Sketches of Foreign Travel and life at sea; including a cruise on board a man-of-war, as also a visit to Spain, Portugal, the South of France, Italy, Sicily, Malta, the Ionian Islands, continental Greece, Liberia, and Brazil; and a treatise on the navy of the United States

Front matter

SKETCHES OF FOREI GN TRAVEL AND LIFE AT SEA; INCLUDING A CRUISE ON BOARD A MAN-OF-WAR, AS ALSO A VISIT TO SPAIN, PORTUGAL, THE SOUTH OF FRANCE, ITALY, SICILY, MALTA, THE IONIAN ISLANDS, CONTINENTAL GREECE, LIBERIA, AND BRAZIL; AND A TREATISE ON THE NAVY OF THE UNITED STATES. BY THE Rev. CHARLES ROCKWELL, LATE OF THE UNITED STATES NAVY. " It is a strange thing that in sea voyages, where there is nothing to be seen but sky and sea, men should make diaries, but in land travel wherein so much js to be observed, for the most part they omit it ; as if chance ytere sitter to be registered than observation: let diaries therefore be brought into use." — Lord'B^con. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. BOSTON: PUBLISHED BY TAPPAN AND DENNET. NEW YORK : — D. APPLETON & CO. AND WILEY & PUTNAM. PHILADELPHIA: — CAREY & HART.

LONDON: — WILEY & PUTNAM. 18 42. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1842, by CHARLES ROCKWELI, in. the Clerk's office of the District Court for the District of Massachusetts AS A TO THE REVEREND PROFESSOR EMERSON, OF THE ANDOVER THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY, AS THE TEACHER AND GUIDE OF EARLIER CLASSICAL AND LATER PROFESSIONAL STUDIES, AND THE HONORABLE JULIUS ROCKWELL, OF PITTSFIELD, MASSACHUSETTS, COMPANION AND SCHOOLMATE IN CHILDHOOD AND YOUTH, AND A CLASSMATE AND ROOMMATE DURING THE WHOLE OF A COLLEGIATE COURSE, THIS WORK IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY THEIR RELATIVE AND FRIEND THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. " O that my words were now written ! 0 that they were printed in a book," was the language of Job ; and the same petition has, in substance, gone forth from many an author when looking forward to those months or years of anxiety and toil in which he was to exert himself, — in vain it might be, — to write that by which he would fain please alike the public and himself. " My desire is that mine adversary had written a book," said the good old patriarch quoted above. " My desire is, that mine adversary had a book to write," was the version given to this passage by a learned divine who was familiar with the toils and perplexities of authorship. A most malicious and unchristian prayer for one to utter in behalf even of his bitterest foe, were thriftless care and labor the author's only portion.

True it may be, and doubtless is, that "None but an author knows an author's cares ;" and yet is it also true, that these cares are often sweet ened by a thousand pleasant and vivid recollections of the past. He may, perchance, recall many bright and sunny hours spent among the hallowed relics of the old world, or in roaming through the primeval a* VI

PREFACE.

. forests of Africa, or in gazing upon the lofty mountains of the southern portion of our own continent ; or, more than all, in communion with the mighty deep in its ever-varying forms of grandeur and of beauty, overhung as it often is with skies of such gorgeous magnificence as to leave far in the back ground the most splendid creations of the painter and the poet. When a writer, in the quiet retirement of his closet, reviews such recollections, blended as they may be with the memory of scenes of social pleasure, imminent peril, and hair-breadth escapes by land and sea, he may have something of the feelings ascribed by the poet to his hero, when, roused by martial music, he again lived in the past, and " Thrice he fought his battles o'er, And thrice he slew the slain." The causes to which the following work owes its origin, and the leading objects before the mind when writing it, may be stated thus.

A long and deeply cherished desire to visit foreign lands led the author, at the close of his professional education, to mature a plan for devoting two or three years to minutely examining the most interesting portions of the old world. By being familiar with the more prevalent languages of southern Europe, he hoped to gain access to the latest and most accurate sources of information, in the way of social intercourse and of books, respecting the countries he should visit ; — their recent his tory, manners, and customs ; religious rites and usages, institutions of education and benevolence, and other matters of interest.

PREFACE.

. VII His connexion with the Navy of the United States was accidental, and arose from the fact, that the privilege of a passage to the Mediterranean, in a man-of war of the larger class, had been granted him by the Secretary of the Navy, and, as there was no Chaplain on board, he yielded to inducements offered him to discharge the duties of the office during most of the succeeding cruise of two years and a half. As the ship was at times, for weeks or months to gether, in ports adjacent to the most interesting por tions of Southern Europe, every desirable facility was furnished for frequent excursions inland, as also for residing in families where the various languages of that region were spoken in their purity. An official connexion with our Navy opens to those who enjoy it, access not only to libraries and other public institutions, but also to the houses of persons of intelligence and rank, and to assemblies of the higher circles of society ; advantages of which common travellers cannot often avail themselves, riding as they fre quently do, posthaste through foreign lands, and leaving them wellnigh as ignorant of their language, social habits, and public institutions, as when they entered them.

As the author was relieved from his professional duties for the period of six months by the transfer of a Chaplain from another ship to that in which he sailed, he was thus enabled to cross Spain and Por tugal in different directions at his leisure ; to reside for a time in the capitals, and to visit the most important cities of these two kingdoms, resorting to almost ev ery possible means of conveyance, becoming familiar

PREFACE.

. VIII with the habits and modes of life of the various class es of society, learning from original sources the dis closures resulting from the then recent suppression of the convents, and other matters of interest con nected with the Catholic faith, — now travelling with smugglers through wild and unfrequented paths, and then in the stately Diligence, rolling along the royal highway, — one day roaming through princely palaces, and the next a captive to lawless robbers. Thus cut off from all who spoke his own language, and domes ticated among those of other tongues, he met with many singular incidents, and enjoyed peculiar facdi ties for acquiring interesting and useful information. How far these opportunities have been improved, the reader can judge. Brief historical sketches of places visited have sometimes been given, that the reader might occupy as nearly as possible the same ground with the author, as to a knowledge of those facts which gave the highest interest to regions rich in recollections of the past.

Specific dates and the use of the present tense have, to some extent, been retained in narrating events, be cause the earlier portions of the work were written as letters, and their form could not be changed with out a sacrifice of directness and interest in manner and style. The main apology for such attempts at poetry as the following work contains, is found in the fact, that frequently the first record made by the author, of ex citing scenes and incidents, was in verse. These de scriptions have been inserted with a view to variety

PREFACE.

. IX rather than with the hope of thus acquiring literary fame, or of adding any thing to the interest of the narrative. Much labor has been bestowed upon this work, with a view, on the one hand, to interest the general reader by a lively and graphic description of objects of curi osity and taste, and striking incidents by land and sea, and, on the other, to embody a large amount of in formation, not accessible to those familiar only with our own language, and fitted to be useful and instruc tive to men of education and intelligence. Peculiar prominence has been given to the present state of Catholic Europe, and the recent religious revolution in Spain and Portugal, resulting in the suppression of convents and other important changes, as casting new light on the results of the Romish faith in those lands where it has reigned with undis puted sway.

One motive for this has been the sin gular ignorance and apathy which prevail in the United States, with regard to the essential and inhe rent superstition, bigotry, and idolatry of the Papal religion, its hostility to general education, to freedom of thought and action, and to civil and religious lib erty in every form. Still due credit is given for such institutions of education and benevolence as exist in Catholic countries, some of which are worthy of high commendation. As the author spent some time on the western coast of Africa, visiting both the settlements of the colored colonists from the United States, and the villages of the native tribes, much labor has been devoted to preparing an account of the natural resources of Central X

PREFACE.

. and Western Africa ; their avenues of trade and articles of commerce ; the present state of the slave-trade ; the influence of colonies on that traffic, and on efforts to enlighten and elevate the native tribes ; the modes of life, superstitions, forms of trial and punishment, and religious rites and usages of the natives. The fact, that most writers on the Navy of the United States have been so connected with that branch of service as to cause some delicacy and re straint in speaking freely of existing abuses, has led the author to attempt, in a kind, but faithful manner, to present such defects as attracted his own attention, and have also caused deep regret to wise and good men who have been long in the Navy. In speaking of the vices of common seamen, the author has wished in some degree to disabuse the public mind of those impressions, that have been made by inflated and injudicious eulogies on the noble traits of seamen, which have lessened and misdirected public sympathy in their behalf, by wholly or in part concealing the deep moral degradation which often marks their character, and presenting them, rather as objects of admiration and envy, than of commiseration and relief.

Many of those most ac tively engaged in benevolent efforts for the good of common seamen, have, in a great degree, failed of securing the confidence and respect of intelligent shipmasters, and others familiar with this class of men, by the false and distorted views of their charac ter, which, through ignorance or from interested mo tives, have been industriously urged upon the public. It is as true in morals as in medicine, that he who

PREFACE.

. XI would rightly prescribe for any malady, should fully understand its nature and malignity, that thus the an tidotes administered may be wisely adapted to the evil to be remedied. And now, gentle reader, wilt thou go with me in my wanderings, with the hope, that, thus doing, our companionship may be like that of the poet and his author, of which he thus speaks. " He travels and expatiates ; as the bee From flower to flower, so he from land to land ; The manners, customs, policy of all Pay contribution to the store he gleans. He sucks intelligence from every clime, And spreads the honey of his deep research, At his return, — a rich repast for me. He travels, and I too : I tread his deck, Ascend his topmast, through his peering eyes Discover countries ; with a kindred heart, Suffer his woes, and share in his escapes ; While fancy, like the finger of a clock, Runs the great circuit and is still at home." February, 1842. CONTENTS

Chapter I. Voyage From Boston To Gibraltar

Page First Impressions of a Man-of-War. — Vastness ofthe Ocean. — A Storm. — A Hurricane. — Power ofthe Ocean. — Sail from Boston. — Feelings thus excited. — Poetry. — Sea Sickness. — A Wet Ship. — Greenhorns. — Marines. — A Commander ofa Ship. — Peril at Sea. — The Ship strikes. — Scene below. — Scene on Deck. — Narrow Es cape. — Public Worship. — Golden Mist. — Speak a Ship. — "Land ho!" — Arrive at Gibraltar 1

Chapter II. Gibraltar And Mahon

Rock of Gibraltar. — Moorish Castle. — Visit to the Town. — Feelings thus excited. — Fortifications. — United States Consul. — Strife of Tongues. — Various Nations. — Jews. — Visit a Synagogue. — Ascend the Rock — Pleasant Companions. — Excavations. — Meet a Friend. — St. Michael's Cave. — Signal House. — O'Hara's Folly. — Reflections. — Exciting Scenes. — Sabbath at Sea. — Grandeur and Beauty of the Sea. — Evening Scene. — Arrive at Mahon. — Cholera. — Quarantine. — Rev. Mr. Jones. — Harbour of Mahon. — Fortifications. — Georgetown. — Mahon. — Houses. — Education. — The Sabbath. — The Catholic Clergy 18

Chapter III. Island Of Minorca

Geology of the Island. — Stone Walls. — Early and Latter Rain. — Famine. — Food for the Poor. — Great Suffering. — Climate. — Scenery, — Languages. — A Spanish Friend. — Epistle of Severus. — Early Conversion of Jews in Mahon. — Relics of St. Stephen. — Orosius. — Miracles. — Persecution. — Results. — Traces ofthe Moors. — Agricultural Implements. — Smoking. — Butter and Cheese. — Catholic Bulls. — Antidote to the Cholera. — Visit to Mount Toro. — Donkeys. — Peasants. — Dress and Manners. — Convent. — Friars. — Their Mode of Life. — Neglect of Duty. —Morals of Friars 36 VOL. I. b CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter IV. Minorca And Barcelona

Few Changes in Spain. — Church and State. — Policy of the Popes. — The Inquisition. — Traces of its Influence. — Chuetas, or New Christiana. — Saracens and Moors. — Languages of Southern Europe. — Catalan Dialect. — Authors. — Seamen good Linguists. — Leave Mahon. — Life at Sea. — Poetry. — Arrive at Barcelona. — Outline of Spain. — Climate. — Majorca. — The Queen. — Convents. — Income ofthe Clergy. — TheirNumber. — Towns and Cities. — Suburbs. — Saracens. — Barcelona. — Its Founder. — Buildings. — Public Garden. — Birds. — Scenery around. — Beauties of Spring. — Poetry. — The Rambla. — Walls of the City. — Castle. — Convents. — Churches. — Offerings. — Idolatry. — Saint worship. — Paintings. — Cathedral. — Priests. — Spain. — Face ofthe Country. — Sheep. — Condition ofthe People. — Inquisition. — Bribery. — Oppression. — Scene at Sea. — Poetry. — Modes of Female Dress. — In France. — In the United States. — In Spain. — Female Devotion and Heroism. — Female Soldiers -54

Chapter V. Naples

Voyage to Naples. — The Bay. — The City. — Vesuvius. — Eruptions. — Beggars ; their Mode of Life, Sufferings, and Character. — Ecclesiastical Reform. — The Jesuits. — Suppression of Convents. — Salaries. — Number of the Clergy ; their Income. — Lazaroni ; their Number, Character, and Mode of Life ; treatment of them by the French. — Hospitals. — Maccaroni. — Massaniello. — A INight Scene. — National Workhouse ; its Form, and Expense of erecting it. — Internal Police. — Schools. — Trades. — Catholics; their Doctrines, Ignorance, Religious Rites, Books, Holydays, Bigotry, Law of Marriage. — Persecution at Gibraltar. — The English ; their Character. — Lord \V. — Mr. F. — Occurrence at Sienna. — F.nglish Chaplains. — Rev. Mr. Valletta, Rev. Mr. Pax ton. — Street Preaching. — Churches. — Scenery around Naples. — Street of Toledo. — Clergy ; their Dress. — Corpus Christi. — Morals of the People. — Grotto of Pausilipo. — Puzzoli. — Cumæ. — Lake Avernus. — Cumæan Sibyl, — Temple of Jupiter. — Amphitheatre. — Solfaterra. — Villa Reale 82

Chapter VI

PÆSTUM — POMPEII — VESUVIUS. Natural Scenery. —Vines. — Horses. — Bells.— Beggars. — La Cava. — Salerno.— Buffaloes.— Pæstum.— Banditti.— Crosses— Murders in CONTENTS. XV 110 139 Spain. — Walls of Pæstum. — Tombs. — Temples. — Its present State. — Reflections. — Volcanic Eruption. — Pompeii. — Amphitheatre. — Herculaneum. — Skeletons in Pompeii. — Temple. — Houses. — Arti cles found there. — Morals of the Inhabitants. — Pickpockets. — Pup py Auction. — Vesuvius. — Ascent by Night. — A Warm Bed. — Scene at Sunrise. — Eruptions. — Crater. — Manuscripts at Herculaneum. — Skeletons. — Shops. — Eruptions. — Minerals. — Fertility. — Sorrento. — Madam Starke. — Ruins.— Villa of Vedius Pollio. — Tasso.— The Piano. — Mountain Scenery. — Amalfi. — Artists. — Mountains. — Snow pits.' — Scenery. — A Singular Ride and a pleasant Acquaintance.

Chapter VII. Capua And Rome

A Sleeping City. — Leave Naples. — Carriages. — Conductor. — Aversa. — Hospital. — Capua. — Amphitheatre. — The Liris. — Mola. — Cicero. — Robbers. — Countess of Fondi. — Terracina — Promontory of Circe. — Pontine Marshes. — Appii Forum. — The Three Taverns. — Velletri. — Lake Nemi. — Mount Albano. — View of Rome. — Reflections. — Lake Albano. — American Coffee-house. — Campagna Romana. — Malaria. — Aqueducts. — Walls of Rome. — Feelings on entering the City. — Gibbon. — Hotel. — Appearance of Rome. — The Seven Hills. — Villas. — Fountains. — Obelisks. — Triumphal Columns. — Bridges. — Public Squares. — Palaces. — St. Peter's Church j Vestibule, Interior, High Altar. — St. Peter's Chair. — The Dome. — Reflections. — Brazen Ball. — The Ancient Church. — Public Devotions. — Vatican Palace. — Specimens of the Fine Arts — Classic Interest. — Statuary. — Sculpture. — Vatican Library — Popes of Rome; their History, Claims, and Power;' their Humiliation — Etiquette of the Papal Court. — Interview with the Pope; his Dress, and Personal Appearance

Chapter VIII. Rome

Interview with the Pope. — Conversation. — Homage. — Presents. — Cardinal Fesch. — Paintings. — Mother of Napoleon. — Rival Artists. — Ara Cœli. — Gibbon. — Public Amusements. — Pagan Festivals. — Catholic Paganism. — Palatine Hill. — Amphitheatre. — The Coliseum. — Its Structure, Ornaments, and the Scenes enacted there. — Gladiators. — Wild Animals. — Baths ; their Origin and Object. — Baths of Titus, of Diocletian, of Caracalla. — Public Morals. — Idolatry. — The Jews. — Catholics. — Funerals. — The Pope's Guard. — Cardinals. — Popes. — Population of Rome. — The Clergy. — Debts and Income of the Pope. — Police. — Index of Prohibited Books. — Prisons. — CONTENTS. Hospitals. — Beggars. — Funerals. — Secret Societies. — Insurgents. — Robbers. — Military Escorts. — Education in Rome. — The Gregorian College. — The University of Rome 178

Chapter IX. Spain And Portugal

Cruise at Sea. — Parties in Spain. — Friars. — Carlists. — The Queen's Party. — Liberals. — Convents. — Archbishop of Santiago. — Riot at Barcelona. — Junta of Extermination. — Archbishop of Tarragona. — Friars in M.ijorca. — Storm at Sea. — One of our Crew lost. — Poetry. — Reflections. — An April Fool. — Portugal; her past History. — Don Miguel. — Don Pedro. — The Queen. — The Army. — National Income and Debt. — Convents. — Monks and Friars. — The Jesuits. — Nuns. — Colleges. — Income of the Clergy. — Education. — The Navy. — Lisbon; its History and Population. — Houses. — Dogs. — Earthquake. — Dress of Females. — Education. — Libraries. — Records ofthe Inquisition. — Rare Works. — Paintings. — English Chapel and Grave Yard. — Fielding — Dr. Doddridge. — Hospital — Insane Patients. — Medical School. — Church of St. Roque. — Foundling Hospital. — Schools. — Convent of Belem. — The Deaf and Dumb. — English Craft, and Portuguese Folly 216

Chapter X. Cintra, Mafra, And Madrid

Visit to Cintra in Autumn, — in tho Spring. — Natural Scenery. — Houses, Mountains. — Tlie Sea. — Montserrat. — Palaces. — Mafra, its Palace. — Convent. — Organs. — Musical Bells. — English Influence. — Leave Lisbon for Madrid. — Smugglers. — Robbers. — Prejudice against Foreigners. — Royalists. — Volunteers. — Carlists. — Croakers. — A Sail on the Tagus. — Our Lady of Attalia. — Porters. — A Cabin Scene. — Posadas. — Roads — Smugglers, their Mode of Life. — A Night Scene. — Armour. — Sketches of my Companions. — Our Road. — Pigs. — Turkeys. — Cork Trees. — The Olive. — Fortresses. — F.stramoz. — Elvas. — Badajoz. — National Hatred. — Smuggling. — Music. — Arrive at Bad;ijoz. — Cavallo Blanco. — The Landlady. — Servant Boy. — Recruits, mode of treating them. — Drilling. — Manuel Godoy. — The Queen Regent. — Battle of Badajoz. — The Cathedral. — Paintings. — Leave Badajoz. — A Parting Scene. — My Fellow-Passengers.— The Mayoral. — Our Galera. — Postilions. — Merida.

Truxillo. — Meeting of Friends. — A Murder. — Talavera, Battle there. — Spanish Ferocity. — Flocks of Sheep. — Sheepfolds. — Shepherds. — Christmas. — Robbers. — Severe Cold. — Madrid CONTENTS. XVII

Chapter XI. Madrid

: THE ESCURIAL. History of Madrid. — Its Gates. — Public Squares. — Fountains. — Gallegos. — Population. — Public Buildings. — Streets. — Lights. — Paseos. — The Prado. — Public Gardens. — Convents. — Royal Palace. — Library. — Armory. — Military Museum. — Cabinet of Natural Sciences. — Museum of the Fine Arts. — Royal Museum of Paintings. — Prisons. — Holydays. — Beggars. — Confession. — General Hospital. — Foundling Hospital. — Mrs. Mendoza. — School for Female Orphans. — Private Charity. — Mount of Piety. — The Deaf and Uuinb. — The Blind. — Modes of Burial. — Friar's Robes. — The Escurial; its History, Form, and Size. — Tomb of Spanish Kings. — Paintings. — Cambiaso. — Relics. — Dangerous Adventures. — The Cortes. — The Pope. — The Clergy. — Nunneries. — Feelings of the People — Sermons. — Idolatry. — Catholics in the United States. — Public Speaking. — The Spanish Language. — Don Quixote. — Party Strife. — Exiles. — Houses. — Insurance 276

Chapter XII. Aranjuez, Toledo, And Cordova

Leave Madrid. — Diligences. — Aranjuez. — The Palace. — Gardens. — The Town. — Grist-Mill. — Ride to Toledo. — Reflections. — History. — Jews — Moors. — The Inquisition. — Foundling Hospit;il. — Celibacy of the Clergy. — Clerical Friends. — Toledo Blades. — Serving two Masters. — Watch ofthe Passion. — Cathedral. — Treasures. — Mozarabic Liturgy. — Priests and Churches. — Walk to Ocania. — Travelling Companions. — Robbery. — Our Loss. — Relics. — Appearance of our Party. — Pocket Testament. — Posada. — Affidavits. — Robbers and Magistrates. — Poverty. — Pity from Beggars. — Change of Climate. — Mountains.— Poetry. — Baylen. — Horses. — Pelistes. — Cordova. — Mahometanism. — Jews. — Fanaticism. — Martyrs. — Mosque of Cordova. — Carmona. — Its Capture 319

Chapter XIII. Seville, Cadiz, And Xerez

History of Seville. — Muza. — Exilona. — Othman. — Alfonso the Sixth. — Zaida. — Expulsion ofthe Moors. — Walls of the City. — Houses. — School ofthe Noble Arts. — Spanish Painters. — Collections of Paintings. — Convents. — Murillo. — Hospital — Population. — Longevity. — The Golden Tower. — Italica. — Roman Emperors. — The Alcazar. — Hall ofthe Ambassadors. — Gardens. — House nf Pilate. — Cannon- Foundery. — Tobacco Factory. — Female Operatives. — Cathedral. — XVJli CONTENTS. Giralda. — Paintings. — Columbian Library. — Clergy. — Society and Manners. — Parting of Friends. — A Spanish Steamboat. — A Foolish Priest. — Arrive at Cadiz. — Situation ofthe City. — Its Beauty. — Population. — Public Morals. — Houses. — St. Mary's. — Xerez. — — Vintage. — Wine-Press. — Manufacture of Wine. — Temperance Wines. — Agrass. — Wine-Vaults. — Wealth of the Wine -Merchants. — Anecdotes of Robbers. — Crime. — Roads. — Agriculture. — Commerce of Cadiz. — We leave Cadiz 359

Chapter XIV. Condition And Prospects Of Spain

Rev. Mr. Rule ; his History, Labors, Journal. — Sabbath at Cadiz. — Journey to Seville. — Religious Condition of the City — Priest of St. Gil. — Students. — Infidelity — Journey to Madrid. — Bishop of Astorga. — Spanish Versions of the Bible. — Union of the Spanish and English Churches. — Augustine Monk j his Views of Spain. — Prohibited Books. — Opposition to Papacy. — Prisoners. — Senor Potia. — Friars. — Public Morals and Religion. — Spanish Hymns. — Circulation of the Bible in Spain : Missions there. — Feelings of the People. — Facilities for Social Intercourse. — Liberty of the Press. — Religious Laws. — Bishop of Cadiz. — English Influence. — Versions of the Scriptures. — Catechisms. — Infidel Books. — Catholic Works. — Thoughts on Popery. — Education in Spain. — Emigrants. — Governors of Cadiz and Barcelona. — Archbishop of Toledo. — Spanish Schools and Colleges

Chapter I. Voyage From Boston To Gibraltar

First rmpressions of a Man-of-War. — Vastness ofthe Ocean. — A Storm. — A Hurricane. — Power of the Ocean. — Sail from Boston. — Feelings thus excited. — Poetry. — Sea Sickness. — A Wet Ship. — Greenhorns. — Marines. — A Commander of a Ship. — Peril at Sea. — The Ship strikes. — Scene below, — Scene on Deck. — Narrow Escape. — Public Worship. — Golden Mist. — Speak a Ship. — " Land ho ! " — Arrive at Gibraltar. A man-of-war of the larger class, with its crowded host, and armed and equipped for a distant voyage, is an object of new and peculiar interest to one who has been familiar only with the peaceful abodes of science, and the quiet seclusion of domestic life. How like a floating Babel, does such an inmate view this little world, with all its strife of tongues, its noisy jargon, its roaring cannon, and the loud, and long drawn cheers, which greet the coming of some favorite chief.

At first, he gazed, with wonder, on this mighty fabric, as, in the quiet harbour, with its gigantic hull, its towering masts, and wide-extended yards, it rested on the bosom of the deep. Then, as he moved along her decks, lined with long, dark rows of massive guns, and peopled with a thousand men, with means for their support at hand, and each with his al lotted place and sphere of duty, " What a vast and splendid exhibition this," he exclaims, "of human ingenuity and toil." Perchance, too, he thinks of that Almighty Architect, who gave to man the skill to invent, and the power to construct, so vast a fabric ; — or, to go still further back, — Who nerved with strength the firm and giant oak, Scarce rent in sunder by the lightning's stroke ; Which, wrought by art, now floats, the ocean's pride, And mocks the fury of the raging tide.

VOL. I. In this same ship he goes forth upon the ocean, and how swiftly doth she move along, when her wide expanse of canvass is opened to the breeze. The shores recede and are lost to the view. Day after day, and week after week, there is nothing but the sky above, and the wide-rolling ocean around him. The ship, which before he had thought so large, seems to diminish in size, when compared with the vastness and grandeur of the works of God, in the midst of which he is moving. She is wafted along like a feather, on the long-swelling waves of the sea, and he begins to feel that the ocean is, indeed, boundless as eternity. How as less than nothing, and vanity, do the proudest efforts of man now appear, when compared with the works of Him, who measureth the waters in the hollow of his hand, who saith to the sea, "Hitherto shalt thou come, and no further, and here shall thy proud waves be stayed."

Had he, before this, any adequate idea of the vastness of the ocean, of those " wonders of God, in the mighty deep," which awaken feelings such as no language can excite, or description equal ? He may have pored over the pages of history and geogra phy, and dwelt with glowing rapture on the brilliant descriptions of the poet. He may have computed how many cubic inches of water there are on the surface of the globe, and how many thousand years it would take, for all the rivers of the world to fill the empty space, which would be made by removing, at once, all the waters of the mighty deep. Still, what were all these, in their effects upon the mind, when compared with sailing across an almost boundless ocean. But the lesson which one may thus learn, has but just commenced. Turn, now, and behold that little cloud in the horizon, which seems no bigger than a man's hand.

Soon it expands, and spreads wildly over the heavens. All the sails are taken in, and fear, or deep anxiety, rests on every countenance. The water in the distance seems one wide expanse of foam, and now the waves begin to heave around, lashed to madness by the raging winds. Then comes the wild and angry rush ofthe tempest, and the warring elements seem eager to devour their prey. That proud and lofty ship, which so lately seemed to dare the tempest's utmost rage, now reels and bows before the fury of the storm. It flees like a chased roe upon the mountains. It is tossed on high as a thing of nought, and then goes down again to the depths, as if the yeasty waves would swallow it up. When thus in the grasp of the tempest, it seems no more than the fragile reed in the hands of a giant. At such an hour the boldest and sternest spirits are subdued, and a cry is heard, like that which sounded in the ears of the prophet, when fleeing to Tarshish, from the presence of the Lord, " Arise, call upon thy God, if so be that God will think upon us, that we perish not."