South American and the Pacific, comprising a Journey across the Pampas and the Andes, from Buenos Ayres to Valparaiso, Lima and Panama. ... To which are added plans and statements for establishing steam navigation on the Pacific

Front matter

SOUTH AMERICA AND THE PACIFIC; COMPRISING A JOURNEY ACROSS THE PAMPAS AND THE ANDES, FROM BUENOS AYRES TO VALPARAISO, LIMA, AND PANAMA; 8SRit!j Xtratarfts upon tfie Es-fjmus. BY THE HON. P. CAMPBELL SCARLETT. TO WHICH ARE ANNEXED PLANS AND STATEMENTS FOR ESTABLISHING STEAM NAVIGATION ON THE PACIFIC IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON : HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER; SOLD ALSO BY GABRIEL WARISU, LIBRARIAN TO THE BRITISH EMBASSY QUAI VOLTAIRE, PARIS. 1838. WHITING, ftStUFOtff-hoi^E, STRAND. DEDICATION TO HAMILTON HAMILTON, ESQ., HER MAJESTy'senvOY EXTRAORDINARY AND MINISTER PLENIPOTENTIARY AT THE COURT OF BRAZIL, &(* . Abinger Hall, January, 1838. My dear Sir, The dedication of these pages to you is but a poor acknowledgment of the very great kindness and hospitality I received under your roof at Buenos Ayres.

When I returned to England, I had no intention of publishing the notes which I made, occasionally, and irregularly, during my rambles, without any other design DEDICATION. than that of impressing more deeply upon my own mind the recollection of a short visit to a very interesting part of the world. Since that time, as a remedy against too much leisure at home, I resolved, at the persuasion of some friends, to arrange the materials I possessed, not for the purpose of appearing in print, but that the members of my family and a few other persons might be able to read them in a more convenient form. Whilst engaged in this work, I received communications from South America, which induced me to think that if I published the notes I had made there, a por tion of which I had already thought it my duty to submit to the Foreign Office, the result might be attended with some practical utility.

In Chile, I had made acquaintance with Mr. Wheelwright, a gentleman from the United States, who was formerly North American consul at Guayaquil, and who had resided many years in South America. He was at that time endeavouring to procure decrees from DEDICATION. V the governments of several states in favour of a plan for effecting steam navigation on the western coast of America. Having obtained these, he came to England to form a British company sanctioned by a royal charter, and I have reason to believe that his project will be crowned with success. His plans appeared to me ably and accurately stated, and are consistent with the im pressions I received myself in those countries. Feeling the advantages which must accrue to the commercial world from the establish- ' ment of steam communication along the whole western coast of the Americas, particularly if it could, hereafter, be combined with railroads or canals across Central Ame rica or the Isthmus to unite the two seas, I determined, with Mr. Wheelwright's assistance, to bring his observations as well as my own on the same subject, more under public notice.

Chapter I

Farewell to England — Lord Mount Edgecumbe's gardens — Miseries of a sea-voyage — Sea-sickness and its cure — Gun-room politeness — Moustafa, the German renegade — French vessel in sight — Heavy swell — Porto Santo — Its first discovery — Arrival at Madeira . 1

Chapter II

Visit to the governor — A Portuguese garden — A Pedroite dinner-party — Madeira ladies — An attack and retreat — Unpleasant company — A Portuguese quinta or country-house — Dinner at Funchal — Masquerade — Portuguese beauties — A native dance — A convent and a beautiful nun— Departure from Madeira. . 10

Chapter III

Flying-fish — Harpooning — Heat — Monotony of sea-life — Moonlight at sea — Liquid illumination — Phosphorescent animalculæ — Approach to the line — A suspicious craft — Crossing the line — Neptunian ceremonies — The trade-winds — Arrival at Rio — Unequalled beauty of the scene . . . . 21

Chapter IV

Mr. Gore Ouselev's villa — Ball at the Russian consul- X CONTENTS. general's — External aspect of Rio — State of the slave population — Chamber of deputies — A diplomatic din ner — Botanical garden — Visit to a sugar estate — Emigration to the Brazils — Night scenery— Fireflies — Bats a la' Freischutz — Return to Rio . 33

Chapter V

Departure from Rio — Speedy change of climate — Population of the Banda — Proverbially healthy climate — Dictatorship of Rosas — Universal anarchy — Extraordinary accuracy of nautical calculations — La Plata — Dangers of its navigation — -Monte Video the rival of Buenos Ayres — General Rosas — Description of the town — Costume of the Gauchos — Arrival at Buenos Ayres ... 50

Chapter VI

Description of a quinta — Scenery on the river — Horsedriving — Description of the town — Scene of English dishonour — Winter in Buenos Ayres — The green humming-bird — -Fruits and plants of the climate — Game — Fishing on horseback — Equestrian order of beggars .... .68 CHAPTER vii. An October spring — Museum of Natural History — Chamber of deputies — Public library — Spanish politeness — Gaucho character, and cruelty — A Buenos Ayres Smithfield — The lasso — Stars of the southern hemisphere — Spanish ladies . . 81

Chapter VIII

Primitive country — Journey across the plain — Dangers from the Indians — Boundless views — A solitary farm — Horse-breaking on the Pampas — Rough riding — Marking the wild cattle — Return to Buenos Ayres — Peru- CONTENTS. XI vian jealousy — American naval officers — Yankee yarns — A pleasant ride ! . .98 98

Chapter IX

Return to Monte Video — Dr. Maclean — Projected journey across the Pampas — Singular adventure of a boat's crew — The Falkland Islands — Necessaries of a journey across the Pampas — Environs of Monte Video — Horses killed for their hides — Results of republicanism — South-American statesmen — Government of Monte Video — Vegetable productions — Female grace — An eccentric despot — A favoured country — Policy of Dr. Francia — Curious anecdotes of him 113

Chapter X

Return to Buenos Ayres — A giant guide — Preparations for starting — A singular cortege — First day's adventures — A post-house on the Pampas — A favourite tune — An ill-conditioned postmaster — Delays and disasters — A civil landlady, but nothing to eat — An awkward encounter — An infant equestrian — A night scene — The troubles of too many conveniences — Society on the Pampas — More expeditious travelling — Friends in need . . . .145

Chapter XI

Improved travelling — Biscachas and owls — A supper on the Pampas — Mate — Paroquets, ostriches, and deer — The Indians — Military expedition against them — A waggon train — A solitary shopkeeper — A foray of the Indians — Female wonder — Mosquitoes — Quick travelling — Wire spectacles — Rivers of the plain — Algaroba — Guenbe — Bread not a necessary of life . 177

Chapter XII

Iguana and vultures — Approach to the Andes — The CONTENTS. plague of mosquitoes— Dread of Indians— Politeness on the Pampas— A false alarm— A pleasant night's rest — Improved climate and renewed health — Results of an Indian visitation— Another false alarm— A hard bed— Arrival at St. Luis. . . .196

Chapter XIII

St. Luis — Inopportune curiosity — Spanish credulity — Ill-timed severity — Represa — An agreeable disappointment — A restive horse— A grumbling postmistress — A horse-hunt — Distant view of the Andes — Crossing a river — Foxes and hares . . . 224

Chapter XIV

A loss and recovery — An overthrow — La Rosa — Improving aspect of the country and the people — Handsome treatment — First sight of Mendoza — Arrival there— Quick travelling — Mendoza — Its architecture — Public promenade — The Andes — Equestrian habits of the people — Mendoza wine — Products of the soil — Superiority of Mendoza to Buenos Ayres — An agreeable arrival — Silver-mines of these regions . 239

Chapter XV

Preparations for leaving Mendoza — Provisions for th* journey — Curiosity- — Departure — Halt for the night — Learned ladies — Ercilla's poetry, and the aborigines of the Pampas — Retrospective glance at the plains and their inhabitants — Sketch of the Patagonians . 257 Appendix ..... SOUTH AMERICA AND THE PACIFIC.

Chapter I

Farewell to England — Lord Mount Edgecumbe's gardens — Miseries of a sea-voyage — Sea-sickness and its cure — Gun-room — Moustafa — French vessel in sight — Heavy swell — Porto Santo — Its first discovery — Arrival at Madeira. August 2d, 1834, H. M. S. North Star, on her passage to Madeira. Being attached to H. M. mission at Rio de Janeiro, I took leave of England at Plymouth. I embarked, indeed, at Ports mouth, with Mr. and Mrs. Hamilton, who are VOL. I. B FAREWELL TO ENGLAND. going out to Buenos Ayres ; but we had occa sion to put into the harbour at Plymouth, that Mr. Hamilton might receive there his final instructions from the Foreign Office, and I took this opportunity of once more bidding England farewell, in Lord Mount Edgecumbe's beautiful gardens on the opposite side of the river to the town.

These grounds are laid out with great taste, and the flourishing condition of a variety of foreign shrubs, which are seldom found in these latitudes, seems to indicate a resemblance in soil and climate with those parts of the globe which are more favoured by the sun. I may mention, particularly, the great number of cork-trees which flourish admirably there, and grow into large timber. I lingered long on the green velvet turf, which is England's boast, above all other SEA-SICKNESS. 3 countries ; whilst a brilliant sunset gave this " gem of the sea" additional charms, and in creased my regret at leaving so lovely a scene, to be conveyed in a wooden prison over the immeasurable waste of waters. Are there not miseries enough at sea, cramped up in so narrow a space, — pitching, tossing, creaking, and lurching, — without adding sea sickness to the list !

I am now, however, recovering a little from the first agonies of this grievous malady ; but there are many other persons in the ship who are still in the height of their suffering. A cook-boy, especially, is so ill and exhausted, that the surgeons think his life in danger ; and a great Newfoundland puppy is "as sick as a dog." The North Star is a slow sailer, but by the good seamanship of her officers, and a crowd B CURE FOR SEA-SICKNESS. of canvass, we hope to reach Madeira within ten days. The wind is fair, and the swell diminishes as we leave the bay of Biscay behind us. One word more about sea-sickness. Half the world who are not sick, try to persuade the other half that eating is the best thing to cure it. This is an absurd fallacy. Sea-sickness pro duces a still weaker state of the stomach than that which causes it ; for strong stomachs are never very sick ; and to give double work to the digestive organs, when they are unfit to work at all, is only making matters worse.

Two days restriction to tea and toast alone, will, I am confident, pave the way to convalescence. Further indulgence may be per mitted when the appetite is quite restored; but not before. Monday, 4th. — The weather continues MOUSTAFA. 5 fine, with a favourable steady breeze from the N.E. Yesterday, being Sunday, we all dined with the gun-room officers. The lieutenants always invite their captain on a Sunday. I was never in the society of naval officers without finding them well-informed and agreeable. I love their frank and generous hearts of British oak, and as for Jack, who can see him without admiration, especially when he dances a reel on the forecastle ? To-day, for the first time since I left the shore, my head has suffered me to read. I have begun Morier's novel, Ayesha. Old Moustafa, the renegade German, was a janissary of the palace at Pera.

His character for goodnature, oddity, and cowardice, is faithfully represented. When Sir Stratford Canning left Constanti nople, Moustafa's fears of being murdered, if VOL. I. B G HEAVV SWELL. he remained behind, induced him to solicit, un successfully, a place under my protection as valet. Often have I wandered over Istam bo\il with him. He had been in London, and was not a little proud uf talking of Piccmiitli/ Street, and Westminster Street. After the Bri tish embassy left Constantinople he entered the Dutch ambassador's service as a guard ; but. he is now restored to his former employment. 5th. — French vessel in sight — delightful wea ther — breeze freshening. I have been reading an account of Madeira, which is described ns a sort of earthly paradise, and the land of hospitality. 6th. — Heavy swell all last night — worse to day — puddings* and fiddles in great request, to keep the dishes from dancing — hope to arrive the day after to-morrow at Madeira.

Began read- * Name* given at aca to small sand-bags and rnrds 'tretclied across the tables PORTO SANTO. ing a history of the settlement of the South- American colonies, and Columbus's first discovery of the Continent, which is very in teresting. 7th. — Running by Porto Santo, a craggy picturesque little island, forty miles north of Madeira. It has a few fishermen's huts ; and one solitary date-tree is all it boasts of wood. Porto Santo is said to have been discovered by John Gonzales Zarco, and Tristan Vaz, two gentlemen of the household of Henry, Duke de Viseo, a nephew of Henry IV. of England. These two mariners were instructed to double Cape Bojador, and thence to steer southwards. A storm drove their vessels to the west, and when they expected every moment to perish, they were thrown on an unknown island, which, from their happy escape, they named Porto Santo.

ARRIVAL AT MADEIRA. The discovery of this rock was considered of such importance, that they immediately returned to Portugal with the news. Next year, Henry sent out a colony, and when they began to be established there, they observed towards the south, a fixed spot in the horizon, like a small black cloud. By degrees they were led to conjecture that it might be land, and steering towards it, they arrived at a considerable island, uninhabited, and covered with wood, — which, on that account, they called Madeira.* 8th. — This morning at four o'clock, the officer of the watch awoke me, to say we were close to Madeira. I jumped out of my cot, put on a cloak, and ran on deck. We were sailing by the island, with a fresh breeze, and in a smooth sea ; but as we got in under the land, it fell * Spanish word for wood.

ARRIVAL AT MADEIRA. calm, and we had a heavy swell, which was very disagreeable. At mid-day we came to anchor opposite the fort of Funchal. The appearance of the island in the morning had disappointed me. It was then like a burnt up brown mountain, rising out of the sea, without any verdure; but, approaching Funchal, the white town, the villas, and the woods, are remarkably picturesque. A Portuguese frigate, commanded by Cap tain Bertrand, alias Price (why he changed his name I know not), has brought out a Pedroite governor from Lisbon, to supersede Don Mi guel's man, who has taken himself off to Ter ceira. We saluted Donna Maria's flag with fifteen guns, and were answered by the fort. b3 MADEIRA.

Chapter II. Madeira

Visit to the governor — A Portuguese garden — A Pedroite dinner-party — Madeira ladies — An attack and retreat— Unpleasant company — A Portuguese quinta or country-house— Dinner at Funchal — Masquerade- Portuguese beauties — A native dance — A convent and a beautiful nun — Departure from Madeira. On landing with Mr. Hamilton and the captain, w*e met the consul, Mr. Veitch, walking down to welcome us, and we went with him to call on the governor. His name is Al Buquer que, and I believe he was a minister in Pal mella's government. He received our party MADEIRA. very courteously, but, from the unfurnished state of his residence, to which he had only come the day before, he was unable to offer the British minister and his friends any hos pitality. The Hamiltons have been invited by Mr. Phelps, to live with him at Funchal, during our stay at Madeira ; but the Captain and myself have accepted Mr. Veitch's invitation to the consulate.

The consul's garden is full of tropical fruit-trees and flowers, and I am struck with the brilliancy of the Hibiscus, and the size of the Verbena shrub, — which latter has much broader leaves than I ever saw in England. The Papau-tree offers a curious contrast to the trees of our northern region. It resembles a little the cocoa-nut. 10th. — We were invited to dine to-day with a Portuguese gentleman, who had a large party of Pedroites, to meet Captain Bertrand. During MADEIRA. the interregnum of governors, Captain Bertrand acted as chief himself, and the dinner was expressly to him. Among the guests was a lieutenant on board the frigate, who is a natural son of Don Pedro, and very like him. There were about thirty persons assembled, and every body talked very loud, and drank a great deal of Madeira, which was accompanied by constant toasts, and roars of nine times nine, shouted out with a vehemence I never witnessed any where else.

On endeavouring, after dinner, to effect our escape before the rest of the party had begun to move, we encountered, in a long room through w*hich we had to pass, a whole bevy of dark-eyed Madeira ladies. In spite of their attractions, we felt no desire to abandon our intention of retiring ; but there was no choice, and we were obliged to remain for some time, waiting and watching some MADEIRA. 13 decent occasion for retreating. There was to be a ball, and these belle brunettes were all ranged against a wall, on a long bench, ex pecting their Portuguese beaus from the room we had left. Presently they came in, brim full of Madeira and admiration; and whilst the greeting was going on, we took that opportu nity to slip away. 11th. — Such a night as the last, I hope never to pass again. The consul not having expected company, and his house being under repair, he was unable to give me a better bedroom than one without any plaster to the ceiling.

Soon after I had put out the candle, I felt certain indications that I was attacked by a numerous host of insects, which, though pigmy in size, seemed, like the giant to " smell the blood of an Englishman." The sense of feeling was not the only sense they offended. Imagination, no doubt, added MADEIRA. to my torments. I conceived that they were descending from the uncovered ceiling in my riads, upon their unhappy prey. Resistance was vain — I could find no safety but in retreat. I determined to seek refuge upon a sofa in the drawing-room, and seizing one of the sheets, I first shook it with all my might, to dislodge the enemy, and then throwing it round me, fled from the field of blood, groping my way as softly as I could in the dark, to the drawing room. I had made sufficient noise, however, to disturb a servant in an adjoining apartment.

Believing me to be a robber, he entered the drawing-room immediately after me, armed with a cudgel, a lighted candle, and accom panied by a huge dog. As the light was thrown upon a bloody spectre in a white sheet, his step was suddenly arrested, and he seemed MADEIRA. 15 to be invoking the " angels and ministers of grace," whilst I explained to him, in the few unearthly sounds which I could utter in his language, from whence I came, and what was my mission. He appeared satisfied, and took his leave, but not without the precaution of placing his dog on guard, to watch my future movements. The suspicions of the dog were not so soon allayed as those of his master. He took his position near me, and, as I imagined at first, intended by an occasional growl only to give me notice that the sentry was on the alert.

I soon found, however, that the poor animal was suffering the same sort of torture as that from which I had escaped, though pro bably from a minuter race of insects, which had gathered upon him from the floor. Against their incessant assaults, he made a vigorous and unremitting defence, by an interminable MADEIRA. succession of growling, whining, champing with his jaws, scratching, and, as he scratched, thumping the floor with his heavy hinder feet. I watched with sleepless and feverish impatience the approach of day, and hastened at the first dawn to rescue myself from my companions of the night. Peace be to the house of the consul ! I shall never disturb it again at midnight. 12th. — To-day, the party from the North Star were invited to meet us, and proceed to Mr. Phelps's country-house, up the mountain.

We rode upon little rough-shod horses, and spent the day at his quinta. The view from it is delightful. Situated in the midst of woods, vineyards, and gardens, it looks down on the blue bay beneath, which is studded with ships. Our descent was annoying, from the steepness, and the slippery stones with which the road is MADEIRA. in part paved. The guides, who followed our ponies, pricked them forward with the point of their sticks, and often forced us to gallop, at the risk of breaking our necks, whilst they roared out a drunken chorus all the way down, with perfect indifference to our fate. It was dark and late when I reached the consul's house ; and full of the recollection of the last night's horrors, I sent down my lug gage to the shore, and found a boat to carry me to my cot in the North Star. 14th. — At sea.

I dined at a Portuguese merchant's the day before we sailed from Funchal. He had included me among the officers of the ship, with whom he was personally acquainted, and I had no reason to repent having accepted the invitation. His Madeira wines were all excellent, the dinner sumptuous, and his man ners, and reception of his guests, obliging and MADEIRA. in good taste ; in addition to which, he speaks English perfectly. After dinner we all went to a masquerade ball, given by the consul. The gardens were brilliantly lighted with coloured glass lamps, hung in festoons about the shrubs. The music was the worst feature of the evening, being an unskilful band from the Portuguese frigate. But though our ears were disappointed, ample amends were afforded to our eyes, by the sight of the Madeira beauties in their native costume, especially of one to whom a gallant officer in the room had evidently lost his heart.

There was a native dance performed by a party hired for the purpose. The dancers form a circle, and use handkerchiefs to connect the one with the other. It resembles in its slow movement and gestures the Romaic dance MADEIRA. 19 of modern Greece. At last I became tired, and, as nobody else would accompany me, I groped my way alone to the sea-shore, along the narrow, unlighted streets ; and after being roughly challenged several times, by a sentinel on guard near the beach, I stumbled over the sleepy boatmen, who, with my help, launched a boat, in which I was conveyed on board. I visited a convent in the morning, with Captain Harcourt and the Hamiltons. Through the gratings we were permitted to see the face of a nun, called Clementina, who has long been celebrated as a beauty — too long indeed — as her charms are now rapidly fading away, before the quickening sun of her native island.

We sailed yesterday morning, but it was nearly dark before we lost sight of the white houses, scattered villas, and green woods of MADEIRA. Funchal. An East India ship weighed with us, having first sent on board the North Star to say she desired to be convoyed across the Line, where acts of piracy are very frequent.

Chapter III. Voyage To Rio

Flying-fish — Harpooning — Heat — Monotony of sea life — Moonlight at sea — Liquid illumination — Phosphorescent animalculæ — Approach to the line — A suspicious craft — Crossing the line — Neptunian ceremonies — The trade-winds — Arrival at Rio — Unequalled beauty of the scene. Saturday, August 6th. Latitude 24° 30', longitude 21° 10'. Roll ing along with the wind aft, the very same breeze from the N. E. which brought us to Madeira, but now a steady trade-wind. East- Indiaman in sight, crowding all sail to keep up with us, in spite of our slow sailing. The flying-fish have begun to appear. They skim over the tops of the wave, to avoid the vessel, and the large fish in pursuit of them. These last frequently jump high out of the water, in the endeavour to spring upon their flying prey. At first I took these fish for swallows ; as their skimming motion, and long fins, resemble that bird when on the wing.

They are often half a minute suspended above the sea. Officers harpooning at the end of the stud ding-sail boom, but without success. Fish called Albicore, not so large as sharks, are swimming all round the ship. One of them, which was struck several days ago, still keeps with us. We can identify him by an injury on his scales, inflicted by the point of the har poon. The glass is at 78° in the shade, and our rate not less than eight miles per hour. I had a window cut in my cabin-door to-day, for ventilation. Friday, 21st. — Latitude 13° 45', longitude 26° 11'. Same wind, N. E. trade. Very little motion. Great monotony and want of excitement. Whist every night in the cabin. Read ing, walking, and eating, employ the day. I sometimes walk part of the middle watch with the officer on duty. Then is the time to ad mire the moonlight streaming along the waves, which, breaking at their summit, appear all be spangled with liquid illumination ; or if a cloud obscures the moon, how beautiful is the effect of the phosphorescent water, through which the ship is ploughing her " arrowy" way !

I fished out of the cabin-window w*ith a towel, for some of these glowing flakes astern, and on straining through the towel the ani malcula which cause them, and shaking it in the dark, those which adhered to it still emitted a pale ray of fight, like a spark not quite extin guished. They appeared in the towel to be little black specks, not so large as a pin's head. We shall soon reach the line. We have already outstrips the sun on his return to the southern hemisphere, and the climate begins to be insupportably hot. The glass in the shade is at 86°. Sept. 1st. — For a week we had S.W. winds in our teeth, with a head sea ; which last ac companiment, as usual, often sent me to my cot in the daytime. The East-Indiaman has disappeared for the last week. I conclude she thought we were going to cross the line too near the coast of Brazil ; which is the modern man-of-war method of making a passage, to avoid the calms which prevail to the eastward.

We met an American man-of-war schooner, yesterday, and shortened sail at her signal, to speak with her. She was from Boston, called the Enterprise, and bound, like ourselves, to Rio. She looked very piratical, and had the Indiaman seen her where we met her, on the line, her appearance was calculated to have created much alarm to a merchant vessel, on the peace establishment ; for piracy in these quarters is very common. I observed that most of the officers were without uniforms, and altogether, a more suspicious looking craft is rarely seen. Sept. 3d. — We crossed the line yesterday, and to-day are undergoing Neptune's discipline of ducking. Although the officers and passen gers generally escape the most painful part of the ordeal, to which the more humble unin itiated are subject, they are often drenched to the skin, as I have been for the last hour, on the deck, with buckets of water.

VOL. I. C It was last night, on approaching the equator, that Neptune hailed the North Star, from under the bowsprit, and promised to pay his children a visit next day, to give them " a taste of the line." This communication was repeated in a dripping despatch, thrown from the chains by an unseen triton, over the side, and directed to the captain. A barrel of flaming pitch was next observed, floating down to leeward, whilst a bugle announced a farewell for the night from Neptune, whose fiery car was supposed to be bearing him away to his bed on the top of the waves. This morning, after breakfast, a motley pro cession began, consisting of Neptune and all his family, cooks, apothecaries, &c. The god himself was seated in a car with Mrs. Neptune, whose red nose told a tale of grog ; then fol lowed innumerable tritons, and other odd and boisterous fishes.

The rough work then be gan, with such of Neptune's darlings as had not crossed the line. The having been sub jected to a similar seasoning on crossing the tropic, in a passage to the West Indies, does not exempt those only half-initiated unfortu nates who are for the first time crossing the equator into another hemisphere. All hands, old and young, great and small, must be blind folded in turn, and led between two constables into Neptune's august presence, like a wild ele phant between two tame ones. Here the apo thecary feels the patient's pulse, and detecting at once his malady, in a twinkling administers a pill of no savoury stuff for his benefit. This calls of course for a remonstrance, upon which a paint brush of tar is crammed into the speaker's open mouth to settle his stomach, and his face is bedaubed all over besides.