Excursions in the Mountains of Ronda and Granada, with characteristic sketches of the inhabitants of the South of Spain

Front matter

r ©SSEIRAJLXUia, &AJLMS11 i\HJB T^ILEJBsr (Jiff raiE n>ivE2£<|). FROM A WIKDOTV" IM THE ALHAMBRA. V4 by Htsss-ss CoUttsjr*. 13,&t- Martfsoro ■ EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA AND GRANADA, WITH CHARACTERISTIC SKETCHES OF THE INHABITANTS OF THE SOUTH OF SPAIN BY CAPTAIN C. ROCHFORT SCOTT, AUTHOR OF " TRAVELS IN EGYPT AND CANDIA." " Aqui hermano Sancho, pudemos meter las mattes hfista los codos, en esto que Hainan avenluras." Don Qoijote. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON : HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1838. LONDON : T. SHOBERL, JUN. 51, RUPERT BTHEET, HAYMARKET. DEDICATION. To the Valued Friends who witnessed, and whom a congeniality of taste led to enjoy with me, the scenes herein described — whose wearied limbs have sought repose upon the same hard floor — whose spoons have been dipped in the same Gazpacho, I dedicate these pages.

In the course of our perigrinations we have often observed to each other, " Hæc olim merainisse juvabit." C. ROCHFORT SCOTT. Woolwich, 26th October. PAGE 1 21 CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME. PREFATORY CHAPTER. Containing little more than an Invocation— A Dissertation— A Choice of Miseries-A Bill of Fare— And a Receipt for making a Favourite Spanish Dish

Chapter I

Gibraltar-Forbidden Ground— Derivation of the Name-Curious Provisions of the Treaty of Utrecht-Extraction of Saints without a iYJiracle— Demoniacal Possessions— Beautv of the Scenery — Agremens of the Garrison— Its Importance to Great Britain, but Impolicy of making it a Free Port to all Nations— Lamentable Changes-Sketch of the Character of the Mountaineers of Ronda— English Quixotism— Political Opinions of the Different Classes in Spain

Chapter II

San Roque —Singular Title of " the City Authorities"— Situation — Climate — The late Sir George Don, Lieutenant Governor of Gibraltar — Anecdote Illustrative of the Character of the Spanish Government — Society of Spain — The Tertulia — The Various Circles of Spanish Society Tested by Smoking— Erroneous No- CONTENTS. PAOB tions of English Liberty and Religion — Startling Lenta] Cere monies ......•• ■11

Chapter III

Country in the Vicinity of San Roque — Ruins of the Ancient City of Carteia — Field of Battle of Alphonso the Eleventh — Journey to Ronda — Forest of Almoraima — Mouth of the Lions — Fine Scenery — Town of Gaucin — A Spanish Inn — Old Castle at Gaucin — Interior of an Andalusian Posada — Spanish Humour — Mountain Wine . . . . 59

Chapter IV

Journey to Ronda Continued — A Word on the Passport and Bill of Health Nuisances, and Spanish Custom-House Officers — Romantic Scenery — Splendid View — Benadalid — Atajate — First View of the Vale of Ronda — A Dissertation on Adventures, to make up for their absence — Ludicrous Instance of the Effects of Putting the Cart before the Horse 83

Chapter V

The Basin of Ronda — Sources of the River Guadiara — Remarkable Chasm through which it flows — City of Ronda — Date of its Foundation — Former Names — General Description — Castle — Bridges — Splendid Scenery — Public Buildings — Amphitheatre — Population — Trade — Smuggling — Wretched State of the Commerce, Manufactures, and Internal Communications of Spain, and Evils and Inconvenience resulting therefrom — Rare Productions of the Basin of Ronda — Amenity of its Climate — Agremeus of the City — Excellent Society — Character of its Inhabitants ....... 99

Chapter VI

Ronda Fair — Spanish Peasantry — Various Costumes — Jockeys and Horses — Lovely view from the New Alameda — Bull Fights — Defence of the Spanish Ladies — Manner of Driving the Bulls into the Town — First Entrance of the Bull — The Frightened Waterseller — The Mina, or Excavated Staircase — Ruins of Acinippo — The Cueva del Gato — The Bridge of the Fairy . 121

Chapter VII

Legend of the Fairy's bridge . CONTENTS. V 239

Chapter VIII. Page

Departure for Malaga — Scenery on and Dangers of the Road to El Burgo — Fine View from Casarabonela — An Independent Innkeeper — A Spanish Battle, attended with more Decisive Re sults than usual — Description of Casarabonela — Comeliness of its Washing Nymphs — Road to Malaga — River Guadaljorce — Sigila of the Romans — Cartama . . . . . . 178

Chapter IX

Unprepossessing Appearance of Malaga — Dread of Yellow Fever — The Alameda — Derivation of the City's Name, and Sketch of its History — The Gibralfaro and Alcazaba — Cathedral— Cigar Manufactory — Calculation of the Supply and Consumption of Cigars in Spain — Malaga Figures — Population — Trade — Wine Harbour — Society — Visit to El Retiro — The Fandango and Cachuca 199

Chapter X

Choice of Routes between Malaga and Granada — Road to Velez — Malaga — Observations on that Town — Continuation of Journey to Granada — Fertile Valley of the River Velez — Venta of Alcaucin — Zefaraya Mountains — Alhama — Description of that Place and of its Thermal Baths — Cacin — Venta of Huelma — Salt-pans of La Mala — First View of Granada and its Vega — Situation of the City — Its Salubrity — Ancient Names — Becomes the Capital of the Last Moslem Kingdom of Spain — Fine Approach to the Modern City — It is the most purely Moorish Town in Spain — Cause of the Decadence of the Arts under the Moors of Granada, and of the easy Conquest of the City — Destruction of the Moorish Literature on the Capture of the City by the Spaniards 217

Chapter XI

The Alhambra and Generalise — Other Reliques of the Moors contained within the City — The Cathedral of Granada — Chapel of the Catholic Kings — Antiquity of the Church of Eliberi — Tomb of Gonzalvo de Cordoba — Churches of San Juan De Dios and San Domingo — Carthusian Convent — Hermita De San Anton .......

Chapter XII

Granada continued — The Zacatin — Market Place — Bazaar — Population — TheGranadinos — Their Predilection for the French CONTENTS. PAGE Costume — Love of Masked Balls — Madame Martinez de la Rosa's Tertulia— An English Country Dance metamorphosed — Specimen of Spanish Taste in fitting up Country Houses — The Marques de Montijo — Anecdote of the Late King and the Conde de Teba— Constitutional Enthusiasm of Granada — Ends in Smoke — Military Schools — Observations on the Spanish Army — De parture for Cordoba — Pinos de la Puente — Puertode Lope — Moclin— Alcala la Real — Spanish Peasants — Manner of com puting Distance — Baena — Not the Roman Town of Ulia — Cas tro el Rio — Occnpied by a Cavalry Regiment — Valuable Friend — Curiosity of the Spanish Officers — Ditto of our New Acquaint ance — Influence of " Sherris Sack" — He relates his History — Continuation of our Journey to Cordoba — First View of that City 265

Chapter XVII

Cordoba — Bridge over the Guadalquivir — Mills — Quay — Spanish Projects — Foundation of the City — Establishment of the Western Caliphat — Capture of Cordoba by San Fernando — The Mezquita — Bishop's Palace — Market Place — Grand Religious Procession — Anecdote of the late Bishop of Malaga and the Tragala ........ 410 Appendix . 431 ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. 1. The Generalise, Palace, and Valley of the Darro. From a window in the Alhambra ..... Frontisviece- Frontispiece- VOL. II. The Castle of Ximena, and distant view of Gibraltar Frontispiece. EXCURSIONS IN THE MOUNTAINS OF RONDA AND GRANADA. PREFATORY CHAPTER. CONTAINING LITTLE MORE THAN AN INVOCATION — A DISSERTATION — A CHOICE OF MISERIES — A BILL OF FARE — AND A RECEIPT FOR MAKING A FAVOURITE SPANISH DISH. Spain ! region of romance ! of snow-capped mountains, dark forests, and crystal streams ! — Land of the olive and the vine — the perfumed orange and bright pomegranate ! — Country of portly priests, fierce bandits, and dark-eyed donzellas — the lively castanet and gay Fan dango !

And thou, fair Bœtica ! favoured pro vince of a favoured clime, whose purple grape vol. i. n SPANISH MONUMENTS. tempted Hercules to arrest his course — whose waving corn-fields and embowelled treasures have ever since excited the cupidity of the various ambitious nations that have in turn disputed the empire of the world ! Is it indeed true that ye are " now chiefly interesting to the traveller for the monuments which a foreign and odious race of conquerors have left behind them?" * Yes, you might proudly answer, we admit such is the case. Spain is chiefly interesting to the stranger on account of the monu ments left by her turbaned conquerors ; but she is so simply, because, in no other country, are they to be seen in so perfect a state ; because, in no other part of the world subjected to Mos lem sway, did the arts ever reach to such per fection.

But, whilst Spain lays especial claim to the attention of the stranger on account of the relics of the Moors that are strewed over her surface, she possesses, in common with other countries of Southern Europe, the usual at tractions that excite the interest of travellers. Can she not boast of owning monuments of the demi-god Hercules, f and other conquerors of • Hallam. — Europe during the Middle Ages. f The causeway that connects the city of Cadiz with the Isla de Leon is said to be a fragment of a work undertaken by Hercules ; the castle of Santi Petri (built on a rocky island about five miles to the east of the city) to be constructed from the ruins of a temple built by FALLEN STATE OF SPAIN. the most remote antiquity ? Are not her shores studded with ruins of the Phœnicians, Cartha genians, and Romans ?

Has she not noble works of art of yet more recent times than her Moorish palaces to boast of? May she not proudly point to the splendid gothic edifices raised since her release from the Mussulman yoke ? to the incomparable paintings of the divine Murillo ? to the statuary of a Cano ? Is not the Spanish peninsula one of the most beau tiful as well as richest countries in the world? Such is the answer that Spain and her beauteous daughter, Boetica, might make to the accusation which the words of the accomplished Author I have quoted may be construed to bear. I will venture to add further, that Spain, in her present fallen state, excites, perhaps, yet more intensely, the curiosity and interest of the Tra veller, than she could have done even in the days of her greatest glory : for, the contem plation of the wreck of such an Empire — an Em pire " on whose wide dominions the sun never set ; " whose resources were deemed inexhaustible — cannot but be highly interesting and instructive.

At every step the stranger takes whilst wanthat celebrated hero, and in which his bones were deposited. — Traces of this temple may be seen ac low water, near the mouth of the San Pedro river. b2 TRACES OF FORMER GRANDEUR. dering over Spain's neglected though still fer tile plains, some trace is observable of her former wealth and power, some proof is mani fest of her present poverty and impotence. Let him cast a glance at the ruins of the magnificent arsenals of Cadiz, Vigo, and Barcelona* — let him mark the closed door of the Tower of Gold,f at Seville — let him observe the use to which the sumptuous Lonjai has been con verted — the dilapidated condition of the gor geous palace of Charles the Fifth. Let him notice the crumbling state of all the public buildings throughout the kingdom, even to the actual residences of its monarch — track the remains of once magnificent roads — explore the deep recesses of abandoned mines.

Let him, in fine, observe the commerce of the country de troyed, its manufactures ruined, its Army disorganized, and its Treasury penniless ; and, whilst he learns what Spain has been, he will see to what a lamentable state she is reduced. Nor to the Traveller alone is the contemplation of Spain, in her fallen greatness, a source of interest and instruction. The Philosopher, the * That of Cadiz is literally a ruin. t The Torre del Oro, in which the precious metals brought from Mexico were formerly deposited. \ The Lonja was built (as the word in fact implies) for an exchange, but, from the fallen slate of Spanish commerce, it is now used as a depot for the American Archives. LAMENTABLE CHANGE. Statesman, the Philanthropist, and the Patriot, may all draw from it serious matter for reflec tion.

Who amongst them could have foreseen, but half a century back, that Spain would, in the course of a few years, be reduced to her present abject condition ? Who can noiv foresee the day that, phœnix-like, she may arise from her ashes ? Who can fully answer the yet more simple questions — What led to the down fall of Spain ? What keeps her — gifted as she is by nature with all the germs of prosperity — in her present state of degradation ? Did the extraordinary influx of the precious ores, con sequent on the discovery of America, occasion her gradual downfall ? Did the impolitic ex pulsion of the Jews and Moors from her territory lead to it? Does the blighting influence of Popery reply to the two-fold query ? Does the vacillating rule of Despotism solve the pro blem ? All, probably, have had a share in effecting this lamentable change.

The great influx of money led to the neglect of the resources of Spain herself, and induced habits of in dolence in all classes of society. The expulsion of the Jews deprived the country of its prin cipal capitalists — that of the Moors, of its most industrious inhabitants. The bigotry and intolerance of its Church have kept its CATHOLICISM IN SPAIN. population in ignorance, whilst most other nations of Europe have become enlightened. The numerous religious houses, endowed with the richest lands in the country, and swarming with unprofitable inmates, have preyed upon its resources. The rule of a weak and bigoted race of sovereigns — themselves governed in turn by profligate favourites and ambitious priests — has sapped the monarchy to its foundation ; finally, the crude and hasty innovations of wild theorists are undermining its remain ing strength, and preparing to effect its utter downfall.

But, whilst many of these causes still operate most fatally in keeping the country in its present state of degradation, the last named is that which is likely to inflict upon it the greatest amount of misery. Catholicism — such as it is in Spain at least — is incompatible with free institutions ; and Catholicism has too firm a hold of the mass of the Spanish people to be easily eradicated. Atheism, it is true, has made great progress in some quarters ; and between it and Popery lies the contest now carrying on. Many persons are apt to think that the struggle is between Superstition and " liberal Catholicism" — between a Despotism and a limited Monarchy. But those who know Spain THE MONARCHY PARTY. intimately, are aware that such is far from being the case ; they know, on the contrary, that the contest must end (when it would be difficult to say) either in the restoration of an absolute throne, or the establishment of a De mocratic Republic.

The limited Monarchy Party — or Moderados — though the most respectable in talents, con sists but of a few educated Nobles, and a small portion of the Mercantile and learned Profes sions — some few even of the clergy ; but amongst the mass of the people it has no supporters whatever ; for amongst the lower orders the term is not understood. The leaders of this party — like the Gironde in France — were carried away by the breakers of reform, as they swept onwards with increas ing volume; and the unprincipled men who have since usurped the direction of affairs, — with all the vanity of a Mirabeau, but without one spark of his talents, — imagine they shall be listened to, when they bid the flowing tide to advance no further : — but, though they would not object to, nay, though they desire, the esta blishment of a Republic, yet they too will find Spanish Robespierres and Talliens to dispute their power.

To others, however, I abandon the wide field of inquiry these questions open ; the following ANDALUSIA. pages, whatever glimmerings of light they may throw upon the subject, being devoted to the description of but a small portion of this ill used, ill governed, but most interesting country. The part I have selected — namely, Andalusia — whilst it differs very materially from the rest of the Spanish peninsula, claims in many re spects the first place in the estimation of the traveller, whatever may be his taste or the di rection of his inquiries. If the Moorish monuments be the object of his research, he will find they have been scattered with a more profuse hand throughout Andalusia than in any other part of the penin sula; the lofty mountain chain which forms the northern boundary of the province* having for some considerable time arrested the Christian arms, after the rest of Spain had been recovered from the Mohammedans ; whilst the yet more rugged belt that encircles Granada presented an obstacle which retarded the entire reconquest of the kingdom, for upwards of two centuries and a half.

During that long period, therefore, the Moslems, driven within the limits of so diminished a circle, were necessarily obliged to enlarge and multiply their towns, to cultivate with greater care their fields and orchards, and • The Province of Andalusia comprises, strictly speaking, only the three kingdoms of Seville, Cordoba, and Jaen ; but that of Granada is generally included by modern Geographers. MANNERS OF THE PEOPLE. to strengthen, in every possible way, the natural defences of their territory ; and thus, their re mains, besides being more numerous there than in other parts of Spain, furnish specimens, of the latest as well as of the earliest date, of their peculiar style of architecture. Should matters of more general interest have drawn the Traveller to Spain, he will still find Andalusia laying especial claim to his atten tion ; History ascribing to each mountain pass and every crumbling ruin the fame of having been the scene of some desperate conflict be tween the various ambitious nations that, before the Saracenic invasion, successively sought the possession of this fertile region.

The peculiar manners and character of its dark inhabitants afford yet another source of interest to the Stranger ; although the swarthy race may almost claim to be classed amongst its Arabic remains ; for so deep-rooted was the attachment of the Moors of Granada to the country of their adoption, that neither the op pressive tyranny of their masters, nor the sacrifice of their religion, nay, not even the esta blishment of the " holy " inquisition, (which extirpated them by thousands) could induce them to abandon it. Broken in spirit, re plunged in ignorance, their industry unavailing, their language corrupted, they bent the knee to MAGNIFICENT SCENERY. the blood-stained cross presented to them, and assumed the name of Spaniards : but as a Spanish nobleman once observed to me in speaking of these wild mountaineers, his depen dants, " They are to this day but Moors who go to Mass."

Again, should the beauties of nature have attracted the Traveller's footsteps to Spain, he will find the scenery of Andalusia of the most magnificent and varied kind ; presenting alter nately ranges of lofty mountains and broad fertile plains — boundless tracts of forest and richly cultivated valleys — picturesque towns and mountain fortresses — winding rivers and impetuous torrents. It may indeed be said to combine the wild beauties of the Tyrol with the luxuriant vegetation and delightful climate of Southern Italy. Well might the last of the Alhamares* weep, on taking his final leave of the lovely Vega,\ over which it had been his fortune to be born the ruler, whence it was his " luckless" fate to be driven forth, a wanderer! Even to this day, the Moors of Barbary preserve the title-deeds and charters by which their ancestors held • The kingdom of Granada was faunded by Mohammed Abou Said, of the family of Alhamares, A.D. 1236. t The Vale of Granada is, par excellence, termed La Vega.

Vega signifies a plain. LOVE OF COUNTRY. 11 their estates in Spain, and offer up daily prayers to Allah, to restore to them their lost Granada ; and one might almost suppose, from the no madic life still led by many of their tribes, and the unsettled habits which distinguish them all, that they consider their actual country as but a temporary abode, and live in the hope and expectation that their oft-repeated prayer will eventually be heard. Nor is the present inhabitant of this fair region less sensible than his Moorish ancestor of the value of his inheritance. It is not in his nature t© express himself in the passionate lan guage of the Neapolitan, — whose well known exclamation, Vedi Napoli e poi mori! might be applied with better reason to a hundred other places ; — but, with an equal degree of hyperbole though a somewhat less suicidical feeling, the Granadino declares with calm dignity, that " Quien no ha visto a Granada No ha visto nada."* But, apart from all other considerations, there is a charm in travelling in Spain, which renders it peculiarly attractive to most persons possessing the locomotive mania, namely, the charm of novelty.

Every thing in that country is different from what is met with in any other ; He who has not seen Granada — has seen nothingli INfl'in-MMV \ M.l>SlNi;. every thing is proverbially uiicrrfoin ;* and tin." traveller is tfttra kept in a ponstnnl state of ex citement, from Ins l.i;n-\ being efOf bilSJ guessing what, is to come next. Theft can be Ifttlfc ctoubt bitt thai Che uncertainty attendant on all mundane affairs greatly enhances our enjoyment of life. Tnkc (lie < Ki ratiua of our ex is to nee itself as an instance. did we know the precise* moment at which it was to terminate, we should he miserable dliflngf the whole period of its coiitinnruK-e, So, in like i Kiiiner, does the uncertainty attendant on such trifling matters as getting a. bed or n supper give a peculiar zest to louring in Spain.

You have there no " Jfitirrtiirc tics I'vi/afreurs," to mark the spot to a mil 'li 'metre, where a relay ol" post-horses is to be found ; no " Hand-book for Travellers," with a list of the best inns on (h< road, to spoil your appetite by anticipation ; no dear pains-taking Mrs. Starkc.f to beat up quarters and sights for you, and determine • CW<? <ie E*]i"ini! frd cuinrnon Mode of CXfMWMiulg tin' umvi 1,111,1 \ it btotj linn? eoujuctfid " nil S|i.iiii. -» Ajfixirb of Spnin " l'.n [,'■ ii ii'inn me to dJApHrage tUe ipfnrniatioR 01 uudefv*loa iliu c\fii urn:; !■( i'hv mcisi e*tbanbW l.nl_\, to turn tin pr&uoui time td wj ,-,rj ' ■.mi! IV mi -il I 'i tile Etml .ii-ci.lllil : OH till ■• nlr.il I . I r;m wit 1 1 jjrriVct Initii.iinl fifim nim.-li |ioi'.')iiiil (■ypprii-iii'i' «:iv. Ili.il, I iu'vit nut vmiI) i i • 1 1 . ■ r General flitferary ilun ifial $ia Ii.*^ given in iIjl- (aibtic . ami tli"H2li, as regard?

Spain, iLc nm iml i>( inlV.nriatioii is *i:ant). jet it i»: lievtfttlieleas far notii COfTrtl tli.in (bat L-ontnined in woiKs ] liavi' nn;t nviiIi, dewtol e\'.U(>iv'ls in 1 1 if daacttfvtwr offlwi covillQ CHARMS FOR THE TRAVELLER. 13 beforehand the sum you have (or rather ought) to pay for bed and " pasto." No — you travel with a bad map of the country in your pocket over a stony track that is not marked upon it — and which you are at times disposed to be lieve is rather the bed of a torrent than a road. Before you is the prospect of passing the night on this villanous king's highway ; or, should you be fortunate enough to reach the shelter of a roof, the doubt, whether a comfortable bed, a truss of straw, or a hard floor, will receive your wearied limbs ; and whether you will have to go supperless to bed, or find a savoury olla, per fuming the whole establishment.

It must, I think, be admitted, that there is a certain charm in this independent mode of tra velling — this precarious manner of existence. It carries the wanderer back to the days of chivalry and romance — of the Cid Campeador and Bernardo del Carpio ; dropping him at least half a dozen centuries behind the Liver pool and Manchester Railroad. Nevertheless, — as the Spaniards say — Hay gustos que merecen palos ;* and many will per chance think that mine is in that predicament, a settled order of things being more to their fancy : — par exemple, the five mile an hour clattering en poste over a French pave — all * There are tastes which deserve a stick. CHARMS FOR THE TRAVELLER. conversation drowned in the horrible noise made by the heavy horses' heavy tramp, or the yet more abominable clacking of their monkey jacketed driver's whips. — Then the certain com forts of a grand Hotel meuble ! — the spacious whitewashed room, adorned with prints of Ar cola, Jena, and Friedland !

(which I have always thought would look much better if worked in the pattern of a carpet) : the classically ca nopied bed ! — that certainly would not be less comfortable, if a foot or two longer. — Others again may be found who would give up the charm of uncertainty, for the fixed pleasure of sitting behind the pipes and " sacraments" of German postboys, listening to the discordant notes of their bugles, and looking forward to the sudorific enjoyments (stoves and duvets) of the Gasthof, and the dyspeptic delights (grease and sauerkraut) of its Speisesaal ! — Some even — but these I trust are few — may like to listen to the melodiously rounded oaths of an Italian vetturino, addressed to his attenuated horses in all the purity of the Lingua Toscana ; by dint of which, and an unceasing accompaniment of merciless sferzatone, he provokes the wretched animals into a jog-trot, that, with rinfresco and rinforzo, kills the whole day and them by inches, to get over a distance of forty or fifty miles.

For my own part, I freely confess, that not ENGLISH STAGE COACH. 15 even our English modes of " getting over the ground" have such charms for me, as the trip ping and stumbling of one's horse over a Spanish trocha* — I take no delight in being dragged through the country at the rate of a mile a minute, powdered with soot, (pardon the bull) suffocated with steam, and sickened with grease. Neither does our steady ten mile an hour stage-coach travelling find much favour in mine eyes ; though I grant it is now most admi rably conducted, the comforts of the old " slow coaches" being so happily blended with the accelerated speed called for in this progressive age, that a change of horses is effected in less than one minute, and a feed of passengers in something under ten ! — But I always pity the victims of this unwholesome alliance of comfort and celerity. — Observe that fidgety old gentle man, muzzled in a red worsted comforter, and crowned with a Welsh wig.

Having started without breakfast, or at most with but half of one, he counts impatiently the minutes and milestones that intervene between him and the dining-place ; arrived there, if five minutes be fore the appointed time, every thing is under done ; if five minutes after, a deduction of equal amount is made in the time allowed for de spatching the viands. Swallowing, therefore, in * A mountain road. ARRIVAL AT AN INN. all haste the indigestible roast pork and par boiled potatoes that are placed before him, he resumes his seat in or upon the vehicle, de claring-*-whilst the unwholesome food sticking in his throat nearly chokes him — that he "feels all the better" for his dinner ! soon after which, with a flushed face and quickened pulse, he drops into a feverish slumber, dreaming of mad bulls and carniverous swine, sloe juice and patent brandy.

Towards midnight, the announcement of " a quarter of an hour, gentlemen" (meaning some thing less than half that time), relieves him from these painful reminiscences, affording an op portunity of washing them down with some scalding liquid, which, though bearing the name of tea or coffee, is a decoction of some delete rious plant or berry, that certainly never basked under the sun of China or Arabia Felix. At last, however, he arrives at the end of his long journey — he has got over a distance of a hundred and ninety-five miles in nineteen hours and thirty-five minutes ! The hour of arrival is inconveniently early it is true, but, even at 3 o'clock A.M., he finds a comfortable hotel open to receive him; an officious "boots" sufficiently master of his drowsy senses to present the well or rather the ill-used slippers — a smirking chambermaid sufficiently awake to make him ANDALUSIAN POSADA. believe that the warming-pan, with which she precedes him up three pair of stairs, contains hot coals ; and impudent enough, whilst pre senting him with a damp, once white, cotton nightcap, to ask at what o'clock he would like to be awakened — she well knowing, all the time, that the stir of passengers about to depart by an early coach will to a certainty effect that object for him in the course of an hour, whether he likes it or not.