Incidents of travel in Central America, Chiapas and Yucatan ... Illustrated. ... New (tenth) edition

Chapter I

Visit to the Volcano of Masaya. — Village of Masaya. — Lake of Masaya.— Nindi ri.— Ascent of the Volcano.— Account of it.— The Crater.— Descent into it.— Volcano of Nindiri. — Ignorance of the People concerning Objects of Interest. — Return to Masaya. — Another Countryman. — Managua. — Lake of Managua. — Fishing. — Beautiful Scenery. — Mateares. — Questa del Relox.— Nagarotis. — Crosses. — A Gamekeeper. — Pueblo Nuevo Page 7

Chapter II

Beautiful Plain.— Leon.— Stroll through the Town.— Baneful Effects of Party Spirit. — Scenes of Horror. — Unpleasant Intelligence. — Joumey continued. — A fastidious Beggar. — Chinandaga. — Gulf of Couchagua. — Visit to Realejo. — Cotton Factory.— Harbour of Realejo. — El Viejo.— Port of Nagoscolo. — Importance of a Passport. — Embarking Mules. — A Bungo. — Voleano of Cosaguina.— Eruption of 1835.— La Union 82

Chapter III

Joumey to San Salvador. — A new Companion. — San Alejo. — San Miguel. — Was Alarms. — Another Countryman. — State of San Salvador. — River Lempa. — San Vicente. — Volcano of San Vicente. — Thermal Springs. — Cojutepeque.— Arrival at San Salvador. — Prejudice against Foreigners. — Contributions. — Pressgangs. — Vice-president Vigil.— Taking of San Miguel and San Vicente. —Rumours of a March upon San Salvador. — Departure from San Salvador 41

Chapter IV

Contributions. — El Baranco de Guaramal. — Volcano of Izalco. — Depredations of Rascon. — Zonzonate. — News from Guatimala. — Journey continued. — Aguisal co. — Apeneca. — Mountain of Aguachapa. — Subterranean Fires. — Aguachapa. — Defeat of Morazan. — Confusion and Terror ...... 58

Chapter V

Approach of Carrera's Forces.— Terror of the Inhabitants.— Their Flight.— Surrender of the Town.— Ferocity of the Soldiery.— A Bulletin.— Diplomacy.— A Passport. — A Breakfast.— An Alarm.— The Widow Padilla.— An Attack.— De feat of Carrera's Forces.— The Town taken by General Morazan —His Entry. —The Widow's Son.— Visit to General Morazan.— His Appearance, Character, &c— Plans deranged CONTENTS.

Chapter VI

Visit from General Morazan.— End of his Career. — Procuring a Guide.— Departure for Guatimala.— Fright of the People.— The Rio Paz.— Hacienda of Palmita. — A fortunate Escape. — Hacienda of San Jose. — An awkward Predicament. — A kind Host.— Rancho of Hocotilla. — Oratorio and Leon. — Rio de los Esclavos. — The Village. — Approach to Guatimala. — Arrival at Guatimala. — A Sketch of the Wars. — Defeat of Morazan. — Scene of Massacre . Page 93

Chapter VII

Ruins of Quirigua. — Visit to them. — Los Amates.— Pyramidal Structure. — A Colossal Head. — An Altar. — A Collection of Monuments. — Statues. — Character of the Ruins.— A lost City.— Purchasing a ruined City . . .118

Chapter VIII

Reception at the Government House.— The Captain in Trouble.— A Change of Character.— Arrangements for Journey to Palenque.— Arrest of the Captain.— His Release.— Visit from a Countryman.— Dangers in Prospect.— Last Stroll through the Suburbs.— Hospital and Cemetery of San Juan de Dios.— Fearful State of the Country.— Last Interview with Carrera.— Departure from Guatimala.— A Don Quixote. — Ciudad Vieja. — Plain of El Vieja. — Volcanoes, Plains, and Villages.— San Andres Isapa.— Dangerous Road.— A Molina . 125

Chapter IX

journey continued.— Barrancas.— Tecpan Guatimala.— A noble Church.— A sacred Stone.— The ancient City.— Description of the Ruins.— A Molina.— Another Earthquake — Patzum.— A Ravine.— Fortifications. —Los Altos. — Godines. —Losing a good Friend.— Magnificent Scenery.— San Antonio.— Lake of Atitan 146

Chapter X

Lake of Atitan.— Conjectures as to its Origin, &c— A Sail on the Lake.— A dangerous Situation.— A lofty Mountain Range.— Ascent of the Mountains.— Commanding View.— Beautiful Plain.— An elevated Village.— Ride along the Lake. — Solola.— Visit to Santa Cruz del Quiche.— Scenery on the Road— Barrancas. —San Thomas.— Whipping-posts.—Plain of Quiche.— The Village.— Ruins of Quiche. -Its History.— Desolate Scene.— A facetious Cura.— Description of the Ruins.— Plan.— The Royal Palace.— The Place of Sacrifice.— An Image. —Two Heads, &c— Destruction of the Palace recent.— An Arch . .161

CHAPTER XL

Interior of a Convent.— Royal Bird of Quiche.— Indian Languages.— The Lord's Prayer in the Quiche Language.— Numerals in the same.— Church of Quiche. —Indian Superstitions.— Another lost City.— Tierra de Guerra.— The Aboriginals.— Their Conversion to Christianity.— They were never conquered.— A CONTENTS. V living City. — Indian Tradition respecting this City. — Probably has never been visited by the Whites. — Presents a noble Field for suture Enterprise. — Departure. — San Pedro.— Virtue of a Passport. — A difficult Ascent. — Mountain Scenery. — Totonicapan.— An excellent Dinner.— A Country of Aloes. — " River of Blood." — Arrival at Quezaltenango Page 18")

Chapter XII

Quezaltenango.— Account of it.— Conversion of the Inhabitants to Christianity. — Appearance of the City. — The Convent. — Insurrection. — Carrera's March upon Quezaltenango. — His Treatment of the Inhabitants. — Preparations for Holy Week.— The Church.— A Procession.— Good Friday.— Celebration of the Resurrection. — Opening Ceremony.— The Crucifixion. — A Sermon. — Descent from the Cross. — Grand Procession. — Church of El Calvario. — The Case of the Cura. — Warm Springs of Almolonga 203

Chapter XIII

Journey continued. — A Mountain Plain. — Lost Guides. — A trying Moment. — Agua Calientes. — A magnificent View. — Gold Ore.— San Sebastiano.— Gueguetenango. — Sierra Madre. — A huge Skeleton. — The Ruins. — Pyramidal Structures. — A Vault. — Mounds. — A welcome Addition. — Interior of a Mound. — Vases. — Ascent of the Sierra Madre. — Buena Vista. — The Descent. — Todos Santos.— San Martin. — San Andres Petapan. — A Forest on Fire. — Suffering of the Mules from Swarms of Flies. — San Antonio de Guista . . . 221

Chapter XIV

Comfortable Lodgings. — Journey continued. — Stony Road. — Beautiful River. — Suspension Bridge. — The Dolores. — Rio Lagertero. — Enthusiasm brought down. — Another Bridge. — Entry into Mexico.— A Bath.— A Solitary Church. — A Scene of Barrenness. — Zapolouta. — Comitan. — Another Countryman. — More Perplexities. — Official Courtesy. — Trade of Comitan. — Smuggling. — Scarcity of Soap 240

Chapter XV

Parting.— Sotana.— A Millionaire.— Ocosingo.— Ruins.— Beginning of the Rainy Season.— A Female Guide.— Arrival at the Ruins.— Stone Figures.— Pyramidal Structures. — An Arch. — A Stucco Ornament. — A Wooden Lintel. — A ctirious Cave. — Buildings, &c— A Causeway. — More Ruins. — Journey to Palenque. — Rio Grande. — Cascades. — Succession of Villages. — A Maniac. — The Yahalon. — Tumbala. — A wild Place. — A Scene of Grandeur and Sublimity. — Indian Carriers.— A steep Mountain. — San Pedro 255

Chapter XVI

A wild Country.— Ascent of a Mountain.— Ride in a Silla.— A precarious Situation. — The Descent.— Rancho of Nopa.— Attacks of Moschetoes.— Approach to Palenque.— Pasture Grounds.— Village of Palenque.— A crusty Official.— A VI CONTENTS. r courteous Reception. — Scarcity of Provisions. — Sunday.— Cholera. — Another Countryman. — The Conversion, Apostacy, and Recovery of the Indians. — River Chacamal. — The Caribs. — Ruins of Palenque ...... 273

Chapter XVII

Preparations for visiting the Ruins. — A Turn-out. — Departure.— The Road.- Rivers Micol and Otula.— Arrival at the Hums.— The Palace.— A Feu-de-joia. — Quarters in the Palace.— Inscriptions by former Visiters. — The Fate of Beanham.— Discovery of the Ruins of Palenque. — Visit of Del Rio. — Expedition of Dupaix. — Drawings of the present Work. — First Dinner at the Ruins.— Mammoth Fireflies.— Sleeping Apartments.— Extent of the Ruins.— Ob stacles to Exploration. — Suffering from Moschetoes 289

Chapter XVIII

Precautions against the Attacks of Moschetoes.— Mode of Life at Palenque.— Description of the Palace.— Piers.— Hieroglyphics.— Figures.— Doorways.— Corridors.— Courtyards.— A wooden Relic— Stone Steps.— Towers.— Tablets. —Stucco Ornaments, &c, &c— The Royal Chapel— Explorations.— An Aqueduct.— An Alarm.— Insects.— Effect of Insect Stings.— Return to the Village of Palenque *.... 308

Chapter XIX

A Voice from the Ruins.— Buying Bread.— Arrival of Padres.— Cura of Palenque. —Card Playing.— Sunday.— Mass.— A Dinner Party.— Mementoes of Home.— Dinner Customs.— Return to the Ruins.— A marked Change.— Terrific Thunder.— A Whirlwind.— A Scene of the Sublime and Terrible . . . 325

Chapter XX

Plan of the Ruins.— Pyramidal Structure.— A Building.— Stucco Ornaments.— Human Figures.— Tablets.— Remarkable Hieroglyphics.— Range of Pillars.— Stone Terrace.— Another Building.— A large Tablet.— A Cross.— Conjectures in regard to this Cross.— Beautiful Sculpture.— A Platform.— Curious Devices.— A Statue. —Another Pyramidal Structure, surmounted by a Building.— Corridors.— A curious Bas-relief.— Stone Tablets, with Figures in Bas-relief.— Tablets and Figures— The Oratorio.— More Pyramidal Structures and Buildings.— Extent of the Ruins.— These Ruins the Remains of a polished and peculiar People.— Antiquity of Palenque ..... .337

Chapter XXI

Departure from the Ruins.— Bad Road.— An Accident.— Arrival at the Village. —A Funeral Procession.— Negotiations for Purchasing Palenque.— Making Casts.— Final Departure from Palenque.— Beautiful Plain.— Hanging Birds'- nests.— A Sitio:— Adventure with a monstrous Ape.— Hospitality of Padres.— Las Playas.— A Tempest.— Moschetoes.— A Youthful Merchant.— Alligators. —Another Funeral.— Disgusting Ceremonials ....... CONTENTS. VII

Chapter XXII

Embarcation. — An inundated Plain.— Rio Chico.— The Usumasinta— Ric Palisada. — Yucatan.— More Revolutions. — Vespers. — Embarcation for the Laguna. — Shooting Alligators. — Tremendous Storm. — Boca Chico. — Lake of Terminos. — A Calm, succeeded by a Tempest.— Arrival at the Laguna . . Page 374

Chapter XXIII

Laguna. — Journey to Merida.— Sisal. — A new Mode of Conveyance. — Village of Hunucama. — Arrival at Merida. — Aspect of the City.— Flte of Corpus Domini. — The Cathedral. — The Procession. — Beauty and Simplicity of the Indian Women.— Palace of the Bishop.— The Theatre.— Journey to Uxmal.— Hacienda of Vayalquex.— Value of Water.— Condition of the Indians in Yucatan. —A peculiar kind of Coach.— Hacienda of Mucuyche.— A beautiful Grotto 391

Chapter XXIV

Joumey resumed. — Arrival at Uxmal. — Hacienda of Uxmal. — Major-domos.— Adventures of a young Spaniard. — Visit to the Ruins of Uxmal. — First Sight of the Ruins. — Character of the Indians. — Details of Hacienda Life.— A delicate Case. — Illness of Mr. Catherwood. — Breaking up .... .410

Chapter XXV

Ruins of Uxmal. — A lofty Building. — Magnificent View from its Doorway. — Peculiar sculptured Ornaments. — Another Building, called by the Indians the House of the Dwarf.— An Indian Legend.— The House of the Nuns.— The House of Turtles. — The House of Pigeons.— The Guard-house.— Absence ol Water. — The House of the Governor. — Terraces. — Wooden Lintels. — Details of the House of the Governor. — Doorways. — Corridors. — A Beam of Wood, in scribed with Hieroglyphics.— Sculptured Stones, &c. .... 420

Chapter XXVI

Exploration finished.— Who built these ruined Cities?— Opinion of Dupaix. — These Ruins bear no Resemblance to the Architecture of Greece and Rome. — Nothing like them in Europe.— Do not Resemble the known Works of Japan and China. — Neither those of Hindu. — No Excavations found. — The Pyramids of Egypt, in their original State, do not resemble what are called the Pyramids of America. — The Temples of Egypt not like those of America. — Sculpture not the same as that of Egypt. — Probable Antiquity of these Ruins. — Accounts of the Spanish Historians. — These Cities probably built by the Races inhabiting the Country at the time of the Spanish Conquest. — These Races not yet extinct 436

Chapter XXVII

Joumey to Merida.— Village of Moona.— A Pond of Water, a Curiosity.— Aboula. — Indian Runners.— Merida. — Departure.— Hunucama. — Siege of Campeachy. —Embarcation for Havana.— Incidents of the Passage.— Fourth of July at Sea. —Shark-fishing.— Getting lost at Sea.— Relieved by the Helen Maria.— Passage to New-York.— Arrival. — Conclusion ....... ENGRAVINGS OP VOLUME II. Page Stone Tablet ...... Frontispiece. tdol at Quirigua 121 Idol at Quirigua 122 Santa Cruz del Quiche 171 Place of Sacrifice 184 Figures found at Santa Cruz del Quiche 185 Plaza of Quezaltenango 204 Vases found at Gueguetenango . 231 Ocosingo 259 Palace at Palenque 309 Plan of Palace 310 Stucco Figure on Pier 311 Front Corridor of Palace 313 No. 1, Courtyard of Palace 314 No. 2. Colossal Bas-reliefs in Stone 314 East Side of Courtyard 315 No. 1, Bas-relief in Stucco 310 No. 2, Bas-relief in Stucco 316 No. 3, Bas-relief in Stucco 316 Oval Bas-relief in Stone 318 Bas-relief in Stucco 319 General Plan of Palenque 337 CasaNo. 1 in Ruins 338 Casa No. 1 restored 339 No. 1, Bas-relief in Stucco 340 No. 2, Bas-relief in Stucco 340 No. 3, Bas-relief in Stucco 340 No. 4, Bas-relief in Stucco 340 No. 1, Tablet of Hieroglyphics 342 No. 2, Tablet of Hieroglyphics 342 Tablet on inner Wall 343 Casa di Piedras No. 2 344 Tablet on back Wall of Altar, Casa No. 2 345 Stone Statue ---- 349 CasaNo. 3 ENGRAVINGS OF VOLUME II.

Page Front Corridor 351 No. 1, Bas-reliefs in Front of Altai 353 No. 2, Bas-reliefs in Front of Altar 353 Adoratorio or Altar 354 CasaNo. 4 — ~ 355 House of the Dwarf - 420 Casa del Gobernador .. .... 428 Sculptured Front of Casa del Gobernador .... ... 434 Egyptian Hieroglyphics 441 Top of Altar at Copan ._ ....... 454 Mexican Hieroglyphical Writing . ........... .„..._ ....... OF CENTRAL AMERICA, CHIAPAS, AND YUCATAN.

Chapter I

Visit to the Volcano of Masaya.— Village of Masaya. — Lake of Masaya. — Nindiri. — Ascent of the Volcano. — Account of it. — The Crater.— Descent into it. — Volcano of Nindiri. — Ignorance of the People concerning Objects of Interest. — Return to Masaya. — Another Countryman. — Managua. — Lake of Managua. — Fishing. — Beautiful Scenery.— Mateares. — Questa del Relox. — Nagarotis. — Crosses. — A Gamekeeper. — Pueblo Nuevo. March 1. Anxious as I was to hurry on, I resolved nevertheless to give one day to the Volcano of Masaya. For this purpose I sent a courier ahead to procure me a guide up the volcano, and did not get off till eleven o'clock. At a short distance from the city we met a little negro on horseback, dressed in the black suit that nature made him, with two large plantain leaves sewed together for a hat, and plantain leaves for a saddle.

At the distance of two leagues we came in sight of the volcano, and at four o'clock, after a hot ride, entered the town, one of the oldest and largest in Nicaragua, and though completely inland, containing, with its sub urbs, a population of twenty thousand. We rode to the house of Don Sabino Satroon, who lay, with his mouth open, snoring in a hammock ; but his wife, a pretty young half-blood, received me cordially, and with a proper regard for the infirmities of an old husband and for me, did not wake him up. All at once he shut his mouth and opened his eyes, and gave me a cordial welcome. Don Sabino was a Colombian, who had been banished for ten years, as he said, for services rendered his country; and having found his way to Masaya, had married the pretty young half-breed, and set up as a doctor.

Inside the door, behind a little stock of sugar, rice, sausages, and chocolate, was a formidable array of jars and bottles, exhibiting as many colours and as puzzling labels as an apothecary's shop, at home. I had time to take a short walk around the town, and turning down the road, at the distance of half a mile came to the brink of a precipice, more than a hundred feet high, at the foot of which, and a short distance beyond, was the Lake of Masaya. The descent was almost perpendicular, in one place by a rough ladder, and then by steps cut in the rock. I was obliged to stop while fifteen or twenty women, most of them young girls, passed. Their water-jars were made of the shell of a large gourd, round, with fanciful figures scratched on them, and painted or glazed, supported on the back by a strap across the forehead, and secured by fine network.

Below they were chattering gayly, but by the L,time they reached the place where I stood they were silent, their movements very slow, their breathing hard, and faces covered with profuse perspiration. This was a great part of the daily labour of the women of the place, and in this way they procured enough for domestic use ; but every horse, mule, or cow was obliged to go by a circuitous road of more than a league for water. Why a large town has grown up and been continued so far from this element of life, I do not know. The Spaniards found it a large Indian village, and as they immediately made the owners of the soil their drawers of water, they did not feel the burden ; nor do their descendants now. VOLCANO OF MASAYA. 9 In the mean time my guide arrived, who, to my great satisfaction, wan no less a personage than the alcalde himself.

The arrangements were soon made, and I was to join him the next morning at his house in Nindiri. I gave my mules and Nicolas a day's rest, and started on Don Sabino's horse, with a boy to act as guide and to carry a pair of alforgas with provisions. In half an hour I reached Nindiri, having met more people than on my whole road from San Jose to Nicaragua. The alcalde was ready, and in company with an assistant, who carried a pair of alforgas with provisions and a calabash of water, all mounted, we set out. At the distance of half a league we left the main road, and turned off on a small path in the woods on the left. We emerged from this into an open field covered with lava, extending to the base of the volcano in front and on each side as far as I could see, black, several feet deep, and in some places lying in high ridges.

A faint track was beaten by cattle over this plain of lava. In front were two volcanoes, from both of which streams of lava had run down the sides into the plain. That directly in front my guide said was the Volcano of Masaya. In that on the right, and far thest from us, the crater was broken, and the great chasm inside was visible. This he said was called Ven tero, a name I never heard before, and that it was in accessible. Riding toward that in front, and crossing the field of lava, we reached the foot of the volcano. Here the grass was high, but the ground was rough and uneven, being covered with decomposed lava. We as cended on horseback until it became too steep for the horses to carry us, and then dismounted, tied them to a bush, and continued on foot. I was already uneasy as to my guides' knowledge of localities, and soon found that they were unwilling or unable to endure much fa- Vol. II.— B tigue.

Before we were half way up they disencumber ed themselves of the water-jar and provisions, and yet they lagged behind. The alcalde was a man about forty, who rode his own horse, and being a man of con sequence in the town, I could not order him to go fast er ; his associate was some ten years older, and physi cally incapable ; and seeing that they did not know any particular path, I left them and went on alone. At eleven o'clock, or three hours from the village of Nindiri, I reached the high point at which we were aiming ; and from this point I expected to look down into the crater of the volcano ; but there was no crater, and the whole surface was covered with gigantic mass es of lava, and overgrown with bushes and scrub trees. I waited till my guides came up, who told me that this was the Volcano of Masaya, and that there was nothing more to see.

The alcalde insisted that two years before he had ascended with the cura, since deceased, and a party of villagers, and they all stopped at this place. I was disappointed and dissatisfied. Directly opposite rose a high peak, which I thought, from its position, must command a view of the crater of the other volca no. I attempted to reach it by passing round the circumference of the mountain, but was obstructed by an immense chasm, and returning, struck directly across. I had no idea what I was attempting. The whole was covered with lava lying in ridges and irregular masses, the surface varying at every step, and overgrown with trees and bushes. After an hour of the hardest work I ever had in my life, I reached the point at which I aim ed, and, to my astonishment, instead of seeing the cra ter of the distant volcano, I was on the brink of another.

Among the recorded wonders of the discoveries in America, this mountain was one ; and the Spaniards, A MONKISH LEGEND. 11 who in those days never stopped half way in any mat ter that touched the imagination, called it El Infierno de Masaya, or the Hell of Masaya. The historian, in speaking of Nicaragua, says, " There are burning mountains in this province, the chief of which is Masaya, where the natives at certain times offered up maids, throwing them into it, thinking by their lives to appease the fire, that it might not destroy the country, and they went to it very chearful ;" and in another place he says, " Three leagues from the city of Masaya is a small hill, flat and round, called Masaya, being a burning Mountain, the Mouth of it being half a League in Com pass, and the Depth within it two hundred and fifty Fathoms.

There are no Trees nor Grass, but Birds build without any Disturbance from the Fire. There is another Mouth like that of a Well about a Bowshot over, the distance from which to the Fire is about a hundred and fifty Fathoms, always boiling up, and that mass of Fire often rises and gives a great Light, so that it can be seen at a considerable Distance. It moves from one Side to the other, and sometimes roars so loud that it is dreadful, yet never casts up any thing but Smoak and Flame. The Liquor never ceas ing at the Bottom, nor its Boiling, imagining the same to be Gold, F. Blase de Yniesta, of the Order of St. Dominick, and two other Spaniards, were let down into the first Mouth in two Baskets, with a Bucket made of one Piece of Iron, and a long Chain to draw up some of that fiery Matter, and know whether it was Metal.

The Chain ran a hundred and fifty Fathoms, and as soon as it came to the Fire, the Bucket melted, with some Links of the Chain, in a very short Time, and therefore they could not know what was below. They lay there that Night without any Want of Fire or Candies, and came out again in their Baskets sufficiently frighted." Either the monk, disappointed in his search for gold, had fibbed, or nature had made one of its most extraordinary changes. The crater was about a mile and a half in circumference, five or six hundred feet deep, with sides slightly sloping, and so regular in its propor tions that it seemed an artificial excavation. The bottom was level, both sides and bottom covered with grass, and it seemed an immense conical green basin. There were none of the fearful marks of a volcanic eruption ; nothing to terrify, or suggest an idea of el in fierno ; but, on the contrary, it was a scene of singular and quiet beauty.

I descended to the side of the cra ter, and walked along the edge, looking down into the area. Toward the other end was a growth of arbolitos or little trees, and in one place no grass grew, and the ground was black and loamy, like mud drying up. This was perhaps the mouth of the mysterious well that sent up the flame, which gave its light a " considerable distance," into which the Indian maidens were thrown, and which melted the monk's iron bucket. Like him, I felt curious to "know what was below;" but the sides of the crater were perpendicular. Entirely alone, and with an hour's very hard work between me and my guides, I hesitated about making any attempt to descend, but I disliked to return without. In one place, and near the black earth, the side was broken, and there were some bushes and scrub trees.

I planted my gun against a stone, tied my handkerchief around it as a signal of my whereabout, and very soon was below the level of the ground. Letting myself down by the aid of roots, bushes, and projecting stones, I descended to a scrub tree which grew out of the side about half DESCENT INTO THE CRATER. 13 way from the bottom, and below this it was a naked and perpendicular wall. It was impossible to go any farther. I was even obliged to keep on the upper side of the tree, and here I was more anxious than ever to reach the bottom ; but it was of no use. Hanging midway, impressed with the solitude and the extraordinary features of a scene upon which so few human eyes have ever rested, and the power of the great Architect who has scattered his wonderful works over the whole face of the earth, I could not but reflect, what a waste of the bounties of Providence in this favoured but miserable land !

At home this volcano would be a fortune ; with a good hotel on top, a railing round to keep children from falling in, a zigzag staircase down the sides, and a glass of iced lemonade at the bottom. Cataracts are good property with people who know how to turn them to account. Niagara and Trenton Falls pay well, and the owners of volcanoes in Central America might make money out of them by furnishing facilities to travellers. This one could probably be bought for ten dollars, and I would have given twice that sum for a rope and a man to hold it. Meanwhile, though anx ious to be at the bottom, I was casting my eyes wist fully to the top. The turning of an ankle, breaking of a branch, rolling of a stone, or a failure of strength, might put me where I should have been as hard to find as the government of Central America.

I commenced climbing up, slowly and with care, and in due time hauled myself out in safety. On my right was a full view of the broken crater of the Volcano of Nindiri. The side toward me was hurled down, and showed the whole interior of the cra ter. This the alcalde had declared inaccessible ; and partly from sheer spite against him, I worked my way to it with extreme labour and difficulty. At length, after five hours of most severe toil among the rugged heaps of lava, I descended to the place where we had left our provisions. Here I seized the calabash of water, and stood for several minutes with my face turned up to the skies, and then I began upon the alcalde and the eatables. Both he and his companion expressed their utter astonishment at what I described, and persisted in saying that they did not know of the existence of such a place.

I dwell upon this matter for the benefit of any future traveller who may go out competent and prepared to explore the interesting volcanic regions of Central America. Throughout my journey my labours were much increased by the ignorance and indifference of the people concerning the objects of interest in their im mediate neighbourhood. A few intelligent and educa ted men know of their existence as part of the history of the country, but I never met one who had visited the Volcano of Masaya ; and in the village at its foot the traveller will not obtain even the scanty information afforded in these pages. The alcalde was born near this volcano ; from boyhood had hunted stray cattle on its side, and told me that he knew every foot of the ground ; yet he stopped me short of the only object of interest, ignorant, as he said, of its existence.

Now either the alcalde lied, and was too lazy to encounter the toil which I had undergone, or he was imposing upon me. In either case he deserves a flogging, and I beg the next traveller, as a particular favour to me, to give him one. I was too indignant with the alcalde to have anything farther to do with him ; and bent upon making another attempt, on my return to the village I rode to the house of the cura, to obtain his assistance in procuring men and making other needful preparations. On the steps A BLACK PRIEST. 15 of the back piazza I saw a young negro man, in a black gown and cap, sitting by the side of a good-looking, well-dressed white woman, and, if I mistake not, dis coursing to her of other things than those connected with his priestly duties. His black reverence was by no means happy to see me.

I asked him if I could make an inn of his house, which, though it sounds somewhat free, is the set phrase for a traveller to use ; and, without rising from his seat, he said his house was small and in commodious, and that the alcalde had a good one. He was the first black priest I had seen, and the only one in the country who failed in hospitality. I must confess that I felt a strong impulse to lay the butt of a pistol over his head,; and spurring my horse so that he sprang al most upon him, I wheeled short and galloped out of the yard. With the alcalde and cura both against me, I had no chance in the village. It was nearly dark, and I returned to Masaya. My vexation was lost in a sense of overpowering fatigue. It would be impossible to repeat the severe labour of the day without an interval of rest, and there was so much difficulty in making arrangements, that I determined to mount my macho and push on.