Incidents of Travel in Yucatan, etc

Chapter I

Departure from Nohcacab. — Outfit. — Rancho os Chack.— Fright of the Women. — Rancho of Schawill.— Casa Real. — Scarcity of Water. — Visit from the Alcalde. — Primitive Mode of obtaining Water. — A peculiar People. — Ruins of Zayi. — Great tree-covered Mound. — The Casa Grande. — Fortunate Discovery. — Staircase. — Doorways, &c. — Buildings on the second Terrace. — Doorways. — Curiously ornamented Columns.— Building on the third Terrace. — Doorways, Apartments, &c. — Stone Lintels. — Facade of the second Range of Buildings. — Ground Plan of the three Ranges. — The Casa Cerrada. — Doorways filled up inside with Stone and Mortar. — Finished Apartments, also filled up. — This filling up simultaneous with the Erection of the Building. — A Mound. — Ruined Building. — Its Interior. — Sculptured Head, &c. — A strange Structure. — An Archway.— Perpendicular Wall. — Stuccoed Figures and Ornaments. — Great Terrace and Building. — Apartments, &c- — Want of Interest manifested by the Indians in regard to these Ruins . . . Page 9

Chapter II

Visit to a ruined Building near Chack. — A Field of Taje.— Description of the Building. — Hornet's Nest. — Young Vulture. — Picturesque View from the Terrace. — Well of Chack. — Exploration of its Passages. — Return to the Rancho. — Departure from Schawill. — The Camino Real.— Rancho of Sennacte. — Wild Appearance of the Indians. — Continued Scarcity of Water. — Another ruined City. — Two ruined Buildings. — Apartments, Columns, &c. — High Wall. — Journey continued. — Rancho of Sabachshe. CONTENTS. IV —Casa Real.— Well.— Hut of the Alcalde.— The Senora.— Ruins of Sabachshe.— Picturesque Edifice.— Alacrity of the Indians.— Facade.— Pilasters, Cornices, &c— Encounter with an Iguana.— Another Ruined Building. — The Agave Americana. — More Ruins.— The Red Hand.— The Red Hand used as a Symbol by the North American Indians.— Conclusions to be deduced from this Circumstance.— Delicate Manner of doing a Service Page 29

Chapter III

Ruins of Labna. — Accounts of the Indians not to be relied on. — Irretrievable Ruin. — Extraordinary Structure. — Doorways. — Chambers. — Gigantic Wall, covered with Designs in Stucco. — Death's Heads. — Human Figures in Alto Relievo. — Colossal Figure seated. — Large Ball and Figures. — Dilapidated State of this Structure. — An arched Gateway. — Other Buildings. — Richly ornamented Doorway. — Courtyard. — Ornaments in Stucco. — Large Building. — Magnificent Edifice. — Facade ornamented with sculptured Stone. — Circular Hole leading to a subterranean Chamber. — The Ramon Tree. — A Cave. — Conversation with the Indians. — A Ride to the Hacienda of Tabi. — Sculptured Ornament. — Other Figures. — Visit to a Cave. — Tree-encumbered Path. — A Vaquero. — Descent into the Cave. — Fanciful Scene. — Return to the Rancho. — A Warm Bath . 49

Chapter IV

Search for Ruined Cities continued. — Journey to the Rancho of Kewick. — Ruined Building. — Lose the Road. — Set right by an Indian. — Arrival at Kewick. — The Casa Real. — Visit from the Proprietor of the Rancho, a full-blooded Indian. — His Character. — Visit to the Ruins. — Garrapatas. — Old Walls. — Fajades. — Imposing Scene of Ruins. — Principal Doorway. — Apartments. — Curious Painting. — Excavating a Stone. — A long Building. — Other Ruins. — Continued Scarcity of Water. — Visit to a Cave, called by the Indians Actum. — A wild Scene. — An Aguada. — Return to the Casa Real. — A Crisis in Money Matters. — Journey to Xul.— Entry into the Village. — The Convent. — Reception. — The Cura of Xul. — His Character. — Mingling of Old Things with New. — The Church. — A Levee.— A Welcome Arrival CONTENTS. V

Chapter V

Journey to the Rancho of Nohcacab. — A Fountain and Seybo Tree. — Arrival at the Rancho. — Its Appearance. — A sick Trio. — Effects of a good Breakfast. — Visit to the Ruins. — Terrace and Buildings. — Three other Buildings. — Character of these Ruins. — Disappointment. — Return to Xul. — Visit to another ruined City. — Ruined Building. — An Arch, plastered and covered with Painted Figures. — Other Paintings. — Subterranean Well. — Return to the Village. — Journey to Ticul. — Large Mounds. — Passage of the Sierra. — Grand View. — Arrival at Ticul. — A Village Festival. — Ball of the Mestizas. — Costumes. — Dance of the Toros. — Lassoing Cattle. — Ball by Daylight. — The Fiscales. — Ludicrous Scene. — A Dance. — Love in a Phrensy. — A unique Breakfast. — Close of the Ball Page 86

Chapter VI

Bull-fights. — Horse-race. — Bull-fighters. — Their villanous Appearance. — Death of a Bull. — A Ball of Etiquette. — Society in Yucatan. — Costumes at the Ball. — More Bull-fights. — A Mestiza. — Scenes in the Bull-ring. — A Storm. — Dispersion of the Spectators. — A Discovery. — A new Reformation in Yucatan. — Celibacy of Priests. — A few Words about the Padres. — Arrival of Mr. Catherwood and Dr. Cabot. — Rain. — Daguerreotyping. — "The Ancient Chronology of Yucatan." — Don Pio Perez. — Calendar of the Ancient Indians. — Substantially the same with that of the Mexicans. — This Fact tends to show the common Origin of the aboriginal Inhabitants of Yucatan and Mexico . . . 109

Chapter VII

Return to Nohcacab. — Final Departure from this Village. — An Indian Sexton. — Route. — " Old Walls." — Ruins of Sacbey. — Paved Road. — Journey continued. — Ruins of Xampon. — Imposing Edifice. — " Old Walls," called by Indians Xlapphak. — Ruins of Hiokowitz and Kuepak. — Zekilna. — Altar for burning Copal. — Ancient Terrace. — Lofty stone Structure. — Remains of a Building. — Sculptured Stones. — Platform. — Rancho of Chunhuhu. — Become involuntary Masters of a Hut. — Its interior Arrangements. — Scarcity of Water. — Pressing Wants. — Visit to the Ruins.— Two Buildings.— Facade.— Ornamented Doorways. VI CONTENTS. —Welcome Visiters.— Another Building.— Plastered Front.— A Building seen from the Terrace.— Visit to the Ruins of School hoke.—Large stone Structure.— Ranges of Buildings.—Circu lar Stone.— Ruined Edifice. — Representations of Human Fig ures, — Return to the Rancho. — Benefits of a Rain . Page 121

Chapter VIII

Journey to Bolonchen. — Bad Road. — Large Hacienda. — Imposing Gateway. — An inhospitable Host. — Ruins of Ytsimpte. — Ruined Edifice. — Staircase with sculptured Stones. — Square Building. — Facade decorated with Pillars. — Ruined Walls. — Remains of a sculptured Figure. — Character and Aspect of the Ruins. — Departure. — Arrival at the Village of Bolonchen. of Contentment. — Wells. — Derivation of the Word Bolonchen. — Origin of the Wells unknown. — The Cura. — Visit to an extraordinary Cave. — Entrance to it. — Precipitous Descents. — A wild Scene. — Rude Ladders. — Dangers of the Descent. — Indian Name of this Cave. — A subterranean Ball-room. — Cavernous Chamber. — Numerous Passages. — Great Number of Ladders. — Rocky Basin of Water. — Great Depth of the Cave. — A Bath in the Basin. — Its Indian Name. — Return to the Rocky Chamber. — Exploration of another Passage. — Another Basin. — Indian Stories. — Two other Passages and Basins. — Seven Basins in all. — Indian Names of the remaining five. — Want of Philosophical Instruments. — Surface of the Country. -"•This Cave the sole Watering-place of a large Indian Village. — Return. — Visit to the Cura. — Report of more Ruins . 137

Chapter IX

Departure from Bolonchen. — Lose the Road. — Sugar Rancho. — A new Section of Country. — Rancho o( Santa Rosa. — Annoyance from Fleas. — Visit to the Ruins of Labphak. — A lofty Structure. — Apartments, &c. — Staircases. — Doorways. — Interesting Discovery. — Courtyard. — Square Building on the second Terrace. — Ornaments in Stucco. — Oblong Building on the third Terrace. — Colossal Figures and Ornaments. — Centre Apartment. — Tokens of recent Occupation. — Ground Plan of the lower Range of Apartments. — Sculptured Bas-reliefs. — Builders adapted their Style to the Materials at Hand. — Abode at the CONTENTS. VII Ruins. — Wants. — Moonlight Scene. — Painting. — Circular Holes. — Range of Buildings. — Staircases. — Ornaments in Stucco. — Rain. — Love of the Marvellous . . . . Page 157

Chapter X

Departure from Labphak. — Sugar Ranchos. — Hacienda of Jalasac. — Cultivation of Sugar. — Another Rancho. — Its neat Appearance. — Senor Trego's Establishment. — A Well. — Seybo Trees. — Journey resumed. — Village of Iturbide. — Its Settlement and rapid Growth. — An Acquaintance. — Oppressive Attentions. — Lunar Rainbow. — Appearance of the Village. — Mound of Ruins. — Visit to the Ruins of Zibilnocac. — A Well. — A long Edifice. — Lazy Escort. — An anxious Host. —Return to the Village. — A prosperous Emigrant. — A Dinner. — Medical Practice. — Deplorable Condition of the Country in regard to Medical Aid. — Second Visit to the Ruins. — Front of an Edifice. — Square Structures. — Interesting Painting. — An ancient Well. — Mounds. — Vestiges of a great City 170

CHAPTER XL

End of Journey in this Direction. — Lake of Peten.— Probable Existence of Ruins in the Wilderness. — Islands in the Lake of Peten. — Peten Grande. — Mission of two Monks.— Great Idol of the Figure of a Horse. — Broken by the Monks, who in Consequence are obliged to leave the Island. — Second Mission of the Monks. — Sent away by the Indians.— Expedition of Don Martin Ursua. — Arrival at the Island.— Attacked by me Indians, who are defeated.— Don Martin takes Possession of Itza.— Temples and Idols of the Indians.— Destroyed by the Spaniards.— Flight of the Indians into the Wilderness.— Preparations.— Illness of Mr. Catherwood.— Effects of Gambling.— From the Church to the Gaming-table.— How People Live at Iturbide.— Departure. — Rancho of Noyaxche .-.■..... 191

Chapter XII

Journey resumed.— An Aguada.— The Aguadas artificial, and built by the Aboriginal Inhabitants. — Examination of one by Senor Trego.— Its Construction.— Ancient Wells.— Pits.— A Sugar CONTENTS. VIII Rancho.— Rancho of 'Y-a-Walthel.— Rancho of Choop.—Arri val at Macoba.— The Ruins.— Lodgings in a miserable Hut. — Wells.— Ruined Buildings.— Another Aguada.—Pits.—Aston ishment of the Indians.— Falling in Love at first Sight.—Inter esting Characters.— Departure.— Thick Undergrowth. — Rancho of Puut. — An Incident.— Situation of the Rancho. — Water. — Ruins of Mankeesh Page 208

Chapter XIII

Rancho of Jalal.— Picturesque Aguada.— Excavations made in it by the Indians. — System of Aguadas. — Journey resumed. — Lose the Road. — An Effort in the Maya Language. — Grove of Orange Trees. — Ruins of Yakatzib. — Dilapidated Edifice. — Stony Sierra. — Village of Becanchen. — Hospitality. — Sculptured Stones. — Wells. — Running Stream of Water. — Derivation of the Word Becanchen. — Rapid Growth of the Village. — Source of the Water of the Wells. — Accident to an Indian. — The Party separate. — Aguadas. — A Trogon. — Hacienda of Zaccacal. — Visit to the Ruins. — Stone Terrace. — Circular Hole. — Two Buildings. — Garrapatas. — Black Ants. — Return . . . 224

Chapter XIV

Village of San Jose.— Thatched Church.— The Cura.— A refractory Indian. — Attachment of the Indians. — Journey to Mani. — The Sierra.— Hacienda of Santa Maria. — A ruined Mound. — Good Road.— Arrival at the City of Tekax.— A bloodless Revolution. — Situation and Appearance of the City. — An interesting Meeting.— Curiosity of the People.— Akil.— The Site of a ruined City.— Sculptured Stones. — Journey resumed.— Arrival at Mani.— Historical Notice. — Tutul Xiu.— Embassy to the Lords of Zotuta.— Ambassadors murdered. — Mani the first interior Town that submitted to the Spaniards.— Scanty Supply of Water throughout the Country.— Important Consideration.— A touching Discovery 239

Chapter XV

Buying a Wardrobe.— Crowd of Loungers.— Visit to the Ruins. A long Edifice built by the Spaniards.— Interesting Well. Indian Legend.— The Mother of the Dwarf.— Exploration of the CONTENTS. IX Well. — Remains of large Mounds. — Cogolludo. — Ancient and curious Painting. — Books and ancient Characters of the Indians burned by the Spaniards. — Archives of Mani. — Important Doc uments. — Ancient Map. — Instrument endorsed on its Back. — Important Bearing of these Documents. — What was Uxmal ! — Argument. — No Vestiges of a Spanish Town at Uxmal. — Churches erected by the Spaniards in all their Settlements. — No Indications of a Church at Uxmal. — Conclusions. — Suspi cions of the People. — Church and Convent. — Extensive View from the Top of the Church Page 257

Chapter XVI

Departure from Mani. — Ornithology of Yucatan. — Discoveries of Doctor Cabot. — Village of Tixmeach. — Peto. — Church and Convent. — News from Home. — Don Pio Perez. — Indian Almanac. — A Fragment of Maya Manuscript. — Journey resumed. — Taihxiu. — Yaxcala. — Piste. — Arrival at Chichen. — First Sight of the Ruins. — The Hacienda. — A strange Reception. — Lodgings. — Situation of the Ruins. — Mr. Burke. — Magnificent Appearance of the Ruins. — Derivation of the Word Chichen. — Senotes. — Different from those before presented. — Mischievous Boys. — Failure of the Corn Crop 275

Chapter XVII

Plan of the Ruins. — An Edifice called Akatzeeb. — Doorways. — Apartments. — Circular Mass of Masonry. — Mysterious Chamber. — Sculptured Stone Tablet. — Majestic Pile of Building called the Monjas. — Hieroglyphics. — Rich Ornaments. — Doorways, Chambers, &c. — Remains of Painting. — The Eglesia, or Church. — Ornaments on the Facade. — Cartouches in Plaster. — Circular Edifice called the Caracol. — Apartment. — Staircase, having on each Side entwined Serpents. — Gigantic Head. — Doorways. — Paintings. — Building called Chichanchob. — Ornaments. — Row of Hieroglyphics. — Another Building. — Vestiges of Mounds and ruined Buildings. — Extraordinary Edifice, to which the Name Gymnasium or Tennis-court is given. — Ornamented Columns. — Sculptured Figures in Bas-relief.— Massive Stone Rings, with entwined Serpents.— Indian Sports.— Two Ranges of Buildings. — Procession of Tigers.— Sculptured Columns.— Figures in Bas- CONTENTS.

X relief.— Richly-carved Lintel. — Paintings. — The Castillo. — Staircase. — Colossal Serpents' Heads.— Doorways.— Carved Lintels.— Jambs ornamented with Sculptured Figures—Corri dors. — Apartments.— Square Pillars, covered with Sculptured Figures. — Rows of Columns. — Occupation and Abandonment of Chichen by the Spaniards.— First Discovery of Chichen.— Senotes Page 290

Chapter XVIII

Departure from Chichen.— Village of Cawa. — Cuncunul. — Arrival at Valladolid. — An Accident. — Appearance of the City. — Don Pedro Baranda's Cotton Factory. — A Countryman. — Mexican Revolution. — The Indians as Soldiers. — Adventures of a Demonio. — Character of the People.— Gamecocks. — Difficulty of obtaining Information in regard to the Route. — Departure for the Coast. — Party of Indians. — Village of Chemax. — Fate of Molas the Pirate. — Discouraging Accounts. — Plans deranged. — The Convent. — The Cura. — Population of the Village. — Its early History. — Ruins of Coba. — Indian Sepulchre. — Relics. — A Penknife found in the Sepulchre 325

Chapter XIX

Departure. — Journey to Yalahao. — Stony Road. — Arrival at the Port. — The Sea. — Appearance of the Village. — Bridge. — Springs. — Pirates. — Scarcity of Ramon. — The Castillo. — Its Garrison. — Don Vicente Albino. — An Incident. — Arrangements for a Voyage down the Coast. — Embarcation. — The Canoa El Sol. — Objects of the Voyage. — Point Moscheto. — Point Frances. — An Indian Fisherman. — Cape Catoche. — The first Landing-place of the Spaniards. — Island of Contoy. — Sea-birds. — Island of Mugeres.— Lafitte.— Harpooning a Turtle.— Different Kinds of Turtle.— Island ofKancune.— Point of Nesuc— Sharks. — Moschetops. — Bay of San Miguel. — Island of Cozumel. — Rancho established by the Pirate Molas.— Don Vicente Albino. —Mr. George Fisher.— Piratical Aspect of the Island.— A Well. —Plantation of Cotton.— Stroll along the Shore . . CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XX

A crippled Dog. — Island of Cozumel known to the Natives by the Name of Cuzamil. — Discovered by Juan De Grijalva. — Extracts from the Itinerary of his Voyage. — Towers seen by the Spaniards. — An ancient Indian Village. — Temples. — Idols prostrated by the Spaniards. — Present State of the Island. — Overgrown with Trees. — Terrace and Building. — Another Building. — These Buildings probably the Towers seen by the Spaniards. — Identical with those on the Mainland. — Ruins of a Spanish Church. — Its History unknown. — Vanity of Human Expectations. — Opinion of the old Spanish Writers. — Their Belief that the Cross was found among the Indians as a Symbol of Christian Worship. — The " Cozumel Cross" at Merida. — Platform in Front of the Church. — Square Pillars. — Once supported Crosses. — The Cozumel Cross one of them. — The Cross never recognised by the Indians as a Symbol of Worship. — Rare Birds. — A Sudden Storm. — The Canoa in a Strait. — Fearful Apprehensions Page 365

Chapter XXI

Search for the Canoa. — An Iron-bound Coast. — A wild Opening. — A sheltered Cove. — The Canoa found. — The Account of the Patron. — A Man overboard. — Return. — Sea-shells. — Departure from Cozumel. — Coast of Yucatan. — Square Buildings. — First Sight of the Castillo of Tuloom. — Rancho of Tancah. — Molas. — His two Sons. — Visit to the Ruins of Tuloom. — Buildings seen on the Way. — Magnificent Scenery. — The Castillo. — Front View. — Grand Staircase. — Columns. — Corridors. — The Red Hand. — The Wings of the Castillo, consisting of two Ranges. — Devices in Stucco. — Flat Roofs. — Back View of the Castillo. — A Storm. — Sudden Change of Feeling. — Ruined Buildings. — Square Terrace. — Picturesque Sight. — Fragments of Tablets. — Isolated Building. — Curious Figure. — Paintings. — Discovery of the City Wall. — Its good Preservation. — Gateways. — Watch-towers. — Buildings. — Ceilings constructed on a new Principle. — Onslaught of Moschetoes CONTENTS. XII

Chapter XXII

Discovery of a Building.— Two others.— Description of the first Building.— Ornaments in Stucco.— Columns.— Corridor.— Paintings.— Central Chamber.— Altar.— Upper Story.— Stone Tablets.— Another Building.— Mutilated Figure.— Apartments.— Altar _A third Building.— This City seen by the early Spanish Voyagers.— Continued to be occupied after the Conquest.— Adoratorios.— Accounts of ruined Cities in the Interior.— Return Voyage.— Sea-sickness. — Nesuc. — Kancune. — Ruined Buildings.— Island of Mugeres.— Sea-birds.— Appearance of the Island.— A hideous Funeral Pile.— Ibises.— Lafitte.— Piratical Associations.— Confession of a Pirate.— Visit to the Ruins. — A lonely Edifice. — Grand Scene. — Corridors. — Inscriptions. — Square Building. — Account of Bernal Dias. — Departure from trie Island. — Catoche. — Yalahao.— Ancient Mound.— El Cuyo. — An old Acquaintance in Misfortune . . . Page 401

Chapter XXIII

Port of Silan.— Hospitality.— Breakfast.— Walk along the Shore. — Flamingoes. — Shooting Excursion to Punta Arenas. — Wild Road. — Take Possession of a Hut. — Great Variety and immense Numbers of Wild Fowl. — Get Stuck in the Mud. — Flamingoes and Spoonbills. — A ludicrous Adventure. — Dissection of Birds. — Return to the Port. — The Quartel. — A Catastrophe. — Departure. — Village of Silan. — Gigantic Mound. — View from its Top. — Another Mound. — Accounts of Herrera and Cogolludo. — The Grave of Lafitte.— Hospitality of the Padres. — Departure from Silan. — Temax. — Church and Convent. — Izamal. — Fiesta of Santa Cruz. — Appearance of the City. — Mounds. — Colossal Ornaments in Stucco. — Gigantic Head. — Stupendous Mound. — Interior Chambers. — Church and Convent. — Built on an ancient Mound. — A Legend. — A Ball .... 419

Chapter XXIV

Departure for Merida. — The Road.— Cacalchen.— Hacienda of Ake.— The Ruins. — Great Mound called the Palace.— Immense Staircase.— Grand Approach. —Columns.— No Remains of a Building on the Mound.— Other Mounds. — Interior Chamber. — COiNTENTS. XIII A Senote. — Rude and Massive Character of these Ruins. — End of Journey among ruined Cities. — Number of Cities discovered. — Of the Builders of the American Cities. — Opinion. — Built by the Ancestors of the present Race of Indians. — Reply to Argu ments urged against this Belief. — Absence of Tradition. — Un paralleled Circumstances which attended the Conquest. — Un scrupulous Policy of the Spaniards. — Want of Tradition not confined to Events before the Conquest. — Nor peculiar to Amer ican Ruins. — Degeneracy of the Indians. — Insufficiency of these Arguments. — Farewell to Ruins . . . Page 440

Chapter XXV

Departure. — Arrival at Merida. — Old Acquaintances. — Giraffes. — Aspect of the Political Horizon. — The great Question of the Revolution undecided. — Nomination of Deputies to the Mexican Congress. — Santa Aria's Ultimatum. — Dissensions. — Pitiable Condition of the State. — Cause of the Convulsions of the Southern Republics. — State Rights. — Preparations for Departure from the Country. — Invasion of Yucatan. — Parting with Friends. — Embarcation for Havana. — Arrival there. — A Paseo. — The Tomb of Columbus. — Passage Home. — Conclusion 456 Vol. II.— A ENGRAVINGS. VOL.11. 1. FRONT/rSPIECE. I*g,. 2. Front of the Casa Grande at Zayi 17 3. Facade of the farthest Building at Zayi .... 20 4. Ground Plan of the Casa Grande 22 5. Terrace and Building 25 6. Terrace and Building 27 7. Ruined Building 37 8.

Building at Sabachshe 42 9. Building at Sabachshe 44 10. Pyramidal Mound and Building at Labna .... 50 11. Arched Gateway 54 12. Interior Front of Gateway 55 13. Portion of a Facade 66 14. Casa Real of Kewick 68 15. Doorway at Kewick 72 16. Curious Painting ........ 74 17. Front of a Building 76 18. Building at Sacbey 122 19. Building at Xampon 124 20. Building at Chunhuhu 130 21. A Doorway 131 22. A Building 132 23. A Building 134 24. Entrance to a Cave at Bolonchen 147 25. Principal Staircase in the Cave 148 26. Section of the Cave 150 27. A grand Structure 161 28. Ground Plan 163 29. Bas-reliefs 164 30. Building at Zibilnocac 188 31. An Aguada 209 32. Building at Macoba 218 33. An Aguada 225 34. System of Aguadas 227 35. MapofMani ENGRAVINGS. VOL. II. XVI Pase. 36. Senote at Chichen 287 37.

The Akatzeeb 291 38. Sculptured Stone Tablet 292 39. End Facade of the Monjas 293 40. Front of the Monjas 294 41. The Eglesia, or Church 296 42. The Caracol, a Circular Edifice 298 43. The Casa Colorada 300 44. Hieroglyphics 301 45. Picturesque View 302 46. Gymnasium, or Tennis Court 303 47. Sculptured Entwined Serpents 304 48. An Edifice 308 49. Figures in Bas-relief 309 50. Paintings 311 51. The Castillo . 312 52. Staircase, with colossal Serpents' Heads .... 313 53. Sculptured Figure 314 54. An Apartment 316 55. Rows of Columns and Castillo 319 56. PortofYalahao 347 57. Island of Cozumel 363 58. Square Building 373 59. Front View of the Castillo of Tuloom 390 60. Back View of the Castillo 392 61. An isolated Edifice ........ 393 62. Plan of the City Wall 396 63. A Watch-tower 397 64. A Building 402 65. A Building 403 66. An Adoratorio 407 67. A lonely Edifice 408 68. Immense Mound 428 69. Gigantic Head 434 70. Mound called El Palacio IN YUCATAN.

Chapter I

Departure from Nohcacab.— Outfit.— Rancho of Chack.— Fright of the Women. — Rancho of Schawill.— Casa Real.— Scarcity of Water.— Visit from the Alcalde. — Primitive Mode of obtaining Water.— A peculiar People.— Ruins of Zayi. — Great tree-covered Mound. — The Casa Grande. — Fortunate Discovery. — Staircase. — Doorways, &c. — Buildings on the second Terrace. — Doorways. — Curiously ornamented Columns.— Building on the third Terrace. — Doorways, Apartments, &c. — Stone Lintels. — Facade of the second Range of Buildings. — Ground Plan of the three Ranges. — The Casa Cerrada. — Doorways filled up inside with Stone and Mortar. — Finished Apartments, also filled up. — This filling up simultaneous with the Erection of the Building. — A Mound. — Ruined Building. — Its Interior. — Sculptured Head, &c. — A strange Structure. — An Archway. — Perpendicular Wall. — Stuccoed Figures and Ornaments. — Great Terrace and Building. — Apartments, &c. — Want of Interest manifested by the Indians in regard to these Ruins.

On the twenty-fourth of J anuary we left Nohca cab. It was a great relief to bid farewell to this place, and the only regret attending our departure was the reflection that we should be obliged to return. The kindness and attentions of the padreci to and his brother, and, indeed, of all the villagers, had been unremitted, but the fatigue of riding twelve miles every day over the same ground, and the difficulty of procuring Indians to work, were a constant Vol. II.— B source of annoyance ; besides which, we had a feeling that operated during the whole of our journey : wherever we were taken ill we became disgusted with the place, and were anxious to leave it. We were setting out on a tour which, according to the plan laid out, embraced a circuit of ruins, and required us to revisit Nohcacab, although our return would be only to make it a point of departure in another direction.

In consequence of this plan we left behind all our heavy luggage, and carried with us only the Da guerreotype apparatus, hammocks, one large box con taining our tin table service, a candlestick, bread, chocolate, coffee, and sugar, and a few changes of clothing in pestaquillas. Besides Albino and Ber naldo we had a puny lad of about fifteen, named Barnaby, a much smaller pattern than either of the others, and all three together were hardly equal in bulk to one fairly developed man. We were all provided with good horses for the road. Mr. Catherwood had one on which he could make a sketch without dismounting; Dr. Cabot could shoot from the back of his. Mine could, on an emergency, be pushed into a hard day's journey for a preliminary visit. Albino rode a hard-mouthed, wilful beast, which shook him constantly like a fit of the fever and ague, and which we distinguished by the name of the trotter.

Bernaldo asked for a horse, because Albino had one, but, instead of riding, he had to put a strap across his forehead and carry his own luggage on his back. RANCHO OF CHACK. 11 We were about entering a region little or not at all frequented by white men, and occupied entirely by Indians. Our road lay through the ruins of Ka bah, a league beyond which we reached the rancho of Chack. This was a large habitation of Indians, under the jurisdiction of the village of Nohcacab. There was not a white man in the place, and as we rode through, the women snatched up their children, and ran from us like startled deer. I rode up to a hut into which I saw a woman enter, and, stopping at the fence, merely from curiosity, took out a ci gar, and, making use of some of the few Maya words we had picked up, asked for a light, but the door re mained shut.

I dismounted, and before I had tied my horse the women rushed out and disappeared among the bushes. In one part of the rancho was a casa real, being a long thatched hut with a large square before it, protected by an arbour of leaves, and on one side was a magnificent seybo tree, throwing its shade to a great distance round. On leaving this rancho we saw at a distance on the left a high ruined building standing alone amid a great intervening growth of woods, and apparent ly inaccessible. Beyond, and at the distance of four leagues from Nohcacab, we reached the rancho of Schawill, which was our first stopping-place, on ac count of the ruius of Zayi in its immediate neigh bourhood. This place also was inhabited exclusively by Indians, rancho being the name given to a settlement not of sufficient importance to constitute a village.

The casa real, like that at Chack, was a large hut, with mud walls and a thatched roof. It had an open place in front about a hundred feet square, enclosed by a fence made of poles, and sha ded by an arbour of palm leaves. Around the hut were large seybo trees. The casa real is erected in every rancho of Indians expressly for the reception of the cura on his occasional or perhaps barely pos sible visits, but it is occupied also by small dealers from the villages, who sometimes find their way to these ranchos lo buy up hogs, maize, and fowls. The hut, when swept out, and comparatively clear of fleas, made a large and comfortable apartment, and furnished ample swinging room for six ham mocks, being the number requisite for our whole ret inue. This place was under the parochial charge of our friend the cura of Ticul, who, however, owing to the multiplicity of his other occupations, had vis ited it but once.

The padrecito had sent notice of our coming, and had charged the people to be in readiness to receive us. Immediately on our arrival, therefore, Indians were at hand to procure ra mon for the horses, but there was no water. The rancho had no well, and was entirely dependant on that of Chack, three miles distant. For two reals, however, the Indians undertook to procure us four cantaros, one for each horse, which would serve for the night. In the evening we had a formal visit from the alcalde and his alguazils, and half the village be sides. MODE OF OBTAINING WATER. 13 Although we had been some time in the country, we regarded this as really the beginning of our travels; and though the scenes we had met with already were not much like any we had ever encountered before, our first day's journey introduced us to some that were entirely new.