Herval. ^Temple at Magdalena.—Limatambo.— Ruins in the Valley of the Chillon.— Burial-places of the Ancient Poor.— Relics found in Graves.— Ruins of Cajamarquilla.— ^Exploring and Surveying. — Meet the Robber, Rossi Arci. — ^His SubsequtntFate ®*

Chapter VI. Xjp The Coast To Tritxillo

Btarting for Paita.— The Rocky Coast.— Sea-lions.— The Oasis and Port of Huacho. —The Town.— Rock-salt.— How it is formed.— Supe and Patavilca.— The Rio de la Barranca.— Ruins of Paramanca.— Traditions.— Ancient Works on La Horca. — Huarmey or Guarmey.— Casraa.— Bays of Simanco and Ferrol.— The Valley of Chimboto.— Ancient Monuments.— Silver Mine of Micat6.— Port of Santa.— The Rio Santa. — ^Ridge crowned with Ruins.— Huaca near Santa. — Ride to Santa. — The City.— Guano Islands of Guanape.— Eagles, Pelicans, and Vultures.— Pprt <4

OONTENtS. li

Huanchaco. — Singular Craft. — Sardinas. — Getting ashore. — The Prefect of Tnixillo. — Departure for Truxillo. — The Grand Chimu. — Beautiful Lizards. — Entrance toTruxiUo Page »8

Chapter VII. Truxillo — Reconnoissance Of Grand Chimtj

Truxillo. — Hotel del Comercio. — The Chinese Fonda. — Churches, Convents, and Public Buildings. — Colonel La Rosa. — His Collections of Antiques. — Supposes the Author to be in Search of Hidden Treasure. — Reconnoissance of Chimu. — Hamlet of Miraflores. — The Great Aqueduct. — General Survey of the Ruins.— The Huacas, Walls, and Gardens. — Girls' Tombs without the Walls. — Azequias. — Remains of a Village of the Excavators of El Obispo. — How the Huaca was built. — A Solitary Scorpion. — Almost under Arrest. — Unearthed Palace. — The Royal Tombs. — El Castillo.— The Dead of a Great Battle.— Skulls of Various Races. — Cemetery of Girls. — The Prison. — Huaca of Toledo. — Miles of Graves. — ^The Watering-place of Huaman. — Return to Truxillo.— Photographic Annoy- •Xkces 11*

CHAPTER YIII.

THE RUINS AT MOCHE.

Ride to Moche. — Diminished Area of Cultivation. — Alleged Effects of Earthquakes. — Incident on the Rio Moche. — The Indian Pueblo. — The Gobernador. — Many-horned Sheep. — The Jiadies of the Family. — Primitive Spinning Apparatus. — The Church. — Reception by the Cura. — Present and Past Condition of his Flock. — Ruined by having the Right of Suffrage. — The Cura's Lamentations. — His Opinion upon Treasure-hunting. — Offers to guide us to the Ruins. — The Ride. — Temple of the Sun. — ^View from the Summit. — The Great Pyramid. — Farewell to the Cura. — Subsequent Exploration of the Pyramid. — Its Form and Dimensions. — Alleged Secret Passages. — A Modern Adit. — Probable Purpose of the Structure. —Visit to the Prefect of Truxillo. — His Magnificent Mansion. — His Want of Hospitality 126

CHAPTEE IX.

EXPLORATIONS AT GRAND CHIMU.

Bide to the Ruins. — Hall of the Arabesques.— The First Corridor. — ^Rgurcs in Stuo- 00. — The Second Corridor. — Vaults and Store-rooms. — Cotton Mattresses. — An Upper Edifice. — Walls, Passages, and Chambers. — The Furnace. — Vessels of Gold and Silver. — Many Relics melted down. — Prospects left for Research. — CoDJeetural Features of the Structure. — Exterior Walls pi^bably Decioratod.

CONTENTS.

— The Destruction by Treasure - hunters. — The Necropolis of Chimu. — Niches with Human Remains. — Fine Cloths of Cotton and Alpaca Wool. — Silver Ornaments attached to Fabrics. — Decorated Skulls. — A Mysterious Structure. — Covered Tomb. — Our Way of Life at Chimu. — Plans for the Future. — Ruins Described by Rivero and Tschudi. — The "First Palace." — Ornamented Court and Hall. — Forms of Ornamentation. — The Great Reservoir. — El Presidio, or the Prison. — An Evidence of Former Civilization. — The " Second Palace." — Huaca of Misa. — Barrios, or Wards. — Sub -barrios. — The Cabildo, or Municipal House. — Dwellings of the People. — Other Squares. — Reservoirs and Gardens.-^ Huacas of Las Conchas and Toledo. — ^Ancient Smelting -works. — Evidences of Trade Localities Page 185

CHAPTER X.

LEGENDARY HISTORY OF THE CHIMUS.

Accounts by Feijoo and Garcilasso de la Vega : Extent of their Territory. — ^Thclr Chief, Chimu-Canchu. — The Invasion by the Inca Yupanqui. — Stubborn Resistance. — Final Submission of Chimu-Canchu. — Beneficent Measures of the Inca. — Relation by Montesinos : The Inca Empire threatened by the Chimus. — Wars between the Chimus and Incas, from the Eleventh to the Twenty-fifth. — The Chimua conquered by Topa- Yupanqui, the Ninety-seventh Inca. — Relation by Balboa : War between the Inca Capac- Yupanqui and Chimu-Capac. — The Chimus sa'ojugated by Topa-Inca. — The Account by De Leon. — Ditft^r^nt Customs and Tlmects among the Chimus. — Some Legends of their own Origin. — The Idol !.ip..iip^liec at Chot. — Its Removal, and the Consequence^?. — Accession of ('iiiir. . *^;»j)ac, who was conquered by the Incas. — The Ancient Language of tlie Chi'./^r .st'U spoken at Eteng. •-^Different from the Quichua and that of the Incas. .^ 165

CHAPTER XT.

THE ART, CUSTOMS, AND RELIGION OF THE CHIMUS.

Skill of the Chimu Artificers. — Their Productions easily R ^jcognized. — Their ConTea* tional Symbols. — ^Animals, Birds, and Reptiles.— The Lance as an Emblem of Royalty. — Vases and other Works in Gold and Silver. — Groups of Figures. — Some Remarkable Examples.— Implements and Weapons.— Their Chief Excellence in Pottery. — Various Forms of Vases and other Vessels. — Ornamentation of these. — Pictures on Pottery. — Musical Instruments and Performers. — Representations of the Human Head. — Of Animals and Fruit. — Sacred Character of their Ceramic Art.— The Best Source of our Knowledge of their Religion. — Symbolical Character of their Religion. — The Symbols of the Four Elements. — A Debasing Fetichism coincident with their Purer Religion. — Padre Arriaga's Book on the Extirpation of the Idolatry of Peru.— His Accomit of their Various Sciierstltions. — Their Village, Household, and Personal Idols. — Wo^^hi]t ct Ance<«ri. — Results of Arriaga's Efforts to extirpate Idolatry. — fUe Voi-et Religion of the Chimug. — Worship of the Original, Pui-e, lacsjipcieal l?«*Jn2 19Q

CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE XII.

EXPLORATIONS NEAR THE COAST.

farewell to Chlmu. — Voyage down the Coast. — Landing at Samanco. — A Day atid a Night there. — Set out for the Estate San Jacinto. — Curious Megalithic Rock. — Ruins of Huacatambo. — The Fortaleza de Tierra Firme. — Rich Vineyards. — - The Huaca de la Culebra. — Sun-worship and Serpent-worship. — Arrival at San Jacinto. — The Hacienda. — A Renovated Estate on the Verge of the Desert.-— Ancient Ruins. — Lines of Walls on the Mountain Side. — Ancient and Modem Irrigation.— Cultivation of Cotton. — A Mountain Ride. — El Palacio del Padrejon. ^The Village of Mora. — Estate of Motoc&che. — Four Terraced Pyramids. — ^Another Stone Work. — Vases in the Walls. — Return to San Jacinto. — ^A Midnight Adventure. — ^Voyage resumed. — Coast Ruins. — Calaveras or Chancayillo. — Fortress of Quisque. — Pyramidal Structure in the Valley of Santa. — Ruins of Alpacote.— Ancient Works at Huanuco, as described by Raimondi. — Ancient Irriga* tion on the Coast Page 19S

CHAPTER XIII.

FROM LIMA TO TACNA.

Start for Explorations Southward. — Voyage along the Coast. — ^Islay the Port of Arequipa. — Arequipa and the Earthquake of 1868.— Author's Experiences of Earthquakes in Peru. — Arica the Port of Tacna. — The Earthquake at Arica,— A Peruvian Railway. — Tacna. — Its Architecture and Trade. — The Alameda. — The Bola de Oro. — Preparations for a Journey among the Andes. — ^Berrios, our Muleteer. — On the Way. — About Mules SUU

CHAPTER XIV.

OVER THE CORDILLERA TO TIAHTTANACO.

Equipped for the Journey. — The Tambo at Pachia. — Chupe. — The Qnebrada de Palca. — Palca. — Mule Travelling among the Mountains. — Chulpas. — An Aymar& Skull. — The Soroche. — Climbing the Crest. — La Portada. — Llamas. — ^The Alps and the Andes. — Tambos. — The Pass of Guaylillos. — Effects of the Soroche. — The Rio de Azufre. — Veruga Water.— -The Peak of Tacora. — Shot at a Vicuna. — The Tambo of Tacora.— A Hospitable Host. — La Laguna Blanca. — The Divide between the Basin of Lake Titicaca and the Pacific— In the Despoblado. — The Rio Cufio, the Boundary between Peru and Bolivia.— The Biscacha.— The Rio Maure. — ^Alptcafe.— The Pass of Chuluncayani. — An Expensive Hotel.^-Descending the Slope. -—First Signs of Cultivation. — A Cretin. — Santiago de Machaca. — The Aymarli Hat. — A Solitary Church. — Shot at a Condor. — St. Andres de Machaca.— -The Gobcmador and the Cura. — ^Fine Church. — Nasacara and its Floating Bridge. — ^Tbe

Xli CONTENTS.

Rio Desaguadero. — Our Rascally Berrios. — Jesus de Macbaca and its good Cura.. — The Crown of the Andes. — First View of Lake Titicaca. — Magnificent Panorama. — Descent to the Plain. — ^Tiahuanaco. — The Drunken Cura.^5upposed to be ft TreMure-bunter Page 23a

CHAPTER XV.

TIAHtJANAOO, THE BAALBEC OF THE NEW WOBLD.

Tiahuanaeo a Centre of Ancient Civilization. — Difficulties. — ^The Chufio Festival. — Death of my Photographer. — Studying the Art. — My Assistants. — The Edifices of Ancient Tiahuanaco. — The Ruins a Quarry for Modem Builders. — Their Extent. —The Temple.— The Fortress.— The Palace.— The Hall of Justice.— Precision of the Stonercutting. — ^Elaborate Sculptures. — Monolithic Gate-ways. — The Modem Cemetery. — ^The Sanctuary. — Symbolical Slab. — The great Monolithic Gate-way. — Its Elaborate Sculptures. — Monuments described by Cieza de Leon and D'Orbigny. — Material of the Stone-work. — How the Stone was cut. — General Resume. *— Tiahiianaco probably a Sanctuary, not a Seat of Dominion 2.72

CHAPTER XVI.

AT TIAHUANACO, AND TO THE SACRED ISLANDS.

fiupected of Treasure-hunting. — The Guardian of the Tapadas. — The Potato-feasv and Corpus Christi. — The Indian Celebration. — Music, Dancing, and Costumes. — Departure from Tiahuanaco. — Village of Guaque. — Cattle feeding in the Lake. — Tortora Bridge over the Outlet of the Lake. — Entry into the Village of Desaguaderq. — A Convivial Cura. — Hospitalities of the Caballeros and Senoritas. — Mine Host the Comandante. — Zepita. — Scenes on the Road. — Comparatively Fertile Kegipn. — ^Village of Yunguyo. — A Pressing Invitation. — ^A Dinner Compliment. — ^A Legal Luminary 802l

CHAPTEE XYII.

THE SACRED ISLANDS OF TITICACA.

Copaestbana.— Its Famous Shrine. — Saluted as Viracocha. — The Church of La Sefiora de Copacabana. — The Camarin. — Votive OflPerings. — A Pilgrimess from Spain. — The Statue of La Senora. — ^An Idol of Blue Stone formerly worshipped here. — The Fountain of the Inca. — The Ladera. — Yampapata. — Waiting for a Balsa. — Night in a Tambo. — Balsa Voyage. — Description of the Lake. — The Sa ored Island of Titicaca. — Manco Capac and Mama Ocllo here began their Mission.— ^The Sacred Grain. — ^Etymology of the Name Titicaca. — Ruins of the Temple, Convent, and Palace. — The Island of Coati. — The Island of Soto, or of Penitence.— Landing on Titicaca. — Ascending the Terraces. — The Sacked Rook of Manco Capac. — Landing-place of the Incas. — Alleged Triune Statue. — The Labyrinth.— ^Night at the Hacienda. — St. John's Fires. — The Garden of the Incas. — Tb« Batb of the Incaa.— -The P^ace of the Inca , . . SI'?

CONTENTS. Xll]

CHAPTEE XVin.

DETOUR TO PUNO.

Return to Copacabana. — Set out for Puno. — Views by the Way. — ^The Towns and their Inhabitants. — Resting-place of the Inca. — Ancient Sepulchres at Acora. — Chulpas, or Burial -towers. — Arrival at Puno. — Welcome by an American Merchant.— Lofty Situation of Puno. — Its Modern Origin. — Neighboring Silver Mines. — Story of Jose de Salcedo. — The Wool -trade of Puno. — Aspect of the Town. — Preparations for revisiting the Sacred Islands and exploring the Lake. — Our Altered and Improvised Craft. — Voyage on the Lake. — Night on the Island of Titicaca. — Sail to the Island of Coati Page 347

CHAPTEE XIX.

THE SACRED ISLAND OF COATI, AND REVISIT TO TITICAOA.

The Island of Coati, Sacred to the Moon. — Small, but Fertile. — The two Groups of Ruins. — The Gates of Purification. — Remains of Tambos. — The so-called Palace of the Sun probably the Temple of the Moon. — The Shrine of Coati. — Situation and Structure. — Interior Construction. — Curious Apartments. — Court or Corral for the Sacred Llamas and Vicunas. — Platforms and Terraces. — Magnificent View. — Origin of the Structures. — Derivation of the Name of the Island. — Priests and Vestals. — An Accident. — Titicaca revisited. — Search for the Temple of the Sun. — Statements of the Chroniclers. — Identification of the Ruins. — ^Places where the Sun was tied up. — A Lofty Terraced Promontory. — View from its Summit. — The Hamlet of Challa. — Real Historical Importance of the Island of Titicaca. — Date and Origin of its Structures. — Embark for Puno. — ^A Stormy Voyage»^«'i^^!|llt in at Escoma. — ^Ruins here. — Becalmed on the Lake. — Reach Puno ....,..» 359

CHAPTEE XX.

SILLUSTANI — ITS CHULPA8 AND 8UN<5mOLEB.

Lake Umayo — The Town of Vilque.— -Ruins of a Temple. — Sillustani. — ^Numerous Chulpas. — A Round Chulpa. — Its Construction and Arrangement. — Manner in which the Stones were raised. — A Broken Chulpa at Sillustani. — Chulpas and

the Topes of Ceylon. — The Stones cut to Plan before bemg placed in Position.

Sun -circles. — A Submerged Town and Palace. — HatuncoUa. — Hill -fortress of

Quellenata. — Chulpa at UUulloma compared with Pelasgic Tower in Italy.

Square Chulpas in Bolivia. — The Chulpas evidently Tombs. — ^Las Casas* Account of Peruvian Modes of Burial. — The Region in which they are found. — ^Aymar& not Quichua Structures jj^g

XIV CONTENTS.

CHAPTEK XXI.

FROM LAKE TITIOACA TO CUZCO.

Shores of Lake Titicaca. — Huancan^. — Quellenata. — Sondor-huasi. — Thatched Roofi. — Santa Rosa. — ^A Bull-fight. — A Condor introduced. — Attempt to send two Birds of this Species to the Coast. — Pedro Lobo's Correspondence. — Bleak Mountain Gorges. — Tambos. — The Pass of La Raya. — Descending the Mountains. — Th« Aguas Calientes. — The Valley of the Vilcanota. — Cacha and the Temple of Viracocha. — Garcilasso's Account of the Inca Viracocha. — Apparition of the Spirit of Viracocha to him. — His Miraculous Victory over the Chinchasuyas. — He erects the Temple. — Garcilasso's Account of the Temple and Statue. — Present Condition. — Dependent Structures. — Modern Potteries among the Ruins. — Gables and Windows in Inca Architecture. — Error of Humboldt and Prescott. — Niches. — Etymology of the Name Viracocha. — Tupac Amaru. — Quijijana. — Curious Ruins and Tombs. — Urcos. — The Bolson of Andahuaylillas. — Huayna Capac's Gold Chain. — A Night on Andahuaylillas. — The Inca Quarries. — Method of Quarrying. — The Fortress of Piquillacta. — Ruins of the Inca Town of Mu3ma. — The Llautu or Incarial Badge. — Muyna, an Ancient Walled Town. — Oropesa. — The Angostura Pass. — San Sebastian, with its People of the Ayllos, or Inca, Stock.. . . .Page 890

CHAPTER XXII.

CUZCO, THE crnr of the sun.

(Signification of its Name. — Its Situation. — Climate. — Historical Importance. — ^Ancient Divisions. — The Hill of Sacsahuaman. — Its Principal Structures. — Th«j Huacapata, or Great Square. — Terraces. — Cyclopean Walls. — The Stone of the Twelve Angles. — Style of Public Buildings. — Perfection of the Stone-cutting. — Error of Prescott. — Houses of more than One Story. — The Temple of the Sun, and Subsidiary Edifices. — Its Site now occupied by the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo. — The Field and Gardens of the Sun. — The Water Supply. — Profusion of Golden Decorations. — The House of the Virgins of the Sun. — The Place of Serpents and Palace of Huayna Capac. — The Palace of the Yupanquis. — Ancient Walls incorporated into Modern Buildings. — System of Palace-building by the Incas. — Schools. — Galpones. — The Public Square. — The City commanded by the Fortress of Sacsahuaman. — The Terrace of the Granaries, and Palace of the First Inca. — Honors to Agriculture. — Probable Population of Ancient Cuzco. — Its General Aspect. — Modern Cuzco. — Moorish Style of Buildings. — The Cathedral and Church of La Merced. — Cuzco superseded in Importance by Lima. — At present little known by Peruvians. — Population mostly Indians. — The \Vhite Inhabitants. — The Old Families. — Seftora Zentino and her Museum of Antiqui^ ties. — Notice of Lorenzo St. Criq, alias ** Paul Marcoy." — ^An ancient Trepanned Skull. — Paucity of Sculptures in Peru. — The Alameda.~The Panteon, or Cemeterr.--Pahlo Biliaca. — Processions and Cock-fighting. — The Dog Laws 42»

CONTENTS. XV

CHAPTEK XXIII.

6AC8AHUAMAN,

Import of the Name. — Situation of the Fortress. — The Ravine of the Rodadcro.— Aqueduct and Water - falls.— The Gate of Sand.— The Rock Rodadero.— Char, acter of the Rock. — Garcilasso's Description of the Fortress. — Plan of its Cont^truction. — System of Drainage. — Immense Stones. — Entrances. — The Round Building, and other Subsidiary Works.— Mistake of Prescott. — How the Stonea were moved. — The Piedra Cansada, or Tired Stone. — El Rodadero, and Von Tschudi's Error in respect to It. — The Seat of the Inca. — Curiously carved Stones. — Rock Seats. — Chingana, or the Labyrinth. — Contrasts between Sacsahuaman and the so-called Fortress at Tiahuanuco. — Date of the Construction of Sacsahua. man. — Modern Cuzco mostly built of its Materials. — Lamentation of a Descend* ant of the Incas over its Destruction. — Treasure-hunters and their Traditions. — Legend of Dona Maria de Esquivel Page 464

CHAPTEK XXIV.

THE VALLEY OF YUCAY. OLLANTAYTAMBO.

The Yucay the Parent Stream of the Amazon. — The Valley of Yucay. — Roada leading to It. — Chinchero and its Ruina. — The Table-land. — View of the Valley of Yucay.— Climate of the Valley. — The Andenes, or Gardens of the Incas. — Their Summer Palace. — Urubamba. — The Hacienda Umeres. — Ride to Ollantaytambo. — Ancient Cliff Cemetery. — The Bolson of Antis. — Ancient Fortifications. — ^The Governor of Ollantaytambo. — Village of Ollantaytambo. — The Ancient Fortress. — Porphyry Slabs. — The Tired Stones. — View from the Fortress. — The Hill of Flutes. — The School of the Virgins. — The Horca del Hombre and Horca de Mujer. — Inca Houses in the Village. — Plan of the Ancient Town. — ^The Present Inhabitants. — Ride to the Quarries. — Mimbres, or Suspension Bridges. — Perilous Travelling. — The Mountain Road. — Diminutive Shrines. — The Quarries. — Ollantaytambo a Frontier Town. — The Legend of OUantay 482

CHAPTER XXV.

THE VALLEY OF YUCAY. — PISAC.

EicursioD to Pisac. — The Sacred Rock at Galea. — The Circular Building.— •Serpentine Channel in the Rock. — Its Design. — Worship of Isolated Rocks. — ^The Boundary of the Inca Dominion. — The Great Frontier Fortress of Pisac. — Its Com manding Position. — The Approaches to it. — The Inti-huatana, or Solstitial Turret, the best preserved in Peru. — Other Inti-huatanas. — Garcilasio^s Account of them. — Ascent to the Fortress of Pisac. — Complex and Elaborate Character of the Works. — Auxiliary Fortifications. — ^The Burial-place.-*De8iccated Corpf6t.->» Charaotttr of Peruvian Defensive Works... • - 51t

XVI CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE XXVI.

OVER THE CORDILLEEA, FROM CUZCO TO THE COAST.

Departure from Cuzco. — Our two Extra Horses, El Nevado and Napoleon. — The Plain and Town of Anta. — Surita, and its Post -keeper. — Limatambo, and its Ruins. — Mollepata. — Guarding our Animals by Night. — Mountain Paths. — Perils of the Road. — Approach to La Banca. — An Aqueduct built upon Arches. — Drunkenness and Goitres. — The Hacienda of Bellavista. — Waiting for Mules. — The Artist is afraid to cross the Hanging Bridge over the Apurimac. — La Banca again. — More Delays about Mules. — Gesticiii'iting with the Lips. — Our Artist separates from us. — The Ancient Inca Road<3. — Exaggerated Accounts of them. — They must have followed the Present Lines of Tra^^el. — Character of the Road from Cuzco to the Valley of Yucay. — Obstacles to Travel among the Cordilleras. — The Rivers. — Few Stone Bridges. — Hanging Bridges of Withes. — Present Mode of Construction and Maintenance. — The Great Hanging Bridge over the Apurimac. — The Approach to it. — Its True Dimensions. — Crossing it. — The Tunnel Beyond. — Meeting a Mule-train. — Curahuasi. — A Strange Visitor. — Searching for the Artist. — Ultimate Tidings of his Fate. — Abancay. — Sculptured Rock at Concacha. — Inta-huatana near Abancay. — Stone Bridge over the Pachachaca. — Andahuaylas. — Talavera. — Moyobamba. — A Stormy Ride. — Chinchero. — Hanging Bridge over the Rio Pampas. — Ocras. — Ayacucho, formerly Guamanga. — Scene of an Important Battle, December 9th, 1624. — Reported Subterranean Palace, with Statues, at Guinoa. — The Cordillera de la Costa. — Through the Despoblado. — A Five Days' Ride. — Lose our Horses. — A Perilous Night Adventure. — ^The Posada of San Antonio.— First Sight of the Pacific. — Descent to the Coast. — Arrival at Pisco. — Homeward-bound from Lima Page 633

CHAPTER XXVII.