The adventures of Mr. Ledbury and his friend Jack Johnson ... With eighteen illustrations by John Leech

Front matter

■ THE \DVENTURES OF MR. LEDBURY AND IJts fricnfcr Hack Jolymtm. BY ALBERT SMITHj^ AUTHOR OF 'THE MARCHIONESS OF BRINVILLIERS,' ETC. ILLUSTRATED WITH TWENTY-ONE FULL-PAGE ETCHINGS ON STEEL BY JOHN LEECH. LONDON : RICHARD BENTLEY & SON, "Pu&itsljiufs in ]E>rbtnartt| to sfet* Maj.tstu tfje (Queen. 1886. Jags of torts. IFOR RED FROM THE ORIGINAL ETCHINGS BY JOHN LEECH. PAGE MR. LEDBURY'S GRAND ENTRY INTO MILAN- Frontispiece 'OH, DON'T TALK ABOUT BOILED MUTTON!' - To face io MR. LEDBURY AND JACK JOHNSON GIVE A SOIREE DANSANTE • - - „ 46 MR. LEDBURY DISTINGUISHES HIMSELF AS AN EQUESTRIAN - „ 56 JACK JOHNSON'S ATTEMPT TO RESCUE DERVAL - „ 74 THE UNINVITED GUEST - - - - 116 MR. LEDBURY'S COLD BATH - - - - „ 134 AN UNINTENDED TABLEAU - - - - „ 168 HERCULES RETURNING FROM A FANCY BALL - „ 214 JACK JOHNSON AT HIS PROFESSIONAL STUDIES - „ 232 THE FOREIGN GENTLEMAN AT THE GRAND PIANO „ 264 MR. RAWKINS'S ELECTION COMMITTEE - - „ 302 LAST APPEARANCE OF MR. RAWKINS - - - „ 334 MR. LEDBURY UP THE RHINE - - - „ 354 MASTER CRIPPS AND HIS SISTERS - 386 MR. LEDBURY ESCAPES FROM THE AUTHORITIES - „ 434 MR. LEDBURY HAS«iIS HEAD CUT OFF - - „ 44S THE LAST HAZARD - - - - - 454 MR. LEDBURY'S POLKA PARTY - - - 476 MR. LEDBURY ASTONISHES MR. BIGGS - - - „ 482 MR. LEDBURY'S AWKWARD PREDICAMENT - - „ CONTENTS.

CHAPTER PAGE I. WHICH INTRODUCES THE HEROES TO THE READER - - I II. THE JOURNEY FROM BOULOCNE TO PARIS - - 14 III. OF THE MANNER IN WHICH MR. LEDBURY WAS EXAMINED BY THE MUNICIPAL GUARD, AND OF HIS INTERVIEW WITH THE PREFECT OF POLICE - - - - - 29 IV. OF THE QUARTIER LATIN, AND MR. LEDBURY'S LODGINGS THEREIN - - - - - - * 35 V. OF THE EVENING PARTY GIVEN BY MR. LEDBURY AND JACK JOHNSON TO CERTAIN STUDENTS AND GRISETTES, AT THEIR ROOMS IN THE RUE ST. JACQUES - - - 41 VI. OF THE BOIS DE BOULOGNE, AND MR. LEDBURY'S EQUESTRIAN FEATS THEREIN - - - - - * 5° VII. OF THE BOARDING-HOUSE ON THE BOULEVARDS, AND ECARTE 59 VIII. THE WINE-SHOP IN THE MARCHE DES INNOCENS, AND THE MURDER ON THE PONT NEUF - - - - 69 IX. THE BAL MASQUE AND THE GUILLOTINE - - - 77 X. OF THE JOURNEY HOME ' - - - - - 84 XI. A FEW PARTICULARS CONCERNING MR. LEDBURY'S FAMILY - 90 XII.

JACK JOHNSON HAS AN INTERVIEW WITH A RELATIVE - 96 XIII. OF THE GRAND BALL GIVEN BY MR. LEDBURY'S FRIENDS TO CELEBRATE HIS RETURN TO HIS NATIVE LAND - 1 05 XIV. IN WHICH WE FIND JACK JOHNSON AT HOME - - 1 17 XV. OF THE ADVENTURE WHICH MR. LEDBURY, IN COMPANY WITH HIS FRIEND, MET WITH AT A PENNY-SHOW - - 1 VI C< NTENTS. CHAPTER PACK XVI. OF THE DIVERTING MANNER IN WHICH MR. LEDBURY CON CLUDED THE EVENING - - - * '31 XVII. THE ENCAMPMENT IN BURNHAM BEECHES- - * 137 XVIII. THF. FLIGHT OF JOHNSON AND MORRIS AT SAVORY'S WEIR - 143 XIX. THE NIGHT ON THE AIT - - - - - 1 5° XX. THE GRIMLEVS TRY TO CUT OUT THE LEDBURYS ; AND GET UP PRIVATE THEATRICALS - - - * '57 XXI. JACK JOHNSON PRODUCES A GREAT SENSATION AT THE PLAY - - - - - - - 162 XXII. MR. LEDBURY HAS A VALENTINE; GOES TO THE 'ANTE DILUVIANS;' AND FALLS IN LOVE - - * '73 XXIII.

Chapter I. Which Introduces The Heroes To The Reader

R. LEDBURY was a pale young gentleman of four-and-twenty, having short, light curly hair, a very smooth face, and no whiskers ; being short-sighted, and standing about five feet eleven in his improved Albert boots (' gent's new style '), and one inch less in his pumps. His acquaintances called him ' a lawyer's clerk ;' his friends said he was ' studying with a conveyancer ;' and he did not contradict it when he heard it affirmed that he was 'reading for the bar.' But he was not a regular law-student for all that. He did not reside in any of the inns of Lincoln, Gray, Clement, Furnival, or others ; he did not go to the theatres every other night ; he read law-books occasionally ; and he inclined to ginger-beer, tea, cider, and other harmless beverages that suited his mild idiosyncrasy. He rose early ; took long walks on fine afternoons to Hampstead, and other suburban ruralities ; played the flute a little ; subscribed to a knowledge-diffusing periodical ; called Harley ' a very humorous performer,' and thought Mrs. Nesbitt a ' very fas cinating actress.' Perhaps our readers will now recognise him ; indeed, we think some of them have met him before.

Mr. Ledbury resided in North Street, Theobald's Road — a colony not exactly within cry of the clubs, but withal a retired and perfectly respectable locale, supposed to have been originally found out by a gentleman too late for dinner, in the endeavour to discover a north-west passage from Bedford Row to Queen Square. The houses, as well as their occupants, are staid and solemn, wearing the air of a generation that has passed away ; the window-frames are heavy, the glass dusky, and the sparrows have pecked away the mortar from all the bricks of the chimneys. Notwithstanding the seclusion, a variety of al-fresco exhibitions constantly take place in the street to enliven the aborigines. Piano-organs love the neighbourhood ; Punch here erects his four-post theatre, and screams and riots in undisturbed mischief; and the man who does the trick with the doll has been known to visit the thoroughfare ; whilst to the feline sportsman it offers peculiar advantages, more cats appearing there at night, probably, than on any other spot in London — the streets running out of the Strand alone excepted.

It is not presumed that an evening party ever took place in North Street, beyond the mechanical one in front of an extensive musical instrument which performed there one night, and represented several couples waltzing round and round, with a very polite little figure revolving by himself, who made several rapid and convulsive bows with his comical hat whenever he faced the spectators ; and from this the inhabitants gleaned some ideas as to what an evening party was ; thinking it singular, at the same time, that at regular intervals a troop of horse-soldiers came in at one door and out at the other, all across the ball-room, which pro ceeding had certainly a strange appearance, but, without doubt, was customary in high life. The season was over/and all Mr. Ledbury's friends — for he had a very fair connection — were leaving town.

The Howards had started, per Batavier, for Langen Schwalbach ; the Briggses were located at Herne Bay ; the Chamberlaynes had been heard of in Brittany ; the Smiths had gone to Margate, and the Smythes to Naples ; — indeed, all were off to spend money, to retrench, to court publicity, or to be out of the way. Mr. Ledbury himself had dreamt of Gravesend and a cheap lodging near Windmill Hill, having suffered from a mild attack of the epidemic which seizes all our compatriots at this period, and produces the results of their experiences, during the next publishing season, under the titles of ' A Summer amongst the Boarding-houses and the Shrimps;' 'The Idler in Worthing ;' ' A Ride on a Donkey to Pegwell Bay, by a Lady;' ' Rottingdean — its Manufactures and Political Resources,' and many others of the same class.

But where to go ? was now the question, and rather difficult it was to answer — not because he was blase with having travelled everywhere, but simply because he had never been anywhere. But chance nt last determined him to the great undertaking we are about to chronicle. HIS LITTLE DINNERS IN LONDON. 3 Had Mr. Ledbury been a young man of fortune, he would have dined at a club ; as he was not, he chose an eating-house. For being, in common with man in general, naturally gregarious, he loved to feed in flocks ; and there was a restaurant in a small street near his office which he frequented, in common with many other young gentlemen of his profession. From one o'clock daily until six, joints of tempting richness smoked in the windows ; indeed, the very odour that stole out into the streets seemed to possess peculiarly nourishing powers, to judge from the hungry crowd that surrounded the premises.

In the morning, the ap pearance of the eating-house was not so tempting as at a more advanced period of the day. Strange cold joints, of unintelligible origin and extraordinary shape, were exposed to view, with the remnants of yesterday's bill of fare on small plates. Round, tough puddings, studded with plums at uncertain intervals, re posed with an air of indigestible solidity upon white and greasy earthenware dishes ; and the soup-tureens were filled with a singular coagulation resembling small pieces of fat and carrots set in dirty glue. But towards afternoon the scene was changed ; the cold joints had all departed — we believe it was never known where ; steaming legs and rounds supplied their places, and a portion of the window was partitioned off for the reception of verdant-looking mustard and cress, ornamented with rings of beet-root and sticks of celery in tasteful combination.

Mr. Ledbury was of an inquiring turn of mind. He belonged to a Literary and Scientific Institution in the neighbourhood, and, by attending all the lectures thereat delivered with unremitting regularity, had acquired that happy jumble of the various branches of Natural Philosophy which such a practice generally induces. Hence there was one circumstance in this eating-house which constantly exercised his reflective powers : the joints in the window were always hot and smoking. He never could imagine by what secret acquaintance with the power of controlling the radiation of caloric (as he termed it) this advantage was gained ; nothing short of the skill of Herr Dobler or the Wizard of the North could accomplish it. The joints not only sent up a light vapour, as hot joints generally do, but they were encompassed in a perfect cloud of steam, which, besides rising like incense when they were first placed in the oval pewter hollows formed in the window for their reception, kept on smoking all day until they were cut down to the bone ; and then the bone itself steamed away just as comfort ably as if it still had its full complement of meat.

Nay, when the bone itself had disappeared, the vapour ascended just the same from the spot it had occupied, as furiously as from the plumi — puddings of gigantic dimensions, whilom used in pantomimic banquets, to the great admiration of the little boys in dilapidated envelopes who clustered round the window, and pointed out to each other what they should like to have. There was a gentleman of a very vivacious turn of mind, who constantly dined at this eating-house, at the same table, and about the same hour that Mr. Ledbury visited it. He was commonly known as 'Jack Johnson '—no one ever presuming to add ' Mr.' to the appellation ; and he was just the sort of person you would imagine an everybody's Jack Johnson to be. He could play singlestick, make punch, slang coal-heavers, drive hack-cabs, and sing comic songs, better than anybody else in London.

There was not a night-tavern at which he was not as well known as the head-waiter or the glee-singing chairman. He could always get orders for any of the theatres. He was seen one night at an evening party in Bryanstone Square, and the next at a shilling ball at the Lowther Rooms; at one time he might be spied out in the gallery at Covent Garden, and at another in the stage-box ; on Monday, eating Beignets des Peches at Very's; on Wednesday, discussing haricot mutton at Berthollini's ; and on Friday dining from alamode beef in Holborn — and all with the same relish. In fact, he was one of those extraordinary conglomerations of antithetical attributes constantly turning up in the great world, like the water-rockets at the Surrey Zoological Gardens — sparkling about for a space of time in ex treme brilliancy, anon disappearing for an equal period from all observation, and then coming up again at a place where they were never expected, and flourishing about as lively and eccentric as ever.

Mr. Ledbury was on terms of intimate acquaintance with Jack Johnson, although the two were as different in their dispositions as a bottle of champagne and a tin of Devonshire cream, and they always enjoyed a little conversation when they met, Mr. Ledbury usually commencing by a few mild meteorological observations, which Jack Johnson generally replied to by asking his opinion of things in general, and the Romans in particular — questions, it must be admitted, certainly involving much theory and ingenious speculation. ' It's very hot,' observed Mr. Ledbury, one warm day towards the end of August, as he seated himself at the accustomed table. ' Uncommonly,' said Johnson, ' and so is this cold meat — I mean to cut it soon. Where do you think of going ?' ' I had an idea of visiting Gravesend,' gently replied Ledbury. ' Ugh !' said Mr. Johnson, expressing disgust, ' don't go there.

HIS FRIEND J A CK JOHNSON. 5 Nasty place — swarms with hot clerks — bad bathing, too — neither fresh nor salt, but a dash of both.' ' But they say the living is cheap there.' 'Oh! gammon!' was the energetic reply. 'You get over done with shrimps — nothing else to be had at times, upon my honour ! Shrimps for breakfast, dinner, and tea — potted shrimps, shrimp-puddings, shrimp-soup — the very pastrycooks make their tarts of shrimp-jam, and think nothing so fine as shrimp-ices.' ' How very odd !' observed Mr. Ledbury. ' I never heard that before.' 'Fact, sir!' continued Jack. 'Why don't you go to France? I'm going, and anywhere else chance may take me. Suppose you come, too.' Mr. Ledbury was a little aghast — the thought of a continental tour had never entered his head in his wildest dreams of travel.

He inquired : ' Will it not be very expensive ?' ' Oh no,' answered Jack. ' I know Paris very well. Things are as cheap as dirt there, if you know where to buy them. Velvet hats sixpence apiece, kid gloves four sous (that's twopence), and glazed boots half-a-crown a pair; lodgings five shillings a month.' ' That certainly is very reasonable,' said Mr. Ledbury. ' I should think, though, that the lodgings are not very great things at that rate.' ' They are jolly comfortable, though,' answered Jack. ' They let you keep dogs in them, and rabbits, and — in fact, anything you like.' ' I have read about Paris in the guide-books.' ' Ah ! I should think so. Guide-books are collections of lies half bound in cloth, to deceive travellers. You never find much in them to be of service. Take Mrs. Starke with you, follow her directions, and see where they will lead you — that's all.' Mr. Ledbury, not having a very clear idea as to who Mrs. Starke was, relapsed into silence. ' Paris is a perpetual holiday,' continued Mr. Johnson ; ' a large tub of fun always running over.' ' But I don't know the language very well.' ' Oh ! you'll learn it quickly.

Go to the balls, and dance with the grisettes : they'll teach you soon enough.' ' What's a grisette ?' inquired Mr. Ledbury. ' Oh ! plummy ! I believe you,' replied Johnson, winking his eye and finishing his pint of stout. 'A grisette is a French translation of a Pantheon stall-girl, with a dash of the milliner, and an occasional sprinkling of the washerwoman and Cranbournc Alley bonnet-seller.' ' What a singular mixture ! How I should like to sec one !' Mr. Ledbury's curiosity was evidently excited ; and Jack Johnson, who knew Paris very well, and really wanted a companion, painted such glowing pictures of life in the French capital, that after a little persuasion he contrived to talk over Mr. Ledbury to accompany him. In the course of a few days everything was arranged for their departure, and Jack did not shave any more, but allowed his mustachios to grow as they liked — which pro ceeding appears to be actually incumbent upon everybody going to France ; and Mr. Ledbury, under his directions, procured a flimsy piece of paper, called a passport, from the ambassador in Poland Street, after a pleasant sojourn of three hours in a back -parlour, amongst the queerest lot of people possible to conceive.

We have obtained a sight of this document, and now place the copy of a portion of it before our readers, feeling assured that they will be thankful for the portrait of our traveller therein drawn forth. The steam-packets Yvhich leave London Remarques. for the various parts of the Continent have an eccentric and highly-diverting priisemd aux^ P^an °f abjuring the stated and regular autoritds compdtentes. times of departure adopted by most of their contemporaries to Herne Bay and Ramsgate, leaving at all sorts of uncom- Taille de 5 pieds 10 pouces fortable hours, at their own discretion, Anglais. generally ranging between midnight and Cheveux4 3.nS'. blonds. six a.m. Accordingly, when they had fixed Front . . . ord. the day for starting, they ascertained that YeuxCllS '. ' .' grif' the Emerald, wh;ch was to transport them Nez .... retrousse1, to Boulogne, would leave London at four VisaT ' ' Zuale in the morning ; whereupon Jack Johnson Teint .... pdle. intimated that it was all nonsense going to bed, and that they had better enjoy themselves instead — going to bed at any time having been, in Jack's ideas, from time immemorial an unnecessary and painful infliction.

Hereat, the went to they theatre, and subsequently drank much brandy and water, and did eat many broiled ON BOARD THE 'EMERALD! 7 kidneys, until, as the chimes of St. Magnus struck a quarter to four, they found themselves in Thames Street, close to the wharf at whose side the Emerald was lying preparatory to departure. Although it wanted an hour to sunrise, yet there was a tolerable share of bustle in the neighbourhood of the quay. Trucks were discharging their contents on the floating platform below, pas sengers were arriving, and lights passing backwards and forwards in the cabin-windows showed that they were alive and moving on board ; whilst a stream of vapour, visible in the light of the lamps on the bridge, was rising from the spare steam-funnel, and breaking into occasional whiffs as the paddle-wheels sullenly turned a stroke or two backwards and forwards, like a musician indulging in a few notes and runs to himself that he may ascertain all is right before commencing some great perform ance.

At length the bell rang for the non -voyagers to go on shore ; the last arrival of passengers and luggage had been stowed aw'ay in their proper places, and, the ropes being loosened, the Emerald moved from the wharf, throwing the water from her paddle-boxes in slow and distinct turns. It was still dusk ; and the reflection from the fires on board the ships in the Pool, and at the edge of the wharfs, quivered in long lines upon the surface of the river, only broken by the occasional passage of some heavy craft taking early advantage of the tide. Ponderous market-carts were rumbling over London Bridge, and a coach or two coming from the up-mail-trains of the railway, crossed it in the direction of the City, laden with passengers, who, en sconced up to their eyes in shawls, coats, and comforters, vainly endeavoured to entice back a small portion of the slumber which they had left behind at the terminus.

But sleep is a sad flirt — the moment you wish for her company she deserts you ; whilst, on the other hand, if you are really anxious to keep awake, she will be sure to force herself on you whether you will or not. It was rather cold ; so as soon as the boat was fairly off, Mr. Ledbury accompanied his Mentor down into the fore-cabin, where they had determined to go ; Jack Johnson observing that it was some shillings cheaper, and that when they had once paid their passage-money, they could migrate where they liked ; and here they deposited themselves with tolerable comfort, amongst some boxes and carpet-bags ; for as a damp drizzling mist was falling, there was no great inducement to go upon deck, except for those directly concerned in the management of the vessel ; and they had enough to do, keeping a sharp look-out, to prevent her coming in contact with the number of barges now thronging up the river.

Lights had been suspended from the bowsprit and mast-head, and were now struggling ineffectually with the dull grey of an autumnal morning ; whilst the only token to those below that they were on the alert overhead, was an occasional 'Ease her!' 'Stop her!' 'Half a turn a head!' ' Go on !' as obstacles rose in the way of the packet, or dis appeared. The Emerald moved on amidst the crowd of steamers, lighters, colliers, and ships from every part of the world, that bordered the space allotted to the water-thoroughfare ; or, as it has been termed, in allusion to the unceasing shouting of coal-heavers and swearing of bargemen, 'the silent highway.' The docks, ware houses, churches, and manufacturing chimneys receded as the pace was quickened on gaining a clearer road. The outlines of Greenwich Hospital faded in the distance, and were soon sup planted by the flat, uninteresting shores which border the river beyond this point. ' There's Blackwall !' ejaculated Johnson, looking out through one of the glazed port-holes that form the cabin-windows. ' Many a prime dinner I have had at the Brunswick, after fourpenn'orth of rope on the rail.

Do you like whitebait ?' ' I never tasted it,' replied Ledbury. ' What is it like ?' ' Nothing else in the world — little fish, with large eyes and no bones, dried in flour, and drowned in cold punch — ah !' ' And when is the proper time for it ?' ' June, sir — the balmy month of June. After that they get out of season — that means, the minnows and little dace get in by mistake — no go, then — brown bread and tittlebats.' As they approached Gravesend the preparation of breakfast commenced, and the clinking of the cups and saucers had some what of a comfortable sound, inducing them to make a tolerable meal, under the combined influence of inclination and principle. Inclination because they were favourably disposed towards the shrimps and cold meat ; and principle, because they were told a roughish passage was anticipated ; and should this prove true, it was as well not to allow the stomach to contract upon its empty self — a proceeding of that organ which is occasionally acutely painful.

When they had concluded their breakfast, they ascended upon deck, and beguiled the time with talking, smoking, and drinking bottled stout, until they arrived off Margate, where they took some people on board. HIS SUFFERINGS AT SEA. 9 Up to this point of the journey everything had been tolerably quiet ; but on approaching the Foreland the first sensations of qualmishness became apparent. The passengers began to retire to the cabins, and compose themselves in dark corners of the same. Others, who could not bear the close atmosphere, wrapped them selves up, and stretched out their limbs upon the stools upon deck, whilst a third party seated themselves in a row along the lee-side of the vessel, to be in readiness for anything chance might bring about. The waves increased in size, and the packet accordingly rose and fell in proportion.

Steward's boys were seen hurrying about, with glasses of cold brandy-and-water, and solitary biscuits on cheese-plates; and occasionally a mop was lowered by a string into the boiling ocean ; or a basin, caught by the wind, now and then performed a journey from one end of the deck to the other, all by itself. Of course, there were several upon whom the motion of the vessel had very little effect ; and first and foremost amongst these fortunate individuals was Jack Johnson, who had seated himself upon the roof of the cabin-entrance, in company with an apparently interminable bottle of Guinness', watching the invalids, and making sundry pleasant remarks upon things in general to Mr. Ledbury, who felt particularly queer, but was endeavouring to make himself believe that he was perfectly well. ' I wonder,' observed Jack Johnson, as he stuck the stout-bottle into the pocket of his pea-coat, to keep it from rolling away, ' I wonder why stewards of steam-boats are always fat, and have all got curly hair.' ' I don't know,' replied Mr. Ledbury ; ' unless constantly being near the fire plumps them up, like cooks and wild ducks.' ' I rather imagine,' continued Johnson, ' that they pick up flesh from living perpetually amongst hot oil and boiled mutton.' 'Oh! don't talk anything about boiled mutton!' said Led bury, with an air of disgust, and looking like an animated turnip. ' With respect to their curly hair,' Johnson remarked, ' I cannot offer a theory, unless it be that all their Yvhiskers grow on the top of their heads instead of down their cheeks !' There was a wild attempt on the part of the steward to establish dinner about one o'clock ; but the sea was too rough to allow of such a proceeding; nor was the atmosphere of the cabin sufficiently attractive to tempt anyone down.

Our friends, therefore, had some sandwiches on deck ; and, to do Mr. Ledbury justice, he behaved remarkably well, for the-wind was dead against them, and the sea so turbulent, that at one time the captain had thoughts of going into Ramsgate harbour for the night. About three o'clock it came on to rain, and Ledbury and his companion nestled under the tarpaulin of some woolsacks upon deck ; where, under the combined influence of the stout, the wind, and the rambles of the previous night, they soon fell asleep. Neither the noise upon deck, the dashing of the waves, the motion of the boat, nor the straining and creaking of her timbers as she laboured through the boiling sea, disturbed them ; and they dozed away comfortably until an unusual bustle aroused them from their visions, and they found they were close to the entrance of Boulogne harbour.

The Emerald rolled through the surf on the bar, and in a few minutes came into the comparatively still water between the two barricades of piles which stretch into the sea on either side of the harbour. The bustle on deck consequent upon each passenger endeavouring to pick out his own carpet-bag from amidst one hundred and fifty others, all alike and undirected, aroused our tourists, and they now began to look about them. ' Bless me !' cried Mr. Ledbury, gazing at a figure at the end of the pier, in a pepper-and-salt great-coat, 'there's a French soldier. I wonder what he wears red trousers for ?' ' Because the English wear red coats,' said Johnson. ' You will see everything in France is by the rule of contrary. We take the left side in driving — they take the right ; we pay when we get out of a 'bus — they pay upon getting in ; we call a pawn broker " my uncle " — they call him " ma tante ;" English washer women put the linen into tubs — French ones get into the tubs themselves, and wash the linen in the river.' As the steamer at length stopped at the port, and the plank bridge was thrust out for the passengers to land, a confusion of voices arose, to which the 'gabble for the million' that caused the great strike amongst the masons of the Tower of Babel was per fect tranquillity.

A chain was stretched along the pier, to keep off the crowd, and oblige the travellers to pass through the Douane ; and this was thronged, like the ropes of a race-course. by the noisy touters from the various hotels, leaning over, and offering the cards of their respective establishments, with the assurance that each was superior to the other. To keep them quiet, Johnson promised every one of them individually that he would make a point of coming to their hotel ; and Mr. Led bury received all their cards with extreme affability, thanking them severally for their attention, and regarding them with mild benignity. "Mr / O^^^z/A' Ji S tr S 1SS6 lonaon.Bicliara. B mtLey, 1842 . HIS FIRST WALK IN FRANCE. 11 Having pushed forward with the crowd through the gates of the custom-house, they were severally searched — an ordeal which awakened much honest indignation in the breast of Jack Johnson; who finally relieved his wrath by pointing to his Wellingtons, and recommending the custom-house officers to detain them, hinting that as one had caused them so much uneasiness at Waterloo, probably two would be doubly annoying.

A similar playful allusion to the Bluchers of Mr. Ledbury, who appeared rather nervous during the inquisition, was also indulged in ; and then, as they emerged from the Douane, they found all the touters waiting for them. It was only by dint of sheer personal strength, and a few liberal and thoroughly British oaths, that Mr. Johnson preserved himself and his companion from being torn into divers pieces, and carried in divisions to the various hotels with which Boulogne abounds ; there being on an average, by the latest statistics, one house and a half to every single visitor who arrives there. Acting upon the contradictory axiom that the dearest hotels are by far the cheaper, they determined upon putting up at the Hotel du Nord ; the commissioner whereof promised to clear their luggage in time for them to get everything that night ; and then they strolled out into the town to inquire after the diligences, and look about them.