The Polar Regions of the Western Continent explored: embracing a geographical account of Iceland, Greenland, the islands of the frozen sea, and the northern parts of the American Continent ... Together with the adventures, discoveries, dangers, and trials of Parry, Franklin, Lyon, and other...

Front matter

S_ani - TSMT^AM M^l/lv; &t tJ|.e WESTERN CG^TIXE^T di&sbds AY W I X.JL? Jo S^rjBJLIirWG , Bostoit msi. THE POLAR REGIONS OF THH WESTERN CONTINENT EXPLORED ; EMBRACING A GEOGRAPHICAL ACCOUNT OF ICELAND, GREENLAND, THE ISLANDS OF THE FROZEN SEA, AND THE NORTHERN PARTS OF THE AMERICAN CONTINENT, INCLUDING A PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRIES, THE SEAS, IN- HABITANTS, AND ANIMALS OF THOSE PARTS OF THE WORLD : ALSO, A MINUTE ACCOUNT OF THE WHALE FISHERIES, AND THE DANGERS ATTENDING THEM ; WITH REMARKABLE ADVENTURES OF SOME OF THE WHALE FISHERS, ■DESCRIPTIONS OF MOUNT HECLA, AND THE OTHER VOLCANOES OF ICELAND ; Together with the ADVENTURES, DISCOVERIES, DANGERS AND TRIALS OF PARRY, FRANKLIN, LYON, AND OTHER NAVIGATORS, IN THOSE REGIONS. BY W. J. SWELLING, AUTHOR OF 'TALES OF" THE NORTHWEST.' ILLUSTRATED BY A MAP AND ENGRAVINGS.

BOSTON: PRINTED FOR W. W. REED. 1831. DISTRICT OF MASSACHUSETTS— to wit: District Clerk's Office. Be it remembered, That on the fourteenth day of January, A. D. 1631, in the Fifty-fifth year ofthe Independence of the United States of America, Samuel G. Goodrich, of the said District, has deposited in this Office the Title ofa Book, the Right whereof he claims as proprietor, in the words fol lowing, to wit: " The Polar Regions of the Western Continent explored, embracing a geographical account of Iceland; Greenland, the Islands ofthe Frozen Sea, and the northern parts of the American Continent, including a particular descrip tion of the Countries, the Seas, Inhabitants, and Animals of those parts of the world; also a minute account of the Whale Fisheries, and the dangers attending them ; with remarkable adventures of some of the whale fishers, descriptions of Mount Hecla, and the other volcanoes of Iceland; together with the adventures, discoveries, dangers and trials of Parry, Frar.klin, Lyon and other navigators, in those regions.

By W. J. Snelling, author of " Tales ofthe Northwest," illustrated by a Map and Engravings." In conformity to the Act of thj Congress of the United States, entitled " An Act for the encouragement of learning, by securing the copies of Maps, Charts and Books, to the authors and proprietors of such copies, during the times therein mentioned :" and also to an Act entitled " An Act supplemen tary to an Act, entitled, an Act for the encouragement of learning, by secur ing the copies of Maps, Charts and Bouks to the authors and proprietors of such copies during the times therein mentioned ; and extending the benefits thereof lo the arts of designing, engraving, and etching historical and other prints." JNO. W. DAVIS, Clerk ofthe District of Massachusetts.

Preface

Long prefaces are seldom read, and therefore the author, or rather compiler, of the following pages will confine his re marks to an explanation of the plan and scope of his work. The data from which our knowledge of the northern regions is derived are already before the world. Crantz has made us acquainted with Greenland, Parry with the northeastern coast of this continent, and Franklin with the interior. Yet the re sults of their labors are preserved in a form which precludes the majority of readers from profiting by their observations. The Toyages of Captain Parry, for example, as they have heretofore been published, fill several large volumes, and the same may be said of the travels of Captain Franklin and his coadjutors. The object of this work, therefore, is, as its title implies, to give the reader a condensed account of what is known of the northern regions of the new world, from the latest and best au thorities.

To this end the compiler has availed himself of the writings of Henderson, Crantz, Parry, Franklin, Richardson, Kotzebue, and others, and, in many instances, has used their very words. He does not pretend to say all that may be said, nor to record every adventure ofthe enterprising travellers ; but he trusts that he has omitted nothing essential to a knowledge ofthe regions he describes, as far as they are known. Whatev er has appeared to him worthy of commemoration, he has set down ; but unimportant details have been omitted. Whether the task prescribed in these premises has been well or ill performed, it is certain that no work on this plan, or un dertaken with the same object, has yet appeared. Such as the book is, it is now presented to those by whom it must be judged. i CONTENTS. ICELAND.

Chapter I

Of the Geographical Situation of Iceland. — Its Discovery and Colonization. — Patriarchal Government of the early Settlers. — The Icelandic Republic. — Its Government. — Code of Ulfliot. — Code of Bergthor.— The Jonshok. — Conversion ofthe Icelanders. — Subjugation of Iceland to Norway. — Legal Punishments. — Present Government of Iceland. — Attempted Revolution in 1805. Page 1

Chapter II

Geologic Character of Iceland. — Volcanoes and Ice Mountains. — Mount Hecla. — Eruption of Skaptar Yokul. — Its Consequences. — Skaptar Yokul. 9

Chapter III

Situation of the Geysers. — Description of the Great Geyser. — Its Eruption The Strockr. — The Old Strockr.— The little Geyser. — Hot springs at various Places. — Mountains. — Oræfa Yokul. — Crater of Krabla. - 17

Chapter IV

The cave of Surtshellir. — Towns and Settlements. Reykiavik Videy. — Druidical Circle at Thingvalla. — Holuni. — Akur Egri. — Population of Iceland. — Religion and Form of Church Government. — Clergy. — Education. — School at Bessastad. — Icelandic Literature. — Runic Poetry. — Death Song of Regncr Lodbrok. ------ 24

Chapter V

Personal Appearance of the Icelanders. — Character, Language, and Literature. — Dress of the Males. — Dress of the Females. - - - 34

Chapter VI

Cold in Iceland. — Polar Ice. — Winter. — Summer. — The Fishery. — Summer, Occupation of the Icelanders. — Occupation ofthe Women. — Treatment of Strangers. — Pastoral Life. — Houses of the Icelanders. — A Winter Evening in Iceland. — Horses. — Reindeer. — Visit to the Trading, Houses. Exports and Imports. ------ 41

Chapter III

Early History of the Whale Fishery. — Of the Manner in which a Whale Ship is manned. — The Crow's Nest. — Whale Boats. — Implements U6ed in the Whale Fishery. — Whale Killing. — Danger of Striking. - 77

Chapter IV

Farther Account of Whale Killing. — Length of Time required to kill a Whale. — Character of the Whalemen. — Anecdotes of the Greenland Fishery, 83

Chapter V

Account ofthe Discovery of Greenland. — Early History. — America discovered by Icelanders. — Greenlandic Colony in America. — First Appearance of the Esquimaux. — Black Death and Loss of Greenland.— Attempts at Rediscovery and Recolonization. — Greenland recolonized by Hans Egede. 89

Chapter VI

Climate of Greenland. — Seasons and Weather. — Length of Days and Nights. — Flora of Greenland. — Greenlandic Gardens. — General Remarks. — Voyage of Captain Ross. ----._ gg

Chapter VII

Of the Uskees, or Aboriginal Inhabitants of Greenland. — Their physical Characteristics. — Dress. — Their Relations with 'other Tribes. — Progress in Religion and Civilization. — Intercourse with Europeans. — Knowledge in Trade. — Form of Society. - 104

Chapter VIII

Occupations of the Uskees. — Uses of the Whale. — Manner of spending the Winter. — Manner of spending the Summer. — Manner of catching Seak. — Enjoyments of the Uskees. — Language. - - -111 CONTENTS. VII CAPTAIN PARRY'S FIRST VOYAGE.

Chapter I

Object of Parry's First Voyage. — Equipment of the Expedition. — Passage up Davis' s Straits. — Embarrassment in the Ice. - - - 119

Chapter II

, Farther Detention in the Ice. — Whales. — Arrival at Lancaster's Sound. — Land about Possession Bay. — New Lands discovered. — The Vessels are again stopped by the Ice. - -' ;" *" - • ' - 129

Chapter VI

Some Description of the Shores of Melville Island. — The Ships' Companie* win the Premium for penetrating to Longitude 110° West from Greenwich. — Bay of the Hecla and Griper. — Farther Proceedings. — Loss and Sufferings of a Hunting Party. - 155

Chapter XIV

A Boat passes between the Ships and the Shore. — Maximum Heat at Melville Island. — The Vessels are made ready for Departure.- — They weigh Anchor. — Departure from Winter Harbour. — Are stopped by the Ice. — Description of a Part of the Shore. ... 205

Chapter XV

Dangerous Position of the Hecla. — Submarine Ice. — Curious Wall. — Danger ofthe Griper. — A Whale seen. — Discovery of Banks's Land. — Detention by the Ice. — A Musk-Ox killed. — The Ice closes on the Shore. 212

Chapter XVI

Average Thickness of the Ice. — Observations on the State of the Ice. — Farther Detention. — Appearances of this Part of Melville Island. — Great Peril ofthe Griper. — The Griper ordered to retrograde. 219

Chapter XVII

The Hecla moves again. — Position of the Ships. — They move to the Eastward. — Abandonment of the Westward Course. — Musk Oxen. — Retrograde Passage. ----.. 224

CHAPTER XVII.

The Ships explore the West Shore of Baffin's Bay. — Meet Vessels from England. — Esquimaux at the river Clyde. — Their Bcha\iour. - 230

Chapter VIII

Danger of the Seal Hunters. — A Seal Hole. — Manner of Watching Seal Holes. — Manner of Catching Seals and Walrusses. — Another Instance of Thest. — Ferocity of the Wolf. — Esquimaux Dwellings. — Seals killed.— Seal Butchery.— Seals. . - - - . - X CONTENTS.

Chapter IX

Health of the Esquimaux. — Their envious Disposition. — Captain Lyon's Journey. — Removal of Esquimaux, &c. — Captain Parry lodges with the Savages. ...---- 307

Chapter X

Particulars respecting the Esquimaux. — Dissection of the Seal. — Preparations for Departure. — Behaviour of a sick Savage. - - 313

Chapter XI

Captain Lyon's Journey. — Departure of the Esquimaux. — Progress ofthe Season. — The Ships put to Sea. — Description of Winter Island. — Cataract on Barrow's River. — Walrusses killed. — The Ships reach Igloolik. — Igloolik and other Islands. — Strait ofthe Fury and Hecla. 319

Chapter XII

Physical Character of the Esquimaux.— Costume. — Female Avocations. — Sledges, Dogs, Weapons, &c. — Manner of killing Deer and Musk Oxen. 329

Chapter XIII

Travelling. — Marriages. — Treatment of Children. — Theology. — Honesty. — Beggary. — Ingratitude. — Hospitality. — Lying and Slander. — Courage. — The Ships return to England. - - - - - 336 CAPTAIN PARRY'S THIRD VOYAGE. The Ships leave England, and arrive at Disko Island. — The Ice crossed. Arrival at Lancaster's Sound. — Port Bowen.— Aurora Borealis. Animals. — Farther Proceedings. — The Fury wrecked. — Return to England. -------- 343 CAPTAIN FRANKLIN'S TRAVELS.

Chapter I

Object of Captain Franklin's Journey.— His Instructions.— Captain Franklin arrives at Hudson's Bay.— York Factory.— Swampy Crees. — Departure from York Factory.— Tracking.— Indian Anecdote.— Steel River.— Route ofthe party up Hill River. — Arrival at Lake Winnipeg. . CONTENTS. XI

Chapter V

News from Great Slave Lake. — Voyageurs engaged. — Fort Ch-ppewyan — Lake of the Hills. — Chippewyan Tribe. — Their Dress. — Character. — Vanity. — Opinions. — Customs. — Abandonment of their Sick. — A Birch Canoe. - 385

Chapter VI

An Accident. — Arrival of Dr Richardson. — Arrangements for Departure. — Departure. — Portages. — A Buffalo killed. — The Party arrive at Great Slave Lake. — At Fort Providence. — Conference with Akaitcho. 393

Chapter VII

Akaitcho. — Preparations for the Journey. — Fort Providence. — Journey up Yellow Knife River. — Want of Food.— Yellow Knife River. — Mutiny of the Voyageurs.— The party reach their Winter Quarters. — Conduct of Akaitcho. — Departure of Messrs Back and Hood. - - 401

Chapter VIII

Trip to the Coppermine. — Foit Enterprise. — Reindeer. — Departure of Messrs Back and Wentzel. — Conduct of the Indians. — Frozen Fishes. — News from Slave Lake. — Green Stockings. — Temperature. — Diet. — Arrival from Slave Lake. — Esquimaux Interpreters. .... 409

Chapter IX

Message from the Hook.— Conduct of the Interpreters.— Akaitcho.— April- Suffering of the Indians. — Sliding down Hill.— Advance of the Season. — A Supply of Food.— May Weather.— Arrival of Water-Fowl.— Akaitcho arrives.— His Conduct. - - - - -^ 416

Chapter X

Captain Franklin's Reply to Akaitcho.— The Copper Indians. — Keskarrah. — Marriages.— Wars.— Numbers.— The Dog-Ribs. — Their Character.— Residence and Numbers. — The Hare Indians. — The Q.uarrellers Other Tribes. — Behaviour of Akaitcho. — The first Party leaves Fort Enterprise. CONTENTS.

Chapter XI

Captain Franklin leaves Fort Enterprise.— Sufferings of the Men.— The Coppermine.— -Musk Oxen killed. — The Hook.— Portage to Great Bear Lake.— Rapids.— The Copper Mountains.— The Interpreters converse with the Esquimaux —-Flight of the Esquimaux.-— The Esquimaux seen again.— An old Savage. .... 431

Chapter XII

Terregannuck and his People.— More Esquimaux.— The Copper Indians turn back.-— The Party proceed along the Coast, and finally turn back. —Hood's River.— Journey across the Barren Grounds. — Sufferings of the Party.— Tripe de Roche.— The River Anatessy. - 438

Chapter XIII

A Musk-Ox killed.-— The Party come to a Lake and cross a River.— -Danger of Belanger.— They reach Point Lake. — The Canoe left.— They arrive at the Coppermine.-— Adventure of Dr Richardson.-— Efforts to cross.— Fate of Credit and Vaillant. ---Dr Richardson stops.— -Dreadful Sufferings of the Party. ..... 446

Chapter XIV

Perrault turns back.— Fontano is lost. — Captain Franklin reaches Fort Enterprise. — Misery ofthe Party. — Dr Richardson and Hepburn reach Fort Enterprise. — The Crimes of Michel. — Murder of Mr Hood. — Michel is put to Death. — Subsequent Progress of Dr Richardson and Hepburn. ------- 454

Chapter XV

Death of Peltier and Samandre. — Extreme Weakness of the Survivors. — Their Intellects become weak. — Arrival of Indians. — Their Proceedings. — More Indians arrive. — Captain Franklin reaches the Camp of Akaitcho. — Mr Back's Adventures. — Death of Beauparlant. — End of the Journey. -----.. 4go

Chapter XVII

Second Journey of Captain Franklin. — Attack by the Esquimaux. Description ofthe Esquimaux.— Their Women. — Farther Progress. The Expedition returns.— Capt. Beechy. — Doctor Richardson's Voyage. The Esquimaux. — Their Huts. — Observations on the Magnetic Pole. 470 KOTZEBUE'S VOYAGE. Arrival o^Lieut. Kotzebue at Cape Prince of Wales. Discovery of a fourth Island in the Gwozdeff Group. — Dwellings of the Natives.— Conduct of the Savages.— Appearance ofthe Land. — The Natives. Ice- Bergs on Land. — Researches in Kotzebue's Sound. Advantao-es of this Discovery. ------ ILLUSTRATIONS FOR POLAR REGIONS. Hecla and Griper in Winter (Quarters, p. Itil Singular Appearance of the Moon. p. loi. ILLUSTRATIONS FOR POLAR REGIONS. Shooting Harpoon into a Whale. Harpooning** a Seal. p. 115, ILLUSTRATIONS FOR POLAR REGIONS. Shooting- Polar Bear. Black Bear. ILLUSTRATIONS FOR POLAR REGIONS. Shooting; Walrus s lndian-5 ou the Northwest Coast.

Chapter I

Os the Geographical Situation of Iceland. — Its Discovery and Colonization. — Patriarchal Government of the early Settlers. — The Icelandic Republic. — Its Government. — Code of Ulfliot. — Code of Bergthor. — The Jonsbok. — Conversion ofthe Icelanders. — Subjugation of Iceland to Norway. — Legal Punishments. — Present Government of Iceland. — Attempted Revolution in 1805. In compiling a work on the Northern Regions of America, we hope it will not be thought amiss if we begin with Iceland ; though that island has been long considered a part of the old world, and was, perhaps, the Ultima Thule of the Ancients. Lying as it does, much nearer to Greenland than to any part of Europe, it is without doubt a natural appendage of America. It is also attached to the American Continent by Malte Brun, the highest geographical authority of the present day.

It is situated on the verge of the polar circle, between 63° 24' and 66° 30' of north latitude ; and between 13° 15' and 24° 40' of longitude, west from Greenwich. Its length is three hundred, and its breadth one hundred and fifty miles, nearly ; and it has a superficial area of 40,500 square miles. The earliest record of the discovery of Iceland which may be considered authentic, is contained in an ancient work in the Runic tongue, called The Landnamabok, or Book of Occupation. According to this authority, Naddodd, a famous Norwegian pirate, was driven to the shores of Iceland by a storm, about the year 860. He found no inhabitants, nor did he attempt a settlement. It is indeed stated in the Landnamabok that the island was previously settled by Christians from the British Isles ; but as they left no traces of their establishments, and as the assertion is not supported by reference, or other authority, it is fair to conclude, that if the British Christians did indeed come thither, they were only occasional visitors.

Four years after, Iceland was again discovered by Gardar Svafarson, a Swede ; who circumnavigated it, and spent the winter on its shores. The account he gave of it on his return, induced Floki, another Norwegian pirate, to attempt a settlement. He sailed from the Faro Islands, and supplied the want of the compass by dismissing ravens from his ship, and directed his course by their flight. He settled at Vatnsfiord, but devoting too much of his time to the fisheries, his crops failed, and the cattle he had brought with him died in consequence. He passed the winter on the island, gave it the name of Ice land, or the country of Ice, and then abandoned it forever. The companions of Floki gave very favorable i accounts of the natural advantages of the island. They depicted it as a terrestrial paradise, and to express his satisfaction more forcibly, one ot them averred that ' butter dropped from every plant' it produced.

In 870, Ingolf and Hiorleif, two Norwegians, wintered on the island, and on their return to Nor way took measures to plant a colony, which they effected in 874. On their near approach to the shore, Ingolf threw the timber he had brought to construct a dwelling into the sea, and made a vow that he would build his house wherever it floated on shore. It came to land near Reykiavik, the present capital of Iceland. To escape the usurping tyranny of Harold Har sager, the then king of Norway, many of the petty princes of that part of Scandinavia fled to Iceland In a short time the entire coast was occupied by their dependants and followers, and Harold, to pre vent the depopulation of his realms, was obliged to impose a heavy fine on such as should leave Nor way for Iceland. In 928 the Icelanders erected a regular republic.

They divided their island into four quarters, or di visions, over each of which a chief magistrate, elected by the free suffrages of the people, presided Each quarter was subdivided into three prefectures, or sheriffdoms, governed, severally, by an officer whose duty it was to preserve order, to call assemblies to try causes, to preside in such assemblies, and to see the punishments they awarded carried into effect. The prefectures were again divided into districts called Hrepps, consisting of such fam ilies as resided in the same neighbourhood, and much resembling the hundreds of the Anglo Saxons. Over each of these a Hreppstiori, or headborough, was appointed, who was bound by his office to take care of the poor of his own district, to prevent their number from increasing, and to preside over inferior courts, each of which was to consist of four land holders.

Such affairs as could not be settled in these courts were to be carried before the sheriff's court, to which the Hreppstiori were amenable. In extraordinary cases, there was an appeal to a court formed of deputies from the four quarters, but this court only assembled in cases of extreme emergency. Lastly, there was a final court of appeal, called The Althing, or General Assembly of the Nation, held annually, and which sat sixteen days. In this assembly the laws of the nation were enacted, and here all differences were finally adjusted. The presiding officer was termed the Publisher of the Law, and his judgment, when confirmed by the peo ple, was decisive. He was elected by the people, and commonly held his office for life. He had the custody of the standard copy of the laws. He had power to reverse the sentences of inferior magis trates, and of punishing them, on sufficient proof of malversation in office.

So much importance did the Icelanders attach to this officer, that they com puted time from the date of his administration. In 927, Ulfliot, a learned Icelander, offered a code which he had prepared, to the acceptance of the General Assembly. It was adopted, and be came the statute law of the island. At the same time, Thingvalla, having been confiscated to the use of the nation, became the permanent seat of the Althing. This code was an abstract of the laws then in force in Norway. In 1118 it was superseded by an improved code by Bergthor, then Publisher of the Law, and this code, in 1280, gave place to another, called Jonsbok, which obtains, in most in stances, to this day. Thus did a number of free persons, many of whom had been princes, establish a government as liberal in its principles as any that ever existed.

They enacted laws that have been pronounced by competent judges admirably calculated to protect individual rights and privileges, and every way adapt ed to their peculiar circumstances. This state of things continued four hundred years, and was at last subverted by intestine broils and bloody quar rels, fomented and encouraged by the kings of Nor way. One attempt was made to introduce Christianity into Iceland, a little more than a century after its colonization. In 981, a Norwegian pirate brought over a bishop, and acted as interpreter to his mis sionary labors. They did not fully succeed, more especially as the pious pirate had, in the excess of his zeal, slain two ofthe heathen bards for satirizing the rites of his new faith ; but they persuaded the Icelanders to refuse to pay the customary tax to support the worship of Thor and Odin.

A few re- 1* ceived baptism, and a church was built, though not without much opposition. Other missionaries were sent by Olave, king of Norway, but they only served as marks for the satire of the Runic poets. Such as they did con vert were fined, and at last were banished from Ice land. Persecution had its usual effect. The Christians gained ground, and in the year 1000 they obtained, after a hard struggle, that their worship should be tolerated. In the course of time, the whole of the population embraced Christianity. In 1551, the doctrines of Luther were fully introduced among them, and are still the ground of their faith, though a small number ofthe Icelandic clergy are Socinians. Haco succeeded in subjugating the island. In 1261 the greater part ofthe people became tributary to him, and the rest submitted four years after.

Even in their submission the Icelanders preserved the spirit of a free people, for the changes intro duced by Norway were slight, and no foreign mili tary force ever set foot on the island. They stipu lated that they should retain their ancient rights ancl laws ; that King Haco should be bound to con tinue the importation of the necessary articles of foreign produce, and that they should be governed by an Earl expressly appointed for that purpose. If the King of Norway should fail to fulfil these con ditions, they were free to withdraw their allegiance. In 1800 the venerable Althing was abrogated, and a supreme court substituted in its room at Reyki avik, consisting of a Chief Justice, two Assessors, and a Secretary. This court meets once a month, and decides on criminal and other cases ; but the Icelanders have the privilege of appealing from its decisions to the high court in Denmark.

In ancient times, scarcely any other than pecuniary punish ments obtained. Criminals were fined in a certain number of marks, each of which amounted to rather more than an ounce of fine silver, and was equal to fortyeight ells of woollen cloth ; but as this mode of punishment was found ineffectual to the preven tion "of crime, the laws became gradually more severe, and at last capital punishments were introduced. Hanging was the mode inflicted for mur ders, drowning for child murder, and burning for witchcraft. At present, fines, imprisonment, and whipping are the only punishments inflicted in Ice land. Such as are capitally convicted, it is necessary to send over to Copenhagen to be beheaded ; it being a curious fact that, for some time past, no person could be found on the island who would execute the sentence of the law.

At present, Iceland is governed by a Shiftamtman, who is appointed by his Danish majesty, and is bound to fill this office for the space of five years. He is generally one of the younger branches of a noble family, has a salary of about £500 per annum, and is entitled to preferment on his return to Den mark. He is likewise special governor of the southern quarter of the island in which he resides ; and has two Amtmen, or deputy governors, one for the western, and another for the northern and eastern quarters. These quarters are divided into syssels or sheriffdoms, the boundaries of which are much the same as those fixed in the ancient consti tution; and they are governed by a Sysselman, whose office also resembles that of the ancient sher iffs — except that he has a lease of the King's taxes, and accounts to the royal treasurer for the amount.

The syssels are again divided into a number of hrepps, each of which is placed under the inspec tion of a hreppstion or constable, answering to the bailiff of former times. There is besides, another public officer called the Landfoged, or steward, who is treasurer or re ceiver-general for the island, and at the same time, tax-gatherer of Gullbringe Syssel and police master of Reykiavik. In 1805, an Icelander, by name Jorgenson, at tempted to revolutionize the island. He made the Danish governor prisoner, seized the reins of government into his own hands, and declared the nation independent. Not being supported by the British government as he expected, things soon reverted to their former state.

Chapter II

Geologic Character of Iceland.— Volcanoes and Ice Mountains.— Mount Hecla.— Eruption of Skaptar Yokul.— Its Consequences.— Skaptar Yokul. Iceland is a chain of immense rocks, in the structure of which trap and basalt predominate. Their summits are crowned with snow, though everlasting fire burns in their subterranean caverns. Judging from its analogy with -islands of known volcanic origin, and from the appearance of new islands near its shores within a century, there is little doubt, that it was thrown up by fires burning, perhaps, below the bottom of the ocean. Tracts of lava traverse the island in every direc tion. The general appearance of the country is the most rugged and dreary imaginable. On every side are the yawning craters of active or extinguish ed volcanoes, the sources of the surrounding deso lation.

As if nature delighted to bring the most heterogeneous parts of matter in contact, the burn ing lava often gushes out of a solid mass of ice, and carries with it in its devastating course, a torrent of hot, muddy water. We have neither time nor room to describe the tracts which are, or have been, inundated and covered with lava. Suffice it to say that the vents through which it has flowed are twentynine in number, and of these nine are still active ; namely, Krabla, Leirhnukr, Biarnarflag, Hitahol, Hecla, Kotlugia, Solheima, Oræfa, and Skaptar Yokul. These are the principal, but there are besides a countless number of smaller cones and craters, from which streams of liquid flame are, or have been, poured on the surrounding regions. Celebrated as this island has been for its volca noes and hot springs, it is scarcely less remarkable on account of the enormous ice-mountains which occupy a vast portion of its surface.

To these mountains the natives give the name of Yokuls, which signify large masses of ice. Though covered with coats of ice of immense thickness, when the internal parts of the mountains become ignited, the mass of ice, or indurated snow, is cracked and rent by the explosion which ensues; a great quantity of it is melted by the flames, or the exundations of hot water ; and whole fields of ice are sometimes deposited on the neighbouring plains. Some of these Yokuls are remarkable for their vacillation ; not remaining in a settled position, but moving forwards and receding again at certain in definite periods. Mount Hecla, the most celebrated of the volca noes of Iceland, is neither the highest of its mountains, nor of the most striking aspect. The Trehern ing or Three Horned Mountain, has a far nobler and more picturesque appearance.

Many of the mountains are higher. It is situated about thirty miles back from the coast, and is estimated at somewhat near 4000 feet in height. Its summit is divided into three peaks, the middle of which is the highest. The craters form vast hollows on the sides of these peaks, and, according to the last accounts, are partially filled with snow. The mountain itself consists for the most part of sand and slags; the lava being confined to the lower regions, and forming an immensely ragged and vitrified wall around its base. From this circumstance it has been concluded that the lava has not proceeded from the crater at the summit of Hecla, but from apertures at no great elevation on its sides. Sir George M'Kenzie, Dr Holland, and Mr Bright are the last travellers who have ascended Mount Hecla.

On the 3d of August, 1810, they gained its summit, at which time they observed the vapor of water ascending from several parts of the middle peak, and the heat in the mountain was so intense, that on removing a few of the slags from the surface, they found those below too hot to be handled ; and on placing a thermometer among them, it rose to 144°. This famous volcano without doubt emitted lava previous to the settlement of the island. Since that date, twentythree of its eruptions are on record. They have occurred at intervals of many years, and more than sixty have elapsed since the last. The most dreadful volcanic eruption on the re cords of Iceland was not from Hecla, but from Skap tar Yokul. It took place in 1783. To avoid repe tition we shall give an account of it, as an example of the calamities which have occurred in the island from the same cause, premising that no other ever produced more lamentable consequences.