Monaco and Monte Carlo

Front matter

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Preface

To describe the economic, social and political conditions of a country, the good will and assistance of the authorities responsible for its government must be secured.

Fortunately, a lifelong acquaintance with the Principality of Monaco has placed me in a favourable position. So far back as 1882, I was well known to the officials as collaborating with the late Doctor Pickering, in writing and publishing a small book entitled " Monaco, the Beauty Spot of the Riviera." Subsequently I was deputed to investigate various epidemics on the Riviera, notably the cholera epidemics of 1884, 1885 and 1893. The energetic denunciations and sdentific reports I then contributed to The Lancet, describing the insanitary conditions prevailing at the so-called health resorts, contributed in fio small measure to bring about the notable improvements now realised along the whole Riviera, and especially at Monaco. More recently, during the Conference of the International Association of the Medical Press, which met at Monaco in 1902, I was appointed spokesman of the eight nationalities represented. In the nam£ of the leading medical journals published by the principal nations of Europe, I had to address his Serene Highness, Prince Albert I^ and explained that we were doubly honoured. We were honoured by the regal reception and bounteous hospitality accorded to us by his Highness as Prince of Monaco. But there was a more intimate link. We attached still greater value to the privilege of being the guests of a man of science who had rendered the world service by his original research and discoveries.

In the same year I acted as interpreter from French into English and from English into French of all the speeches delivered at the International Peace Congress, likewise held in Monaco. This again brought me into personal contact with the reigning Prince. Finally, I am also indebted to the friendly support given me by Professor Charles Richet oftlie Paris Academy of Medicine. Professor Richet accompanied the Prince on one of his deep-sea exploring expeditions, and is a fellow-worker in the International Peace Movement to which Prince Albert is so earnestly attached. Such, I presume, are the principal reasons which account for the gracious reception accorded to me at the Court of Monaco, and for the fact that every assistance has been tendered me to facilitate the accomplishment of my task.

During a long audience with the Prince, I endeavoured to explain that the book I proposed to write would deal partly with past history, but more especially with modern problems. These comprised many economic, social, political and psychological subjects. Then there were the arts and sciences that could be studied with special advantage in the principality. In conclusion I inquired whether his Highness could recommend some similar work. To my surprise, and without a moment's hesitation, Prince Albert replied that there was no such book in existence. There were some excellent works, each dealing with one special subject, such as that written by the historiati, Gustave Saige, on ''Monaco: Its Origins and History." There were the reports and books on the anthropological researches and oceanographic explorations made by, or under the direct supervision of, the Prince himself. But neither in French nor any other language had any general book on Monaco been pvhlished.

A few days later I was conversing with Mr Frederic Wicht, the General Director of the Casino, and I put to him exactly the same question ; only to receire precisely the sam£ reply. Such a work as I proposed, though much needed, had never been attempted. Thei~e were doubtless hundreds, indeed thousands, of books and pamphlets on Monaco or

Monte Carlo. Some of these were obvious advertisements, others merely pocket guides ; but the majority were scurrilous sensational pubUcations issued in t/w hope of extorting blackmail. A serious study of the many problems at issue, written impartially, had not seen the light of day. If I felt the strength to grapple with such a variety of subjects tlie Directors of the Casino, as well as the Governvfient, would put at my disposal every facility.

What this meant no one can well imagine till taught by experience. To have access to headquarters for all the irformation needed is indeed a great advantage and privilege j but who could foresee that in so small a principality there would be so many headquarters ? Each of these departments has its technical chief, who naturally imagines that those who call upon him know something about his technique. My long experience as an investigator of all matters concerning the public health of many nations in Europe, Africa and America had fortunately rendered me familiar with numerous technical problems of local government, but at Monaco some of the subjects were of necessity quite new. On these occasions, I had to confess my ignorance and plead for patience and kindness so that I might be allowed to leai'n. On the high rock of Monaco we have the sciences, notably Oceanography and Anthropology. Mostly on the lower levels and down by the Condamine there are industries, such as art pottery, panification, brewing, the building of the port and its growing trade, the gas-works, the market, the scent distillery, etc. Finally, at Monte Carlo we have a haven for the fine arts, especially those connected with music and the stage. Throughout floriculture and horticulture receive the most lavish and scientific attention. Every one of these {and many other) forms of activity has its fully qualified technical chief ready to give forth a wonderful account of how his experience has been enriched by the munificent manner in which his special pursuit is encouraged and developed. In other countries, insufficient financial resources, the difficulty of making ends meet, cripple the work, and check the happy results that only need sufficient encouragement to bud forth triumphantly.

Here, on the contrary, is a small principality where, proportionately speaking, more money is speiit on local government, on pubUc works, on the promotion of original research, on the arts and sciences, than is the case in any other part of the world. This will appear the more remarkable when it is noted that it has all been done without awakening irate taxpayers or leading to the creation of a Ratepayers' Protective League. The fact is that the principality has applied with such remarkable success the principle oj " taxing the foreigner " that there is no necessity for any home tax whatsoever. It is true that indirect taxation is maintained : customs duties on tobacco, matches and stamps, exactly as in France. But this is not done for the sake of the revenue resulting, which after all amounts only to the comparatively insignificant sum of 700,000 francs. Its sole object is to prevent Monaco becoming to France what Gibraltar has been to Spain — namely, a great smuggling centre.

With the exception, then, of the small sum derived from indirect taxation, the vast revenues of the principality are obtained solely from the foreigner and the alien. Nor is tJiere any compulsion about this very convenient form of taxation. On the contrary, not only are none allowed to contribute unless they prove, with papers and passports in hand, that they are foreigners, but, it is at least the theory that if they are poor and cannot afford it, even though they are foreigners their contribution is not accepted.

No history of the principality would be complete without a very full and carefully studied account of the organisation of the casino and its gaming-tables, where, from all parts of the world, millions of people come and voluntarily risk their vioney. That they thus without murmur or question defray all the cost of local government, tlie cost of the festivals, concerts, performances, balls, sports, etc., organised, by the casino, and further yield fat dividends to the shareholders is a social, economical and psychological phenomenon of the most far-reaching significance and of absorbing interest.

What is this fascinating game, erroneously attributed to a priest, the great matJiemMician, Pascal ? What particle of truth is there in all the wild stories related ? What about the i?ifallible systems, which somehow are mainly infallible only in the regularity with which they prove failures ? To judge of these things it is necessary to examine into the details very minutely. It was only when I was introduced into the gaming saloons before they were opened to the public, witnessed how the four different functionaries appointed inspected and tested each table, when I was permitted to lift the wheel off, and see its internal structure, and make some few eccpeiiments with my own hands, that I realised how little foundation there is for the stories told about playing to defects, and controlling the results. Absolute honesty, combined with all the precision of a scientific instrument, explains the constant iifiux of speculators ready to risk their money where they know exactly what prospect of winning is before them. If so many lose, it is because so few are content with a moderate gain : and here also we have an observatory for the contemplation of human weakness and overreaching avarice. This is often accompanied by the most extraordinary, and at times very amusing, developments of absolutely unreasoning superstitions. On the other hand, mathematicians of great distinction have burned the midnight oil to study the laws of chance as illustrated by the records of the roulette-table.

It would be dull work to convert this preface into a catalogue of the subjects treated in the present volume. My only object is to eocplain how I have been able to collect the information, and what, on broad lines, is the scope of the book. Tlie great variety of important and instructive problems opened out will, I trust, awaken interest in the principality. The reader will realise that this little state has served as a laboratwy where practical legislative and other experiments have been, and are being, made, that serve as educational demonstrations for the benefit of many natioiis. Then the chief of the state also enjoys exceptional opportunities of rendering humanity inestimable serxdci. It is well known that Prince Albert I. has availed himself of his privileged position ; and on more than one occasion his unofficial and friendly intervention has contributed, at very critical moments, to preserve the peace of Europe.

The little prindpality is thus not merely the most popular pleasure resort of Europe, but a laboratory where some of the greatest problems of the day are studied and original research carried forward under very favourable conditions. This double part might be defined as — Monaco for pacific diplomacy, for scientific research and for humanitarian endeavours ; Monte Carlo for art, beauty, luxury, pleasure, extravagance and folly : such is the dual life, the dual aspect of the piincipality. The least worthy side is the best-known to the public at large. The object of this work is to make both aspects equally familiar.

ADOLPHE SMITH.

Part I Chapter

PAGE

I. THE MYTHOLOGY OF MONACO , . . 19

n. THE EARLY HISTORY OF MONACO ... 34 in. THE PRINCES OF MONACO IN THE WARS AGAINST

ENGLAND ..... 49

IV. MONACO TILL THE END OF THE SPANISH DOMINATION 67 V. MONACO FROM RICHELIEU TO THE FRENCH REVOLU- TION ...... 81

VI. MONACO DURING THE REVOLUTIONARY PERIOD . 95

Vn. THE PERIOD OF TRANSITION . . . 113

Vm. THE REVENUE OF THE PRINCE AND THE PRINCIPALITY 123

IX. THE PRINCIPLES AND POLICY OF THE PRINCE . 132

X. THE ACTION OF PRINCE ALBERT I. IN THE PRESERVA- TION OF EUROPEAN PEACE . . . 140

XI. BUILDING UP THE NEW SCIENCE OF OCEANOGRAPHY 154

Xn. INAUGURATION OF THE OCEANOGRAPHIC MUSEUM

AND INSTITUTE .... 168

Xm. THE OCEANOGRAPHIC MUSEUM . . .183

XrV. ANTHROPOLOGY : PRIMITIVE MAN IN THE PRIN- CIPALITY ..... 202 XV. THE ARCHIVES ; THE PEACE INSTITUTE ; THE PALACE

AND THE LAWS ..... 213 11

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

XVI. THE TRADES, INDUSTRIES AND NEW CONSTITUTION 222

XVn. THE POLICE ..... 235

XVm. MONACO, MEDICAL AND SANITARY . . . 244

PART II n.

in.

IV.

V.

VI.

vn. vm.

-rx.

X.

XI.

xn. viir.

XIV.

XV.

XVI.

THE ORIGIN OF ROULETTE .

GAMBLING IN ENGLAND

HOMBURG THE CRADLE OF MONTE CARLO .

EARLY HISTORY OF THE CASINO

CHARLES GARNIER AND THE MONTE CARLO THEATRE

PHENOMENAL EXPANSION OF THE CASINO .

CASINO MANAGEMENT AND GOVERNMENT CONTROL

THE CASINO AND ITS EMPLOYEES .

BEHIND THE SCENES AT ROULETTE

THE CASINO CROWD

SOME NOTABLE PLAYERS .

THE SUICIDES ....

THE CASINO GARDENS

MONTE CARLO OPERA, ORCHESTRA AND STAGE SCENERY ....

THE SPORTS ....

THE SUPERSTITIONS OF GAMBLERS

CONCLUSION ....

INDEX .....

423 438

448 468 467

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS m COLOUR

ST DEVOTE ....

ROQUEBRUNE . . .

AN OLD STREET IN MONTE CARLO

MONACO TOWN AND ROCK

THE EXTREMITY OF THE MONACO ROCK

MONTE CARLO AND MONACO FROM THE MENTONE ROAD .....

THE CONDAMINE, MONACO HARBOUR AND THE PALACE .....

MONTE CARLO FROM THE WEST

Frontispiece

Facing page 106

336 352 m BLACK AND WHITE PART I

LETTER FROM OLIVER CROMWELL

MONACO IN THE EARLY PART OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY

VILLA COLOMBE : EARLY STRUCTURES, ABOUT 1870, AT MONTE CARLO

" l'hirondelle n." ready to be'launched .

THE OCEANOGRAPHIC INSTITUTE IN PARIS THE NEOLITHODES GEIMALDI . .

118 156 176

14 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

THE ANTHROPOLOGICAL MUSEUM . . „ 206

NORTHERN TYPE OF GIANT . . . „ 208

THE CAVERNE DU PRINCE . . . „ 210

PREHISTORIC PAINTING IN THE ALTAMIRA

THE ANCIENT PALACE OF THE GRIMALDIS . „ 216

THE PRINCE TELLS THE PRESIDENT ONE OF HIS „

BEST JOKES . . . . „ 218

LIEUTENANT BOURlfeE TAKES A COLOUR PHOTO- GRAPH OF THE PRESIDENT OF THE FRENCH REPUBLIC . . . . „ 220

THE TETE DE CHIEN MOUNTAIN, THE PRINCE'S

PALACE AND THE CONDAMINE . . „ 224

FONTVIEILLE, THE INDUSTRIAL QUARTER . „ 226

CROWD AT THE CAPil DE PARIS IN MIDWINTER . „ 242

MIDWINTER SUN BATH ON THE CASINO

THE VILLA ALBERT, FOR PAYING PATIENTS, AT

THE MONACO HOSPITAL . . . „ 252

Part II George Augustus Sala At The Homburg

CROUPIERS AT MONACO WATCHING FOR THE

ARRIVAL OF PLAYERS . . . „ 800

THE FIRST CASINO AT MONTE CARLO : NORTHERN

ASPECT IN THE SIXTIES . . . „ 806

THE CASINO UP TO 1878 : SOUTHERN ASPECT,

FACING THE SEA . . . . „ 308

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

THE MONTE CARLO CASINO : BALL AND CONCERT ROOM BEFORE 1878

THE GARNIER THEATRE : VIEW FROM THE STAGE .....

EAST VIEW OF THE GARNIER THEATRE .

WEST VIEW OF THE GARNIER THEATRE .

THE GARNIER THEATRE AND THE TERRACES

CHRONOLOGICAL PLAN OF THE CASINO .

THE NEWEST AND PRIVATE PART OF THE CASINO .....

THE NOUVELLE SALLE, OR SALLE EMPIRE

GALLELl's PAINTING OF WATER .

THE HYDROPATHIC ESTABLISHMENT

" DREAMS " : A CEILING BY GALLELI

THE SALLE TOUZET ....

SECTION OF THE ROULETTE : CONSTRUCTOR'S

PHOTOGRAPHIC COPY OF THE MONACO DEATH- RATE .....,, 398

THE nSTDIARUBBER-TREE's EXAMPLE OF FILIAL

THE MEXICAN SERPENT CACTUS ATTACKING AN

AFRICAN DATE - PALM THE CHAM^ROPS

MARTIANA FROM THE HIMALAYAH . . „ 422

THE MONTE CARLO OPERA : A SCENE FROM

" IVAN THE TERRIBLE " . . . „ 432

THE BATTLE OF FLOWERS . . . „ 438

THE NAVAL BATTLE OF FLOWERS . . „ 440

THE INTERNATIONAL REGATTAS . . . „ 442

^S

Facing page

16 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

ROUGIER STARTING FOR HIS FLIGHT OVER THE MEDITERRANEAN

RECEPTION OF THE QUEENS OF BEAUTY .

THE GOLF CLUB ....

INTERNATIONAL MOTOR BOAT EXHIBITION AND COMPETITION ....

THE DOG SHOW ....

Facing page

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PAKT I

Chapter I The Mythology Of Monaco

ANTHROPOLOGY and mythology rather than history supply the earliest beginnings of our knowledge concerning Monaco and its peoples. History does not go so far back, and is certainly not more reliable. In any case, it seems as if histories that passed current half-a-century ago have to be rewritten in the light of modern critical analysis. The history of Monaco has not escaped this common fate. The old traditions have been challenged. Only that which is proved on evidence after careful examination can now be accepted. The very pedigree of Monaco's princes is exposed to the meticulous scrutiny of the modern critics, who refuse to treat tradition with unquestioning reverence. Fortunately Monaco has become a centre for the promotion of science, especially the sciences which deal with the earliest manifestations of life. Thus it does seem as if the ancient worship established on this rock is now bearing fruit. If the plankton — that is, the fine hving dust which fioats on the face of the deep — be the first or earliest manifestation of life, the materialisation of the spirit that moved on the waters, then assuredly the science of oceanography will constitute the first chapter in the history of the living world, and Monaco is now the world's chief centre for the study of this new science. Monaco is also a centre, though of less importance, for another new science which may be considered as the second chapter in the history of life. Monaco has its Arch^ological Institute, with its scholars, its explorers, its museum and its funds for the endowment of original research. Here are collected rare palaeontological treasures that disclose the ingenuity, the artistic aspirations, the modes of existence prevailing in prehistoric times. Finally, we have also at Monaco archives which are among the richest in Europe, and where a vast accumulation of original documents and state correspondence give real and interesting testimony bearing on important historical events of recent and of mediaeval times. Thus while enjoying unusual climatic advantages in the midst of beautiful scenery coupled with all the comforts of modern town life, the lover of science and history finds at Monaco exceptional facilities for study. Dividing his investigations into three parts we have first biology in the library, the laboratories, the small experimental aquaria, the large public aquarium and the palatial museum of the Oceanographic Institute : secondly prehistoric archaeology at the Anthropological Institute and Museum which, like the Oceanographic Museum, overlooks the sea and the beautiful Gardens of St Martin at Monaco : thirdly the written and printed evidence bearing on modern history now carefully stored and catalogued in the Archives of the Palace and placed under the scholarly control of Monsieur L. H. Laborde, chief archivist.

In attempting to summarise history the abundance of materials is, however, of more encumbrance than assistance ; nor dbes the fact that the Principality is a small place shorten the length of its history. There are as many days in the Monegasque calendar as in that of any other country. Indeed, the history of Monaco is in part the history of France, of Spain, of Italy and sometimes England. Its princes, who were related to the kings and princes of these countries, intrigued at the different courts and became the heroes of love adventures, notably at the courts of Versailles and of St James. Fortunately in the difficult task of abbreviating and even of omitting altogether many portions of this history there is the authority of Lenth^ric for skipping

EARLY INHABITANTS 21

over no less than five centuries. " La Provence Maritime, Ancienne et Moderne," by Charles Lenth^ric, is a learned and fascinating description or history of the natural development of the French Riviera. In his opinion positive reliable history relating to this part of the world does not begin before the sixth century. Out of the impenetrable chaos of confused legends no facts stand forth that can supply the elements of a serious discussion. All we know is that certain peoples lived here and certain other peoples periodically overran the country without actually settling and forming permanent colonies. There seems to have been a hinterland with a permanent — or, in any case, a comparatively stable — population ; and an ever-recurrent flow of traders or invaders visiting or attacking the coast-line. If this was not inscribed in history it could be deduced as a reasonable probability arising from the geographical conformation of the country. The more recent hinterland populations were of Aryan origin, consisting of Celts, otherwise called Gauls.

Before the advent of the Gaul, however, a still older race peopled the land stretching from the mouths of the Rhone to the further limits of Etruria. They were a much lower race, though hardy warriors ; small of stature but strong, active and brave. Not much is known about them, they left neither monuments nor literature, but they survived many an invasion, notably that of the Phoenician fleets. Indeed, the overcoming of this resistance has been by some regarded as having given rise to the Heraklean legends. Such myths are often more important than the bare facts of history. Whether a certain chief governed a certain tribe for a long or a short time during the first or second century matters very little to us to-day ; the further we go back the less the chronology of generals or chiefs seems to affect us. What is of interest, and still of importance, for it continues to influence our daily life, is the flow and ebb of races and peoples bringing with them certain customs and beliefs, unconsciously embodying conceptions of human and cosmic relations. In this manner have the souls of peoples been moulded and modern nations are but the children of these ancient races. It is not because we are told such a tribe defeated another tribe on a given spot and on a particular day that we shall understand the dim trend of thought and aspiration which brought about the mental and material evolution out of which we ourselves are born. Contemplating history in this manner, the myths representing the ideals and veiling the truth in the fantasy of a symbolic fable are often more fruitful and instructive than the poor and unreliable records called early history. The adventures of the gods, related as of a time when gods and men lived in close communion with each other, constitute a dramatisation that presents us with an unconsciously personated manifestation of forces arising out of economic necessity. Therefore movements of tribes and peoples striving for better conditions of life appear as the arbitrary actions of individual heroes, their eponymous ancestors, subsequently deified or at least raised to the position of superhuman " heroes."

Thus, but a short time ago, for the greatest fite and pageant ever given in the Principality, it was not a page of history the organisers invoked. The largest and also the most distinguished crowd ever assembled on the rocks and shores of the old port came to see the personification of the sun-god Herakles wage battle with the powers of darkness ; and, triumphant, install in Monaco the arts and sciences, while conferring the gift of perpetual spring. As Apollo, the sun-god, with the aid of the Muses, represents music and the arts, which are generously subsidised and encouraged in the Principality, so the Roman Hercules also was associated in Italy with the Muses. On those occasions Hercules was named Musagetes, and pictured holding a lyre. This interpretation, however, was purely Roman; there was no trace of it in Greece. To-day the muscular strength Herakles personified is superseded by the much greater force acquired through the scientific control of the elements

HERAKLES DISCOVERS MONACO 23

of nature. It is this modernised conception of strength that is studied by the government of the Principality. In deciding problems of local administration the teaching of science is more and more closely observed, and it may thus be said that by utilising the force science confers Hercules is still honoured.

It is not, however, the Grecian Herakles or the Roman Hercules who is specially connected with Monaco. The most brilliant of all public rejoicings was held in April 1910 to celebrate the inauguration of the Oceanographic Museum. The chapter dealing with this unique institution will describe the water festival. For the moment it suffices to state that this aquatic spectacle recalled the old legend according to which Monaco was founded sixteen or seventeen hundred years before the Christian era by the Phoenician Melkarth, or sun-god, born of Baal and Astarte, who were recognised at Tyre and Sidon as the father and mother of all things. Dupuis, in his great work "L'Origine de Tous les Cultes" and other eighteenth-century authorities, interpreted myths in an astronomical sense which, if considerably modified by more modern research, is not even to-day entirely superseded. According to this school man had no sooner given a soul to the world and an intelligence guiding and vivifying the various forces of nature than these were promptly represented in poems and chants as living personalities. The sun as the redeemer from the evils of winter appears to us embodied in different legends under the names of Hercules, Bacchus, Osiris, Helios, Jason, etc., etc. ; in all these myths there is a similar conception differently expressed. With Herakles the myth represented strength, primarily solar strength, then human endeavour travailing and struggling for the accomplishment of a given task. This harmonises very accurately with the legendary twelve labours of Hercules piously and fittingly painted in the galleries that surround the Court of Honour of the palace of Monaco.

The legend is sometimes appropriated bodily by a people who flatter themselves into the belief that the life history of the god as their eponymous ancestor is the history of their nation. Thus it was not the Phoenicians who came to Monaco ; it was Herakles, or Melkarth, Menouakh as they entitled their principal god. The latter word, according to I'Abbd Burgas (" Antiquitates Grecag," v., p. 2831), means that which gives asylum or rest, and this is certainly applicable to a natural harbour such as the port at Monaco. The Greeks, the Abbe maintains, erroneously interpreted the term as signifying sole occupant or inhabitant ; but certainly in the temples built to Herakles no other god was worshipped. Thus we come to the Partus Heraklis Monoeki where the Phoenicians raised a temple in which Melkarth was alone to be worshipped as the god of strength, the symbol of the sun, that dissipates darkness, gives light, life, harvest, fruit, sweetness, health and increase. According to one version the word Monaco was connected with a form of monotheism, and according to another authority with the sense of hospitality, of rest and security that a good harbour offers to the weary mariner. It may be argued that there is not much in a name, especially in this case, for, according to Varro, Hercules rejoiced in no fewer than forty-four aliases. On the other hand these forty-four Herculeses all achieved similar exploits, whether it was Hercules at Gabez or Samson at Gaza. For the most part they killed lions and procured golden apples.

It would be interesting to know during which of his twelve labours Monaco was discovered by its titular god. The legend says he conferred eternal spring on this favoured spot ; a poetical conceit, confirmed, in a measure, by the springlike climate that prevails there during the winter. The probabilities are that Herakles would be described as passing by Monaco while coasting the Mediterranean on his way to the Gardens of the Hesperides, for they were alleged to be near Mount Atlas and to the extreme west. But all along the Riviera people claim that the golden apples were none other than the oranges they

THE GOLDEN APPLES 25

grew in their gardens. Ignoring the sweet and large oranges of Jaffa, and other places close to Tyre, they imagine that the sour oranges of the French Riviera were the first and nearest that would be found by travellers coming from Tyre or Sidon. Thus the islands close to Toulon are called Les lies d'Or, because the inhabitants thought that Herakles must have found the golden apples or oranges in this neighbourhood. At the winter station of Hy^res, facing these islands, the first hotels built adopted names in keeping with this tradition. There were the Hotel des lies d'Or and the Hotel des Hesperides. Other places along the Riviera, notably the islands opposite Cannes, also claim to have provided Herakles with the golden apples he needed, Monaco alone, however, was named after Herakles and known in history as the Partus Heraklis MonceJd or Partus Herculis Monceci. But the reader may inquire was it when pursuing Geryon or when seeking for golden apples that he paused at Monaco ? On this point the myth is silent.

To-day the zodiacal sign Leo means the end of July and the first twenty-two days of August. If the year of Melkarth began in Leo, the sun has precessed through five signs since that time, so that all this must have happened some thirteen thousand years ago. Without attempting the lengthy task of describing the twelve labours of Hercules, we may take the twelfth as an example, particularly as it deals with the golden apples said to have been found on the Riviera. Dupuis, in the manner of his day, summarises the fable and compares it with the astronomical reality. It may also be noted that after his ascension into heaven, in a cloud of glory, Herakles is stated to have wedded Hebe, or eternal spring ; a detail, a later poetical version of the myth, which may have inspired the idea of associating the springlike climate of Monaco with this legend.

Thus explained, these legends lose none of their poetical value, though they have acquired a scientific interest. When armed with this knowledge, we shall see how appropriate are the frescoes depicting the labours of Hercules painted round the gallery of the Court of Honour in the palace of Monaco. They give the principal legend out of which Monaco has grown. Herakles, having secured the golden apples of Hesperides, is made immortal and marries Hebe, or eternal spring. Remembering that the gardens of the principality are worthy of comparison with the Gardens of the Hesperides, it is equally easy to admit that golden apples have been discovered. In this modern version of the classic abode where the dragon and the three nymphs known as the Hesperides were set to guard the golden apples Juno gave to Jupiter, the nymphs are to-day more numerous. The dragon still guards the golden apples and it requires the strength of Herakles to snatch any. of them away. But Herakles does not represent the foreigners who come and get into trouble with the nymphs or are devoured by the dragon. He is the titular god of Monaco; he killed the dragon and took the apples.