The Mountains and Lakes of Switzerland; with descriptive sketches of other parts of the continent

Front matter

THE MOUNTAINS AND LAKES 01 SWITZERLAND ; WITH ffijcj-irrtpttrje gfczttfytii OF OTHER PARTS OF THE CONTINENT. BY MRS. BRAY, - AUTHOR OF " LETTERS FROM NORMANDY AND BR1TANNY, " ;i THE BORDERS OF THE TAMAR AND TAVY," " TRELAWNY," '( TRIALS OF THE HEART," ETC ETC. " Star of Switzerland ! thy fame Tho' recording Bards have sung, Yet be thine immortal name Inspiration to my tongue ! " Montgomery. IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: LONGMAN, ORME, BROWN, GREEN, & LONGMANS, PATERNOSTER- ROW. 1841. Printed by A. Spottiswoods, New-Street-Square.

ADVERTISEMENT.

. The first work that the writer ever ventured to lay before the public was a volume of " Letters " that she addressed to a beloved, and now, alas ! lamented mother, during a tour through Normandy, Britanny, and other parts of France. The reception that work met with in early life encouraged her to continue her pursuits in other branches of literature. In her recent journey through Swit zerland, &c, her heart, as in former years, being much with her friends at home, she made many notes of her tour, principally with a view to amuse and interest them. To her brother (taking such notes for the A AnVERTISEMENT. groundwork) she addressed the letters now laid before the public. Little, how ever, need here be said of their rise and progress, as they are stated at large in the Introductory Letter.

Letter II

Awaking in a foreign Land. — Morning of the Fete Dieu. — Start for Brussels. — Anecdote of Cantabs en route. — Ingenious Mode of tracing out a missing travelling Friend Flying View of Bruges, Ghent, and Mechlin. — Allusion to one of the Writer's former Works. — Arrival at Brussels. — The Sexagenarian's Account of the Manner of doing Things on the Belgium Chemin de Fer. — The Military. — A veritable Belgic Soldier. — The Peasantry ; their Costume and Appearance. — The Belle Vue Hotel. — The Sexagenarian's Account of a Tableau Parlant between a couple of Grisettes. — Adieu to Brussels. — A Start in the Diligence. — Carriages, Horses, and Drivers; their Characteristics. — Decorated Tails. — Orange Lilies significant. — A French Lady in the Diligence : her Remarks. — Waterloo. — The Belgium Mound and Lion criticised. — Passing the Field

Letter III

On the Road still. — Allusion to a former Journey here. — Report concerning De Coster. — The Road to Namur. — Approach to the Town. — Arrival. — Supper. — Singular Cradle for a Bottle of Wine A Bell of all Bells. — Environs of the Place. — Start in the Diligence for Metz. — Belgian Verdure. — Rysdale's Landscapes. — Little Travelling. — Road-side Wor- CONTENTS. VII At Page ship. — Images and Altars. — The French Lady, named before by the Sexagenarian, a fellow-traveller. — Arrival at La Marche. — An Attempt to sup. — The Damsel of the Inn A Night in the Diligence. — Society. — Arrival at Arlon to Breakfast. — Approach to Longwy. — Steep Ascent. — Arrival at Metz Hotel de l'Europe. — Tea-making on the Continent ; its Varieties and Difficulties 71

Letter IV

; Metz. — German Method of Sleeping. — The Town and Cathedral. — Metz the Divodurum of the Romans ; its Antiquities. — A View from the Roof of the Cathedral. — Gardens. — Houses. — The Sacristan guides the Writer's Nephew to ascend a Tower. — Visit to a Roman Aqueduct. — Start for Strasburg. — A Pair of Friends taking leave. — French Politeness. — Sunrise. — Saverne. — Magnificent View. — The Women ; Their Appearance and Costume. — Horses in the Market. — Approach to Strasburg. Arrival. — The Cathedral. — The Sexagenarian's Impressions concerning it. — His Criticism. — Curiosities. — The Sacristan's Account of its Antiquities. — High Ceremonies of former Times. — How the good Wives and little Boys of Metz were frightened in other Days. — Fur ther Account of the Interior and Exterior of the Cathedral - CONTENTS. Page 123 154

Letter V

German Cookery. — Dinners ; their Fashion. — Encounter with a Stranger at the Maison-Rouge. — Voiture recommended. — The Commissionnaire. — The Old Voiturier first introduced. — Engaged for the Journey. — A Sketch of the old Man ; his Character, and Capabilities. — Anecdotes concerning him. — Departure from Strasburg.— The Bridge. — Khel. — The Rhine. The Duchy of Baden ; its Beauty and Richness. — The Peasantry ; their Costume and Characteristics. — Stop to dine. — The old Voiturier in Trouble Journey continued. — Beautiful Country. — Mountains of the Black Forest. — Ruined Castle. — Villages, and numerous Churches. — Peculiar Fashion among the Women. — Goitre. — German Apprentices. — Population and Prosperity of the Duchy Bridges and Statues. — Sunset Beauty of the Scene. — The Black Forest. — Cathedral in sight. — Town of Friburg .

Letter VI

Friburg. — Arrival at the Zahringer Hof. — A Surprise. — The Poet of Friburg. — Sketch of his Character and Accomplishments Extracts from his Poem of " The Storm." -_ The Host and Household of the Zahringer Hof. — Queen Victoria and her Majesty's German admirers CONTENTS. IX Page 169

Letter VII

The Writer's Experience in Gothic Buildings. — Friburg in Baden. — Its Cathedral magnificent. First Impressions on seeing it. — Town of Friburg. — The Cathedral again. — Coup d'œil on entering it. — Its Windows — Altars — Service of the Virgin — calculated to impress a youthful or imaginative Mind. — Image Worship. — The Sacristan an original Character. — Survey of the noble Edifice. — Ancient Churches. — Nave. — Choir. — Aisles. — Pulpit. — Effigies. — Archbishop Bernadus Boll. — Duke Berthold. — His Armour. — Lines from Shirley. — Tombs and Monuments. — Lateral Chapels. — Altars. — Windows in the Choir. — Hans Holbein. — High Altar. — Baldung Grun's Work. — Recess. — Tabernacle-work. — Sculpture. — The Last Supper. — Windows. — Designs. — Albert Durer. — Work by Helmle. — Holbein's great Altar-piece. — The Sexagenarian's Impressions concerning the Cathedral of Friburg in Baden. — A Farewell to the Poet, the Host, and the Town -

Letter VIII

Drive to the Hollenthal. — Great Beauty of the Scenery ; its Characteristics. — Spenser ; his Lines on Trees. — Reflections on Natural Scenery connected with Religious Feeling. — The Hollenthal; its magnificence. — The Hollen- CONTENTS. X Page steig. — Prepare for the Ascent. — Vorspans. — Summit of the Hollensteig. — Distant Lake of Titi-See. — Snow on a Mountain. — Beau tiful Valley. — Effect of Lightning. — Arrival at Lenzkirch - "14

Letter IX

Housed at the little Inn of Lenzkirch. — Fille de la Maison Attempts at making Tea. — Swiss Houses ; their Peculiarities. — Goats and Cows, how lodged. — Start for Stuhlingen ■ its Castle and Situation. — German Songs. — A Bargain made. — Dinner. — Journey continued A River crossed. — Switzerland entered. — First Sight of f the Mountains, — The Rhine. — Schaffhausen. — Arrival at the Crown. - 229

Letter X

Schaffhausen. — Swiss Inns. — Their Characteristics A Landlord in Trouble consoled. — Romantic Incident. — A Swiss young Lady of Condition and her Father. — Excursion to visit the Falls of the Rhine. — An Account of the same Tower of Worth. — Glass Crucifix - 241

Letter XI

Adieu to Schaffhausen Magnificent Scenery Eglisau. — Bulach.-^ Swiss Bridges. — Zurich. — Hotel Baur. — Gessner Fuseli. — Pecu- CONTENTS. XI Page 256 275 liarities of his Genius as a Painter. — Anecdote of his William Tell. — Zurich. — The Beauty of its Situation Town, &c. — An Evening Scene on the Lake, — A Visit to the Public Library. — Curious Gothic Pictures. — Lady Jane Grey. — Lavater His Death. — Buried at Zurich. -