Travels in Palestine and Syria ... Illustrated with maps and plans

Preface

. " Tout homme doit au public le tribut de son activity, et devrait s'efforcer de laisser quelque trace honorable de son existence." The Author of the present volumes, after passing the summer of the year 1828 amidst the most beautiful provinces of Spain, and the winter of the same year in the south of Italy, was induced by an ac cidental solicitation of friendship, to visit the Ionian Islands in the spring of 1829. But the vicinity of these islands to Conti nental Greece, the Peloponnesus, and the Archipelago held out temptations, for a more extended gratification of his curiosity, too strong to be resisted. He yielded ;

PREFACE.

. and having had the unexpected good for tune of traversing these regions of beauty and of desolation without encountering a single hinderance, or once experiencing a moment's uneasiness, either for the safety of his person or his purse, this success im boldened him to look, with an aspiring eye, and high hopes, towards the more interest ing countries lying deeper in the East, for the visiting of which he prepared himself during the winter months he spent at Smyrna. Accordingly in the early part of the following year (1830) he embarked for Egypt by the first opportunity which presented itself, where his excursions up the Nile ex tended to the Second Cataract. On his return to the shores of the Mediterranean, he crossed the sea from Damietta to Jaffa ; and having visited the whole of Syria and Palestine, including the countries lying east of the Jordan and the Anti-Libanus, wintered in Aleppo. In the spring and summer of 1831, he wandered over the

PREFACE.

. V more interesting parts of Asia Minor and reached Constantinople in the fall of the same year. In 1832 he returned home to western Europe by way of Adrianople, Salonica, Thessaly, and Athens, entering the port of Ancona the 29th of May, 1832 ; " — longæ finis chartæque viæque" — an exact cycle of three years having re volved since he embarked, on the very same day, from Otranto for Corfu. Such is the brief outline of a tour, dilat ing itself from an intended period of a few weeks to as many years, and undertaken originally with no other object in view than that of gratifying personal curiosity. The author can, indeed, with sincerity disclaim ever having entertained the remotest notion of putting in type his notes and observations at the time he made them ; confessing with cheerfulness, that however much he may have travelled for his own amusement and instruction, he esteems his own quali fications in many ways inadequate, towards furnishing proper data for the solution or VI

PREFACE.

. elucidation of questions, which concern in a higher degree the Geographer and Ar chaiologist. His sole object in publishing the present volumes has been the desire of being use ful to society, by imparting, in a simple and imbodied form, his own direct and personal observations and notices of coun tries, which lie buried at present under the works of a hundred authors ; and it will be found that very few travellers have made so complete and extensive a tour of the Levant as it has happened to himself to have done. For this reason, too, as well as the specific and undigressive style in which the narration is carried on, the author is imboldened to think, his work will not be without great convenience to those upon actual travel : well remember ing the grievous encumbrance of huge volumes, as references on the way, which he humbly considers are much better con sulted in the seclusion of a library, than on the high road from Jerusalem to Damascus.

PREFACE.

. VII With respect to the subject-matter of the work, no one can be more fully aware of its simple and unpretending qualities, than the author himself; who is prepared to incur blame and objection from many, for being silent, where there existed so much to enkindle the imagination, and where so many opportunities were given for discursive speculations upon political and religious questions of the very highest character. To all this charge he pleads guilty ; for, indeed, it could not but have been thought presumption, with his feeble perception of the finer forms of the Beauti ful in nature, to have followed in the same golden track as that of the first poetical genius of France ; and therefore has he confined himself, not without self-denial and effort, in recording alone those scenes and things which were immediately under his eye, and which stood in the most simple objective relation to his mind.

He has purposely avoided giving the colouring of his own opinions and impressions to PREEACE. VIII what he has described, wishing rather to be only a passive instrument in conveying an exact transcript of what he saw, to the minds of his readers. The work, on these accounts, will be found to be for the most part of a topographical character, the dif ferent localities being considered, some times in reference to their former state, sometimes to their capabilities for the future, and occasionally in reference to the mention of them in the Scriptures. This is all that the author judges fit to lay before his readers, who, he hopes, when they consider how easy it is to em bellish and exaggerate for the excitement of wonder, and how difficult is the por traiture of simple and naked truth, will not think him unreasonable in deprecating too severe a judgment upon himself, and upon what he has done.

Paris, August, 1836. 40, Rue St. Lazare. CONTENTS OF PALESTINE. CHAPTER t. Introduction — Names, Divisions, and Boundaries of the Holy Land ........ 1

Chapter II

Departure from Damietta — Mouth of the Nile — Passage of the Boghaz — At sea — Our Vessel — Passengers on Board— Arrival off the Coast of Syria — Jaffa — Yabne — Ekron — Ashdod — Askelon — Gaza — Gath — El-Arish ■ — Setting out for the Holy City — Caravan of Pilgrims — Plain of Sharon — Ramla — Hospitium — Ruins in the Neighbourhood — Journey by night to Jerusalem — Adventure — Halt at a Military Station . . .10

CHAPTER 111.

Route to Jerusalem, continued — Karict-el-Aaneb — Abou Ghosh — Terebinthian Vale — Approach to Jerusalem — First View of the City — Arrival at Jerusalem — Franciscan Convent — Terra Santa Establishments — Meeting with M. de Breuvery — Death ofa travelling companion — Church of the Resurrection — Calvary — The Holy Sepulchre 33

Chapter IV

Route to Jericho — Bethany — Tomb of Lazarus — Fountain of the Apostles —Scene of the Parable of the Good Samaritan — Mount of Temptation — Fountain of Elisha — Jericho — Night Scene — The Dead Sea — The Jordan — The Wilderness of Engedi — Return to Jerusalem 54 b VOL. I. X CONTENTS.

Chapter V

Topography of Jerusalem— Gate of Damascus— Suburb of Bezetha— Cave of Jeremiah— Prophecies concerning the City— Tombs of the Kings— Tombs of the Judges — Prophecies concerning the Jews— Valley of Kedron — Pool of Bethesda— Pretorium of Pilate— The Dolorous Way— Visit to the Mutzellim— Mosque of Omar —Site of Solomon's Temple .... 80

Chapter VI

Topography of Jerusalem continued— Greek Convent — Castle of David— Armenian Convent — House of Annas—Mount Zion— Tomb of David— Church of the Cœnaculum— House of Caiaphas — Christian Burial-ground — Valley of Gihon— Hill of Evil Council- Tombs of the City of David— Gehenna — Aceldama, or Field of Blood— Judas— Well of Nehemiah— Prophecies concerning Zion ...... 95

Chapter VII

Topography of Jerusalem continued — Public Buildings — Hebrew Architecture — Baths — Bazaar, or Street of Shops — Dulness of the other quarters — Population ot Jerusalem — Harat-el-Yahoud, or Jews' Quarter — Their Houses and Synagogues — Visit to the Khakham, or Chief Rabbi — State of the Jews in Jerusalem— Stones ofthe ancient Temple 110

Chapter VIII

Topography of Jerusalem concluded — Brook Kedron — Garden of Gethsemane — Tomb of the Blessed Virgin — Mount of Olives — Panoramic View ofthe City — Church of the Ascension — Valley of Jehoshaphat — Tombs of the Modern Jews — Tombs of the Patriarchs — Mount of Offence — Village of Siloam — Pool of Siloam — A Night spent in the Holy Sepulchre — Chamber of Antiquities , . . . . ' . CONTENTS. XI

Chapter IX

Set out for Bethlehem — Valley os Rephaim, or the Giant's Valley — Appearance of the Country — Mar Elias — Star of the Magi — House of Simeon the Just — Tomb of Rachel — Rama, and the Holy Innocents — First View of Bethlehem — Arrival at the Convent of St. John — View from the Terrace — Village of Bethlehem — Church of Santa Maria — The Grot of the Nativity — Excursion to the Pools of Solomon — Country lying to the southward of them — Return to Bethlehem 138

Chapter X

Departure from Jerusalem — Taking Leave of the Friars — Last Promenade round the City — The Jerusalem of the Scriptures — The Modern City — Route to Nazareth by Nablous described — Shechem, or Sychar — Mounts Ebal and Gerizim — Nablous — Jacob's Well — Sabousta, the ancient Samaria — Djenin, the ancient Jezreel — Convents of St. John in the Desert and of the Holy Cross — Former Fertility of Judæa — Its present Aspect — Lydda — Tomb of St. George — Return to Ramla — Evening spent with Padre Tomaso . . 158

Chapter XI

Embark for Acre — Features of the Coast — Apollonia — Antipatris — Kanah, or Brook of Reeds — Kaiserieh, the ancient Cæsarea — Tortura, the ancient Dora — Castel Pellegrino — Caipha, the ancient Calamon — The River Kishon — Mount Carmel — Convent of the Carmelites — Arrival at Acre — Abdallah Pacha — Panoramic View of the Town — Mode of constructing Terraces — Route to Nazareth — The River Belus — Halting place — Total Eclipse of the Moon — Arrival at Nazareth . .187 CONTENTS.

Chapter XII

Route to Mount Tabor— Ascent of the Mountain- View from its Summit — Mount Hermon — Nain — En-Dor— Plain of Esdraelon— Plain of Saphet— Excessive Heat — Take Shelter under a ruined Bridge over the Jordan — Bysan, or Scythopolis — Mount Gilboa — The Lake of Gennesareth— Ride along its Shores — Hot Springs — Tiberias — Jews in Tiberias — Szaffaad — Threshing-floors— Mount of Beatitudes — Fertility of Galilee — Cana — Return to Nazareth . . 210

Chapter XIII

Return to the Coast — Route from Nazareth to Acre — Saffura, or Zippor — Plain and Town of Zebulon — Vale of Abilene — Arrival at Acre — Salute from the Batteries — Latin Convent — Departure for Tyre — Route along the Coast northward — Zib — Ladder of Tyrus — Ras-cl-Abiad, or White Promontory — Ancient Phœnicia — Ras-el-Ayn — Ancient Tyre — Modern Town of Tsur 240

Chapter XIV

Route to Sidon — Tyrian Dye — Nahr Kasmia, or Casamiah — - Beautiful Ruin — Khan by the Sea-side — Sarepta — Turkish Cemetery — Professional Mourners — Sidon, or Tsaida — Mar-Elias, the residence of Lady Hester Stanhope — Route to Beirout — The Prophet Jonas and the Monster Fish— River Tamyras — Vineyards of Damour— Plantations of White Mulberry-trees — Grove of Stone Pines— Arrival at Beirout . 202 Appendix PALESTINE AND SYRIA. PALESTINE.

Chapter I

Introduction — Names, Divisions, and Boundaries of the Holy Land. Having completed my visit to those inte resting countries, Egypt and Greece, the cradle and nursery of the arts and sciences, as well as of those institutions which all civilized .nations are now enjoying the fruits of in common; I became desirous of seeing the Land of Israel, — a country which, during two and three thousand years, was the only section of the earth where the worship of the true God was per petuated : the Holy Land, in fine, — the birth place of that religion, "which pure from the lips of its Author, and the pen of his apostles," VOL,. I. B is calculated to diffuse universal happiness, ameliorate the condition, and perfect the nature of man.* This country has in different ages been called by various names,f which have been derived either from its inhabitants, or from the extra ordinary circumstances attached to it.

In the sacred volume it is more particularly called, 1. The Land of Canaan; from Canaan, the youngest son of Ham, and grandson of Noah, who settled here after the confusion of Babel, and divided the country amongst his eleven children, each of whom became the head of a numerous tribe, that ultimately became a distinct nation. (Gen. x. 15, et seq.) 2. The Land of Israel ;± from the Israel- * See Appendix, No. 1. f The author deems it not inopportune at this stage of his Journal to refresh the memory of some of his readers by laying before them a succinct explanation of the names, divisions, boundaries, and inhabitants of the countries it purposes to treat of. In this resumed sketch, he has made use of the authority of the Rev. Thomas Hartwell Home, in his " Introduction to the Critical Study and Knowledge of the Scriptures."

X The whole world was divided by the ancient Jews into two general parts, the " Land of Israel," and the " Land out of Israel," that is, all the countries inhabited by the nations of the world," or the Gentiles. ites, or posterity of Jacob, having settled them selves there. 3. The Land of Jehovah, or the Lord's Land. (See Hos. ix. 3 — Deut. xxx. 20 — and Lev. xxv. 23.) 4. The Land of Promise ; from the pro mise made by Jehovah to Abraham, that his posterity should possess it ; who being Hebrews, this region was thence called the " Land of the Hebrews/'* 5. The Holy Land; which appellation is to this day conferred on it by all Christians, because it was chosen by God to be the imme diate seat of his worship, and was consecrated by the presence, actions, miracles, discourses, and sufferings of the Lord Jesus Christ ; and also because it was the residence of the holy patriarchs, prophets, and apostles. 6.

The Land of Judah. Under this ap pellation, was at first comprised only that part of the region which was allotted to the tribe of * So called from the patriarch Abraham, surnamed the Hebrew, from his having passed over the Euphrates into the land of Canaan. After the Exodus from Egypt, they were generally called Israelites, and, on their return from the Babylonish captivity, they were denominated Jews, from the tribe of Judah, the most considerable of the twelve tribes. B Judah. In subsequent times, when that tribe excelled all the others in dignity, the whole of Israel appears to have been called Judah or Judæa. After the separation of the tribes, that portion of the land which belonged to the tribes of Judah and Benjamin, who formed a separate kingdom, was distinguished by the appellation of the " Land of Judah" or of Judea, which last name the whole country retained during the existence of the second temple, and under the dominion of the Romans. 7- The appellation of Palestine, by which the whole land appears to have been called in the days of Moses, is derived from the Philis tines, a people who migrated from Egypt, and, having expelled the aboriginal inhabitants, settled on the borders of the Mediterranean, where they became so considerable as to give their name to the whole country, though they, in fact, possessed only a small part of it.

The Limits of the Holy Land have been variously stated ; but from the latest and most accurate maps, it appears to have extended nearly two hundred miles in length, and to have been about eighty miles in breadth about the middle, and ten or fifteen, more or less, where it widens or contracts. By the Abrahamic covenant, the origins grant of the Promised Land to the Israelites was from the " river of Egypt unto the river Euphrates." Its precise " boundaries," de clared to Moses by the God of Israel, are de scribed in Gen. xv. 18, with all the accuracy of an eye-witness. Of this region, however, the Israelites were not put into immediate posses sion. It was not until the reign of Solomon that the covenant was realized to its full extent. On the conquest of Canaan by the children of Israel, Joshua divided it into twelve parts, which the twelve tribes drew by lot, according to their families.

In this division of the land into twelve portions, the posterity of Ephraim and Manasseh (the two sons of Jo seph) had their portions as distinct tribes, in consequence of Jacob's having adopted them. The " northern" parts of the country were al lotted to the tribes of Asher, Naphthali, Zebu lon, and Issachar — the " middle" parts to that of Ephraim, and one half of the tribe of Ma nasseh : the " southern" parts to those of Judah, Benjamin, Dan, and Simeon ; and the " country beyond Jordan" (which was first conquered by the Israelites before the subjuga tion of the whole land of Canaan) was allotted to the tribe of Reuben, Gad, and the other half tribe of Manasseh. The tribe of Reuben obtained the southern parts, the tribe of Gad the centre, and the half tribe of Manasseh the northern part.

The tribe of Levi indeed (which formed in effect a thirteenth tribe) possessed no lands. By divine command there were assigned to the Levites, who were appointed to minister in holy things, without any secular incum brance, the tenths and first-fruits of the estates of their brethren. The next remarkable division was made by King Solomon, who divided the kingdom he had received from his father David into twelve provinces or districts, each under a peculiar officer. The Euphrates was the " eastern" boundary of his dominions, the Philistines were " westward" on the Mediterranean sea, and Egypt was on the " south." He had therefore for his tributaries, the kingdoms of Syria, Da mascus, Moab, and Ammon ; and thus he appears to have possessed all the land which God covenanted with Abraham to give to his posterity.

But this was only " a splendid pa renthesis" in the historic page ofthe Israelites. After the death of Solomon, ten tribes revolted from his son Rehoboam, and erected themselves into a separate kingdom under Jeroboam, called the Kingdom of Israel. The two other tribes of Benjamin and Judah, continuing faith ful to Rehoboam, formed the Kingdom of Judah. This kingdom comprised all the southern parts of the land, consisting of the allot ments of these two tribes, together with so much of the territories of Dan and Simeon as were intermixed with that of Judah. Its royal city or metropolis was Jerusalem, in the tribe of Benjamin. The kingdom of Israel included all the northern and middle parts of the land, occupied by the other ten tribes, and its capital was Samaria, in the tribe of Ephraim. But this division ceased, on the subversion of the kingdom of Israel by Shalmaneser, king of As syria, after it had subsisted two hundred and fifty-four years.

The Holy Land fell successively into the hands of the Syrian Kings, the Greeks and Romans. In the time of Jesus Christ it was divided into five separate provinces, viz. Galilee, Samaria, Judæa, Peræa, and Idumæa. Galilee comprised the country formerly inhabited by the tribes of Issachar, Naphthali, and Asher, and by part of the tribe of Dan, and was divided into Upper and Lower. Samaria included the tract of country which was originally occupied by the two tribes of Ephraim and Manasseh within Jordan, lying exactly in the middle between Judæa and Ga lilee. Judæa comprised the territories which for merly belonged to the tribes of Judah, Benja min, Simeon, and to part of the tribe of Dan, being nearly coextensive with the ancient kingdom of Judah. The district of Peræa comprised the six cantons of Abilene, Trachonitis, Ituræa, Gaulo nitis, Batanæa, and Peræa, strictly so called, to which some geographers have added Decapolis.

The province of Idumæa was added by the Romans on their conquest of Palestine. It comprised the extreme southern part of Judæa, together with some part of Arabia. Under the Romans, Palestine was depen dent on the government of Syria, and, about the commencement of the fifth century, was divided into three parts ; viz. : — 1. Palœstina Prima comprised the ancient regions of Judæa and Samaria. 2. Palœstina Secunda included the ancient districts of Gahlee and Trachonitis. 3. Palœstina Tertia, or Salutaris, comprised the ancient Peræa and Idumæa. In the modern divisions of this part of the Turkish government, Palestine has not formed a distinct country, but has always been included in Sham or Syria. This latter pro vince has hitherto been divided into pachalics or governments, bearing the names of Acre, Tripoli, Aleppo, and Damascus — but as their extent usually increased or diminished, according to the degree of influence of the individuals to whom they were respectively intrusted, their limits have never been defined with accuracy.* * Since the occupation of this territory by the Egyp tian troops (1833) it has been divided into moudirliks or governments, and confided to generals of division : but their boundaries being so far, only provisional, it is not deemed necessary to insert them here. DEPARTURE FROM DAMIETTA.

Chapter II

Departure from Damietta— Mouth of the Nile— Passage of the Boghaz — At Sea — Our Vessel — Passengers on Board— Arrival off the Coast of Syria — Jaffa — Yabne — Ekron — Ashdod — Askelon — Gaza — Gath — El Arish — Setting out for the Holy City — Caravan of Pilgrims- Plain of Sharon — Ramla — Hospitium — Ruins in the Neighbourhood — Journey by Night to Jerusalem — Adventure — Halt at a Military Station. Damietta, 8th August, 1830. — I have said that we were desirous of visiting Palestine from hence. An opportunity of carrying this wish into effect, though perhaps not the most eligible one, this morning presented itself. An open rice-boat, of about fifty tons burden, was lying alongside the quay, ready to start for that coun try, and only waiting for a wind. We were not long in striking a bargain with the reiss or cap tain of this vessel, for this simple reason, that having completed his cargo, the high price we paid him — ten Spanish dollars — was all clear profit, if we except the loss of time occasioned MOUTH OF THE NILE. 11 by his landing us at Jaffa on his way to Bei rout, to which port he was eventually bound.

Having embarked our luggage, and taken leave of our excellent host, M. Darmandy, the French consul here, we went on board about noon, and immediately got under way. As we pushed off from the shore, many a poor Arab fellah gazed upon our bark with a longing eye, as if desirous to escape from the tyrannic chains of the present ruler of Egypt. But their motions were Avatched by the custom-house officers with a vigilance that made it impossible for us to second their wishes. We dropped down to the mouth of the river where we came to an anchor for the night. Aug. 9. — Early this morning the pilot of the Boghaz,* deeming the moment favourable, came on board to conduct us over the bar. As a measure of precaution, he commenced dis charging a part of the cargo into lighters, to be taken on board again, when in deep water.

This operation concluded, we stood out to sea. Fortunately there was very little wind at this moment, and we could easily discern the chan- * Boghaz is the term for the narrow and shallow channels through the sand-banks that stretch across the mouths ofthe Nile, preventing the passage of any ships of burden. PASSAGE OF THE BOGHAZ. nels through which it was necessary to pass — nevertheless we touched several times, to the great annoyance of the master of our vessel, who expressed his dissatisfaction in no measured terms, and this in a language which, all who have heard it will admit, is admirably adapted for the expression of passionate feeling. At length, clearing all impediments, we brought up in safety outside the bar, where the cargo being once more taken on board, it was stowed away, and we fairly set sail.

We now proceeded to make ourselves as comfortable as the crowded state of the vessel would admit of. The passengers consisted of M. de Cadalvene and myself ; M. de Breuvery* had gone overland from Cairo to Jerusalem — an Italian gentleman, and several slaves, male and female, destined for the Lady Hester Stan-« hope's establishment near Tsaida. The latter were accompanied by an aged and respectable looking Turk, who had been for many years * These gentlemen, in whose amiable and instructive society I had the advantage of travelling during the greater part of my tour in the East, have recently com menced publishing the result of their observations on these interesting countries. See " L'Egypte et la Turquie de 1829 a 1836, par MM. Ed. de Cadalvene et J. de Breuvery, avec cartes et planches."

DESCRIPTION OF A RICE BOAT. 13 attached to her ladyship's household. There was no cabin, though we paid as much as if there had been one ; but by piling up some rice-bags, which formed the principal part of our cargo, we drew a sort of barrier between ourselves and our Arab and Abyssinian friends, with whom it was desirable not to come into too close contact; for though peaceable and inoffensive, as we had every where found them to be, their habits do not always accord with our notions of cleanliness and propriety. A matting was laid down over the rice and coffee bags in lieu of a carpet, and a sail was sus pended over our heads, to protect us from the scorching rays of the sun. The reiss or master of the vessel sat on the poop, cross-legged, with a pipe in one hand and the tiller in the other, surrounded by a turbaned crew.

We had travelled sufficiently in these parts to be aware that, in our quahty of Europeans, we should be expected, though not bound, to find provisions for our companions as well as for ourselves. Accordingly, at the dinner hour, directions were given to increase the quantity of pilaf usually required on these occasions. The captain and the Turk were our guests ; after which, the bowl was carried to the crew, and finally to the ENNUI OF A SEA VOYAGE. \ slaves. The wind throughout the day was tolerably fair, and we made considerable way ; but it fell as the sun went down, and a dead calm ensued. We passed the night in con versation, singing, and gazing upon the starry firmament. Aug. 10. — The usual ennui attendant upon a sea-voyage, we experienced on this occasion, but in a more sensible degree.

Our vessel not being decked, we were not able to stir from the position we first took up, which, from the number of passengers on board, was necessarily cramped and confined. As we lay motionless on the wide expanse, we suffered much from the heat, which was excessive, and not relieved by a breath of air, until towards the evening, when a gentle ripple from the westward an nounced the approach of the wind, of which we stood so much in need. Aug. 11.— Early this morning we descried land ; but contrary to our expectations, instead of its being the port to which we were bound, we found the vessel steering direct for Mount Carmel. Upon reproaching the reiss for so great a deviation from the direct course, having the wind in his favour, he candidly acknowledged, that presuming time to be less an object of ARRIVAL AT JAFFA. 15 consideration with us than that of our personal safety, he had carefully avoided the flat shores of Egypt, and had made for the high land just mentioned.

It is in fact one of the most con spicuous features on the Syrian coast, and as no reckoning had been kept, and as, with the exception of the compass, wre had no nautical instrument on board, we felt inclined to give him credit for his prudence, thus artfully put forth ; but, having once recognised our position, we directed him to run down the coast to the southward, at the same time taking ourselves the tiller in hand. At three, p.m., we arrived off Jaffa. Upon making a signal, a boat pushed off from the town, and came alongside to take us on shore. Having made some preliminary inquiries of the boatmen respecting the health of the place, we lowered our luggage into their frail transport and committed ourselves to their care; not, however, without some apprehension, on account of their apparent awkwardness.

In the mean while, the bark pursued its course to Beirout. In our passages up to the wharf, we passed close under an Austrian brig lying in the roads, having brought down from Constantinople a living cargo, consisting of Greek, Armenian, JAFFA. and Russian pilgrims, bound to the Holy City. The anchorage here is not secure. It is too near a ledge of rocks which lie off the town ;* consequently, in bad weather, ships prefer putting to sea, to trusting to their cables. In our way to the landing-place, we passed through what appeared to be the ancient port. What ever might have been its former capabilities, it can at present only admit small boats, and only a few of them were to be seen. To judge from the number of idle persons who had assembled on the quays, to see the milordoif land, our arrival here had created some sensation.