A Glance at Revolutionized Italy: a visit to Messina, and a tour through the Kingdom of Naples, the States of the Church, Tuscany, Genoa, Piedmont ... in the summer of 1848

Front matter

A GLANCE AT REVOLUTIONIZED ITALY a Ffett to JWeggina, V N D A TOUR THROUGH THE KINGDOM OF NAPLES, THE ABRUZZI, THE MARCHES OF ANCONA, ROME, THE STATES OF THE CHURCH, TUSCANY, GENOA, PIEDMONT, &c, &c, IN THE SUMMER OF 1818. By CHARLES MAC FARLANE, AUTHOR OF CONSTANTINOPLE IN 1S28, THE ROMANCE OF ITALIAN HISTORY HISTORY OF THE FRENCH REVOLUTION .SPORTS, PASTIMES, AND RECOLLECTIONS OF THE SOUTH OF ITALY, Sec. &c. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I LONDON: SMITH, ELDER, AND CO., 65, CORNHILL. 1849. London : Printed by W. Clowes and Son.-*, Stamford Street.

Preface

. Italy is not a new country to me. I lived in it from the month of January, 1816, to the month of May, 1827, having quitted it only for a few months during that long space of time, to make a visit to England. When I left it for the East, in 1827, its language and literature were nearly as familiar to me as my own. I had travelled through every part of the Peninsula, not excepting the Abruzzi, the Calabrias, Apu lia, and other rarely visited provinces and districts. Without being blind to the defects of their varied character (a character so varied, not only in different states, but in different pro vinces, and in various parts of the same province, that it is impossible to generalize it or to speak of it as a national or one Italian character) — without being insensible to the vices which re quired and still demand reform — I had, and I still have, not only a passionate admiration for a

PREFACE.

. their beautiful country, but a warm affection for the Italian people in general. During my long absence I had maintained some correspondence with old friends in the country, and I had directed my attention to the progress of its literature, to the schemes executed or suggested for the social improvement of the people, and to the various unfortunate, precocious attempts to revolutionize the Peninsula, to expel the Aus trians, and to establish constitutional governments. Being at Constantinople in the month of June last, I had to choose my route home wards. I had intended to ascend the Danube, to visit the principalities of Moldavia and Wal lachia, to pass through Transylvania, and to find my way to Vienna through a part of Hun gary. But insurrections and revolutions, or the ill-augured war of races, were raging all along the banks of the Danube ; the season was too far advanced ; the terrible malaria fevers of the Danube had begun, and the cholera was bad at Galatz and other places through which we must pass. We could not return by the Adriatic Sea, Friuli, and the Tyrol, for the port of Trieste was blockaded by the squadrons

PREFACE.

. V ofthe King of Sardinia, the steamboats of the Austrian Lloyd Company had ceased to run, and the southern mouth of the Tyrolese valley and the country in advance of it were then the theatre of a fierce war. To every other route there were objections, more or less serious. Persons who prized their tranquillity, and who felt a fearful uncertainty as to the course which revolution and war might run, saw no safe way of reaching England except by making the whole voyage by sea. To this I had serious objections. I had, moreover, a strong desire to see Italy under her new aspects, and some friends earnestly advised me to go through that country, flattering me with their belief that the observations of an old resident like myself might, at the present moment, be interesting, and, perhaps, of some public and political utility.

Even when Charles Albert was in the field, and hostilities were in full progress, it seemed not difficult to avoid the theatre of actual war, and to traverse without interruption the whole country, from the Bay of Naples to the Alps. If the prospect of difficulty had been much greater than it was, the ardent desire to see VI

PREFACE.

. again the scenes and places where I had passed many happy days, and to meet those Italian friends from whom I had been so long separated, would, in all probability, have induced me to take this route. Having made up my mind, I lest Constantinople for Smyrna and Malta on the 4th of July. It will be seen that even during my residence in the Turkish capital I was brought in contact with many Italians— men from all parts of the Peninsula, and of nearly every possible colour and shade of political opinions ; that in that numerous colony I saw something like a prelude to the revolutions which have since been played off; and that I had the opportunity of witness ing the effects produced by the arrival and rather long sojourn of the first Papal nuncio to the Ottoman Porte. These circumstances served as a key to some of the mysteries.

I have declared that I have a warm affection for the Italian people in general. I repeat that declaration, after having made a new survey of them and their country, and after having written the volumes which are now before the public, and in which, most assuredly, many Italians

PREFACE.

. VII will find motives for condemnation and censure. In wishing every good to the Italians, and ultimate success to their too-hurried scheme of nationality and union, I could not but con demn the violent factious men, the visionary republicans and impracticable rhetoricians, who have misled the more active portion of the people, and have spoiled their chance of success. Nor would my literary conscience permit me to indulge in that suppressio veri which some of my Italian friends seem to consider necessary or favourable to the cause they have in hand. I have narrated that which I saw and heard precisely as I saw and heard it. If I have said more of the extreme liberal or anarchical party than of any other, it is be cause that party was loudest and most active, and constantly on the scene ; and because I believe that faction to be answerable for so many evils which have taken place, and for so much mischief which is yet in prospect.

I may please no party whatever, because I have endea voured to tell the truth of all ; I shall be cursed by the fanatics of " Young Italy," but I shall not forfeit the good opinion of ihe friends of

PREFACE.

. VIII rational liberty, nor lose the affection of those in the country whose friendship, for the most part, dates from twenty-five to thirty years ago. As the explanation may be given in a very few words, it may be as well to state that I was accompanied in my travels by my eldest son, a youth of sixteen. This is why the pronoun We so frequently occurs in the book. London, January, 1849. CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

Chapter I

Commencement of the Italian Movement — Pope Pius IX. — The Italian Liberals at Constantinople — A Te Deum and a Dinner — Count Sturmer — The Pope's Nuncio to the Sultan — Revolutions — Carlo Alberto — A Venetian Republican — Beards and Whiskers — Revolution Hats — Riots . . Page 1

Chapter II

Italians at Smyrna — At Malta — Absurd Quarantine — Lazzaretto — Weak Garrison — Neapolitan War-Steamer — Neapolitan Patriots — A Tailor Patriot — Jesuits — Fugitive Princes — Hereditary Prince of Parma — Prince of Capua — Sicilian Revolutionists . . . . . . . . 27

Chapter III

A French Steamer — Prince of Parma — A Carlist Colonel — Henri de Bourbon — An Armenian Drogoman — Italian Liberals — A Sicilian — Arrive at Messina — General Pronio — Revolutionary aspect — Newspaper falsehoods — The Arsenal — Placards — Patriots and Pickpockets .... 42

Chapter IV

Naples — The English Fleet — City Improvements — Lazzaroni — Corriboli — Palazzo Gravina — Theatre of San Carlo — The Neapolitan Parliament — The King's Swiss Troops — New Schools for the Poor — Popular Superstition . . 67 VOL. I. b X CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

Chapter V

Naples — Cooks spoiled by Polities — Popularity of King Ferdinand — A Riot in the Toledo — Carlo Alberto — The Men of Santa Lucia — Decay of Trade and increase of National Debt — The Expedition against Messina . . . Page 83

Chapter VI

Naples — Chamber of Deputies — Rumours of counter-revolution — House of Peers — No men of business — Government Offices — The War Office — Elements of Democracy, &c. . . 96

Chapter VII

Naples — Political Propagandism — Character of King Ferdinand — Roman Catholic Intolerance — The Pope — Vincenzo Gioberti — Charles Albert — The Grand Duke of Tuscany — The 15th of May — The Neapolitan Barricades — Conduct of the King — Defeat of the Insurgents — Small amount of their loss . 107

Chapter VIII

Naples — The conduct ofthe King after the Barricades — Journalism — Trial by Jury — Misrepresentations of the King's conduct — Violence of the Chamber of Deputies at Turin — Recall of the King's troops from Lombardy — General William Pepe — Neapolitan Volunteers at Venice — Mefiance ! — Effect produced by withdrawing the Neapolitan troops — Lying Reports — General Statella — The Second Neapolitan Parliament — Seclusion of the King — Sicily — The Hon. W. Temple — Lord Napier — Lord Minto — Sir Edmund Lyons — X)ur Diplomacy in general ........ CONTENTS OF VOL. I. XI

Chapter IX

Castellamare — Railroads — Prosperous appearance of the People — Souvenirs — Improvements — Sir William Parker's Fleet — New Road to Sorrento — A Party at Sorrento — Music — The Duchess of Atri — A musical prodigy — Mr. Whiteside — Greatly improved Education — Domestic virtues — Moral tone of the Neapolitan Court — A night-drive — Aboard the English Fleet — Neapolitans at Palermo — Florestan Pepe — Calabrians as Soldiers — Sicilians and Neapolitans compared — Cruelty of the Palermitans — English occupation of Sicily — The Constitution of 1812 — Strange conduct of Admiral Parker — A forced Loan — The Palmerston Policy . . . Page 174

Chapter X

Pompeii — Works there all suspended — Distress — Recent discoveries — Barbarous practice of writing names — Stealing in the ruins — Maccaroni Manufactory — A Neapolitan Calesso — Smart driving — Museo Borbonico — Vandalism of the Liberali — Mr. Whiteside . 207

Chapter XI

Naples — Splendid new Cemetery — La Madonna del Pianto — Chapels and Tombs — Masses for the Dead, falling off — Complaints of a Franciscan — Ischia Passage-boat — A Hermit — Island and Town of Ischia — J. W. — General Florestan Pepe — Admiral Baudin — Agricultural Improvements — Pozzuoli — Prince of Ischitella — Vico di Pantano — Extensive Draining — Cure for Malaria — The King promotes Draining and Roadmaking — The late Duke of Rocca Romana and his Duel — A Festa — Populousness and general Aspect of Naples — The Air of a great Capital — Foreign Propagandists and Barricade- Makers — Grape-shot ready for them — Marshal Radetzky and Pope Pius CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

Chapter XII

Naples — Crowded Churches — Increase of devotion — Neapolitan Cabinet — Princes of Ischitella, Cariati, and Torella — Mergillina — Scenes at the Post Office — Midnight Mass — Departure from Naples — Aversa and its wine — Campagna Felice — Capua — Good state of Troops — The Valley of the Vulturnus — Admirable Roads — Improved condition of the Peasantry — Our queer Courier — Brigands — The Bandit Ranieri — Isernia — Castel di Sangro — Piano di Cinque Miglie — A Moon-light Battle — All Moonshine — Sulmona — State of Siege — Popoli — Chieti — Immense Improvements — Abruzzese hospitality ■ — Pescara — A Judge and his story — A Salt Harvest — Atri — Agricultural Improvements — Giulia Nuova — Neapolitan '• Middle Men " Page 245

Chapter XIII

Roman Frontier — Marches of Ancona — San Benedetto — Roman Patriots and Roman Beards — Porto di Fermo — Macbetto in Musica — Feuds — Prosperity of the Country — Loreto and the Santa Casa — A Cicerone who has been a Tragedian — The Jesuits — Rights of Women and Banquet of Citizenesses — A discussion — Unpopularity of the Pope — Beautiful Country — Ancona — Placards aud National Guards — Club Orators — A Whistling Stable-boy 282

Chapter XIV

Ancona — The fine Harbour — No trade — Improvements stopped — Streets — Suburbs — A Roman dragoon — Journey towards Rome — Osimo — Macerata — Improved Roads — Tolentino — Colfiorito — Foligno and its Patriots — Books — A Festa — Spoleto and Warriors Singing — Terni — A Monopoly — The Fall of the Velino — Narni and more Proclamations — Civita- Castellana and more National Guards — Baccano and Malaria Fevers — Rome ....... A GLANCE AT REVOLUTIONIZED ITALY.

Chapter I

Commencement of the Italian Movement — Pope Pius IX. — The Italian Liberals at Constantinople — A Te Deum and a Dinner — Count Stunner — The Pope's Nuncio to the Sultan — Revolutions — Carlo Alberto — A Venetian Republican — Beards and Whiskers — Revolution Hats — Riots. When I left England for the East in the month of July, 1847, the eyes of Europe were curiously intent on the reforms and changes of the new and most popular Pope, Pius IX., and on his more than half developed scheme for the federal union and inde pendence of all Italy. Some of these reforms chal lenged and obtained the admiration even of conser vative statesmen. In particular, the administration of the Roman states was, and long had heen, so de fective, so faulty and corrupt, that almost any change or attempt to change appeared as an improvement.

Generally the sympathies of Englishmen were with the Italians, and I believe there were few among us who would not have rejoiced to see the union and VOL. I. B ITALIAN LIBERALS AT CONSTANTINOPLE. independence of that country. Many thought that so desirable an end might be reached by perseverance and moderation, by progress of time and education, and without revolution and bloodshed. Others, how ever, had their doubts, and foresaw many evils and convulsions as likely to result from the new alliance between papacy and democracy — between thc infal lible pope and the sovereign people. Some were even of opinion that Pius IX. acted upon calculation as the head of the Romish church, and for the ex clusive benefit of that church ; and that he, seeing popery declining everywhere, thought he could give it fresh life and vigour by uniting himself with the liberals of Italy, and appealing to the political pre dilections or passions of the multitude.

Though a novelty in modern times, such an alliance between pope and people had not been unknown in the middle ages. A zealous Presbyte.rian friend of mine would never see in this present union and contract anything but the scarlet lady of Rome seated upon the many-headed beast ; and he predicted that, in the end, either the scarlet woman would slay the monster or the monster the scarlet woman. I had not been many days in Constantinople ere 1 thought I saw some inconsistency and hollowness in this new alliance. That city has always an im mense Italian colony, or a congeries of Italian colonies, not particularly distinguished by unity and concord, or by living quietly and amicably together. There were Neapolitans, Romans, Tuscans, Genoese, Piedmontese, Lombards, Venetians — many men from ITALIAN LIBERALS AT CONSTANTINOPLE. 3 almost every part of the Peninsula.

Among these were throngs of political refugees, unfortunate reformers or baulked revolutionists ; and great was the trouble of their respective ministers and consuls to keep peace among them. As in every other place where Italians abound, there were among this mixed multitude many men of good character and calm judgment — experienced men of the world, who could neither be mystified by a Gioberti, nor excited by a Mazzini. These individuals were happy at the administrative reforms of the Pope, and they spoke with warm admiration of the excellent manner in which Tuscany and Piedmont had long been administered ; they looked calmly but confidently forward to a gradual improvement of the whole of Italy; but they were decidedly r>f opinion that rashness and overhaste would destroy this bright prospect, and pheck that material prosperity and improvement which the whole of Italy had been enjoying since the peace of 1815.

But the men entertaining these opinions were certainly in the minority at Constantinople.' Tetes vertes et tetes chaudes — green heads and hot heads — predominated. The baulked revolutionists were one and all for trying again ; only scarcely two could be found who agreed in their schemes of revolution, or in the form of government to be set up when the revolution should be com pleted. Some of these fugitives, in default of other industry and occupation, had set themselves up as lawyers among the Franks of Pera and Galata. It was said that they made strange havoc with law ; but b2 ITALIAN LIBERALS AT CONSTANTINOPLE. this was not very noticeable in a country wherein, correctly speaking, there is no law at all. But their new profession or practice had sharpened their tongues and wits. They were a conceited, pre sumptuous, quarrelsome, pestilent set.

There was one of them, with a very dark name, that had a tongue and a temper sufficient to disturb the har mony of a celestial colony. Besides the disputes which he got up among the Italians with an eye to business, he was always engaged in some fierce quarrel and feud on his own account. In any other country on the continent of Europe he must have gotten his passport and orders to leave long ago ; but the Turks have a listlessness and indolence which often looks like toleration, and they care not how often or how savagely the Christian dogs tear one another to pieces. The reasonable portion of the Italians had frequently endeavoured to quench or cool this firebrand, and to preserve in the colony or colonies that degree of tranquillity and decency which especially became men living in a foreign, unchristian, and semibarbarous country.

These efforts had seldom been attended with much success. But at the time of our arrival there was a pleasant lull in the storm. All the Italians were wondrously united by love and admiration of the reforming Pope ; and while the enthusiasts ware anticipating a perfect millennium, all looked forward to a greatly improved state of things in their native country. " Long life to the Pope !" ( Viva Pio Nono !) were words chalked upon the walls, and written on paper, A TE DEUM AND A DINNER. 5 and placarded at the turning of nearly every street in the Christian suburbs ; and the heads of sundry Greeks had been broken, for that, in their schismatic hatred and jealousy, they had defaced some of these inscriptions. Liberali, who had never been seen in the churches before, but who had often been seen insulting or mocking the Catholic clergy of the place, went now regularly to mass or to prayers said for the Pope.

Nay, it was said that some of them — believers in no gospel except the gospel according to Helvetius, or D'Alembert, or Diderot, or Vol taire, or Rousseau — had carried their condescension or their gratitude so far as to kneel in public at the confessional, and, after confession, to take absolution from the monk or priest with contrite countenances. I believe that it was the second Sunday after our arrival that they had a grand celebration up in Pera, to rejoice at Pope Pius's happy or miraculous escape from assassination at Rome. There were those who did not believe that there had been any attempt to murder his Holiness, but who shrewdly suspected that that conspiracy had been gotten up by the Liberals to answer their own purposes and bind the Pope the more to their party. But let this pass.

I, for one, am contented to leave it among " Historical Doubts." In the morning they had a grand chanted mass and Te Deum in one of the Catholic churches ; in the evening they had a subscription dinner at Blondel's Hotel de France ; and at night they made grand illuminations all along " Les Petits Champs des Morts," or smaller Turkish cemetery. " Viva TRI-COJ-OUB RIBBON ASSUMED. Pio Nono !" was set forth in gigantic letters, composed of illumination-lamps ; there were other inscriptions, and a lighting of blue lights and a letting off of fire works ; and a great deal of music played by a stroll ing band, and much mixing of whiskers and beards and hugging and kissing among the patriots. We did not see the festa, having gone away the preceding evening to the Sultan's model farm at St. Stephano.

We were, however, assured that the celebration went off joyously and harmoniously ; that at the dinner they toasted his Sardinian Ma jesty Charles Albert after his Holiness the Pope ; that some of the Liberali were considerably excited by M. Blondel's champagne ; and that nothing oc curred to disturb the harmony of the meeting except a difficulty on the part of some of the patriots to pay their share of the reckoning. As the Pope took further strides on the road of reform, and as Charles Albert assumed a more war like and defiant attitude towards Austria, the ex patriated patriots became louder in their talk, and higher in their pretensions. They began to wear tri-colour ribbons — the green, white, and red being the tri-colours of Italy — and not satisfied with wearing these badges themselves, they pretended that every Italian in Turkey, or son, or grandson, or great-grandson of an Italian should also wear them.

Even in the shipping which arrived in port they would not tolerate the Bourbon flag of Naples, or the flag of Austria in Venetian or Dalmatian ships, or in any Italian vessel any other flag than COUNT STURMER. the revolutionary tri-colour— a flag which had not been acknowledged by any power whatsoever. Although it was not easy to discover how such a functionary or such a mission could affect the Italian cause, these liberals attached an amazing deal of importance to the coming of Bishop Ferrieri, the Pope's nuncio and envoy to Sultan Abdul Medjid. At length, in January, 1848, it was officially an nounced that the Nuncio had embarked on board of a Genoese man-of-war, belonging to the Pope's ally Charles Albert, and that he might be expected at Constantinople in a few days. The Italian colonists called a grand meeting to deliberate and decide upon the best means of giving the Nuncio a splendid reception.

They voted the erection of a triumphal arch, with appropriate inscriptions, down in Galata ; they voted that the whole body of the Italians, attired in their best, and wearing tri-colour scarfs and cockades, should meet the most reverend Signor at the landing place on the Golden Horn ; they voted that there should be a long procession of flags, and that a large tri-colour flag, with the inscription " Union and Independence of all Italy," should head the procession in going and returning. Placards were printed and stuck up, containing the abstracts of these votes, together with a call upon every Italian in the country to be present on the occasion, and to comport himself as a true Italian patriot and unionist. Count Sturmer, the Austrian ambassador to the Porte, who had been frequently annoyed and vexed before, took umbrage at the union and inde- ARRIVAL OF THE NUNCIO. pendence banner ; and, representing to the Porte that a very considerable part of upper Italy belonged to his master the Emperor, he obtained from Res chid Pasha, the Grand Vizier, and from Ali Pasha, the minister of foreign affairs, a positive order that the Italian processionists should not carry thc national or revolutionary flag.

They were left free to carry any other flag, device, or emblem. The chiefs of the movement party decided that, as they could not carry the tri-colour national banner, they would carry nothing at all, and get up no procession to receive the Nuncio. They put out flaming papers in print to this effect. Count Sturmer received menacing and truculent letters ; and Reschid Pasha, as head of this absolute government of Turkey, was applied to, as one that ought to be favourable to Italian unionism and constitutionalism; and those who addressed him did not neglect to remind him of those days when the Turks were thundering at the gates of Vienna, and those other days when Austria, conquering Belgrade, was strong along the line of the Danube, and threatened the walls of Constantinople. At last the Nuncio arrived.

He came to the Golden Horn on Sunday, the 16th of January — one of the gloomiest of days. The snow, wafted from the Black Sea, was lying knee-deep in Pera, and there was a fog along the sea of Marmora, and in the port of Constantinople, and along the Bospho rus, which might have rivalled the worst of our fogs in the valley of the Thames. There was no TRIUMPHAL ARCH. 9 procession, no Italian national flag to receive him : but the triumphal arch was left standing. Not that that arch was more than an erection of painted deal-boards and lath and plaster. It annoyed my nationality to see and know that this papistical triumphal arch — this blazoned but contemptible structure, which annoyed every Englishman in the place (though it delighted one or two Irishmen) — was erected by an Englishman, calling himself an architect.

To mention the name of Smith, is to speak in nubibus — it implies ' no more than Jack or Bob, or Tom or Will — it is a name that names nobody. But the " Smith" of whom I speak is a man who must have been caught in the woods, and (so well do we manage these matters) he was em ployed and sent out by the "Woods and Forests" to build up a palace or ambassadorial residence, to supply the place of that which had been burnt in the great conflagration of 1830. His arch was erected at the top of Galata, a little before you come to the great Genoese tower, commonly called the Tower of Galata, in the part of the Christian suburb where dead dogs, dead cats, dead rats, and all other abominations do most abound. Coming from Rome, or from any — the worst — part of Italy, the Pope's legate must have been sorely annoyed in sight, in smell, and in his other senses.

On the architrave was inscribed, in gigantic letters, " Viva Pio Nono," and under that line, in still more gigantic letters, " Pio IX. Pontifex Max. et Opt." Such as it was, the Pope's Nuncio went through it, or under it. And POLICY OF RESCHID PASHA. ■> bad as it was in taste, and unfair as a distribution of honour to a diplomatic man, Monsignore Ferrieri might flatter himself that he, the first envoy from the Pope of Rome to the Sultan of Turkey, had received more honour, or semblance of honour, than had been paid to any, the most distinguished repre sentative of the greatest power in Christendom. The wooden triumphal arch remained some days or weeks after the representative of the Pontifex Opti mus et Maximus had passed under it. The whole thing appeared to me out of place, and preposter ous.

Yet was it curious to see that, coincidently in date, the Mussulman Sultan of Turkey, thc repre sentative at least for a large part of the Mahometan world, agreed to receive, and in part helped to receive, with extraordinary honours and jubilations, and for the first time, a representative and, politically, an alter ego of his Holiness, just as we in England were deliberating in Parliament on the propriety or impropriety of renewing, for the first time since we have been a Protestant people, diplomatic relations with the see of Rome. The whole display at Constantinople — which excited some bitter animadversions on the part of the orthodox or old-school Mussulmans — was quite consonant with the policy of Reschid Pasha, the Grand Vizier, and his latitudinarian and would-be-believed liberal government : besides being secured very prominent places in the three newspapers which are published in the French language in Turkey, and which are salaried by the Porte, the reception was pretty sure PRESENTS FROM THE POPE. 11 to make a figure in all the continental and a good many of the English newspapers : these articles would show to all Christendom that the government of Reschid Pasha was distinguished by its religious toleration.

It was a cheap way of obtaining cele brity. Yet it was not so very cheap after all ; for if the Italian colony and its sympathizers paid for the triumphal arch, and defrayed other out-of-door ex penses, the Nuncio and his somewhat numerous suite were boarded and lodged at the sole charge of the Sul tan. The whole of the Hotel Blondel was engaged for this purpose ; and there Monsignore Ferrieri, with his secretary and his under-secretaries. his maitre d'hotel, his valets, his footmen and running footmen tarried, and was well entertained for some three months. Before he left there was a very distressing vacuum in the Sultan's treasury, and many com plaints were whispered about this heavy and unne cessary expense. There was also much irreverent jesting. The Nuncio had brought from Rome, as presents from the head of the Roman Catholic church to the representative of the Caliph of the Mussulmans, some very beautiful presents — a copy, with restorations, of Trajan's Column, and other works of art.