Nicaragua; its people, scenery, monuments, resources, condition, and proposed canal ..

Front matter

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Contents

NARRATIVE

CHAPTER I. — The Brig Francis — Departure from New York — San Domingo — The Coast of Central America — Monkey Point — Shrewd Speculations— A Naked PUot — Almost a Shipwreck — San Juan de Nicaragua — Music of the Chain Cable — A Pompous Official — DeUvering a Letter of Introduction — Terra Firma again — " Naguas" and " Guipils"— The Town and its Laguna — Snakes and Alligators— Practical Equality — Celt vs. Negro — A "Wan Policeman— The British Consul General for Mosquitia— " Our House" in San Juan— An Emeute — Pigs and Policy — A Viscomte on the Stump — A Serenade — Mosquito Indians — ^A Picture of Primitive Simplicity, 17

CHAPTER II. — The Port of San Juan de Nicaragua ; its Position ; Climate ; Population ; Edifices of its Inhabitants ; its Insects ; The Nigua ; The Scorpion, etc. ; its Exports and Imports; Political Condition; Importance, Present and Prospective; Seizure by the English, etc. — Mouth of the River San Juan — The Colorado Mouth — The Tauro — Navigation of the River — Bongos and Piraguas — Los Marineros — Discovery and early History of the Port of San Juan, 41

Appendix

CHAPTER L — General Account of Nicaragua; its Boundaries, Topography, Lakes, Rivers, Ports, Climate, Population, Productions, Mines, etc., etc., 639

CHAPTER IL — The Proposed Inter-Oceanic Canal; Early Explorations; Survey of Colonel Childs in 1851; Various Lines proposed from Lake Nicaragua to the Pacific, etc., etc., 657

CHAPTER in, — Outline of Negotiations in respect to the Proposed Canal, etc., etc. 672

ILLUSTRATIONS

MAP.

Genebal Map of Nioaeagua.

LITHOGRAPHS.

PAGE

1— Idols at Zapateko, Nos. 2 and 3, Facing 4:7 A

2 — Idols at Zapateeo, Nos. 4 and 5, " 478

3 — Idols at Zapateeo, Nos. 6 and 7, " 479

4 — Idols at Zapateeo, Nos. 15 and 16, " 486

WOOD E2TGEAVINGS.

1— Aems of Nicaeagtta, Title.

2 — View of Lake Nicaeaqtta, feom the Sandotal Hacienda, neae Gea-

NADA, Frontispieoe.

3 — San JtrAN de Nioaeagtta, 1849, 25

4— "OiTE House," San Jttan, 35

5 — Hut of Mosquito Indians, 39

6— San Juan de Nioaeagua, 1853, 54

7 — The Bongo " La Gbanadina," 60

8 — YiEW ON San Juan Eivee, 73

9— El Castillo Viejo, oe Old Poet, 77

10— Sentinel's Box at El Castillo, 82

11— The Iguana, 90

12— Poet of San Caelos, 95

13 — Stoem on Lake Nioaeagua, 99

14— Pueblo of San Miguelito, 99

15— The Plantain Teee, 109

16— Ancient Yase, 110

17 — NiCAEAGUAN MeAT MaEKET, 110

18 — Views on Eoad to the Malacoas, 156

19— Piedea de la Boca, 179

20— NiCAEAGUAN Caet, 182

21— Ageicultueal Implements, 200

22— View of Lake Managua, 209

23— View neae Nagaeote, 209

24 — House in Pueblo Nueto, 221

25— Plan of House in Leon, 241

26— Geeat Cathedeal of Leon, 244

27 — Chuech of Meeced and Volcano of El Viejo,.... 247

28 — Volcanoes of Axusco and Momotombo, 247

30 — Oenaments on Same, 257

31 — Machete and Toledo, 260

32 — Paeochial Chuech of Subtiaba, '. 265

33 — Peimitiye Spinning Appaeatus, 269

34 — Spinning, feom a Mexican MS., 270

35— Peimitive Weaving, 271

87 — Indian Giel, in full Costume, 275

38 — CouETYAED OF HousE IN Leon, 284

39— Idol feom Momotombita, No. 1, 286

40 — Idol feom Momotombita, No. 2, 296

41— Feont View of Same, 297

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PAQK

42 — Colossal Head feom Momotombita, 298

4G— Side View of Idol No. 1, 811

48 — EuiNS OF Ancient Church, 812

49 — Street View in Leon, 823

50— NiCAEAGUAN PLOUGH, 327

51 — Procession of Holy Week, 328

52— General View of Chinendaga, 849

53 — Church and Plaza of Chinendaga, 351

54 — Port of Eealejo, 351

55— Lake Nihapa, an Extinct Crater, 392

56— Painted Eocks of Managua, 393

57 — Santiago, an Ancient Carving, 401

58— Idol at Managua, 402

59 — Lake and Volcano of Mas ay a, 425

60— EuiNED Gateway, Masaya, 425

61— Sculptured Eocks of Masaya, 437

62— View in the " Quebrada de las Insoripoiones," 439

63— Church of San Francisco, Granada, 443

64— Idol at Pensacola, No. 1, 451

65— Idol at Pensacola, NO. 2, 455

66— Idol at Pensacola, No. 3, 455

67 — The Bongo " La Carlota," 459

68— Idol at Zapatero, No. 1, 471

69— Stone of Sacrifice, 474

70— Plan op Monuments, 477

71— Idol at Zapatero, No. 9, 481

72 — Idol at Zapatero, No. 10, 483

73 — Idols at Zapatero, Nos. 11 and 12, 485

74 — Idol at Zapatero, No. 13, 486

75 — Sculptured Eock, 488

76 — Burial Vases from Omotepeo .• 509

77— Vases from Omotepeo, 510

78— Copper Mask, 511

79 — Frog in Green Stone, 511

80 — Group op Aboriginal Eelics, 515

81— New Volcano on Plain of Leon, 516

82— The Paroquet, 550

83 — View on Lake Managua, 560

84— The Toucan, 574

85— The Crimson Crane, 582

86— View on the Estero Eeal, 587

87 — Volcano of Cosequina from the Sea, 587

88— Volcano of Coseguina, 589

89— Mountain Scenery in Honduras, 601

90— La Union and Volcano of Conchagua, 612

91 — Church of La Union, 612

92— Las Tortilleras, 621

93— Volcano op Omotepeo from Virgin Bay, 648

94— Port of San Juan del Sur, 646

95— Mouth op Eio Lajas, 660

Preface

TO REVISED EDITION

SmcE the publication of tlie original edition of this work, in 1852, the beautiful but hapless Hepublic of Nicaragua has been the theatre of a series of startling events which have concentrated upon it not only the attention of the American public, but of all civilized nations. It has been made the arena of aimless, and not always reputable diplomatic contests, and of an obstinate and bloody struggle between a handful of Northern adventurers and an effete and decadent race. And unless the future shaU strangely betray the indications of the present, it is destined to pass through a succession of stm severer throes, in its advance to that political status and commercial importance inseparable from its geographical position and natural resources. For, in Nicaragua, and there alone, has

XIV PREFACE.

Nature combined those requisites for a water communication between the seas, which has so long been the dream of enthusiasts, and which is a desideratum of this age, as it will be a necessity of the next. There too has she lavished, with a bountiful hand, her richest tropical treasures; and the genial earth waits only for the touch of industry to reward the husbandman a hundredfold with those products, which, while they contribute to his wealth, add to the comfort and give employment to the laborer of distant and less favored lands.

Public interest, and especially American interest in Nicaragua must therefore constantly increase ; and the desire to know the characteristics of the country, its scenery and products, and the habits and customs of its people, can never diminish. In the Narrative which follows, these are faithfully presented ; and though, in some cases, there may be a needless amplitude of incidents, yet even this is probably not without its use in relieving descriptions and details which might otherwise prove dry and repulsive in form. In all essential respects, Nicaragua is little changed since 1850, and since a later visit of the author in 1854. It is true, Granada has been added

PREFACE. XV

to its list of ruined cities^ and Rivas and Masaya bear the scars of battles on their walls. The people have perhaps a more thoughtful look, as becomes men realizing that the fulness of time has finally brought them within the circle of the world's movement, and that they must assume and discharge the responsibilities of their new position, or give place to those who are equal to the requirements of this age and prompt to recognize their duties to their fellow men.

But in all other respects, as I have said, the country is unchanged. Its high and regular volcanic cones, its wooded plains, broad lakes, bright rivers, and emerald verdure are still the same. The aguadora still steps along firmly under her heavy water jar, or chmbs, panting, up the cHifs that surround the Lake of Masaya. The naked children, in average color possibly a shade lighter than before, still bestride the hips of nurse or mother. Small and pensive mules still trudge to market, ears and feet alone visible beneath their green loads of sacate. The mo2o and his machete^ the red-belted cavalier, on scarlet' pillion^ pricking his champing horse through the streets, the languid Senora puffing the smoke of her

Xyi PREFACE

cigaretta in lazy jets through her nostrils — the sable priest, with gallo under his arm, hurrying to the nearest cock pit — the shrill quien vive of the bare-footed sentinel — the rat-tat-too of the afternoon drum — the eternal Saints' days, and banging homhas — all, all are the same !

New Tork, September, 1859

MAP Ol

j XICARACJIA

I I lt.vE.G.S<|iiicr,

NARRATIVE