Nicaragua: its people, scenery, monuments, and the proposed interoceanic canal, with numerous original maps and illustrations

Front matter

NICARAGUA; ITS PEOPLE, SCENERY, MONUMENTS, AND THE PROPOSED INTEROCEANIC CANAL. WITH NUMEROUS ORIGINAL MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS. BY E. G. SQUIER. Late Charge d' Affaires of the United States to the Republics of Central Amebjca. "HIC LOCUS EBI GEMIHI JANUA.VASTAMAKI8 " OVID. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. NEW YORK: D. APPLETON & CO., PUBLISHERS. M DCCC LI I. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1851, by E. G. SQUIER, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Southern District of New York. CONTENTS OF YOLUME I.

Introduction

.

Chapter II

— Nicaragua; its Extent, Topography, Climate, Population, Agricultural and Mineral Productions, etc., etc., 21^8 NARRATIVE.

CHAPTER I.

— The Brig Francis— Departure from New York— San Domingo— The Coast of Central America — Monkey Point — Shrewd Speculations — A Naked Pilot — -Almost a Shipwreck — San Juan de Nicaragua — Music of the Chain Cable— A Pompous Official — Delivering a Letter of Introduction — Terra firma again — "Naguas" and "Gruipils" — The Town and its Laguna — Snakes and Alligators — Practical Equality — Celt vs. Negro — A Wan Policeman — The British Consul General for Musquitia — " Our House " in San Juan — An Emuete — Pigs and Policy — A Viscomte on the Stump — A Serenade — Mosquito Indians — A Picture of Primitive Simplicity, .49

CHAPTER IL

— The Port of San Juan de Nicaragua ; its Position ; Climate ; Population ; Edifices of its Inhabitants ; its Insects ; The Nigua ; The Scorpion, etc. ; its Exports and Imports ; Political Condition ; Importance, Present and Prospective ; Seizure by the English, etc. — Mouth of the River San Juan — The Colorado Mouth — The Tauro — Navigation of the River — Bongos and Piraguas — Los Marineros — ■ Discovery and Early History of the Port of San Juan, . . .71

Chapter III

— The Magnates of San Juan— Captain Samuel Shepherd — Royal Grants — Vexatious Delays — Imposing Departure — Entrance ofthe River San Juan — "Peeling" ofthe Marineros — Character of the Stream — The Juanillo — An Immemorial Stopping-plaee — Bongos and CO NTENTS. VI their Equipments and Stores — Meals — Esprit du Corps among the Boatmen — The "Oracion" — Queer Caprices — Medio — Our Accommo dation — A Specimen Night on the River — Morning Scenes and Impres sions — Bongo Life — The Colorado Mouth — Change of Scenery — The Iguana— A Solitary Establishment — Tropical Ease — The Rio Serapiqui — Fight between the Nicaraguans and the English — "A famous victory" — The Rio San Francisco — Remolino Grande — Picturesque River Views— The Hills and Pass of San Carlos— Thunder Storms— The Machuca Rapids — Melchora Indians — Rapids of Mico and Los Valos — Rapids of the Castillo — Island of Bartola — Capture by Lord Nelson — The "Castillo Viejo," or Old Castle of San Juan— "A Dios California!

" — Ascend to the Ruins — Strong Works — Capture of the Fort by the English in 1780 — Failure of the Expedition against Nicaragua ; a Scrap of History — Passage of the Rapids — Different Aspect of the River — A Black Eagle — Ninety Miles in Six Days — The Port of San Carlos — Great Lake of Nicaragua — Land at San Carlos — The Commandante— Hearty Welcome — Novel Scenes — Ancient Defences — View from the Fort — The Rio Frio — The Guatosos Indians — A Paradise for Alligators — Some Happy Institutions of theirs, ...... 85

Chapter IV

— San Carlos — Dinner at the Commandante's — Introduction to "Tortillas y Frijoles" — A Siesta — News ofthe attempted Revolution — Anticipating events, and what happened to the Commandante after we left — Departure under a Military Salvo — View of San Carlos from the Lake — Lake Navigation — Card Playing — Gorgeous sunset — A Midnight Storm — San Migueleto, and the " Bath of the Naides" — Primitive Simplicity — A Day on the Lake — " El Pedernal " — A Bath with Alligators — An " Empacho"— A Trial at Medicine, and great success — Second Night on the Lake — The Volcanoes of Momobacho, Ometepec, and Madeira — Volcanic Scenery — The Coast of Chontales — The Crew on Politics — "Timbucos" and "Calandracas," or a Glance at Party Divisions — Arrival at "Los Corals" — Some account of them — Alarming News — A Council of War — Faith in the United States flag — The Island of Cubi — More News, and a Return of the " Embacho" — Distant View of Granada — Making a Toilet — Bees — Arrival at the Ruined Fort of Granada — How they Land there — Sensation amongst the spectators — Entrance to the City — The Abandoned Convent of San Francisco — The Houses of the Inhabitants — First Impressions — Soldiers and Barricades — Thronged Streets — Senor Don Frederico Derbyshire — " Our Host " — A Welcome — Official Courtesies — Our Quarters — First Night in Granada, . . . . . .119 CONTENTS. VII

Chapter V

— Reception-Day — General Respect and Admiration for the United States — An Evening Ride — The Plaza— Churches— Hospital — The "Jalteva" — Deserted Municipality — Melancholy Results of Faction — The Arsenal — Natural Defences ofthe City — " Campo Santo" — An Ex-Director and his "Hacienda" — Shore of the Lake in the Evening — Old Castle — The " Oracion" — An Evening Visit to the Senoritas — Opera amidst Orange Groves — "Alertas" and "Quien Vivas?" — The Granadinas at Home — An Episode on Women and Dress — Mr. Estevens — "Los Malditos Inglesas" — A Female Antiquarian Coadjutor — " Cigaritas" — Indian Girls — Countrymen — An American "Medico" — Native Hospitality to Strangers — The Ways Infested by "Facciosos" — An American turned Back — Expected assault on the City, and Patriotic Resolves " To Die under the American Flag" — A note on Horses and Saddles — Visit to the Cacao estates of the Malaccas — The Cacao Tree — Day-Dreams —An Adventure Almost — Grievous Disappointment — Somoza, the Robber Chief — Our Armory — Feverishness of the Public Mind — Life Under the Tropics — A Frightened American, who had " seen Somoza," and his Account of the Interview — Somoza's Love for the Americans — Good News from Leon — Approach of the General-in-Chief, and an Armed American Escort — Condition of Public Affairs — Proclamation of the Supreme Director — Decrees of the Government — Official Announcements, and Public Addresses—How they Exhibited the Popular Feeling — Nicarag-uan Rhetoric — Decisive Measures to put down the Insurgents — General call to Arms — Martial Law — Publication of a " Banda" — Great Preparations to Receive the General-in-Chief and his " Veteranos" — No further fear ofthe "Facciosos" — A Break-neck Ride to the "Laguna de Salinas" — A Volcanic lake — Descent to the water — How came Alligators there ?

Native "Aguardiente" "not bad to take" — Return to the City — A Religious Procession — The Host — Increasing Tolerance of the People — Preparations for " La Maniana." . . . . .145

Chapter VI

— Discovery of Nicaragua in 1522 ; Gil Gonzales de Avila, and his march into the Country ; Lands at Nicoya ; Reaches Nicaragua and has an Interview with its Cazique ; Is closely questioned ; Marches to Dirianga, where he is at first received, but afterwards attacked and forced to retreat ; Peculiarities of the Aborigines ; Their wealth ; Arrival of Francisco Hernandez de Cordova ; He subdues the country, and founds the cities of Granada and Leon ; Return of Gonzales ; Quarrels between the Conquerors ; Pedro Arias de Avila, the first Governor of Nicaragua; His death; Is succeeded by Roderigo de Contreras; His C ONTENTS. VIII son, Hernandez de Contreras, rebels again Spain ; Meditates the entire independence of all Spanish America on the Pacific ; Succeeds in car rying Nicaragua ; Sails for Panama ; Captures it ; Marches on Nombre de Dios, but dies on the way ; Failure of his daring and gigantic Pro ject ; Subsequent Incorporation of Nicaragua in the Vice-Royalty of Guatemala — The City of Granada in 1665, by Thomas Gage, an English Monk ; Nicaragua called " Mahomet's Paradise ; " The Importance of Granada at that Period; Subsequent Attack by the Pirates, in 1668; is Burnt; Their account of it; The Site of Granada; Eligibility of its Position; Population; Commerce; Foreign Merchants; Prospective Importance — Lake Nicaragua ; Its Discovery and Exploration ; Inter esting account of it by the Chronicler Oviedo, written in 1541 ; Its Outlet Discovered by Captain Diego Machuca ; The wild beasts on its Shores ; The Laguna of Songozana ; Sharks in the Lake, their Rapacity ; Supposed Tides in the Lake ; Explanation of the Phenomenon, . 181

Chapter VII

— Narrative Continued— Arrival of the General-in-Chief — The Army — Fireworks by Daylight — Prisoners — Interview with Gen. Munoz — Arrival of the Californian Escort — " Piedras Antiguas" — The Stone of the Big Mouth— "El Chiflador"— Other Antiquities- Preparations for Departure — Carts and "Carreteros" — Vexatious Delays — Departure — How I got a Good Horse for a Bad Mule on the Road — Distant View of the Lakes — The Freedom of the Forest — Arrival at Masaya — Grand Entree — Deserted Plaza— A Military Execution — A "Posada" — "Hijos de Washington" — Disappointed Municipality — We escape an Ovation— Road to Nindiri — Apostrophe to Nindiri! — Overtake the Carts— " Alguno Fresco" — Approach the Volcano of Masaya— The "Mai Pais"— Lava Fields— View of the Volcano — Its Eruptions— "El Inferno de Masaya," the Hell of Masaya— Oviedo's account of his Visit to it in 1529— Activity at that Period— The Ascent — The Crater — Superstitions of the Indians — The Old Woman of the Mountain—The Descent ofthe Fray Bias Castillo into the Crater, 197

Chapter VIII

—Magnificent Views of Scenery—" Relox del Sol"— John Jones and Antiquities — An " Alarm;" Revolvers and a Rescue Distant Bells — Don Pedro Blanco — Managua — Another Grand Entree Our Quarters— Supper Service— Enacting the Lion— Virtues of Aguardiente—An "Obsequio," or, Torch-light Procession in honor of the United States— A National Anthem— Night with the Fleas— Fourth of July and a Patriotic Breakfast — Saint Jonathan — Leave Managua Matearas— Privileges of a " Compadre"— Lake of Managua— A magnificent View— The Volcano of Momotombo — A Solitary Ride— Geological CONTENTS. IX Puzzle — Nagarote — The Posada — Mules abandoned — A Sick Califor nian — Dinner at a Padre's — The Santa Annita — Virtues of a piece of Stamped Paper — A Storm in the Forest — Pueblo Nuevo — Five Daugh ters in Satin Shoes — Unbroken Slumbers — Advance on Leon — Ax usco — A Fairy-Glen — The great Plain of Leon — A " touch" of Poetry — Meet the American Consul — A Predicament — Cavalcade of Reception — New illustration of Republican Simplicity — El Convento — A Metamor phosis — The Bishop of Nicaragua — Forest, Miss Clifton, Mr. Clay — Criticism on Oratory — Nine Volcanoes in a row — Distant View of the Great Cathedral — The City — Imposing Demonstrations — The Grand Plaza — A Pantomimic Speech and Reply — The Ladies, "God bless them !" — House of the American Consul — End of the Ceremonies — Self-congratulations thereon — A Serenade — Martial aspect of the City — Trouble anticipated — Precautions of the Government, . . 225

Chapter IX

— The City of Leon— Originally built on the Shores of Lake Managua — Cause of its Removal — Its present Site — Dwellings of its Inhabitants — Style of Building — Devastation of the Civil Wars — Public Buildings — The Great Cathedral — Its Style of Architecture; Interior ; Magnificent View from the Roof — The " Cuarto de los Obispos," or Gallery of the Bishops — The University — The Bishop's Palace — "Casa del Gobierno" — "Cuartel General" — The Churches of La Merced ; Calvario ; Recoleccion — Hospital of San Juan de Dios — Stone Bridge — Indian Municipality of Subtiaba— Population of Leon — Predominance of Indian Population — Destruction of Stocks — Mixed Races — Society of Leon — The Females ; their Dress— Social Gatherings : the " Tertulia" — How to " break the Ice" and open a Ball — Native Dances — Personal cleanliness of the People — General Temperance — "Aguardiente" and "Italia" — Food— The Tortilla— Frijoles— Plantains— The Markets — Primitive Currency — Meals — Coffee, Chocolate, and " Tiste" —Dulces— Trade of Leon, . . . . .257

Chapter X

— The Vicinity of Leon— The Bishop's Baths— Fuenta de Axusco — " Cerro de Los Americanos" — A Military Ball and Civic Dinner — General Guerrero — Official Visit from the Indian Municipality of Subtiaba — Simon Roque — A Secret — Address and Reply — Visit Returned — TheCabildo — An Empty Treasury — "Subtiaba, Leal y Fiel" — Royal Cedulas — Forming a Vocabulary — "Una Decima" — The Indians of Nicaragua ; Stature ; Complexion; Disposition; Bravery; Industry; Skill in the Arts — Manufacture of Cotton — Primitive Mode of Spinning — Tyrian Purple — Petates and Hammocks — Pottery — " Aguacales," and " Jicoras" — Costume — Ornaments — Aboriginal Institutions — The X CONTENTS. Conquest of Nicaragua — Enormities practiced toward the Indians — Present Condition of the Indians— The Sequel of Somoza's Insurrec tion — Battles of the Obraje and San Jorge — Capture and Execution of Somoza — Moderate Policy of the Government — Return of General Munoz — Medals — Festival of Peace — Novel Procession — A Black Saint, ........ 277

CHAPTER XL

— Antiquities — Ancient Statue in the Grand Plaza — Monuments on the Island of Momotombita in Lake Managua — Determine to visit them — The Padre Paul — Pueblo Nuevo and our Old Hostess — A Night Ride — "Hacienda de las Vacas" — A Night amongst the " Vaqueros" — The Lake — Our Bongo — Visit the Hot Springs of Momotombo — Attempt to reach one ofthe "Infernales" of the Volcano — Terrible Heat — Give up the Attempt — Oviedo's Account of the Volcano — " Punta de los Pajaros" — Momotombita — Dread of Rattlesnakes — The Monuments — Resolve to remove the largest — A Nest of Scorpions — Tribulation of our Crew — Hard work — How to ship an Idol — Virtues of Aguardiente — " Purchasing an Elephant" — More " Piedras Antiguas" — The Island once Inhabited — Supposed Causeway to the Main-land — A Perilous Night Voyage — Difficult Landing — Alacran, or Scorpion Dance — A Foot-march in the Forest — The " Hacienda de los Vacas" again — Scant Supper — Return to Leon — The Idol sent, via Cape Horn, to Washington — A Satisfied Padre — Idols from Subtiaba — Monstrous Heads — Visit to an Ancient Temple — Fragments — More Idols — Indian Superstitions — " El Toro" — Lighting on Two Legs — A Chase after Horses — Sweet Revenge — " Capilla de la Piedra" — Place of the Idol — The Fray Francisco de Bobadilla — How he Converted the Indians — Probable History of my Idols — The Ancient Church "La Mercedes de Subtiaba" — Its Ruins — " Agarrapatas" — Tropical Insects — Snakes and Scorpions versus Fleas and Wood-ticks — -A Choice of Evils, . 301

Chapter XII

— Amusements in Leon— Cock Fighting—" Patio de Los Gallos"— Decline of the Cock-pit— Gaming — Bull Baiting — Novel Riding — " Una Sagrada Funcion," or Mystery — A Poem, and a Drama — " Una Compania de Funambulos," or Rope Dancers — Great Anticipations — A Novel Theatre — The Performance — "La Jovena Catalina" and the "Eccentric Clown, Simon" — " Tobillos Gruesos," or Bio- Ankles" — "Fiestas," and Saints' Days — The "Fiesta" of St. Andrew Dance of the Devils — Unearthly Music — All-Saints' Day — A Carnival in Subtiaba — An Abrupt Conclusion, .... 329

Chapter XIII

— A Sortie from Leon- Quesalguaque — El Estero de CONTENTS. XI Dona Paula— The "Monte de San Juan"— Summary way of disposing of "Ladrones"— "El Tigre," Jaguar, or Ounce, Its Habits; How Hunted— The " Lion," or Puma— The " Coyote"— Posultega— A Speci men Padre— Sobrinas— Chichigalpa— Poised Thunder-storm— The Ora cion—Hacienda of San Antonio— Chinandega — a Challenge— El Viejo — Familiar Fixtures— An Enterprising Citizen and his Tragic Fate— A Decaying Town— Mules vs. Horses— Visit to the Haciendas— An Indigo Estate, and a Mayor Domo — Fine View — The Sugar Estate of San Geronimo — Bachelor Quarters and Hacienda Life — A Fruit Garden — The Bread Fruit — Sugar-mills, and the Manufacture of Aguardiente — A Sinful Siesta — Visit From the Municipality — " Una Cancion" — Chi nandega by Daylight — Realejo — Port and Harbor — The Progress of Euterprize — The Projected New Town of Corinth — Return to Leon, ........ 345

Chapter XIV

— The Priesthood in Nicaragua— Decline in the Influence of the Church — Banishment of the Archbishop — Suppression of the Converts — Prohibition of Papal Bulls — Legitimization of the Children of Priests — The Three Abandoned Convents of Leon — Padre Cartine, the last of the Franciscans— Reception, or Clock-room — The Padre's Pets ; His Oratory ; Private Apartments ; Workshop — A Skull and its History — The Eglesia del Recoleccion — The Padre as a Landlord ; As a Painter ; As an Uncle ; And as Negociator in Marriage — An Auspicious Omen — Death of the Vicar of the Diocess of Nicaragua — His Obsequies — A Funeral Oration — Priestly Eloquence — -An Epitaph — General Funeral Ceremonies — Death as an Angel of Mercy — Burial Practices — Capellanias ; Their Effects, and the Policy of the Government in Respect to them — Popular Bigotry and Superstition — An Ancient Indulgence — -The Potency of an Ejaculation — Remission of Sins — Penetencias — Rationale of the Practice — Novel Penances — Turning Sins to Good Account — Good from Evil — System of the Padre Cartine — The Diocess of Nicaragua, and its Bishop — General Education— Public Schools — The Universities of Leon and Granada — A Sad Picture, . . 369

Chapter XV

— Visits to the capital city, Managua — Legislative Assembly ; How to procure a Quorum — Executive Message — Ratification of Treaty with the United States — Antiquities — Lake of Nihapa — Huertas — Dividing Ridge — Traces of Volcanic action — Hacienda de Ganado — An Extensive Prospect — Extinct Crater — Ancient Paintings on the CUffs — Symbolical Feathered Serpent — A Natural Temple — Superstitions of the Indians — Salt Lake — Laguna de Las Lavadoras — A Courier — Three Months Later from Home — The Shore of Lake Man- CONTENTS. agua — Aboriginal Fisheries — Ancient Carving — Population of Managua — Resources of Surrounding Country — Coffee — Inhabitants — Visit Tipi tapa — Sunrise on the Lake — Hot Springs — Outlet of Lake — Mud and Alligators — Dry Channel — Village of Tipitapa — Surly Host — Salto de Tipitapa — Hot Springs again — Stone Bridge — Face of the Country — Nicaragua or Brazil Wood — Estate of Pasquel — Practical Communism — Matapalo or Kill-tree — Landing and Estero of Pasquel or Panaloya — Return — Depth of Lake Managua — Communication between the two Lakes — Popular Errors, ......

ILLUSTRATIONS. LITHOGRAPHY BY SARONY AND MAJOR ; WOOD ENGRAVINGS BY J. W. ORR 1 FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS, CHIEFLY BY JAMES m'dONOU-GH. ORIGINAL MAPS. 1. PAOE. Map of Nicaragua, part of Honduras, and Mosquito Shore, Vol. L, 2 2. Map of the Plain of Leon, and the Bay of Fonseca, Vol. ii., . 239 3. Sectional Map of Rio Tipitapa, connecting Lakes Nicaragua and Managua, Vol. i., 419 •4. Detailed Map of the River San Juan, from Actual Survey, showing its channels, soundings, etc., Vol, ii., . . . 217 5. Map ofthe Port of San Juan de Nicaragua, Vol. ii., . . 217 6. Map of the Isthmus between the Mouth of the Rio Sapoa on Lake Nicaragua, and the Gulf of Bolanos on the Pacific VoL ii., 217 7. Vertical Section of the country between the Port of San Juan and the Estero Real de Golfo de Fonseca, Vol. ii., . 217 8.

Section between mouth of Rio Lajas, on Lake Nicaragua, and the port of San Juan del Sur, on the Pacific, Vol. ii., . 217 9. Section between mouth of Rio Sapoa aud Gulf of Bolanos, Vol. ii., 217 OCTAVO PLATES. 1. Frontispiece. Views of the probable Terminii of the proposed Interoceanic Canal, viz. ; View of San Juan de Nicaragua, from the Habor ; View of the entrance to the Gulf of Fonseca, from the Island of Tigre, 2. Castillo Viejo on River San Juan, Vol. i., . . . . 107 3. View of the town of San Carlos at the head of the River San Juan, Vol. i., 122 4. Ancient Fort of Granada, and the Volcano of Momobacho, VoLi., ILLUSTRATIONS. FIG. "QI 5. Lake of Managua, and Volcano of Momotombo, Vol. i., . 234 6. Indian House, Pueblo Nuevo, Vol. i., 242 7. Great Cathedral of Leon, Vol. i., 2G3 8. View from the Cathedral of Leon, embracing the Church of Mercedes, and Volcano of El Viejo, Vol. i., ... 265 9.

Inner Court of " Our House," Leon, Vol. i., . . . . 277 10. Ruins of First Christian Church in Nicaragua, Vol. i., . . 325 11. Ancient Idol of Subtiaba, Vol. i., 321 12. Town of Chichigalpa. Vol. i., 351 13. Profile of the Volcanic Chain of the Marabios, with elevations of the principal volcanoes of Central America, Vol. i., . 419 14. Painted Rocks of Managua; two fiigures, Vol. ii., . . 409 15. Painted Rocks of Managua; six fiigures, Vol. ii., . . . 409 16. Frontispiece of Volume II., Ancient Idol from Island of Pensacola, .......... 17. Ancient Idol from Pensacola, Vol. ii., . 36 18. Do. do. do. do 37 19. Embarcadero, Island of Zapatero, Vol ii., 50 20. Idols from Zapatero; two fiigures, 21. Do. do. 22. Do. do. 23. Do. do. 24. Idols, 25. Indian Antiquities, six figures, 338 WOOD ENGRAVINGS. 1.

Arms of Nicaragua, Title. 2. " Our House," San Juan, Vol. 1., 65 3. Hut of Mosquito Indians 69 4. The Bongo "La Granadina," 90 5. View on the San Juan River, 103 6. Sentinel's Box, Castillo Viejo, 110 7. The Iguana, US 8. The Plantain Tree 143 9. Piedra de la Boca, 203 10. Nicaragua Cart, 206 11. Agricultural Instruments, 224 12. Plan of Central American House, .... 261 13. Ancient Metlatl, or Grinding Stone, . ... 272 14. Ornaments of same, ILLUSTRATIONS. XV ™. PAOB 15. Machete y Toledo 276 16. Parochial Church of Subtiaba, 282 17. Primitive Spinning, two Figures, . . . . . 285 18. Spinning, from a Mexican Manuscript, .... 286 19. Primitive Weaving, 287 20. Pottery and Carving of Indians, four Figures, . . . 289 21. Indian Girl, in full Costume, ...... 290 22. Idol from Momotombita, No. 1, 302 23.

Do. do. No. 2, 312 24. Front View of same, 313 25. Colossal Head from Momotombita 314 26. Idol from Subtiaba, No. 1 318 27. Do. do. No. 2, two views, .... 319 28. Do. do. No. 3 320 29. Do. do 327 30. Street View in Leon, 339 31. Nicaraguan Plow, 343 32. View of Chinandega, 365 33. Lake Nihapa, an extinct Crater, ...... 406 34. Ancient Carving in wood, ...... 413 35. Idol at Managua, ........ 414 VOLUME II. 36. View in the " Quebrada de las Inscripciones," ... 25 37. Figures, 26 38. View of the Church of San Francisco, Granada, ... 29 39. The Bongo "La Carlota," 41 40. The Stone of Sacrifice, Zapatero, . 56 41. Plan of Monuments at Zapatero, 57 42. Idol at Zapatero, No. 9, Gl 43. Do. do. No. 12, 63 44. Do. do. No. 13, 64 45. Inscribed Rocks at Zapatero, 66 46. Burial Vases from Ometepec, two fiigures, .... 67 47.

Ornamented Burial Vases from Zapatero, .... 88 48. Copper Mask, do. do., .... 89 49. Frog in Verd Antique, 89 50. The Paroquet, ILLUSTRATIONS. no. Paob 51. The Toucan, 150 52. Crimson Crane, 158 53. Volcano of Coseguina, ....... 163 54. Mountain Scenery in Honduras, ..... 175 55. Las Tortilleras, 195 56. Mouth of the Rio Lajas, and view of Volcano of Ometepec, 235 57. Idol found at Palenque, ....... 337 58. Terra Cotta Idol, 338 59. Leg of Vase, 339 60. Human Head, Terra Cotta, ■ ■■■il Di MA EM ISM- Basttrn Terminus o/' //ie JornMjo&ea' />//<>/■ f/cfff mr ("ttrter/ SLAND Of MIAN'.iiiha ISLAND OF CONCHAGUITA VOLCANO 01- AMAPALA OR CONCHAQUA. VOLCANO Of COSEGUINA imŒ Yi TOOK SAY IQDIF FfflKISSflEA. FtflOBBfl VHK ISIASCD S)F IsOEKd Probable H~r *■/<■/ // 7fo'mtt'ntt,v "/' ///>■ arozmrod //i/r>- Octmttie < ttntt/ ,,,,•>•-"■ M<.. x "h' 59 v *^\sHbmm its -^^^ DEPARTMENTAL D I V I S 1 0 N S~"a N D PROJECTED ROUTES INTERQCEANIC COMMUNICATION; BY. E.G.SQUIER.

Preface

. The character in which I visited Nicaragua, of an accredited Eepresentative of the United States, made me the witness of many extraordinary demonstrations of respect and affection for my country, and the recipient of numerous marked attentions, private and popular. It enabled me to see the country under a very favorable aspect, enlivened everywhere by cheerful and enthusiastic assemblages, which the presence of an Envoy of the Great Eepublic of the North, had inspired with passionate hopes of their own future glory and prosperity. And as it is my object to give a true picture, not only of the country, but of the character, condition, and relations of the people, I have not hesitated to refer to many scenes and occurrences, in which, as a public man, I received singular marks of favor. With the judicious reader I am not afraid to trust myself in these descriptions ; I am willing even to risk the imputation of vanity, if I can thereby awaken a true sympathy in the hearts of the American people, for their simple, but unfortunate friends and allies in Central America ; or contribute, however slightly, to impress the great truth upon this nation,

PREFACE.

. that the United States is the natural head of the great American family, and that it is a duty which it owes, alike to God and man, to extend its advice, its encouragement, and its support to the oppressed and struggling Republics of Central America. Yet, with all the latitude which I have ventured to give myself in these respects, there are many things that the un official visitor might mention and remark upon without impropriety, to which, for obvious reasons, I cannot refer. Nor can I, in the following pages, make anything more than a very limited use of my journal, which, whatever may be its value hereafter in illustrating the transition period of the country in question, is, from necessity, full of references to political transactions and events, upon which it is not my present purpose to speak ; and to persons whose names it would not be delicate or proper to introduce into these pages.

I have divided my work into five parts or divisions, as follows : I. A Geographical and Topographical Account of Nica ragua, and of the other States of Central America, with observations on their climate, agricultural and mineral pro ductions, and general resources. II. A Narrative of my residence in Nicaragua, containing an account of my explorations of its aboriginal monuments, notices of the people, their habits, customs, and modes of life, descriptions of scenery, etc. This narrative might have been greatly amplified, but it is believed that it contains enough to enable the reader to form a very accurate idea of

PREFACE.

. XIX the great natural beauty of the country, and of the character and condition of its people. III. An Account of the Geography and Topography of Nicaragua, as connected with the proposed Interoceanic Canal ; a Historical Sketch of the various negociations in respect to that enterprize ; and also some speculations as to the probable commercial and political results of its construction. In this part, I have written without fear or conceal ment, and with no design of subserving the interests of any set of men. I regard the proposed work as one of vital importance to our country, which should be kept free from every taint of mere speculation, and be pursued in entire good faith by those who may connect themselves with it. Any delinquency, in this respect, is treachery to the interests alike of Nicaragua and the United States, which it would be the duty of every American to expose to public reprobation.

The facts contained in this part may be relied on, as being generally, and in all important respects, entirely accurate. Should there be any errors, it must be remembered that my means of investigation were imperfect, and that nothing more than approximate accuracy can be reached, except by actual and detailed surveys. IV. Notes on the Aborigines of the country, with such original and accumulated information respecting their geo oTaphical distribution and relations, languages, institutions, customs and religion, as shall serve to define their ethnical position, in respect to the other semi-civilized, aboriginal nations of this continent. XX