Rambles in Egypt and Candia, with details of the military power and resources of those countries, and observations on the government, policy, and commercial system of Mohammed Ali

Preface

Egypt has for many years past furnish ed such constant occupation to the printing presses of — I believe it may be said — all literary Europe, and given employment to the pens of so many authors of acknowledged talents and learning, that the publication of a light work on that country would certainly, under ordinary circumstances, subject its writer to the charge of presumption. Such, however, since the re-appearance of that an cient kingdom in the political world, is the interest attached to every thing relating to it, that, even though the harvest of the antiquary should be considered as satisfactorily got in and shelved, yet a gleaning of matters deemed unworthy of falling under the sickles of my

PREFACE.

. IV numerous scientific precursors may not prove unacceptable to the public at large. Indeed, I am disposed to think that a work on Egypt is at this moment likely to meet with greater favour in the eyes of the generality of readers, from the very circumstance of its professing to describe that country as it is, rather than as it has been. Whilst, therefore, the following pages will be found to contain but little to arrest the at tention of the antiquary or savant ; yet, finding it impossible to leave the stupendous works of the ancients altogether unnoticed ; I have, at the risk of wearying my readers with an oft-told tale, ventured on a brief description of those that came under my observation ; and, in some few instances — when struck by any omission or inaccuracy in preceding writers — have even been induced to enter into a some what detailed account of them. To many, it may appear strange that any thing new could possibly be written of matters which have been so fully and repeatedly

PREFACE.

. V described, and yet more extraordinary that errors should have remained unnoticed for so many successive ages. I confess that on setting out for the land of Misraim, I entertained the notion that the constant passage of travellers over the same track must needs have worn it into a wide, well-defined road; and conceived that by committing Herodotus to my portmanteau, and to my memory as much of modern authors as it was capable of containing, I could not possibly miss my way, even in the Egyptian labyrinth. I soon found, however, that most of the ancient finger-posts I had calculated upon to direct my steps were turned sadly awry, whilst many of the mile-stones, new and old, gave awfully long measure — and it may not be out of place here to observe, that, whilst the marvellous tales of Herodotus have always been implicitly believed, the statements of the en terprizing Bruce have, until very lately, been considered as bordering on the fabulous. On some points, therefore, connected with the tra- VOL. i. a VI

PREFACE.

. ditional history of Egypt, I have ventured to re-enter the protest of my countryman against conclusions which seem to have been admitted by the moderns, without sufficiently weighing the testimony of the ancients, on whose authority they rest. With respect to young Egypt, such was the discrepancy of opinion amongst recent writers, that it was obvious by close, unprejudiced observation alone could any idea be formed of the impulse given to the march of civilization ; for, whilst by some, the changes which have of late years been effected in that country are spoken of in the most exalted terms of praise ; by others, they are con demned as mere innovations, tending to no possible good : and, whilst the former main tain that, touched by Promethean fire, Egypt has started into a new life of civilization, the latter describe it as a country plunged in the lowest depths of misery, and governed by the most revolting tyranny. Both these state ments are equally distant from the truth ;

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. VII having been dictated by self-interest in the one case — by prejudice in the other. That Egypt is making rapid advances towards civilization will not admit of dispute; but there is yet much to be done ere she can take rank as an enlightened nation. That the ruler of Egypt is a despot, and the inhabitants mere serfs, chained to the land, are also facts beyond the power of contradiction ; but that Mohammed Ali is a sanguinary tyrant, and that he has involved the Egyp tians in greater misery than they before endured, are assertions that have been ha zarded without due reflection. It has been my endeavour to place those overcharged pictures in a more subdued and correct light — to describe the country as it really is, without, on the one hand, permitting my feelings as an Englishman to carry me into the abuse of every thing that is not in strict accordance with our notions of what it should be — nor, on the other, suffering the great good that certainly has been effected by the a2

PREFACE.

. VIII present ruler of Egypt to lead me into admiration of such of his actions as are of an un justifiable nature. As regards the improved state ofthe country — though I did not, as I had been led to expect, find a Diligence grinding down a mac adamised road between Cairo and Alexandria ; nor the streets of those cities subjected to the "omnibus nuisance" — neither that " Gin Palaces " had been opened to facilitate the conversion of Mohammedans, and Penny Magazines published in Arabic for the diffusion of useful knowledge — yet I soon became sensible that, thanks to Mohammed Ali's tyranny, a Christian's head was now as safe on his shoulders in Cairo as in London — his purse safer in his pocket — that he was neither despised for his religion, nor ridiculed for his dress ; but, on the contrary, was invariably treated with respect — that, without any out ward check upon vice, it was less apparent in the streets of the Egyptian metropolis than in those of most European cities. In fine, it

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. IX appeared to me that the people — well disposed by nature — had rather been weaned from their vices and prejudices, by a growing sense of the advantages of civilization, than forced into compliance with an order of things, so totally at variance with all their former habits and preconceived notions. I have dwelt with some stress, as well on the changes which have been effected in Egypt by the new institutions established by Mo hammed Ali, as on those which must event ually be brought about, if his system be per severed in ; for these changes cannot but lead to very important results, not only as regards the future well-being of Egypt herself, but as they will affect the commercial ties by which other nations are connected with her; and these changes having been brought about by the influence of a power hitherto, I may say, unknown in the annals of Egypt — namely, a native military force — warrants, in some measure, one of that profession presenting him self, as a commentator—if not on the results X

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. that have followed its introduction — at all events, on the probable stability of institu tions depending upon its maintenance — whose very existence, indeed, hangs upon its sup port. On the subject of Candia, little has been written since that interesting island passed from the rule of the Sultan to that of the Viceroy of Egypt ; a transfer which seems to have suggested itself to the great Euro pean Powers, as the only expedient for allay ing their own mutual jealousies — thus, by common consent, placing this most valuable possession in the custody of the only power that could neither confer benefit upon nor derive advantage from it. The unpretending title of my work will, I trust, save it from any very severe literary criticism. From the ordeal of political cri ticism, which has of late years obtained, it would be in vain to expect exemption ; since even the Rambler, in describing some vene rable pile that has withstood the storms and •

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. XI tempests of ages, or the modern lath and plaster edifice, which every gust of wind shakes to the foundation, can scarcely escape the accusation of tinging his picture with a Conservative or levelling colouring. The Author, therefore, who ventures to comment on the government and institutions of a country, cannot but pass the Rubicon of politics, and must expect to find himself between the " Caudinœ furculœ" of Whig and Tory Reviewers. If, following the plan of the old man in the fable, he attempt to please both parties, he is sure, like him, to satisfy neither. I have not made any such vain attempt ; but, convinced of the importance of the subject to my own country — however erroneous my views of it may be considered — have, at the risk of giving offence to both sides, fearlessly written what I think ; and it strikes me that the policy of Great Britain in the affairs of the East continues still to be — what for many years past it has been — to wait for events, rather than to anticipate them.

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. I hope that the various errors, which I have taken the liberty of pointing out in the ac counts of preceding writers, will not give offence ; most of them must either be mere errors of the press, or have arisen from in attention to calligraphy, in keeping their journals. Monsieur Rifaud, for instance, must doubtless have been conscious that the base of the great pyramid of Ghizeh is not " un triangle equilateral." I trust that my readers will be equally indulgent, in making allowance for the mistakes into which I, per adventure, may have fallen, from my " pen cillings" not having always been written with " H. B.'s" — I mean with the indelible touches of Messrs. Brookman and Langdon's hard black leads ; nor with the spirited chalk ofthe inimitable political sketcher, whose graphic pencil is given but to few.

There are some of my readers who, I fear, will not readily pardon my " little faith" in the authority of ancient writers, and scep ticism of the doctrines broached by the mo-

PREFACE.

. derns. To such I must plead the excuse of a malformation of the cranium, which, besides exhibiting a sad deficiency in the protube rance of veneration, is marked with but very slight undulations of the imaginative organs. That of self-esteem is not, however, so exces sively manifested, as to make me declare " ce n'est que moi qui aie toujours raison." ILLUSTRATIONS. VOLUME I. Page Portrait of Ibrahim Pasha, frontispiece. View of Alexandria 18 View of the Pyramids of Ghizeh 210 VOL. II. View of the Port of Candia, frontispiece. Grand Temple at Karnac 9 View of Mount Ida, and Convent of Asomatos Plan of the Ruins of the Temples at Karnac 283 CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I

English Travellers bound to Egypt — Dread of Cholera at Malta — Voyage to Alexandria — Tempestuous Weather — Miseries on Board — Superstition — A Catholic Skipper — Monotonous Fare — First View of the Egyptian Coast — Unpleasant Discovery — Pompey's Pillar — Fleet of Mohammed Ali — Arrival at Alexandria — Picturesque Appearance of the City — Extensive Commerce — Wretched Streets — Motley Population — Extent and Situation of Alexandria — The Peninsula of Pharos — Commanding Fortresses — The Walls described — Scene of Desolation — The Buildings and Shops — Ships in the Harbour — Cleopatra's Needle — The Celebrated Alexandrian Museum . . Page 1

Chapter II

Ruins of Ancient Alexandria — The Catacombs — Cleopatra's Needle and Pompey's Pillar — Monuments Mutilated by Travellers — The Naval Arsenal Described — Structure of the Egyptian Ships — Strength of the Navy — Visit on Board a Three Decker — Description of the Ship — Naval Discipline — Flogging — Familiarity between Officers and Sailors — Their Dress, Pay, &c. — Montouch Pacha — Suggestions for Improvements on the CONTENTS. Egyptian Navy — Palace of the Viceroy — His Seraglio — Garrison of Alexandria — The Lazaretto — Ravages of the Plague — Delightful Environs — Society and Amusements . . 26

Chapter III

Preparations for Travelling in the Delta — Choice of a Dress — Dragoman — Egyptian Money — Road to Rosetta — Canopic branch of the Nile — Dreary Journey — Description of the City of Rosetta — The Market — Fruits — Fortifications — Account of the Cotton Manufactories — The Tannery — The Viceregal Smithy — Rice Mills — Decadence of the Trade of Rosetta — Gun-boats — Barracks — Voyage up the Nile — Friendly Reception by the Sheik of Mehalet Abou Ali — Village of Kafr Majar — Scenery of the River . . ■ * . , .49

Chapter IV

Arrival at Kafr Zayad — Interview with the Governor — Travelling Miseries — Fair at Biar — Journey across the Delta — Inhabitants of the Country — Situation of Birmeh — Road to Tantah — Some Account of that Place — Dancing Girls — Fairs — Mehalet el Kebeer — Canal of Samanoud — Description of the Town of Samanoud — View of Damietta — Village of Sumaoieh — Houses of Damietta— Trade of the City — Mixed Population — Visit to the Governor — The Cotton Manufactory — Defences of the River — Lazaretto — Signor Serur, H. B. M.'s Vice-consul . . 74

Chapter V

Lake Menzaleh — Quantity of Wild Fowl — Fisheries — Arrival at Matarieh — Canal of Moez — Swampy Islands — San — Ruins of Zoan — Camel Drivers — Journey to Salehieh — Description of the Town — Difficulty of Procuring Animals for continuing the Journey — Deceit ofthe Sheik, and distrustful Character of the Inhabitants — Efficacious armed Invention — Journey to Cairo continued — Sandy Tract of Country — Village of El Kherene — Civility of the Sheik el Belled . . . .97 CONTENTS. XVII

Chapter VI

Journey continued — New Line of Road — Swampy Country — Village of Esneke — Ras el Wadi — Town of Belbeis — Canal to Cairo — Arrival at Zoahmeh — Dispute with the Camel Drivers — Situation of El Hankah — Imposing View of Cairo — Celebrated Battle-field — Village of El Mergh — Approach to Cairo — Suburban Annoyances—Metropolitan Dangers — Different Modes of Journeying from Cairo to Alexandria — Voyage back to the latter City — The Mahmoudieh Uanal — Present [State of the Delta — Its Productions — Cultivation — Cattle — The Arab Population — Beauty of the Women — Food of the Fellahs — Character of the Inhabitants . . . . . . .118

Chapter VII

Old Cairo — Its reputedAntiquity — Description ofthe City of Cairo — Its Walls and Districts — Narrowness of the Streets — El Esbekieh —Appearance of the Houses — Mosques — Markets and Bazaars — Donkey Riding in the Streets — The Slave Market — Excellence of the Police — Conduct of the Franks — Immense Population — Costume adopted by Europeans — Sect of St. Simonians — Situation of the Citadel— The New Mosque — Joseph's Well — The Mint — Coinage of Egypt — Fortifications — Military Arsenal — Cannon Foundries] — Small-arm Manufactories — Wages of the Artificers — Annual supply of Fire Arms . . . 147

Chapter VIII

Busy Scene at Boulak — Galloway Bey— The Cotton Factories- Power Looms — Steam Engine— Use of Printed Goods in Egypt— The Copper Mill — Presentation to Mohammed Ali — Anecdote relative to the Viceroy — His Palace — His Person described — His Dress — Conversation — Refreshments — The Presence Chamber — Russian and Tuscan Consuls— Unceremonious Visit of a Polish Refugee— Surprise of the Viceroy— Pretended Petition— Sensation in the Ante-chamber —Animated Scene on leaving the Palace . • ..... CONTENTS.

Chapter IX

Visit to the Mosques at Cairo — Excitement produced amongst the Faithful by the Author's Presence — Prison of the Maniacs — Maniac Saints — Festival of the Beiram — Religious Procession — Sepulchres ofthe Mameluke Sultans — Country Palace at Shoubrah — Ruins of Heliopolis — Holy Sycamore and Miraculous Well — Description of Ibrahim Pasha's Palace — Island of Rhodah — The Nileometer — Tombs of the Mameluke Beys — Quarries of the Mo kattan Hill — View from its Summit — General Remarks on Cairo — Nuisances in the City — Fabulous Imprisonments — Want of So ciety, &c. — Celebrated Magician of Western Africa — Specimens of his Art . . . . . . . 188

Chapter X

Pyramids of Ghizeh — Discrepancy of Opinion respecting them — Doubts as to the Correctness of the Order iu which they are usually stated to have been Erected — Remarks upon them — Inaccuracies and Exaggerations of Herodotus — Comparative Statement of the Dimensions assigned to the Great Pyramid by various Writers ....... 225

Chapter XI

Departure from Cairo — Voyage up the Nile — Duties of '• Dick," the Arab — Cure for Indolence — Adverse Winds on the River Labour of the Boatmen — Village of Mitraheeneh — Description of the Colossal Statue discovered by Cavijjlia — Supposition respecting it — Site of Memphis — Conquests of the City — Ruins at Sakara Character and Habits of the Fellahs — Remarks on the Pyramid of Sakara — A Visit to the Interior — Aspect of the Country Encroachments of the Sands — The Pyramids of Dashour . 246

Chapter XII

Etwal — Description of the Pyramid of Ereekeh — Its peculiar Construction — Bahr Yousef — Bridges — Prosperity of the City of CONTENTS. XIX Benisouef — Cavalry Horses — Brick Pyramid of Illaoum — Beau tiful View — Productiveness of the Province of Fayoum — Lake Mæris of Herodotus — Voyage up the Nile continued — Pictu resque Situation of Abounour Malateeh — Samalout — Town of Minieh — Benihassen — Description of the Tombs there, and Remarks of Monsieur Champollion's Account of them — Sugar Manufactory at Ereramoun — Process of Clarifying the Sugar — Distillation of Rum — Town of Melawi — Aspect of the Country . . . . . . .262

Chapter XIII

Tedious rate of Progressing — Mountains of Abou Ifoddeh — Slumbering Crocodiles — Town of Manfalout — Description of the City of Siout — The Governor's Palace — The Slave Market — Price of Provisions — Canals of Souhadj and Yousef serve as barriers against the Sandy Desert — Siroc Wind — Ruins at Gau el Kebeer — Tribe of Bedouins — Poverty of Girgeh — Errors as to Distance — Remarkable Change in the Inhabitants — Mode of levying Taxes — Excuses of Tenants — Potteries at Kheneh — Flourishing State of the Town — Kindness of Sheik Hassan — Voyage continued — Edfou — Hagar, or Gibel Silsilis — Remains of Temples — Extensive Quarries — Fabulous Chain — Precipitous Cliffs — Scenery along the Nile — Arrival at Assouan . . 284

Chapter XIV

Old Town of Assouan — Ruins of Two Temples — Roman Pier — Quarries of Rose-coloured Granite — Huge unfinished Obelisk — Column described by Belzoni — Island of Philoe — Arab Village — Sale of Slaves — Account of the Four ruined Temples at Philoe — Rocky Islands — The celebrated Cataracts — Feat of an Arab — Terrestrial Paradise — Persons and Manners of the Elephantine Nymphs — Ruined Convent of St. George — Sterile Tract of Country — Deserted Town pf Koum Ombos — Peculiarity in the plan of tlie Temple — Arrival at Edfou .... XX CONTENTS.

Chapter XV

Description of the Grand Temple of Edfou — Mud-built Village — Perilous Visit to the Interior of the Temple — Colossal Figures on the exterior Walls — Ruins of Elythia — Opinion of Dr. Richardson — Antiquity of the Walls — Supposed Remains of a City — Tombs and Catacombs — Small Temple — Excavated Rock — Remains at Esneh — Opinions of Denon and Champollion — Site of Contra Laton — Ancient Hermonthis — Ruined Temples — Remarks on Egyptian Hieroglyphics — Arrival at Luxor . . ERRATA VOL. I Page xii., line 17, fPreface) for •« nor" read " not." ' 24 14, (Note) for " Amron" read " Amroa. " ' 34 " 21, for " eighty" read " eight." " 85 " 2, for " tents" read " huts." — " 9, for " coutinuing" read " continues." '•119 " " (Note) for "Chapter X." read " Chapter III. vol. ii." " 129 " 17, insert "been" before " commenced."

"206 " 17, after " scarabei" insert a comma." " 243 " l.omit " as." 256 " 21, insert "is" before " strewed. " 271 " 2, for " for but" read " but for." 272 " 1, for " studia" read " stadia." 290 " 19, omit "themselves." " 298 " 14, omit "at Siout" and place tho comma in the next line after " Kheneh." "313 " 9, for " bay-salt" read " basalt." " 314 ' 16, and elsewhere throughout the work, read " Propylon" for " Propylæon." " 320 " 22, and elsewhere, for " groupe" read " group. " VOL. II. Page 28, line 11, for " no part" read " no profit." " 50 " 7, for " equally uninteresting" read " equally as uninteresting as the other." " 98 " 8, for " wall" read " well." 108 " 12, insert a comma after " well being" instead of the full point. 123 " 22, for " Sultan" read " Viceroy." 168 " 17, for " a single one thing" read " one single thing." 309 " 6, for " which terminates in" read " and, at its termination stands." 327 " 10, and in several other places, for " Capo d'lstrias" read " Capo d 'Istria." RAMBLES IN EGYPT AND CANDIA.

Chapter I

English Travellers bound to Egypt — Dread of Cholera at Malta — Voyage to Alexandria — Tempestuous Weather — Miseries on Board — Superstition — A Catholic Skipper — Monotonous Fare — First View of the Egyptian Coast — Unpleasant Discovery — Pompey's Pillar — Fleet of Mohammed Ali — Arrival at Alexandria — Picturesque Appearance of the City — Extensive Commerce — Wretched Streets — Motley Population — Extent and Situation of Alexandria — The Peninsula of Pharos — Commanding Fortresses — The Walls described — Scene of Desolation — The Buildings and Shops — Ships in the Harbour — Cleopatra's Needle — The Celebrated Alexandrian Museum. English travellers proceeding to Egypt have generally selected Malta as the point for " taking their final departure" from the shores of Europe, La Valetta appearing to VOL. i. b FEAR OF THE CHOLERA. offer more readily the means of forwarding them to their destination than any conti nental port, as well as of supplying them with the store of comforts considered indi s pensable for those who purpose exposing j; themselves to the hardships of a nomadic li. so- Acting somewhat under this delusion, I r si paired to Malta in the winter of 1833-4.

L could not have arrived at a more unluck-y period, for the authorities were labouring under extravagant apprehensions of cholera ; and the steamer that conveyed me from Gib raltar had been but three weeks on its pas sage from England, where the disease was then prevalent. Lest, therefore, the horrible malady should have shut itself up in the portmanteaus and carpet-bags of my fellow passengers, we were all doomed to incarcera tion in the Lazaretto for fourteen days ; and, during that period, our effects were exposed to the diurnal gaze of an old Maltese " Guar dian," who finally pronounced that he could discover nothing like cholera about them. On our return to the world after this fort- VESSELS TO ALEXANDRIA. 3 night's moral burking, I proceeded without loss of time to the main harbour to examine the different vessels about to sail for Alex andria, of which, through the media of a mercantile friend, fire, sulphur, and a pair of tongs, I had succeeded in obtaining a list during my imprisonment.

The intercourse between Malta and Alex andria, at no season very brisk, is in the winter extremely dull. I found two vessels only presenting " peculiarly eligible opportunities" for proceeding to the Egyptian port. One, a brig that having just completed her cargo of coal-tar, stock-fish, bar-iron, and " sundries," was only waiting for a trifling addition of some hundreds of Maltese chairs and tables that were to go as deck-passengers. The other, a Polacca, laden with blocks of building stone, was advertised to sail " all next week." I made choice of the lighter vessel, and added myself and luggage to the " general cargo." The recent establishment of a monthly communication by steam between Malta and b2 MALTESE TRADER. Egypt relieves travellers just now from the embarrassing choice of evils to which I was subjected ; but, having some doubt of the success of this government experiment, (at all events for some years to come, when, and not before, it may be expected to answer, i. e. to pay), and thinking it probable that it may not be persevered in, if found to continue a " losing concern," I shall, with a charitable feeling towards those wanderers who may (should my forebodings prove true) have to follow in my track, give a short account of my voyage, by which some notion may be formed of the disagreeables that are to be encountered on board a Maltese trader, be sides the odour of coal-tar and stock-fish.

It may not be out of place here to observe, however, that from subsequent experi ence I found opportunities for Alexandria are much more frequent from the ports of Nau plia, Trieste, Leghorn, and Marseilles, than from La Valetta, (indeed, from the two first named, packets sail regularly at stated periods), and that the ships used in the Egyp- LA VALETTA. 5 tian trade at those ports are superior in every respect to the Maltese. The traveller from England, by journeying, therefore, to any one of those points, avoids the long sea voyage round Cape St. Vincent, and the risk of con tracting a liver complaint in the Lazaretto of La Valetta. The vessel in which I had engaged a berth bore the imposing name of the " Gran Bret tagna," and, on payment of a dollar, I was permitted to embark on board the Mistress of the Ocean.

This pitiful tax is levied on persons of all nations and conditions, who, either from business or over-baking, have occasion to leave the " little military hot house." The weather, calm and cloudless as we sailed slowly out of the beautiful harbour of La Va letta, soon afterwards became wet and tempes tuous ; and, for four days and nights, our little vessel was tossed to and fro by a sea that, excepting in the Gulf of Lyons, I scarcely ex pected to have encountered in the Mediter ranean, and which completely drenched every TEMPEST AT SEA. thing that was not under hatches. Fortu nately, myself and two friends had secured the main-cabin for our own use, where, speaking by comparison, we were tolerably free from inconvenience on the score of salt water. The rest of the vessel, crowded with thirty five passengers of all sorts, besides a numerous crew, presented a picture of misery hardly to be conceived by any one who has not witnessed the desagremens experienced on board a transport that has been hurried off to sea, with decks yet encumbered with unstowed sea stock, sick soldiers' wives, squall ing children, washing-tubs, and medical com forts.

Our "patron," a stanch Romanist — as most Maltese are — implored St. Antonio and all the protectors of salt water travellers to intercede for us and allay the fury of the pitiless element. Finding his prayers un availing, he told me, in accents of despair, that he greatly feared the inclemency of the weather and obduracy of the saints were occasioned by his having been so imprudent AMERICAN MISSIONARY. 7 as to receive an American Methodist Mission ary on board. This gentleman, with his wife and attendant, was snugly boxed up in a " state cabin " six feet by four, and totally un conscious of danger, and was flattering himself with the hope (the wind being perfectly fair) of a speedy termination to this maritime pur gatory. I ventured to hint to the Miletan skipper that it was possible this good man might be intended as a St. Paul for the Egyptians ; to which he replied only by a scowl at myself, implying that he thought there were too many of us English heretics on board to warrant his indulging in the hope of the good brig reaching her destined port in safety.

As a kind of counterspell, I presume, to our heresy, the main cabin was decorated with a portrait of the especial protectrice of his vessel — Notre Dame de la Garde de Mar seilles — on whose lachrymose countenance a lamp was constantly shedding its pale light, excepting when (as sometimes would happen) the cabin boy, whose duty it was to officiate FARE ON BOARD. as priest, neglected to supply the votive oil. On such unlucky occasions, the culprit " Smitche" was most unmercifully cuffed or kicked, according as the irritated and Catho lic skipper's fists or toes came most readily in contact with his recreant body. In other respects, our patron was a placable tobacco loving personage, and seemed to trust entirely to the ship's log, and N. D. de la Garde, to bring us sooner or later to our destination.