Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan ... Illustrated by numerous engravings

Front matter

INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN CENTRAL AMERICA, CHIAPAS, AND YUCATAN. BY JOHN L. STEPHENS, AUTHOR OF " INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN EGYPT, ARABIA PETRÆA, AND THE HOLY LAND," ETC. ILLUSTRATED BY NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: JOHN MUERAV, ALBERMARLE STREET M D C C C X L I. ENGRAVINGS OF VOLUME I. v St.* Map. Pago Stone Statue, front View Frontispiece. "Wall of Copan 9G Pianos Copan 133 Death's Head 135 Portrait 136 * Stone Idol 138 Portrait 139 Stone Idol HO Tablet of Hieroglyphics I41 No. 1, Sides of Altar I42 No. 2, Sides of Altar M* Gigantic Head I43 No. 1, Stone Idol, front View I49 No. 2, Stone Idol, back View 150 Idol half buried 151 No. 1, Idol 152 No. 2, Idol 152 No. 1, Idol 153 No. 2, Idol 153 Idol and Altar 154 Fallen Idol 155 No. 1, Idol, front View 156 No. 2, Idol, back View 156 No. 3, Idol, side View , 156 Fallen Idol 157 Circular Altar 157 No. 1, Stone Idol, front View 153 No. 2, Stone Idol, back View 158 No. 3, Stone Idol, side View 158 Great Square of Antigua Guatimala 266 Profile of Nicaragua Canal

Preface

. The author is indebted to Mr. Van Buren, late Pres ident of the United States, for the opportunity of presenting to the public the folloAviug pages. He considers it proper to say, that his diplomatic appointment Avas for a specific purpose, not requiring a residence at the cap ital, and the object of his mission being fulfilled or fail ing, he was at liberty to travel. At the time of his arrival in Central America, that country was distracted by a sanguinary civil war, which resulted, during his sojourn there, in the entire prostration of the Federal Government. By the protection and facilities afforded by his official character, he was enabled to accomplish what otherwise Avould have been impossible. His work embraces a journey of nearly three thousand miles in the interior of Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan, including visits to eight ruined cities, Avith full illustra tions from drawings taken on the spot by Mr. Cather wood.

Its publication has been delayed on account of the engravings ; but on one consideration the author does not regret the delay. Late intelligence from Central America enables him to express the belief that the state of anarchy in Avhich he has represented that beautiful

PREFACE.

. country no longer exists ; the dark clouds Avhich hung over it have passed away, civil war has ceased, and Central America may be welcomed back among re publics. New-York, May, 1841. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I

Departure. — The Voyage. — Arrival at Balize. — Mixing of Colours. — Government House. — Colonel M'Donald. — Origin of Balize. — Negro Schools. — Scene in a Court-room. — Law without Lawyers. — The Barracks. — Excursion in a Pit-pan. — A Beginning of Honours. — Honours accumulating. — Departure from Balize. — Sweets of Office . . . Page 9

Chapter II

Every one for himself. — Travellers' Tricks. — Puenta Gorda. — A Visit to the Carib Indians. — A Carib Crone. — A Baptism. — Rio Dolce. — Beautiful Scenery. — Yzabal. — Reception of the Padre. — A Barber in Office. — A Band of " Invisibles. " — Parties in Central America. — A Compatriot. — A Grave in a Foreign Land. — Preparations for the Passage of " the Mountain." — A Road not Macadamized. — Perils by the Way. — A well-spiced Lunch. — The Mountain passed 25

Chapter III

A Canonigo. — How to roast a Fowl. — Extempore Shoemaking. — Motagua River. — Beautiful Scene. — Crossing the River. — The Luxury of Water. — Primitive Costumes. — How to make Tortillas. — Costly Timber. — Gualan. — Oppressive Heat. — Shock of an Earthquake. — A stroll through the Town.— -A troublesome Muleteer. — A Lawsuit. — Important Negotiations. — A Modern Bona Dea. — How to gain a Husband. — A Kingdom of Flora.— Zacapa.— Making free with a Host 51

Chapter IV

Purchasing a Bridle. — A School and its Regulations. — Conversation with an Indian.— Spanish Translation of the " Spy."— Chiquimula.— A Church in Ruins. — A Veteran of the French Empire. — St. Stephanos. — A Land of Mountains. — An Affair with a Muleteer.— A deserted Village.— A rude Assault.— Arrest. — Imprisonment. — Release . . t70

Chapter V

An Indian Funeral— Copan River. — Woman's Kindness. — Hacienda of San Antonio.— Strange Customs.— A Mountain of Aloes.— The State of Honduras. —Village of Copan.— An ungracious Host. — Wall of Copan.— History of Co- P»n.— First View of the Ruins.— Vain Speculations.— Applications for Medicine.— Search for an Abode.— A Sick AVoman.— Plagues of a Muleteer. — An unpleasant Situation. — A Thunder Storm.— Thoughts of buying Copan . VI CONTENTS.

Chapter VI

How to begin. — Commencement of Explorations. — Interest created by these- Ruins.— Visit from the Alcalde. — Vexatious Suspicions.— A welcome Visiter. —Letter from General Cascara.— Buying a City.— Visit from Don Gregorio's Family.— Distribution of Medicines Page 117

Chapter VII

Survey of the Ruins. — Account of them by Huarros and by Colonel Galindo. —Their Situation.— Their Extent.— Plan of Survey.— Pyramidal Structures.— Rows of Death's Heads.— Remarkable Portrait.—" Idols."— Character of the Engravings. — Ranges of Terraces. — A Portrait. — Courtyards. — Curious Altar. — Tablets of Hieroglyphics.— Gigantic Head.— Stone Quarries.— More Applicants for Medicine. — " Idols" and Altars. — Buried Image. — Material of the Statues. — Idols originally painted. — Circular Altar. — Antiquity of Copan . 130

Chapter VIII

Separation. — An Adventure. — Copan River.— Don Clementine — A Wedding. — A Supper.— A Wedding Ball.— Buying a Mule. — The Sierra. — View from the Top.— Esquipulas. — The Cura. — Hospitable Reception.— Church of Esquipulas. — Responsibility of the Cura. — Mountain of Quezaltapeque. — A narrow Escape. — San Jacinto. — Reception by the Padre. — A Village Fe'te. — An Ambuscade. — Motagua River. — Village of San Rosalie. — A Death Scene . . 161

Chapter IX

Chimalapa.— The Cabildo. — A Scene of Revelry.— Gustatoya.— A Hunt for Robbers. — Approach to Guatimala. — Beautiful Scenery. — Volcanoes of Agua and Fuego.— First View of the City.— Entry into the City. — First Impressions. — The Diplomatic Residence. — Parties in Central America. — Murder of Vice-president Flores. — Political State of Guatimala. — An embarrassing Situation. — The Constituent Assembly.— Military Police 183

Chapter X

Hacienda of Narengo. — Lazoing. — Diplomatic Correspondence. — Formulas. — Fe'te of La Concepcion. — Taking the Black Veil. — A Countrywoman. — Renouncing the World. — Fireworks, &c. — Procession in honour of the Virgin.— Another Exhibition of Fireworks.— A fiery Bull.— Insolent Soldiery . . 206

CHAPTER XL

The Provesor.— News of the Day, how published in Guatimala.— Visit to the Convent of La Concepcion. — The Farewell of the Nun. — Carrera. — Sketch of his Life. — The Cholera.— Insurrections. — Carrera heads the Insurgents.— His Appearance in Guatimala. — Capture of the City. — Carrera Triumphant. — Arrival of Morazan.— Hostilities.— Pursuit of Carrera.— His Defeat.— He is again uppermost.— Interview with Carrera.— His Character . . .221 CONTENTS. VII

Chapter XII

Party to Mixco. — A Scene of Pleasure.— Procession in Honour of the Patron Saint of Mixco. — Fireworks.— A Bombardment. — Smoking Segars. — A Night-brawl.— -Suffering and Sorrow. — A Cockfight. — A Walk in the Suburbs. — Sunday Amusements.— Return to the City Page 251

Chapter XIII

Excursion to La Antigua and the Pacific Ocean.— San Pablo.— Mountain Scenery. — El Rio Pensativo. — La Antigua. — Account of its Destruction. — An Octogenarian. — The Cathedral. — San Juan Obispo. — Santa Maria. — Volcano de Agua.— Ascent of the Mountain. — The Crater. — A lofty Meeting-place. — The Descent. — Return to La Antigua. — Cultivation of Cochineal. — Classic Ground. — Ciudad Vieja. — Its Foundation. — Visit from Indians. — Departure from Ciudad Vieja. — First Sight of the Pacific. — Alotenango. — Volcan del Fuega. — Escuintla.— Sunset Scene. — Masagua.— Port of Istapa.— Arrival at the Pacific . 264

Chapter XIV

The Return. — Hunt for a Mule. — Overo. — Masagua. — Escuintla. — Falls of Sr.n Pedro Martyr. — Michetoya River. — Village of San Pedro. — A Major-domo. — San Cristoval. — Amatitan. — A roving American. — Entry into Guatimala. — Letter from Mr. Catherwood. — Christmas Eve. — Arrival of Mr. Catherwood.— Plaza de Toros.— A Bullfight— The Theatre.— Official Business.— The Aristocracy of Guatimala.— State of the Country.— Newyear's Day.— Ferocity of Party .... 290

Chapter XV

Hunt for a Government. — Diplomatic Difficulties. — Departure from Guatimala. — Lake of Amatitan. — Attack of Fever and Ague. — Overo. — Istapa. — A French Merchant Ship. — Port of Acajutla. — Illness. — Zonzonate. — The Government found.— Visit to the Volcano of Izalco.— Course of the Eruptions.— Descent from the Volcano . 310

Chapter XVI

Sickness and Mutiny. — Illness of Captain Jay. — Critical Situation. — Rough Nursing. — A Countryman in Trouble.— Dolphins. — Succession of Volcanoes. — Gulf of Nicoya. — Harbour of Caldera. — Another Countryman. — Another Patient. — Hacienda of San Felippe. — Mountain of Aguacate. — "Zillenthal Patent Self-acting Cold Amalgamation Machine."— Gold Mines. — View from the Mountain Top 331

Chapter XVII

La Garita.— Alihuela.— A friendly People.— Heredia. — Rio Segondo. — Coffee-plan'ations of San Jose. — The Sacrament for the Dying. — A happy Meeting.— Travelling Embarrassments.— Quarters in a Convent.— Seiior Carillo, Chief of CONTENTS. State. — Vicissitudes of Fortune. — Visit to Cartago. — Tres Rios.— An unexpected Meeting. — Ascent of the Volcano of Cartago. — The Crater. — View of the two Seas.— Descent.— Stroll through Cartago.— A Burial.— Another at tack of Fever and Ague. — A Vagabond.— Cultivation of Coffee . Page 349

Chapter XVIII

Departure for Guatimala.— Esparza.— Town of Costa Rica.— The Barranca. — History of a Countryman. — Wild Scenery. — Hacienda of Aranjuez. — River Lagartos. — Cerros of Collito. — Herds of Deer. — Santa Rosa. — Don Juan Jose Bonilla. — An Earthquake. — A Cattle Farm. — Bagases. — Guanacaste. — An agreeable Welcome.— Belle of Guanacaste.— Pleasant Lodgings.— Cordilleras. —Volcanoes of Rincon and Orosi.— Hacienda of San Teresa.— Sunset View. — The Pacific again 374

Chapter XIX

The Flores.— The San Juan.— Nature's Solitude.— Primitive Cookery.— Harbour of San Juan.— Route of the Great Canal to connect the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans.— Nicaragua.— Survey for the Canal.— Lake of Nicaragua.— Plan of the Canal. — Lockage.— Estimate of Cost. — Former Efforts to construct the Canal.— Its Advantages.— Central American Hospitality.— Tierra Caliente. — , Horrors of Civil War . . . . . IH CENTRAC AMERICA, CHIAPAS, AND YUCATAN.

Chapter I

Departure— The Voyage.— Arrival at Balize. — Mixing of Colours. — Government House. -Culonel M'Donald — Origin of Balize. — Negro Schools.— Scene in a Court-room —Law without Lawyers. — The Barracks. — Excursion in a Pit-pan — A Beginning of Honours. — Honours accumulating. — Departure from Balize —Sweets of Office. Being intrusted by the President with a Special Confidential Mission to Central America, on Wednes day, the third of October, 1839, I embarked on board the British brig Mary Ann, Hampton, master, for the Bay of Honduras. The brig was lying in the North River, Avith her anchor apeak and sails loose, and in a few minutes, in company with a large whaling-ship bound for the Pacific, we were under way. It Avas before seven o'clock in the morning : the streets and Avharves were still ; the Battery was desolate ; and, at the moment of leaving it on a voyage of uncertain du ration, seemed more beautiful than I had ever known it before.

Opposite the Quarantine Ground, a few friends who had accompanied me on board left me ; in an hour the pilot folloAved ; at dusk the dark outline of the high lands of Neversink was barely visible, and the next morning we Avere fairly at sea. My only fellow-passenger Avas Mr. Cathenvood, an Vol. I.— B experienced traveller and personal friend, who had passed more than ten years of his life in diligently studying the antiquities of the Old World ; and whom, as one familiar with the remains of ancient architectural greatness, I engaged, immediately on receiving my appointment, to accompany me in exploring the ruins of Central America. Hurried on by a strong northeaster, on the ninth we Avere within the region of the trade-winds, on the tenth within the tropics, and on the eleventh, with the thermometer at 80", but a refreshing breeze, we were moving gently between Cuba and 'St. Domin go, Avith both in full sight.

For the rest, after eigh teen days of boisterous weather, drenched with tropical rains, on the twenty-ninth we were driven inside the Lighthouse reef, and, avoiding altogether the reg ular pilot-ground, at midnight reached St. George's Bay, about twenty miles from Balize. A large brig, loaded with mahogany, was lying at anchorj -vvith a pilot on board, Avaiting for favourable weather to put to sea. The pilot had Avith him his son, a lad about sixteen, cradled on the water, whom Captain Hampton kneAv, and determined to take on board. It was full moonlight when the boy mounted the deck and gave us the pilot's welcome. I could not distinguish his features, but I could see that he was not white ; and his voice was as soft as a woman's. He took his place at the wheel, and, loading the brig with canvass, told us of the severe gales on the coast, of the fears entertained for our safety, of disasters and shipwrecks, and of a pilot who, on a night which we well remembered, had driven his vessel over a. sunken reef.

At seven o'clock the next morning we saw Balize, BALIZE. appearing, if there be no sin in comparing it with cities consecrated by time and venerable associations, like Venice and Alexandrea, to rise out of the water. A range of white houses extended a mile along the shore, terminated at one end by the Government House, and at the other by the barracks, and intersected by the IN. river Balize, the bridge across which formed a picturesque object ; while the fort on a little island at the mouth of the river, the spire of a Gothic church behind the Government House, and groves of cocoanut-trees, which at that distance reminded us of the palm-trees of Egypt, gave it an appearance of actual beauty. Four ships, three brigs, sundry schooners, bungoes, canoes, and a steamboat, were riding at anchor in the harbour ; alongside the vessels were rafts of mahogany ; far out, a negro was paddling a log of the same costly timber ; and the government dory which boarded us when we came to anchor was made of the trunk of a mahogany tree.

We landed in front of the warehouse of Mr. Coffin, the consignee of the vessel. There was no hotel in the place, but Mr. Coffin undertook to conduct us to a lady who, he thought, could accommodate us with lodgings. The heavy rain from which we had suffered at sea had reached Balize. The streets were flooded, and in places there were large puddles, which it was difficult to cross. At the extreme end of the principal street we met the " lady" Miss , a mulatto woman, who could only give us board. Mr. Coffin kindly offered the use of an unoccupied house on the other side of the river to sleep in, and we returned. By this time I had twice passed the whole length of the principal street, and the town seemed in the entire possession of blacks. The bridge, the market-place, the streets and stores Avere thronged with them, and I might have fancied myself in the capital of a negro re public.

They were a fine-looking race, tall, straight, and athletic, with skins black, smooth, and glossy as velvet, and well dressed, the men in white cotton shirts and trousers, Avith straw hats, and the women in Avhite frocks Avith short sleeves and broad red borders, and adorned Avith large red earrings and necklaces ; and I could not help remarking that the frock was their only article of dress, and that it was the fashion of these sable ladies to drop this considerably from off the right shoulder, and to carry the skirt in the left hand, and raise it to any height necessary for crossing puddles. On my way back I stopped at the house of a merchant, whom I found at what is called a second break fast. The gentleman sat on one side of the table and his lady on the other. At the head was a British officer,tand opposite him a mulatto ; on his left was an other officer, and opposite him also a mulatto.

By chance a place was made for me between the two coloured gentlemen. Some of my countrymen, perhaps, would have hesitated about taking it, but I did not ; both were well dressed, well educated, and polite. They talked of their mahogany works, of England, hunting, horses, ladies, and wine ; and before I had been an hour in Balize I learned that the great work of practical amalgamation, the subject of so much an gry controversy at home, had been going on quietly for generations ; that colour was considered mere mat ter of taste ; and that some of the most respectable in habitants had black wives and mongrel children, whom they educated with as much care, and made money for with as much zeal, as if their skins were perfectly white. A SAMPLE OF THE PICTURESQUE. I hardly knew whether to be shocked or amused at this condition of society ; and, in the mean time, joined Mr. Cathenvood, to visit the house offered by Mr. Cof fin.

It was situated on the opposite side of the river, and the road to it was ankle deep in mud. At the gate was a large puddle, which we cleared by a jump ; the house was»built on piles about two feet high, and underneath was Avater nearly a foot deep. We as cended on a plank to the sill of the door, and entered a large room occupying the whole of the first floor, and perfectly empty. The upper story Avas tenanted by a family of negroes ; in the yard was a house SAvarming Avith negroes ; and all over, in the yard and in front, were picturesque groups of little negroes of both sex.es, and naked as they were born. We directed the room to be swept and our luggage brought there ; and, as we left the house, we remembered Captain Hampton's description before our arrival, and felt the point of his concluding remark, that Balize was the last place made.

We returned ; and, while longing for the comfort of a good hotel, received through Mr. Goffj the consul of the United States, an invitation from his excellency, Colonel M'Donald, to the Government House, and in formatfon that he would send the government dory to the' brig for our luggage. As this Avas the first appointment I had ever held from government, and I was not sure of ever holding another, I determined to make the most of it, and accepted at once his excellency's invitation. There was a steamboat for Yzabal, the port of Guati mala, lying at Balize ; and, on my way to the Gov ernment House, I called upon Seiior Comyano, the agent, who told me that she was to go up the next day ; but added, with great courtesy, that, if I wished it, he would detain her a few days for my convenience.

Used to submitting to the despotic regulations of steam boat agents at home, this seemed a higher honour than the invitation of his excellency ; but, not wishing to push my fortune too far, I asked a delay of one day only, f The Government House stands in a handsome situ ation at the extreme end of the town, with a lawn ex tending to the water, and ornamented with cocoanut trees. Colonel M'Donald, a veteran six feet high, and one of the most military-looking men I ever saw, received me at the gate. In an hour the dory arrived with our luggage, and at five o'clock we sat doAvn to dinner. We had at table Mr. Newport, chaplain, and for fifteen years parish clergyman at Balize ; Mr. Walk er, secretary of the government, and holding, besides, such a list of offices as would make the greatest plu ralist among us feel insignificant ; and several other gentlemen of Balize, office-holders, civil and military, in whose agreeable society Ave sat till eleven o'clock.

The next day we had to make preparations for our journey into the interior, besides which we had an opportunity of seeing a little of Balize. The Hon duras Almanac, which assumes to be the chronicler of this settlement, throws a romance around its early history by ascribing its origin to a Scotch bucanier named Wallace. The fame of the wealth of the New World, and the return of the Spanish galleons laden with the riches of Mexico and Peru, brought upon the coast of America hordes of adventurers — to call them by no harsher name — from England and France, of whom Wallace, one of the most noted and daring, found refuge and security behind the keys and reefs ORIGIN OF BALIZE. which protect the harbour of Balize. The place where he built his log huts and fortalice is still pointed out ; but their site is now occupied by warehouses.

Strength ened by a close alliance with the Indians of the Mos cheto shore, and by the adhesion of numerous British adventurers, who descended upon the coast of Honduras for the purpose of cutting mahogany, he set the Span iards at defiance. Ever since, the territory of Balize has been the subject of negotiation and contest, and to this day the people of Central America claim it as their own. It has grown by the exportation of mahogany ; but, as the trees in the neighbourhood have been almost all cut down, and Central America is so impoverished by wars that it offers but a poor market for British goods, the place is languishing, and will probably con tinue to dwindle aAvay until the enterprise of her mer chants discovers other channels of trade. At this day it contains a population of six thousand, of which four thousand are blacks, who are employed by the merchants in gangs as mahogany cutters.

Their condition was always better than that of plantation slaves ; even before the act for the general abolition of slavery throughout the British dominions, they were actually free ; and, on the thirty-first of August, 1839, a year before the time appointed by the act, by a general meeting and agreement of proprietors, even the nominal yoke of bondage Avas removed. The event was celebrated, says the Honduras Alma nac, by religious ceremonies, processions, bands of music, and banners Avith devices : " The sons of Ham respect the memory of Wilberforce ;" " The Queen, God bless her;" "M'Donald forever;" "Civil and religious liberty all over the world." Nelson Schaw, " a snoAvdrop of the first water," continues the Almanac, " advanced to his excellency, Colonel M'Donald, and spoke as follows : ' On the part of my emancipa ted brothers and sisters, I venture to approach your ex cellency, to entreat you to thank our most gracious Queen for all that she has done for us.

We will pray for her ; we will fight for her ; and, if it is necessary, we will die for her. We thank your excellency for all you have done for us. God bless your excellency ! God bless her excellency, Mrs. M'Donald, and all the royal family ! Come, my countymen, hurrah ! Dance, ye black rascals ; the flag of England flies over your heads, and every rustle of its folds knocks the fetters off the limbs of the poor slave. Hubbabboo Cochalo rum Gee !' " The negro schools stand in the rear of the Govern ment House, and the boys' department consisted of about tAvo hundred, from three to fifteen years of age, and of every degree of tinge, from nearly white down to tAvo little native Africans bearing on their cheeks the scars of cuts made by their parents at home. These last were taken from on board a slave-ship captured by an English cruiser, brought into Balize, and, as provi ded for by the laws, on a drawing by lot, fell to the share of a citizen, who, entering into certain covenants for good treatment, is entitled to their services until they are twenty-one years old.

Unfortunately, the master was not present, and I had no opportunity of learning the result of his experience in teaching ; but in this school, I was told, the brightest boys, and those who had improved most, were those who had in them the most white blood. The mistress of the female department had had great experience in teaching ; and she told us that, though she had had many clever black girls under her charge, SCENE IN A COURTROOM. 17 her white scholars were always the most quick and capable. From the negro school we Avent to the Grand Court. It had been open about half an hour Avhen I entered. On the back wall, in a massive mahogany tablet, were the arms of England ; on a high platform beneath was a large circular table, around which Avere heavy ma hogany chairs with high backs and cushions.

The court consists of seven judges, five of Avhom Avere in their places. One of them, Mr. Walker, invited me to one of the vacant seats. I objected, on the ground that my costume was not becoming so dignified a position ; he insisted, and I took my seat, in a roundabout jacket, upon a chair exceedingly comfortable for the administration of justice. As before remarked, five of the judges Avere in their places ; one of them was a mulatto. The jury was empannelled, and two of the jurors Avere mulattoes ; one of them, as the judge who sat next me said, was a Sambo, or of the descending line, being the son of a mulatto woman and a black man. I was at a loss to determine the caste of a third, and inquired of the judge, who answered that he was his, the judge's, brother, and that his mother was a mulatto woman.

The judge was aware of the feeling existing in the United States with regard to colour, and said that in Balize there was, in political life, no distinction Avhat ever, except on the ground of qualifications and char acter ; and hardly any in social life, even in contract ing marriages. I had noticed the judges and jurors, but I missed an important part of an English court. Where Avere the gentlemen of the bar ? Some of my readers Avill per haps concur with Captain Hampton, that Balize Avas Vol. I.— C r the last place made, Avhen I tell them that there was not a single laAvyer in the place, and never had been ; but, lest some of my enterprising professional brethren should forthwith be tempted to pack their trunks for a descent upon the exempt city, I consider it my duty to add that I do not believe there is the least chance for one.

As there is no bar to prepare men for the bench, the judges, of course, are not laAvyers. Of the five then sitting, two were merchants, one a mahogany cutter, and the mulatto, second to none of the others in character or qualifications, a doctor. This court is the highest tribunal for the trial of civil causes, and has jurisdiction of all amounts above £15. Balize is a place of large commercial transactions ; contracts are daily made and broken, or misunderstood, which require the intervention of some proper tribunal to interpret and compel their fulfilment. And there was no absence of litigation ; the calendar was large, and the courtroom croAvded. The first cause called was upon an account, when the defendant did not appear, and a verdict Avas taken by default. In the next, the plain tiff stated his case, and swore to it ; the defendant an swered, called Avitnesses, and the cause was submitted to the jury.

There Avas no case of particular interest. In one the parties became excited, and the defendant interrupted the plaintiff repeatedly, on which the latter, putting his hand upon the shoulder of his antagonist, said, in a coaxing way, " Now don't, George ; wait n little, you shall have your turn. Don't interrupt me, and I won't you." All was done in a familiar and colloquial way ; the parties were more or less known to each other, and judges and jurors were greatly in fluenced by knowledge of general character. I re- A RIDE TO THE BARRACKS. 19 marked that regularly the merits of the case were so clearly brought out, that, when it was committed to the jury, there was no question about the verdict ; and so satisfactory has this system proved, that, though an appeal lies to the Queen in Council, as Mr. Evans, the foreman, told me, but one cause has been carried up in twenty-tAvo years.

Still it stands as an anomaly in the history of English jurisprudence ; for, I believe, in every other place where the principles of the common law govern, the learning of the bench and the ingenui ty of the bar are considered necessary to elicit the truth. At, daylight the next morning I was roused by Mr. Walker for a ride to the barracks. Immediately be yond the suburbs we entered upon an uncultivated country, low and flat, but very rich. We passed a racecourse, now disused and grown over. This is the only road opened, and there are no wheel-carriages in Balize. Between it and the inhabited part of Central America is a wilderness, unbroken even by an Indian path. There is no communication Avith the interior except by the Golfo Dolce or the Balize River ; and, from the Avant of roads, a residence there is more con fining than living on an island.