Constantinople in 1828. A residence of sixteen months in the Turkish Capital and Provinces, with an account of the present state of the naval and military power, and of the resources of the Ottoman Empire

Front matter

CONSTANTINOPLE IN 1828. LONDON: 1B0TS0N AND PALMER, PRINTERS, SAVOY STREET, STRAND. & W M A M M © <U> B , WAY TO THE MO . ■• by $ winder ' l •■, ■ it I <7 fd'M ■ ' CONSTANTINOPLE IN 1828. A RESIDENCE OF SIXTEEN MONTHS IN THE TURKISH CAPITAL AND PROVINCES: WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE PRESENT STATE OF THE NAVAL AND MILITARY POWER, AND OF THE RESOURCES OF THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE. BY CHARLES MAC FARLANE, ESQ LONDON: SAUNDERS AND OTLEY, CONDUIT STREET. MDCCCXXIX. TO THOMAS HOLME, ESQ. THE FRIEND OF MANY YEARS, THIS VOLUME IS INSCRIBED, WITH ENDURING SENTIMENTS OF GRATITUDE AND AFFECTION, BY THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. When recording his observations on a country like Turkey, and on a people still so imperfectly known as the Turks, and when sub mitting those observations to public attention, a traveller may be exempted from the usual excuses (of modesty or affectation) deemed necessary to precede or accompany the descriptions of more familiar regions, whose inhabitants and institutions differ comparatively little from our own, and are every day brought before our eyes in the progress of public affairs, or in the familiar intercourse of society. In our own language we have one standard work on Turkey, (Thornton's,) but even that is not free from many and serious errors : the spirit of enterprise and investigation which does honour to our country, has not been idle, and through a numerous collection of Travels much valuable information is certainly scattered, though perhaps few but literary men will be at the pains of extracting and condensing it, from so many heavy volumes. A work that should unite the valuable portions of the information on the Ottoman empire, we possess in our native authors ; and that which is to be

PREFACE.

. VIII found in French, Italian, and German travellers, would be a desi deratum for the general reader, and would tend to give something like stability to the popular ideas on Turkey, which are now as vague as those connected with fairy-land. But this is not my present business. All I have aimed at in the following sketches, is to furnish a few slight materials, to add to those already in our possession. The field is acknowledged to be vast, and every man, however far he may be from possessing the elaborate accuracy of a Tournefort, the vivacity of a Clarke, or the graphic skill of a Leake, if he will but see with his own eyes, and not through the medium of books, can hardly fail (even if he but glean where others have reaped) to collect something novel and interesting which has escaped his predecessors.

It is more than probable, however, that my slight researches would have remained in the obscurity of my portfolio, or have been treasured up in my own mind with many other pleasurable recollections of travel, and would have sought no other issue than that afforded by conversation with an untra veiled friend, or com placent listener ; (for we of the itinerant genus must at least talk, and like a rough fox-hunt, half the pleasure of travelling, perhaps, consists in reflecting on the tales we shall have to tell, particularly when we extend our wanderings beyond the pale of civilization ;) but I found myself in Turkey at a remarkable and eventful epoch, which afforded me an opportunity of watching the movements of the Moslemins' minds when under the influences of calamity and ex citement, and of tracing the operations of the sultan's new system and improvements.

I was in Asia Minor at the date of the fatal conflict at Navarino — at Constantinople at the commencement of the Russian invasion ; and were it but as an abstract study of the human mind

PREFACE.

. IX in a state imperfectly civilized, and modified by a very peculiar religious code, I flatter myself that my observations on the Turks during those trying circumstances cannot be found wholly devoid of interest. Dr. Walsh, in his deservedly popular work, has given an able account of Sultan Mahmood's military reforms, which might seem to render further details unnecessary ; but it was my fortune to see the development or extension of those plans, the progress made in them since the Doctor's departure from the country, and to watch the working of the new system in the most critical moments. Thus taking up the subject where he left it, I consider a portion of my work a humble continuation of my predecessor's ; whilst some details on the civil improvements of the Ottoman government, not noticed by Dr. Walsh, may pretend to entire novelty, which succeeding travellers will in their turn enlarge upon.

The authorities from which I have drawn my connected sketch of Mahmood's life and reign, and the characters of several men who have figured on the dangerous theatre of Turkish politics, are such as I have good reasons to respect — they are persons born and bred in the country, or European residents who have passed many years of their lives in it, and have witnessed the scenes, and known (some of them intimately) the persons they described. Motives of prudence (as regards themselves and their connexions in Turkey) necessitate the suppression of many names ; but I may mention with confidence, as I do with gratitude, those of my friends Messrs. Constantine Zohrab, Edward Zohrab, R. Liston Elliot, (the oriental secretary of the late embassy,) G. Wood, (one of our drogomans,) and Donald Sandison of Constantinople ; and Messrs. Wilkinsons, Borrell, Langdon, the b

PREFACE.

. X late James Sandison, Cunningham, and Jasigi of Smyrna. From these gentlemen I obtained various and interesting information, but it is to the first of them, (Mr. Constantine Zohrab,) that I am most deeply indebted. Of Armenian descent, he was born at Constan tinople ; the Turkish, from the disuse the idiom of his ancestors has fallen into, may be considered as his mother tongue, and perhaps, to no Osmanli of Stambool is it more familiar. His father held a diplomatic situation in the Turkish capital, and from his childhood he has been in habits of familiarity or of intercourse with Turks of all classes. Mr. Thornton, the author of " The present State of Turkey," married Mr. C. Z.'s sister, and it is not depreciating the merits of the Englishman to suppose that he owed a portion of his information to his Levantine brother-in-law, who was so well calculated to furnish particulars concerning the extraordinary people among whom his life has passed.

Mr. C. Zohrab has been, moreover, a traveller ; he has visited England, (several times,) France, Russia, and most of the countries ofthe continent; and this, with his constant intercourse with Englishmen, arising in part from his family con nexions, and in part from his partnership as a merchant with Mr. Cartwright, (now our consul-general at Constantinople,) whilst it has emancipated him from the narrowness of mind incident to Levan tines, and more especially to those of Pera, has enabled him also to draw comparisons, and to feel what is interesting and what otherwise to European research. The latter quality is most valuable, for in consulting natives of the country, the misfortune is, that they are almost sure to suppress as trite and trivial the very things that are most characteristic and amusing, if not the most important. My hearty old friend has not the least pretension in the world to

PREFACE.

. XI literature or philosophy, (though he has a fund of information, the fruit of personal experience, and a rough-coated, good wearing sort of philosophy of his own,) but he is fond of talking of what he has seen, in the true spirit of a traveller, and one who has lived in the midst of " moving accidents ;" and I always found his accounts deli ciously quaint, bold, and animated. It used to be refreshing to me when oppressed by the ennui and stupidity of Pera, to get closeted for a whole long evening with Zohrab and our pipes, and to talk of Turkey, the Black Sea, England, and the mountains of Scotland. I could fill volumes with my friend's tales and odd remarks ; — but of this enough. It will be seen that the disturbed state of public affairs, and bad health, prevented me from extending my excursions as I had proposed, but if my range of travel was not a wide one, I at least saw what I visited coolly and deliberately, and in this I differ from the genera lity of tourists, who pass so hurriedly from place to place, that they have no time for mature examination, and the result is a succession of pictures, weak, indistinct, and confused.

The rather singular circumstance of there being only three Englishmen resident at Con stantinople during my stay, in depriving me of the pleasure of the society of my countrymen, threw me on what resources I could find among the natives of the place. The absence of all amusements necessitated application, and many solitary hours were occupied by noting on paper what I had heard in conversation, and seen in the day's excursion. In making out my own cause, I have a right to assume my ad vantages ; whatever may be the value of my observations, they are the latest made in Turkey, (that are likely to meet the public eye,)

PREFACE.

. I believe, by two or three years ; and they will assist an estimation of the real state ofthe Ottoman empire, as I left it, in October 1828. I cannot soothe myself with the belief that the personal circum stances of an author can have, or even ought to have, anything to do with the success of his book, or the decision of his readers ; but the fact that the following volume has been written under the un favourable influences of almost uninterrupted ill health, may soften the severity of criticism, and account for my omitting many interesting details. The countenance of a public, whom it is customary to call in telligent and kind, (though the prevalence of the former quality may be obnoxious to the latter,) and a return of better health, may em bolden me again to call attention to the fruits of my wanderings ; in the meantime, with the ordinary mixture of hope and fear, I submit the present volume to the dread fiat, reserving to myself the good old Italian consolation, that if it utterly fail and die, it will only go nel numero de' piu. London, June \0th, 1829. Page. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Approach from Smyrna to the Archipelago — Scio and Ipsara — Present state of Ipsara — Story of Canaris, the Ipsariot Captain — Gulph of Smyrna — View of Smyrna and its Neighbourhood — First impression of the Town and Inhabitants — Beauty of Smyrna Ladies — Their general use of Cosmetics — The English Burying Ground and Hospital — Les Jardins, Stagnant Ditches, Mal-aria — Fevers, and general Insalubrity of Smyrna — Curious Order for carrying Lanterns in the Street by Night — Anecdote . . 1

Chapter II

Tranquillity of Smyrna — Character of the Pasha — Historical Sketch of the Greek Massacres — Execution of Italian Sailors by the Turkish Government — Charity of the English Residents to the suffering Greeks — Anecdote of M. David, the French Consul — Easy suppression of the Jannissaries at Smyrna . . . . . 13

Chapter III

New Troops — Bazaars of Smyrna — Soldiers Exercising — Bad Barracks — Extreme Civility of the Turks — Large new Barracks erecting for the regular Troops — Want of instructed Non-commissioned Officers and Subalterns — Uniform of the new Troops — Incorrect idea as to the Number of European Officers in Sultan Mahmood's service — Turkish Officers formed under Sultan Selim — Field-days at Smyrna — Turkish Music — New System of Tactics criticised by an old Turk — General ugliness of the Tacticoes • CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter IV

Page. Commerce of Smyrna— Imports and Exports— Opium— Large quantities purchased by the Americans— Curious Turkish Laws respecting Contracts and Payments of Debts— European or Consular Courts of Law— The Greek, Armenian, and Turkish Traders— Story of a Jew at Smyrna— English, French, and other commercial Establishments— Enmity of the Imperialists, or Austrians, to the Greeks— English Levant Company . . 32

Chapter V

Society of Smyrna among the Franks — Curious Customs — Want of Intellectual Cultivation — The Frank Ladies — General mild Character of the Levantines — Morals and Religion — The Abbe Janson at Smyrna — Low Order of Franks — Spaniards, Provencals, Italians, &c. — The Turks — Katib-Oglu and Suleiman Aga — The Greeks of Smyrna — State of Education among the Greeks — The Armenians of Smyrna — Their differences in Religion —The Jews . . . • • • -41

Chapter VI

Villages near Smyrna — Party-divisions among the Smyrniotes — Scene at Boodja — Attack of the Samiotes — Fig Trade at Smyrna — Ball given by Lord Prudhoe — Departure for Chesme — Curious Annoyance ... ...... 61

Chapter VII

Arrival at Chesme — Raisin Trade of that Place — Description of the Town — Greek Church and Greeks of Chesme — Don Giovanni, the Sciote — Combat in the Straits of Scio, between a Greek Mistico and two Turkish Saccolevas — Body of the Greek Captain — Liberation of a Sciote Slave — The beautiful Wife of Chesme — The Muezzin and the Ezann, or nail to Prayers from the Minarets — Turkish Ablutions, &c. . 69

Chapter VIII

Scio — Reception by the Turks — The Consul — Turkish Industry — The Ruins of she Town — The Greek College — Distinguished Professors — Effects of even partial Education on the Greeks — Condition of the Greeks — Anecdotes — Former state of Scio contrasted with the present — Levant Vice-Consuls — Greek Captain and Ship — The Pasha — The Castle — The Country — Consul's Casino — The School of Homer. . . . .79 CONTENTS. Page,

Chapter IX

Chesme — Departure of the Jasper — Plan of a Journey frustrated — Alarms — March of Tacticoes — The Scio Flotilla — Scenes — A Tatar — Turks' Idea of Lord Cochrane — Country about Chesme — Habits and Professions of the Turks — Their extraordinary Honesty — Villages in the neighbourhood of Chesme — The Panagea — Beauty of the Women — Arga Paraskevis Allachchitta — Its Ports — The Samiotes — Agha of Allachchitta, and a Greek Mason — Beauty and Costume of my Hostess — Vice of Drinking among the Greeks of Asia Minor — Extraordinary Goats — Jackals . . . . .96

Chapter X

Departure from Chesme— My Turkish Guard — Mineral Waters— Erythræ— View from its Acropolis — Adventures on the Road — Turkish Village of Seradem — Night spent in the house of aTurk — His Wife, &c. — Musical Voices of the Turkish Women— Journey from Seradem to Vourla — Clazomene — Cavalcade going to a Turkish Marriage — Almas, or Dancing Girls — Vourla — From Vourla to Smyrna . . . .106

Chapter XI

News of the Battle of Navarino at Smyrna — Alarm produced thereby— Tranquillity of the Turks Russian Pilgrims at Smyrna — Feelings of the Greeks — Anecdotes of the Battle of Navarino — Hadji-Bey, the chief of the Turkish Police — The English and French Ambassadors at Vourla— The Smyrna Newspaper — General Church — Colonel Fabvier — Parties and Gaieties at Smyrna, &c. — Good Provisions— Wild Swans, &c. . . -123

Chapter XII

Journey from Smyrna to Pergamus— Mode of Travelling— Menimenn— The Hermus— Storks — Ramazann, or Turkish Fast— Night past in a Turkish Coffee-house at Menimenn- Guzel-Hissar— Tragical Story— Turkish Guards— Plain of the Caicus— Turkish Dandy of Constantinople— Passage of the Caicus— Pergamus— The Agha— An Italian Quack- Doctor— The celebrated Pergamene Vase— The Tumuli, &c— Gay Nights of the Ramazann— Scene at the Agha's— Carasman-Oglu— Greek Society of Pergamus— The Storks on the Ruins of Agios Theologos, &c. . . ■ ■ .'• • CONTENTS. XVI Page

Chapter XIII

Departure from Pergamus— Som a — Turkish School — Turkish Jews— Scenery— Fair at Kirkagatch — Greek College — Ay akeui — Female Captive — Magnesia — Turkish Khans— Camels —Turkish Tale-Tellers — Mosques — Turkish College — Medical Pretenders — Grotesque Exhibitions — Coursing in Turkey — Turkish Mansion — Population of Magnesia — Religious Enthusiam — Mosques of Magnesia ...... 169

Chapter XIV

Journey from Magnesia to Sai des — Road at the" foot of Mount Sipylus — Colossal Statue of Cybele — Grand Eastern termination of Mount Sipylus — Plain and Rivers near Casabar — Arrival and Lodging at Casabar — Curious Supper — A Slave — Fire at the Khan — Plain of the Hermus — Turks Coursing — Tumuli and Villages near the Road — March of a Tribe of Turcomans — Ruins of the ancient City of Sardes — Accosted by two Dervishes — The Temple of Cybele — The Acropolis — Alarming Incident — View from the Acropolis — Land Tortoise — Homeric Supper — Night spent in a Tent with the Turcomans. . 198

Chapter XV

Excursion from Sardes to the Gygean Lake and the Lydian Tumuli — Fording of the Hermus — Long flat Mound — The Lake — The Tomb of King Alyattes, &c. — Herodotus and the Lydian Ladies, &c. — Journey from the Lake back to the Town of Casabar — Incidents at the Khan and Bazaars of Casabar — Drunken Fray of some Turks — Another Dervish — Ride from Casabar to the Vale of Nymphi — A murdered Turk in a Ditch — Beauty of the Vale of Nymphi — Land Tortoises — The Agha — Depredations of the Samiotes — Town of Nymphi — Dispute with the Suridji — Greek Hospitality — A Fountain — Colossal Statue at Cara-bele — Turkish Sepulture — Black Turbans worn by the Greeks of Asia Minor — Ideas of their uumerical superiority over the Nations of Europe entertained by the Turks — Fruit Trees at Nymphi — Journey from Nymphi to Smyrna — Narlikeni — Camel Fight — Meles — Smyrna ...... 220

Chapter XVI

Departure from Smyrna to Constantinople — Turkish Governor of the Sangiac Castle Island of Lesbos, or Mitylene — Ruins of Assos — Cape Baba, and the Troad — Island of Tenedos — Visit to the Bim-bashi — View at Sunset — Night Scene on the coast of Troy — Turkish Encampment — Passage of the Dardanelles — Gallipoli— An Opium-eater English Steam-boat — Shores of the Sea of Marmora — Arrival at Constantinople Melancholy appearance of Pera and Galata — Tranquillity — Promenades of Pera — The Grand Signior going to Mosque — The Romantic Suburb of Eyoob — Kiat-hane — Catholic Armenians — Turkish Frolics — Ladies, &c. . . . . • . . CONTENTS. XVII

Chapter XVII

Page Landing at Constantinople — Depopulated aspect of Galata and Pera — Armenian Catholics exiled — Their houses sold — Appearance of the Rayahs and Franks — Promenade of the Grand Champ des Morts above Pera — Friday, the Grand Signior going to Mosque— Subjects allowed to present Petitions — Fine approach of the Sultan from Beshik-tash Serai to Eyoob by Water — Sultan's change of Costume — His person and appearance — Troops, or the Tacticoes — The Band of the Imperial Guard playing Rossini's music . . 247

Chapter XVIII

Netherland Ambassador — Achmet-Papooshji — Low spirits of the Turks — March of Troops for the Russian Campaign — Sultan Mahmood — Curious Anecdotes — The Basis of Victory ; a Turkish Treatise — Greek Bastinadoed — Turkish Fanaticism — Melancholy Aspect of the Interior of Constantinople — Views — Suppression of Coffee-houses — Story-Tellers, &c. . 260

Chapter XIX

State of the Public Mind at Constantinople on the commencement of the Russian Campaign — Letters of the Porte inviting the Ambassadors of England and France to return — Deposition of the Sheik-Islam or Mufti — Prisoners of War, and Ears — The Hatti-Sheriff— Greeks ordered to pray for the success of the Sultan — -Greeks ordered to suppress their favourite Christian Name of Constantine— Solitary ride in the wild, uncultivated Neighbourhood of Constantinople — Ennui of Pera, with a glimpse of its Society — Sultan Mahmood's fine new Barracks at Daut-Pasha, &c. — Superior new Barracks at Scutari, &c. — Barracks at Levend-Chifflick — The Seymens and Janissaries — The Oulemas — Curious rencounter with the Sultan . ...... .277

Chapter XX

Brief Sketch of the History of the present Sultan Mahmood II — Sultans Selim and Mustapha- — Sketches of the Three Revolutions of Constantinople in 1807-8 — Character of Mustapha-Bairactar — Chelibi-Effendi — Halet-Effendi, and his Politics — Long-prepared Plans for the Suppression of the Janissaries — Abrogation of the Rights of the Ayans, &c. — Destruction of Robbers— Uninterrupted Successes of Mahmood — His Triumph over the d CONTENTS. XVIII Wahhabees— Effects of the Russian War favourable to him— Revolt of the Janissaries— Their History and Overthrow — Mahmood's Treachery— Death of Halet Effendi— His Character— New Regulations— Rights of Property— Reforms in Courts of Justice- Armenian Intrigues— Privileges of the Caliphs and Oulemas— Reigning Dynasty— Mahmood's Domestic Character. ......

Chapter XXI

Page Sultan's New Troops— The Imperial Guard— A Turkish idea of Dress— Exercising, &c. — Number of regular Troops in the Turkish Empire at the beginning of the Campaign of 1828— Russian Policy — The New Bands — Effect of hearing an old English air played by the band of the Sultan's Guards — Thoughts on Music, and the Character of the Turks — Regular Cavalry ofthe Imperial Guard — Calosso, the Italian instructing Officer, and favourite of Sultan Mahmood — Anecdote of the Sultan — Uniforms, &c. &c. . - 338

Chapter XXII

A Foreign Minister's Audience of the Grand Visir — Strange Scene at the House of a Perote diplomate — Mode of proceeding to the Porte — An angry Drogoman — Sultan's Guards — Reception by the Vizir— Distribution of Pelisses, &c. — Character of Mehemet, Grand Vizir — Reflections— Baron Strogonoff the Russian Ambassador — Eve of the Courbann Bairam, &c— Sultan's magnificent Procession at the Courbann-Bairam from the Seraglio — The Seraskier Ursef-Pasha, &c. &c. . ..... 353

Chapter XXIII

Turkish Navy — Capitan Pasha at Buyukdere — Turkish Seamen — The English Steam-Boat — An imaginary Exploit — The Fortifications of the Bosphorus, from the Boghas to the Golden Horn — State of Defence of Constantinople at the time of Admiral Duckworth's Expedition — Nature ofthe Country between the Black Sea and the Forts on the Bosphorus — Anecdotes of the Capitan-Pasha, the Defender of Varna — Asiatic Cavaliers — General peaceful Conduct of the Troops on their March — Fortifications hastily thrown up in the neighbourhood of Constantinople — Departure ofthe Grand Vizir — Proceedings ofthe Caimacan — Egress of the Sultan with the Sangiac-Sheriff— Encampment of Daut-Pasha — Improvement in Martial Spirit — The Prison of the Bagnio — Russian Prisoners, &c. . CONTENTS. XIX

Chapter XXIV

Page Scenery — Views of Constantinople — The Gallery of Galata Tower — Views of Constantinople compared with those of Naples — A bright Remark — Pera Society — The Drogomanerie— Armenians — Anecdotes — The Turks of the Capital — The Greeks — Project for the improvement of the Greek People — Greek Literature, &c. — Illness and private Affairs — Climate of Constantinople — A Persian Gentleman — Departure from Constantinople, and return to England .......... PLATES. Sultan Mahmood on his way to the Mosque . to face the Title. Costume of the new Troops to face 27 Ancient Relics 1 59 View of Constantinople from the Hills behind Scutari . 247 The Sultan in his Barge TRAVELS, &;c. 8$c.

Chapter I

Approach to Smyrna from the Archipelago — Scio and Ipsara— Present state of Ipsara — Story of Canaris, the Ipsariot Captain — Gulph of Smyrna — View of Smyrna and its Neighbourhood — First impression of the Town and Inhabitants — Beauty of Smyrna Ladies — Their general use of Cosmetics — The English Burying Ground and Hospital — Les Jardins, Stagnant Ditches, Malaria — Fevers, and general Insalubrity of Smyrna — Curious Order for carrying Lanterns in the Streets by night — Anecdote. It was on a beautiful evening, about the middle of August, 1827, that I found myself, after a long struggle with calms, and the baffling Etesian, or annual northern wind, (which eighteen days before had driven us back from the Doro passage to the island of Milo,) slowly sailing between Scio and Ipsara, and close to the latter island.

Scio, seen in this direction, presents nothing to justify her claim to the title ofthe "Flower of the Levant/' Lofty mountains descending precipi tously to the sea, with scarce a span between their feet and the water's edge, black rocks and volcano-like peaks, broad masses of burnt, scoria-like matter, intermixed with thick patches of underwood and shrubs, silence and desolate ness — such are the features of this profile. And it is on the other side of the island which faces the coast of Asia Minor, and looks towards Erythræ, Teos, and Ephesus, that the beauty and cultivation of Scio are to be sought for. Ipsara, like all the other small islands of Greece, (I do not remember a single exception among the Cyclades and Sporades,) is a dark, naked, scorched mass, not even pretty or picturesque in its outline.

The neat white town, B SCIO AND IPSARA. 2 now in ruins, and totally deserted, shone forth sweetly and reproachingly as we passed, recalling scenes of horror and blood that made me shudder. Being built of fine stone and marble, like its neighbour of Scio, at the time of its taking (1824) it resisted the savage efforts of the Turks to destroy it in toto. A few of the meaner houses alone could be easily levelled with the earth, the rest were merely gutted ; their fine outer walls, deprived of roofs, doors, and windows, remain, and look perhaps more melancholy than those that are laid in the dust— as the skeleton on the heath, through which the wind whistles, and the rain patters, is a sadder object than the unrecognizable remnants of mortality mouldering in the church-yard. There was not a hu man being — not a dog, within that (but lately) busy and prosperous town.

A seaman on board showed me, beyond a white stone chapel, a steep cliff, whence many Ipsariote women, pursued by the Turks, threw themselves into the sea, with their children in their arms. I saw the remains of the little jet which the enterprising islanders had constructed to defend the small port be low the town from the southerly gales, and which the Turks had knocked to pieces. As the sun set, innumerable swarms of sea-fowl boomed between us and the island, uttering harsh, shrill cries, the only sounds that broke the sepulchral silence, except indeed the scarcely audible striscia of our vessel passing through the smooth waters. It has been my fate, during my voyages in the Levant, to be becalmed three several times off this unfortunate island, and neither time was it possible to defend myself from the deep, mournful impression, its sight and recalled destruction suggest.

The last time (in December 1828) I found it as silent and deserted as ever. The remnant of its population that had escaped slaughter, and gained the shores of continental Greece, had long been driven from their new settlement at the Piræus, but were too few and too poor to venture returning to their native island. The tragedy of the fall of Ipsara is but too well known, and were it not so, I should shrink from the detail of its horrors ; but there is one circumstance connected with it, which I have never seen alluded to, and which I will here relate, injustice to her noblest son, the purest patriot that the Greek revolution has produced, premising my statement with the assurance that it rests on indubitable authority. When the island was menaced with the Turkish attack, a council of the primates was convened, to decide on the measures to be adopted for defence.

The majority at once resolved, that it FALL OF IPSARA. would be madness to attempt, with their light, merchant brigs, to arrest the course of a numerous fleet, composed of strong and lofty men-of-war, and that they had sufficiently provided for the defence of the island, by garrisoning it with six hundred Albanians, and planting slight batteries above the points of debarkation. The good Canaris, who was present, trembled at this decision, and conquering his diffidence, and a natural difficulty he had in expressing himself before an assembly, rose and opposed it with all his might. He referred, modestly, to what he had done against the Turks with the same small craft that were now contemned ; he asked if the Turks could be supposed to have improved as sailors ? whether they were not as blind and inexpert as ever?

He spoke ofthe changes and chances of wind and weather, which are always favourable to the skilful party ; he begged, he implored his country men, to put their vessels to sea, converting two, three, or even four into fire-ships. But he spoke to men blinded by immediate and private interests and prejudices, and who were resolute to their own ruin. The fact was, most of the ships had been already drawn up in the two small ports of the island, and their guns removed to furnish the inefficient land-batteries. The mino rity that voted with Canaris, convinced by the arguments, or overawed by the far superior number of their opponents, slunk from his side ; and when he rose again with tears of grief and rage in his eyes, and poured tardy but bitter invectives on the leaders of the land-party, reproaching them with the folly of relying on mercenaries, whose faith was to be bought and sold, and threatened them with the dreadful fate that befell the neighbouring island of Scio, two years before, he was tumultuously silenced, thrust out of the council, thrown down, aud trampled beneath the feet of his countrymen.