Two Years in Peru, with exploration of its antiquities ... With map by D. Barrera; and ... illustrations

Front matter

TWO YEAES IN PEEU LONDON : OILEEET AND EIVINGTON, PEINTEKS, ST. JOnN'S SQTJAEE. Frontispiece. TWO YEARS IN PERU, WITH EXPLORATION OF ITS ANTIQUITIES. BY THOMAS J. HUTCHINSON, F.R.G.S., F.R.S.L., M.A.I. VICE-PRESIDENT d'hONNEUB DE 1,'lNSTITDT d'aFRIQUE, PARIS; FOREIGN ASSOCIATE OF THE PALEONTOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF BUENOS AYEES ; ONE OF THE ORGANIZATION MEMBERS OF THE SOCIETY OF FINE AETS IN PEEU ; AUTHOB OF " ISIPRESSIOMS OP WESTERN AFBICA," '"THE PABANA AMD SOUTH AMERICAN EE COLLECTIONS," &C.t &C, &C. WITH MAP BY DANIEL BARRERA, AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. ILonBon : SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, LOW, & SEARLE, CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET. 1873. (All rights reserved.) THE AS TO LUS EXCELLENCY SENOR DON MANUEL PARDO, PRESIDENT OF THE REPUBLIC OF PERU, ADTOCATE OP PROGRESS, — SCIENTIFIC, INDUSTRIAL, AND COMMERCIAL, WELL AS THE INAUGURATOR OF A NEW EUA IN THE GOVERNMENT OF HIS COUNTRY, THESE PAGES ARE RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED, BY niS OBEDIENT, HUMBLE SERVANT, THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. So many works have been written and published about Peru — from the MSS. of the lawyer Polo de Ondegardo, a.d. 1550, and the fabulous trum peting in the Commentaries of Garcilasso Inca de la Vega, a.d. 1609, down to the "goody-goody" pages of Dr. Baxley, in 1865 — that another may be considered a superfluity. But Peru has still, within her territory, a mine of archæological lore, as inexhaustible as her treasures of silver and gold. Every one, there fore, who can add his share to the general stock, helps, as Mr. Gladstone happily expresses it, " to piece together, as children do with a pattern map, the fragmentary annals of the past," and needs no excuse for presenting his mite to the public.

PREFACE.

. Such an immense amount of error, and ex aggeration has been pressed into nearly every volume on Peru which I have read, that I find it difficult to guess, where imagination ends, and reality begins. The whole aim and end of the early Spanish writers seem to have been to puff: the Incas as so many " inimitable Crichtons " — to represent them as grand, and perfect in everything — in the discipline of their government, their laws, hospitality, arts, and unlimited treasures of gold, as well as silver. I do not insinuate they did this to attribute more glory to the few hundred soldiers under Pizarro, who subdued the Inca empire. But in doing it, they tried to wipe out all knowledge of the tribes, who occupied Peru previous to the Inca period. So that it is chiefly from what we see of their architecture, and their fine arts, that we have any knowledge of these prehistoric people, - nearly all of whose works are erroneously credited to the Incas.

All these golden treasures from Chan-Chan, wrought by the Chimoos ; the exquisitely dyed cloth from the burying-ground at Huacho ; the great forts erected behind the modern Trujillo, as well as those at Chatuna, near San Jose, — at Paramunca, — in the

PREFACE.

. IX Huatica valley, within a few miles of Lima, — at Pacha-Camac, Canete, and several other places — are set down by every one to the credit of the Incas. Whilst the latter had no more to do with them, except in hastening their destruction, than any of my readers ha's had to do with the build ing of ancient and historic Troy. It may be scarcely necessary for me to state that, when I first went to Peru in April, 1871, I was in the Inca groove, like most people who take an interest in Peruvian literature. But as soon as I examined, — inquired, — observed, — by travelling along the coast from Arica to San Jose — a sea board of beyond a thousand and ten miles — interior farther than Arequipa, — to lea, — through the Jejetepeque valley, — and up to Machucana, I felt convinced that the relics of art and architecture, between the first line of Cordilleras and the Pacific, belong to a time far and away before that of the Incas.

Moreover, there appears to me no evidence of the Incas having ever done anything in the parts just named, but to destroy and blot out. The reputed Temples of the Sun, behind Trujillo and at Pacha-Camac — both visited by me — -I believe to be mythical as to accredited

PREFACE.

. X character ; and the fortress at Paramunca (in the absence of further proof than the ipse dixit of Gar cilasso de la Vega, or Dr. Mariano Edward Rivero) I cannot consider as ever having been built to celebrate the Inca's victory over the King of the Chi moos, but to have been erected and garrisoned by the Chimoos themselves. An accurate exa mination of the large forts, as well as the colossal huacas — rivals with the pyramids of Egypt — in the neighbourhood of Lima, confirms me more and more in these points of faith. But every reader will, of course, claim the privilege to judge for himself, from the facts that I place before him. I therefore confine myself, as much as possible, in the following pages to what came under my own personal observation ; — rigidly avoiding that ten dency to gasconade, and magnify, which the proximity of the towering Andes seems to com municate, by endemic sympathy, to all those who come within the influence of their shadows.

For the indefatigable aid, and assistance, in my explorations, rendered by my young friend Mr. J. B. Steer, who, as a naturalist, was travelling for the University of Michigan — and a proud Alma Mater

PREFACE.

. XI it should be too if it have many sons such as he ! — I cannot find words to express my thanks. He accompanied me through the Huatica valley, as well as amongst the ruins about Chosica, and at Pacha-Camac, — doing such work with the pick axe and spade as only a man of iron constitution, and with sympathies in the task, could do. To Doctor Don Antonio Raimondi, of Lima — one of the most eminent scientists in Peru — I am deeply indebted, for the loan of numerous works of reference, and objects of Art from the Museum of the Facultad de Medicina, as from his own private collection. For a like obligation, I return my thanks to Senor Don Miceno Espantoso, one of the directors of the National Bank of Peru. The excellent photographs, taken especially for this work, by Mr. V. L. Richardson, of Lima, will speak for themselves.

The same may bo said of the pencil sketches, — chiefly of ruins in the Huatica valley, — by a young artist, native of Bolivia, Senor Don Jose Maria Zaballa. And lastly, the etchings of Pacha-Camac, by Mr. John Schumaker, of Valparaiso, must not be forgotten.

PREFACE.

. XII There are two coincidences in this work on which I desire to remark here. The first refers to the fact of having introduced amongst the chapters about Callao, considerable extracts of my reports on its trade — that for 1870-71, as well as that for 1872 — although these were published amongst the Commercial Reports from her Majesty's Consuls, received at the Foreign Office, and presented by command of the Queen to both Houses of Parlia ment. I have made this transfer as well, — because they are the first Consular Reports on the subject of trade in Callao, that were published up to the time of their appearance in the respective dates named, — as that I hope to introduce the features of Peruvian commerce to a wider circle of readers, than is generally supposed to be conversant with the literature of Blue Books.

By the second I have to explain, that some articles from my pen, inserted in the Callao and Lima Gazette, as well as in the South Pacific Times, during my residence in Peru, have been introduced into the parts of this work, to which they corre spond. Of these newspapers — so useful to the English-speaking community, as to the interests of Peru (at home and abroad) —the latter-named

PREFACE.

. XIII supplanted the former ; and both were established by Mr. Lawton during my residence in Callao. But all the extracts taken therefrom (except where quoted in the usual orthodox mode, with inverted commas), are limited to my own con tributions, and in every article, where needed, are abridged or corrected. To conclude. Peru, under the administration of her citizen President, has entered on a new era. The coming to power of a man so enlightened as Don Manuel Pardo, and the annihilation of the military despotism, which has hitherto kept the Republic in the background, are hopeful presages. With these we have the daily-increasing com mercial spirit, chiefly called into life by the Pacific Steam Navigation Company's able, and in defatigable manager, Mr. George Petrie. Through the inexhaustible energy and enterprise of Mr. Henry Meiggs, Peru has a greater length of railways than any other South American Republic, or even than Brazil.

She has reformed municipalities, — made grants for bringing out schoolmasters from Europe, — is putting forth educational and scientific schemes, — proposes out lay for immigration purposes, — and through Con-

PREFACE.

. gress, as well as her Executive, is presenting to the world the tout-ensemble of a regenerating progress, — needing only the security of permanent tranquillity to make her hold a primary position amongst the nations of the world. London, November 1st, 1873. CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

Chapter I

Outward from Liverpool. — Unusual smoothness of the Irish Channel and Bay of Biscay. — To Bordeaux, Lisbon, and Bio de Janeiro. — Passing the Bio de la Plata, and entering the Straits of Magellan. — La Colonia. — Patagonians and Fuegians. — Peculiarities of scenery passed through. — Colonia or Punta Arenas. — Murder of British sailors. — Missionary enterprise at Tierra del Euego. — Admiral Fitzroy's description of the natives. — Gold at Colonia. — Civilization of boots. — Beauty of mountains and of glaciers. — Ancient explorers. — Loss of prehistoric Indian titles. — Reductio ad absurdum of Darby Cove 1—15

Chapter II

Misnomer of Pacific. — Geographical extent of Chile. — Chiloe and adjoining Archipelagos. — Valdivia and Lord Cochrane's bravery. — Coronel and the coal mines at Lota. — The Arauco country and the Araucanian tribes. — Arrival at Valparaiso. — Its bombardment by the Spanish squadron in 1866. — Earthquakes in Valparaiso. — Cleanliness of the city. — The Resguardo, Exchange, and tramway. — Foreigners' club-house and market-place. — Drive to the railway station. — The Estero de las Delicias.- — Excellent arrangements of this station. — Scarcity of water in Valparaiso. — "Waterworks established by Mr. "William "Wheelwright. — Railway traffic trebled since 1855. — First triumph of Mr. Henry Meiggs . 16 — CONTENTS. XVI

Chapter III

Trip to Santiago, the capital. — Stations of Quilpua, Limache, and Quillota. — Ormskirk and Shrewsbury reminiscences. — The Maqui bridge and tunnel. — Entrance to Santiago. — The Southern railroad and baths. — Poplar-trees everywhere. — Square squares. — The Alemada. — Zoological Gardens. — The Museum and its fluffy birds. — Cathedral and arcades. — Earning of Jesuits' Church in 1863. — Monument. — Burning of theatre. — Atrocious insult to Charles Dickens. — Foundation of Santiago in a.d. 1541. — The Mapocho Indians destroy it. — What they left behind. — Connexion of Earl Dundonald with Chile. — Bravery of his eldest son. — Attempted assassination of Lady Cochrane. — Seizing treasure of San Martin's. — Reinstatement in his former honours by Queen Victoria . . . . . . . . 32 — 45

Chapter IV

From Valparaiso northwards. — Chilian labourers. — Approaching Peruvian boundary-line. — Mr. Squier's description of its peculiar physique. — Explanation by Senor Raimondy of rain never falling on the coast of Peru. — Trade of Iquique. — Exports therefrom. — Tarapaca province. — Railways from Iquique to Noria. — New export law of saltpetre. — Arica and its last earthquake. — Consul Nugent's account of the catastrophe. — Wave fifty feet high. — Corresponding earthquakes elsewhere. — The dead forced out of their graves. — Ships driven on shore. — Relief to the sufferers. — Tacna railway. — Ilo and Moquegua railway ...... 46 — 67

Chapter V

Towards Cuzco. — Grandeur of its edifices. — General Miller's description. — Stories about gold. — Ancient roads mentioned by Prescott. — Modern railroads made by Mr. Henry Meiggs. — From Mollendo to Arequipa. — Lively night at hotel in Mollendo. — Concession for the Arequipa railroad. — From Ensenada onwards.— Steep .gorge. — Pampa of Cachenda.— CONTENTS. XVII Large amount of rolling-stock. — Valley of Tambo and station. — Quebrada of Cahuntula. — Serpentine curves. — Station of Vitor. — La Joya. — Sand-heaps. — Huasamayo. — Onishuarani. — Watering-place of Arequipa. — Tingo. — Sachaka . 68 — 85

Chapter VI

At Arequipa. — Excellence of its station arrangements. — Hotels of Arequipa. — The Soroche and Surumpi. — Rarefied atmosphere. — Earthquaky look of Arequipa. — Appearance of cathedral. — Number of monasteries. — Heavy rains here. — The Misti volcano. — The Sillar trachyte. — Celebrated men of Arequipa. — Derivation of its name. — Story of first settlement. — Railways of Mr. Henry Meiggs. — Reflections on their success. — From Arequipa on the road to Puno. — Mineral wells of Yura. — Station of Quisco or Aguas Calientes. — Hospital here. — Magnetic stone at Caechipestane .... 86 — 100

Chapter VII

leturn from Arequipa. — From Mollendo northwards. — Islay. — Exports thence. — TheChJiichapeople.- — The Chineha Islands. — Idols found here at depths of thirty-five feet, and sixty-two feet under guano. — Guesses at the antiquity of these. — Eoyal emblems from under the guano. — First discovery of guano on the Chineha Islands. — Pisco railway. — Pisco town. — Monotony of railroad to lea. — Peruvian sandwdeh. — Burial-mounds at lea. — Urn with disarticulated skeleton. — Foundation of lea. — Aqueducts of the aborigines, falsely attributed to Incas. Garcilasso de la Vega. — First coast invasion of the Incas made in the valley of lea. — Silver work of art from lea 101 — 127

Chapter VIII

The valley of Chincha.— Tambo de Mora and Canete.— Cerro de Azul roadstead. — Chuquimancu sugar estates in Caenet valley.' — Necessity of exploring the ruins about here. — Creation of Society of Fine Arts by President Pardo. — Exhuming VOL. I. a CONTENTS. XVIII skulls from the Cerro del Oro.— Particulars of things got out. — Bosina, or shell-trumpet.— Ride through the Canete valley. —Chinese labourers here.— Their joss-houses.— Prescott's ophuoiToi Garcilasso""3eTa Vega.— Progress of the invading Incas through Cafiete valley. — Huarcu and Eunahuanac. — Eeputed Inca fortress at Hervay. — Olives from Seville. — Vessels of Pacific Steamship Company. — Limits of Callao jurisdiction ....... v128 — 146 >

Chapter IX

Inca progress to Pacha-Camac and Rimac. — Account of it by Garcilasso de la Vega. — Cuys Mancu, or Hatun Apu, Lord of Pacha-Camac, and valleys adjacent. — Temples of Pacha- Camac, and Delphic Ofacle of the Rimac. — Message sent to Cuys Mancu. — Machiavellianism of the Incas. — Craft of Cupac Yupanqui. — Treaty of the Incas with the Yunca chiefs. — Conditions of same. — Unconditional surrender of Cuys Mancu. — The Devil coming to have a finger in the pie. — Cieza de Leon. — Author's visit to Pacha-Camac. — Cyclopean work. — Mr. Steer's tracking. — Evidence of niches for idols, as of sacrificial fires, in supposed Temple of the Sun. — Skulls with sutures in the frontal bones. — General conglomeration of ruins. — Unsatisfactory results. — What Stevenson says of Pacha-Camac. — Wonderful messengers . . 147 — 176

Chapter X

Callao Bay. — Earl Dundonald and the island of San Lorenzo. — Cutting out of the "Esmeralda." — The concrete works of Mr. Hodges. — Pacific Steam Navigation Company. — First appearance of steamboat on the Pacific. — Earliest report of Pacific Steam Navigation Company in 1843. — Hardihood of directors. — Present status of Company. — Organization in Callao. — Programme of sailings. — Large trade created by it. — Additional steam lines. — Floating-dock of Callao. — Original establishment. — Utility to Pacific shipping. — Muelle y Darsena (mole and dock) : great work of Brassey and Co. — Callao CONTENTS. XIX trade for 1872. — Imports and exports. — Quano\ existing in deposits. — Amount of supply for future. — No fear of Govern ment securities. — New discoveries of nitrates and of silver mines. — Immense increase of Custom-house receipts. — Port dues .077—218

CHAPTER XL

The "Painter" at Callao. — Its different appearances. — Analysis of water during its existence. — Extent of " Painter " on the whole coast of Peru. — Author's observations of appearances of water. — Frezier's writings about Callao. — Earthquake of 1746. — Number of convents and of chapels. — Dreadful effects of earthquake. — On shore at Callao. — Lima and Callao railroad. Club at Callao. — The royal fort. — Its great size and extent. — Fight for independence. — Bombardment of Callao by Spanish fleet in 1866. — The native hospital in Callao. — Revenue of Benificencia Society. — Hospital tax on shipping. — Silver in Peru. — Misfortunes of 1868. — Parish of Santa Rosa. — La Punta 219—240

Chapter XII

Hygiene of Callao. — Mr. Paz Soldan's calculations of increase of population. — Mortality at the native hospital. — Excess of deaths over births in the town. — Census of population. — ■ ~ 1 ~* ™~™ AAA „__*„ .,„„.__.. „._. __„„,„__,_■___.. Qhinese immigraticsir. — Mortality of Chinese immigrants in the~middle passage during the last decade. — Mortality of same in 1871 and 1872. — Law of Congress prohibiting Chinese immigration in 1856. — Its reauthorization by Con gress in 1861. — Particulars of contracts. — Mission of Peruvian embassy to China. — Existing convention between Peru and Portugal, touching emigration from Macao. — Coolie immigration to the West Indies. — Sir G. Young's paper on the subject. — Difference of mortality in Guiana and Callao. — Speculators in the Chinese immigration. — National Company of Navigation. — Its intended extensive monopoly. — Decree revoking the concession. — New bill for import duties. — Monopoly of nitrate of soda. — Guano from Mejillones. — General resume of railroads in Peru. — Drainage of Callio by Mr. Clarke f 241— 269 a XX CONTENTS.

Chapter XIII

From Callao through the Huatica valley.— Bella Vista.— Viceroy's palace. — Custom-house stores. — Spasmodic efforts to make suburban residences. — Ruins of old city of Huatica. — Ruins of castles, temples, and fortresses. — Senor Cerdoni's pamphlet about water-supply. — Tracking the Pando burial-mound (huaca) by Mr. Steer. — Measurements converging to multiples of 12. — Extraordinary dimensions. — Made up of small sun-dried bricks. — Masses dislodged by earthquake. — No notice of these things by Rivero. — Huaca de la Campana (Marengo or Arambolu). — Legend about this mound. — Characteristic features of architecture. — Filled up with earth. — Fortress entitled San Miguel. — Adjacent temple. — "Wedge-shaped walls. — Fortresses to protect old city and burial-ground. — Ancient temple of Delphic Oracle Rimac . 270 — 286

Chapter XIV

Fortresses near Senor Osma's quinta. — Fortress of Garmendi. — Village of Magdalena. — Ruins of temple in four groups. — All filled up with clay. — Relics of Rimac temple. — Immense extent of enclosure. — Turkey-buzzards amongst the ruins. — Country residence of Viceroy here. — Railroad from Lima to Magdalena. — Inconoclastic barbarity. — Bad roads. — Warracochee Castle. — Chacra of Conde de San Isidro. — Painting of San Isidro. — Winged Seraph at the plough. — Burial-mound of Pan de Azucar. — Partial exploration of it. — Articles found. — Senor Raimondy's opinion. — Measurement of this huaca. — Burial-mound of Juliana (Ocharan). — Enormous structure. — * Multiples of 12 repeated. — Enclosure of half a million square yards, or 1 17 acres. — Mr. Steer's calculations.— Adobes forming the mound.— Cave of hermit burned by the Inquisition in 1673.— Mira Flores.— Chorillos.— The friar's leap.— The hereditary donkeys — Central part of Chorillos . . 287—303

Chapter XV

Lima.— The "City of the Kings."— Number of authors who have described it.— Foundation by Francisco Pizarro, the conqueror. CONTENTS. XXI — Its former wealth. — Streets paved with blocks of silver. — Confounding calculations. — Knocking down of the old walls. — Boulevards made by Mr. Henry Meiggs. — Want of fire places in Peruvian houses. — Principal plaza and cathedral of Lima. — Body of Pizarro in the vaults. — Doubts of its genuine ness. — Place of assassination of Pizarro. — Palace of the Executive. — Plaza de la Independencia. — Bolivar's statue. — Chambers of senators and deputies. — House of the Inquisition. — University of San Marcos. — Foundation in a.d. 1576. — Mint in Lima. — Large number of chapels. — English kings doing duty for Incas. — Penitentiary. — Public buildings of Lima. — Its bad hygiene. — Dr. Baxley 's opinions of the immorality of Lima. — Author's contradiction of it. — Saya y Manta. — Literary ladies in Lima . . . 304 — 330

Chapter XVI

Exhibition Palace at Lima. — Inaugurated in President Balta's time of office. — Delays in opening. — Doctor Fuentes, the presiding genius. — Situation of the Palace. — Description of contents, and of adjacent grounds. — Lack of archæological ' subjects exhibited. — Mummies at Exhibition. — Magnificent painting by Peruvian artist, Monteros, of the waking of Atahualpa. — Death of the artist of yellow fever in 1868. — Luis Medina's statues of Indian man and woman. — Excellence of execution. — Mosaic tables from Ecuador. — Wonderful clock by Major Don Pedro Ruiz. — Condors in the garden. — Huacas or burial-mounds outside the walls. — Obscure antiquity side by side with modern civilization. — View of Callao from top of the Palace. — Absence of President Balta from the opening ceremony. — Political storms foreshadowed 331—343 ILLUSTRATIONS TO VOL. I. PAGE Portrait of President Pardo ....

Frontispiece Map of Peru ........ — Straits of Magellan 12 View of Crooked Eeach in passing through Straits . . 14 Valparaiso after Spanish Bombardment of 1866 . . 25 Eesguardo at the Mole, Valparaiso. . . . .27 Plaza where Statue of Earl Dundonald is erected . . 28 Macqui Bridge on Valparaiso and Santiago Eailway . 33 Outside View of Santiago City . . . . .34 Burning of Jesuit Church in Santiago .... 38 Monument of the same ....... 39 Ariea the day before Earthquake of 1868 ... 64 Ariea the day after ditto ...... 66 Barricade in Arequipa during Siege of 1867 ... 86 Arequipa after Earthquake of 1868 . . . . 90 Stone Idol from under Guano at Chineha Islands . .104 Wooden Idol from do. do. . . 105 Another of same do. do. . . 108 Regal Emblems from under Guano .... 107 Mummy from Pisco . . . . . . .-113 Silver Badge from lea . . . . . . .126 Terra-Cotta Mask from Cafiete 133 Bosina (Trumpet-shell), front view 1 34 The same, back view 135 Wooden Idol from Burial Mound at Cafiete . . .139 Prehistoric Crockery ware from ditto . . . .144 General View of Pacha-Camac 157 Ruins of reputed Temple of Sun 159 Articles excavated at Pacha-Camac . . . . .160 ILLUSTRATIONS.

XXIV PAGE View on East Side of Ruins at Pacha-Camac . . .161 Same on West Side of ditto 163 Plan of Callao Bay - • 218 Plan of Callao Town and Neighbourhood . . ' . 220 Callao before the Earthquake of 1746 . . . .227 In Front of Entrance to Royal Fortress in Callao . .233 Plan of Huatica Valley 271 Ruined Walls of Ancient Huatica City . . . .273 West View of Pando Huaca 274 East View of same .....•• 276 View of Brick-work on top of Pando Huaca . . . 279 Part of Pando Huaca disturbed by Earthquake . . 280 Ruins of Arambolu Fortress . . . . • .283 Sketch of same taken on the summit . . ... 284 Ruins of small Fort close to San Miguel . . .284 Ruins of Temple in the vicinity of San Miguel . . 285 Ruins of Fortress adjacent to Senor Osma's Quinta . . 288 Ruins of another of the same kind ..... 289 Part of Double Wall enclosing Temple of Rimac . . 290 Portion of Ruins of Temple of Rimac .... 292 Small Fortress to left of Rimac Temple . . . .293 Sugar-loaf Huaca at Conde de San Isidro . . .294 Burial Mound of Juliana (Ocharan). .... 296 Sketch on top of Burial Mound (do.) . . . .299 Cave of Hermit burned by Inquisition in 1673 . . 299 Malecon (or Promenade) at Chorillos .... 302 Cathedral of Lima ....... 308 Front of Pizarro's Palace . . . . . .311 Statue of Bolivar ........ 315 Bridge of Lima ........ 320 Penitentiary of Lima . . . ... . .322 Dress of Lima Ladies (Saya y Manta) .... 326 The same (Tapada) . - . . . . .327 Principal Entrance to Lima Crystal Palace . . . 332 Exhibition Palace and Grounds ..... 334 Mummies at the Exhibition .... 336 Gypsum Statue of Indian Woman 337 The same of Indian Man TWO YEAES IN PEEU.

Chapter I

Outward from Liverpool. — Unusual smoothness of the Irish Channel, and Bay of Biscay. — -To Bordeaux, Lisbon, and Rio de Janeiro.- — Passing the Rio de la Plata, and entering the Straits of Magellan. — Patagonians and Fuegians. — Peculiarities of scenery passed through. — La Colonia or Punta Arenas. — Murder of British Sailors. — Missionary enterprise at Tierra del Fuego. — Admiral Fitzroy's description of the Natives. — Gold at Colonia. — Civilization of boots. — Beauty of mountains and of glaciers. — Ancient Explorers. — Loss of pre-historic Indian titles. — Meductio ad absurdum of Darby Cove. Outward bound from Liverpool on the 1st of March, 1871, in that fast and commodious vessel, the Pacific Steam Navigation Company's fine steamer " Cordillera," it was very difficult to realize, during the few early days of our voyage, that we were speeding through the generally troubled waters of the Irish Channel, and across the dread Bay of Biscay.

All my previous passages of nineteen (to and from England in relation with "Western Africa and South America) had been made in these latitudes, under the accompaniments (in a greater or less VOL. I. B [CHAP. I. 2 TWO YEARS IN PERU. degree) of equinoctial gales, head-winds, and stormy seas, with their invariable sequence to me of sea-sickness. The smooth ocean, therefore, seemed now to be quite another element. How some of the new hands doubted on the morning of the third day, when, anchor being cast for a few hours in the river Garonne, six miles below Pauillac, to communicate with Bordeaux, as they talked over Dickens's graphic account of sea sickness in his "American Notes." And the majority came to the conclusion that, if the account of Boz referred to any state of affairs in that Atlantic, of which we had had three days' trial, his description was onlyas much of a romance as any of the marvels of Baron Munch ausen, or the extra vaganzas of Lilliput.

Such a condition, they said, as was described of the " headwind," ] under which the novelist suffered, was simply a physical impossibility in the unruffled water, over which they had just passed from Liverpool. Erom the Garonne to Lisbon we touch at the Spanish port of Santander — a wild-looking region, with the hills of Bilbao to the north, and those of Asturias to the south — whilst, as if in punishment of premature presumption, the " Cordillera " had twenty-four hours of regular Atlantic acrobatting between Santander and Lisbon : so much so, in deed, that not a few of the doubters felt disposed to believe in Dickens after all. 1 "American Notes," Philadelphia Edition, p. 20. CHAP. I.] 3 TIERRA DEL FUEGO. The Pacific Company's steamers call at San tander — chiefly for the purpose of bringing out Basque, Italian, and French emigrants to the River Plate.

From Lisbon, too, they carry no small contingencies of the Latin elements in the same direction. The journey to equatorial latitudes, with its tradewinds, tornadoes, and flying fish ; its phosphorescence of the sea by night, with general monotony during the day ; the effect of the sun's great heat as well as extent of water, bounded by the bright blue sky; and the small speck of our steamer in such an immensity ; have been so often described as not to need being repeated. The magnificent bay of Rio de Janeiro, the next place of stoppage, is familiar to all travellers in the South Atlantic. Lower down, too, in the Rio de la Plata territories,2 the run of enthusiastic "gentle shepherds" and aspiring colonists has, for some years, made the Platine countries a beaten track. But when we pass the La Plata, with its broad embouchure of 300 miles across, and approach the Patagonian region, — the mysterious vicinity of Tierra del Fuego, as well as that caldron of the mariner, the terrible Cape Horn, one can scarcely help feeling that he is entering a part of the world which, to no small portion of mankind, is still a terra incognita. 2 Vide Author's two works, " Buenos Ayres," &c, and " The Parana," published by E. Stanford, 6, Charing Cross, London.

B [CHAP. I. 4 TWO YEARS IN PERU. When my colleague, Captain Burton, was at my house in Rosario, en route to Paraguay, during the year 1868, and spoke of his recent return from the West Coast of South America, he observed that " the beauty and grandeur of the Straits of Magellan were worth being shipwrecked to enjoy, if no other means of seeing them could be had recourse to." The character which all the neighbourhood bears for cold, comfortless, rugged nature, made me rather doubtful of sympathy in such an idea. But nous verrons. From Monte Video downwards, the steamer's track is out of sight of land, except of a long, low bank in the province of Buenos Ayres, about 215 miles from the mouth of the Rio de la Plata, styled Mogola Spit. In four days after our starting from the capital of the Republic of Uruguay, we arrive at the entrance to the Straits of Magellan.