Peru: incidents of ravel and exploration in the Land of the Incas. ... With illustrations

Front matter

PEKU INCIDENTS OF TEAVEL AND EXPLORATION IN THE LAND OF THE INCAS GATE-WAY AND VALLEY OE OLLANTAYTAMBO. PERU INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL AND EXPLORATION IN THE LAND OF THE INCAS BY E. GEORGE SOUIER,"JM.A., F.S.A. LATE-U. S. COMMISSIONER TO PERU, AUTHOR OF "NICARAGUA," "ANCIENT MONUMENTS OF MISSISSIPPI VALLEY," ETC. ETC. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. % o n H o n : MACMILLAN AND CO. 1877. LONDON : PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STRliET AND CHARING CROSS. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. INTRODUCTORY. Mr. Prescott on the Inca Monuments. — Influence of his Words. — The Author's Aspirations and Purposes. — Threatened with Blindness. — Appointed United States Commissioner to Peru. — Restoration to Sight. — Commencement of Explorations. — Extent of the Region explored. — Plans, Drawings, and Photographs. — Value of the Material secured. — General Survey of the Inca Empire. — Its Boundaries. — Physical Characteristics. — Lake and River Systems. — Mountain Ranges. — The Coast Desert. — Fertile Valleys. — The Inhabitants of the Valleys. — The Cordillera. — The Despoblado. — Distinction between the Cordillera and the Andes. — The Basin of Titicaca. — Only two other Similar Basins in America. — Lake Aullagas. — Lake Titicaca. — Its Sacred Islands. — The Bolsones, or Valleys. — The Bolson of Cuzco. — The Montana. — The Incas and the Peoples of the Montana. — Probable Population of the Inea Empire. — Divisions of the Ancient Inhabitants of Peru. — Their Character and Institutions determined by Physical Conditions. — Design of this Work Page 1

Chapter II. New York To Lima

New York to Panama. — The Remains of George R. Gliddon. — The Bay of Panama. — Embarking for Peru. — The Island of Taboga. — Under Way. — The British Steamship Company. — Dead Man's Island. — The Island of Puna. — The Gulf and City of Guayaquil. — Balsas. — Pine-apples. — The Rio Guayas. — Las Bodegas. — Along the Coast. — Paita. — Arrival at Callao. — Disembarking. — The Harbor. — Sea-lions. — Aspect of the Town. — The Plaza. — Merchandise. —Loungers and Lazy Officials. — Hotel de la Marina. — The Road to Lima.— First Impressions of the City.— The Hotel Morin. — New Quarters 17

Chapter III

, LIMA THE CITY OF THE KINGS. The City of the Kings. — Its Foundation and Aims. — Early Civil and Ecclesiastical Supremacy. — Historical Reminiscences.' — Ancient and Modern Sources of Wealth. // CONTENTS. — Geographical Position. — Climate and Temperature. — Fogs and Mists. — Topo graphical Situation.— Prevailing Winds. — Health.— Origin of the Name of Lima. — The Walls. — Municipal Divisions. — Population. — The River Rimac — The Bridge. — Style of Architecture.— Mode of Erection.— Balconies, Courts, and Roofs. — Poultry and Buzzards. — Furniture and Pictures. — The Governor's Palace.— Peruvian Soldiers. — The Cabildo and other Pvblic Buildings.— The Cathe dral. — Other Churches. — The Plaza Mayor. — The Arcades. — Fountain, with Statue of Fame. — The Plaza de la Constitucion and Equestrian Statue of Bolivar. — The Paseo of the Barefoot Friars. — The Alameda de Acho. — Monument to Columbus. — Public Institutions. — The General Cemetery. — Flower Gardens.— The Feast of Roses. — Amusements. — Lima under the Viceroys. — Improvements since the In dependence. — The Central Market. — Varieties of Fruits. — Fish. — Meats. — The Abattoir. — Poultry. — Cookery. — Puchero. — Chupe. — Picantes of various Kinds. — Other Dishes. — Dulces. — Dietetic Maxims. — A Dinner with a Hidalgo. — A DiDlomatic Dinner x*age o4

Chapter IV. Pachacamac

Visit to the Ruins. — The Ancient Sacred City. — Paehacamae. — Miguel Estete's Account of the Famous Shrine. — The Spoils taken by the Spaniards. — Sugar Estate of San Pedro. — Condors. — Present Aspect of Paehacamae. — El Castillo.— Mamacuna. — The Arch. — A Vast Burial-place. — Mummies. — Ancient Tenement-house. — The Family Tomb. — The Bodies. — Articles found with them. — Tweezers. — Blanket. — Shroud. — Spindle. — Wallet. — Girl's Work-box, and Contents. — Boy's Sling.— Dried Parrot. — Child's Rattle.— Vases and Pottery 62

Chapter V. Ruins Tn The Vicinity Of Lima

The Valley of Cafiete and its R,uins. — The Palace of El Rey Inca. — Ruins of Hervai. — Temple at Magdalena. — Limatambo. — Ruins in the Valley of the Chillon. — Burial-places of the Ancient Poor. — Relics found in Graves. — Ruins of Cajamarquilla. — Exploring and Surveying. — Meet the Robber, Rossi Arci. — His Subsequent Fate 82

Chapter VI. Up The Coast To Truxillo

Starting for Paita. — The Rocky Coast. — Sea-lions. — The Oasis and Port of Huacho. — The Town. — Rock-salt. — How it is formed. — Supe and Patavilca. — The Rio de la Barranca. — Ruins of Paramanca. — Traditions. — Ancient Works on La Horca. — Huarmey or Guarmey. — Casma. — Bays of Simanco and Ferrol. — The Valley of Chimboto. — Ancient Monuments. — Silver Mine of Micate. — Port of Santa. The Rio Santa. — Ridge crowned with Ruins. — Huaca near Santa. — Ride to Santa. The City. — Guano Islands of Guafiape. — Eagles, Pelicans, and Vultures'* — Port of CONTENTS. IX Huanchaco. — Singular Craft. — Sardinas. — Getting ashore. — The Prefect of Truxil lo. — Departure for Truxillo. — The Grand Chimu. — Beautiful Lizards. — Entrance to Truxillo Page 98

Chapter VII. Truxillo Reconnoissance Of Grand Chimu

Truxillo. — Hotel del Comercio. — The Chinese Fonda. — Churches, Convents, and Public Buildings. — Colonel La Rosa.— His Collections of Antiques. — Supposes the Author to be in Search of Hidden Treasure.— Reconnoissance of Chimu. — Hamlet of Miraflores. — The Great Aqueduct. — General Survey of the Ruins. — The Huacas, Walls, and Gardens. — Girls' Tombs without the Walls. — Azequias. — Remains of a Village of the Excavators of El Obispo. — How the Huaca was built. — A Solitary Scorpion. — Almost under Arrest. — Unearthed Palace. — The Royal Tombs.— El Castillo.— The Dead of a Great Battle.— Skulls of Various Races. — Cemetery of Girls. — The Prison. — Huaca of Toledo.— Miles of Graves. — The Watering-place of Huaman. — Return to Truxillo. — Photographic Annoyances 114

Chapter VIII. The Rulns At Moche

Ride to Moche. — Diminished Area of Cultivation. — Alleged Effects of Earthquakes. — Incident on the Rio Moche. — The Indian Pueblo. — The Gobernador. — Many-horned Sheep. — The Ladies of the Family. — Primitive Spinning Apparatus. — The Church. — Reception by the Cura. — Present and Past Condition of his Flock. — Ruined by having the Right of Suffrage. — The Cura's Lamentations. — His Opinion upon Treasure-hunting. — Offers to guide us to the Ruins. — The Ride. — Temple of the Sun. — View from the Summit. — The Great Pyramid. — Farewell to the Cura. — Subsequent Exploration of the Pyramid. — Its Form and Dimensions. — Alleged Secret Passages. — A Modern Adit. — Probable Purpose of the Structure. — Visit to the Prefect of Truxillo. — His Magnificent Mansion. — His Want of Hospitality .125

Chapter IX. Explorations At Grand

CniMU. Ride to the Ruins. — Hall of the Arabesques. — The First Corridor. — Figures in Stucco. — The Second Corridor. — Vaults and Store-rooms. — Cotton Mattresses. — An Upper Edifice. — Walls, Passages, and Chambers. — The Furnace. — Vessels of /'Gold and Silver. — Many Relics melted down. — Prospects left for Research. — Conjectural Features of the Structure. — Exterior Walls probably Decorated. CONTENTS. X — The Destruction by Treasure - hunters. — The Necropolis of Chimu. — Niches with Human Remains. — Fine Cloths of Cotton and Alpaca Wool. — Silver Or naments attached to Fabrics. — Decorated Skulls. — A Mysterious Structure. — Covered Tomb. — Our Way of Life at Chimu. — Plans for the Future. — Ruins Described by Rivero and Tschudi. — The "First Palace." — Ornamented Court and Hall. — Forms of Ornamentation. — The Great Reservoir. — El Presidio, or the Prison. — An Evidence of Former Civilization. — The " Second Palace." — Hu aca of Misa. — Barrios, or Wards. — Sub - barrios. — The Cabildo, or Municipal House. — Dwellings of the People. — Other Squares. — Reservoirs and Gardens. — Huacas of Las Conchas and Toledo. — Ancient Smelting - works. — Evidences of Trade Localities Page 135

Chapter X. Legendary History Of The Chimus

Accounts by Feijoo and Garcilasso de la Vega : Extent of their Territory. — Their Chief, Chimu-Canchu. — The Invasion by the Inca Yupanqui. — Stubborn Resistance. — Final Submission of Chimu-Canchu. — Beneficent Measures of the Inca. — Relation by Montesinos : The Inca Empire threatened by the Chimus. — Wars between the Chimus and Incas, from the Eleventh to the Twenty-fifth. — The Chimus conquered by Topa- Yupanqui, the Ninety-seventh Inca. — Relation by Balboa : War between the Inca Capac-Yupanqui and Chimu-Capac. — The Chimus subjugated by Topa-Inca. — The Account by De Leon. — Different Customs and Dialects among the Chimus. — Some Legends of their own Origin. — The Idol Llampallec at Chot. Its Removal, and the Consequences. — Accession of Chimu-Capac, who was conquered by the Incas. — The Ancient Language of the Chimus still spoken at Eteng. — Different from the Quichua and that of the Incas 165

CHAPTER XL THE ART, CUSTOMS, AND RELIGION OF THE CHIMUS.

Skill of the Chimu Artificers. — Their Productions easily Recognized. — Their Conventional Symbols. — Animals, Birds, and Reptiles. — The Lance as an Emblem of Royalty. — Vases and other Works in Gold and Silver. — Groups of Figures. Some Remarkable Examples. — Implements and Weapons. — Their Chief Excellence in Pottery. — Various Forms of Vases and other Vessels. — Ornamentation of these. — Pictures on Pottery. — Musical Instruments and Performers. Representations of the Human Head. — Of Animals and Fruit. — Sacred Character of their Ceramic Art. — The Best Source of our Knowledge of their Religion. Symbolical Character of their Religion. — The Symbols of the Four Elements.— A Debasing Fetichism coincident with their Purer Religion. — Padre Arriaga's Book on the Extirpation of the Idolatry of Peru. — His Account of their Various Superstitions.— Their Village, Household, and Personal Idols. — Worship of Ancestors.

Results of Arriaga's Efforts to extirpate Idolatry. — The Purer Religion of the Chimus. — Worship of the Original, Pure, Incorporeal Being CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XII. Explorations Near The Coast

Farewell to Chimu. — Voyage down the Coast. — Landing at Samanco. — A Day and a Night there. — Set out for the Estate San Jacinto****— Curious Megalithie Rock. — Ruins of Huacatambo. — The Fortaleza de Tierra Firme. — Rich Vineyards. — The Huaca de la Culebra. — Sun-worship and Serpent-worship. — Arrival at San^ - Jaeinto. — The Hacienda.— A Renovated Estate on the Verge of the Desert.— Ancient Ruins. — Lines of Walls on the Mountain Side. — Ancient and Modern Irrigation. — Cultivation of Cotton. — A Mountain Ride. — El Palacio del Padrejon. — The Village of Mora. — Estate of Motoc&che. — Four Terraced Pyramids. — Another Stone Work. — Vases in the Walls. — Return to San Jaeinto.— A Midnight Adventure. — Voyage resumed. — Coast Ruins. — Calaveras or Chancayillo. — Fortress of Quisque. — Pyramidal Structure in the Valley of Santa. — Ruins of Alpacote. — Ancient Works at Huanuco, as described by Raimondi. — Ancient Irrigation on the Coast Page 193

Chapter XIII. From Lima To Tacna

V Start for Explorations Southward. — Voyage along the Coast. — Islay the Port of Arequipa. — Arequipa and the Earthquake of 1868. — Author's Experiences of Earthquakes in Peru. — Arica the Port of Tacna. — The Earthquake at Arica. — (/A Peruvian Railway. — Tacna.-^ts Architecture and Trade. — The Alameda. — The Bola de Oro. — Preparations for a Journey among the Andes. — Berrios, our Muleteer. — On the Way. — About Mules 221

Chapter XIV. Over The Cordillera To Tiahuanuco

Equipped for the Journey. — The Tambo at Pachia. — Chupe. — The Quebrada de Palca. — Palca. — Mule Travelling among the Mountains. — Chulpas. — An Aymara Skull. — The Soroche. — Climbing the Crest. — La Portada. — Llamas. — The Alps and the Andes. — Tambos. — The Pass of Guaylillos. — Effects of the Soroche. — The Rio de Azufre. — Veruga Water. — The Peak of Tacora.— Shot at a Vicuna. — The Tambo of Tacora. — A Hospitable Host. — La Laguna Blanca. — The Divide between the Basin of Lake Titicaca and the Pacific. — In the Despoblado. — The Rio Cufio, the Boundary between Peru and Bolivia. — The Biscacha. — The Rio Maure. — A1-"1C" pacas. — The Pass of Chuluncayani. — An Expensive Hotel. — Descending the Slope. — First Signs of Cultivation. — A Cretin. — Santiago de Machaca. — The Aymara Hat. — A Solitary Church. — Shot at a Condor. — St. Andres de Machaca. — The Gobcrnador and the Cura. — Fine Church. — Nasacara and its Floating Bridge. — The CONTENTS.

XII ✓ Rio Desaguadero.— Our Rascally Berrios.— Jesus de Machaca and its good Cura. •■■■•-The Crown of the Andes.— First View of Lake Titicaca.— Magnificent Panora ma.—Descent to the Plain.— Tiahuanuco.— The Drunken Cura.— Supposed to be a Treasure-hunter Page 238

Chapter XV. Tiahuanuco, The Baalbec Of The New World

Tiahuanuco a Centre of Ancient Civilization. — Difficulties. — The Chuno Festival. — Death of my Photographer. — Studying the Art. — My Assistants. — The Edifices of Ancient Tiahuanuco. — The Ruins a Quarry for Modern Builders. — Their Extent. —The Temple. — The Fortress. — The Palace.— The Hall of Justice. — Precision of the Stone-cutting. — Elaborate Sculptures. — Monolithic Gate-ways. — The Modern Cemetery. — The Sanctuary. — Symbolical Slab. — The great Monolithic Gate-way. — Its Elaborate Sculptures. — Monuments described by Cieza de Leon and D'Orbigny. — Material of the Stone-work. — How the Stone was cut. — General Resume. \l — Tiahuanuco probably a Sanctuary, not a Seat of Dominion 272

Chapter XVI. At Tiahuanuco, And To The Sacred Islands

Suspected of Treasure-hunting. — The Guardian of the Tapadas. — The Potato-feast and Corpus Christi. — The Indian Celebration. — Music, Dancing, and Costumes. — Departure from Tiahuanuco. — Village of Guaque. — Cattle feeding in the Lake. — Tortora Bridge over the Outlet of the Lake. — Entry into the Village of Desaguadero. — A Convivial Cura. — Hospitalities of the Caballeros and Senoritas. — Mine Host the Comandante. — Zepita. — Scenes on the Road. — Comparatively Fertile Region. — Village of Yunguyo. — A Pressing Invitation. — A Dinner Compliment. — A Legal Luminary 302

Chapter XVII. The Sacred Islands Of Titicaca

Copacabana. — Its Famous Shrine. — Saluted as Viracocha. — The Church of La Senora de Copacabana. — The Camarin. — Votive Offerings. — A Pilgrimess from Spain. — The Statue of La Senora. — An Idol of Blue Stone formerly worshipped here. — The Fountain of the Inca. — The Ladera. — Yampapata. — Waiting for a Balsa. — Night in a Tambo. — Balsa Voyage. — Description of the Lake. — The Sacred Island of Titicaca. — Manco Capac and Mama Oello here began their Mission. — The Sacred Grain. — Etymology of the Name Titicaca. — Ruins of the Temple, Convent, and Palace. — The Island of Coati. — The Island of Soto, or of Penitence. — Landing on Titicaca. — Ascending the Terraces. — The Sacred Rock of Manco Capac. — Landing-place of the Incas. — Alleged Triune Statue. — The Labyrinth. — Night at the Hacienda. — St. John's Fires. — The Garden of the Incas. — The Bath of the Incas.— The Paiace of the Inca CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XVIII. Detour To Puno

Return to Copacabana. — Set out for Puno. — Views by the Way. — The Towns and their Inhabitants. — Resting-place of the Inca.-T-Ancient Sepulchres at Acora. — Chulpas, or Burial - towers. — Arrival at Puno. — Welcome by an American Merchant. — Lofty Situation of Puno. — Its Modern Origin. — Neighboring Silver Mines. — Story of Jose de Salcedo. — The Wool-trade of Puno. — Aspect of the Town. — Preparations for revisiting the Sacred Islands and exploring the Lake. — Our Altered and Improvised Craft. — Voyage on the Lake. — Night on the Island of Titicaca. — Sail to the Island of Coati Page 347

Chapter XIX. The Sacred Island Of Coati, And Revisit To Titicaca

The Island of Coati, Sacred to the Moon. — Small, but Fertile. — The two Groups of Ruins. — The Gates of Purification. — Remains of Tambos. — The so-called Palace of the Sun probably the Temple of the Moon. — The Shrine of Coati. — Situation and Structure. — Interior Construction. — Curious Apartments. — Court or Corral for the Sacred Llamas and Vicunas. — Platforms and Terraces. — Magnificent View. — Origin of the Structures. — Derivation of the Name of the Island. — Priests and Vestals. — An Accident. — Titicaca revisited. — Search for the Temple of the Sun. — Statements of the Chroniclers. — Identification of the Ruins. — Places where the Sun was tied up. — A Lofty Terraced Promontory. — View from its S.immit. — The Hamlet of Challa. — Real Historical Importance of the Island of Titicaca. — Date and Origin of its Structures. — Embark for Puno. — A Stormy Voyage. — Put in at Eseoma. — Ruins here. — Becalmed on the Lake. — Reach Puno 359

Chapter XX. Sillustani

— ITS CHULPAS AND SUN-CIRCLES. Lake Umayo. — The Town of Vilque. — Ruins of a Temple. — Sillustani. — Numerous Chulpas. — A Round Chulpa.— Its Construction and Arrangement. — Manner in which the Stones were raised. — A Broken Chulpa at Sillustani.— Chulpas and the Topes of Ceylon. — The Stones cut to Plan before being placed in Position. — Sun -circles. — A Submerged Town and Palace. — Hatuncolla. — Hill - fortress of Quellenata. — Chulpa at Ullulloma compared with Pelasgic Tower in Italy. — Square Chulpas in Bolivia. — The Chulpas evidently Tombs. — Las Casas' Account of Peruvian Modes of Burial. — The Region in which they are found. — Aymara, not Quichua Structure * CONTENTS.

Chapter XXI. From Lake Titicaca To Cuzco

Shores of Lake Titicaca.— Huancane.— Quellenata. — Sondor-huasi. — Thatched Roofs. —Santa Rosa.— A Bull-fight.— A Condor introduced.— Attempt to send two Birds of this Species to the Coast. — Pedro Lobo's Correspondence. — Bleak Mountain Gorges.— Tambos.— The Pass of La Raya.— Descending the Mountains.— The Aguas Calientes.— The Valley of the Vilcanota. — Cacha and the Temple of Viracocha. — Garcilasso's Account of the Inca Viracocha. — Apparition of the Spirit of Viracocha to him. — His Miraculous Victory over the Chinchasuyas. — He erects the Temple. — Garcilasso's Account of the Temple and Statue. — Present Condition. — Dependent Structures. — Modern Potteries among the Ruins. — Gables and Windows in Inca Architecture. — Error of Humboldt and Prescott. — Niches. — Etymology of the Name Viracocha. — Tupac Amaru. — Quijijana. — Curious Ruins and Tombs. — Urcos. — The Bolson of Andahuaylillas. — Huayna Capac's Gold Chain. — A Night on Andahuaylillas. — The Inca Quarries.— Method of Quarrying. — The Fortress of Piquillacta. — Ruins of the Inca Town of Muyna. — The Llautu or Incarial Badge. — Muyna, an Ancient Walled Town. — Oropesa. — The Angostura Pass. — San Sebastian, with its People of the Ayllos, or Inca, Stock Page 390

Chapter XXII. Cuzco, The City Of The Sun

Signification of its Name. — Its Situation. — Climate. — Historical Importance. — Ancient Divisions. — The Hill of Sacsahuaman. — Its Principal Structures. — The Huacapata, or Great Square. — Terraces. — Cyclopean Walls. — The Stone of the Twelve Angles. — Style of Public Buildings. — Perfection of the Stone-cutting. — Error of Prescott. — Houses of more than One Story. — The Temple of the Sun, and Subsidiary Edifices. — Its Site now occupied by the Church and Convent of Santo Domingo. — The Field and Gardens of the Sun. — The Water Supply. — Profusion of Golden Decorations. — The House of the Virgins of the Sun. — The Place of Serpents and Palace of Huayna Capae. — The Palace of the Yupanquis. Ancient Walls incorporated into Modern Buildings. — System of Palace-buildin" by the Incas. — Schools. — Galpones. — The Public Square. — The City commanded by the Fortress of Sacsahuaman. — The Terrace of the Granaries, and Palace of the First Inca. — Honors to Agriculture. — Probable Population of Ancient Cuzco. — Its General Aspect. — Modern Cuzco. — Moorish Style of Buildings.

The Cathedral and Church of La Merced. — Cuzco superseded in Importance by Lima. At little known by Peruvians. — Population mostly Indians. The White Inhabitants.— The Old Families.-^Senora Zentino and her Museum of Antiquities.— Notice of Lorenzo St. Criq, alias "Paul Marcoy."— An ancient Trepanned Skull.— Paucity of Sculptures in Peru.— The Alameda.— The Panteon, or Cemetery. — Pablo Biliaca.— Processions and Cock-fighting. — The Dog Laws CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XXIII. Sacsahuaman, The Ancient Fortress Of Cuzco

Import of the Name. — Situation of the Fortress. — The Ravine of the Rodadero. — Aqueduct and Water-falls. — The Gate of Sand. — The Rock Rodadero. — Character of the Rock. — Garcilasso's Description of the Fortress. — Plan of its Construction. — System of Drainage. — Immense Stones. — Entrances. — The Round Building, and other Subsidiary Works. — Mistake of Prescott. — How the Stones were moved. — The Piedra Cansada, or Tired Stone. — El Rodadero, and Von * Tschudi's Error in respect to It. — The Seat of the Inca. — Curiously carved Stones. — Rock Seats. — Chingana, or the Labyrinth. — Contrasts between Sacsahuaman and the so-called Fortress at Tiahuanuco. — Date of the Construction of Sacsahuaman. — Modem Cuzco mostly built of its Materials. — Lamentation of a Descendant of the Incas over its Destruction. — Treasure-hunters and their Traditions. — Legend of Doiia Maria de Esquivel Page 404

Chapter XXIV. The Valley Of Yucay

OLLANTAYTAMBO. The Yueay the Parent Stream of the Amazon. — The Valley of Yucay. — Roads leading to It. — Chinchero and its Ruins. — The Table-land. — View of the Valley of Yucay. — Climate of the Valley. — The Andenes, or Gardens of the Incas. — Their Summer Palace. — Urubamba. — The Hacienda Umeres. — Ride to Ollantaytambo. — Ancient Cliff Cemetery. — The Bolson of Antis. — Ancient Fortifications. — The Governor of Ollantaytambo. — Village of Ollantaytambo. — The Ancient Fortress. — Porphyry Slabs. — The Tired Stones. — View from the Fortress. — The Hill of Flutes. — The School of the Virgins. — The Horca del Hombre and Horca de Mujer. — Inca Houses in the Village. — Plan of the Ancient Town. — The Present Inhabitants. — Ride to the Quarries. — Mimbres, or Suspension Bridges. — Perilous Travelling. — The Mountain Road. — Diminutive Shrines. — The Quarries. — Ollantaytambo a Frontier Town. — The Legend of Ollantay 482

Chapter XXV. The Valley Of Yucay

PISAC. Excursion to Pisac. — The Sacred Rock at Calca. — The Circular Building. — Serpentine Channel in the Rock. — Its Design. — Worship of Isolated Rocks. — The Boundary of the Inca Dominion. — The Great Frontier Fortress of Pisac. — Its Commanding Position. — The Approaches to it. — The Inti-huatana, or Solstitial Turret, the best preserved in Peru. — Other Inti-huatanas.— Garcilasso's Account of them. — Ascent to the Fortress of Pisac. — Complex and Elaborate Character of the Works. — Auxiliary Fortifications. — The Burial-place. — Desiccated Corpses. — Character of Peruvian Defensive Works CONTENTS. XVI y

Chapter XXVI. Over The Cordillera, From Cuzco To The Coast

Departure from Cuzco. — Our two Extra Horses, El Nevado and Napoleon. — The Plain and Town of Anta. — Surita, and its Post -keeper. — Limatambo, and its Ruins. — Mollepata. — Guarding our Animals by Night. — Mountain Paths. — Perils of the Road. — Approach to La Banca. — An Aqueduct built upon Arches. — Drunkenness and Goitres. — The Hacienda of Bellavista. — Waiting for Mules. — The Arvtist is afraid to cross the Hanging Bridge over the Apurimac. — La Banca again. — More Delays about Mules. — Gesticulating with the Lips. — Our Artist separates - from us. — The Ancient Inca Roads. — Exaggerated Accounts of them. — They must have followed the Present Lines of Travel. — Character of the Road from Cuzco to the Valley of Yucay. — Obstacles to Travel among the Cordilleras. — The Rivers. — Few Stone Bridges. — Hanging Bridges of Withes. — Present Mode of Construction and Maintenance. — The Great Hanging Bridge over the Apurimac. — The Approach to it. — Its True Dimensions. — Crossing it. — The Tunnel Beyond. — Meeting a Mule-train. — Curahuasi. — A Strange Visitor. — Searching for the Artist.' — Ultimate Tidings of his Fate. — Abancay. — Sculptured Rock at Concacha. — Inta-huatana near Abancay.— Stone Bridge over the Pachachaca. — Andahuaylas. — Talavera. — Moyobamba. — A Stormy Ride. — Chinchero. — Hanging Bridge over the Rio Pampas. — Ocras. — Ayacucho, formerly Guamanga. — Scene of an Important Battle, December 9th, 1624. — Reported Subterranean Palace, with Statues, at Guinoa. — The Cordillera de la Costa. — Through the Despoblado. — A Five Days' Ride. — Lose our Horses. — A Perilous Night Adventure. — The Posada of San Antonio. — First Sight of the Pacific. — Descent to the Coast. — Arrival at Pisco. — Homeward-bound from Lima Page 533

Chapter XXVII. Conclusion

Inca Civilization. — The People, as found by the Spaniards. — Rapidity of their Conquest. — The Civilization of Peru Indigenous. — Nature of Inca Superiority.— Originally Several Tribes. — Quichuas and Aymaras. — Differences not solely owin°* to Physical Conditions. — Probable Course of Union and Development. Growth of Separate Historical Legends, merging into each other. — Legends as transmitted by Garcilasso and Montesinos. — How the Traditions were perpetuated. Their Quippus very Imperfect Means of Record.— Consequent Importance of the Monuments.— What we may learn from them.— Probable Course of the Inca Empire, without the Spanish Conquest.— Date of Peruvian Monuments wholly Uncertain. —Some of them among the Oldest existing.— Reasons why they are not more Numerous.— No Evidence that the Peruvians came originally from Abroad 568

Appendix

m INDEX ILLUSTRATIONS.

Page Gate-way and Valley of Ollantaytambo Frontispiece Map of Peru, indicating the Route of the Author faces 17 The Rampart, Panama 18 City and Bay of Panama 20 Las Bodegas, Guayas River 25 Interior Court, Lima 44 Peruvian Infantry and Cavalry 47 Interior of the Chapel of the Cemetery, Lima 52 View in the Cemetery, Lima 53 Hut on the Estate of San Pedro. ... 66 Shot ata Condor 67 View at Pachacamac 68 Plan of Temple of Pachacamac 69 Plan of Mamacuna, Pachacamac. ... 70 Niche in the Wall, Pachacamac .... 71 Arch at Pachacamac 71 Peruvian Mummies 73 Plan of the Tenement 74 Peruvian Tweezers 75 Pattern of Alpaca Blanket 75 Pattern of Cotton Shroud 76 Ancient Spindle 77 Wallet, folded 77 Wallet, unfolded 77 Spool of Thread 78 Knitting Utensils 78 Skein of Thread 79 Toilet Articles 79 Netting Instrument 79 Dried Parrot 80 Boy's Sling 80 Infant's Burial-net 80 Pottery from Pachacamac 81 Palacio del Rey Inca, Valley of Cafiete 83 Ruins of Hervai, Valley of Cafiete. . . 84 Page Demolishing Huaca, Limatambo. ... 86 Portion of Wall of Huaca near Limatambo 87 Fortified Hill of Colliqui 88 Plan of Ruins at the Hacienda Arriaga, with Section 89 Carved Wooden Idol 90 Wooden Bowl 91 Ear of Maize, in Stone 91 Ruins of Cajamarquilla 92 Section and Plan of Subterranean Vaults 92 Part of Ruins of Cajamarquilla, Valley of the Rimac 93 Door-ways 94 Vase, from Santa 106 The Caballito 109 The Great Pyramid of Moche 131 Plan of the Pyramid 131 Palace, Chimu 136 Hall of the Arabesques, Chimu 137 Figures in Stucco 138 Silver Cup 142 Excavation of the Necropolis, Chimu 144 Specimen of Cloth, Chimu 145 Silver Ornament from Chimu 146 Fish Ornaments from the Chincha Islands 147, 148 Gold Feather Ornament 149 A Strange Structure 150 Tomb B, Necropolis, Chimu 150 Plan of "First Palace," Chimu 152 Sectional View of Walls, Chimu. . . . 153 Figures on Wall, Chimu 153, 154 Ruined Walls, Chimu faces 154 Plan of Reservoir 155 Prison ("First Palace"), Chimu. . . . 157 Plan of " Second Palace," Chimu . . . 159 ILLUSTRATIONS Page Plan of Sub-square, Ruins of Grand Chimu 160 Golden Vase, Chimu 171 Silver Vase, Chimu 171 Golden Plate, Chimu.

One -fourth size 172 Silver Medal, Chimu. One-fourth size 172 Gold and Silver Coins, Chimu. Full size 172 Silver Lizard, Fish, and Serpent, Chimu. Reduced 173 Bird cast in Alloyed Gold. From Cafiete.

Half size 174 Agricultural Implements of Bronze. . 175 Trowel 176 Knives, Chimu 176 War-club 177 Peruvian Pottery 177, 178 Pictorial Design from a Vase, Chimu 180 Model of an Ancient House, from a Vase, Chimu 181 Tambourine-player 181 Syrinx, or Pan's-pipe 182 Trumpet, baked clay 182 Peruvian Vases 183 Modern Peruvian Head 184 Peruvian Vases 185 Combat between the Man of the Earth and the Man of the Sea. ... 186 The Serpent Symbol 186 Snail from Chimu Vase 187 God of the Air 188 Ruins of Huaeatambo, Valley of Rio Nepefia 199 Pyramid of Tierra Firme 201 El Padrejon, Valley of Nepefia 206 Stone Works of Mora 207 Vase at Motocache 2"09 Stone Fortress of Chancayillo, Valley of Casma 211 Plan of the Fortress of Quisque. . . . 213 Plan of the Ruins of Alpaeote 215 Plan of Ruins of Huanuco Viejo./oees 216 The Castillo of Huanuco Viejo 217 Medanos 222 Grand Plaza and Market -place of Arequipa _ 223 Arequipa and the Volcano of Misti .faces 225 Page Port of Islay 227 Tambo of La Joya, Pampa of Islay. . 227 Chart of the Harbor of Ariea 228 The Port and Morro of Ariea. . faces 229 The Alameda of Tacna 233 Equipped for the Cordillera 239 Chulpa, or Burial-tower 243 Aymara Skull 244 The Llama". 246 The Nevados of Taeora and Chipicani, from the Pass of Guavlillos.. faces 249 The Vicuna 250 Nevado and Tambo of Taeora 252 The Casitas of Uehusuma 255 Our Dormitory at ITchusuma 256 Street View in Santiago de Machaca. 261 Aymara Female Head-dress 262 Balsa Bridge over the Rio Desaguadero 265 Illampu (the Crown of the Andes) and Lake Titicaca faces 268 Plan of a Part of the Ruins of Tiahuanuco 276 The American Stonehenge,Tiahuanuco 277 Outer Terrace Walls of Fortress, and Scattered Blocks of Stone 280 Lesser Monolithic Door-way 283 Gate-way at Cemetery — front view . . 284 Gate-way at Cemetery — rear view. . . 285 Symbolical Siab 287 Front of Great Monolithic Gate-way. 288 Back of Great Monolithic Gate-way. 289 Centre Figure on Great Monolith . . . 291 Sculptured Figure on Great Monolith. 292 Head of Statue near Tiahuanueo. . . . 296 Columns and Figures in Stone in Tiahuanueo 297 Head-dress of Indian Female Dancer. 305 Indians celebrating the Chufio, or Potato Festival, Tiahuanueo 306 Cattle feeding on Lake-weed, Lake Titicaca 308 Totora Bridge over the Outlet of Lake Titicaca 309 Entry into the Pueblo of El Desaguadero 311 A Dinner Compliment in Yunguyo. . 315 View of the Bay of Copaeabana, Lake Titicaca faces ILLUSTRATIONS, XIX Page Shrine of Nuestra Sefiora de Copacabana 319 Seats cut in the Rock, Copacabana. . 324 The Bath of the Incas, Copacabana. 325 View from the " Ladera," the Island of Titicaca in the Distance 327 Balsa Navigation on Lake Titicaca. . 328 Map of Lake Titicaca 330 Plan of Ancient Buildings at the Landing, Island of Titicaca 333 Niche in Ruins at Landing, Island of Titicaca 334 The Sacred Rock of Manco Capac. . . 337 Pila, or Fountain, of the Incas, Titicaca 342 Side-view of Palace of the Inca, Island of Titicaca faces 343 Chambers in the