A Descriptive Account of Asam: with a sketch of the local geography, and a concise history of the Tea-Plant of Asam. ... Illustrated with four maps, etc

Front matter

A j DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT Ml ASAM: WITH A SKETCH OF THE LOCAL GEOGRAPHY, AND A CONCISE HISTORY OF Œf)£ ®*a?ipiaftt of asam: TO WHICH IS ADDED, A SHORT ACCOUNT OF THE NEIGHBOURING TRIBES, EXHIBITING THEIR HISTORY, MANNERS, AND CUSTOMS. BY WILLIAM ROBINSON, GOWHATTI GOVERNMENT SEMINARY. ILLUSTRATED WITH FOUR MATS, DRAWN EXPRESSLY FOR THe WORK. CALCUTTA: OSTELL AND LEPAGE, BRITISH LIBRARY. LONDON : Thomas Ostell & Co. 83, Leadenhall Street. MDCCCXM. Calcutta : BISHOPS COLLEGE PRESS. TO WHOM COULD A WORK OF THIS NATURE BE WITH GREATER PROPRIETY _3rtnratf& THAN THE OFFICER, TO WHOSE JUDICIOUS MANAGEMENT AND PRAISEWORTHY EXERTIONS THE PROVINCE IS INDEBTED FOR ITS PRESENT PROSPEROUS CONDITION. TO MAJOR FRANCIS JENKINS Agent to the Governor General North-East Frontier &c. &c. Src. THIS VOLUME Is WITH THE WARMEST SENTIMENTS OF GRATITUDE AND ESTEEM INSCRIBED BY THE AUTHOR Gowhatti, 18/ ft August, 1841.

Preface

. In submitting the following work to the public, the author deems it unnecessary to detain the reader by many prefatory remarks. The subject is one of acknowledged interest at the present time. The daily increasing im portance of Asam, and the conspicuous posi tion it begins to hold as the scene of great commercial advantages to British India, render a " Descriptive Account" of the province a great desideratum. But though no dispute will arise as to the importance of the work, the author has no rea son to expect the same unanimity about the fit ness of the workman. He delivers this volume to the world, with all the diffidence and anxiety natural to the author of such an undertaking. That there are defects in the work, he will ad mit ; nor can he forget how probable it is, that more impartial, and more discerning eyes will discover many which are invisible to his.

He begs it, however, to be considered, that the V] work was undertaken amidst numerous other important and arduous avocations. The sources of his information were further scattered in a great variety of repositories. It sometimes lay in considerable portions, but often in very mi nute ones ; sometimes by itself, but often mixed up with subjects of a very different nature : and even where information relating to his object stood disjoined from other subjects, a small portion of what was useful, commonly lay im bedded in a large mass of what was trifling and insignificant. It was his task to explore this assemblage of heterogeneous things, and to separate, for his own use, what was true, and what was false. Suffice it, however, to state, that his most strenuous endeavours have not been wanting to render the work, as far as his abilities, attain ments, and resources admitted, worthy of the encouragement of a discerning public.

Should it have the effect of bringing this highly valuable province into more general no tice; should it afford to inquirers more correct and authentic information than has hitherto been supplied ; and, finally, should it even in the most distant manner lead to an improve ment in the moral, as well as the temporal con dition of the people, he will consider the labour bestowed on it, more than repaid. It remains to state, that the present work was undertaken at the particular request of the distinguished officer to whom it is, with permis sion, dedicated. His literary talent, high attain ments, and superior knowledge of the province, render him by far the best qualified individual to write on the topics contained in the following pages. His more important duties, however, left him but little leisure for prosecuting such a task.

Under these circumstances, the author, in complying with his request, was of opinion, that if no one appeared with higher qualifica tions to undertake the work, it was better it should be done imperfectly, better it should be done even as he might be capable of doing it, than not be done at all. The author here begs publicly to acknow ledge the obligations he is under to Major Jenkins, for the unreserved communication with him he at all times enjoyed when in quest of in formation ; for the obliging manner in which he was allowed free access to the materials in his possession, as well as to the public documents contained in his office ; and likewise for the considerable aid afforded by him in procuring information from other quarters. His acknowledgments are also due to Mr. C. K. Hudson, for the kind assistance invariably afforded by him.

To him he is particularly indebted for the maps, with which the Local Geography is illustrated. To the Rev. Mr. Mack, and J. O. Voigt, Esq. of Serampore, the author is under peculiar obligation for the very obliging manner in which they undertook to inspect his MSS. and to revise the proof sheets in passing through the press. To all his other friends, who have on various occasions favoured him with their kind assistance, the author begs to offer his grateful ac knowledgments. 9 j', g(j atonteittg*

Chapter I. General Outline And Aspect

Page Asam a very interesting country — Derivation of the name — Boundaries — Divided by the Brahmaputra — Ancient Divisions — Beautiful country — Mountain scenery — Physical aspect — Diversity of soil — Hills — Diluvial plains — Alluvial lands— Rivers — The Brahmaputra and its great tributaries, ... ... ... ... 1

Chapter II. Climate And Its Effects On Man

Section I. — Climate. Acceptation of the term — Causes affecting climate — The action of the sun upon the atmosphere, not the only cause — The elevation of the land — Vicinity of mountain chains — Difference in the radiating and absorbing powers of the land — the climate of Asam approaches to that of Bengal — Modified by the geographical position of the province — Predominant winds in A sam- --North-westers — Humidity — Sources of aqueous exhalation — Rains of long continuance — Cold season — Characterized by the appearance of heavy fogs — Probable cause of these mists — Temperate climate — Warm weather — Mean annual temperature — Supposed causes of the equality of temperature, 12 Section II. — Effects of Climate on Man. Salubrity of the climate of Asam, compared with that of other parts of India — Influenced by certain localities — Causes of relaxing effects of the climate on the southern side ofthe valley — The northern side more healthy than the southern— Influence of climate on Europeans — Diseases most prevalent among them — Influence of climate on natives of Bengal and Hindosthan-—Its influence on the natives of the province — Prevailing diseases — Their causes and effects — Epidemic diseases — Endemic diseases, in CONTEXTS. X

Chapter III. Natural Geography

Section I.— Geology. Page. Scarcity of materials — Northern and Southern mountains — Granite — Limestone— Coal— Petroleum— Oil-springs— Mineral and Hot-springs -Brine-springs— Metals— Iron— Copper— Silver— Gold— Organic remains — Volcanic phenomena — Earthquakes, ■2H Section II. — Botany. General observations — Timber trees— Bamboos — Canes — Palms — Trees producing gums, varnishes, Sec— Trees used for dyeing and tanning- Plants cultivated for the manufacture of thread or cordage— Trees employed for rearing the silk worm — Trees on which the lac insect feeds — Plants used for chewing and smoking — Plants cultivated for their saccharine juice — Medicinal plants — Flower plants — Parasites — Ferns — Fruit trees — Esculent vegetables — Plants cultivated for their grain — Culmiferous plants — Leguminous grains — Oily seeds, M Section III. — Zoology.

General observations — Quadrupeds — Birds — Reptiles — Fishes — Insects, 92 €f)e Œtn Plant. Thea Viridis, Linn. Chamellia Theifera, Griff. Description of the tea plant— Its localities — Character of the soil — Comparison with the tea soils of China — The tea plant Botanically considered — Considered as an object of Agricultural produce — Account of manufacture — Names whereby the principal sorts of tea are known in China — Tea the favourite beverage of the adjacent hill tribes-— Mode of manufacture by the Singphos and other tribes — Mode of preparing it for drink by the Butias — A very successful result anticipated from the general culture of the tea plant in Asam, were it only with the view of rendering it a staple article of trade with the adjacent Hill tribes — Captain Turner's estimate of the value of tea consumed in Teshu Lumbu — Sketch of the History of the British trade — A cheering prospect opened up to British enterprise in Asam — CONTENTS.

XI Page. Discovery of the tea plant— Tea Committee appointed — Mr. Gordon deputed to China — Captain Jenkins highly instrumental in bringing the tea plant to notice — Reports from Captain Jenkins and Lieut. Charlton — Deputation of Scientific gentlemen to Asam — Appointment of Mr. Bruce — Asam tea manufactured and sent to England — Opi nions of the sample sent — Mr. Bruce succeeds in manufacturing a small specimen of green tea — The importance and advantages of. the dis covery of the tea plant in Asam — Formation of the Asam Company — Their subsequent arrangements — Altered temper of the Singphos — Terms for the grant of lands to tea cultivators, ... ... ... 127

Chapter IV. Historical Geography

Ancient History obscure and fabulous — Hindoo territory of Kamroop — Earliest tradition concerning it — Ancient Kings of Kamroop — Pal family — succeeded by another dynasty — Invasion of the Moosulmans —Anarchy— Rise of the Siba-bangsa — Their possession of Durrang — The gradual downfall of the kingdom — The Ahoms — Their tradition — Descendants of the Shyans — Traces of their origin — Change in the royal genealogies — Early History of their kings lost in fable — Cheekapha the first king of note — Subsequent conquests ofthe Ahoms — Their Progressive History — Insurrection ofthe Moomariyas — Civil Wars — Captain Welsh deputed to Asam — Quells the disturbances — Returns to Calcutta — Civil feuds — Invasion of the Burmese — Interference of the British Government — War with tlie Burmans — British Government obtain possession of Asam, ... ... ... 146

Chapter V. Political Geography

Ancient form of Government — Officers of stale — Detached Viceroys — Military Stations — Ceremony of Enthronement — Ancient Laws and Institutions — Criminal Laws — Civil Laws — Laws of legitimacy relative to property — Revenue System — Feudal Customs — Revenue Administration, subsequent to the occupation of the Country by the British Government — The present Civil Courts — Criminal Courts — Police — ... 189 Military Establishments, CONTENTS.

Chapter VI

productive industry. Page, The Industry of Asam in an unimproved state — Agriculture — Amount of waste lands — Irreclaimable waste — Condition of labourers — Implements of Agriculture — Cattle — Irrigation — Imperfect drainage — Embankments — Objects of culture— Grain — Materials of manufacture — Vegetable luxuries — Metals and Minerals — Manufactures — Cotton — Silk — Dyeing stuffs — Mechanics of common life — Fishing — Commerce — Articles of Export — Articles of Import — Trade with the adjoining Hill Tribes — Estimate of total value of Trade — Capable of very great extension — Lines of communication between Asam and Bengal — Route to Butan — Route to Thibet — Route to Burma and China, 216

Chapter VII

civil and social state. Population — Ahoms — Asamese language — Physical appearance of the people — Traits in the Character of the Ancient Asamese — compared with their present Condition — Religion — Traces of their primitive Worship — Introduction of Hinduism — Site of Sacred Buildings — Principal Temples — Various castes of Hindus — Mussulmans — Manners and Customs — Amusements — Music — Musical Instruments — Dancing — Festivals — Diet — Houses — Furniture — Dress — Condition of the Women — Marriage and Funeral Ceremonies — The Fine Arts — Literature — Education — Slavery, ... ... ... ... 252

Chapter VIII. Local Geography

Section I. — Kamrup, or Lower Asam. Boundaries — Area — Population — Revenue — Civil Officers — Former Divisions — Present Divisions — Duwars — Deshes — Chotimuwas — Shatters — Temples — Nalchiraz Lands — Police — Thanas — Gowhatti — Its ancient splendour — Principal Rivers in the Division, ... ... 288 Section II. — Durrung. Boundaries — Area — Population — Revenue — Civil Officers — Divisions — Police — Thanas — Desh Durrung — Chatagari — Kullung Duwar — CONTENTS Paye. Buriguma Duwar — Kariapara Duwar — Population of Chatgari- Kacharis — Their Manners and Customs — Chutia — Its Inhabitants- Chorduwar — Tezpur — Important Ruins — Naoduwar, ... ... 290 Section III. — Nowgong. Boundaries — Area — Population — Revenue Settlements — Present rates of Assessment — Fiscal Divisions — Civil Officers — Principal Rivers, 305 Section IV. — Sibpur.

Boundaries — Area — Physical Aspect — Former condition of the District — Population — Vegetable and Mineral Productions — Civil Officers — Fiscal Divisions — Revenue — Police Thanas — Principal Rivers, ... 317 Section V. — Lakimpur. Boundaries — Fiscal Divisions — Population — Early History — Civil Officers — Police — Revenue — Trade, 322 Section VI. — Sadyia. Boundaries — Area — Moamarias — Their History — Muttuk Country — Trade — Inhabitants — Sadyia— civil Officers — Police — Revenue, 326 Wbt PHU €nfi*0. Introductory Notice, ... ... ... ... 335 Section I The Butias. Butan— General Outline and Physical Aspect— Rivers— Geology— Government Revenue— Productive Industry-— Lines of communication between Asam and Butan-— Civil and Social state of the People, ... 341 Section II Akas and Kapachors.

Extent of their Territories— Descent— Language— Their present Chief 352 Section III. --The Duphlas. Extent of their Territories— Levy Black Mail— Various Clans— Duph- CONTENTS. Page. las on the lower Ranges mostly refugees from the Plains---Those in the interior little known- --Asamese Slaves-— Dress and Appearance— Manjit, ... ... ... ... ... ... 353 Section IV. ---The Miris. Chief Seat — their Hills little known — Connection with the Abors— Manners and Customs — Language — Trade — Independent Miris — Intended Embassy to their Hills, ... ... ... ... 356 Section V The Abors and Bor-abors. Extent of their Territories — Government — Cane Bridges — Villages — Dress — Food — Trade — Settlers in the Plains — Friendly Disposition — Supposed Fidelity, ... ... ... ... 359 Section VI. — Mishmis and Bor-Mishmis.

Hills occupied by them — Various Clans — Acknowledge a common origin with the Abors — Language — The People---Their Dress-— Religion — Laws ---Houses -•- Domestic Animals-- -Cultivation- --Cane Bridges — Trade — Acknowledged allegiance to the British Government— Tlie Lama Country, ... ... ... ... ... 364 Section VII.— The Khamtis. Descent—Political History- -Language— Religion— -Manners and Customs—Silver Mine—-Muluks-—Kujungs-—Khunungs, 371 Section VIII.— The Singphos. Boundaries— Irruptions— Altered Habits--- Tribes---Classes— -Language —Religion— Funeral Rites— Polygamy-— Inheritance-— Khakoos— their Territories- ■-Cultivation— Manners and Customs— Burmese Singphos, 373 Section IX. — Naga Tribes. Boundaries and Extent— -Origin of the Appellation— -Original Descent ---Imperfect knowledge ofthe Tribes-— Missionaries to the Nagas - -- Manipur--- Naga Tribes- --Those in communication with Asam---Salt CONTENTS.

XV Page. Wells- -Connection with the Government of Asam---Attgami Nagus Civil and Social State— Condition of the Women — Agriculture — Vegetable and Mineral Productions--- Wars — Dress — Habitations — Amusements — Religion — Funeral Rites, ... ... ... 380 Section X. — Kachar. Boundaries — Early History — Raja Govind Chandra — Escheatment of his Territories io the British Government — Ancient Citadel — Present Inhabitants, ... ... ... ... ... ... 399 Section XI. — The Khassias. Description of the country — Jaintia — The confederated states — connexion with British Government — Form of Government— Disposition of the People — Amusements — Trade — Religion — Marriage and Funeral ceremonies, ... ... ... ... ... ... 406 Section XII. — Garos. Nature of country — Trade — People — Dress — Dwellings — Food — Dances — Marriages— Funerals — Religion— Connection with British Government, ... ... ... ... ... 415 ifttapa.

General Map of Asam, on a scale of 16 miles to an inch, to face the title. Page. Map of Zillah Kamroop, or Lower Asam, 281 Do. of Zillah Durrung Part, I. 290 Do. Nowgong, or Central Asam, Part II.

Chapter I. General Outline And Aspect

-4sam a very interesting country— Derivation of the name — Boundaries — Divided by the Brahmaputra — Ancient Divisions — Beautiful country — ■ Mountain scenery — Physical aspect — Diversity of soil — Hills — Diluvial plains — Alluvial lands — Rivers — The Brahmaputra and its great tributaries. Asam is in many points of view a most interesting country. Situated on the north-eastern extremity of the British territory, and bordering on the powerful neighbouring states of Butan, China, and Burma, Asam is the key to the Bri tish possessions in this quarter, and deserves therefore the at tention of the statesman. It is possessed of rivers in number and extent equal at least to those of any country in the world of the same size. The extraordinary fertility of its soil, its extensive low lands, and its mountain tracts, give it already the productions both of the tropics and of temperate regions, and it requires but further cultivation by a more numerous and enlightened peasantiy, to render its produce tenfold more abundant.

Its revenue even now shows progressive improve ment; and as our communications are opened with the numerous tribes surrounding it, and extended to Butan on the north, and the Shyans on the south-east, new channels of commerce will be obtained, which cannot fail to enrich the country through which they pass, and give a stimulus to its own agricultural and manufacturing industry ; it must therefore interest the political economist. Its unexplored mineral treasures, among which gold and iron are abundant ; its animal and vegetable productions ; the descent, customs, and languages of its numerous mountain tribes, present sub jects of inquiry which deserve, and if vigorously prosecuted, will abundantly repay, the researches of the lover of nature and the observer of mankind. The name Asam is generally supposed to be derived from the Sanskrit term asama, a compound word formed from the negative particle ***3| a and jjjf sam, equal, signifying un equalled or unrivalled ; but it seems probable that this derivation was merely an invention of the Brahmins, after the con version of the last dynasty to the Brahminical faith.

This dynasty was of a tribe of Shyans, called Ahoms or Asoms, who invaded the country, and from whom it might with greater probability have derived its present appellation. In the Purans, or sacred books of the Hindoos, the western portion of the country is termed Kamrup, and the most eastern Namrup ; whilst that portion of it lying between the two, and surround ing the ancient town of Gorganh, or Guerganh, was called the country of Gadha or Gadhagram ; whence probably may have originated the general name of the countiy in Western India, Gor, or, as written by Ptolemy, Corrha. Asam is bounded on the north and north-east by a range of lofty mountains, rising abruptly to the height of from five to six thousand feet above the level of the adjacent plains, inhabited by Butias, Duflas, Abors, and Mishmis ; on the south and south-east by another line of mountainous country, peopled by Khasias, Kacharis, and Nagas ; and on the west by the province of Bengal.

The boundary line between Asam and Bengal has constantly varied. The Asamese records claim for the western boundary of Asam the river Kirratiya, running through the Purgunnah of Goraghat. It is certain however, that the kingdom of Asam, under the Ahom dynasty, never extended west beyond Gowalpara; and when the river Kuaratiya is claimed as the boundary, the claim must allude to the western boundary of the old Hindu kingdom of Kamrup, or probably to that river having been the boundary between the Rajas of Gour and the Kuch Rajas, who founded the kingdom of Kuch-Behar, and afterwards conquered all the north-east territory of Rungpore, and the western parts of Asam. The boundary line between Asam and Bengal, since the former was placed under British control, has been the Monass river on the northern shore of the Brahmaputra, and on its southern bank an imaginary line a httle west of the hill of Nagharbera.

From this boundary west, or longitude 90° 40', to the Mishmi and Singpho hills east, or longitude 97° 20', a length of about 500 British statute miles, is comprised the country commonly known as Asam. Its breadth between the nor thern and southern mountains varies considerably, but may be averaged at about sixty miles, covering an area of 30,000 square miles, or 1,58,70,000 purahs of Asam. This valley is intersected in its whole length by the great river the Brahmaputra, from which it derives its most appropriate name. The two parts thus divided are called the Uttargorah and Dakkingorah, or the north and south bank. These may be termed the geographical divisions of the country; although they at one time likewise divided from each other distinct people, and independent principalities and jurisdictions, until all were subdued under the same authority in the reign of Jaiya Dhwaja Sing, a. d. 1665.

All the north bank appears anciently to have been called Kamrup, and the southern bank Namrup, though at present the latter name is confined merely to a small district in the south-east, whilst the former is applied to the whole of Lower Asam. Of the ancient divisions of the country little is now known. The first line of princes in Asam, of whom we have any authentic record, is the Hindu dynasty of Brahmaputra. The extent of their possessions however is not ascertained, but as to these Rajas are ascribed the great gars, or forts, of Baidar gar in Kamrup and Pratasspuriagar in Bishnath, and no monuments of their reign are traced elsewhere, it seems probable that the north bank of the river, as far as the latter station only, was held by them. The next race who held Lower Asam were the Kuch Rajas.

They possessed them selves of nearly the whole of the present districts of Kamrup and Darang. The names of these two divisions, however they may have originated, have prevailed since the era of their pos session of the country. Whilst the Kuch Rajas were possessing themselves of Lower Asam, the Ahoms had invaded the south-eastern extremity of the valley ; and their conquests, together with the settlements of the colonists of this race, led to the permanent distinction of Kamrup from Asam, or Lower from Upper Asam. Asam is naturally a beautiful tract of country, and enjoys all the advantages requisite for rendering it one of the finest under the sun — though at present, owing to its very thinly populated state, by far the greater portion of it is allowed to run to waste with luxuriance of vegetation.

Notwithstanding, it occasionally presents a scenery comparable perhaps to the richest in the world. Its plains decked with a rich verdant robe, and abounding with numerous crystal streams, which winding along the base of a group of beautifully wooded hills, covered to their very summits with trees, interspersed with dark and deep glens, and heaving their swelling ridges into a bright blue sky, constitute altogether a scene of extraordinary magnificence and sublimity, and display a regularity and soft ness of feature that beggars description. On the other hand, to such as find satisfaction in contemplating nature in her ru dest and most gigantic forms, what an inexhaustible fund of delight is here likewise displayed ! Mountains beyond moun tains hurled together in wild confusion, seem to the specta tor like the wrecks of a ruined world ; and whilst the eye is gratified with the pleasing panorama, a series of hills innumerable is presented to view, retiring far away in fine perspec tive, till their blue conical summits are relieved by the proud pinnacles of the Himalaya towering their lofty magazines of tempests and snow midway up to the vertex of the sky, and exhibiting scenes calculated to animate the mind with the sublimest sentiments, and to awaken the most lofty recollections.

In viewing the physical aspect of the country, the beholder is at once struck with the peculiarity of a perfect plain, stud ded with numerous clumps of hills rising abruptly from the general level, and surrounded by lofty mountains, and inter sected in all possible directions by innumerable streams and rivulets, which issuing from the bordering mountains, at length empty themselves into the great channel of the Brahma putra. From the length of the valley, as might be conjectured, the soil is very varied ; but to enter into any minute detail of its varieties would be foreign to our purpose. Suffice it to say, that the soil of Asam is exceedingly rich, and well adapted to all kinds of agricultural purposes, for the most part composed of a rich black loam, reposing on a grey sandy clay, though occasionally consisting of a light yellow clayey texture.

The lands in Asam may in general be divided into three great classes, with reference to the level of the waters of the Brahmaputra. The first division is composed of hills, the largest group of which within the valley is that of the Mikir hills, which stand out in the plain, insulated from the southern mountains by the valley of the Jumna river. These extend from east to west to about 63 miles, and are in breadth about 27 miles, occupying an area of 1700 square miles. The hills pro jecting into the valley at Gowhatti, and extending from Naigang to the Kamakhya Parbut, likewise form another, and the only other considerable interruption of the flat plain of the valley. But these latter are rather prolongations of spurs from the Khassia chain, than isolated groups belong ing to the valley. The other hills of Rudrassed, Kaleabar, Singori, Hajie, Sialkuchi, Katimora, &c. are all insulated, of small extent, and excepting for the space they stand upon, not affecting the level of the adjacent plains.

The second division of the lands is what may be termed the diluvial plain of the valley, its level being generally above the ordinary inundations of the Brahmaputra, or of those of its tributary streams. The channels of some of the hill streams, however, are of so little depth that the highest lands in their neighbourhood are often liable to sudden inun dations. On the north bank of the great river, the lands are conti nuous throughout the whole length ofthe valley, except where they may be partially interrupted by the alluvial beds of the hill streams. The breadth of these plains is in some places very trifling, whilst in others they comprise a tract of many miles in extent; this however depends in a great measure on the number and the height of the rocks or hills that pro tect the lands from the devastating aberrations of the great river.

One of these projecting points is at Bishnath, where the rocks rise to a height of about thirty feet above the highest inundations of the Brahmaputra. All the lands from that point, back to the hills, have been thus protected from the encroachments of the river, and now form a high dry plain, extending about twenty-five miles, and then gradually rising in steppes towards the lower ranges of the Butan mountains. The low hills of Tezpore and Singori, standing on the banks of the Brahmaputra, have in like manner been the means of preventing any encroachments of the river upon the plains of Chardwar and Chutiga, which lie to the west of each of the above hills, thus preserving a large tract of coun try from the ravages of a periodical inundation. On the south bank of the river, the width of the diluvial plain is greatest immediately east of the Dhansiri.

The great projection to the north of the Mikir hills, and the non occurrence of rocks on the opposite bank, being the cause of the Brahmaputra at that point taking a northerly direc tion, a deep plain has in consequence been preserved on its southern bank, extending from the river back to the Naga hills, and comprising a breadth of about thirty miles. To the west of the Dhansiri, the occurrence of diluvial lands is very uncertain, and when they do occur, they are for the most part of small extent. The alluvial deposits of the Brahmaputra and of its tribu tary streams may be considered as another, and the third, general division of lands, in Asam. These lands are very extensive, especially so along the channel of the great river, and are of great variety of fertility and elevation, from the vast churs of pure sand subject to annual inundations, to the great islands so raised by drift sand and the accumu lated remains of rank vegetable matter, that they are no longer immerged even during the highest inundations of the adjacent streams.

The rapidity with which wastes composed entirely of sand, newly washed forward by the current during floods, become converted into rich pasture is astonishing, and this too in dependent of any subjacent impervious structure. As the freshes begin to lessen and retire into the deeper channels, the currents form natural embankments on their edges, preventing the return of a small portion of water, which is thus left extended over the sands. These last already saturated, having little capacity for more fluid, that on the surface remains stagnant and exposed to the action of the sunJs rays, and slowly evaporates, leaving a thin, impervious crust of animal and vegetable matter. This impregnated with the seeds of Saccharum spontaneum, and other grasses that have been partly transmitted by the winds, and partly left behind by the waters, derives sufficient moisture from the mists and dews, so prevalent along the Brahmaputra during the nights and mornings, to form a non-conducting medium sufficient to protect the germs from the scorching heat to which they would be otherwise exposed in the naked sand.