A Glance of Belgium and the Rhine

Front matter

A GLANCE OF BELGIUM AND THE RHINE. A GLANCE OF BELGIUM AND THE RHINE, 11V THOMAS RAMSAY, ESQ. The Scheldt, the goodly Meuse, the rich and viny Bhine ; And all the Belgian streams, and neighbouring floods of Gaul Drayton. LONDON: JOHN OLLIVIER, 59, PALL MALL. 1845. TO HIS GRACE THE DUKE OF BUCCLEUCH AND QUEENSBERRY, K.G. AND K.T. LORD PRIVY SEAL, ETC. ETC. Œfjisi unpr.tcrrtJtng Volume, DESCRIPTIVE OP A BRIEF TOUR IS BELGIUM AND THE LOWER RHINE, IS, BY HIS GRACE'S KIND PERMISSION, MOST RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY ONE WHO LONG ENJOYED THE HONOUR OF HIS GRACE'S PATRONAGE AND FAVOUR IN THE FAITHFUL ADVOCACY OF THOSE PRINCIPLES, THE TRIUMPH OF WHICH HAS SECURED TO THE REALM, IN THE COUNCILS OF THE SOVEREIGN, THE VALUABLE SERVICES OF A NOBLEMAN WHOSE VIRTUES ARE AS EXALTED AS HIS NAME IS ILLUSTRIOUS.

Preface

. The Author of the following " Glance," has little apology to offer in excuse for inviting the travel-loving public, to pursue with him so oft described and beaten a track, as that of Belgium and the Rhine, beyond a wish to contribute his humble mite of information respecting countries and people with which so many circumstances are conspiring to draw our own nation into closer bonds. Few districts of Europe abound with objects of deeper interest, than those which he has here attempted, however feebly, to sketch, — whether it be in historic fame, in architectural antiquity, in picturesque scenery, or in romantic legend; and he has taken occasion to throw in a few reflections upon the social character of Belgium and Rhenish-Prussia, more particularly with refe rence to the religious influence that everywhere pervades it, which at least imparts a feature of novelty to such a work, and perhaps may

PREFACE.

. VIII guide in rightly estimating the higher privileges of our own country. Every honest endeavour to entertain, if not to inform, the public mind with accounts of foreign countries, comparatively familiar, though they may have been made by preceding tourists, has a claim to indulgence. The results of travel are always interesting, and often important ; and few fields are so thoroughly gleaned, as to leave nothing at all for those who may come after, — whilst there is something even in the style of presenting the same scenes, and relating the same circumstances, which will frequently re-invest them with force and freshness. And all this, without pretending to any appropriation of the well known words of the Latin poet : — " In novafert animus mutatas diccre formas Corpora." Lord Bacon is unquestionably right, when he says, — " It is a strange thing that in sea-voyages, where there is nothing to be seen but sky and sea, men should make diaries ; but in land travel, wherein so much is to be observed, for the most part they omit it, as if chance were fitter to be registered than observation. Let diaries, therefore, be brought into use."

PREFACE.

. IX The present generation of tourists certainly seems to have profited by this recommendation ; and the remembrance of the numerous note books which he saw in use on his route, has caused the author no little hesitation in thus putting forth the contents of his own journal. He trusts, however, that the cursory retrospect may not be regarded without indulgence, even by those, who, going over the same ground, perhaps in the same train or packet with him, have made better and fuller observations, and have wanted only his temerity in giving them to the public, to ensure a far higher success, and communicate a far more valuable quota of infor mation and amusement. The tour to which this " Glance" refers, was made by a small party of friends, which will account for the frequent use of the pro noun we. London, May, 1845. Page 9 15 CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Voyage To Antwerp

Embarkation — Our Passengers — The Humber — An old acquaintance — The German Ocean — The shores of Holland — Mouth of the Scheldt — Flushing — At Anchor — The Scheldt — Anchor heaved — Approach Antwerp — Arrival at the Quay — Custom-House Officers — Passports — The landing ....

Chapter II. The City Of Antwerp

Past and present state of the City — Tradition of its Origin — Siege of Antwerp — Walk to the Hotel St. Antoine — Our disposal in that famous hostelry — The Inquisitor — Breakfast — Belgian Soldiers — Satue of Rubens

Chapter III. Churches Of Antwerp

Notre Dame — The Pictures of Rubens — " The Descent from the Cross" — Anecdote of that celebrated Picture — " The Elevation of the Cross" — " Assumption," and "Resurrection from the Tomb" — Other works of Art — Early Worshippers — Solemnity ofthe place — Ascent of the Tower — Extensive prospect — Threat of General Chasse — Quentin Metsys CONTENTS. Page 24 30 38 43 30

Chapter IV. Churches Of Antwerp, Concluded

Church of St. Jacques — Tomb of Rubens — His Pictures — Church of St. Andre — Church of St. Charles Borromee Seghers' picture of the Crucifixion — Church of St. Paul — Series of Pictures — Model of Mount Calvary — Other Churches . . . . .

Chapter V. Walk Through Antwerp

The Royal Academy and its Students — The Musee d'- Anvers — The Tableaux — Rubens' Chair — An accidental meeting — The Docks and Entrepot — The Bourse — The Town Hall — Rubens' House— The Theatre — Shops and Shopping — The Market, and the Market Women — Madonnas in the streets — Return to the Hotel — The Table d'H6te .....

Chapter VI

Another Ramble — The Quays — The Place d'Armes— The Citadel — Fortresses— Revisit Notre Dame — Vespers — Departure —The Railway Station

Chapter VIII

Start for Malines — Arrival at the Station — The Town Its Churches, &c. — Departure for Brussels — Objects on the road — The Plain of Montplaisir and its Sports Laeken — The Brussels Station — Arrival at the Grand Hotel de Saxe CONTENTS. XIII Page 60 80 86 96 107

Chapter IX

Brussels — Early History — Aspect and Arrangement of the City — The Park — Royal Palaces — Palace of the Fine Arts — Botanical Garden -Observatory — Shops — Hotel de Ville— Battle of Waterloo— Manekin-Pis— The Allee Verte . . . . .

Chapter X

The Mint — The Bourse — Commercial Club — The Docks — Commerce and Manufactures of Brussels

Chapter XI

The Cathedral : — its Sculpture, Grand Altar, and Magnificent Pulpit — Early Worshippers — Churches of St. Sablon, St. Nicholas, St. Catherine, and St. Jacques — English Chapels — Defects ofthe Anglo-Catholic System in Brussels — Education — Morals and Manners of the People — Charitable Institutions

Chapter XII

A Sunday at Brussels — Festival of the Inauguration — Services at the Cathedral — The Place des Martyrs — High Mass— State of the Streets — Grand Military Reception at the Cathedral — TheTe Deum — The Park and its Attractions — The Caf£s — Theatres— Peaceful close of the Fete . . . ■

Chapter XIII

Table d'Hote — An Englishman's Vagaries — Society of Brussels — Theatre Royal — Brussels as a place of residence — King Leopold — The Fine Arts— Palace of Laeken . . . . . CONTENTS.

Chapter XIV

Page An Excursion to Waterloo — Early Start — Village of Waterloo— Mont St. Jean — Sergeant-Major Cotton - Breakfast — Walk to the Battle-field — Monuments — La Haye Sainte — La Belle Alliance — Belgian Mound — Hugomont — Farm-house Hospitality — Nivelles Road — Return to Mont St. Jean — Waterloo Church — Spleen of the French Troops in 1832 — Memorial to the Duke — Forest of Ardennes — Return to Brussels 11.

Chapter XV

Departure from Brussels — The Railway — Route by Malines, Louvain, Tirlemont, Neervinden, Landen, and Limburg — Ans — Arrival at Liege — Hotel d'Angleterre — Churches of Liege — Hotel de Ville — Palais de Justice — Facilities for Manufactures and Commerce— Cockerill's .Manufactory at Seraing — University and other institutions — Citadel — Quentin Durward — Liege and its transformations — Victor Hugo's Description — Chaudfontaine and Spa .... 136

Chapter XVI

Departure from Liege — The Railway Station — Scenery on the line of Road — Verviers — Prussian Frontier — Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle— The Douane — The Cathedral — Charlemagne, his Tomb aud Reliques — The Hochmunster — The Treasury and its Reliques — The Hotel de Ville — The Spas — Gaming — The Redoute — State of the Town — Departure — Arrival at Cologne — The Rhine . 152

Chapter XVII

Cologne — The City at night — The Cathedral — Tomb of the Three Kings — Restoration, and contemplated Completion ofthe Edifice— The Museum — Churches of St. Peter, St. Ursula, &c— The Stadhaus — Present state ofthe City, its Trade, Manufactures, &c. etc. . CONTENTS. XV Page 199 217 231 237

Chapter XVIII

Steam Navigation of the Rhine — Embarkation — The Steamer's Table d'Hote— Bonn — The Seven Mountains — The Drachenfels and Rolandseck — Scenery of the Rhine — Remagen — Lintz — Andernach — Neuwied — Tbe Moselle — Arrival at Coblentz

Chapter XIX

A MORNING AT COBLENTZ. The Luxury of German Beds — Apostrophe to the Rhine and the Moselle — An early Morning Walk — Cross the Moselle — Ramble up its Banks — Peasant Girls on their way to Market — Monumental Obelisk — A Conjecture — Beautiful Prospect — Return to Coblentz— The Old Town — The Market-Place —Churches — Romanism and Anglo-Catholicism contrasted — Regain our Gasthof — Breakfast .....

Chapter XX

A WALK UP EHRENEREITSTEIN. Anticipations — The Bridge of Boats — Ascent of the Rocky Mount — The Castle Yard — A Repulse — An Adventure— German Politeness — The Fortress — View from the Heights — Return to Coblentz

Chapter XXI

Exhibition of the Holy Coat at Treves — Account of the Pilgrimages— Their Deplorable Effects — Denunciation of the Imposture by a Catholic Priest of Silesia — His Excommunication — Appeal for the foundation of a German Catholic Church . . CONTENTS. Page 254 265 274 285

Chapter XXII

Religion in the Districts of the Rhine — The German Lutherans — Religious Degeneracy in Germany — Education — Luther's Advantages — Failure of Lutheranism as a National Church — Importance of Episcopacy — The Prussian Establishment .... CHAPTER XXin. The proposed German-Catholic Church — The '' media via" ofthe Church of England to be imitated — Further Proceedings of Ronge — Secession of Romish Priests and Congregations in his favour — The Confesssion of Faith put forth by him and his followers — Its Latitudinarianism — Fear6 that the Movement will, after all, only be Sectarian . . . . . '

Chapter XXIV

Ascent ofthe Rhine from Coblentz — Its Scenery — Boppard — The Cat and the Mouse — St. Goar — Tradition of Bishop Hatto — The Nahe — Hesse-Darmstadt — Bingen — Apostrophe to the Rhine

Chapter XXV

Mayence — Kastel — Scenery ofthe Upper Rhine — Frankfort — Return to Mayence — Descent of the Rhine — Coblentz — Continued Descent — Passengers in the Steam-Boat — Bonn — Cologne — Adieu to the Rhine CONTENTS. XVII

Chapter XXVI

Page Leave Cologne — The Prusso-Belgic Railway —Aix-la- Chapelle at Night — A Morning Scene — Departure for Belgium — The Belgian Frontier — Verviers — English Workmen abroad — Louvain — Mechlin . . 303

Chapter XXVII

The Railway to Ghent — Dendermond — The Scheldt — Ghent — Bruges — Ostend — Retrospect of Belgium — Conclusion ...... A GLANCE OF BELGIUM AND THE RHINE.

Chapter I. Voyage To Antwerp

Embarkation — Our Passengers — The Humber — An old acquaintance — The German Ocean — The shores of Holland— Mouth of the Scheldt— Flushing— At anchor— The Scheldt — Anchor heaved — Approach Antwerp — Arrival at the Quay — Custom-House Officers — Passports — The landing. It was a fine summer's evening that saw my friends and me embark at Hull on board that crack steam-ship, the Princess Victoria, for Antwerp. We drove in haste to the dock where she lay, apprehensive her appointed hour of departure having come, she should, like time and tide, wait for no man. But, though her steam was already up, we found that all our hurry might have been spared ; for a full hour's grace was given to all and sundry who came to crowd her decks; and notwithstanding our B VOYAGE TO anxiety to " get under way/' as they have it., it was impossible to regret the delay which enabled us to enjoy, over a parting cup of wine in the steamer's handsome saloon, the lingering adieus of those " troops of friends" who had so kindly assembled to grace our departure.

At length all was ready : the railway train had arrived, and brought us its tribute of voyagers from those western and northern districts, to which the route by Hull to the continent offers such great advantages, — bales of manufactured goods, and piles of passengers' luggage, were shipped with great expedition, — the captain, mounted aloft, gave the word to let go the hawsers, and, that accomplished, to set on the engine ; and we moved out of the dock basin amidst a din of discordant cries, needful, it would seem, to clear the way into the then placid but muddy Humber, adown which we swiftly glided into the German Ocean. The bustle and excitement of departure over, we had leisure to look around, and scan the crowd composing our compagnons du voyage. We formed, in all, a goodly company, — there was a slight sprinkling of the fair sex to soften and enliven us, — and when we assembled, during our passage down the river, at the well-stored ANTWERP. 3 tea-table, we became at once a social party.

I had noticed, soon after we got on board, a gentleman whose face was somewhat familiar to me, though it was difficult to call to mind who he was, or when we had met. At tea he was my opposite neighbour, and some fine broiled salmon on the table before us introduced the subject of salmon-fishing in Scotland, his remarks upon which more than ever assured me that we were not unknown to each other. Having finished our slight but refreshing repast, we all returned to the quarter-deck, and there an opportunity soon occurred of questioning my supposed acquaintance, in whom I was not mistaken. He was a highly respected minister of the Kirk of Scotland, well known to me some few years before in the midst of a people to whom his virtues and his piety had much en deared him. His object in going abroad it soon turned out, was what might have been guessed from his languid and care-worn looks — that of health and recreation.

He was on his way to one of the German spas in the Upper Rhine. The meeting was to me a pleasing " incident of travel." Most of us remained on deck until some time after night-fall, for it was perfectly calm, and the sea quite smooth. All " turned VOYAGE TO in" for the night with reluctance, and almost regret. We mustered in strong force to breakfast next morning. The night had passed off happily, and the next morning was everything that could be wished. All appeared eager to return to the quarter-deck, which was rarely quitted throughout the day, save for dinner. The weather continued uninterruptedly fine, — " The blue above, and the blue below*.' As the day advanced, land was anxiously looked for ; but our delay at Hull having lost us the advantage of a flowing tide, the vessel did not make that way which otherwise she would have done.

It was about half past three in the afternoon when the low shore of Holland was first descried, or rather the spires of two or three churches, for these were seen before the land upon which they reared their heads. The Dutch coast, as it gradually came in view, presented little in itself to interest the wayfarer, being low, bleak, and sandy, with nothing whatever to relieve it, if we except the aforesaid steeples, which are few and far-between. We now rapidly approached the mouth of the Scheldt, and in a little time saw the town of Flushing, situated in the island of Walcheren — ANTWERP. a place which war has rendered famous as the scene of many a fearful conflict. As we drew near the place we saw much to interest us. Its appearance is rather picturesque, as seen from the water : a beautiful spire rises above the town, the buildings of which have a de cidedly Flemish character about them ; and a basin separating it from the river, seemed to inclose a good deal of shipping.

A Dutch war steamer was at anchor in the roads. We took on board a pilot here, to conduct us up the Scheldt, which we continued to ascend until past nine o'clock, when the darkness rendering our further progress unsafe, owing to the shoals that pre vail, the anchor was cast, and we soon after wards retired to our berths, not a little disap pointed, it must be confessed, that we had not succeeded in reaching Antwerp to sleep. The Scheldt had by this time assumed more the appearance of a river. It is certainly a noble stream. Rising out of a small lake in Picardy, its course to the ocean is estimated at 150 British miles, without including its windings, the tide rising in it fifteen feet, and running up as far as Ghent, thirty miles of direct distance above Antwerp. We had anchored above Fort Lillo.

Below this fort the Scheldt VOYAGE TO divides into two branches : one called the Eastern Scheldt, flows by Bergen-op-Zoom ; the other the Western Scheldt, proceeds to Flushing. The islands formed at their confluence with the German Ocean, are called the Isles of Zeeland. By day-break the anchor was heaved — the steam set on — and we again proceeded on our way. It was a delightful morning. The sun was rising in great brilliancy when most of us re-appeared on the quarter-deck, anxious to view the now improving scenery of the Scheldt. In a little while the lofty tower of Antwerp Cathedral was discerned, — a truly noble object ; and soon afterwards we saw, one by one, the steeples of the other churches. Gradually the whole city was disclosed to our view, enveloped in a blaze of light, the sun rising gloriously over its spires and turrets.

The scene, as we ad vanced, became more and more interesting. The banks of the river, though still flat, wore a much more cultivated and agreeable appearance; and the country around Antwerp, which we were now rapidly approaching, with the city itself towering grandly above all, had an en livening effect. The vessel now became a scene of great bustle and animation. The baggage ANTWERP. was got out, and claimed, and set aside ; coats, cloaks, and other travelling requisites, were brought up and assorted, and other preparations made for examination and debarkation. The deep-toned bell of the Cathedral clock struck five as we reached the quay, which even at that early hour was all alive with cabmen, porters, and custom-house officers, waiting to receive us. It is planted with trees like the quays in Hol land ; the houses which front it , are well built, and tastefully painted, and altogether it pre sents an inviting aspect.

Scarcely had we come to a standstill ere the porters began to affix a passage to the vessel, after a most ingenious fashion. Two long poles of considerable circumference, were thrust off from the quay, some four or five feet apart, upon which the nimble fellows got astride and affixed a number of cross poles securely with cords : upon these three or four strong planks of the requisite length were placed ; and thus a safe and convenient passage was furnished from the shore to the ship. I had seen the same contrivance before; but never so skilfully and expeditiously effected. It was the work of but a few minutes — yet it was as secure and in all respects as sufficient for the purpose, as any regular gang-way could be. ANTWERP. We were all struck with the activity of the Ant werpians, and thought it superior, in its way, to any thing we had seen in our own country.

Ere the gang-way was wholly laid, the police and Custom-house officers, all equipped a la mili taire, hastened on board. Our passports were demanded and taken possession of, a note being made of the hotel to which each party was going, and an assurance given that they should be returned to us there, as soon as they had been inspected by le verificateur des passeports. Our baggage was all ready for the examination of the Custom-house gentlemen, which they made very slightly, having first asked if we had any thing to declare ; and each package being chalked with some, to us quite unintelligible, hieroglyphic or other, we were permitted to land, and take our traps along with us.

Chapter II. The City Of Antwerp

Past and present state of the city— Tradition of its origin— Siege of Antwerp— Walk to the Hotel St. Antoine — Our disposal in that famous hostelry — The Inquisitor— Breakfast — Belgian Soldiers — Statue of Rubens. This celebrated city, which in Flemish is called Antwerpen, in French Anvers, was formerly the pride ofthe Netherlands. It is situated on the right bank of the river, and is in the form of a drawn bow ; the string of which would be the Scheldt. In the zenith of its commercial splendour, Antwerp had 13 gates, 74 bridges over the eight canals in the town, 200 streets, and 22 magnificent squares. It is now much shorn of all this greatness and grandeur ; though it is still a fine town. It has a population of about 78,000 ; and there are upwards of 160 streets and squares, and several canals within its walls.

The magnificence of its churches, — the beauty of its buildings, — the elegance of many of its mansions, and the vastb ANTWERP. ness of its naval basins, and entrepots, com bine to render it a remarkable place. There is a tradition as to its origin that is worth relating; and as it is still symbolled in the civic emblems and festivals, there is more in it, one would think, than what is merely fabulous. There existed, it is said, about the time that Cæsar invaded Belgium, a giant named Anti gon, who levied tribute upon all the merchandise that passed up the Scheldt ; and whenever any merchant or skipper was detected attempt ing to evade or deceive in the amount of it, Monsieur Antigon, having of course a giant's strength, and holding no idea of any tyranny in using it like a giant, not only confiscated the whole cargo, but also cut off the hand of the wight so offending, and threw it into the river.

At length one Salvius Brabon, or Brabant, killed the giant — having first subjected him to the same punishment that he had inflicted upon his victims. From that time, continues the legend, the castle in which the giant resided received the name of Antwerpen, from the Flemish words And a hand, and Werpen to cast. The statue of the giant still figures in all the solemn pro cessions of the citizens ; and in the city arms may be seen two hands and a triangular castle. ANTWERP. Antwerp has been the object of many a famous siege, the scene of many a sanguinary conflict. One of the most celebrated sieges in history is that which the city withstood in 1485 from the Prince of Parma. In 1809 it was attacked by the English, who were repulsed, and again in 1814, when General Carnot successfully resisted the besiegers, and only sur rendered to the allies after the treaty of Paris.

The siege ofthe Citadel in 1832, by the French and Belgians, with the gallant resistance of the Dutch General Chasse, is scarcely less memorable than any that had preceded it. The city is still environed with a strong wall, planted with rows of trees on each side, with broad walks between ; and it is also still protected by the famous Citadel. Having committed our baggage to the care of a porter, we walked up the well drawn streets that lead direct from the quay into the heart of the city, en route for the justly celebrated Hotel St. Antoine, in the Place Verte. We were a large party in all, and cut a formidable, though somewhat grotesque appearance, as we marched along, decked out in every variety of voyaging costume. The stillness of the town at that early hour ANTWERP. only added to the interest, not to say solemnity, of our procession.

Early though it was, how ever, many of the more thrifty and industrious citizens were already preparing for the business of the day, several shops being open, and their occupants quietly at work within. The gates of the hotel court yard were open, and quite a suite of domestiques in readiness, to receive, and dispose of us, to our hearts' content. The first thing was to claim our baggage from the por ter's charrette ; and the confusion was scarcely over, ere it got " worse confounded," by the somewhat difficult process of stowing us away, each in his own cabin, to prepare — which all seemed in haste to do — for the active duties of the day that was before us. I had made but little progress at my toilette, when the maitre d'-hotel come in to inquire my name, country, age, profession, and destination, to be inserted in a printed form, with blank lines for filling up, upon a broad sheet.

He made many apo logies for the inquisitorial nature of his visit to me — but it was the custom of the country, and the hotel ; " and when we are at Rome, you know," he added, in not ungraceful English, " we must do as they do at Rome." Having assented to his argument, my description was ANTWERP. 13 filled in ; and he left me, with a low bow, to per form the same formal ceremony with my next door neighbour ; and so on, no doubt, through the whole importation of the morning — " 'Tis his vocation, Hal." It is required of him, as an officer of police, to inquire into, and register the swarms of all nations who throng the hostelry ; although an Englishman may consider it rather imperti nent curiosity, and be apt to exclaim, " shall I not take mine ease in mine inn," without all this inquisition about me ?

The practice has its uses, nevertheless. The salle-a-manger of the St. Antoine, is as handsome a public room as one meets with, even upon the continent ; and scarcely had the bells of Notre Dame chimed six, ere parties be gan to crowd its well stored tables for breakfast, our own among the rest. We were anxious to begin our survey of the city without loss of time. The Cathedral had our first regards ; and thither we hied immediately that our fast had been broken. Ere we got into the street, our ears were greeted w ith the dulcet, and in spiriting strains of military music ; and we found the Place Verte filled with soldiers, who ANTW'ERP. were marched off upon our approaeh, and whom we sometime afterwards met in another part of the town : they appeared to be on pa rade, and to be making a circuit of the city, as it were, under marching orders.

The Belgian troops have by no means the fine martial appearance of their neighbours, the Prussians ; they are generally smaller men, their dress and accoutrements hang somewhat slovenly about them — and their carriage and deportment indi cate the raw recruit, rather than the well trained soldier. This was our first impression ; and we saw much to confirm it upon a further acquaintance with the army of Belgium. The Place Verte, which is a square planted with trees, contains a noble statue of Rubens, standing upon a massive pedestal. It was erected only two or three years ago, with much pomp, in honour of the great master, whom Antwerp has so much reason to be proud of numbering amongst her departed citizens.

Chapter III. Churches Of Antwerp

Notre Dame— The Pictures of Rubens—" The Descent from the Cross" — Anecdote of that celebrated Picture — " The Elevation of the Cross" — " Assumption," and " Resurrection from the Tomb" — Other works of Art — Early Worshippers — Solemnity ofthe place— Ascent of the Tower — Extensive prospect — Threat of General Chasse --Quentin Metsys. A few minutes walk brought us directly op posite to the western door of the cathedral, and we gazed upon its lofty and beautiful steeple with thrilling interest and admiration. The scene was curious and imposing. It was market day morning; and the space around, filled as it was with fruits and vegetables, and bustling with business, contrasted strangely with the solemn grandeur of the sacred edifice. The Cathedral of Antwerp is justly considered one of the finest pieces of gothic architecture in Europe.

The steeple, upon which our eyes were long and delightfully riveted, is of such admirable workmanship that Charles V. used to say it ought to be kept in a case, and only shewn on holidays. It is 466 feet high, and contains a spiral staircase of 620 steps. The construction of the building was begun in the middle of the thirteenth century, and occupied ninety-six years. The choir was not built until 1521 ; and yet, though "years have into centuries run," since its erection, it is still a solid and sub stantial, as well as splendid pile, and likely to resist the ravages of time for centuries more of his course. It was at this period undergoing a thorough repair — which has been in progress, indeed, for the last five or six years — and seemed in a fair way of being made as sound, and as beautiful, as in its early days.