The Baltic, the Black Sea, and the Crimea

Front matter

THE BALTIC THE BLACK SEA, AND THE CRIMEA: COMPRISING TRAVELS IN RUSSIA, A VOYAGE DOWN THE VOLGA TO ASTRACHAN, AND A TOUR THROUGH CRIM TARTAR Y. BY CHARLES HENRY SCOTT. THIRD EDITION, REVISED. LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, Vlubli. itr in Orbinarg to \§u |Hajcstn. 1855. [The Author and Publisher reserve to themselves the right of Translating this irorfc.] LONDON: POINTED BY IV. CLOWES AND SONS. STAMFORD STKELT,

ADVERTISEMENT.

. From the extreme rapidity with which the first im pression of this work was printed, the author regrets that several errors were overlooked, but these have been corrected in later editions.

Preface

The hostilities now raging in the Baltic and Black Sea — the mighty influences, for good or for evil, which they must exercise over the suture destinies of Europe — and, above all, the deep sympathy which carries the thoughts and hearts of nearly every family in great Britain to some dear relative or friend engaged in the dangers of so terrible a contest, naturally create an intense and absorbing interest in everything connected with the Russian Empire. A craving after further information is thus produced concerning a country, the government of which has ventured to outrage the opinion of the world, by violating all international law, and by rushing into a deadly struggle with the most powerful nations of Europe, to uphold principles which have their foundation neither in morality nor justice.

These considerations furnish my excuse for placing this Volume before the public. My original notes were thrown aside until a few weeks since, when, on reperusal (believing them to contain some fresh matter which may prove acceptable to the reader. while adding to the very scanty stock of knowledge 9 VI

PREFACE.

. existing in relation to the remote regions of the Muscovite dominions), I determined to publish them. The book has no pretensions, beyond giving a faithful narrative of things and places seen and visited, with the impressions to which they gave rise ; and some short sketches of the various races encountered in these wanderings. Tedious details of the numerous trifling incidents inseparable from every long tour have been avoided as much as possible. The voyage down the Volga from Nijni-Novgorod to Astrachan has never before been accomplished in the same manner by any travellers who have pub lished their experiences ; and I know of no English work which speaks of the author having visited the latter town at all. The Don Cossack and Noguai Tartar districts are also fields but seldom traversed, and little known.

The Crimea (a country replete with sorrowful remembrances, and stirring associations) appears des tined to become the theatre of exciting and important events : a circumstance that may give additional interest to my description of that peninsula, which possesses so many attractions for the archæologist, the historian, and the admirer of the sublime, the picturesque, and the beautiful in scenery. Paris, August 15th, 1854. ) ✓ CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page

Leave Stockholm — Fortress of Waxholm — The Aland Islands — Reach Abo — A knowing Innkeeper — An Old Cathedral and New Church — Modern Town of Abo — Helsingfors — A View from the Harbour — Fortress of Sweaborg — Admiral Cronstadt — Alexander and the Fins — A mistake of Europe — A striking Change — Revel — Cronstadt -------1

Chapter II

Approach to Petersburg — Life on the Neva — The Custom-house — The Izac Church — The Kasan Church— The Winter Palace — A Plain Saloon and a " Boudoir" — The Hermitage — A Row to Yelagin — The Garden Islands — A Russian Fete — Peterhoff — Fete of the Empress -

Chapter III

The Citadel and Church of St. Peter and St. Paul— Foundling Hospital — The Arsenal — " Corps des Mines " — The Streets — The Summer Garden — A Scotch Physician — Adieu to the Queen of the Neva — Making a Eoad — Novgorod the Great — Pioadside Villages — The Costume of the Peasants — Personal Appearance of the Peasantry — Travelling Carriages - - - - - - CONTENTS. VIII

Chapter IV. Page

Arrive at Moscow — Towns interesting from different causes — A view over Moscow — Moscow the idol of the Russians —The " Spass Vorota"— A Satat's F§te— the Gostinnoi Dvor — Ninime and Pajarski — The Maidens' Convent — The Nuns not Beautiful— The Kremlin — Russian Superstition ------- 46

Chapter V

The Terema Palace — Napoleon at Moscow — The Tower of Ivan Valiki — A Great Gun — Russian Tricks — St. Basil's Church — The Foundling Hospital — Division of Classes — Prevention of Fire — Siberia — A Philanthropist — Siberian Exiles — Knocking off Chains— The Exiles' Prison in Moscow — A cherished Souvenir - - - 58

Chapter VI

Troitska Monastery — Russian Churches — The Pilgrims' Worship — The Altar and " Ikonostas " — St. Servius — St. Servius at Silistria — The Treasury — The Refectory — The Pilgrims — View from the Tower — Leave Troitska — Leave Moscow — Cotton Lords — Cossack Stations 75

Chapter VII

Arrive at Nijni Novgorod — Hotel Boubenoff — Influence of Commerce — A Mania for Bells — Reflned Gipsies — Russian Dances — A German Breakfast — View over the Oka — The Town of Nijni Novgorod — Decide on Descending the Volga — Looking for a Boat — A Bargain made — A Notary's Consolation — Our Volga Boat — Preparing for the Voyage CONTENTS. IX PAGE SO — A Deserter — Taking a Prisoner — An abject Slave — A wild Crew — Boatmen's Repast — Battlemented Monaste ries — A romantic Village — Almost an Adventure

Chapter VIII

Rechievahs — Kosmadimiansk — The Tchouwasses — Their Marriages — Tcheboksar — Character of the Scenery — Anticipations — Approach to Kazan — An Uncomfortable Drive — Reach Kazan — The Gostinnoi Dvor — The University — The Streets of Tartar Town — The Kazan Tartars — Rendezvous of Siberian Exiles - 112 CHAPTER' IX. Leave Kazan — The Kama River — Imperial Policy— Nicholas and the Church — Simbirsk — Karemzin's Monument — The Church always conspicuous — A Wilder Region — Russians Bathing — Our Servant Andre' — Life on the Volga — The Boatmen's Songs — Khvalynsk— Volsk, and the Italian Boy — Russian Capacity of Endurance — Saratov — An Encounter with Officials — Interference of the Military — A Triumph ------- 127

Chapter X

Rovno — A dirty People — Doubofka — Drunken men at Tzaritzyn — A Midnight visit to Sarepta — German Honesty — Flight of Wild Fowl — A Don Cossack's House — An Oasis in the Desert of Dirtiness — A Kalmuc Camp — A Kalmuc Mother — The Kibitka — Kalmuc Costumes — Kalmuc Feeding — A Russian Fishing Station — The Evening Prayer — Commencing Difficulties — Leave the Boat — A Polite Postmaster — Arrive at Astrachan - * - - - - - - - X CONTENTS. PAGE 201

CHAPTER XL

A Shocking Night — A Fever taken — The town of Astrachan —The Fisheries — Russian Credulity — The Chief of Police — Prepare for departure — An unfortunate Resolution — Monday an unlucky Day — An insensible Servant — The Polka Jacket — Sarepta — The Moravian Church — The Contents of a Garret — The Act of a Despot — An evening with the Pastor — Farewell to Sarepta - 166

Chapter XII

Adieu to the Volga — Steppe travelling — Getting a Horse out of a difficulty — The " Yamstchic " — Arrival at Novo- Tcherkask — The Bazaars — The Don Cossacks — Nakitchevan — Taganrog — Variety of Races — The Noguai Tartars — Value of Women — Costumes of the Noguais — The " Tsiganes " — Mariopol — A Russian Urchin and a Tartar — Arabat — Rather Disagreeable - 183

Chapter XIII

Panticapæum — The Hill of Mithridates — Yawning Tombs — The Hill of Gold — A Slight Atonement — Opening a Grave — Modern Kertch — Kertch under the Turks — View of Theodosia — Man's Wild Passions — Russian Barbarism — Arrive at Theodosia — Remains of the Ancient Town — A Scene on the Shore — Karasu-bazaar — The Art of Turning — Coffee-houses — Khans and Churches

Chapter XIV

A change of Scenery — Simpheropol and Ac-Metchet — Mysterious Figures — The Salgir Valley — Bribing Yamstchiks — Abode of a Crim Tartar — Tartar Maiden's Skill — The CONTENTS. XI PAGE Tartar Matron — Three Young Tartar Wives — Mountain Caverns of Kisil Koba — The Lower Caverns — Tchatir Dagh — Beautiful Scenery — Arrival at Alushta — Roman ruins — Modest Russian Church - - - - 219

Chapter XV

The Southern Coast — Reach Yalta — An Englishman's Grave — Botanical Garden of Nikita — Wines of the Crimea — Yalta a Watering-place — A Russian Colonel — Struggling with Passion — " Haute Politique " — Russian Opinions — Russian Education — Annihilating Turkey — Russian Prisons — Leave Yalta — Castle of Alupka — A luxuriant spot — A romantic Hotel - 235

Chapter XVI

Leave Alupka — Sublime Scenery — The Baidar Pass — An ill-used A7alley — Reach Balaclava — Ruins by Twilight and Moonlight — Balaclava — The Harbour — Reach Sevastopol — Effects of Crimean AVine — English Society — The Port and Harbours — The Fortifications — Casemated Fortresses — Remarks on the Fortifications — Russian Black Sea Fleet — Russian Corruption — Defences toAvards the Land — Landing-places for an Army — Balaclava desirable for a besieging Army — Attacking Sevastopol from the North — The Club-house — Military Hospital — The Great Docks — Sailors' Barracks — AVatering the Fleet - - - 253

Chapter XVII

A Row up the Bay — Inkerman — An excavated Monastery — A Town of Caverns — Great Fortress in Ruins — Observations on the Caves of Inkerman — Great Stone Quarries — Tchernaia Retchka Valley — A Tartar Beauty — The Tower of Tchergouna — A moonlight Row down the Bay CONTENTS. 311

Chapter XVIII. Page

Leave for Bacthi-Serai — First View of the Town — Enter Bacthi-Serai — Palace of the Khans — Interior of the Palace — A7estibule and Fountains — A Kiosk — The Harem — Legend of the Harem — Dilara Bikez — The Tombs of the Khans — Short reigns of the Khans — Reveries in the Palace — The town of Bacthi-Serai — The Fountains — The Crim Tartars — The Tartar's Capacity for Civilization — The Abodes of the Gipsies — The Monastery of the Assumption — Achelama - - - - - 291

Chapter XIX

Tchoufout-Kale' — Enter the Fortress Town — The Karaite Jews — Observations on the Karaites — Tchoufout-Kale', the Capital of the Khans — The Synagogue — The Valley of Jehoshaphat — A Singular Apparition — An Amusing Introduction — A French Blue-stocking — Cain Killing his brother Abel — A Touching Present — The Fortress Town of Mangoup Kale' — Extraordinary Ruins — Palace of Margoup — Curious Dwellings — Return to Bacthi-Serai -

Chapter XX

The Ruins of Chersonesus — Tumuli— Monastery of St. George — Entrance to the Monastery — Leave Sevastopol — A last View of the Fortifications — Eupatoria — Reach Odessa — The Streets — The Suburbs — Public Buildings — The Letter of Introduction — The Chief of the Police — The Prison of Odessa — Life near the Quarantine Harbour — Russian Corruption — Sufferings of the Soldier — Permission to embark ------ THE BALTIC, THE BLACK SEA AND THE CRIMEA.

Chapter I

Leave Stockholm — Fortress of AVaxholm — The Aland Islands — Reach Abo — A knowing Innkeeper — An Old Cathedral and New Church — Modern Town of Abo — Helsingfors — A View from the Harbour — Fortress of Sweaborg — Admiral Cronstadt — Alexander and the Fins — A mistake of Europe — A striking Change — Revel — Cronstadt. On the 2nd of July, 1850, after having passed nearly a month in Stockholm, I embarked with my friend, Mr. Gordon of Pitlurg, on board a small wretched steam-boat, to cross the Baltic to Finland. We had already visited the whole of the islands of Denmark, enjoyed some beautiful scenery in Sweden, and now proposed taking a long tour in the Russian dominions. The ordinary passenger-boat, from some unex plained cause, had ceased running, and we were com pelled to take our berths in the little " Abo," which looked as old as the town whence its name was derived.

Fortunately, from an early application, we B ■-> LEAVE STOCKHOLM. succeeded in securing the only two diminutive sleep ing-cabins, and so far escaped the misery which fell to the lot of our fellow-passengers. A lovely morning had followed the soft twilight, which at this season and in this clime banishes the deep shades of the night ; and the fresh bracing air sweeping over the Malar Lake seemed to add vigour to the body, as the bright, clear atmosphere gave exhilaration to the spirits. Six o'clock, the hour of departure, arrived, and shortly after we cast off from the quay. The fair city of Stockholm, with her white houses, surmounted by her handsome palace, sprang like a beautiful virgin from the midst of the waters, joyous and gay. We left her with regret ; for we had spent a happy time amongst her kind-hearted people ; had partaken of all the festivities attending the marriage of the heir to the throne ; and witnessed the demon strations of loyalty displayed by a grateful people, to a good king, and a popular Crown Prince.

On our left we passed the deer park, with its noble trees and picturesque villas, the retreat of the idle, and the resort of the pleasure-seekers ; while on the right were brown rocks, sterile and wild, only relieved by the dark green of some stunted firs, whose scanty wants were scarcely supplied from the barren crevices into which their roots had struck. For many miles we sailed through scenery rapidly changing in appear ance, but constant in beauty. Now the blue dancing FORTRESS OF WAXHOLM. 3 water expanded into a charming lake, now contracted into a narrow passage guarded by peaks of granite, against which the white foam dashed. Here was a secluded little bay ; and there a dozen small islands, some naked and blear, others wooded and green. At length we reached Waxholm, a strongly forti fied island ; the first outwork of Sweden on the side of Russia, and beneath the very guns of which a steam frigate of the Czar's was lying.

This fortress commands the only channel by which large ships can pass, and is in a position naturally powerful. Sweaborg has long since been lost ; Aland has shared the same fate ; and Waxholm has probably been regarded with no indifferent feelings by the possessor of those other strongholds, the rightful property of Sweden. Be that as it may, this great sentinel which guards the portals of freedom from the encroachments of despotism, seemed to have a fixed frown, alike for friend or for foe, which the glowing sun of the morning could not chase from its brow. For some distance after entering the Baltic we steered through innumerable islands and islets ; some peeping out from the surface of the water, others presenting high peaks and bold fronts ; while the white sails of the fishermen's boats ever and anon burst into view, soon again to be lost to the sight.

And well it was that these pleasing objects were there to enliven us, for our miserable little tub crept lazily along, and midnight had almost arrived ere we B2 THE ALAND ISLANDS. touched at one of the Aland group, where we stopped to take in wood. These islands, ceded to Russia in 1810, form part of the district of Abo. Situate in the Gulf of Bothnia, their position is menacing towards the centre of Sweden, and, in case of war between it and Russia, could be made a rendezvous for a fleet, which would at all times be excessively dangerous to the former. Bomersund has been strongly fortified, and seems destined to play an important part in the events to which a few months must now give birth. It was not until six o'clock in the morning that we were again under weigh. In the meantime the small cabin of the steamer presented an extraordinary appearance.

About a dozen passengers were crowded together on the floor, each endeavouring to get possession of the softest plank whereon to pass the night ; and a more seedy-looking set, as they emerged unwashed and unshaven in the morning from their common resting-place, could scarcely be imagined. A fresh breeze came on, and the decks piled up high with wood, caused the crazy boat to roll so much that she sometimes threatened to go over altogether ; and we were not a little rejoiced when we entered the small bay, and thence the Aura, on which Abo, the ancient capital of Finland, is situated. On our left the towers of the old castle looked respectable from their antiquity, but added little to the picturesque, for bricks and mortar with fallen REACH ABO. 5 stucco, however large the building may be in which they exist, never convey to the mind an idea of grandeur, or any deep feeling of veneration.

Yet this " chateau " has charms which are independent of its material or architecture. It has about it the hallowed memories of the past, and history connects it with many interesting events. Here Eric, the unworthy son of Gustavus Vasa, shut up his brother, and after committing a thousand acts of barbarity himself found a prison. It was regarded in the olden times as one of the fortresses of Finland ; and more than once formed a barrier to the invasion of the Russians, while it often withstood the attacks of those political parties, who from time to time contended for power from the thirteenth to the sixteenth century. The Aura is an insignificant stream : and Abo is about two miles from its mouth. Immediately on our touching the small pier, some quiet-looking custom-house officers came on board.

Our passports, already in possession of the captain, were handed over to them, and we were surveyed in the order which our names occupied on his list ; after which a strict examination of the luggage being made, we were permitted to land. It appeared on inquiry that the steamer for Petersburg had left in the morning, and that the boat which had brought us was the jjroperty of the hotel-keeper ; who had very wisely arranged, for his own benefit, that it should reach Abo as soon as A KNOWING INNKEEPER. possible after the other had departed ; and thus he managed every week to detain the greater number of the travellers who arrived by it, for several days at the "Society's House Hotel." The only consola tion to us under this detention was, the establishment being tolerably clean and well conducted.

The morning after our arrival we were obliged to appear before the governor of the district, who furnished us with a provisional passport for Peters burg ; but this required the vise of the police before it was of the slightest use, and for that certain fees were expected. Abo is the oldest town of Finland, and the cradle of Christianity in that country ; but few of the monuments of its flourishing period now remain. It has met with a series of misfortunes, which were brought to a climax by a terrible fire that ravaged it in 1827. Helsingfors had previously been constituted the capital ; and it became the policy of Russia to remove the University to the same locality, and to crush the lingering attachment in the people to the birthplace of their faith, and the seat of their learning. All support was withdrawn from it ; and commerce, which had previously flourished, soon began to wither, and had latterly become nearly extinct.

The old cathedral almost fell a victim to the all devouring conflagration : the fire having entered it, destroyed the organ and other parts, and reduced AN OLD CATHEDRAL AND NEAV CHURCH. 7 some of its marble monuments to lime. There stood the poor old Gothic edifice but partially repaired ; while, as if to taunt the venerable pile with bitter mockery, a pert-looking Greek-Russian church close by, obtruded its paint, as an ill-mannered girl would flaunt her finery in the presence of a dame of gentler blood and purer taste, whose brow was whitened by the snows of age. We entered this cathedral, and looked around with deep interest upon the monuments of a people, doomed soon to be absorbed and lost. Amongst them is one presenting a singular instance of romance in real life. It is a tablet to the memory of Catherine Morsson, the peasant's daughter, who, possessed of beauty but too attractive, was taken by Erick XIV. from a hovel, and placed amidst unusual splendour on a throne, again at the downfall of her cruel husband to descend to poverty and die in misery.

In the vaults beneath were buried the noblest and the wisest of Finland's children. We saw their bodies in a singular state of preservation, torn from the coffins, and scattered about pell-mell. The most celebrated were placed in conspicuous situations, to be displayed to strangers. Amongst them was one of a philosopher : the size and form of the skull at once indicated the man to have possessed a large brain and unusual intellect. " Step down and see how the professor looks," said our guide, in a jocose and flippant manner. " MODERN TOWN OF ABO. tempora ! O mores ! " Here were the remains of one, who, perhaps in his day, exercised a powerful influence on all around him ; who may have been beloved by his countrymen in life, and lamented in death ; now become the subject of a jest ; the object of a passing sneer from a vulgar mind.

The observatory stands on a hill, but is no longer used for its original purpose. A fine view is obtained from its roof, over the town and country ; the latter consisting of dreary-looking rocks, and granite boulders, interspersed with small valleys, miserably cultivated, and badly fenced, which rather added to, than diminished, its wild and inhospitable appearance. The modern town of Abo has immensely wide streets, and the houses, nearly all of wood, are de tached ; so that the extent of ground occupied is enorrqpus, in comparison to the number of inhabitants. This arrangement is very good in case of fire ; but in other respects has many inconveniences, and throws a melancholy air over the place, which looks quite deserted. Here are some cotton manufactories on a limited scale. We attended the small well-fitted theatre, witnessed good acting by native players, and heard Kellermann, then on his way to St. Petersburg, execute some exquisite pieces on the violoncello.

After five days' sojourn, when we had not only exhausted the few objects to be seen in the town, but driven on every available road in the neighbourhood, HELSINGFORS. we found ourselves on board the good steamer " Stor fursten," bound to Helsingfors, Revel, and Petersburg. A heavy fog hung over the Aura at the time of our embarkation, and our departure was delayed two hours on that account ; but once away, we were soon again in the midst of similar scenery to that on the coast of Sweden ; consisting of innumerable islands and rocks of granite, wooded or bare, resembling each other, but never monotonous, and often highly picturesque. The channels being at times exceedingly narrow, and the navigation intricate and diffi cult. Towards the evening the scene was enlivened by the appearance of numerous small craft, wafted slowly along, with every sail set, before the light fair wind.

At length the dome of the Russian church at Helsingfors came into view ; and shortly afterwards we passed close to the guns of the great fortress of Sweaborg, which, by the bright twilight, looked mys teriously severe and imposing. Although it was late before the vessel was moored, we determined to land and take a general view of the town. Helsingfors was constituted the capital of Finland in 1819, and the seat of the University, after the de structive fire in Abo, whence that part of the library which had been saved was brought. The place, therefore, is quite new; the houses, built of brick, stuccoed, and coloured white, are good, and of Grecian architecture ; the public buildings fine, and being in b3 A VIEW FROM THE HARBOUR. wide streets and on open places, were shown off to the greatest advantage by the soft light we had chosen for their first inspection.

Daylight did not alter our favourable impressions ; for although some imperfections were discovered which had been concealed the previous night, yet Helsing fors must be pronounced, on the whole, a handsome town ; and seen from the harbour presented a charming, even a bewitching, aspect. In the foreground were hundreds of market-boats, with a busy multitude on the shore, moving to and fro, a picture full of life and animation. Ranges of noble buildings lined the quays, above which rose other splendid edifices — the university, senate-house, courts of justice, observatory, and palace of the governor, displaying their painted iron roofs, of brown or green, yellow or red. Crowning, finishing, and adorning the whole, stands a beautiful Russian church, built upon a rock, with the columns in its portico of polished granite, supporting a pediment, on which are statues ; while a large purple dome, spangled with golden stars, springs from the centre of this elevated temple.

If Russia has neglected and ill-used her stepchild, poor deserted Abo, she has not been sparing in her favours to the offspring of her own creation ; and few towns in Europe of twenty thousand inhabitants can boast a more attractive appearance. But it is opposed, in every respect, to the simplicity of taste FORTRESS OF SWEABORG. 11 which characterises the Fins. It recals none of their cherished traditions, but stands boldly forward, ever reminding them of the most sorrowful point in their history — the moment when their nation ceased to exist ; when from children of freedom, they were changed to bondsmen and slaves. Helsingfors is visited in the summer as a watering place by the wealthy Russian nobility ; and an elegant bathing establishment is much frequented. It has always a large garrison ; but the great majority of the troops are quartered at Sweaborg.

Part of the Baltic fleet is moored here in the winter, at which season it is exceedingly gay. The harbour is remarkably fine. Closed in on every side, and sheltered from all winds, it is capable of containing the largest fleets, protected towards the sea by the gigantic fortress of Sweaborg, of immense natural and artificial strength. Indeed, it conveyed to us the idea of being even stronger than Cronstadt, or Sevastopol, though not so showy and effective in appearance. Built upon seven islands of granite, many of its bastions and batteries are cut in the solid rock, and every available spot where they can be placed with advantage, bristles with cannons of the heaviest metal, and largest caliber. The principal entrance to the harbour is narrow, and as we passed out of it, we looked into the great yawning mouths of these huge guns, which appeared ready to vomit forth their deadly projectiles.

ADMIRAL CRONSTADT. 12 The reason will probably ever remain a mystery which induced the Swedish Admiral Cronstadt, in 1808 to hand this magnificent fortress over to the, Russians, when he had a garrison of nearly eight thousand men, an immense supply of ammunition and provisions, and was moreover superior in numbers to his assailants. Such an act is totally unprecedented in history, and could only be accounted for by supposing that Russia had resorted to her usual system of offering an immense bribe, and had thus induced him to betray his country ; or that he was the basest of all cowards. Yet neither of these reasons is supposed to have actuated him. A man of exalted courage, and presumed integrity, he had often before been tried and proved in the service of his country. He never returned to it, however, to give an ex planation of his motives for so extraordinary and unjustifiable an act ; but preferred remaining in the Russian dominions, where, a few years after, he died, it is said, of a broken and mortified spirit.

Whatever obscurity hangs over the cause of Admiral Cronstadt's having thus violated his trust, or deserted his post, the effect was fatal and melancholy for Finland. It blasted, by one rude and sudden blow, every fondly-clinging hope of the nation, and crushed the generous and noble aspira tions of an ardent, intelligent, and enterprising people. We had some conversation with educated Fins, and never did we listen to more stirring words of burning ALEXANDER AND THE FINS. hatred, towards the oppressors of their country, who are doing everything they possibly can to blot out the memory of their dearest associations and traditions, by curtailing the national literature, and restricting education within the arbitrary limits permitted by a scrutinizing police. When Finland fell under the Russian yoke in 1808, the Emperor Alexander, overjoyed at the possession of so valuable an addition to his empire, and perhaps feeling that he was dealing with a 23eople who deserved to be treated in a more liberal and generous spirit than the craven slaves over whom he ruled in the full swing of despotism, hastened to confirm the Fins in many of their privileges.