Journal of a Clergyman during a visit to the Peninsula in the summer and autumn of 1841

Front matter

JOURNAL OF A CLERGYMAN. EDINBURGH. PRINTED BT BALLANTYNE AND HUGHES, PAUL'S WORK, CANONGATE JOURNAL OF A CLERGYMAN DURING A VISIT TO THE PENINSULA IN THE SUMMER AND AUTUMN OF 1811. BY THE KEV. WILLIAM ROBERTSON, MINISTER OF NEW GREVFRIARS, EDINBURGH. WILLIAM BLACKWOOD & SONS, EDINBURGH AND LONDON. M.DCCC.XLV. PKEFACE. The Author of the following pages was in duced to visit Gibraltar at the instance of the Colonial Committee of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland. He is aware how deficient they are in much important infor mation which a clergyman travelling in such interesting regions might be expected to seek and acquire. But the state of his health at the time, owing to the influence of climate, and other causes, was such as to weaken the energies of both body and mind ; and if he has been fortunate enough to present his readers with any interesting information, it is such as has been obtained by merely keep ing his eyes open to the objects and occur rences around him. In such circumstances, the propriety of

Preface

. II publishing may perhaps be considered ques tionable ; but he is led to hope that he has one recommendation to the favour of a certain portion of the public, beyond what is possessed by the generality of tourists, viz. that he has endeavoured to look on every thing with the eye of a minister of the Gospel of Christ. The Author is persuaded that he need offer no apology to any class of readers for the frequent occurrence of religious reflections. His impressions and feelings are given as they rose in his own mind ; and in a Christian country, a Christian minister can require no indulgence for contemplating God's works and creatures through a Christian medium. W. R. 24 Geokge Square, 8th October 1844. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Falmouth— Bay of Biscay — Bay of Vigo — Capture of the Spanish galleons — Vigo — Gallego linguists — Coast scenery — Mouth of the Douro Floating society — Peninsular steamers — The Tagus — Lisbon Imposing appearance of the city — Disappointment — Streets of Lisbon Botanical garden — Aqueduct of Alcantara — Promenade — Square of the Inquisition — Successors of the Apostles — The great Earthquake. — P. 1-20.

Chapter II

Dogs of Lisbon — Farewell to Lisbon — How beautiful is night ! The Christian's privilege — First appearance of Cadiz — Streets of Cadiz The Alameda — Spanish beauty — Introductory letters — The Trajano Sea sickness — The Guadalquivir — San Lucar — Arrival at Seville P. 21-38.

Chapter III

Seville and Naples — Seville and Cadiz— Streets and houses of Seville — Trade — The frugal meal — The Cathedral — Seville cathedral and St Peter's — Decorations — The organ — Columbus — Patio de los Naranjos Library — The Giralda — Typical weathercock — Italiea — The Alcazar Moorish architecture — The garden — The Lonja — The tobacco manufac tory — Cigars — Snuff — Tobacco and the potato — Progress of tobacco Pictures — Raphael and Murillo — Ideal holiness — Angel de la Guardia The St Anthony — The museum — Hospital de la Caridad — Moses smiting the rock— The Alamedas — The walk at even-tide. — P. 39-73. CONTENTS. IV Spanish posada — Ride to Granada — First appearance of Granada. — P. 319-337.

CHAPTER XIV.

Granada — Bibarrambla — Cathedral — .Church of San Domingo — The Alhambra — Gate of Judgment — Plaza de los Algibes — The fonda — " Ter rors of the night" — The Moorish palace — The Morisco-Spaniards — Court of the Myrtles — Court of the Lions — The Fountain of the Lions, and So lomon's molten sea — Sala de Justicia — Sala de las Dos Hermanas — Sala de los Abencerrages — Palace of Charles V The Generalise — Sunset — . Spanish society — The alameda — The Albaycin — Gardens of the Generalise —Robber exploits.— P. 338-385.

CHAPTER XV.

Departure from Granada — The Vega — Sabbath thoughts— The posada — Duke of Wellington's estates — Spanish peasants — Situation of Loja — The posada of Loja — The fair — Leave Loja — Colmenar — Extensive vineyards — "Defeat ofthe mountains of Malaga" — Journey to Malaga — Ma laga — Cathedral — Moorish castles — Siege of Malaga — Trade — Leave Ma laga—Arrival at Gibraltar.— P. 369-385.

CHAPTER XVI.

Farewell to Gibraltar — Cadiz — The Tagus steamer — Land at Lisbon — Journey to Cintra — Moonlight view of Cintra— Ride to Mafra — British soldier and Portuguese mule — Mafra — Military music — Cintra — Return to Lisbon, and re-embark — The maniac — The custom-house Arrive in London — Prospect of another journey P. 386-401. JOURNAL JOURNAL OF A CLERGYMAN.

Chapter I

Falmouth — Bay of Biscay — Bay of Vigo — Capture of the Spanish galleons — Vigo — Gallego linguists — Coast scenery — Mouth of the Douro — Floating society — Peninsular steamers— The Tagus — Lisbon — Imposing appearance of the city — Disappointment — Streets of Lisbon — Botanical garden — Aqueduct of Alcantara — Promenade — Square of the Inquisition — Successors of the Apostles — The great Earthquake. July 4, 1841. — Embarked yesterday evening, at seven, o'clock, on board the Royal Tar steamer, for Gibraltar. Tbus far tbe weather bas been most propitious, and we enjoyed a pleasant, calm passage to Falmouth, where I landed betwixt five and six o'clock this evening. Attended evening service in tbe church ; and, accompanied by a youth bound for Gibraltar, strolled on the high grounds above the town, where there is little to admire in the way either of nature or of art.

Falmouth is a poor, un interesting town ; the country behind is bare and treeless ; tbe bay in front, and the wide expanse of ocean beyond, look cold, and misty, and uncomfort- A FALMOUTH. able — not unlike my own prospects in respect of my present excursion. What a change has come over the spirit of my dream, since the prospect of a foreign tour was as full of unmixed enjoyment as any earthly prospect could well be ! Tbe hoarse snorting of a steamer rousing her mighty locomotive power, the rattle of the wheels of a travelling carriage, or even the lumbering of an unwieldy French diligence, was then like the music of the spheres. In those days of light-hearted wandering, I enjoyed a frame whose vigour no fatigue could subdue. I bad no encumbrances, as cooks, and butlers, and servants of all work say when they advertise for a place.

Now, I carry with me a body not a little worn and enfeebled, and I leave behind me my parish and my family — the former containing two thousand souls, committed by God to my charge, and of whom I must hereafter give an account — and the latter suffering under severe and protracted sickness. These are all subjects of no small disquietude ; and yet, " Why art thou cast down, O my soul ? and why art thou disquieted in me ? hope thou in God ; for I shall yet praise him, who is the health of my countenance, and my God." July 7. — We are in the famous Bay of Biscay. The Royal Tar reels like a drunkard — now rolling from side to side with a violence which seems to threaten instant destruction, and now pitching for wards, head foremost, into the wave which meets her, BAY OF BISCAY. 3 with a shock that makes the timbers tremble from stem to stern.

I have been in tbe stormy Bay before, but I have never seen it in a state of such violent commotion. All yesterday and to-day the rolling and pitching have been very great, and sadly changed is the cheer of most of my fellow-passengers. One old French gentleman especially, who, elated by two days of calm, had begun to boast of the comfort he enjoyed at sea, and to talk of a trip across the Bay as a mere party of pleasure, now looks sadly crestfallen, and his pallid and rueful countenance indicates any thing but enjoyment. The ladies, half sick and half terri fied, indulge occasionally in pretty screams, but on the whole behave exceedingly well. As for myself, I am too old a sailor to participate in the afflicting agonies of sea-sickness ; but the violent tossing has affected me with an overpowering desire to sleep, so that I spent the greater part of yesterday in bed.

We have had, on tbe whole, a tolerable run. The day before yesterday, about two o'clock p. m., we paddled out of tbe bay of Falmouth ; and this even ing, just before dark, the coast of Spain and Cape Ortegal were indistinctly visible, like a mass of cloud on the horizon. About tbe same time the Braganza steamer appeared in the distance, homeward bound, and, as usual, a blue rocket blazed from each, to sig nify, I presume, " All's well." July 8. — Awoke this morning in smooth water, dressed hastily, jumped on deck, and found ourselves BAY OF VIGO. within the Bayona rocks, and gliding up tbe magnificent Bay of Vigo— a bay sheltered from every blast, protected sea-ward by that noble natural breakwater tbe Bayona islands or rocks, room enough for all tbe navies of Europe to ride in comfort, and capable of being fortified at its entrance, so as to bid defiance to the most daring enemy.

What, a glorious place this would be were it but on the British, instead of on the Spanish coast ! And what makes Spain of it ? A pitiful fishing station, without even a harbour ! Now I begin to feel tbe southern sun. How beautifully it gleams and flashes on the polished mirror of the waveless bay ! To what a vast depth it appears to illumine the still waters ! Down through fathoms of liquid crystal the eye discerns a descending object, until we almost think that, but for tbe avaricious sand, we might discover the lost treasures of the Spanish galleons buried beneath. What a fearful spectacle this lovely bay exhibited on tbe 22d of October 1702 ! Tbe rich West India fleet, laden with treasure and costly merchandise, had taken refuge here. Booms were thrown across the entrance from rock to shore, the war-ships of France drawn up in line within, and guns and mor tars dragged to every point which might command tbe bay.

Vain precautions ! Bravely fought the Spaniard in defence of his wealth, t and bravely fought the Frenchman in defence of his allies ; but they had to do with those who, at the least, were as CAPTURE OF THE SPANISH GALLEONS. 5 brave as themselves, and who loved gold quite as well. The British fleet, though repulsed with dis grace from Cadiz, having had tbe appetite for gold whetted by the plunder of Port St Mary, were not to be easily deterred with such a prize in sight. The booms were broken, tbe French ships of war sunk or silenced, the flying galleons overtaken, the flames raised by their despairing crews extinguished, and one half of the treasure wrested from Spain, from the flames, and the weaves. The other half still lies buried many fathoms deep, to tempt the enterprise and avarice of future generations.* About eight o'clock in the morning I landed with the lieutenant, who has charge of the letter-bags, walked about the streets of Vigo for half an hour, and returned to the steamer in time for breakfast.

With the modesty peculiar to tourists, I may there fore consider myself duly qualified to speak of Spain in general, and Galicia in particular. * The British fleet, having sacked Port St Mary, and being repulsed from Cadiz, were returning to England, when they were informed that the Spanish yearly West Indian fleet, being shut out from Cadiz, their regular port, by the operations of the British and Dutch against that place, had steered north, and run into the Bay of Vigo. The capture of this rich prize was immediately decided on. Seven ships of war, six galleons, and treasure and merchandise to the amount of forty millions of dollars, re warded the conquerors, while about as much had been destroyed by the flames, or cast into the sea. " The roar of the artillery, the crackling of the flames, (says Lord Mahon,) and the plunging of the sailors from their burning ships, mingled their various sounds with the shrieks of the wounded and the exulting shouts of the conquerors.

War has seldom assumed so hideous an aspect as Vigo now displayed. Two thousand French and Spaniards are said to have perished on that dreadful day." — Vide Lobd Mahon's Hist, ofthe War of Succession in Spain. VIGO— GALLEGO LINGUISTS. Vigo is a poor town, probably containing about 3000 inhabitants. It stands on the slope of a conical hill, crowned by a no longer fortified fortification. A few manufactories of hats and soap, and the fishery of its far-famed sardines,* employ the grown-up inhabitants ; while the youthful Gallegos are most industrious beggars, to exercise which profession to advantage some knowlege of foreign languages seems to be considered desirable. " Geeva mi one copper, ser," squeaked tbe ragged urchins, whose dolorous voices were strangely at variance with their merry laughing faces.

Above the town there is a pretty Alameda, that invariable accompaniment of every town in Spain. Tbe country around is beautiful, and rich in vines and Indian corn. The market exhibited an abundant supply of fish, fruit, bread, and vegetables, exposed amid a jabbering of buyers and sellers which out-billingsgates Billingsgate. Paddling out of the bay by nine o'clock, tbe steamer kept pretty near the coast as far as Oporto, off which place we arrived about five o'clock p. m. Tbe coast is high and hilly, and in general bare and barren, enlivened here and there with little towns and villages, with their adjacent tracts of cultivated ground. We approached pretty near to the mouth of tbe Douro, in order to exchange letter-bags, and receive two additional passengers. Very little of Oporto is visible from the sea, the greater part of * A species of anchovy, strongly resembling the pilchard, but smaller.

FLOATING SOCIETY. 7 the town being hid by the lofty and precipitous banks of tbe Douro. This has been a delightful day, bright and warm. We have had a heavy rolling sea, but very little wind. The society on board is on tbe whole very agreeable. A gentlemanly English officer, tall and soldierlike, bound for Gibraltar, with his lady, a very amiable and pleasing woman ; a vulgar, little, brandy-faced, spindle-shanked, and most unmilitary-looking Spa nish officer, ever ready with his guitar and song, until the rolling sea made him change his tune and cheer ; an uproariously merry Englishman, a wine-merchant from Port St Mary, whose noisy mirth seemed to know no cessation by night or day, in storm or calm ; a Spaniard, also a wine-merchant from Port St Mary, who appeared to consider himself bound, for the hon our of Spain, to rival the Englishman in mirth and noise, and whose plump round figure, in tight panta loons and youthful jacket, reminded one strongly of Mr Pickwick's friend Tupman, in his brigand's costume at Mrs Leo Hunter's fete.

Such were some of the most distinguished characters in our little floating society. Tbe Royal Tar is a capital and comfortable vessel, and her captain a fine, hearty, good-humoured seaman. The Peninsular Steam-Packet Company have very absurdly arrayed the captains and mates of their vessels in a uniform almost identical with that of the captains and lieutenants of the royal navy. The only apparent distinction betwixt tbe two is in the button, which in the Steam-Packet Company PENINSULAR STEAMERS — THE TAGUS. 8 bears a rising sun, instead of the crown and anchor of the navy. With such a slight, and, at a short dis tance, imperceptible distinction, it is not to be won dered at that the officers of the steam-packets should be mistaken by the soldiers on guard at the different Peninsular ports for officers of the navy, and saluted as such with the usual military honours ; while the real navy officer, landing in half-uniform, is taken no notice of, to the no small indignation of the latter.

Several of tbe packet masters have, however, the good sense to decline wearing this uniform, or rather livery. The pitching and rolling to-day have been worse than in tbe Bay of Biscay. July 9. — Betwixt one and two o'clock p. m., wre entered tbe golden Tagus. " Golden" I presume it must be, out of deference for Virgil and Ovid, though it now rolls down to the sea nothing but mud, and tbe filth of the filthiest capital in Europe. Tbe mouth of the river is very wide, but a long sand-bank, over which breaks a heavy surf, obliges ships to steer near the right bank, and between the forts of S. Juliano and Bugio, so that the entrance is well protected. Half an hour's paddling brings us abreast of Belem (quasi Bethlehem) Castle, of Moorish origin, a sin gular and picturesque object, and one of the most remarkable features in the Tagus, but apparently possessing neither military strength nor architectural beauty.

Sweeping rapidly past this antique fort, Lis bon, in all its glory, opens on the sight, gracefully IMPOSING APPEARANCE OF LISBON. 9 reclining on her seven hills. Seven is the mystical number, and so Lisbon reclines on seven hills ! Tbe eye, however, detects only three. Truly a beautiful and commanding situation it is, worthy of a great city, though somewhat too much bepraised. The broad Tagus is tbe glory of the scene, and looks as if nature had destined it to receive the navy and the merchandise of a mighty empire. The hills which rise on either side, have but little to boast of in re spect of verdure or fertility. We hear a great deal too much of the verdant banks, orange groves, and vine-clad bills of the golden Tagus ; and, after such glowing descriptions, one is apt to be a little disap pointed on finding a muddy river, Avith lofty banks, tbe general appearance of which is bare, sandy, and stony.

Here and there, however, the eye rests de lighted on spots of great beauty, where the elegant quinta may be seen rising among groves of acacia and orange, surrounded by gardens and vineyards. The unfinished palace of the Ajuda particularly at tracts the eye. It is an elegant Grecian structure placed in a commanding situation, light, graceful, and tasteful ; but alas ! like our National Monument on the Calton Hill, a monument of national pride and poverty. It is unfinished for want of means, and in all probability w7ill never be completed according to tbe original magnificent design. The royal palace is situated lower down, and nearer to the river ; and, as far as one can judge from a passing glance, it appears a mean affair, painted a glaring red. DISAPPOINTMENT. At every turn of the paddles Lisbon continues to improve in beauty and majesty, presenting the appearance of three vast pyramids of palaces, spires, domes, and towers.

As the steamer takes up her posi tion opposite to the custom-house, affording a view into the interior of the city, the expectations of the traveller are increased. The long line of quays — the handsome custom-house, forming one side of a noble square — the Praca do Comercio, with its elegant arcade, and the equestrian statue of King Joseph I., in bronze, in its centre — tbe straight and airy Rua Augusta, running direct from it through the heart of the town, and connecting it at the opposite extremity with the Pra§a do Roncio, the second square in Lis bon, and with the shady Alameda beyond — all tend to impress the stranger with tbe most favourable idea of tbe city be is about to enter. But ab ! first impres sions are proverbially deceitful. Somebody some where says, that the true epithet to be applied to the view of Lisbon from tbe river is imposing ; and most true it is, for a more gross imposition has never been practised on mortal senses.

No sooner has the tra veller landed, and passed the Pra§a do Comercio, than Lisbon's glories fade, tbe enchantment disap pears, and, in its place, he finds nothing but steep, ill-paved, and abominably filthy streets. No architectural beauty, no tasteful mansions, no splendid shops ; but at each turn every compound of bad smells salutes his nose, crumbling walls and ruinous buildings meet his eye, invitations of vice from most loathly STREETS OF LISBON— BOTANIC GARDEN. 11 objects greet his ear ; and before he reaches the silent, desolate, stinking lane, in which stands Madame de Belem's English hotel, nose, and eye, and ear, and heart, are all disgusted with Lisbon. As the heat was too great to permit of walking in comfort, Mr Kerferd (a young gentleman from Mexi co, one of our party on board the Royal Tar) and I ordered a seje, the universal vehicle of Lisbon.

This is a sort of cab, hung very high, and drawn by a pair of horses, one in the shafts and the other carrying the postilion. Directing him to drive us through some of the principal parts of tbe city, we proceeded to climb tbe uncommonly steep, uncommonly ill-paved, and uncommonly stinking streets. In steepness, they may rival the streets of Valetta — in pavement, the Avorst-paved country town in Scotland — and in per fume, whatever tbe reader's idiosyncrasy may lead him to regard as most abominable. I am told the smells of Lisbon are much less offensive now than formerly. What a spicy breath the capital of Portu gal must have had in those days ! In our progress through the city, we were conducted first of all to the Botanic Garden, a very lovely spot in an elevated position, commanding a splendid view of Lisbon and tbe Tagus.

Viewed from this point, Lisbon once more puts on the enchanted girdle, and becomes all grace and loveliness ; for, while the narrow and ruinous streets are concealed, the luxu riant gardens, the graceful walks, the elegant villas, the stately domes and towers, stand out with singular effect ; while through the delicate acacia shade gleams the noble Tagus, bespangled with innumerable lateen sails, snowy white, glistening and flitting like butter flies along its sparkling tide. The garden itself is very beautiful, tastefully laid out, and ornamented with marble busts ; copious fountains splashing a grateful freshness around ; reservoirs teeming with gold-fish ; flower-plots glowing in all the beauty of southern luxuriance; hedges of jasmine and heliotrope fifteen feet high ; geraniums twining round the stems of the orange and acacia trees, as rich, and busby, and flowery as our honeysuckle ; besides innumerable plants and flowers unknown to my northern eye.

From the Botanical Garden we clambered still higher up the mountain street, till we reached the summit, where stands tbe great reservoir which supplies Lisbon and its numerous fountains with water, and is itself supplied by tbe famous Aqueduct of Alcantara. The aqueduct of Alcantara is unques tionably the noblest work of the kind in Europe. The water is carried over the valley of Alcantara, on thirty-five marble arches of various dimensions. They are not of uniform architecture, which perhaps impairs the effect of tbe wdiole ; but so gigantic are tbe dimensions of this colossal work, that it is hardly possible to contemplate it, more especially if placed under tbe magnificent vault of tbe great arch, without experiencing feelings akin to that awe which subdues the soul while contemplating the sublime works of nature.

The whole wrork, from the source to the reservoir, embraces an extent of seven miles, and is of so solid and massive a construction, that it with stood the shock of the great earthquake which de stroyed great part of Lisbon in 1755. The principal arch is said by some to measure 250 feet in height, and by others not less than 332. In the elevation of its arch, therefore, this aqueduct is unrivaled, as far as I am aware, by any aqueduct bridge in the world. The aqueducts of ancient Rome were as tonishing works. Some of them conveyed water to the city from a distance of thirty, forty, or even sixty miles ; so that even in these latter days, wdien science and enterprise are filling the world with wonders, we may agree with Pliny, that, " if we consider attentively tbe works which have been con structed for forming a regular channel for the waters — arches raised, mountains pierced with tunnels, and valleys filled up to a level — it must be acknowledged there is nothing in the whole world more wonderful."

In the height of their arches, however, these astonish ing works were far inferior to the aqueduct of Alcan tara, tbe highest of any (viz. those of the New Anio) being only 109 feet in height. The loftiest arch of the famous aqueduct of Antioch is only 200 feet high. Of the Pont du Gard I have a very imper fect recollection ; but whatever its elevation may be, (and I believe it to be greatly inferior to that of the aqueduct of Alcantara,) it does not consist of one single row of arches, but of three, one above the other. The loftiest aqueduct bridge in Great Britain is, I believe, the Pont Cysylte, which conveys the Ellesmere canal across the Dee and the vale of Llangollen, and which is 126 feet from the surface of the water in the Dee to that in the canal. The aque - duct bridge of Maintenon in France, constructed by Louis XIV. for conveying tbe waters of the Eure to Versailles, is generally considered the loftiest struc ture of the kind in the world ; this, however, is a mistake, for its greatest elevation is not much more than 200 feet.

The aqueduct of Alcantara, therefore, appears in this respect to stand unrivaled. The reservoir into which it empties itself is a large building, containing an immense square basin of great depth, which receives the water as it gushes from a rockery, or fountain of grotto-work ; from thence it is conveyed to all parts of Lisbon, and sup plies the various fountains ofthe city. The water is considered peculiarly salubrious, and it is even said that the climate of Lisbon is indebted for part of its fame to the aqueduct of Alcantara. It is strongly impregnated with carbonate of lime. There can, indeed, be no doubt, that the quality of the water is a most important element in the general healthful ness of a district. This is a fact so well known to the trainer of horses for the turf, that he will cause the water which he knows by experience to agree with his horse, to be conveyed in casks to a considerable distance, rather than expose him to the risk of drinking from some less salubrious stream.

Innumerable diseases, prevalent in different districts, have been traced to tbe unwholesome quality of the water ; and there can be little doubt that Clifton in England, and the southern base of the Ochil mountains in Scotland, owe much of their sanatory repu tation to the excellence of the water, which in both places is of the same character as that with which Lisbon is supplied. The aqueduct of Alcantara is therefore a noble work in every sense of the word. But in this utili tarian age, we are apt to pity the ignorance, quite as much as we admire the public spirit, skill, and enter prise, which it displays. When we reflect that an humble and unostentatious pipe, buried in the earth, unnoticed, and almost unknown, except by tbe bless ings it diffuses, would have answered the purpose far better than this seven mile extent of arches of solid masonry, many of them of costly materials and towering height, our feelings become of a very mixed description.

It is thus that we forget Colum bus and his egg. It is probable, however, that such colossal and magnificent structures did not owe their origin, as is generally supposed, to the ignorance of the period with respect to that apparently simple hydrostatic principle, that fluid will always rise to its own level. Professor Sir John Leslie of Edinburgh used to take pleasure in demonstrating to his students, that the ancient Romans were well acquainted with this principle, and with the use of pipes for the conveyance of water founded upon it. PROMENADE— SQUARE OF THE INQUISITION. But though they were acquainted with this simple but most important principle, they had no means of reducing it to practice on a large scale, such as was necessary for supplying a city with water, owing to their ignorance of the use of cast-iron.

Leaden pipes, wdiich it appears were used in the baths of ancient Rome, are incapable of being made suffi ciently strong — unless of enormous bulk — to resist the pressure of a large body of water. Hence the necessity for those noble and stately structures, which conveyed whole rivers from their distant mountain beds into the heart of Rome, and whose vast and massive ruins still cumber the desolate Campagna for miles around. From the reservoir we descended to the valley to the public promenade, a shady and elegant walk, overshadowed by lofty trees, divided by hedges of myrtle, and ornamented with a handsome fountain, and ponds for gold-fish. The entrance of the promenade from the town, is from the Praca do Roncio, the second largest square in Lisbon. This square is chiefly famous as having been, in former times, the theatre of that most glori ous triumph of the holy apostolic church of Rome, tbe Auto-da-fe.