Through Unknown African Countries. The first expedition from Somaliland to Lake Lamu ... Illustrated

Chapter II

.Arrival at Aden — Haji Hassan — His Discreet Character — Making Contracts with my Men — Voyage to Berbera — The Start — Description of the Somalis — .An Odd Marriage Custom — Tribal Divisions — The Habr-Awal ... 6

Chapter III

Arrival at Hargesa — Cruelty to Ponies ■ — Across the Desert to Milmil — The Ogaden Somalis — Lion- Shooting — A Curious Hairless Mole — At Sessabane — Raids of the Abyssinians — Trees and Fruit — Beautiful Birds — Cruel Treatment of Old Women — Drilling the Boys — We leave Lafkei — An Annoying Plant — Meeting with Capt. C. J. Perctval — Unknown Country ahead 18

Chapter IV

Turfa Tug — Shooting Rhinoceroses — A Side-trip to the River Erer — Narrow Escape from a Rhinoceros — We are obliged to lift the Camels over Rocks — A Beautiful Valley — Impossible to cross the Erer with Camels — Return to the Caravan — Mr. Fred Gillett's Lion and Leopard Hunt — We march South to the Shebeli River — The River flooded — Dhum Palms — Great Difficulty in crossing the Webi CONTENTS. VI PAGE Shebeli — Mule caught by a Crocodile — Man drowned — A Mule and Two Ponies lost — First Footsteps in the Country of the Arusa Gallas — We capture Two Natives — News of a Town built of Stone — I discover a Small River — The Gallas are friendly 29

Chapter V

The Arusa Gallas — Galla Chiefs tell me of Abyssinian Depredations — The Country of the Arusa Gallas — A Delightful Change — Excellent Farming Lands — We meet an Abyssinian — Amusing the Inhabitants of Luku — Arrival at Sheikh Husein — Remarkable Discoveries — The Tomb of Sheikh Husein — .An Interesting Reception — We find ourselves in an Abyssinian Stronghold — Mt. Abougasin — The Height of Hospitality on the Part of an Abyssinian Officer — My Boys revolt — Cold and Rainy — Mr. Fred Gillett's Elephant Hunt — Miracles wrought by Sheikh Husein — Natives — A Kudu Drive — Summons from the Abyssinian General — Gillett starts for Ginea — A Curious Animal — Guinea- Fowl Journey to the Abyssinian Town — My Friend's Account 45

Chapter VI

The Abyssinians give me a Royal Reception — The Town of Ginea — Offers of Wives — General Wal-da-Gubbra and his Family — The Abyssinians — French Influence — I write to Emperor Menelek — An Elephant Hunt — A Great Discovery — A very Beautiful and Curious Subterranean Passage ; the Caves of Wyndlawn — Meeting the Caravan again at Sheikh Mohammed — Long Delays — An Extinct Crater — Beautiful New Bird — We can wait no longer — March to the Budda 73

Chapter VII

Surprised by the Abyssinians — The Somalis show their Mettle — A Dangerous Predicament — Emperor Menelek orders us to return the Way we came — Gloomy Prospects — Salan Mohammed — Wal-da-Gubbra not to blame — We bid good-by CONTENTS. VII PAGE to the Good Old Abyssinian General — An Amusing Request from Wal-da-Gubbra's Daughter — Marching towards So maliland again — The Hawatu and Daro Mountains — I receive a Letter from Emperor Menelek saying that he did not forbid my going through his Country — We turn south — Hopes dispelled — Wal-da-Gubbra and his Army stop us on the Laga Tug — The Expedition a Hard One — At the Shebeli River once more 97

Chapter VIII

I send to Berbera for Cloth and Letters — A Raiding Party' of Ogaden Somalis — We cross the River — A Crocodile gives us a Chill — pA Pleasant Surprise — Christmas with Prince Boris — Charged by an Oryx — I am fortunate in being able to buy Rice — Lions about — New Year's Day Notes Lions and Hyenas — A Hot Desert — African Childhood — Reports of Small-pox 109 CHAPTER IK Along the Shebeli River from Marakadudu to Bari — Daring Crocodiles — A Native Council of War — Beautiful Birds — I show a War Party of Natives the Difference between a Rifle and a Spear — We astonish the Natives — Geledi and Bari — We wait for Salan — Annoying Insects — One cannot move fast in Africa — Fishing — I hold a Clinic — Natives BECOME INSOLENT FRIGHTENED BY ROCKETS My FRIEND'S Amusing Story 123

Chapter X

Sad News for my Friend — Mr. Fred Gillett leaves for Berbera — I send out a Part of My Natural- History Collection — The Whole Camp down with Fever — Off again toward Lake Rudolf — A Case of Blackmail — Much Sickness — African Wells — Game and the Effects of Certain Rifles — Trying for Lions by Night — Among the Dagodi CONTENTS. VIII

Chapter XI. Page

Battle between Lions and Hyenas — Shooting a Lioness — Poisonous Snakes — We arrive at the River Web — The Natives flee — Marching down to the Jub — Collecting and Shooting — A Fight averted — We cross the Jub, assisted by the Adones, or Negroes — The Dagodi about the Rivers Jub and Dawa — My Afgab Guide returns to his Tribe — The Beautiful Valley of the Dawa — Photographs and Provisions damaged 144

Chapter XII

The Gere Gallas — Frightful Hurricanes — Amusing Natives — The Girls are not Bashful — Intoxicated Natives — Monkeys and Lions — Curious Fish — A Mountainous Country — Reported Lake — Shooting Waller's Gazelles — El Modu — Tame Starlings — I go on a Shooting-trip — Obliged to throw away Luxuries — My Gun-bearers : Yusif, Karsha, Aden Aoule, and Moga — Distressing Marches to Aimola — We frighten the Natives 160

Chapter XIII

I am obliged to seize Native Camels — Elephant Shooting — Waller's Gazelles — The Natives are pleased — The Sakuyu Boran — The Boran and their King, Abofilato — Elephants at Close Quarters — Charged by a Rhinoceros — In the Country of the Boran 174

Chapter XIV

The Beauties of El Dere — .Attempted Murder — The Gabbra and his Outfit — Difficult Marching — My Caravan at Night — Hawayi Somalis and Gabbra — Ancient Wells at Le — The Natives begin to act suspiciously — More Remarkable Wells — Shooting Gazelles in a Thunderstorm — Knocked insensible by Lightning — In Danger from Natives . CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XV. Page

The Boran kill one of my Boys and wound Another — Elmi avenged — An Extinct Volcano — In Danger from Abofilato's Army — Exciting Nights — The Battle — Moga killed — The Boran sue for Peace 193

Chapter XVI

A Suspicious Character — Most of my Animals returned — I determine to explore Lake Abaya — The .Aseba and Karayu (Boran) — A Cruel Practice — My Present to Abofilato — Through a Rough Country — "Old King Cole" — At Argassa — pAbofilato's Son — Shooting Ostriches, Giraffes, and other Game — Lofty Mountains — The Amara — The Death of Prince Ruspoli — I try .Amara Hospitality — An Uncomfortable Night 205

Chapter XVII

March to the Galana .Amara (River) — Shooting Rhinoceroses and Elephants — Inefficiency of Large-bore Rifles — Mosquitoes and Gendi Flies — Camp on the Galana Amara — The Work attached to Exploration ■ — A Big Elephant — I start for Lake .Abaya — Two of .my Boys wounded by an Enraged Rhinoceros — Difficulty in urging my Men to follow Me — Beautiful Lake Abaya — Much Animal Life — The Country to the North, and Theories regarding the Omo River — Many Tribes — Origin of the Galana Amara — Sport — .A Hungry Lot 221

Chapter XVIII

Return to Caravan — Night Attack by a Rhinoceros — The Amara displeased because i would not join Them in their Raid — " Time does not count " — Threatening Country ahead — Much Game — Through Dense Jungles — We find CONTENTS. X PACE some Konso People — The Camels show Signs of Poisoning from the Gendi Fly — On the Tertala Plateau Lands Forcing the Natives to trade — An Elephant among the Camels — A Boran Girl joins the Caravan — Ola finds Clothes a Nuisance 234

Chapter XIX

Lake Stephanie in Sight — The Galana Amara empties into Lake Stephanie — Side Trip to the Lake — Fishes and Birds — Shooting a Rhinoceros — Dodson and I join the Caravan by the River — The Watu — Impossible to cross the Galana — .All the way around the Lake — -I am at last successful in joining my Line of March from Berbera with that of Count Teleki made from the South — Catfish — A New Lake — A Daring Warrior — The Arbore Cornfields .... 247

Chapter XX

Trying to make Friends with the Arbore — I find Myself in a Dangerous Position, surrounded by Dancing and Yelling Warriors — Treachery — Description of the Arbore — Sounds of War — The Arbore attack our Camp — Fight in the Bushes — The Three Proud Kings — We camp near the Arbore Villages — I force the Arbore to exchange Many of their Cattle and Donkeys for Trading Goods — The last of my Mules — We visit the Burle — Ola flirts with one of my Boran Guides — The Burle or Bura — Religious Forms — Ola finds a Husband — She describes her Wedding Ceremony 257

Chapter XXI

I discover a Tribe of Undersized Men and Women — The Dume are suspicious — Description of the Dume Pygmies — Amusing Incidents — The Kuli and Other Tribes — We cannot cross the Aro Mountains — The Bunno — Exciting Times — A Difficult Ascent before us CONTENTS. XI PAGE

Chapter XXII

The Fourth of July in Africa — An Unfortunate Occurrence — Natives attempt to loot Us, using Bees as Allies — The Amar are afraid to attack Us — Two Prisoners — Wading barefooted down a River — "Sleepy Eyes" and "Zebra Hide" get into a Tight Place — Beautiful Monkeys — After wading Five Days, we leave the River 283

Chapter XXIII

Lake Rudolf in Sight at last — I indulge in a Little Sentimental Writing occasionally — Near Rusia — A Right and Left Shot — Senegal Antelopes — Lagoisi, the Masai — The Rusia are afraid of Us — A Morning's Sport — Natives in their War-paint — On Lake Rudolf — Rejoicings — The People of Rusia — - An Amusing Ceremony — I start ox a Journey to the North — Elgume Villages — Among the Murle — Murle Women badly disfigured — I get an Attack of Fever, and AM CARRIED BACK TO RuSIA 289

Chapter XXIV

A Second Attempt to journey to the North — We are cautioned AGAINST MEETING HOSTILE TRIBES L.ARGE MURLE VIL- LAGES — Wandorobbo — A Small Lake — Threatened .Attack by the Kere — Red Tape — Handsome Natives of Kere — Netting Catfish — Buki — Large Trees — Arrival at Gumba — Three Hard Days' Work marching through an Uninhabited Country without Guides — Marshes and Black Forests, Annoying Weeds and Dense Jungles 302

Chapter XXV

Expecting a Night Attack — We find Ourselves at last in a thickly Populated and Fertile Country — The Friendly and Interesting Mela — A Hundred Miles north of Lake Rudolf — Country toward the Nile and toward Abyssinia — Mount Smith — The River Nianam — A Second Tributary to the Nianam — Return Journey to Rusia — Astonishment of CONTENTS. PAGE the Gumba and Kere at seeing Us again — They beg Me to perform Miracles for Them — Back again at Rusia — Dod son's Report of his Journey in the Canvas Boat — Hyenas trapped by Dodson — Refractory Donkeys — Journey along Lake Rudolf — Tame Zebras and Hartebeests — The Elmolo — Birds and Fishes — Shooting Rhinoceroses, Hippopotami, and Water-buck — Teleki Volcano 313

Chapter XXVI

Four Sporting Adventures : Narrow Escape from an Enraged Elephant — The Rhinoceroses' Promenade — Charged by an Elephant — Shooting a Jumbo 334

Chapter XXVII

We leave Lake Rudolf to explore the Unknown Country' to the East — A Risky Undertaking — Much Suffering from Thirst — Charging Rhinoceroses wound one of my Boys and kill a Camel — Mt. Kulol, and its Desolate Surroundings — We find Water just in Time to save us from a Miserable Death — A Long March to the Rendile — The Rendile — Buying Fresh Camels — Marsabit — A Beautiful Crater-lake — "Treed" by an Elephant — Journey to Lasamis — Shooting Giraffes — An .Amusing Request from my Rendile Guide — We reach the Guaso Nyiro — Yusif seized by a Crocodile — I am obliged to amputate his Arm — Our Last Plunge into the 'Unknown — Three Bullying Rhinoceroses — Camel killed 346

Chapter XXVIII

Across a Barren Country to the Tana River — On the Equator — At last we reach the Tana — Our Joy at meeting the Rev. Robert Ormerod — A Great Change for Us — A Delightful Journey homeward — Three Hundred Miles in Canoes — Witu and Mkanumbi — Capt. A. L. Rojers — Lamu — The Last of our African Home — .An Eight Days' Sail to Aden — My Boys and I part 362 Conclusion CONTENTS. XIII APPENDICES. PAGE A. Fishes 377 B. Araneæ 386 C. Solifugæ, Scorpiones, Chilopoda, and Diplopoda .... 392 D. Lepidoptera Heterocera 408 E. Geological Collection 423 F. Fossil Cephalopoda 426 G. Ethnographical Objects 430 H. Words spoken by the Konso, Dume, and Arbore Tribes . 444 I, Coleoptera 447 J. Emperor Menelek's Letter (French Translation) . . . 455 Index LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE A. Donaldson Smith (photogravure) Frontispiece Elephant killed by the Author in 1893 3 Three of the Author's Escort, with Ostrich which had been captured and plucked by Midgans 13 Lion killed by the Author 21 Heterocephalus glaber 23 The Erer 33 Lion shot by F. Gillett 35 Group of Arusa Gallas 47 The Tomb of Sheikh Husein 53 Women of Sheikh Husein 55 Objects collected at Sheikh Husein 57—61 Lophiomys smithii 64 General Wal-da-Gubbra and Abyssinian Attendants 75 Abyssinian Knives and Mule Collar 79 A Natural Temple 85 The Caves of Wyndlawn 89 Turacus donaldsoni 95 Emperor Menelek's Letter (facsimile) 103 In Somaliland again 113 New Larks discovered by the Author — Alaudula somalica (Sharpe) . . 127 Red and white Durrha 130 Somali Knife, Spearhead, Comb, and Amulet 133 Mr. Fred Gillett 136 Lesser Kudu 141 A Wounded Lioness 147 Dagodi Sling Shot 151 Natives of Buntal, with some of the Author's Escort 154 Crossing the Jub 1 55 Three of the Author's Boys cutting out Tusks 179 The Gabbra's Outfit 183 The Wells of Le 1S7 The Fight with the Boran 201 Boran Whip 206 Boran War Feather 207 Boran Bracelets 208 Near Argassa LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

XVI PAGE Village of the Amara 217 A Pool of Water in the Tertala Mountains 241 Lake Stephanie from the Northeastern Corner 249 The First Appearance of the Arbore 259 Arbore Necklaces and Bell for Ankle 261 Arbore Pipe 262 Fight with the Arbore 267 Arbore War Hat 269 Dume Warriors 273 Dume Ornaments 275 Bunno Shield, Spear, and Arrows 280 Colobus guereza 287 Rusia Shield 296 Murle Woman ■ 300 Threatened Attack by the Kere 305 Kere Pillow and Bells for Ankles 307 Mela Ornaments 315 Mela Basket 316 Native Bridge 317 One Hundred Miles north of Lake Rudolf 321 Along the Shore of Lake Rudolf 325 Donaldsonia stenopetala and Gillettia sepalosa 329 Near Mount Longendoti 332 Narrow Escape from an Enraged Elephant 337 A Part of the Author's Collection at the University of Pennsylvania, including the Giraffe, " Camelopardalis æthiopicus," Thomas . . . . 357 Spearheads (tail-piece) 374 Clarias smithii 379 Lepidoptera Heterocera 421 Arbore War Horn, Sword, Fishing Gaff, and Staff 440 Burle Wristlet 441 fflaps. Six Maps Illustrating the Expedition to Lake Rudolf.

Chapter I. Introductory

HEN I left Philadelphia in the summer of 1893, \ V I was by no means unaccustomed to endure physi cal labor and hardship. Many a sporting trip in different parts of the world had taught me what to expect under most diverse conditions. The keen love of sport and adventure that is innate in most of the Anglo-Saxon race had always prompted me to go into the remotest corners of the earth, and I suppose it Was my seven years' medical training in America and Europe which taught me never to lose a chance of doing scientific work when it presented itself. An exploring expedition offered me an oppor tunity for gratifying all my desires and ambitions. My good friend Dr. William Lord Smith, of Massachu setts, with whom I had just been fishing and shooting in Norway, was contemplating a shooting trip in Somaliland; so I joined him, with the idea that this preliminary journey would give me the requisite knowledge of the natives and beasts of burden that I intended taking with me when I made my exploring expedition.

We had splendid sport, killing six lions, besides many elephants, rhinoceroses, and other big game. But what I valued most was that I was enabled to form my plans for my future expedition through the Galla countries to great advantage. I perceived that a journey from Berbera to Lake Rudolf would be a difficult and dangerous undertaking. The preliminary details would require the most careful study, and no expense should be spared in preparing for every possible contingency. Ever since the days of Sir Richard Burton, who first endeavored to explore the Galla countries, to the time of my expedition, attempts had been made from time to time by Europeans to pass through the country lying between Somaliland and Lake Rudolf, without success. From Captain H. G. S. Swayne I received much encourage ment.

Captain Swayne had made many expeditions in Somaliland, and on his last journey had gotten as far as Ime, on the Shebeli River, and had endeavored to go across into the Galla country. He had an escort of only forty armed men, but the Gallas would not let him enter their country because the only white men who had ever crossed their borders, Prince Ruspoli and Captain Bottego, had attacked them continually. These two Italians had gone far up the Ganana, or river Jub, taking with them large armed forces, and the Gallas had resolved to unite to prevent any other Europeans from coming among them. The greater part of the country west of the Shebeli River to Lake Rudolf was therefore a terra incognita to Europeans, except in a few instances, where very indefi nite native reports had been conveyed to residents on the coast, and to the two explorers, M. Borelli and M. D'Abadie, who had endeavored to penetrate the country from the north.

Dr. W. L. Smith and I got a little beyond Milmil on our sporting trip ; and on inquiries from Somalis I judged INTRODUCTORY. 3 that, with a well-equipped expedition travelling through the Galla countries, there would be very reasonable hopes of success, especially if patience were exercised, and every thing: done to conciliate the natives. It would be necessary to provide against little acts of treachery by taking a elephant killed by the author in 1893. substantial armed escort ; but as I hoped to succeed by conciliating the natives, and not by fighting my way, I resolved upon taking only about seventy rifles, — a number altogether inadequate to resist the natives, had they united to attack us. Returning to the coast on the ist of February, 1S94, I left orders with Mohammed Hindi, a merchant of Berbera, to buy me the best camels he could find.

I also engaged many of the Somalis we had had with us in our sporting trip. Mr. Malcome Jones, English Resident at Bulhar, and Mr. Charles McConkey, Agent of Messrs. Brown, Shipley, & Co., at Aden, very kindly offered to aid me in every way, so that when I came back in the summer I should not be obliged to delay long on the coast. On my return to England I set to work to prepare my self for doing as much work as possible from a geographical and natural-history standpoint. My expedition would be successful from a popular point of view if I could reach Lake Rudolf from the east, and join Count Teleki's line of march which he had made from the south ; but I valued the results I might obtain by their accuracy and scientific usefulness. A course of instruction given me by Mr. John Coles, Map Curator of the Royal Geographical Society, taught me the various methods of laying down my positions accurately, and many valuable hints given me by the staff of the British Museum showed me how I should obtain the best results in collecting natural-history speci mens.

I was determined to spare no expense to make my expedition as complete as possible, so I determined to en gage the services of Mr. Edward Dodson, a young English taxidermist, with the idea of his being useful in helping me to collect specimens, as well as in skinning birds. When my preparations were nearly completed, I agreed to the request of my friend, Mr. Fred Gillett, that he might accompany me, with twelve men and twenty camels, as he wished to shoot big game, and I was desirous of his com pany. The only material assistance I received was from the Royal Geographical Society in the shape of a loan of valuable instruments. These consisted of a six-inch INTRODUCTORY. 5 theodolite, sextant, and artificial horizon, boiling-point ther mometers, aneroids, and prismatic compasses. Much interest was expressed in London in my expedition, and my friends endeavored to give me their encour agement in every way ; but at the same time it was the universal opinion, both in London and Aden, that it would be impossible to enter the Galla countries, let alone to reach Lake Rudolf, with less than two or three hundred well-drilled followers. The expression of such opinions served, however, only to increase the zeal I felt in the enterprise.

Chapter II

Arrival at Aden — Haji Hassan — His Discreet Character — Making Contracts with my Men — Voyage to Berbera — The Start — Description of the Somalis — An Odd Marriage Custom — Tribal Divisions — The Habr-Awal. WE set sail from London on the ist of June, 1S94, and in eighteen days were at Aden. Almost the first boat that approached the steamer as she came to anchor contained my good friend Mr. Charles McConkey, and behind him was a grinning face I recognized at once. This peculiar, black, ugly, though amusing countenance, that seemed to be bursting with joy, belonged to a good old follower of mine named Hassan. As he had been to Mecca he was called Haji Hassan. The last time I had seen Haji Hassan was when I was leaving the wharf at Aden upon my departure for London. I could not restrain a smile at that time, for instead of the graceful folds of flowing white cloth the Somalis usually wear, Haji was ar rayed in two flannel shirts I had given him, the tails waving one above the other, while below there was nothing to cover his nakedness except a pair of thick boots.

His last words had been, " Hofficer must come back soon ; I wait for hofficer." He had picked up considerable cock ney English in Aden. It was with no slight feeling of pleasure that I saw this curious specimen of humanity once more. I had no regular head man on my previous trip, as I attended to everything in camp myself ; but Haji Hassan was so quick in noticing if anything went HAJI HASSAN. 7 wrong, and in reporting this to me, that I gave him the title of head man to please him, and he has been my friend for life ever since. Like all Somalis, he is very fond of collecting every cent and loose rag he can scrape together, but he is very careful not to make his master angry. One night when we were camped at Milmil, Haji came to my tent and tried to wake me ; he did so, however, in such a gentle fashion that I did not think that anything could be the matter, and went to sleep again.

An hour later I heard Hassan's voice in my tent once more. " Hother boy he kill him one." — "What do you mean, Haji?" I said, as I heard the word "kill." "Yes, sahib, he kill him one." And as I rose, Haji opened the tent, and showed me one of my boys lying apparently lifeless upon the ground. The poor fellow had lain there for an hour insensible in the cold, without a stitch of clothing on him, and neither Hassan nor any of the other boys had thought the affair of sufficient importance to disturb me, or to attend themselves to their fellow-countryman. My boy had been knocked down by a native as he was fetch ing water from a well, and was severely injured. I engaged Hassan as soon as he jumped on the steamer, telling him his work would be confined to looking after the boxes of natural-history specimens, and assisting Dodson.

We were scarcely landed before many of my old boys were about me, with hosts of other friends, clam oring for positions. We spent ten days hard at work at Aden, engaging men, buying cloth, brass wire, and beads for trading purposes. Provisions for the Europeans of the party, and the fancy articles for trading, ammunition, and all the rest of the impedimenta, I had shipped ahead from London. I had an agreement drawn up binding my men, in as strong a manner as I was able, to sro with me where I wished and to obey my commands, — I agreeing to pay for one month's wages in advance, and no further sum until the return of the expedition to the coast (except in certain cases where the men had families, and I arranged to pay these a small sum monthly). In case of a man's death, his heirs were to receive the money due up to the time of his death, but no more ; and any deserter would lose all claim to wages.

Lieutenant-Colonel Sealy, Political Agent for the Somali Coast at Aden, kindly had the agreements properly wit nessed, and it was impressed upon the men that any case of desertion would be severely dealt with. I bought two strong mules, as well as two ponies, Mr. Fred Gillett also securing a pony and mule for himself ; and when we left Aden, on the 29th of June, we nearly filled the miserable little steamer that was to convey us to Ber bera. Besides our fifty-five Somalis, our ponies, mules, and boxes, there were some fifty other natives with their loads of cloth, who were going back to Somaliland. I was afraid the vessel would be swamped in crossing the Gulf of Aden. It did not go directly to Berbera, but stopped first at Zeila, an old town that used to be in the possession of the Turks, and afterwards made a second stop at Bulhar ; but at neither of these places could the vessel land, and we were obliged to aro ashore in a chair carried on the backs of the natives through the breakers.

On the 1st of July we arrived at Berbera, all of us feel ing in a most depressed state from the unspeakable voyage we had had, — my poor Somali boys having been pent up like so many sheep for nearly three days. I was disappointed that more camels had not been pro cured for me ; but I found that there had been such a severe drought that caravans came rarely to Berbera, as they could procure no food for their camels. About seventy camels BERBERA — THE START. 9 were ready for me, and these were in a half-starved con dition, and were getting poorer every day they remained near the coast. It was intensely hot; the thermometer in the day-time registered noJ in the shade, while at night it would range from 95° to ioo° Fahr. Great wind storms were raging at the same time, and the blasts of hot air, carrying with them clouds of dust and sand, seemed to emanate from a fiery furnace.

All the same we were obliged to stop ten days, as we had much work to do here, buying supplies of dates and rice and ghee for my men, and dividing up the camel loads. I determined to take with me one hundred and fifty days' supply of food for my boys, in addition to my enormous stock of trading goods. The regular daily rations I allowed my boys were one pound of rice, one half-pound of dates, and two ounces of ghee, or clarified butter, per man. Forty-three camels were required to carry the native food. There were in all one hundred boxes containing copper vessels full of spirit for collecting reptiles, fishes, and batrachia ; cases for collecting birds, insects, etc. ; instruments, cartridges, a collapsi ble Berthon boat, and countless other things. It was hard work dividing up the loads and getting every man accus tomed to the various positions to which he was appointed, although Capt. L. Z. Cox — Acting Resident at Berbera — and Mrs. Cox did what they could to make our stay as agreeable as possible.

I engaged twenty-seven other men at Berbera, making a total number of eighty-two followers, including Gillett's escort of twelve riflemen. On the 10th of July we resolved to make a start, although we did not have nearly the requisite number of camels, and the number that I already had were gradually becoming weaker and weaker from the lack of proper food. I had managed to buy only eighty-four camels up to the time of starting, including the twenty that belonged to my friend, so that many of the animals were obliged to carry burdens weighing from two hundred and fifty to four hun dred pounds, whereas they should not have averaged two hundred pounds, considering there was such a long journey ahead of us. I depended upon securing camels as I went inland to replace the number that were sure to become exhausted, and to continue buying until the total number amounted to one hundred and ten strong animals.