Buenos Ayres and Argentine Gleanings: with extracts from a diary of Salado exploration in 1862 and 1863

Front matter

BUENOS AYEES AND AKGENTINE GLEANINGS LONDON PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. NEW-STREET SQUARE BUENOS AYRES AND ARGENTINE GLEANINGS : WITH EXTRACTS FROM A DIARY OF SALADO EXPLOEATION In 1862 and 1863. BY THOMAS J. HUTCHINSON, F.R.G.S. F.R.S.L. F.E.S. H. B. M. Consul for Rosario, Santa Fe ; Membre Titulaire de l'lnstitut d'Afrk[ue ; Honorary and Corresponding Member of the Liverpool Literary and Philosophical Society ; Author of ' Narrative of Niger, Tshadda, and Binue Exploration,' ' Impressions of Western Africa,' ' Ten Tears' Wanderings amongst the Ethiopians,' &c. LONDON: EDWARD STANFORD, 6 CHARING CROSS. 1865. [The right of translation is reserved.} TO THOMAS BAZLEY, ESQ., M.P. CHAIRMAN OF THE MANCHESTER COTTON SUPPLY ASSOCIATION. >>x< Sir, In dedicating, with your permission, the following pages to you, I do this as well because a principal part of the information contained therein was gathered during my mission through the ' Salado ' valley in search of wild cotton, as that I believe the manufacturing power which you represent, has a vital interest in the development of the Argentine Republic, as regards its Industrial Resources. I am, Sir, Your obedient humble servant, THE AUTHOR. British Consulate, Rosario, Santa Fk.

Preface

. ♦ Every author coming before the public now-a-days follows the usage of writing a preface. Mine shall be a short one. Possessing neither taste, leisure, nor opportunity for writing the history of the countries accessible by the River Plate, from its discovery by Don Juan de Solis in a.d. 1515 — through the wonderful labours of the Jesuits till their expulsion in a.d. 1767, and the con tinuous civil wars of the people to later times, I never theless hope the following pages will prove interesting. My chief object is to give a description of those parts of the Argentine Republic which I have visited, and to supply statistics as well as other details on the impor tant subjects of immigration, sheep-farming, and cotton cultivation. Some of the matter comprised in this volume has already appeared in the ' Liverpool Journal,' under the title of ' Letters from South America.' But all this has been carefully revised — much addition made to it — whilst a portion has been expunged from the present arrangement.

I feel much pleasure in bearing testimony to the un varying willingness wherewith data have been supplied to me by the officials of the Argentine Government; more particularly by General Don Antonino Taboada, of

PREFACE.

. Santiago, whose attention to my comforts when in the Salado Valley, as well as readiness to afford me infor mation, no thanks of mine can sufficiently repay. It would be an omission of duty, as well as of gratitude, were I not to acknowledge the kindness of Don Estevan Rams y Rubert, ' Impresario of the Rio Salado Navigation,' who not only, unsolicited, gave me an invi tation to accompany his exploring expedition on the banks of the Salado, but placed at my disposal every convenience to alleviate the disagreeables of travellino; across the Chaco, as well as over those parts of the pro vinces in which I had his companionship. To Mr. J. C. Tilston, whose sketches are to the life, I owe much for the studious pains he has taken in drawing them from the descriptions of my manuscript ; Mr. John Coghlan, C.E., of Buenos Ayres, hi the midst of his heavy work, lends the reader a helping hand by tracing the direction of my route on Doctor Burmeister's chart, kindly placed at my disposal by that gentleman ; whilst for the details procured by Mr. Daniel Maxwell, of Buenos Ayres, and the statistical tables translated as well as drawn out by Mr. Richard B. Benn, of Rosario, this simple statement of indebtedness is but a meagre recognition.

It would extend this preface to the length of many pages were I to enumerate the favours of all from whom I have received communications of interest ; but they will see, on perusing the work, that for facts or descriptions not gleaned by myself I have given full credit to my authorities. British Consulate, Rosario, Santa Fe. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Monte Video

The Voyage out — Magnificent Embouchure of the River Plate— Quick Sailing and comfortable Accommodation of the ' Santiago ' — Cold Weather at the "Mouth of the River — Anchoring in Monte Video Harbour — Sensations , on viewing the City— Contrast of the Wharf Fittings with those of the Docks in Liverpool-- Cars in the Fashion of Irish Turf Creels — Irregularity of Street Pavement — The Cathedral and Plaza de la Constitucion — The Ladies at "Mass and the Beau Monde in the Plaza — Drive into the Country — Omnibuses and Gauchos — Mr. M'Coll's Description of a Gaucho — Other Churches besides the Cathedral — Theatre — Hospital — Departments of the Uruguayan Republic, or Banda Oriental — Medicinal Rivers — Ships, Steamers, Diligencias, and projected Rail ways — Products at the International Exhibition of 1802 — Statistical Table of Exports — To Buenos Ayres ', page 1

Chapter II. Buenos Ayres

View of Buenos Ayres from the Roadstead— The Plaza de la Victoria, Casa de Justicia, and Cathedral — Interior of the Latter — Bishoprics of the Argentine Provinces — Foundation-stone of Buenos Ayres — The Camara or Parliament House, and its interior Arrangements — The University and its Museum — Contents of the Latter — New Market-place — Prices of Meat — The City Squares — The Bolsa — Foreigners' Club House — Casa de Comercio — British Hospital — Cementerio — Recoleta — Asilo de Mendigos — Irish Sisters of Mercy — Population Statistics of Buenos Ayres . . 10

Chapter III. Buenos Ayres

— SCHOOLS AND COLLEGES. Other Parish Chapels in Buenos Ayres— The Chapel of San Domingo, with the British Flags taken in 1808 — Chapel of San Roque— Parish Church of Barracas — San Pedro de Telmo — English Episcopalian, Scotch Presbyterian, and German Lutheran Churches — ' Sociedad de Beneticencia '— Its Foundation by President Rivadavia in 1823 — Its ' Casa de Ejercicioa ' a CONTENTS. X — Mode of Support and Government — Number of Schools and Pupils — Its special Charities after the Earthquake at Mendoza — ' Hospital General de Mu'eres' — Foundling House — 'Residencia' and ' Convalescencia ' Insti tutions — Sisters of Charity amongst the Lunatics — Connection of Govern ment Education with the" Benefleencia Society — Statistics furnished by Senor Acosta, Minister of Public Instruction — Latest Statistics of Educa tion — Free Schools — Concession of the Provincial Government for 1804 — Progressive Statistics of Education in Buenos Ayres — Report of Senor D. T. Sarmiento— Irish Convent of Sisters of Mercy — Irish College at Lobos — National College at Lobos — National College at Buenos Ayres PAGE 10

Chapter IV. Scenes At

A MATADERO. Visit to the Boca — Peculiariti es of its Appearance — Barraca s Bridge — Saladeros — Chevalier de St. Robert's Opinion about the Gauchos — Of the Operations at a Matadero — Moaning of Animals about to be killed — Gauchos always galloping — Mistaken Notion of expecting humane Sympathy in their* Work from the Slayers of Cattle — Visit to the Slaughtering Placf* at a Saladero — Peculiar Odour in the Neighbourhood — Cows and Bullocks kicking, although their Heads are off — Modus operandi of curing Beef — Cadiz Salt invariably used — Oil obtained from the Refuse — One Sight such as this enough for a Lifetime — Not agreeing with M. de Robert's Theory, nevertheless — Brutality at Saladeros in Cordova in former times ............ 27

Chapter V. Around Buenos Ayres

To Moreno by Western Railway — Unprotected State of Streets through which the first Part of Line passes — Plaza 11 de Setiembre — San Jose de Flores— Its historic Associations — Station of San Martin, near the Battle-field of Caseros — Diligencias from Moreno to Mercedes — Statistics of Western Railway Company — Examples of how it has raised the Value of Land near Moron and Moreno — San Fernando Railway — Its future Advantages to Buenos Ayres — Government Concession — A Drive to Belgrano — Lavadero del Pobre Diablo — Five Miles of Washerwomen — Palermo — Its present Condition — Railways to Boca, Cliasocomos, and Ensenada — Steamers plying on the Plata — Parana — Wool Exports from Buenos Ayres — Increase of British Trade here— Board of Trade Statistics — Table of Exports drawn up by Mr. Daniel Maxwell — Duty on Wool — Comparative Exports during 1801 and 1802 — Fluctuation in Freights . . .34

Chapter VI. Ascent Of The

PARAnX. My first Ascent of the Parana — Our Water-way in the S.S. 'Dolorcitas ' — Physical Aspect of the Country — Gorgeousness of Birds encountered in our Passage — Point Obligado — On Shore at an Estancia — Horses making- Bricks — Horses threshing Corn — A Horse churning Butter — Beggarmen on Horseback — A Dentist operating whilst on Horseback — Gallant Bearing CONTENTS. XI of the Gaucho Tribe — Peculiarities of Dress — Curious Stirrups — Component Parts of ' Recado ' — Skill and Agility — Sport of ' El Pialar ' — Games of ' El Pato ' and ' La Sortija ' — Mode of Salutation — Drinking — Bravery — Enormous Spurs seen by Mr. Darwin at Chile exceeded by those at a City on the Parana — Accredited Feats ot Gaucho Skill and Endurance — The ' Bolas ' and ' Lasso ' — Origin of the Latter as described by Mr. Prescott in his History of the Conquest of Peru — What Mr. Coghlan saw of the Chaco Indians — Hunting* Ostriches with the Bola . . . page 4(1

Chapter VII. Like In South America

Dogs of the Argentine Territory — Their Characteristics — The ' Serenes,' or Watchmen — Peculiarities of their Cries — Heat of Parana Cities — Dust-storm — The ' Tormenta ' — How the Dust covers and penetrates into everything — Pleasantness of a Dust ' Tormenta ' when one is in Bed — Its accessor}' Noises — Keeping out the Dust — Tormenta at Buenos Ayres — Ride in the Camp — Bullock Carts — Definition of them by Mr. Mansfield — Troops of Mules — The Diligencia with its Gaucho Postillions — Don Louis Sausse, the Impresario — Experiences in a Diligencia from Tucuman to Cordova — Very unlike Tom Pinch's Stage-coaching from Salisbury to London, chiefly on Account of Natural History Contingencies — The solitary Rancho audits Inhabitants — Women, Children, and Dogs — 'Yerba' and 'Mate' — Cow-skull for Chair — Paterfamilias in South America — Politeness and Hospitality — Truthfulness of Sketch — Not applicable to Gaucho Tribes, however ............ 55

Chapter VIII. San Fedro

San Pedro — Its early Foundation — Blocking up of the Deep River Channel opposite the Town by its early Inhabitants— No Relic of Jesuitical Building here— Its old Chapel and its new unfinished one — Solitary Aspect of the Town — San Tedro a healthy Position — A ' Temporal ' Storm here — Its Difference from a ' Tormenta,' and exceeding Severity — Obligado Pass across which Rosas placed the Chain — Beauty of the River — Passage from hence to San Nicolas — This Town celebrated by the Convention of 1852 — Steam Flour Mill — Arroyo del Medio — Villa Constitucion — Arrival at Rosario . . * . . . . . . . . .05

Chapter IX. Rosario

Geographical Extent of Santa F<5 Province — Its Departments— Census of Population in 1858 — Rosario and its Districts — Boundaries of Rosario Department — Original Settlement here in 1725 — Importance of its Topographical Position— 'Differential Duties' — Battles of Cepeda and Pavou — Beach at Rosario — Plaza 25 de Mayo — Church— Policia — Plaza de las Carretas — Saladeros and Mills — Carreta-racing on the B3ach — ' Inego a la Cincha' — Game of ' Suerte ' and 'Culo '—Number of Houses in Rosario — Municipality and ' Tribunal de Commercio ' — Lyceum and School of Arts — Rivers in Santa Fe Province — Port Charges in Rosario . . 09 a CONTENTS.

Chapter X. Rosario Exports And Imports

Growth of Rosario — Custom-house Receipts from 1854 to 1802— First Year's Revenue of Custom-house — Number of British Vessels at Rosario in 1859— Baron Du Graty's Statistics of the Port Shipping — Senor de Campo's Trade Statistics in 1801 — Variety of Exports from Rosario— Copper in 1855, 1857, 1802— Bullock-cart aud Mule Traffic in 1800 and 1802 — The Differential Duties— Their Establishment and Abolition — Returns from the Rosario Custom-house for 1802— Charges of Freight on Mules and Bullock-carts to the various Provinces — The Rosario and Cordova Railway — Mr. Campbell's Survey— Mr. Wheelwright's Opinions — Length of the Centro-Argentine Line— Extent of Territory to be possessed by the Company — Mr. Campbell's Calculations of its Traffic and Profit— Illustrated by the Copiapo Line— Fitness of Rosario for a Terminus — The Future connecting Link between England, New Zealand. and Australia page 77

CHAPTER XL PARANA.

Convent of San Carlos at San Lorenzo — First erected in place of San Miguel, the ancient Jesuit Monastery — Report on San Carlos by Padre Constantia — Original Grant of Land for this Convent by Don Feliz Aldao — Spaciousness of this Building — Extent of Cloisters, Library, and Garden — General San Martin's great Feat at San Lorenzo — The Monument raised by him to Juan Bautista Cabral — Population of San Lorenzo Village — Once more on the Parana — ' El Diamante ' — Undulating Ground of Entre Rios Province — Approach to Parana City — Description of it by Captain Page — Geological Evidence of the Sea having been near Parana informer Times — The Bajada— The Church of San Miguel — The Plaza of Parana — Camara — Cathedral and Senate-house — Casa de Gobierno — View from its Azotea — Theatre of Parana — Census of Population in 1858 — The Colony of Villa de Urquiza — The Road to it across the Rivers Espinillo and Las Conchas — Foundation of this Colony — Its Extent — Causes of Failure— Component Parts of its Community — Mode of obtaining Land here — Authorities of the Place — The Forest of Montiel . 80

Chapter XII. Santa Fe Esperanza

From Parana to Santa Fe* — Position of the original City, according to Sir Woodbine Parish — First Notice of Santa F<3 by Dean Furies — Its preseut Position — The Plaza — La Matriz — Cabildo — Historic Associations connected therewith — Battering of its Front in 1840 by General Lavalle — Old Church of San Ignatius Loyola — The Jesuits' new College — Chapels of San Domingo and San Francisco — Solemn Antiquity in the Appearance of this City — Exports from Santa Ft? — Laguna of Guadaloupe — Bridge at the Paso de Coronda — To the Colony of Esperanza — Its Foundation — CONTENTS. XIII Present Population— Products in 1861-G2 — Dwellings, Mills, and Reaping Machines — Catholic Chapel and Protestant Church at Esperanza — The Schoolmaster, Don Juan Caspar Helbling, and his Plan of Teaching — Poetic Feeling — Recent Decree of the Provincial Government in reference to this Colony — Some Advantages of Villa de Urquiza over Esperanza — Canton of ' G de Julio ' — New Colony here — Example of this kind at San Xavier — Drive round the Outskirts of the Colony — Entering the Charo for my Salado Exploration— Extent of Santa Fe Province in this Di rection PAGE 97

Chapter XIII. Exploration Of The Salado

Salado Explorations of former Times — Voyage from Matara to Santa Fe* in 1775 — Commander Page's Expedition in 1855 — Summary of Observations — General Taboada's March across the Salado Valley to Santa Fe in 1850 ■ — Don Estevan Ram's first Expedition in 1857 — Mr. Coghlan's Ascent in 1858 — Reasons for the Author's proceeding up the Salado Valley in 1802- 1803 — Constituents of our Expedition — Starting from Santa Fe — First Night of Encampment — Estancia of Don Domingo Crespo — Picturesque grouping of Soldiers — Cows and Horses — Rumbling Bullock-carts — Why they are suffered to make Noise with the Wheels — View from our Encampment — Lighting Fires — Pitching Tents — Trumpet sounding to Bed — Mosquitoes . . . . . . . . . . .109

Chapter XIV. Life In The Chaco

Lassoing Horses for the Journey —Crossing the Paso de Miura, and through Esperanza Colony — First Day in the Chaco — Tapera of Dona Mariqnita — Contrasts of Christian Civilisation — Our Progress impeded by stopping to arrange Cinchas — Knife-grinder from Esperanza — Captain Page's Remarks —Arroyo San Antonio — Biscachera — Unpleasantness of sleeping in open Air — Distress from want of Water— Fires made at Night by the Indians — Mistaken Romance of Camp-life — Ant Colony — ' Saiiba,' or Leafearrying Ant — The Chanar — Quebracho — Algarroba — Lassoing Horses in the Chaco — Pursuing a Horse the natural business of the Gaucho — Monte Aguara — Confluence of Salado and Rio de las Vivoras — Baron du Graty's Military Fortifications— ' Vestigia retrorsum ' — Ruins of Indian 'Tolderias ' — How these Dwellings are made — Suggestions of Change in harnessing Horses — Valley of La Soledad ...... 114

Chapter XV. The

CHACO— CORDOVA. Christmas Eve in the Valley of La Soledad — Our Camping-ground — Division of Labour — Topographical Notice of the Arroyo de la Soledad — Baron von Humboldt and Mrs. Hemans on the 'Southern Cross' — Contrast between Christmas in the Chaco and Christmas in England— Ostriches CONTENTS. Vultures, and Hot Sun versus Turkeys, Oysters, and Snow — Our Plum Pudding — The Marseillaise — Flying for Water — Lightning in the East — Temporal — Ridiculous Termination of our Christmas Day — Sauce Town — Abipones and Moconisi Tribes -New Year in the Pampas — Retreat Forti fication — Canton of Zarate — Sentinel up a Tree — Barrack Square — Romero — Signs of Civilisation — The Canton of Quebracho — Concepcion del Tio — Monte Esquinita — Biscachas — Rio Segundo — Arroyito — Canton of Con cepcion — Change in the Weather—' J una ' Cactus — Arrope — Calzado a Tres page 125

Chapter XVI. Cordova

The Cana of Coghlan's Chart — Manantial — A Countrywoman's Ideas about Cotton — Lions and Tigers— Taj anises — Primitive Weaving Machine — The Railway Whistle Cicada — Sleeping in a South American "Wood — Over the Rio Primero — Prettj' View — Varieties of Female Occupation — Other Bed of the Rio Primero — Rio Viejo — Aspect of the Woods here — Produce of Wheat — Anita Pozo — First Glimpse of the Cordova Sierra — Mosquitoes of various Classes — Dickens' ' Summer Hum of Insects ' — Capilla de Encrucijada — Hume — Cross Roads — Bolivian Indians from Tunguz — Privilege indicated by wearing plaited Hair — Various Species of Algarrobo — General Uses of it — Aloja — Puesto de Seca — Porongos Lake — Rio Dulce or Santiago — Marchiquita — Mystolos — Estancia del Seco — General Accessories of Scenery — Tajamares — Our usual Proceedings in stopping for the Night at a House .......... 134

Chapter XVII. Cordova

A 'Ball ' at the Wake of an Angelito — Travellers' Privileges — Ima-rinino-s about Dancing-Room, Orchestra, and other Terpsichorean Accessories — Wild Deer, Ostriches, and Indian Skulls — Regulating Cinchas — Dirty Water — Dirtier Children — Tormenta Brewing — Lions and Tigers in the Monte — Darkness of Night — Dogs having a Private Ball of their own — Of the Manner in which the Angelito was laid out — Flying Apparatus of Cherubim — Tinsel and Spangles — Lending dead Babies to constitute a Ball— Various Kinds of Dances — 'El Gato ' — 'El Escondido ' — 'Los Aires,' with Song — ' El Triunfo ' — ' La Mariquita ' — Peculiarity of Refreshments — Particulars of Three Characters — The Old Indian Woman — The intoning Gaucho — The Venerable Funny Man — Burial of the Angelito — Comfort of ajformenta in returning from the Ball — Consolations even in the Storm — The Insect World silenced — Horse falling — Do"S barking — Endurance of the Senora — Capilla de Sitou— ' Piquilliu ' — AVhistling Frogs — Poverty and Population — The Poor Family at Puesto de Castro — Miserable Dwelling — Strong Affection and high Religious Feeling nevertheless— Patay Troop of Carretas from Rosaria to Tucuman —Average of Vovage— Organisation of Troop— Corrientes Cana—' Puesto del Guanaco ' — 'Las Salinas de la Aloma Blanca ' — Other Saline Lakes — Question of Intercommunication — 'Candelaria' — San Roque, Boundarv- Line of the Province of Santiago ....... CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XVIII. Santiago

Peculiarity in the Province of Santiago — The Quichua Language introduced by the Tucas from Peru — Direct Line to Tostado— Concert at San Roque — Pueblito del Carmen — Estancia of Senor Zaravia — Lawlessness of Military — Heralds of the Algarrobo — Laguna ' Las Torres ' — Rio Viejo — Wild . Pigs and Partridges — The Carddn — ' Chagiiar ' — La Soledad — Chapel of Sumampa — Statue on Rock in Centre of Chapel — Manchui — From Gramillaco, pretty Road— District densely populated— Caravajal — Fanciful Group of Santiaginian People on Horseback— The Woman's Terror at Sight of our Negro — Saladillo — Algarrobo Traffic — Turucupaurpa— Hire of Horses at the Post Houses — Arroyo Esquina — Arroyo Salavina — Sancudos — Rickety Church — Santa Lucia and Rafagos of Mosquitoes — Harp Manufacture — The Maritero — Yinagrilla — Tunita and new Variety of Shrubbery — Pichuna — Alamisca, small Leaves — Alvarillos — Maylui — The Bitter Algarrobo — Ceja — Gramilla — Picking Wool — To Matara — The Gramilla Cuckoo — Crosses marking the Graves of murdered People — The Church at Matara — Balls here — Ladies dancing without Shoes, Stockings, or Crinoline — Salado Navigation Company — Don Estevan Rams' Statement of the Rise and Fall of the Salado at Matara — Charratas — Pollito Ziizu — Ant Labour ......... page 150

Chapter XIX. Santiago

Fortin Bracho — Other Agricola-Military Fortifications on the Salado Banks — ■ General Don Antonino Taboada — Description of the Bracho — Barracks here — Site of the present Fort — General Taboada's Discipline — Rebels making Roads — Population speaking Quichua — Plan used with Vagrants — Abstinence from Spirits and Tobacco — License on Festival Days — Punishment for Excess — Military Post-boys — Pursuit of Indians — Weapons of War — Tobas, Macoris, and Guaicuruses Tribes — Thickness of an Indian's Skin — Eating ' Churasco ' — Plundering Alliance between the Indian Tribes — Marriage Ceremony of Indians — Mode of settling a Divorce Case — Republican Government of Indians — Worship of the Sun — Heroism of Bracho — Female Captives — Fortins below the Bracho — Laguna de la Cruz, and the Old Witch with Hair Two Yards long — Indian Urns found at Gramilla aud Navicha — Land near the Bracho to be given gratuitously to Emigrant Settlers . . . * .100

Chapter XX. Santiago

From Fort in Bracho Northward — G allegos of the Argentine Republic — Roails made by the Taboadas between the Rivers Salado and Dulce — Business at Guaype —Violent Hurricane tearing up Trees — Magnificent Condor — Estancia of San Jose — San Isidro — Mule breeding — Troop of Wild Horses — Provincial Adage about liaiu : In Enero poco, in Fevrero loco — Coco and Cabbage Palms — Extensive View at La Brandon — Quien sabe ?-■ School- CONTENTS. master at Los Sanchos — Las Tres Cruces— Politeness of a Lady — Depart ments of Santiago Province — Deputies to the Provincial Senate — Different Kinds of Bees— Where they make their Hives— Uniaj Tree, the Vegetable Barometer — Tigers in Santiago — Prescribed Reward for killing Tigers and Pumas— Mode of levying it — Limits of Santiago Province — The Pasaje (or Juramento) River — Origin of the latter Name — Sources of the Pasaje and Limit of its Course — From Latta to Oran — Chanar-Muyu and Wild Cotton— Mira Flores page 108

Chapter XXI. Tucuman

Into Tucuman— Derivation of the Name— Foundation of its Capital — Ancient Division of Spanish Possessions — Geographical Boundaries of Tucuman Province — Its Extent— No Connection with the Rio Salado — From Las Tres Cruces to Los Tres Posos — Garden of the Confederation — The Italy of the Argentine Provinces — Rich Pasture —Peak of La Timbo — Favorina — The Sali River — First View of Tucuman Churches — Position of this City — Population and Departments of the Province — Decay of Tucuman — Good Paving — Anniversary of Battle of Rio Colorado — The Matriz and Cabildo -View from Tower of the former — Camp of San Pablo — San Francisco Church and Convent with Garden — Other Chapels — Sierra Nevada — Floods and Incessant Rains — Government and Private Schools — Price of Land — Project for Immigration — Indigo — Table of Profit on Exports from Tucuman ....... 177

Chapter XXII. From Tucuman To Santiago

Trade of Tucuman — Statistics of Imports for 1801 — Produce of the Province in 1802 — First Cost of Productions — Visit to Sugar Manufactories — Sebil Redondo — Destruction of Cotton by Caterpillars — Desertion of Peon Labourers — Fawcett and Preston's Work — Commerce of Tuna Fruit — Its ' Dulce ' exchanged for Cattle — Posts from Tucuman to Salta — Earthquakes in these Places — Sugar-loaf Mountains not crossed from Dread of a Monster — Supposition of this Monster being an Incipient Earthquake — Diocese of Salta — Chu-Chu, or Intermittent Fever — Return from Tucuman — Crossing the River Sali — Adirette — Carnival at Los Tres Posos — • Queer-looking Character — Bagnal and Posuelas — Unpacking the Luggage — Assault of Binchucas and Mosquitoes — Their Connection with the Quichua Language — Digging out the Diligencia — Post of Satalillo — Crossing the River — Effects of Carnival at Garostiago — Posts thence to the Capital, Santiago 183

Chapter XXIII. Santiago

First Impressions of Santiago City — Attention of Governor Don Manuel Taboada and his Brother Gaspar — Old Church of San Francisco de Solano — The Saint's Cell — Cross used by him in preaching to the Indians — His Fiddle — Other Relics in Sacristy "of New Chapel — Orange Tree in CONTENTS. XVII the Patio — Miracles performed by San Francisco — First Capital of San tiago Province (' La Ciudad del Barco ') — Reasons attributed to the Saint for building the Chapel where now stand the Ruins - — Churches of La Merced and Santo Domingo — Burning of the Cathedral in 1012 — Popu lation of Santiago Province and Capital — Weather on setting out from this City — Privations at the different Pueblitas — Appeal to Tom Pinch — Geographical Error in making Roads from Tucuman to Santiago in a straight Line, as they appear in Charts — Crossing the Rio Dulce at the Paso de Guaychani — The Town of Loreto and its Poverty — Appearance of Beggars — Rio Pinto — Dry Bed of Rio Dulce — Posts passed from this to Atamisca — ' Lluvia a Cantaros ' . . . . . . page 190

Chapter XXIV. Santiago Again

Rain at Atamisqui — Fears of Second Deluge being at Hand — Yakuchili Lake — Berdolaga Flowers — Pleasure for Pigs or Young Ducks — Meeting the Diligencia from Cordova — Crossing the Rio Viejo — Again at Salavina — The jolly Cura— Scene Outside the Chapel — Parochial Departments of Santiago — Healthy Population of Salavina — Troop of Mules — Questions about Fighting in the Upper Provinces — Colonels Bicha and Generals Binchuca — Crossing the Rio Dulce on a Chata — Turning to the Cordova Road — Quien sabe? again — Santiago Sierras — New Species of Algarroba — Cheap Peaches — Constructing Carrretas — Enter Cordova Province — Territorial Formation of Sierras— Rio Seco — Rio de lasTortejas — ' Intiguasi,' or House of the Sun — Mountains of Guyakan — Hospitality at San Jose* — Pretty View from the Sierra of Simbolar — Pueblito of Rosario — Dance — Looking out for Cordova City — Level Road — Pau de Azucar Mountain 195

Chapter XXV. Cordova

Agreeable Sensations on entering Cordova — Tortuosity of Road — Geographical Position of this City — Period of its Foundation — Number of Churches — Cabildo — Cathedral — Church of San Domingo — Miraculous Statues — College of San Domingo — Chapel of the Jesuits — University — Time of its Erection — First styled University of San Carlos — Its old Library — College of Monserrat — Its Foundation — Change of Locale — Code of Education — Ancient Position of the Jesuits here — Their first Persecutor — Number of Slaves and Estancias which they owned — Position of Jesuits' College — View from Azotea of Monserrat — Chapel of Santa Catalina — Convent of St. Teresa — Other Chapels in this ' City of Churches ' — Chief industrial Feature of Cordova — Steam Mill of Senor Don Victor Roque — Cost of this Building — Its Manufacture and Export for the last Year — ■ Absence of Fine Arts in Cordova — Municipal Music — Visit to the Alameda — Another Work of the Jesuits — Elegance of private Houses . . 204

Chapter XXVI. Cordova

— ROSARIO. Sir Woodbine Parish's Statistics of Population in Cordova in 1822 and 1823 — Captain Page's Account of the same in 1855 — Census of 1858 — Departments of the Province — Number of Provincial Deputies — Other CONTENTS. XVIII Industrial Features of Cordova— Mines at Parais and Pocho— Manufacture of Cloth in Old Times— Low Price of Wool— Off for Rosario— Change of "Weather as of Locomotive — Cordillera Range — Spinous Acacia — Rios Quarto and Segundo — Desgraciado — Battle-Field of Laguna Larga — l'assing the Rio Tercero — Villa Nueva — Mendoza Road — Source and Course of Rio Tercero — Its Non-Navigability — South American Tea — San Geronimo, alias Fraile Muerte — No undulating Ground here — Cactus Fortification at the Post of Saladillo — Stretches of Pampas Scenery — Murderof Spanish Officers near Sobaton — C-L-A-M-O-R— Village of Cruz Alta— Other Posts — ' Coming Home ' — What the Wild Fox, Gama, and Owl think about it — Spires of Rosario Church — Arrival at Rosario page 212