A Journal of a Residence in the Esmailla of Abd-el-Kader; and of travels in Morocco and Algiers

Introduction

. At the period that the " Convenio of Vergara" took place, I was serving in the 18th Spanish In fantry, and in consequence of the articles of that treaty, by which the Carlist officers were incorpo rated into the regiments of Isabella IL, it became impossible for any one who acted from principle, to remain under the command of those, who had sup ported the cause of despotism, and had in many instances been the inhuman and cold-blooded mur derers of our friends and companions in arms. a VI

INTRODUCTION.

. From wounds received I passed the Medical Board as unfit for service in the Infantry, and although, according to the Spanish Articles of War, I was entitled to be passed to a cavalry regiment, yet I declined solely for the above reasons, as I should have been equally under the command of my former antagonists. I therefore retired from the service, with the full intention of proceeding to Tegedempt to join the Emir Abd-el-Kader, whose glorious resistance against the united power of the French nation, inspired me with admiration, at that time only considering him in the light of an Arab chief. In pursuance of my resolution thus formed, I went to Madrid, and from thence was proceeding to Gibraltar, when the celebrated " Pronuncia mento" of September 1840 took place. I had at this period reached Benamehi in Andalusia, but after having so long defended the cause of liberty, I found this was not the time to desert my colours,

INTRODUCTION.

. VII and consequently assisted Colonel Don Jose Po viano and General Mendez Vigo to the utmost of my abilities, and did not leave them until the present Regent of Spain, the brave Duke of La Vittoria, openly acknowledged the Junta of Madrid. Continuing my journey I arrived at Algueciras, where I became acquainted with Mr. Mannucci, at that time charge d'affaires to His Royal Highness the Emir Abd-el-Kader, and accepted the appoint ment of chief of the Emir's staff. On my arrival at the court of the Emir, I soon became so great an admirer of His Royal Highness's liberal policy, that I considered I should render him a far more important service by remaining at the Esmailla, and giving the world at large a correct account of the state of his country, than by being engaged at his side in active service ; more especially as, had I acted openly in direct hostility against the French, I should then have become liable to the Act of Council prohibiting British subjects entering into a

INTRODUCTION.

. VIII his service : but cautious feelings, as will hereafter be seen in these pages, gave way, with respect to the plan formed for the retaking of Mascara, wliich I conceived to be of the most material importance to His Royal Highness. The French having disembarked troops in Turk ish uniform at Mozaganem in October last, stating that they had come to the determination of giving up the whole of Algieria, excepting Algiers and Oran, to the Turkish government, and that the Allied Powers had appointed the son of the former Bey to the throne of his fathers, I advised His Royal Highness to submit his cause to the decision of those powers. The whole of this affaire turned out to be another ruse de guerre, to beguile the Arabs from their allegiance to their lawful sovereign. Had the French nation acted up to the treaty of Taafna, concluded by the present Governor-General of Al giers with the Emir, they might have remained

INTRODUCTION.

. IX in possession of the town of Algiers as well as the country ceded by that treaty, and then monopolized not only the trade of the Emir's territory, but also that of Tombuctoo, and the greater part of that of Morocco — no ! they broke their faith with a hero who knows but his word, and consequently from henceforth, he neither can, nor will he place any further confidence in them. I must say that the late Ministry which was at the helm of the affairs of the British nation, showed but little judgment in not insisting upon France redeeming the guarantee which she gave on the taking of Algiers, and thus submitting its ultimate fate to the decision of a Congress of the Allied Powers, notwithstanding which His Royal High ness the Emir now insists that this Congress shall take place, and is even willing to submit the justice of his cause to their decision. A most barbarous, unjustifiable, and inhuman warfare has been and still is carried on in Algiers, a

INTRODUCTION.

. X which cannot nor ever will be attended with any ultimate benefit to the French nation ; but it ruins British commerce in that part of the world, as seven millions sterling are about the average of the exports and imports of Algiers, including also the territory occupied by the French and that under the dominion of the Emir. My sole object in laying this Journal before the public, is to vindicate the character of His Royal Highness the Emir, and clear it from the asper sions thrown on it by the French papers ; and that he may be viewed in his real and true character, — that of a youthful hero, possessing a noble and generous mind : one who is incapable of treachery, and whose liberal policy and government, were he only on the throne of Algiers, would render that country, in a short time, the most enlightened under the Moslem sway. He looks towards the British nation as a friend of the brave and free ,* but our government cannot assist him in his glo-

INTRODUCTION.

. XI rious struggle for independence, although private individuals might do so. His cause is far more worthy of their philanthropy than that of the Greeks, being above all of the highest and greatest importance to the mercantile interest of the British nation. As far as the laws of my country will permit me, my services will ever be at the disposal of His Royal Highness ; but I have never yet drawn my sword in his cause, — nor would I do so, unless the blood was up, though it were in contravention to the laws of my country. I glory in the name of an Englishman, and should be sorry to risk its privi leges even for my dearest and nearest friend. Since I left His Royal Highness, nothing of con sequence has occurred, except the occupation of Tlemecen by the French. This the Emir fully expected ; therefore, at that moment, to avoid having his communication with Morocco cut off, he retired into the territory which he holds under V

INTRODUCTION.

. the Emperor, and caused his regular infantry to join him by way of the desert ; he then re-crossed the Taafna and attacked the French last month, wisely allowing them first to encumber themselves with plunder, in order that their resistance might be less effectual. The French state their loss to be about fifty-three men and three officers killed ; but His Royal Highness makes the amount three hundred, besides having re-captured the whole of the booty they had taken. — This is the chief whom the French reported to have been abandoned by all, and who had become a refugee in Morocco. The French papers now state the intentions of their government to be, to attack Angiers and Mogador, to revenge what they term the treachery of Muley Abd-Herramann. Are they aware that the Emperor is bound, by the ties of his religion, to protect the Emir ? and that whatever excuses the Emperor (not being possessed of a martial spirit) may be induced to offer, in order to avoid an open

INTRODUCTION.

. XIII rupture with them, yet he would rather choose the latter alternative, than attempt any violence against or attach any blame whatever to the Emir, who is considered as the Champion of his religion ; for under these circumstances he would be joined by the whole of Morocco against the Emperor, and the result would in all probability be a transfer of that sceptre to more martial hands. I shall conclude this by advising the French — whom I admire as brave soldiers — to retire from the fields of Africa, there being but little glory to be gained, and no chance of a monument being erected to their memory, like that of the bridge of Jena ; but most probably posterity may, at some futu/e period, behold one like that of Gergi1, in Tunis. London, April \<5th, 1842. 1 A tower exists at Gergi, in Tunis, built of the skulls of the Spaniards who fell in the wars of Charles the Fifth. PAGE CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Arrival at Tetaun — Description of the town — Hamsal — Tomb of Zuraara-el-Asara — Anecdote of an Arab muleteer — Town of Alcasar — Salah of Muley Ismael — Chemehah — Rerdad — Attack made by an Arab on Mr. Mannucci — Village of Worga — Charagah — Cobur-el-Abd — Salt mountains — Milky river — Embuhl — Narrow escape of the muleteer 1

Chapter II

Arrival at Taasa — Description of the town — Anecdote of Zuleika and Sabia — Plan formed by the robbers to attack us on leaving Taasa — Three deserters from the Emir's service apprehended and sent to Fez — Treatment of renegades in the Emperor's dominions — Insult offered me by a Reese chief, and the manner in which this affair was settled CONTENTS. PAGE

Chapter III

An Arab riot — Officers ofthe B. A.L. — Duties on exportation from Morocco, and monopolies ofthe Government — General Bugeaud assumes the command in Algiers — Attack of the robbers — Accident which befel Candido — Summons to arms of the faithful — Jewish Passover — Method of adorning the hands used by the ladies — Prospects of the African army — Heroes of Mazagran 39

Chapter IV

Arrival of Mr. Samuel Ebenzur — Presents sent by Hadgi Taleb, who recommends Mahomet a hamlooing for his conduct in Fez — Abd-el-Cream leaves us — Visit of two Marabouts — Departure from Taasa — Tomb of Muley Ismael — Number of the Caravan — Pilgrims to Mecca and Jerusalem — Village of Aza — Arrival at Oushdah — Population of Oushdah — Departure from that Place — Pass the Taafna — Tower of the Jew — Arrival at Tlemecen — Description of that town — Anecdote of Don Jose- — Treatment of the French Prisoners at Tlemecen — Difference of Government in Algiers and Morocco — Leave Tlemecen for Mascara — Anecdote of Hadgi Taleb 59

Chapter V

Departure from the Arab village — Arrival at the Camp of Bouhamidi — Presents to the Bey — French make a sortie from Oran — Visit to the Zaara — French in pursuit of our party — French column returns to Oran — Kermes — Aim Tetaun — Resume the Journey to Mascara — Mascara — Wool of Algiers — Cashmere goats — Convoy going to Blida taken by the Emir— Escape of the Emir from a French Square — Anecdote of De Casse CONTENTS. XVII 136

Chapter VI. Page

Arrival at Tegedempt — Description of Tegedempt — Musket manufactory — Six French killed by the Sultan — The Sultan's determination — Anecdote of female prisoners — The renegade Mustapha — Intendant General of Algiers — Anecdote of Abd-el-Kader — African Lions — French Column leave Oran — Evacuation of Tegedempt — Burning of Tegedempt — Head of the Mina — French enter Tegedempt — Return to the Esmailla 99

Chapter VII

Noble exploit of the royal Dukes — Burning of Taasa — Benabou — Evacuation of Mascara — Arrival at the camp of Hadgi Mustapha — Position of the French in Algiers — Tombs of the Sultan's family — Visit to the Aga of Mascara — Reception given us by His Royal Highness — The Sultan's Origin — History of his family — Noble conduct of the Sultan's father — First steps taken by the Sultan on assuming command — Treaty of Taafna — The seven Kalifats of Algiers — Manner of appointing Kaids, &c. — Proclamation of 1838 — Forged passports made by the French — Bemiallel commences the present war 117

Chapter VIII

Debates as to the retaking of Mascara — Mr. Nicolas Mannucci arrives via Tennez — Sultan's opinion as to the War — Secret mission of Mr. Mannucci — Attempt made to rob the Sultan's tent — Loss sustained by the French near Mascara— Execution of a robber — Justice of his sentence — Spartan customs of the Arabs — The Sultana — Punishment for supplying provisions to the enemy — Sortie made from Mascara — Trade to Tombuctoo and the Zaara — Signification of a razia — Irregular forces called out — Mines of Taasa— Sortie from Mozaganem — Arab pits for grain . . CONTENTS. XVIII

Chapter IX. Page

Departure of Candido — Reflections on his fate — Sortie from Mascara — Jews sold by auction — France and Spain — Arrival of supplies — Removal of the Esmailla — Attack on the French column — Peace declined by the Emir — Visit of a lion — Arrival of the regiment of Tegedempt — Rafael blows his finger off — Defensive position occupied by the French column — Arrival of the Sultan — The Sultan receives the people as a Marabout — Treason of the tribe of El Harar — Proclamation by the Emir — Deputation from the tribe of El Harar — Concentration of the inhabitants of Mascara — Masquerading of French troops 1S7

Chapter X

Convoy arrives from Fez — Object of the Sortie from Mozaganem — Belief of the Arabs as to Englishmen — Arrival of a Caravan from Tombuctoo — Price of Slaves — Information relative to Tombuctoo — Return of the expedition to Esdama — Descendants of Sodom — Mr. Nicolas Mannucci leaves for Algiers — Gil Ali's daughter — Interview with His Royal Highness — Visit of Benselm — Judgment on the Tribe of El Harar — Sickness in Tegedempt — Death of Muley Tijeb's wife — Attack made by the tribe of El Harar — Mr. N. Mannucci returns from Algiers — Razia made by the Sultan — Month of Rhamdan — Razia made by Bouhamidi 180

Chapter XI

Departure from Tegedempt — Resolution to visit Fez Ruse de guerre to pass through the robbers— Arrival at the camp of the Sultan — Reception given by the Sultan Inquiries made by the Sultan — French renegades Razia made on the robbers— Anecdote of a madman— Departure CONTENTS. XIX PAGE for Tlemecen — French sortie made from Oran — Anecdote relative to the month Rhamdan — Dispute with the Aga — Opinion as to the sortie from Oran — Arrival at Tlemecen — Candido's dream — French in march on Tlemecen — Eva cuation of Tlemecen — Sacking of Tlemecen — Confusion of a retreat — Rasel-bon — Treatment received from Melca der — Robbery by Melcader — Proceed to Kaaf — Arrival at Kaaf — Death of a Jewess 202

Chapter XII

Government of Kaaf — Description of Kaaf — Flying Marabout — Death of Candido — Plan formed to murder us — Bouhanani's proposal — Proceed to Oushdah — Route to Oushdah — Arrival at Oushdah — Departure for Fez — Part of the caravan plundered — Attack made by the Arabs of Angad — Discretion the better part of valour — Arrival at Taasa — Reception given me by a Marabout — Leave Taasa — Journey to Fez — Douars answerable for the caravans — Arrival at Fez 228

Chapter XIII

Entry into Fez — Emperor's body guard — Population of Fez — Departure from Fez — Riches of Fez — Punishments inflicted by. Mussulmen — Arab muleteers — Method of summary jurisdiction — Find a basket of money — Arrival at Tetaun A JOURNAL, Ssc.

Chapter I

Arrival at Tetaun — Description of the town — Hamsal — Tomb of Zumara-el-Asara — Anecdote of an Arab muleteer — Town of Alcasar — Salah of Muley Ismael — Chemehah Rerdad — Attack made by an Arab on Mr. Mannucci — Village of Worga— Charagah — Cobur-el-Abd — Salt mountains — Milky river— Embuhl — Narrow escape of the muleteer. On the 25th of February 1841, I left Gibraltar in the Chasse-maree, Sacree Famille, and arrived at Tetaun on the morning of the 26th, my friend Mr. Noel Mannucci having reached this place some days prior to my arrival. The town of Tetaun is beautifully situated on a hill, distant from the shore about two miles, and its population may be esti mated at about fifteen thousand, of whom four thousand are of the Jewish persuasion. The town, like most African ones, consists of houses one story high, some are, however, of two ; but all built with terrace roofs.

The streets are narrow, about six feet •f** DKSCRIFTION OF TETAUN. in width, and dirty in the extreme. The houses of many of the rich Jews are fitted up with ele gance, in the oriental style : with respect to the Mahomedan part of the city, being a Christian precluded me from an opportunity of visiting the interior of any of their dwellings. The Jews here, as in fact in all towns where the faith of Mahomet prevails, live in a separate part of the town, being considered and treated by the Moors as a race entirely beneath them. They have been allowed to continue in the countries inhabited by those professing the Mussulman faith, in consequence of an injunction made in the Koran, giving them protection, as a people who had submitted to the absolute dominion of their rulers, the lawgiver wisely imagining that their pacific habits would never endanger the Ottoman sway; the martial character of the Christians, however, caused their total exclusion from Africa ; but that they were looked upon by Mahomet with respect, may be adduced from the circumstance, that any Christian who adopts the Ottoman faith is entitled to wear the green turban, and is considered as sheriff, that is of the same rank as those of the Prophet's family.

The principal trade carried on in Morocco and Arabia, is by the Jewish merchants, but they are DESCRIPTION OF TETAUN. 3 often made to transfer their wealth to the coffers of their despotic masters, the contributions im posed on them being exceedingly high ; and when any individual is considered as having accumu lated considerable property, the authorities are ex tremely active in seeking some pretext to render themselves masters of it. Amongst the Jewesses are many good looking girls, but what most attracted my attention in these ladies, was their gold embroidered tunics, and sashes of various colours, richly woven with gold threads, or silver, according to the rank and wealth of the wearer. I must not forget to mention their earrings ; one young lady, the daughter of the Jew who acts as French vice consul, had her ears decorated with a pair about the size of a quoit, and so weighty that she had to fasten them up with gold chains to the tiara.

This is also an ornament which they pride themselves in having decorated with all kinds of precious stones, many thousand dollars are often expended on this peculiarly oriental and graceful head dress. Few wear stockings, but in lieu the lovely white ancle is surrounded by gold or silver anclets ; and the small foot is placed in a red Morocco slipper, which shows it off to the best advantage. b DEPARTURE FROM TETAUN. It was the 5th of March ere we could complete the arrangements required for our journey to Algiers, or rather to Tegedempt, the capital of the Emir's dominions. Our party consisted of Mr. Mannucci ; a young gentleman of the name of Domingo Picardo, a native of Gibraltar, who went as Mr. M.'s secretary ; a young Spanish lady named Madelena ; and her sister, a young girl about eight years old.

Madelena was tolerably good looking, but as the Spaniards say, faltaba sal en el bautismo, she had not much wit or grace. Mr. M. had brought her as a companion to his lady, who felt much the want of European society at the Esmailla, or residence of the Emir. Our servants consisted of a Spanish boy named Rafael, and a Brazilian black, on whom his godfathers and godmothers had bestowed the name of Candido ; his open, frank nature did not belie the name bestowed on him. Two Moors going to Tlemecen, the one called Mahomet and the other Mousa, with a Jew of Tetaun named Garcon, completed our personal suite. A Capatras, or head muleteer, with eight men, and eighteen mules and horses, formed the caravan. Such a motley group of Christians, Moors, Jews and Arabs, afforded an amusing scene ; French, Spanish, English and Arabic were alternately the medium of conversa- DESCRIPTION OF AN ARAB OFFICER. 5 tion ; the confusion of Babel came present to mind.

I must not forget a personage of no small importance in his own estimation, viz., an officer of the Emperor's service, named Abd-el-Cream, who ac companied us as a safeguard. A description of this personage will afford some amusement to those who have never had an opportunity of seeing the uniform of the Emperor of Morocco's troops. The individual himself was about five feet two inches in height, about fifty years old, and from the dilapi dated state of his grinders, one would have been led to imagine that he had been masticating ship biscuit all his life, in lieu of koskouso ; his face was weather beaten and wrinkled, and his form that of a bow, His dress, to commence from the feet upwards, consisted of a pair of yellow slippers, bare legs, a pair of wide blue trousers, brought in close below the knee, a white cotton shirt, in shape and make resembling a shift, the trousers and shirt being kept together by a red sash wound round the middle ; over these came the haik, which is a fine woollen blanket, and is wrapped round the body, falling over the right shoulder, a white woollen cloak with a hood, and over all one of the same description, of superfine English blue cloth, completed his dress.

The red high cap called " fez," is b DEPARTURE FROM TETAUN. that which is worn by all the troops. My worthy friend's arms consisted of a sword encased in a leather scabbard, whicli, like Hudibras's, for want of fighting appeared to have grown rusty, and slung round the neck by a worsted cord : he had also a long single barrelled Turkish gun, orna mented with ivory at the butt ; this he took great pride in, and carefully kept in a blue cloth case. We all put on Bernouses and red caps at the gates of Tetaun, in order not to be so much liable to the insults of the Moors ; to whom the sight of a Christian in the interior was quite a novelty, none having been allowed to pass through this country for many hundred years, without hav ing first embraced the Mahomedan faith ; nor should I now have been enabled to do so, had it not been for the protection afforded by the Em peror's government to Mr. M., as ambassador from His Royal Highness the Emir.

This circumstance also assured us in general a favourable reception from all true believers, the Emir being acknowledged universally as the defender of the faith, and the champion of the Holy war against the kaffers or infidels. On leaving Tetaun many of the inhabitants came out to see us off; one old grey headed patriarch HAMSAt,. approached us, and offered up a long prayer to God and Mahomet, for our prosperous journey to join the defender of his holy religion. In the after noon we reached a small village called Hamsal, about a league and a half distant from Tetaun, where we remained for the night. On our arrival, the chief of the tribe came to pay his respects to us ; he was a fine old man, his head was covered with the green turban, showing his claim to noble blood ; he remained for some time in conversation with Mr. M. who is a perfect master ofthe Arabic language, and took his leave with many assurances of his friendship.

We had just finished dinner when he again made his appearance, bringing in a large dish of koskouso * and stewed fowls, and a supply of bread, which had the appearance of pan cakes, but a little thicker. Mr. M. according to the Arab custom put his hand into the dish, and helped himself to a wing ; as in my travels to the South Seas, I had already been initiated into this way of eating, I followed his example, taking a leg, 1 Koskouso, the usual food which the Arabs live on, is a paste of flour, made into small balls, about half the size of a grain of rice, and dried in the sun or over the fire ; when required for use it is boiled with milk, or stewed with butter ; either way it is a most palatable food. B HAMSAL and having torn a pancake in two with my hands, commenced a second dinner, to the great delight of the Arab chief.

Madelena and Domingo, who had never left their homes, and were entirely strangers to any but European customs, stared at us with astonishment ; but we informed them that it was necessary here to follow the old proverb, " And when at Rome, to do as is done at Rome." In handing over the rum bottle, Domingo managed to spill some on the carpet near the Arab chief ; at which my friend Mr. M. was much annoyed, suspecting that there was as the French say anguille sous roche. I asked him what hidden sin there could be in spilling a few drops of agua ardiente, when he informed me that, had it fallen on any part of the Arab's dress, he could not have worn it again until it had been washed, as such was the Mahomedan law. I could not help remarking at the time, that although it was so heinous a sin to spill spirits on their garments, many of them had no objection to a drop on the sly ; one scamp, I forgot to mention, a renegade Jew, whom Mr. M. brought with him, had a particidar affection for the rosy God : this fellow, who on embracing the Mussulman faith had taken the name of Mahomet, would at TOMB OF ZUMMARA-EL-ASARA. any time he could get it, indulge in spirituous liquors to the greatest extent.

We left Hamsal early on the morning of the 6th, and passing Zib-el-Felit, or the holy mountain, we remained in the valley of that name for the night. The only thing worthy of notice in this day's journey was the having passed the tomb of Zummara-el-Asara, the mother of Mahomet. It will doubtless be imagined that some elegant or sumptuous mausoleum marks the spot where the ashes repose of her who brought into the world him, whom all acknowledge to have been one of the greatest lawgivers, since one-fourth of the known population of the world have adopted his tenets ; but this is not the case, a large yew-tree surrounded by a stone wall about four feet high alone marks this interesting and memorable spot — which is considered so sacred, that the Jews on their way to and from Fez are obliged to make a circuit of near a mile, in order that they may not profane this holy ground.

On the morning of the 7th we left this valley and encamped at a place called Benigafit. The fanaticism of our Arab muleteers amused me not a little ; they considered it a sin to touch one of us, and the only ones who would even give us the least b ANECDOTE OF ARAB MULETEER. assistance in mounting our horses were the two Arabs going to Tlemecen. The most comfortable way of travelling the long stages here, is that generally adopted by those who go with the caravans ; two boxes or bales being placed one on either side of the mule or horse, a bed, or a sufficient number of carpets are laid across to form an easy seat. Frequently on the journey, when tired, Mr. M. and myself dismounted our horses, availing ourselves of this mode of conveyance. The Arab who came with my horse refused to help me up on one of the baggage mules ; however, I brought him a httle to his senses in the course of the day.

I had got rather a-head of the caravan when my impudent guide thought proper to stop my horse : this was taking rather too great a liberty, I therefore gave him two smart blows with the butt-end of my fowling-piece over the shoulders, on receiving which he lifted his stick ; I immediately cocked my gun, but Mr. M. who now came up said some words in Arabic to the fellow, on which he assumed a less hostile position. A long discussion now took place which I did not understand ; however, from thence forward they treated me with more respect, al though, without doubt, in their hearts they were cursing me for a kilb, or a dog of a Christian. TOWN OF ALCASAR. In the evening we reached a few huts about a league from the small town of Alcasar ; here we remained for the night, and early on the morning of the 8th, we passed the town, going through the burying-ground of the Moors, which is situated im mediately outside the walls : this not a little surprised the Jews who accompanied us, as they are obliged to take a circuitous route to avoid going through this sacred ground, or, in fact, where any Santo or holy person has been buried ; they are not allowed even here to enter the town with their shoes on, and as to a Christian entering, that is out of the ques tion, unless you should feel any inclination to have all the rabble in the place at your heels, or perhaps to become a candidate for the honours of St. Ste phen's fate.