Travels in Kashmir, Ladak, Iskardo, the countries adjoining the mountain-course of the Indus, and the Himalaya, North of the Punjab

Front matter

■ , , I. ,-. - TRAVELS IN KASHMIR, LADAK, ISKARDO, THE COUNTRIES ADJOINING THE MOUNTAIN-COURSE OF THE INDUS, AND THE HIMALAYA, NORTH OF THE PANJAB. WITH MAP ENGRAVED BY DIRECTION OF THE HON. EAST INDIA COMTANY, AND OTHER ILLUSTRATIONS. By G. T. VIGNE, Esq. F.G.S. AUTHOR OF A PERSONAL NARRATIVE OF A VISIT TO GHUZNI, KABUL, AND AFGHANISTAN. " I look out with great anxiety for your map and book relating to Cashmere and Gilghit, &c, by far the most interesting portion of your wanderings, and which will fill up a great blank." — Extract of a Letter from Sir A. Burnes to the Author, dated Cabul, Sept. 16, 18-41. " Cashmere still maintains its celebrity as the most delicious spot in Asia, or in the world." — Elphinstone's India, vol. ii. p. 286. " Eoam tentare fidem, populosque bibentes Euphratem ; * * Medorum penetrare domos, * * Arva super Cyri, Chaldæique ultima regni, Qua rapidus Ganges et qua Nyssæus Hydaspes Accedunt pelago." — Lucan, Civ.

Bell. Lib. viii. 1. 213, &c. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. LONDON: HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1842. LONDON: PRINTED BY MOYES AND BARCLAY, CAS1I.F. STREET, LEICESTER SQUARE.

Chapter I. Page

The Indian Ceres — Ancient Excavations — Singular Cave — Hindu Ruins — The Bear's Spring — Copper-Mine — Hindu Shrine — Legend of the Shrine — Singular Rock — A candid Pundit — Shepherd's Village — Cave of Umur Nath — Religious Ceremonies — Native Account of the Cave of Umur Nath — The Angel of Death and Siva — The Blue Water — Attempt to reach Umur Nath — The Golden Lake — Encamping-place of the Pilgrims — Auguries from the Flight of Birds — Superstition and Priestcraft — Marriage Customs — A Hindu Widow — The Emblem of the Dove — Its sacred Character in various Countries — Origin of the Emblem — Game in Kashmir — The Stag of Kashmir — Numerous Bears — Wild Animals — The Otter — No Hares in Kashmir — The Royal Partridge — Waterfowl — Bitterns — Eagles — Falcons — Boa Constrictor — Poisonous Snake — The River Lidur — Bij Beara — Bridges of Kashmir — Great Temple — Ancient Capital of Kashmir — Wentipur — Forster — Changes in the Valley ... 3

Chapter II

Trahul — Residence of the Sikhs — Southern Slopes of the Himalaya — Effects of Aspect on Vegetation — Pampur — Hindu VOL. II. b PAGE Temple — Plains and Saffron-grounds of Pampur— Cultivation of Saffron— Alexander in Kashmir— Warm Spring in the Mountains — Iron-Mine— Hindu Ruins — Enormous Pillar — Singular Relics— Mystery of their Origin— Remarkable Build ing — Tricks upon Travellers— General Features of the Valley —Remarkable Hill— Islamabad— Exquisite Temple— Ruined Serai— The Ramu River— The Chanz River— Survey of the Valley— Throne of Solomon— Indian Notions of Solomon- Origin of the Name of Kashmir — Fire Worship — Divisions of the Valley— The Emperor Baber— Tamerlane in Kashmir — Timur — Various Invaders of the Valley — Religion of Kash mir — Traditions — Early Fame of Kashmir — Different Sects — Characters of the Hindu and the Kashmirian . 29

Chapter III

Tukt-i- Suliman — Singular Building on its Summit — Panoramic View of the Valley — Fort of Kashmir — Exquisite Scenery — Aspect of the City— Moore's Description of the Valley — Beautiful Lake — The far-famed Shalimar— Floating Gardens — Scenery of the Valley — Course of the Jylum — The Great Lake — Kashmir not India — Tiger-hunting and Muligatani — The British Flag in Kashmir — Its consequences — The Apple-tree Canal — Ruined Floodgate — The Amir's Bridge — Fort and octagonal Tower — Visiting Etiquette — Importance of Display — Runjit Singh — A jolly Rajah — Horrible Cruelty — A Wife baked alive by her Husband — A Rajah murdered — Huri Singh — Kupar Ram — Treachery of Runjit — A deposed Rajah — The Great Earthquake — The King of the Panjab — Hindu Ruins — Destruction of Public Buildings by Fanaticism — Tomb of Budshah — Lallah Rookh — Jehan Gir — First Mosque erected in Kashmir — The Great Mosque — Kashmirian Legend — Beautiful Tomb — Singular Sacrifice of a Boy — The Huri Purbut — The City of the Lake — The Fruits of Kashmir — Climate of Kashmir — Curious Canal — Public Buildings — Floating Gardens — The Prophet's Hair — The sacred Mule — The five immortal Animals — The Feast of Roses Other Feasts of the Hindus in Kashmir — Noble Grove Growth of the Chunar — Enormous one in Persia V

Chapter IV. Page

The City Lake— The River of Oil— Glacier— The Shalimar— Splendid Ruins — The Sikh Governor — Oriental Ideas of Drinking— A Visit— Trial of Skill— The Isle of Chunars— A pleasant Encounter — Baron Hugel — Dr. Henderson — His Dangers and Adventures — Runjit Singh — M. Avetabile — The Agra Bank — Commemorative Inscription — First Travellers in Kashmir — Kashmirian Boatmen — Village of Bryn — Hospitality — Tea in Kashmir — Panorama — The Shah Sahib — Jealousy of Runjit — The Golden Island — The Lotus — The Water-nut — Atmospheric Phenomenon — Fly-fishing in Kashmir — Fish of the Country — Extraordinary Fish — Revenue and Commerce of Kashmir — Manufactures — Medicine — Manufacture of Shawls — The Wool — Proofs of Shawl-making — Dyeing — Peculiarity of the Water of Kashmir — Shawl Brokers and Shawl Merchants . . . . .99

Chapter V

City of the Sun — Peasants of Kashmir — Epistolary etiquette — Tribes and Clans — Musalmans and Hindus — Akber in Kashmir — Women of the Valley — Their Beauty — Gipsies — Dancing Girls — Tour of the Valley — The Place of Marriage — Confluence of the Jylum with the Sind — The Duras Pass — Simbul — Beautiful Lake — An awkward Encounter with Bears — Ruins of Hindu Temple — The Sacred Lake — Shepherd's Tent and Family — Curious Dog brought to England by the Author — The Holy Lake — No Satis in Kashmir — Funeral Ceremonies — The Great Lake — Island in it — Origin of the Lake — Waterfowl and Plants — Fish of the Lake — Course of the Jylum — Sikh Fort — Panoramic View — The Sacred Peaks — Ancient Kings of Kashmir — Vast Ruins — Man hanging — Bears — Ciuious Fact — Beauty of the Scenery — The Burying-ground — Baramula — Idol-house — Votive Offering — Course of the Jylum — The Rishis — The Mountain of Flowers — Hindu Remains — Waters of Immortality — The Deodar — Noxious Exhalations — Wild Animals — Primeval Scenery- — Sacred Fountain — Ancient Tomb — Tour of the Valley concluded . VI CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME. PAGE

Chapter VI

Return to Baramula — Course of the Jylum — Gradual Draining ofthe Lakes in Kashmir — Forest of Deodars — Loghouses and Hindu Ruin — Massive flight of Steps — Enormous Stones — Sarcophagus — Singular Building — Ruins of a Serai — Mountain Scenery — Wild Olives — Path of the Emperor Akber — Serpent-eater — Kathai — The Baramula Pass — History of its first Capture by the Sikhs — Mazufurabad — Sources of the Kishengunga River — Dherabund — Village and Sikh Fort — Musalman Monument — Baron Hugel — An angry Sikh — Complaints to Head-quarters — Nushera — The Dor River — Falcons — The Sugar-cane and Plantain — Messenger from Runjit Singh — Torbela on the Indus — The Tribe of Joseph — The celebrated Wah Gardens — Jehan Gir — Summer-house and Bath — The Plain of Attok — Vegetation of the Plain— Mr. Elphinstone and Lieutenant Burnes — Aspect of the Country — The Salt Range — Rare Bird — Navigation of the Jylum — The Ghuka Chief— His Capital 175

Chapter VII

Captain Wade — Iskardo, the Capital of Little Tibet — The Author the first European who visits it — Attempt at Intimidation — Jews of Ladak, Eaters of Human Flesh — Ahmed Shah — Departure for Little Tibet — Bundurpur — Feeders of the Great Lake — Messenger from Ahmed Shah — Doubts and Fears — Traveller's Tales of Wonder — A travelling Merchant — Mountain Pass — Table-land of Deotsuh — The Peak of Diarmul — Splendid Mountain View — The Sacred Waters — The River of Krishna— The Valley of Gurys — Governors of the Valley— Entry into Little Tibet— Valley of Tylil— Bears- Courage of an English Terrier — Halting-place — The River of Krishna — Poisonous Fish — Poisonous Snake — Wild Region — Mountain Defiles — Kababs— Classical Meal — Geology and Vegetation— Villages of Little Tibet— Sher Singh Diplomacy — Cunning of Ahmed Shah — The Son of Ahmed Shah — Mahometan Prejudices — Wild Gooseberry — First Introduction to Ahmed Shah — Tibetian Military Music — Singular Scene — Cortege of the Shah — Tibetian Costume — A Band of PAGE Robbers — Attack and Destruction of them — Departure for Iskardo — Origin of the Guelphs — Ahmed Shah's Respect for England — Tibetian Sandals — Rock and Stronghold . . 195

Chapter VIII

Descent from the Mountain — Singular Defile and Pass — The Rajah of Rondu — A Traitor — Intercession and Mercy — A Scramble — The Indus — The Gylfo's Castle — Splendid View — Ascent of the Killah — Origin of Tibet — Isolated Peaks — Division of the Country — Residence of the Grand Lama — Descendant of Alexander the Great — Iskardo — Origin of Buddhism — The Royal Race of Gylfos — Their History — Inauguration of the Sovereign — A Runaway Heir-apparent — Gulab Singh — Mahomed Ah Khan — Achmet Ali Khan — Dr. Falconer — Singular Treatment of the Smallpox — The Army of Little Tibet— Provision for the Soldiers killed in Action — Caste in Little Tibet — Ceremony of Marriage — Valley of the Indus — Soil of the Valley — Effects of Irrigation — Singular Block of Granite — Lakes in Iskardo — Magnificent Spring — Cultivation of the Land — Landholders — Sepahis — Crops and Fruits ofthe Valley — Raisins — Singular Preparation of Wheat Tea in Tibet — Climate and Language of the Valley — The Valley of Shighur — The Rajah's House and Fort — Ahmed Shah — March through the Valley — Wild and magnificent Scenery — Irrigation — Inhabitants of Little Tibet — Reception of the Rajah on his Progress — Fruits and Grain of the Valley — Singular Raft — Passage of the Indus — An odd Scene — Hot Spring .......... 243

Chapter IX

The Yak, or Grunting Ox of Tibet — The Kuch-Kar — Known to Alexander the Great — Mr. Blythe — The Ibex — The Mar- Khur, or Serpent-eater — Gigantic Goat — The Sha, or Goat- Deer — The Musk-Deer — Leopards, Bears, and Wolves of Tibet — The Fox and Hare — The royal Partridge, and other Game — Oriole — Fishing in the Indus — Himalaya Trout — Snake — Freedom of the Valley from Reptiles — A Traveller's Stories — Former Road to Yarkund — Singular Rock — Hot Spring — CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME. PAGE Magnificent Glacier — Gold-dust Stream — Washing for Gold dust — Marmots — Account of Herodotus — Ants as big as Foxes — Defile and Glacier — Projected Journey over the Muz tak — Nagyr — Gold-washing — Gilghit — Banks of the Indus towards Ladakh — Shighur — Singular Equestrian Game — Hocky on Horseback — Horses of Little Tibet — Rocky Defile — Mountain Pass and Glacier — Achmet Ali Khan — The Dead alive — A Dose of Calomel — Mountain Ascent — Five Glaciers — Glorious View — A Philosophic Tailor — Village, with an Iron- Mine — Husara — The Rajah — Hospitable Reception — Con clave at the Rajah's — The Dangri Language — Singular Ideas of the Natives regarding Englishmen — The Sunis — Course of the Husara River — Vegetation of the Banks — Wild Animals — Two Hot Springs — Portal of the Indus — Its Course through the Panjab — The Valley of Gilghit — Religious Ceremonies — The Rajah of Gilghit — His Refusal to let the Author enter his Country — Return to Kashmir — Gilghit — Wine-making — Habits of the People — Lieutenant Wood — -Antiquities in Yessen — Relics of Alexander the Great — Rajah of Astor — The Chitral Valley— Kafiristan— Death of Dr. Henderson . 277

Chapter X

Ascent of the Indus — Confluence of its two great Branches — Male and Female River — The Nubra branch of the Indus — Stupendous Mountains — Mountain Villages — Singular Path — Scenery of the Alpine Indus— The Place of the Rock — Native Physician— A native Medical Treatise — Diseases of Tibet — Asthma — Game— Castle of Chorbut — Native Sword-dance — Defile of Hanu— The Sikhs surprised — Ascent of the Hanu Pass — Magnificent View— Descent of the Mountain — The Bhuts Villages— Costume of the Bhuts— Incense-dishes— Mode of Salaaming— The Hanu Stream— A Consultation— A Salvator Rosa Scene — The Rajah of Parkuta— Swing Bridges— Passing the River— The Rajah's Cook drowned— Performance of a Conjurer— Fortress of Ahmed Shah— Narcotic Plant — Chinese Territory in Little Tibet— Singular Buddhist Buildings — First Village of Great Tibet The Lamas, or Priests of Great Tibet— A Visit from them— Bed of TAGE the Indus at Kulutzi — Dr. Henderson — Hatred ofthe Tibetians for the Sikhs— Bridge burned to impede the Author's Progress — Swearing on the Koran — Gulab Singh and Runjit — Gulab Singh and the English — The Author's Progress stopped by Gulab Singh — The Sikhs and the Ladakhis — Village of Kemis — Solitary Dwelling of a Lama — Character of the Ladakh Country — Pituk — Costume of the Lamas and Gelums — Enor mous Mountains — Banks of the Indus — Leh — Residence of the Rajah — Buddhist Monuments — Residence of Mr. Moor croft — Babylonian Building — Mountain Plains — Commerce of Ladakh — Exports from Kashmir to the Panjab . .315

Chapter XI

Arrival at Ladakh — Obstacles and Difficulties — Ill-treatment of the Author — Seeking Redress — The Lamaic Religion — Dr. Wiseman on Buddhism — Rajahs and ex-Rajah of Ladakh — Jealousy of the Sikhs — The Grand Lama — An Adventure with the ex-Rajah — How to Astonish the Natives — Juan Singh — Presents and Civilities — Visit to Nubra — Mountain Pass — The Muztak — Descent of the Mountain — Shy-Yok — Road to Yarkund — Castle and Village — Game — Character of the Valley ofthe Nubra — Kurukurum Mountains — Etymology — The Nubra Tsuh — Fall of a Glacier — Fearful Inundation — Meeting of Five Streams — Fatal Snow-falls — Yarkund City — Timur's Capital — Habits and Manners of the Yarkundis — A Wife for a Season — The Yarkundi's love of Tea — The Plains of Yarkund — Road to Pekin — Celebrated Tulip-ground — Singular Idol — Return to Little Tibet — Reception by Ahmed Shah — A handsome Offer of Gulab Singh — Interview with Runjit Singh — Complaints against Gulab Singh — Intrigues and Jealousies — The double Deceit — Runjit and Gulab Singh — Capture of Iskardo by Gulab Singh — Influence of British Travellers — Captain Wade, Political Agent at Lodiana . 349

Chapter XII

Intended Visit to Kokan — Delays and Difficulties — The Rajah of Hunzeh — Dr. Falconer — Astonishing the Natives — A Russian Spy — More Difficulties thrown in the Author's Way — X CONTENTS OF THE SECOND VOLUME. PAGE A fresh Start — Mountain Pass — Singularly wild Spot — Poi sonous Plant— A Night Storm on the Mountain — Ascent of a Glacier — Shooting the Ibex — A Night on the Glacier — Converting a Hindu — A Snow-fall on the Glacier — Disap pointment — A Lucky Escape — A marvellous Rock — Hot Spring— Letter to Runjit Singh— Dr. Falconer— The Duras Pass— Ahmed Shah— A grand Hunt — Leave-taking — Ascent of the Ladakh River — A Comet — The Wolf's Leap — Return to the Sikh Territory — Designs of Gulab Singh — Sikh Castle — Singular Pillars — Duras — Crossing Glaciers — The Hill of Siva — The Jesuit Missionary Desideri — The Sind River — The Golden Hill — Sikh Custom-house — Gund-i-Sur-Singh — Im proved Scenery — The Valley of the Sind — Splendid View — A Kashmirian Tailor ....... 379

Chapter XIII

Arrival at Lodiana — Sir Henry Fane — Navigating the Sutlij — Scenery — Alligators — The Persian Water-wheel — The late Sir William M'Naghten and Shah Shuja — The Indus — The Author's Pilgrimages on the Indus — Its sacred Character — Palm-groves — The Bolan Pass — Lieutenant Wood — Arabic Inscription — Sir Willoughby Cotton— Sir Alexander Burnes — The Tamarind-fish — Hydrabad — Facilities for Navigating the Indus — The Lohanis — Native Preserves — The Amirs of Sind — The Sind Hound — Singular Death of three British Officers — A burning Jungul — British Detachment — An agreeable Evening — Vegetation of the Country — "Lions" and Alligators — Karachi — Bad Accommodation — Arrival at Bombay — Promontory of Aden — The Isthmus of Suez — Cairo — Visit to the Pyramids — A Magician — Tricks upon Travellers — Interview with the Pacha — Mehemet Ali and Runjit — Their Characters and Actions compared and contrasted — The Battle of Nezib — Return to Europe — Greece — The Piræus — Trieste Steam-boat — The Greek Islands — Venice — Munich Lord Erskine — Lake of Staremberg — Celebrity of Strauss Rotterdam — London — Conclusion ... . 403 Appendix No. I. — Kashmirian Measures . . . 429 Appendix No. H. — Vocabulary .... 430 Observations ....... 440 Appendix No. Ill 4g3 TRAVELS IN KASHMIR.

Chapter I

The Indian Ceres — Ancient Excavations — Singular Cave — Hindu Ruins — The Bear's Spring — Copper-Mine — Hindu Shrine — Legend of the Shrine — Singular Rock — A candid Pundit — Shepherd's Village — Cave of Umur Nath — Religious Ceremonies — Native Account of the Cave of Umur Nath — The Angel of Death and Siva — The Blue Waters — Attempt to reach Umur Nath — The Golden Lake — Encamping-place of the Pilgrims — Auguries from the Flight of Birds — Superstition and Priestcraft — Marriage Customs— A Hindu Widow — The Emblem of the Dove — Its sacred Character in various Countries — Origin of the Emblem — Game in Kashmir — The Stag of Kashmir — Numerous Bears — Wild Animals — The Otter — No Hares in Kashmir — The Royal Partridge — Waterfowl — Bitterns — Eagles — Falcons — Boa Constrictor — Poisonous Snake — The River Lidur — Bij Beara — Bridges of Kashmir — Great Temple — Ancient Capital of Kashmir — Wentipur — Forster — Changes in the Valley. VOL. 11. B TRAVELS IN KASHMIR LITTLE TIBET, SsC. Ssc.

CHAPTER I.

At the village of Sum, not far from Bowun, is a well-sculptured figure of Sri, the Indian Ceres, or Lucksmi, as the goddess of plenty, in black marble, and about two feet in length, being the best spe cimen of the kind that I know of in Kashmir. Proceeding along the northern side ofthe Kary wah of Islamabad, we arrive at the place where the higher ranges begin to descend upon it; and at this spot alone, near the highest end ofthe valley, the most ungeologi cal would be convinced of its having once coniained a lake, as the remains of beaches formed of shingly conglomerate, are to be seen there deposited in horizontal layers, and resting upon distorted limestone strata. But I have before noticed this place, in my general remarks made upon entering the valley. Close at hand are some small ancient excavations in the limestone-rock, even with the ground, but not displaying any ornamental sculpture.

They appear to be made for shelter rather than for any other e2 UNFATHOMABLE CAVE. purpose; at least I was not able to discover one. Above them is a porch, elevated ou the perpen dicular face of the rock in which it is cut. The old pathway has been much injured, and I clam bered up with some difficulty. Within is a small antechamber, from which a few steps lead into another excavation behind it; but I was deterred from going beyond the entrance, by the stench arising from the innumerable bats that I disturbed, which was rendered absolutely insupportable by the great heat ofthe weather. The Musalman, I may here remark, says that the bat was originally formed from a piece of clay, which Jesus Christ Mas accidentally mould ing with his fingers, and that God gave it life after wards, for the sake of its divine maker.

The excavation, is a dark and dismal-looking place, well suited to the purposes and trickery of priestcraft, which I have little doubt from its appear ance were in full play within aud near it. Perhaps this is the unfathomable cave which Abu Fuzl says is on one side ofthe springs of Bawun. On the ground, are the ruins of two Hindu temples, of the same shape as the interior building of Martund. The fine strath which I was ascending was the Pergunah of Kahawa, orKaurah Parah. Kahawa signifies the left, and Parah is a corruption of Pergunah. Duchin signifies the right, and Duchin Parah, is on the right side of the river Lidur, which flows downwards through the strath, to bear to a junction with the Jylum, about three miles above Bij Beara. It is a very large river, inferior only to the Veshau, and when swollen with rain or melted snows its flood rushes down towards the plain with great impetuosity.

Harput Nag, or the Bears Spring, may be visited COPPER-MINE. either from or on the way to Eysh Makam. It lies at the extremity of a strath that well deserves its name, being covered with the wildest jungul. I saw a wild cat, and my dogs unharboured a young bear, at which I got a snap shot ; but he escaped to the mountains, by shuffling away at a pace I could not have given him credit for. The place is remarkable for its copper-mine, which formerly gave employment to numbers of workmen ; but. such is the arbitrary and oppressive nature of the Sikh rule that it is not now worked at all. Sher Singh, when governor of the valley, tried all he could to induce the people to resume their labours, but without effect. When compelled to work they will bring the demanded quantity of ore, but take particular care that it should produce little or no metal, and their masters know nothing about the matter.

It is useless to attempt to punish them : the unfortunate Kashmirian is quite aware that his wages would probably not be paid, that the produce of his labour will nevertheless be taken, and that the display of a little will be the sure incentive to a demand for more ; and these are reasons far more cogent than those that cause a strike amongst European operatives. I entered what I was informed was the principal mine. It extended into the quartzose rock, in a slanting direction, for not more than twenty-five yards. The interior was much coloured by a nitrate of copper. I procured what purported to be specimens of the ore, but suspect that they were not of the best. The long building at the village of Eysh Makam,* which encloses the shrine of a saint, is conspicuously * The delightful halting-place or residence.

SINGULAR ROCK. situated, on the lofty left bank over the Lidur, and is seen from a great distance. Zyn-u-Din,# for such was his name, was one of the four principal disciples of Shah Nur-u-Din,t of whom more anon, and for about twelve years before his death he lived in a cave, which I have seen, at a village near Litur in Duchin Parah. He then, in imitation of the prophet Ali, told his disciples not to follow him, said that his end was approaching, and enjoined them to place a tomb to his memory where his staff should be found. It was discovered in a low and narrow cave at Eysh Makam, and the tomb lies in a nook at the extremity, distant only a few paces from the mouth. His body, they would have the world believe, was never found at all. After a wild and beautiful ride through the woods and along the banks of the Lidur, I reached the once large and flourishing village of Butakot; and thence proceeded, in the same day, to Gunysh Bui, or the place of Gunysh or Ganesa, the only son of Siva and Parbuti, and whose name is said to be the same as that of Janus.

It owes its celebrity to a large frag ment of a rock, that lies in the torrent of the Lidur, and has been worn by it into what none but a Hindu would discover to bear the faintest resemblance to the head of an elephant, with which Gunysh is always re presented : a trunk and a pair of ears and eyes had been added by the painter's hand. The Pundit, who resides in a house on the spot, admitted that he had long sought the favour of the god, but that he had rarely given a favourable answer to his prayers. Just before reaching Gunysh Bui, the strath * The ornament of the faith. f The light of the faith. SHEPHERD'S VILLAGE. 7 narrows to a defile ; but it there again opens upon a triangular plain, about a mile in length, and bounded on all sides by beautiful slopes, covered with forests or carpeted with verdure, and rendered grander in appearance by the aspect ofthe snowy peaks seen at the upper end of it.

On the left of the way to Palgam is an old Hindu ruin, of the usual shape, commanding a prospect of the greatest beauty and snugness ; and behind it is a bed of gray marble, in which I found some copper ore. Palgam, or the shepherds' village, is composed of log houses, romantically situated at the head of the valley, where two defiles meet. That on the left leads to the Duras pass, joining and following, I be lieve, the course of the Sind river. It was always a favourite haunt ofthe Gulubans, or robbers, as already mentioned, who made use of this wild mountain-defile to escape from the pursuit of justice. A stream descends from it to Palgam, and there joins the Lidur, which comes rattling down the larger valley on the right, at the end of which are seen the snowy moun tains on the way to Umur Nath.

I remember trying hard to get near enough to three fine eagles that were sitting on the green slope above Palgam ; but they rose, and circled away amongst the mountains, utterly regardless of the small shot from my double barrel. The ceremony at the cave of Umur Nath* takes * Umur signifies the immortal, and Nath is a Sanscrit word applied to the principal Hindu divinities, as lords and masters, clyefly to Vishnu or Krishna, and occasionally to Siva, and also to the place where they are worshipped and supposed more particularly to reside. The name prefixed is sometimes that of the place, some times that of the builder of the shrine. There are innumerable Naths in India, and those that are known in one place are not known in an- NATIVE LEGEND. place on the loth ofthe Hindu month Sawun (28th of July).

Previously to that day not only the Hindus of Kashmir, but those from Hindustan, of every rank and caste, may be seen collecting together, and travelling up the valley ofthe Lidur towards this celebrated cave, — which, from his description, must have been the place that Bernier intended to visit, but was prevented. The account of Umur Nath, as written for me by a learned native of Kashmir, is as follows : The Angel of Death appeared to the divinities, and told them that he would destroy them. They were much troubled at this threat, and proceeded to the place of abode of SoamiShurji — that is, of the Lord Siva — and entreated his protection. Siva appeared to them with a bright and pleasant countenance, and showing them great favour, and inquired into their state and circumstances with much anxiety.

The divinities represented that the angel of death was at enmity with them, and that they dreaded his power. Upon which Siva, of his great mercy and kindness, bestowed upon them the water of immortality, by which they were freed from the persecution of the angel of death. Siva afterwards again went lo his devotional abstractions at his abode, and was again sought for by the divinities, but they could not see him. They were therefore in great distress, and lifted up their hands in prayer, and entreated him to show himself to them ; whence the pilgrimage and the prayer at Umur Nath. The former, it is added, is called Linga-Kar. other : Kashi Nath is the old name of Benares ; Jaganath is Krishna as the lord of the universe ; and Somnath is, I suppose, that of Soma the moon — a male Deity in the Hindu catalogue.

THE BLUE WATER. After performing their ablutions and prostrations at Gunysh Bui, the pilgrims proceed to Palgam, and thence follow up the defile on the right ; the snowy peaks on the further side of the lake of the Shisha Nag* appearing in the distance. The only dwelling to be found on the way beyond Palgam is about three miles thence, up the defile. I slept here. Afterwards the path, though worn by the pilgrimages of ages, is rocky and fatiguing. The people first stop and perform their ablutions at a part of the stream about a mile above Palgam. At Nil Gunga, or the blue water, they again halt to wash and make their vows and their offerings to the stream, and again in the Umur Veyut,+ about sixty yards, as I was informed, below the cave itself. A second and steep ascent begins from Chundan Wareh;J after which the pilgrims find themselves in a long open valley formed between the mountain peaks, rising to 'a. thousand feet above it on each side ; the valley itself being elevated above the limit of forest, and divided lengthwise by the deep and rocky cliff through which flows that branch ofthe river that runs from the Shisha Nag.